:' s . , THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL. PORTLAND, SUNDAY MORNING, FEBRUARY 9. ,1003.
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Very Short and Muck Frilled
Jackets Are a New Fancy,
Gowns of Woolen Are
Trimmed Witk Wkite Em
Lroidery and Lace.
Frenck Negligees Are Tkmgs
of Great Beauty and Expense
1 WONDER If thr la ur part of
wonu'i wardrob In which ah
' takes mor olid satisfaction thaa
In her negligees.
And what woman Is without a
supply of these comfortable article of
dress? 1 For, in some form or other,
the are In demand at ereir hour of the
'
. If int-Udr Is luxurious and breakfasts
In bed. there are fascinating- little short
' ted Jackets of lace and lawn and ribbon
which she can slip on as her breakfast
'tray appears. If she Joins the men of
the household at their early breakfast
.la the dining room there is a longer
garment of albatross or china silk which
.' can be donned hastily. Returning from
. ; a tiring morning's shopping it Is much
easier to replace a walking eosttune -with
a loose-nanglng gown than to go
through the bother of belt and oollar
. again. .
For a long time our knowledge of the
tea gown was only gained from novels
. of. fashionable English life, but at last
' the women of America av recognised
the fascination of these picturesque
garments. . They hare adopted them
with enthusiasm,, not only for the hour
. spent- around the afternoon tea table,
but for the Informal family dinner as
well. ' And after all a tea gown la only
a sort of glorified negligee.
So from the unlovely but useful
y v "wrapper" to the robe of lace and silk
In a variety of forma we number them
-' ' among our belongings' and call them
. blessed. "
In the sketch lettered "A" Is shown a
'" very lovely example of a French "robe
In time,' as. our Gallic cousins call It.
The dress is of satin, supple in quality,
In color a charming greeny-blue. It Is
1 made on Empire lines, hanging straight
and Blender from the bust In front.
Around the shoulder are draped, flchu
like. folds of blue chiffon. There are
ao sleeves.
Of course, the distinctive feature of
the gown Is the wonderful lace, which Is
used In such a novel wsy. From Its
form one might Imagine it had. once
been on of the lace shawls which used
to so delight our great-grandmothers'
eves. If this Is the esse, the shawl was
Srobably split part of Its length, being
rawn over each shoulder.
. Fascinating little button roses, formed
of soft silk ribbon. In pink shading to
tea-rose color, edged the chiffon fichu, i
On the satin dress a large design was
' applied In shades of blue, rose and gold.
'An altogether sumptuous dress, whlcn
' Illustrates what a thing of art and
', beauty a negligee may be.
Lacs coats are most desirable In fash-
Ike Vogue "of ilace Goat
Enters tke Field, of Informal
Dress and Proves Itself
iidapt
able to
A French Tea Gotro
of Bine Satin, with Fichu
of Chiffon and Novel Ar
rangement of Lace.
It The Lace Coat plays
An important part in the
schem.0 of fashionable
negligees.
C Gown of Albatross
with removable TJnder
Kieeves and wide collar of
lace and embroidery.
I Dressing Jacket of
French Flannel, trimmed
with Filet Banding.
E An Accordion-Plaited
Matinee of Mull and
Lace.
F - An original ar
rangement of ribbon on a
muslin Dressing Jacket.
Ion's ej-es e,s year worn with any kind
of costume, but they seem particularly
suitable when a part of these informal
gowns. Although the expense of a coat
of lace may at first seem beyond the
reach of a slender purse, they are really
in their way economical things, because
they may be pressed into service in no
many ways. Made without sleeves, or
with loose hanging sleeves, they can be
worn over various simply-made gowns,
they in themselves being quite suf
ficient trimming. One lace coat may in
this way become a part of several neg
ligees, may be the means of beautifying
a dinner gown or hiding the deficlences
of an afternoon gown a little out of
date.
Nor does a lace coat to come within
the designation need to be made of lace.
Some or the nets which come now in
such really excellent patterns, jglve a
"stunning" effect In the sketch marked
"B" filet net of rather a coarse mesh Is
used with success. It Is trimmed with
satin ribbon and has a sleeve which
still clings to the kimono lines. Down
the front wide bands of insertion give a
substantial finish. The back is cut on
semi-fitting lines. This would be a
very eaay coat to oopy..
Often in the bargain baskets of the
lace counters In the big New Tork
hops, tho girl who Is quick to recognize
values can pick up lengths of very good
laces at much reduced prices. These
can often be made us of in contriving
a lace coat or Jacket for It Is- quite
"correct" to combine several kinds of
laces in one garment - The clever
needlewomen finds it fascinating work
putting them together on the outline of
a good pattern. The laces are some'
times applied to a chiffon lining.
Most attractive are the little slip-on
Jackets of Una mull or lawn and lac
which are making their appearance
among the spring things In the shops.
