Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 16, 1908)
.. . v . THE , OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTL AND, SUNDAV - MORNING FEBRUARY 18, 1008. X, ! 1? is i rr l mi i ii i i ii . is r i liii i ur irj ti r i nil v- f w -vx i 11 i i At u i Quite the Most Pronounced Novelty of the 1908 Season in the Way of Snirt Waists is tke Waist Made of Washakie ECKDKSEIFW: Tulle Sleeves and Waists Cut m One Feature of Elaborate Blouses i s a NO matter how hard fashion ren ora mar frown upon the shirt waist and assure you that "no r really wall ifowned woman will be ruilty of wearing auch a ple '. belan article of apparel." yet the aver ; -woman smiles aweetly and goes An making addltlona to her crisp stock of walata of linen and lawn. For she knows Just aa you and I know, that this year, aa In other years, every ' woman will wear shirtwaists. The separate waist lingerie, tailored, or just plain shirt has too Arm a hold upon the feral nine American public to ' be easily given up. And this year has proved no exception to the rule. True, the delicate white waist of lawn tttid .lace has been somewhat shoved Into the background thla winter, In favor of the waist of dyed lace or silk or net match " - In th skirt lri color, but with the ap- proacb of warm weather the lingerie waist will come into its own again. Trunks packed for winter aojourna In summer climes show this. . . . Many women have been contra tula t- ing themselves on the excellent bar gains of lace and embroidery they wejre able to pick up in the shops during the January sales. Now comes the ques . tion of how to use them to best ad vantage in making up their summer outfit of One white waists. Surely this year the problem Is not a hard one to answer. For on tailored waists for morning wear no embroidery ; or lace whatever is to be permlssable , and on the dainty waist of the lingerie variety you cannot use too much lace and embroidery or in too many com binations. -Cluny, flh-t, Irish and the old reliable "VaJ." all are worked Into endless designs and combinations. , Quite the most pronounced novelty Of the 1908 season In the way of shlrt tulieW th walat made f washable , Washable tulle, it might be mentioned J F Hew p I plP jfjl AflSa,st ot llUrn n6luny Lace Wlth p,,s8e Rnf jpjf j I r "-b t " J J 1 t-CX" B ilk n Insertion Are Happily Combined In $Ffy $TiM( "''xEE&lmV this Waist, Which Illustrates the New Sleeve. 2XXX X A&kSk.q X. ( J ; jL E ', ' '. c Tailored Waist With Effectively Placed Buttons ; TrF T H YfZsJ " YtrlZitf' I a D One of the Reason's Novelties a Waist of fc E Embroidered Crepe de Chine and All-Over Lace, ZtV. C;::::: i'i tjO- Trimmed With Irish Crochet Lace Buttons. J"1-CSyw This Season s Linen Skirt Waists Will Be Devoid of Embroidery Waists Are More Lace Inset and ! Embroidered I T1 T7 x nan juver to the uninitiated. Is a'very fine net of silk or cotton, winch has the recom mendation of laundering excellently and looking always fresh nd dalntv. Whiln we have been surfeited with waints of net. from really exquisite nets of ex pensive filet which rich Ince incrusta tions to the abomination of the ready made waist of coarse mesh and coarser trimming, this Is (tie first attempt of a net waist to enter Hie field of the tailor-made. You may see how tailor-made It Is by glancing Ht a sketch of It In the Illus tration lettered D. It only breaks out Into frivolity in the little ruffle down the front. It is lined to yoke depth both back and front, but the sleeves are unllned, which will be a recom mendation during the hot weather months. The tailor-made waists of linen arc blossoming forth in a profusion of plaits of all widths and depths. Of ( oiirsp. even In the tailored waists hand inn tucks and plaits are much to be preferred, but machine stitching Is more excusable dn linens than on the lighter materials, which ar.e combined with laces and embroideries. Sleeves on these tailored waists are agitln long and end In the masculine shirt cuff or in a turned back cuff nhlch Is. however, ptlfflv starched and fastened with link cuff buttons. Very occasionally a bit of French embroidery Is seen on the cuffs, the box plaits down the front and the stiff collars of these waists. E Embroidered Crepe de Chine and All-Over Lace, Trimmed With Irish Crochet Lace Buttons. Rut If the severity of the waist for bove strictly morning wear Is unbroken the "'Ink It waists for more festive occasions amply make up for it in their elaboration and frivolity. The moat fragile of laces are com bined vlth heavy embroideries. Often "to gild the Illy" the lace Itself is em broidered and inset. All the materials of other years ate again employed as groundwork batiste, mulls, handker- eolors of blue and pink and lavender aa ' ng I ng he J colored collars are destined for