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THE , OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTL AND, SUNDAV - MORNING FEBRUARY 18, 1008.
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is i rr l mi i ii i i ii . is r i liii i ur irj ti r i nil v- f w -vx i 11 i i At u i
Quite the Most Pronounced
Novelty of the 1908
Season in the Way of
Snirt Waists is tke Waist
Made of Washakie
ECKDKSEIFW:
Tulle
Sleeves and Waists
Cut m One
Feature
of Elaborate
Blouses
i
s a
NO matter how hard fashion ren
ora mar frown upon the shirt
waist and assure you that "no
r really wall ifowned woman will
be ruilty of wearing auch a ple
'. belan article of apparel." yet the aver
; -woman smiles aweetly and goes
An making addltlona to her crisp stock
of walata of linen and lawn. For she
knows Just aa you and I know, that
this year, aa In other years, every
' woman will wear shirtwaists.
The separate waist lingerie, tailored,
or just plain shirt has too Arm a hold
upon the feral nine American public to
' be easily given up. And this year has
proved no exception to the rule. True,
the delicate white waist of lawn tttid
.lace has been somewhat shoved Into the
background thla winter, In favor of the
waist of dyed lace or silk or net match
" - In th skirt lri color, but with the ap-
proacb of warm weather the lingerie
waist will come into its own again.
Trunks packed for winter aojourna In
summer climes show this.
. . . Many women have been contra tula t-
ing themselves on the excellent bar
gains of lace and embroidery they wejre
able to pick up in the shops during the
January sales. Now comes the ques
. tion of how to use them to best ad
vantage in making up their summer
outfit of One white waists.
Surely this year the problem Is not
a hard one to answer. For on tailored
waists for morning wear no embroidery
; or lace whatever is to be permlssable ,
and on the dainty waist of the lingerie
variety you cannot use too much lace
and embroidery or in too many com
binations. -Cluny, flh-t, Irish and the
old reliable "VaJ." all are worked Into
endless designs and combinations.
, Quite the most pronounced novelty
Of the 1908 season In the way of shlrt
tulieW th walat made f washable
, Washable tulle, it might be mentioned
J F
Hew p
I plP jfjl AflSa,st ot llUrn n6luny Lace Wlth p,,s8e Rnf jpjf j
I r "-b t " J J 1 t-CX" B ilk n Insertion Are Happily Combined In $Ffy $TiM( "''xEE&lmV
this Waist, Which Illustrates the New Sleeve. 2XXX X A&kSk.q X. (
J ; jL E ', ' '. c Tailored Waist With Effectively Placed Buttons ; TrF T H YfZsJ
" YtrlZitf' I a D One of the Reason's Novelties a Waist of
fc E Embroidered Crepe de Chine and All-Over Lace, ZtV. C;:::::
i'i tjO- Trimmed With Irish Crochet Lace Buttons. J"1-CSyw
This Season s Linen Skirt
Waists Will Be Devoid
of Embroidery
Waists Are More
Lace Inset and
!
Embroidered I
T1 T7
x nan juver
to the uninitiated. Is a'very fine net of
silk or cotton, winch has the recom
mendation of laundering excellently and
looking always fresh nd dalntv. Whiln
we have been surfeited with waints of
net. from really exquisite nets of ex
pensive filet which rich Ince incrusta
tions to the abomination of the ready
made waist of coarse mesh and coarser
trimming, this Is (tie first attempt of a
net waist to enter Hie field of the tailor-made.
You may see how tailor-made It Is by
glancing Ht a sketch of It In the Illus
tration lettered D. It only breaks out
Into frivolity in the little ruffle down
the front. It is lined to yoke depth
both back and front, but the sleeves
are unllned, which will be a recom
mendation during the hot weather
months.
The tailor-made waists of linen arc
blossoming forth in a profusion of
plaits of all widths and depths. Of
( oiirsp. even In the tailored waists hand
inn tucks and plaits are much to be
preferred, but machine stitching Is
more excusable dn linens than on the
lighter materials, which ar.e combined
with laces and embroideries.
Sleeves on these tailored waists are
agitln long and end In the masculine
shirt cuff or in a turned back cuff
nhlch Is. however, ptlfflv starched and
fastened with link cuff buttons. Very
occasionally a bit of French embroidery
Is seen on the cuffs, the box plaits
down the front and the stiff collars of
these waists.
E Embroidered Crepe de Chine and All-Over Lace,
Trimmed With Irish Crochet Lace Buttons.
Rut If the severity of the waist for bove
strictly morning wear Is unbroken the "'Ink It
waists for more festive occasions amply
make up for it in their elaboration and
frivolity.