They, too, are Interesting work for busy
needles, and th more handwork, on
' them,, of course, the better they seem to
critical oTar
":a Jhey. ara short jUtU tfejsga. oominc
sions.
color scheme. The great charm of this
little gown was, to me. that the collar
of lace and muslin embroidery and the
undersleeves of the same materials
could, be removed and laundered. This
gave such a crisp, fresh air and the
blue bows which caught together the
outer sleeves and fastened the front
were very saucy.
This would be an inexpensive negll-
not quite to the waist line, and very
wide and frilly. The one shown in the
sketch "E" is composed of acnordlon
plalted mull? with a shallow yoke of
lace about the low-cut neck and pale
blue ribbon bows placed effectively. The
sleeves are very wide frills.
These can be made of china silk or
albatross, if something a little heavier
than thin white material is liked. And
the accordion plaiting may be dispensed
with, fine tucking or several rows of
shirring taking its place In giving the
necessary fulness.
There are so many charming dressing
jackets and negligees made of muslins
and lace that it is quite bewildering to
try to make a choice. Many matinees
are made to match the white under
skirts with which they are destined to
bo worn. The same lace and embroidery
Is used to trim skirt and Jacket and the
ribbon rim at "the top of the skirt
flounce Is repeated in bows on the
matinee.
Colored embroidery Is to be worn on
noi weatner lingerie tnis year. 1 saw
a charming petticoat and matinee
suite trimmed with lace and embroidery the extent of dressing
utuuwiy eusea wun pais pins: ana eiaoo- Eno-if-h An mnnmtU ..4 n
rata with nala mm, pitln rlkhnn. amAmr ""g"Sn OO, mOnOOlS ana ail,
gee and quite simple to make. Th; col
lar should be made bv hand, and the
polka dot trimming could be dispensed
with, or any other Kind substituted.
The Greek Influence which seems to
be making Itself felt among nearly all
parts of our wardrobe is suggested In
the trimming of the Jacket marked D. '
This Is a filet banding with ths
Creek key pattern Introduced. The
Jacket Itself is made of fine French
flannel in a coral-pink shade. Tha
sleeves are cut in one with the rest of
the little garment On either side of
the trimming Is a narrow applied band
of tho flannel The buttons are molds
covered with tho flannel. Across the
front is a strap fastened with two but
tons. This la repeated in the back.
Muslin dressing jackets usually have
for trimming ribbons of tho wash va
riety or otherwise. But not often does
one run across such an effective rib
bon trimming aa Is aeen In the sketch
marked "F." In this case satin ribbon
Is used and : it lends quite an air of
luxury to an otherwise simple little gar-
For trimming negligees and matinees
colored ribbons are usually chosen and
they are made upi Into all Kinds of fas
cinating little bows and rosettes. Roses
miAa f rlhhnn not nults Ilk those do-l
scribed on th French tea gown on this
page but sturdier roses, made of satlni
ribbon catch up lace frills. The shower!
rosettes a rosette cf baby ribbon with!
Innumerable little ends, each end hav-
lng a bow at Its tip, are still found on
Imported models. And they are a most!
conuettlsh finish, although not new. t
Kimono sleeves are seen on many oft
the spring negligee gowns. Thev are tool
comfortable a fashion to be dispensed'
with in these Informal garments. Real.
Japanese kimonos come to us In ex-i
qulsltely delicate or gorgeously beautt-f
ful colorings and are treasured by th
women fortunate enough to possess
them. Some of them are quite marvels'
and birds In natural colors and life Sle
But also, they as quit beyond th.
reach of the moderate purse.
But as usual mere is compensation ra
be found. For th woman who has a
shrunken bank account and a developed.
love for things Japanese there are cot-f
ton crepes, or moderate price, but really!
artlstlo and full of color design. These!
she may purchase Dy tne yara ana wunf
a clever pattern ine very pauero irora
which the little Japanese women fash-l
Ion their kimonos she can make fori
herself a garment most Japanese In f-l
feet.- ' I
. Their Peculiarities.
From th Denver Post.
Som of th members of th Baked
theatre stock company have atartllnsi
peculiarities. According to a man whd
says he knows, th following ar aomej
of them: I
Franklyn Underwood won't use salt In
his coffee in tn morning.
Norval MaeCJregor- won't smok a el'
aar while he's asleep. k
Miss bllllan Andrews won't sleep In
a hotel which la on fire, if she can helrj
it,
Edward Emery is so superstltlou
that he won t drink carbollo acid on
Fridays.
Spotiswood Aitken la afraid of fir-
arms and won't nut the mil isle of si
loaded revolver In his mouth and pull
the trigger.
Miss Donah Benrimo would neve
venture to walk under a ladder when If
is falline? from a buildlnsr.
Miss Alede Block la fond of animals
but refuses absolutely to let an elephan
walk on her.
Miss Frances Blosson never eatd
ground glass for breakfast and shd
almost always, wears shoes when shd
takea her morning walks.