wear with all-white tailored waists. As for the jabots and little lacey bows I, they quite beggar description. They ' fe most . charming and feminine seres- soilcs. and the shops are overflowing with legions of them of every charming design and material. Exquisite hand embroidery and real lace enter Into the composition of some. Others are mar- 1 vels of fine hemstitching and needle- I work. Again used entirely. The jabots are becomlr longer and fluffier, sometimes belr so long that the end tucks under the oeu nucKle. While there is a certainty that these will very early In the season become unhappilv common, still they are too prettv and becoming a fashion to be l nastily discarded Ruffles of finely plaited Ince-edged lawn of graduated widths appearang from under one edge ; or ine central box plait are somewhat newer than the ruffles turning each way. ) Now that many waists button In rroni ann tne central box plait is so plainly In evidence, there Is a sudden. revival or interest in leweled studs with which to fasten them. Very good sets may be found, consisting of four I studs, cuff buttons and a jewel-set aieiv pin wun wnicn to rasten the lin en collar. Little Irish crochet buttons and but tons of fine white braid are used on I rine wnite waists. Irish crochet bead- ; ing is Inset along seam lines with good effect. Braiding with verv fine white j cotton braid on linen waists, combined ; with lace Insertions, is a fad of tin season. It gives good results for the amount or work expended. Colored ties and belts to match will I be worn. A little bow of Inch-wlda satin ribbon heading a Jabot, an end of I ribbon running down the center of th Jabot to the waistline is a hint of color j from Paris. Ruchtng Is worn at the top or the extremely high-boned collars attached to most lingerie waists. The I edges of the sleeves are also finished wun tne rucning. the cniur linens and lawns, they are a here. But so lace Inset and tucked an embroidered are they that very little of the material Itself is seen. The sleeve cut In one with the body of the waist and the exact similarity of trimming on tho front and back of waists are two Important features. No longer is all the ornamentation lavished on the front of a waist, the back having to be content with a few meager tucks. As to sleeves an armhole is appar ently something to be much ashamed of Just now. For never In the trimmed waists are we allowed to see to what a sleeve is attached. The armhole Is carefully hidden In some form of the sleeve called kimono. Sometimes it Is the sling sleeve of last summer, some times a low-hanging little rape cut In one with the rest of the waist, but al ways a disguise is provided for the top of the sleeve. 'And as to length why, almost any length you fancy, with perhaps the seven-eight length In the lead. That is the sleeve ending a couple of Inches T wrist bone. I can't sav I Is a bceomlnir tlac At whinli 10 Dung tno sleeve to a conclusion, but what will you? We must all bow to Dame Fashion's decree. The yokes of waists seem to be of all shapes round, pointed and square. On a good many Imported models I notice that yokes of fine, very fine tucking are enclosed In bands of lace insertion And, Indeed, tucking- forms much of the trimming or laoorate waists. Alter- H natlng bands of horizontal tucking and d wide Jace insertion run up and down inn whisis ana around the sleeves following the direction of the wide sleeve where It falls awav from the rest of the waist at the turn of the shoulder. In the sketch marked "A," up and down tucking Is combined with heavy cluny lace In an effective design Below the high-boned "choker" collar Is tho pllsse ruffled turned-down collar which Is seen on some exclusive Imported models. The long ends of the tie, which Is of pale pink satin, are decorated with some cluny lace dangles. This Is also original In that It has the bow of pllsse muslin and one of satin While I hear from Paris that the day of the stiff linen collar Is fast drawing to a close, each day sees more beguiling collars shown in New York shops collars quite glorified out of re semblance to the stiff things In which men Inclose their throats They are embroidered and Inset with lace motifs of delicately tinted linens In WHY A WOMAN'S WORK IS NEVER DONE 'WOMAN HAS HER SPHERE xlome the Place for H Ler By Mrs. John A. Los-an. vX are there not the same help ful, sympathetic women today as there were a -decade ago? Is the instinct of wnmon ",',' n longer as the magnet hold- .' ing her to the home to children, to ', her husband? ' Borne who have studied the conse ; nuencea ot the amalgamation of native and foreign races do not want for an answer. i , Cltisens from foreign countries ,. pot brought with AbT thl. free . lnd the same unity of purnoi. . . tweeh husband and wife that ..i.f" - In almost all countries 1 xUt" ' i Ka wt pr?ted l? 