The moat fragile of laces are com
bined vlth heavy embroideries. Often
"to gild the Illy" the lace Itself is em
broidered and inset. All the materials
of other years ate again employed as
groundwork batiste, mulls, handker-
eolors of blue and pink and lavender
aa '
ng I
ng
he J
colored collars are destined for wear
with all-white tailored waists.
As for the jabots and little lacey bows I,
they quite beggar description. They '
fe most . charming and feminine seres-
soilcs. and the shops are overflowing
with legions of them of every charming
design and material. Exquisite hand
embroidery and real lace enter Into the
composition of some. Others are mar- 1
vels of fine hemstitching and needle- I
work. Again
used entirely. The jabots are becomlr
longer and fluffier, sometimes belr
so long that the end tucks under the
oeu nucKle.
While there is a certainty that these
will very early In the season become
unhappilv common, still they are too
prettv and becoming a fashion to be l
nastily discarded Ruffles of finely
plaited Ince-edged lawn of graduated
widths appearang from under one edge ;
or ine central box plait are somewhat
newer than the ruffles turning each
way. )
Now that many waists button In
rroni ann tne central box plait is so
plainly In evidence, there Is a sudden.
revival or interest in leweled studs
with which to fasten them. Very good
sets may be found, consisting of four I
studs, cuff buttons and a jewel-set
aieiv pin wun wnicn to rasten the lin
en collar.
Little Irish crochet buttons and but
tons of fine white braid are used on I
rine wnite waists. Irish crochet bead- ;
ing is Inset along seam lines with good
effect. Braiding with verv fine white j
cotton braid on linen waists, combined ;
with lace Insertions, is a fad of tin
season. It gives good results for the
amount or work expended.
Colored ties and belts to match will I
be worn. A little bow of Inch-wlda
satin ribbon heading a Jabot, an end of I
ribbon running down the center of th
Jabot to the waistline is a hint of color j
from Paris. Ruchtng Is worn at the
top or the extremely high-boned collars
attached to most lingerie waists. The I
edges of the sleeves are also finished
wun tne rucning.
the
cniur linens and lawns, they are a
here. But so lace Inset and tucked an
embroidered are they that very little
of the material Itself is seen.
The sleeve cut In one with the body
of the waist and the exact similarity
of trimming on tho front and back of
waists are two Important features. No
longer is all the ornamentation lavished
on the front of a waist, the back having
to be content with a few meager tucks.
As to sleeves an armhole is appar
ently something to be much ashamed
of Just now. For never In the trimmed
waists are we allowed to see to what a
sleeve is attached. The armhole Is
carefully hidden In some form of the
sleeve called kimono. Sometimes it Is
the sling sleeve of last summer, some
times a low-hanging little rape cut In
one with the rest of the waist, but al
ways a disguise is provided for the top
of the sleeve.
'And as to length why, almost any
length you fancy, with perhaps the
seven-eight length In the lead. That
is the sleeve ending a couple of Inches
T
wrist bone. I can't sav I
Is a bceomlnir tlac At whinli
10 Dung tno sleeve to a conclusion, but
what will you? We must all bow to
Dame Fashion's decree.
The yokes of waists seem to be of all
shapes round, pointed and square. On
a good many Imported models I notice
that yokes of fine, very fine tucking
are enclosed In bands of lace insertion
And, Indeed, tucking- forms much of the
trimming or laoorate waists. Alter-
H natlng bands of horizontal tucking and
d wide Jace insertion run up and down
inn whisis ana around the sleeves
following the direction of the wide
sleeve where It falls awav from the
rest of the waist at the turn of the
shoulder.
In the sketch marked "A," up and
down tucking Is combined with heavy
cluny lace In an effective design Below
the high-boned "choker" collar Is tho
pllsse ruffled turned-down collar which
Is seen on some exclusive Imported
models. The long ends of the tie, which
Is of pale pink satin, are decorated with
some cluny lace dangles. This Is also
original In that It has the bow of
pllsse muslin and one of satin
While I hear from Paris that the
day of the stiff linen collar Is fast
drawing to a close, each day sees more
beguiling collars shown in New York
shops collars quite glorified out of re
semblance to the stiff things In which
men Inclose their throats
They are embroidered and Inset with
lace motifs of delicately tinted linens In
WHY A WOMAN'S WORK IS NEVER DONE
'WOMAN HAS HER SPHERE
xlome the Place for H
Ler
By Mrs. John A. Los-an.
vX are there not the same help
ful, sympathetic women today
as there were a -decade ago?
Is the instinct of wnmon
",',' n longer as the magnet hold-
.' ing her to the home to children, to
', her husband?
' Borne who have studied the conse
; nuencea ot the amalgamation of native
and foreign races do not want for an
answer.
i , Cltisens from foreign countries ,.
pot brought with AbT thl. free
. lnd the same unity of purnoi.
