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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 9, 1908)
:' s . , THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 9. ,1003. M l i i I i I I ii J 1 1 ii in I n -mmm. . tj I IK M I Ifi I Vl.nl X VV X fVi V atWJ .tX7 AW V -VS. EVV rmr IF . D UU I IL I f id 111 i', I (. Ca tlMI X5Tt --- 5" i lU'i 1 J s X V mam k mmm m 1. 1 'ran !Mi i".y "' Very Short and Muck Frilled Jackets Are a New Fancy, Gowns of Woolen Are Trimmed Witk Wkite Em Lroidery and Lace. Frenck Negligees Are Tkmgs of Great Beauty and Expense 1 WONDER If thr la ur part of wonu'i wardrob In which ah ' takes mor olid satisfaction thaa In her negligees. And what woman Is without a supply of these comfortable article of dress? 1 For, in some form or other, the are In demand at ereir hour of the ' . If int-Udr Is luxurious and breakfasts In bed. there are fascinating- little short ' ted Jackets of lace and lawn and ribbon which she can slip on as her breakfast 'tray appears. If she Joins the men of the household at their early breakfast .la the dining room there is a longer garment of albatross or china silk which .' can be donned hastily. Returning from . ; a tiring morning's shopping it Is much easier to replace a walking eosttune -with a loose-nanglng gown than to go through the bother of belt and oollar . again. . For a long time our knowledge of the tea gown was only gained from novels . of. fashionable English life, but at last ' the women of America av recognised the fascination of these picturesque garments. . They hare adopted them with enthusiasm,, not only for the hour . spent- around the afternoon tea table, but for the Informal family dinner as well. ' And after all a tea gown la only a sort of glorified negligee. So from the unlovely but useful y v "wrapper" to the robe of lace and silk In a variety of forma we number them -' ' among our belongings' and call them . blessed. " In the sketch lettered "A" Is shown a '" very lovely example of a French "robe In time,' as. our Gallic cousins call It. The dress is of satin, supple in quality, In color a charming greeny-blue. It Is 1 made on Empire lines, hanging straight and Blender from the bust In front. Around the shoulder are draped, flchu like. folds of blue chiffon. There are ao sleeves. Of course, the distinctive feature of the gown Is the wonderful lace, which Is used In such a novel wsy. From Its form one might Imagine it had. once been on of the lace shawls which used to so delight our great-grandmothers' eves. If this Is the esse, the shawl was Srobably split part of Its length, being rawn over each shoulder. . Fascinating little button roses, formed of soft silk ribbon. In pink shading to tea-rose color, edged the chiffon fichu, i On the satin dress a large design was ' applied In shades of blue, rose and gold. 'An altogether sumptuous dress, whlcn ' Illustrates what a thing of art and ', beauty a negligee may be. Lacs coats are most desirable In fash- Ike Vogue "of ilace Goat Enters tke Field, of Informal Dress and Proves Itself iidapt able to A French Tea Gotro of Bine Satin, with Fichu of Chiffon and Novel Ar rangement of Lace. It The Lace Coat plays An important part in the schem.0 of fashionable negligees. C Gown of Albatross with removable TJnder Kieeves and wide collar of lace and embroidery. I Dressing Jacket of French Flannel, trimmed with Filet Banding. E An Accordion-Plaited Matinee of Mull and Lace. F - An original ar rangement of ribbon on a muslin Dressing Jacket. Ion's ej-es e,s year worn with any kind of costume, but they seem particularly suitable when a part of these informal gowns. Although the expense of a coat of lace may at first seem beyond the reach of a slender purse, they are really in their way economical things, because they may be pressed into service in no many ways. Made without sleeves, or with loose hanging sleeves, they can be worn over various simply-made gowns, they in themselves being quite suf ficient trimming. One lace coat may in this way become a part of several neg ligees, may be the means of beautifying a dinner gown or hiding the deficlences of an afternoon gown a little out of date. Nor does a lace coat to come within the designation need to be made of lace. Some or the nets which come now in such really excellent patterns, jglve a "stunning" effect In the sketch marked "B" filet net of rather a coarse mesh Is used with success. It Is trimmed with satin ribbon and has a sleeve which still clings to the kimono lines. Down the front wide bands of insertion give a substantial finish. The back is cut on semi-fitting lines. This would be a very eaay coat to oopy.. Often in the bargain baskets of the lace counters In the big New Tork hops, tho girl who Is quick to recognize values can pick up lengths of very good laces at much reduced prices. These can often be made us of in contriving a lace coat or Jacket for