THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND, SUNDAY ' EIORNING, . MARCH . 22. ; 1903 .
A. Hi if
SS
71
THERn ! bo more attfaetivo ,
gift, for- householder than a
handsome centerpiece, and the '
design shown today U : pot
feot in drawing, grace of lint and
originality of aordsr. It U tho bean- :
tlful custom of lb Germans to glvo
Easter presents, Just as, wa - glvo
Christmas prostata, ad today'a da
Ign ta tdaai .tor tho purpose. ,
The centerpiece In question la work
ad lor tha long-and-ahort stitch, fag
oting ' and buttonholing, tha flrat In ;
tha lilies, tha aacond'la tho stems,
unless tha ootid atltch U preferred,
and tho third on tho border. Tho
petals of tho flower epuld only bo
dona In tho stlteU suggested or Franch
knots, for thsy glvo tho Impression '
of depth toward tho canter, but tho
atema and tha outalde line of eaoh
blossom and tho buda would bo per
fection done In tho aolld atltch,
In-esse of tho conterpUeo being too
email thO outalde odgo might bo out
even and wide cluny lace aewod oa aa
a fin I h. In thla way tho centerpiece
could bo made aa large M ono could
dealro, depending oa tho width of tho
lace. In sewing tha latter on, how
ever, U ahould flrat bo basted, to It
may bo absolutely certain not to bind
in any way.; otherwise the affect will
be spoiled. '
In making up ouch a rarely beauti
ful design It would bo the greatest
pity to Introduce any color Into tho
work. Such a virgin subject ahould
bo treated ta tho deadeat Of ell floaa
or mercerised cotton, and tho fonn
datloa ahould bo only - pure wblto
linen. The lace may bo ecru, If e
alred. When the embroidered edg la pre
ferred tbo atiiched ahould bo mltared
at tho corner, ao that they will not
, make too aqoare aa affect; and aorae
tlmag lace aewed tmiii tbo la
aide line, leaving tha aquareo to over
lap when they will, makea most
attraotlva flnlah to tbo centerpiece.
. Solid Trench knots might bo most
attractive way to embroider tho poU
ale of the lilies, particularly If tho
atema are embroidered la tho fagot
stitch or cross stitch, as ahowa la
the illustration. Tho knots would
give tho flower a raised appearance,
and tbey alwaya aid In maklbg work
look lacy and attractive.
In using allk for the embroidery a
heavy white twisted floss Is best, but
when colors are chosen, of course tho
flowers must be white, but tho pls
tHi and atamans should bo' yellow.
To be properly arranged tho Inter
twining atema and the buda ahould
be In light green, while the border,
mar be flnlaiied la any shade that
suits tbo taste of tbo embroiderer.
AN ECONOMICAL LAYETTE
THEftS are many economical waya
of making a layette, or infant
trouasean, but tho dreases found
to bo moat satisfactory are thoao made
wttA a shirred yoke. These are cut
something on tho order of a woman's
chemise and the neck Is about the aamo
also. Tho Sleeves arc cut so that tho top
flta lato tho neck Una. Then a yoke
about three inchea deep Is cut out In,
paper and fastened to both aides of tho
back and tho middle of tho front and
the dreaa la shirred to fit When finished
tha shirring la atitched by machine,
through paper and all to keep tho gath
ering threads from breaking, and If tho
machine stitching Is found, unsightly,
feather stitching may cover tho line.
It all sounds like a great deal of work,
but a baby's yoke la very email, and It
takes hot nearly so much time as ono
would expect.
Tho advantage of tho ahlrred yokes Is
that, after tho baby haa grown, the
etltcbing may bo taken out and the yoke
mado larger. This need not bo for some
time, particularly If the sleeves are cut
about ono Inch too long. The extra ma
terial may be taken up In three email
tucks and they may be let out when
necessary.
Fine coata are best made In small box
pleats over the ahoulder. back and front,
for when tha time cornea every other
one may bo lot out and tho coat made
many sises larger. For tha length of
the sleeves, sometimes a little extra ma
terial la left over and gathered at tho
top, ao the aleeve haa only to be ripped
out to ba made larger. Other women
prefer the tuck above the cuff, and thla
la after the most convenient method.
To make the coat larger one haa only
to rip the ahoulder seams and tucka and
the work la dona.
Many mothera are now making axil tho
babies dresses short, unless born In
midwinter, for there is alwaya the risk
of cold when changing the length, while
If they alwaya wear fairly abort dresses
they get used to It But It seems a pity
to do away with the long Infant dreaaea,
and perhaps It la better to keep to the
old way.
