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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (April 21, 1907)
THE OREGON SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND. SUNDAY MORNING.. APRIL 21. 1907. .. 1L J UL L Main on the O ther Planets The Dinner Go wri of Taffeta and Tulle Which Mrs. PhiLIy lig Wore at the Closing Night of Metro politan Opera Hous$ Was the Striking Costume of That Week. Thc Very Latest and Most Correct Notes in the Smart Build of a Blouse. t n OT to know "Mr PhlL" Lvdig la to argue oneself . unknown. K.r dash, her saucy beauty, h.r Abandon to th. pollt. Joy. of our m naturally allow u an that jleaalng UtUa familiarity. 80 w. al waya caU h.r Mr a, PhiL, and w. all wonder what aba la going towear next. Iter utter defiance of all cut and dried dicta of faahlon makes Mrs, PhlL unique la ber pollt. world. She U beautiful and dark and Spanish. And In dreas aa in deportment ah. la always brilliant, daring, piquant. To watcb out for Mra. rbll'a neweat creation In clothe la ona of the atnueementa of what ope con veniently oalla "the 400." . To be aura it was a bit Ill-natured of. Mra. Fish to say of Boldlni' portrait of Mra. Lydlg that "It looked like Venus rising out of her clothes." But Mrs. J'hlL baa beautiful Ions lines and das Bllog shoulders and every one knows It. Boldlnl merely was Immortalising ber radiance, . v ': There's nothing like having a style of elgns between the scallops. Tb gown- was built la the draped princess style which Mra Lydlg affeeta, and the bodice, with Its wld girdle, melted Into the skirt lines as though the gown war all la ona piece. The top r, i w -' ' ' ' ,V ., ffJ ear 7 VfassV .3 V I aMI 'y'- aa" , . -a m. " 1 T" '..VI rr. i-esrTv aB eg. . f , -).-,', , " am Mm . i ' 1 1 ' iirsx fA jts!sh tiJIiii-" ii'ar iL Mra. Lydlg knows bar style, and for VwVA- yl t ..U A . U W ; ' X JS5!5r v'- rlng wear affect, a certain draped. . AvUV4 a " vA 1 WA !4 Vy : cllngtii.- type of gown which seta to ;. I mA V ' ) V w&&'?'J-'(&4i " perfection the fine lines of her figure. ' VV5i5 ' ' ATMy WW fm V ) V VxN : A A ' Vt'!f'W-n ' i'ew women can wear gracefully a gown W;rJ$f , . . V. ' Vl 1. Uv v 1 ' ,.. f th. sort in which Mra. Lydlg P- AVH4v3' ' ? M WAWV WW J f 'Al U W. ' ' Jlfet4A :v' pear at"tha opera a few night ago. OMT . WS ! 11 WW W, V 7 X VX :i ( '- and which is reproduced upon this pag TA 'r M if " AA VAV. 1 1 1 I A Vf VWv "A V ' NLi JT f J it.fw ' ' ' M5'"?- for th benefit of oar readarav who'ea-. " Cl;-' - ' i1 iiWAW ' 1 1 Vv V fcy oiamliilnc It. gmthw aa oscaUent Idea , v? ' ' ' WXyvW I W VV 0Cv ' ' of what constitutes art In dress. ; ' l"1 ' .V,:' . AM VViV Illl VA.X Sv : : 'V- Everybody remarked that the color - . iVrftMiAr : tv .. i ' It V V WW.. lllMV ANl. S5tM.'V . Hid not light up well at night, and ap- ; . peered too ' sombre for the opera, al though Ideal for a dinner gownwhich It really la. The color la green, of a . -clear, bright grass color, charming In : the Illumination of a dining table or a hou.e, but a color wbloh Immediately ; lost lta Tltallty and' became sombre In ' the mora 4tmly lighted opera house. Oreen Is a favorite of and very becom ing color te Mra. Lydlg. With one-' jrreeni costume, which she wore a sea- ' . on ago, she quite startled beholders . ' "with the novel effect of her glinting jrreen malachite heela. Tb gown ah wora at the opera was cif green taffeta, draped with tulle of. the tint color, daeoratatl with a anas. tried design. In several shadea Of green trou" the flgnr. with, an affect that . epanglea and sequins. Th spanglea were ' earUInly bewitching aud very char arranged la linea and festoon of flow- acterlstia of Mra. Lydlg. era, with mora elaborate pattern In '' Tn 'Ia" th bodlea turn upward, scallop, around the bottom of the tulle th PPr one raatlng upon tb bottom. wklrt. showing fan-.haped apangled de- ol w,a "ana or goia laoa stretched acroaa the front of the decolletage and resting upon fold of whllt tulle which barely show above tb gold. Tulle out line th back of tb bodice and serve, as shoulder straps. Little high sleeve mad of ere.eed of the bodlea, which was square la the '0,d of Un optn ov.r puffs of white decolletage, was entirely t of - tulle, tulJ butterfly bows of tulle stand ppangted and drawn quit full across UD rom shoulder. Upon one aleevo the bodlo lining. From beneath the arranaed a bow of thlcKy twisted Jft arm a spray of big green taffeta PM velvet In wired loops, while upon flower, fell across the bodice in slant the other is placed a big American to the bottom of th girdle on the oppo- beauty rose with a half blown bud aite side. The same line waa carried drooping down upon the . tulle. Upon out In the back. Below the, flowers. side of . the bodice a twl.ted bow The Taffeta and Tulle Dinner Costume Which Mr.' rhll Lydlg Wore at the Cloning Performance of the Metropolitan Opera, aed One of Mr. Phil Lydlg'g Stunning Opera Goirns, Front and Back, la 8ewl Simple Black Satin. . . on tb. left side of tn bodice, tb taf feta waa stretched bias In fitted folds. extends from the top to the bottom, on , large loop running to the top and two The bodice was finished with little high- finishing the bottom. These loops are tending puffed . aleeves of spangled arreen tulle. Near the .bottom of the front of the skirt the big green taffeta flowers war repeated. The taffeta skirt bung closely to tb figure at the top and fell out In lovely ripply effect around th bottom. Over It chiffon wa bung to soften th effect of the taffeta as seen through th tull overdrew. At the bottom '. a knife pleated chiffon ruffle fell over a similar on of taffeta edged with a chiffon ruchlng. ,,.