"SMART SET" COPIES ENGLAND What Sowed
Women Set Out To Do They Accomplish
By Mildred Stuart. . travelers and hav taken lessons on the breakfast in d, and leave everything
---..- . . .' . ... AfitAt ainA cvt inn waiiir nnn.ii niKns liihih ho flmn nvAi ' ; "
jna"WA1,B ce aiana liter- X". .T.ViSstims of ter BrfS. v"I '7". ' J
allv In. th nrnnlMMnnJi th. rrr?ir 3f 4-1 " L".B.Jr """ ecquir ino wreni d
i . j, . T 77" " ' " : T " V i- speaKing riippantly of holy thinra an
society denominated the Smart Set erican brain, . . : cf o-osslmn about their acquaintance
in this country. Th most con- . nJli . . JaV.I I . lUl others of thir set. They must rd
A
on snlcuous members mtnAiA . , tli. - ceive tneir men rrienas at ail nourl
spicuous memiwri nave studied quent and our wealthy peopl spent so ani Ka rellir to w..ta their time enl
en EngUsh peculiarities in this respect to much tlm abroad in pursuit of pleasure tungiSmlmiuiM
try the extent of dressinar nit th ther was no auch thing as a smart DOd to call to anend hours amoklnd
exactly as th
They bar
thA lntAlv arrived, mnilala Ttis h,M. mhn English manners and einruMtnni "Ann't
is planning her trousseau, I am sure, you know' evn to th swagger of their
will De Detrullea into investing in at win
a i V tw.l- mam r fnr i lnni A r . 7 . . -.
ki.. . - a " .--.-' "- - laiaina nonsense. aiDDina win, ana mora
mm a.w.mA than hvA Trtimd nianrv . . ,w . " 7
ing momseives at n
lome.
least one of these novel sets.
If your search for embroidered mus
lins and batistes of distinctive design
and coloring from which to make neg
ligees does not meet with suocess in th
regular departments don't give up until
you have tried the curtain department.
Up among th curtain stuffs I have
often found most charming and original
designs and whisper! they are cheaper
than they are in the regular ' depart
ments. I recommend this to your atten
tion. -
A simple gown is shown In sketch
"C." It Is made of albatrqs or nun's
veiling, or some similar lightweight
woolen material. "The original was pale
blue, with, the dots of 'a little deeper
ton. But,' If you ohooee to copy this,
you could, of couias. plaa youc own
kill tlm abroad they hav' found plenty
M II ,1,Ala mnAm
01Thy hav. bV.n initiit.d'ln th wile. Having accepted so much at th handl
a aharlatana and adventurers or no- of their club men friends they ar.undd
bl birth who have ignobl minds and obligations they cannot, oisregard wit
. . . . . t 1 (mniinttv nui m ha ' ithAtf lrnnw that th
proiilgaia cnaraciem, wno iiav own s. J , --v.--w . JMr " " J""" i
accomplished guides through th ta- profUgat mn friends would no
w mA 'Aitirimta nf k. iti a mmn hesitate to discuss tnem at tneir ciuu
Ther keen un with tha man an i vhar llojtnsMl tnimiltv runs riot without Wher It Is claimed that many a fal
Mllaj 1T.. WmmA j.n m 1 . . -m i r. -. nam
some or ine young women who "go
in for that sort of thing" hav culti
vated a carriage that Is anything but
mala friend
Americans are apt scholars and may
hav gone farther than our English
cousins. Naturally mor extravagant
they may have carried on their dissi-
vaiivn wim more aoanaon, but cer
tain ii is mat foreigners . who
peen in tma country and : who
'ai -of let or hindrance. nam nas oeen smircnea py iai me
mr.A ,nn,.n initntn in a Mr, who have linserttd over their DraBdv an
thlnaa in Europe that they would not oda until the amaU houra of th mornj
think of dotnor at home. It fa littln won- lng."
der that they hav imported Just as Continued Indolence breeds all th
mnph u thav dare at Lunh rfianinatlnn Ttl of human nature. The InSlncerlt
or that we hav been a steads- growth of th lives of Idle people can Produd
hav of demoralising Influences tranaplantad no other results than to make thed
hav to this country. - . , , hypocritical and disloyal to Ood, to thel
been entertained bv th Kmart Kt In th berinnlna ceonle who adontad country and to themselves. It la ltd
have given their hosts and- hostesses these foreign customs must first be- possible for either idle men or womej
points in Iniquity and recklessness that com Inured to them. Tney must leam to live good and virtuous lives. To r
would never hav occurred to an Am- to drink and to amok, tLey must turn good and true they, must be active ani
encan. -. - . f nignt in io aay, ana leam to spena tn sincere ana is.im.iu 10 us Obiigatlori
'I'll traierniiy mum oeea great morzunM wuofuf aaa wubi . mir aoa auiM w iua