For tho first few months white petti
coats are a luxury, not a necessity, and
It la a good plan to wait till the dresses
aro shortened and then make ono waist
for both white and flannel skirt Tho
waist Is easily mado when out double,
and after the aide seams are sewn tho
two thicknesses aro stitched all round,
leaving only tho waist line. When fin
ished tho tiny garment can bo turned
right aids out and no bindings and hems
will be necessary, and the double mus
lin makea a satisfactory waist, for It la
not Quito so thick aa flannel and la yet
not too thin.
Tha first flannel skirts must be mado
on their" own flannel waists and thO
edges bound with galon. When tho sec
ond dresses aro put on the long skirts
may bo cut In half to make two short
skirts. For this resson It is well to cat-
Embroidered Pajamas
NEW pajamas for women aro mado
collarless and with fathered
sleeves, while white allk frogs
fasten them down tho front which Is
embroidered In a hugs but graceful de
sign. On tho Whole, pajamas aro but
the natural things for women to wear,
for they aro both comfortable and
economical, and at the aamo time easy
to make. It takes lees material to make
a very good-looking pair of pajamas
than It doss to make a really pretty
nightgown, and a little work will
show on tho former to much better ad
vantage than a great deal of embroidery
on tho latter.
Boms white linen pajamas aro shown
embroidered in poppy design down the
front and around the cuffs, only tho
popples Instead of being done in red allk
are worked out in white mercerized cot
ton. A heavy padding under the flow
ers gives them a moat fascinating ap
pearance, and makea the garment look
Oriental in every line.
Another attractive design for thla pur
pose ia a large chrysanthemum design,
worked in yellow mercerised cotton,
with paleat green for sterna- It Is really
a very good combination, and no woman
yet who has ever tried wearing pajamas
has been willing to go back to tbe old
fashioned nightdress.
oulata bow long tho short skirts should
bo when msklng tho long ones, always
arranging that tho hem In tho lower
half of tho latter need not bo ripped
and that tho gfthera may stay In tbo
upper half, Thla loaves only ono hem
ming and one gathering to bo done for
two petticoats.
Aa infant scannot wear tho first site
clothes for mors than six months at tho
outside, and It Is therefore economy to
makO them so that they will last at
leaat a year, particularly when It la ao
eaay.
To Sew Hooks on Dresses
IK 8EWINO en hooka, whether used
In connection with eyes or peete,
always spread the hooks, all
sites, before aewlng on; It not only
makes the strain come on different
parts of the material, but it prevents
them from pushing forward and
showing at the edges of collars, plack
ets and such things.
When sewing them on a boned lin
ing the bone can be slipped between
the front curves and back of the
book, after they have all been sewn
on, making it very taut, thus aavlng
the labor of fastening the bono In tho
usual way. It must, of course, bo
fastened at either end after It Is In
serted, otherwise it will come entire
ly off during the process of hooking
the dress.
Hand-Embroidered Bibs
OF COURSE, we want tho dainti
est and the best for our precious
babies, and are always ready
with willing hands to mako for
them tho prettiest according to
our . individual Ideas of beauty, but
when It comes to that useful but
not poetlo article of apparel, tho
bib. It is best to let common sense take
the lead. However, dainty and at the
same time serviceable bibs can be made
by first making one of heavy padding,
bound by tape and thick enough to keep
dry the warm flannels and white dress
beneath them. To hide this useful but
unornamental necessity, make a cover
of handkerchief linen, the edgea scal
loped wth mercerised cotton and a sim
ple design embroidered In the center.
Nothing could be In better taste than
baby's own monogram, and it haa the
added advantage of being easily done.
Real Lace, Ancient and Modern
N4
?! ' :
i
...
V
Design Outlined Iri Thread
WHEN the lacemakeri and nuns
of Italy had elaborated ve-'
netlan polot in almost every
conceivable way, rose point had been
Invented, with ita many no cords or
"brides" and its snow foundations.
As time went on -the work on this
became .more and more minute, until
the laceworkers began to make a fine
net, all with the point of the needle,
as a foundation for the many beau
tiful designs of the day. In thla the
cordonet, or outlining cord, was omit
ted, and each tiny hexagonal mesh
was made by four to eight stitches on
a aide, arranged in loops and twists.
This ground was worked around the
design, or ''to lie," and it was called
the reeeau. Grounded Venetian point
was the most beautiful lace that had
ever been made at that time about
the 'sixteenth century and its manu
facture continued in Venice until the
I Erench Hevolution, when commerce
Lffvas interrupted and all lacemaklng
' Btnnnsd. excentlns' in Rurano.
This little Island is one of the Ve
netian group, but it is quite detached
from the restof the olty, and here a
few peasants pacidly worked on fairy
fabrics while all Europe .was involved
Jn the great civil war.
' The lace made In Buraoo was not,
however, of the best quality; the
reseau was hot the finest end the
thread was rather Inferior, but the
lactmakers plied their trade, although
in a desultory way, and tha Venetians
quite lost the art and turned their
talents to Other things.