. . tweeh husband and wife that ..i.f"
- In almost all countries 1 xUt"
' i Ka wt pr?ted l? 'whether this
is true or not, but It seems to be thl
. conoensus of opinion of those w-hn
, hava Investigated the matter that it ii
and that the women of today are not
. Interested tir the success of their hus
bands; and the .male members of their
.families.-.).';.: . . , .
One frequently hears that when hus
bands and fathers are over-lnduient
, au $haic j1ts o4 - dauxfctaraTths
women become selfish and unreason-
?hie JVfd ,are. n0t dl8Pai to share in
the efforts to accumulate wealth or
pracuce economies and self-denial
ercIse,r80nS f llmUed means Bho"
This certainly cannot be said of all
our women, as we have many illua-
lnatth!.' lVhe ?cnlevements ow men
e- interest ot their husbands'
fathers' and brothers' success
ir?,lherft '? an?ther Phase of the ques
tion, it has been claimed that Amer
ican women sometimes do too much
for their husbands and occupy lndus-
Hntt,,.iph08U,on" Whlcn they should re
linquish on account of the duties that
rat th.ere 18 aomething radically
wrong there Is no disputing rtta,caijy
nnli.ur W0Pen would cease to occudv
EnUons whlch take them from thei
trom their hJmea " them awa
"txalr.,?"""0, th"r do
much harm inlv'tabW yr7ieg,eCted, and
not . nrnri. A1?1 follows. It is
aulf SpjX'S women
By a "Woman of Experience
rilh, reason 1 am always tired,"
a friend of mine said recently
in my hearing, "Is that I am
always trying to put 15 min
utes' work into 10 minutes'
time. I undertake something that I
could not finish In the space I have
allowed for it If 1 kept on a full run
11 the tjme. Then when some accident
interferes all my calculations are
thrown out and everything goes wrong."
I am myself constantly fighting with
the temptation to undertake more than
I can accomplish In a given time. In a
way, I enjoy working under the spur.
1 hat is, if I have a long, quiet morning
ahead of me, with just as much as I can
put into it if I work all the while, and
with the ideal set before me of finish
ing a certain amount at a given-time,
there Is excitement and enjoyment about
It. But I don't like to see three hours'
work ahead of me? and only two Ihours
and half in which to do It. Nor de I
like to plan for fitting in everything
to the time I have at command, and
then have something or someone come
in and take the 10 minutes I didn't have
to spare.
I felt this especially the other day
w-lien i went shopping. I don't Ilka
shopping at all; at least, not shopping
as It Is generally understood. If I know
what I want, and where to find it and
have the money for it. I don't mind
going to the place where it is sold and
ordering it and paying for it. Ifut on
this special occasion the thing I thought
1 could find at a certain place was not
there, and I had to seek further. Then
when I found it there were two cus
tomers ahead of me, and I had to wait
my turn, gaining an appreciation, by the
way, of the circumstances that make
women push in ahead of others when
they are in a hurry. Bv the time I
had what I wanted It was too late to
do the other things I had planned for,
and since I had not allowed any time
for the hindrances I might have ex
pected. I was forced to go home with
my errands undone.
That is the trouble with so many of
us-. We try to put too much into a
given time, and then " when interrup
tions arrive they eat up our leisure and
leave us with our necessary work un
finished. It would be much better if wo
could so plan our work from the be-
vlnnlnr that wa m,M HcaM. n.i
positively be done and what we could
possibly leave undone. Oh, yes; I have
head that before, and when I have said:
"But suppose that you were ill and
couldn't do the things?" the answer
comes: "Oh, but that is different."
Well, I daresay it is. When illness
puts on the brakes and says "stop!"
there Is an allowance made for us that
we could not ask or expect when we
are Til ,?ut yet' )f we m go over
our dally lives calmly and dispassion
ately, don't you think wa can find
something that couldn't be crowded out
without doing any great harm to any
one, and whose omission would be of
benefit to the person who left it un-
Then there are the young women
S-.!m,K"OTftA?ln t0.P"t a" m-
w a iuttL mene will hold T
recollect all about it. I was that sort
of young woman myself once.