'whether this is true or not, but It seems to be thl . conoensus of opinion of those w-hn , hava Investigated the matter that it ii and that the women of today are not . Interested tir the success of their hus bands; and the .male members of their .families.-.).';.: . . , . One frequently hears that when hus bands and fathers are over-lnduient , au $haic j1ts o4 - dauxfctaraTths women become selfish and unreason- ?hie JVfd ,are. n0t dl8Pai to share in the efforts to accumulate wealth or pracuce economies and self-denial ercIse,r80nS f llmUed means Bho" This certainly cannot be said of all our women, as we have many illua- lnatth!.' lVhe ?cnlevements ow men e- interest ot their husbands' fathers' and brothers' success ir?,lherft '? an?ther Phase of the ques tion, it has been claimed that Amer ican women sometimes do too much for their husbands and occupy lndus- Hntt,,.iph08U,on" Whlcn they should re linquish on account of the duties that rat th.ere 18 aomething radically wrong there Is no disputing rtta,caijy nnli.ur W0Pen would cease to occudv EnUons whlch take them from thei trom their hJmea " them awa "txalr.,?"""0, th"r do much harm inlv'tabW yr7ieg,eCted, and not . nrnri. A1?1 follows. It is aulf SpjX'S women By a "Woman of Experience rilh, reason 1 am always tired," a friend of mine said recently in my hearing, "Is that I am always trying to put 15 min utes' work into 10 minutes' time. I undertake something that I could not finish In the space I have allowed for it If 1 kept on a full run 11 the tjme. Then when some accident interferes all my calculations are thrown out and everything goes wrong." I am myself constantly fighting with the temptation to undertake more than I can accomplish In a given time. In a way, I enjoy working under the spur. 1 hat is, if I have a long, quiet morning ahead of me, with just as much as I can put into it if I work all the while, and with the ideal set before me of finish ing a certain amount at a given-time, there Is excitement and enjoyment about It. But I don't like to see three hours' work ahead of me? and only two Ihours and half in which to do It. Nor de I like to plan for fitting in everything to the time I have at command, and then have something or someone come in and take the 10 minutes I didn't have to spare. I felt this especially the other day w-lien i went shopping. I don't Ilka shopping at all; at least, not shopping as It Is generally understood. If I know what I want, and where to find it and have the money for it. I don't mind going to the place where it is sold and ordering it and paying for it. Ifut on this special occasion the thing I thought 1 could find at a certain place was not there, and I had to seek further. Then when I found it there were two cus tomers ahead of me, and I had to wait my turn, gaining an appreciation, by the way, of the circumstances that make women push in ahead of others when they are in a hurry. Bv the time I had what I wanted It was too late to do the other things I had planned for, and since I had not allowed any time for the hindrances I might have ex pected. I was forced to go home with my errands undone. That is the trouble with so many of us-. We try to put too much into a given time, and then " when interrup tions arrive they eat up our leisure and leave us with our necessary work un finished. It would be much better if wo could so plan our work from the be- vlnnlnr that wa m,M HcaM. n.i positively be done and what we could possibly leave undone. Oh, yes; I have head that before, and when I have said: "But suppose that you were ill and couldn't do the things?" the answer comes: "Oh, but that is different." Well, I daresay it is. When illness puts on the brakes and says "stop!" there Is an allowance made for us that we could not ask or expect when we are Til ,?ut yet' )f we m go over our dally lives calmly and dispassion ately, don't you think wa can find something that couldn't be crowded out without doing any great harm to any one, and whose omission would be of benefit to the person who left it un- Then there are the young women S-.!m,K"OTftA?ln t0.P"t a" m- w a iuttL mene will hold T recollect all about it. I was that sort of young woman myself once. As a result, they are not willing that mT-nf -f lnt,er!8t sha11 be cr?wSeJ out. and so needed rest and reDoso ar the things that go to the wall n5 then the girl fln!s out that patnco and the power of endurance and of Bym! pathy are. among the things that Vere crowded out, and that she and others must suffer for the lack of them It makes no difference what may be the age of the girl whether she be out in th! ?Tld, Ukl?, Care of herself or in the schoM getting ready for her life's rr0i5n.efe7r. h ,s' In 99 cases