But in tho winter of 1878 tho lagoons "
of Burano froze over for the first
time In the memory of man. and the
natives, who earned their living bv
fishing, were suddenly thrown out of
work and dire poverty stared them
In the face. Their predicament came
to the notice of the government, and
Queen Margherita, wife of Humbert,
decided to revive lacemaklng so the
peasants of northern Italy would have
some source of revenue not dependent
upon the weather.
By that time there Vas but one
woman left in Burano Who knew the
art, and she, CencJa Scarpariola, was
so old that although she could make
lace, she could not impart her knowl
edge; but the good queen found some
clever young girls, who watched the
old woman at her work, and between
them they found how it was done.
Thus lacemaklng was revived in Italy.
Grounded Venetian point, or "point
plat a reseau," is made in four stages,
first, the design Is drawn and pricked
In the parchment, and the outlining
threads are sewed through parchment
and linen, as in "gros point de venise,"
but In the grounded point the threads
are fine, for the work is without
cordonet In the next stage the fine
mesh is worked in around the design,
then the design is done, and. laatly.
the filling in of the design with a
fairy mesh called "ajours."
At present one may visit the lace
shops In Venice and see the wonderful
material being made by little girls of
8 and 10, for a laceihaker usually
plies her trade between the ages of
8 and 18 only.. After that her eyea
aro not so good and her fingers not so
pliable, ..
Offly The Finishing Touch e6 To
Be Added
Nevv N
A SOFA cushion cover must have Vl A )
been a almple thing originally. f J J J J
but Its evolution has been rapid JsO,! 2 -y
and complicated. The average man, Tx. y """"" 1
when he gases with dismay at the V V?A. - 1
objets d'art pilsd la careful confusion
upon his once shabbily comfortable I vSr
lounge of divan, Is not spt to appro- 1 I I I I
elate thai present perfection, but 1 I i 1 5 I I
moot women do. 1 1 1 I VQ I I
Lo dernier cri In eushlon covers seems I 1 ' c4 I I
to be those embroidered m ribbon work i A Pe&tQned bv Ella Svdnev anrf I I
and appllqued with velvet bands or curl- I I "e'9n(' pr u"f oyane ana I I
ous designs outlined In heavy gilt I IS. Adapted TO Embroidery b j f
thread, giving tho empire touch that . I 1 t c I y I I
seems to bo on everything these dsys. I 1 S J Cmily Z immttlTI3fi I J
Another pillow top was mado of five I Tli l(A I f
squares Of filet lace surrounded by me- ill I InlmJll II
dallions of cluny and the intervening til I f II Jl'l 11 li
spaces filled with white linen worked In J lr7 if fflli l I 11
7
i it.
J
Call
TheFimsheHLdce
Point de Ventse a Re&Btt
. 1 'A" '
Embroidered Frock at Small Cost :
model It Is only necessary to m
broiderv the front panel leaving the
feat of the dresa plain, and the busiest -girl
In the world could surely find
time to do this much work Without
neglecting her duties at homo w
abroad. , i
ONE of the most popular mate
rials for summer is dotted
Swiss, and this year It la
Shown in all sorts of designs and
colors. Sprays of rosebuds, lilacs,
forget-me-nots, shaded dots, em
broidered rings, anything serves to
make still more beautiful this dur
able and pretty fabric. But all of
these new ideas are rather expensive,
too mucb so, indeed, tor the average
pocketbook. while the old-fashioned
plain white dotted swiss is well with"
In the reach of most women.
A most attractive frock can be mado
by selecting a swiss where dots aro '
rather widely scattered and basting
around each dot a circle of colored
thread, dark blue, light blue or pink.
Thus a really hand-embroldered
v Coiffure Decorations t
TTHE fashion of decorating the hair
I seems to have returned to popu
, larity, and (he most attractive
butterfly may be made at homo of
'ahlrred chiffon on a wire frame and
wings edged with spangles of peacock
green. ' i - ,
A white butterfly may be made of
tulle and edged all round with Imi
tation pearls or white paillettes. It
dress may be had at no cost at all is a clever Idea when using any light
and the little embroidery may bo done material to first wrap the wire witfr
Ifi heavy silk floss If desired, giving '
kae dress the appearance Of mousse
line de sole. As for a design for a
dress of ' this kind, what ould bo
prettier ' than ono of tho semt-prla- '
cess variety. With a long panel down
the front from neck to hens and tho
sMes tackedt In . making - up this
white radium silk or buck satin, if
. black material Is to bo used, il .ny
wreaths, too, aro made of sin fiowon.
or, more properly, ribbon flownrs, wt i
also hare their foundation a v - .
frame. A rose Is cleverly mado of f t
satin ribbon twisted around t I ).. i
In the middle by a litil roiclii br -;-low
baby nbbofc.
if