As a result, they are not willing that
mT-nf -f lnt,er!8t sha11 be cr?wSeJ
out. and so needed rest and reDoso ar
the things that go to the wall n5
then the girl fln!s out that patnco
and the power of endurance and of Bym!
pathy are. among the things that Vere
crowded out, and that she and others
must suffer for the lack of them It
makes no difference what may be the
age of the girl whether she be out in
th! ?Tld, Ukl?, Care of herself or in
the schoM getting ready for her life's
rr0i5n.efe7r. h ,s' In 99 cases ou?
at 100 she is doing too much and crowd
ing out some of the things that are
f'J!0reTthan other "enlevements
N.1t. tnat 'mean to belittle, this view
of things. Work is about the bluest
and finest thing i the world? and that
lH Veasc:n am ur'ng Vou glrrs
to do less, in order that you may do
better that which you do accomplish
j
FRIETCHIE S GRAVE MARKED
which they should have at all times In
their home and their loved ones.
Men, as a rule, are naturally selfish
and expect women to be attentive to
their household duties, even if they are
wageearning women. Man overlooks
altogether the fact that they are worn
out by the dally grind of filling any
position wageearners occupy, as well
as the fact that the addition to their
Incomes through the woman's wagos
roust be at the expense of their do
mestic bliss.
The fact that wives especially are
wageearners also begets a feeling on
the part of husbands of freedom from
responsibility. Husbands and wives
mf.apai ,n their aim and ambitions
of life, when, as a matter of fact tha
xfeal maonslbiHtg of providing nrsa-
erly for their wives and children should
rest absolutely upon the husbands and
fathers.
It would be better if the women of
the nation would insist upon them
selves and their families being sup
ported by their husbands and fathers,
which would allow them to turn their
attention exclusively to the discharge
of their duties In their homes.
Any woman who fulfills the place as
wife and mother as it should be filled
has little time to devote to other oc
cupations, however agreeable and prof
itable they may be. This applies par
ticularly to the younger women, whose
children are In their infancy and re
quire th constant attention of their
mothers.
In addition the waste that follow
personal attention to domestic affairs
fceeds most liberal compensaflo
capacit,y.P d 'r thelr ""vices In an?
JiJ"nf!nA a.1 ,nat,urany weaker physi
cally and it is impossible for them
thPfrrnWO masters-their home, a
their employers, without speedy de
struction to their health and break
ing down of their nervous oriraniia.
tions; the inevitable result ofbeing
over-taxed and over-worked.
intlulry hould be mads as to
whether or not the men of theDres
ent time are willing for their -wives i
undergo the drudgery and labor of
adding to their Jncomei to lighten their
burdens, albeit they mar havo to
(Merlfjo. thole douostiQ hLuUooa
From the New York Sun.
The rest of the United States might
unite in celebrating the Whlttler cen
tenary if It wanted to, but one town to
which the Quaker poet gave fame
couldn't be persuaded to Join.
rreuencK, Maryland, is divided still
as to whether the lady with "the snow
white hair" reallv did shake the Stars
and Stripes out the window of the little
house on Patrick street, and it has
never been very grateful to Whlttler
for the fame it got out of the poem.
But Barbara Frietchie did live there at
any rate.
What is very much more to the ends
of one youngster with a strong com
mercial Instinct, the lady is burled there
and without a headstone of any kind.
Moreover, there are enough tourists
whose nerves once tingled with delight
as they chanted the lines, "Who touches
a hair of yon gray head," etc., to pro
vide a pretty steady stream of visitors
to the high-walled cemetery.
Tho key, a monstrous affair on a foot
long stick, is kept at the sexton's house.
old lock of the high gray waif it seems
as If, in keeping with all the dignified
Old town, the opening gates ought to
reveal at least something worth while
The place more often sports a fair hay
crop, in which one prowls about hunt
Ins; for the crart of the supposed hero-ina
"Wahnter see Barbara Frletchie's
grave?"
I he accent of the very small-faced
bespectacled boy barely visible over the
top of the wall his ladder must be all
but to short for him is indescribable
with its trace of the south and Us
veiled hint of business.
"Yes. Do you know where it is?"
Kvldentlv n 0 wna nnlv woltfnff fAP a
chance to be willing, and with trousers
raaniiAfl V. .. ...... . . -
..aucu uj jubi one suspender ne urops
over the wall and heads like a bee for
the grave.
Evidently, too, he knew just what
questions every one asked, for he at
once pointed out the fields across which
stonewall 11 went- ,t
fame to the brook beside which th
.rneicnio cottage stood. J
"Reallv. now vnu hnltAH Tin taV,- . u
1 inui v uiu umi .'
..The by beKKed the question with
Don t you want a pebble to keep?'
cqaxingly pointing- to the top of ths
grave, neatly heaped with white stones,
and when the visitors rather hesitated
urged, "Most fos'r right fond o' peb
bles. Uncie'n I put more'n two bushels
cm that ere grave this sumjnsr beside
them ere now."
And then nudglngly: 1 j
otubi everyooay gr me a dime. I'm
i ii.-. muiiiijimniiy, as I
crave ."I'm e-nln tA - ..l-T"
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