It Is- quite "correct" to combine several kinds of laces in one garment - The clever needlewomen finds it fascinating work putting them together on the outline of a good pattern. The laces are some' times applied to a chiffon lining. Most attractive are the little slip-on Jackets of Una mull or lawn and lac which are making their appearance among the spring things In the shops. They, too, are Interesting work for busy needles, and th more handwork, on ' them,, of course, the better they seem to critical oTar ":a Jhey. ara short jUtU tfejsga. oominc sions. color scheme. The great charm of this little gown was, to me. that the collar of lace and muslin embroidery and the undersleeves of the same materials could, be removed and laundered. This gave such a crisp, fresh air and the blue bows which caught together the outer sleeves and fastened the front were very saucy. This would be an inexpensive negll- not quite to the waist line, and very wide and frilly. The one shown in the sketch "E" is composed of acnordlon plalted mull? with a shallow yoke of lace about the low-cut neck and pale blue ribbon bows placed effectively. The sleeves are very wide frills. These can be made of china silk or albatross, if something a little heavier than thin white material is liked. And the accordion plaiting may be dispensed with, fine tucking or several rows of shirring taking its place In giving the necessary fulness. There are so many charming dressing jackets and negligees made of muslins and lace that it is quite bewildering to try to make a choice. Many matinees are made to match the white under skirts with which they are destined to bo worn. The same lace and embroidery Is used to trim skirt and Jacket and the ribbon rim at "the top of the skirt flounce Is repeated in bows on the matinee. Colored embroidery Is to be worn on noi weatner lingerie tnis year. 1 saw a charming petticoat and matinee suite trimmed with lace and embroidery the extent of dressing utuuwiy eusea wun pais pins: ana eiaoo- Eno-if-h An mnnmtU ..4 n rata with nala mm, pitln rlkhnn. amAmr ""g"Sn OO, mOnOOlS ana ail, gee and quite simple to make. Th; col lar should be made bv hand, and the polka dot trimming could be dispensed with, or any other Kind substituted. The Greek Influence which seems to be making Itself felt among nearly all parts of our wardrobe is suggested In the trimming of the Jacket marked D. ' This Is a filet banding with ths Creek key pattern Introduced. The Jacket Itself is made of fine French flannel in a coral-pink shade. Tha sleeves are cut in one with the rest of the little garment On either side of the trimming Is a narrow applied band of tho flannel The buttons are molds covered with tho flannel. Across the front is a strap fastened with two but tons. This la repeated in the back. Muslin dressing jackets usually have for trimming ribbons of tho wash va riety or otherwise. But not often does one run across such an effective rib bon trimming aa Is aeen In the sketch marked "F." In this case satin ribbon Is used and : it lends quite an air of luxury to an otherwise simple little gar- For trimming negligees and matinees colored ribbons are usually chosen and they are made upi Into all Kinds of fas cinating little bows and rosettes. Roses miAa f rlhhnn not nults Ilk those do-l scribed on th French tea gown on this page but sturdier roses, made of satlni ribbon catch up lace frills. The shower! rosettes a rosette cf baby ribbon with! Innumerable little ends, each end hav- lng a bow at Its tip, are still found on Imported models. And they are a most! conuettlsh finish, although not new. t Kimono sleeves are seen on many oft the spring negligee gowns. Thev are tool comfortable a fashion to be dispensed' with in these Informal garments. Real. Japanese kimonos come to us In ex-i qulsltely delicate or gorgeously beautt-f ful colorings and are treasured by th women fortunate enough to possess them. Some of them are quite marvels' and birds In natural colors and life Sle But also, they as quit beyond th. reach of the moderate purse. But as usual mere is compensation ra be found. For th woman who has a shrunken bank account and a developed. love for things Japanese there are cot-f ton crepes, or moderate price, but really! artlstlo and full of color design. These! she may purchase Dy tne yara ana wunf a clever pattern ine very pauero irora which the little Japanese women fash-l Ion their kimonos she can make fori herself a garment most Japanese In f-l feet.