ou? at 100 she is doing too much and crowd ing out some of the things that are f'J!0reTthan other "enlevements N.1t. tnat 'mean to belittle, this view of things. Work is about the bluest and finest thing i the world? and that lH Veasc:n am ur'ng Vou glrrs to do less, in order that you may do better that which you do accomplish j FRIETCHIE S GRAVE MARKED which they should have at all times In their home and their loved ones. Men, as a rule, are naturally selfish and expect women to be attentive to their household duties, even if they are wageearning women. Man overlooks altogether the fact that they are worn out by the dally grind of filling any position wageearners occupy, as well as the fact that the addition to their Incomes through the woman's wagos roust be at the expense of their do mestic bliss. The fact that wives especially are wageearners also begets a feeling on the part of husbands of freedom from responsibility. Husbands and wives mf.apai ,n their aim and ambitions of life, when, as a matter of fact tha xfeal maonslbiHtg of providing nrsa- erly for their wives and children should rest absolutely upon the husbands and fathers. It would be better if the women of the nation would insist upon them selves and their families being sup ported by their husbands and fathers, which would allow them to turn their attention exclusively to the discharge of their duties In their homes. Any woman who fulfills the place as wife and mother as it should be filled has little time to devote to other oc cupations, however agreeable and prof itable they may be. This applies par ticularly to the younger women, whose children are In their infancy and re quire th constant attention of their mothers. In addition the waste that follow personal attention to domestic affairs fceeds most liberal compensaflo capacit,y.P d 'r thelr ""vices In an? JiJ"nf!nA a.1 ,nat,urany weaker physi cally and it is impossible for them thPfrrnWO masters-their home, a their employers, without speedy de struction to their health and break ing down of their nervous oriraniia. tions; the inevitable result ofbeing over-taxed and over-worked. intlulry hould be mads as to whether or not the men of theDres ent time are willing for their -wives i undergo the drudgery and labor of adding to their Jncomei to lighten their burdens, albeit they mar havo to (Merlfjo. thole douostiQ hLuUooa From the New York Sun. The rest of the United States might unite in celebrating the Whlttler cen tenary if It wanted to, but one town to which the Quaker poet gave fame couldn't be persuaded to Join. rreuencK, Maryland, is divided still as to whether the lady with "the snow white hair" reallv did shake the Stars and Stripes out the window of the little house on Patrick street, and it has never been very grateful to Whlttler for the fame it got out of the poem. But Barbara Frietchie did live there at any rate. What is very much more to the ends of one youngster with a strong com mercial Instinct, the lady is burled there and without a headstone of any kind. Moreover, there are enough tourists whose nerves once tingled with delight as they chanted the lines, "Who touches a hair of yon gray head," etc., to pro vide a pretty steady stream of visitors to the high-walled cemetery. Tho key, a monstrous affair on a foot long stick, is kept at the sexton's house. old lock of the high gray waif it seems as If, in keeping with all the dignified Old town, the opening gates ought to reveal at least something worth while The place more often sports a fair hay crop, in which one prowls about hunt Ins; for the crart of the supposed hero-ina "Wahnter see Barbara Frletchie's grave?" I he accent of the very small-faced bespectacled boy barely visible over the top of the wall his ladder must be all but to short for him is indescribable with its trace of the south and Us veiled hint of business. "Yes. Do you know where it is?" Kvldentlv n 0 wna nnlv woltfnff fAP a chance to be willing, and with trousers raaniiAfl V. .. ...... . . - ..aucu uj jubi one suspender ne urops over the wall and heads like a bee for the grave. Evidently, too, he knew just what questions every one asked, for he at once pointed out the fields across which stonewall 11 went- ,t fame to the brook beside which th .rneicnio cottage stood. J "Reallv. now vnu hnltAH Tin taV,- . u 1 inui v uiu umi .' ..The by beKKed the question with Don t you want a pebble to keep?' cqaxingly pointing- to the top of ths grave, neatly heaped with white stones, and when the visitors rather hesitated urged, "Most fos'r right fond o' peb bles. Uncie'n I put more'n two bushels cm that ere grave this sumjnsr beside them ere now." And then nudglngly: 1 j otubi everyooay gr me a dime. I'm i ii.-. muiiiijimniiy, as I crave ."I'm e-nln tA - ..l-T" --( X ' tX X X V 1