- ' I . Their Peculiarities. From th Denver Post. Som of th members of th Baked theatre stock company have atartllnsi peculiarities. According to a man whd says he knows, th following ar aomej of them: I Franklyn Underwood won't use salt In his coffee in tn morning. Norval MaeCJregor- won't smok a el' aar while he's asleep. k Miss bllllan Andrews won't sleep In a hotel which la on fire, if she can helrj it, Edward Emery is so superstltlou that he won t drink carbollo acid on Fridays. Spotiswood Aitken la afraid of fir- arms and won't nut the mil isle of si loaded revolver In his mouth and pull the trigger. Miss Donah Benrimo would neve venture to walk under a ladder when If is falline? from a buildlnsr. Miss Alede Block la fond of animals but refuses absolutely to let an elephan walk on her. Miss Frances Blosson never eatd ground glass for breakfast and shd almost always, wears shoes when shd takea her morning walks. "SMART SET" COPIES ENGLAND What Sowed Women Set Out To Do They Accomplish By Mildred Stuart. . travelers and hav taken lessons on the breakfast in d, and leave everything ---..- . . .' . ... AfitAt ainA cvt inn waiiir nnn.ii niKns liihih ho flmn nvAi ' ; " jna"WA1,B ce aiana liter- X". .T.ViSstims of ter BrfS. v"I '7". ' J allv In. th nrnnlMMnnJi th. rrr?ir 3f 4-1 " L".B.Jr """ ecquir ino wreni d i . j, . T 77" " ' " : T " V i- speaKing riippantly of holy thinra an society denominated the Smart Set erican brain, . . : cf o-osslmn about their acquaintance in this country. Th most con- . nJli . . JaV.I I . lUl others of thir set. They must rd A on snlcuous members mtnAiA . , tli. - ceive tneir men rrienas at ail nourl spicuous memiwri nave studied quent and our wealthy peopl spent so ani Ka rellir to w..ta their time enl en EngUsh peculiarities in this respect to much tlm abroad in pursuit of pleasure tungiSmlmiuiM try the extent of dressinar nit th ther was no auch thing as a smart DOd to call to anend hours amoklnd exactly as th They bar thA lntAlv arrived, mnilala Ttis h,M. mhn English manners and einruMtnni "Ann't is planning her trousseau, I am sure, you know' evn to th swagger of their will De Detrullea into investing in at win a i V tw.l- mam r fnr i lnni A r . 7 . . -. ki.. . - a " .--.-' "- - laiaina nonsense. aiDDina win, ana mora mm a.w.mA than hvA Trtimd nianrv . . ,w . " 7 ing momseives at n lome. least one of these novel sets. If your search for embroidered mus lins and batistes of distinctive design and coloring from which to make neg ligees does not meet with suocess in th regular departments don't give up until you have tried the curtain department. Up among th curtain stuffs I have often found most charming and original designs and whisper! they are cheaper than they are in the regular ' depart ments. I recommend this to your atten tion. - A simple gown is shown In sketch "C." It Is made of albatrqs or nun's veiling, or some similar lightweight woolen material. "The original was pale blue, with, the dots of 'a little deeper ton. But,' If you ohooee to copy this, you could, of couias. plaa youc own kill tlm abroad they hav' found plenty M II ,1,Ala mnAm 01Thy hav. bV.n initiit.d'ln th wile. Having accepted so much at th handl a aharlatana and adventurers or no- of their club men friends they ar.undd bl birth who have ignobl minds and obligations they cannot, oisregard wit . . . . . t 1 (mniinttv nui m ha ' ithAtf lrnnw that th proiilgaia cnaraciem, wno iiav own s. J , --v.--w . JMr " " J""" i accomplished guides through th ta- profUgat mn friends would no w mA 'Aitirimta nf k. iti a mmn hesitate to discuss tnem at tneir ciuu Ther keen un with tha man an i vhar llojtnsMl tnimiltv runs riot without Wher It Is claimed that many a fal Mllaj 1T.. WmmA j.n m 1 . . -m i r. -. nam some or ine young women who "go in for that sort of thing" hav culti vated a carriage that Is anything but mala friend Americans are apt scholars and may hav gone farther than our English cousins. Naturally mor extravagant they may have carried on their dissi- vaiivn wim more aoanaon, but cer tain ii is mat foreigners . who peen in tma country and : who 'ai -of let or hindrance. nam nas oeen smircnea py iai me mr.A ,nn,.n initntn in a Mr, who have linserttd over their DraBdv an thlnaa in Europe that they would not oda until the amaU houra of th mornj think of dotnor at home. It fa littln won- lng." der that they hav imported Just as Continued Indolence breeds all th mnph u thav dare at Lunh rfianinatlnn Ttl of human nature. The InSlncerlt or that we hav been a steads- growth of th lives of Idle people can Produd hav of demoralising Influences tranaplantad no other results than to make thed hav to this country. - . , , hypocritical and disloyal to Ood, to thel been entertained bv th Kmart Kt In th berinnlna ceonle who adontad country and to themselves. It la ltd have given their hosts and- hostesses these foreign customs must first be- possible for either idle men or womej points in Iniquity and recklessness that com Inured to them. Tney must leam to live good and virtuous lives. To r would never hav occurred to an Am- to drink and to amok, tLey must turn good and true they, must be active ani encan. -. - . f nignt in io aay, ana leam to spena tn sincere ana is.im.iu 10 us Obiigatlori 'I'll traierniiy mum oeea great morzunM wuofuf aaa wubi . mir aoa auiM w iua