-.-,.. ,.. , ,, ...... Mra, Lydlg wore a green aigrette In rev dark hair and made long and very narrow, carrying out the long linea of the gown, t No better Illustration could b had of th. fact that it does not. take a lot of trimmings ,to make a dressy gown, for this simple drees of black, with It touch f gold and rose color and it frosty rim of white tulle, had an air of distinction About it which many a richly garnltured sown might seek for In vain. The artlstlo modist can work wond- ors with a small bow and a wisp of tull and with thee almpls device, ah can glv a cachet and charm to a gown which at one proclaims It a work of tacks down each side, allowing the cen- In the back th bodice . Is ' fastened ter to form a full puff. This is trimmed down the middle of the puffed panel, with a lace lattice similar to the one which resembles the one In front, only on th collar. The puffing overlaps it Is slit down the middle and joined very prettily down the middle. ;.wlthlnvlslbl book underneath.. - . Sleeve of filmy dotted net are The feature of th blouse, however. Is trimmed with appllqued lac designs Its drapery of pal blue. This i. t and a band of transparent lac aur- broad piece of blue chiffon bordered on round the lower portion of th puff, it both edge with an embroidered hem in wavy outline enhancing the beauty of white designs of raised embroidery. It th effect This lace sleeve Is miffed over on of chiffon and I finished with a deep ouff trlmroed with a lac lattice upon chiffon and an embroidered chif fon band around the bottom, which ter minates abov th elbow.- ..i la laid over th shoulder and the top of the sle.v and 1 caught looaniy at apart, extend the length of the drapery in a tuoked stripe over an Inch in width and of extreme delicacy of ap pearance. The outer aide of the blue strip Is shaped under; the ' arms and seamed up so that th upper part fall ov.r th lac. puff like, a short kimono sleev that merges on - the under side Into a loose blouse. The arrangement of this loose drapery of pale blue la most effective. It la really the blouse. gowns In evidence. Positively vry other woman had on a spangled gown and these glowed with all the color of the rainbow. Not on the aama woman, of course, but the effeet ef oontraatlng ? towns of glittering spangle upon yel ow and white, pink and blue and erlm aon and green net waa quite beautiful. . This aeaaon's ' spangled gown ar wrought In mora airy and delicate pat terns and Incline to floral and shell ef fects, with empire wreathe and Louis XVI garland. The spangle usually rp- around her neck airier and doa enllar at Maria ftta art. affect or th whole ooatum wa on of Th dainty, diaphanous feloua la a handsome simplicity and tb.re waa no very Important garment In every wo eontrastlng color to break the ton of man' wardrobe, for it aocompanle so th gown. , many varletlee of gown. The bloua Another effective evening gown worn sketched for thla page llluatrate what recently by Mra. Lydig la really atar- th "400" ar wearing la thla Una, and tling In lta simplicity. The skirt la Just I think It wonderfully attractive. It a long flowing on of black satin, mad charm lie as much In tb delicate hand In the new Prcooll style, with the funny twork upon it a upon lta general out- ironi gore mar, is ao narrow at th top Una. Th tuck on th over drapery are and so aharply widen toward the bot- no wider than th mlddl ef a pin and torn, giving that adorable floppy, ripply ar all run by hand. On marvela bow jimva io me sown wmcn ta an tna rage human finger oan wan anything so although It Is an sheer that the fitted the belt both In the back and front.' ona beneath Is quite distinct in outline. The chiffon drapery la tucked lta entir ' Aa I glanced about the opera house ' resent aome on dominant color scheme, width across the shoulder with tiny during th close of th season, I waa with ether colore mingled In th deeiga tuoka which, la two group of Intervals Impressed with th number of 'spangled to lend it brilliancy. - . . . 1 r. 1 -: " News from the Shoe Shop -The Influence of the Short Skirt- ; . , The Vogue of Tan Footwear -- The, Cloth Top Boot - Hosiery Y T liv Paris at present. Not a speck ef any sdnrnment mars the wonderfully graorful line of this trailing dress, wlilch mergee Into the draped bodice as thnueh a part of It. giving a decidedly r rlnccsa etlect te th drees. The bodice ! rut s'lusr In the decolletage and I .I'.twJ cmsewis. .ad fastened la the tiny In tuck and keep them In aucb van lines. ' Tb blouse 1 made of whit chiffon, fitted to the figure and draped with pal blue chiffon. A atock and aquare yoke are made of transparent lan and embroidered ehlffon. A tiny frill edge xna icp or the etock abov. an embrot H4 a In point ef th. folds, hidden first dered border, which I repeated around en one side, thea on th ether, beneath m bodice drapery, ao that one marvel !,re any potat ef f natenlng occura. 1 I r enema te be a anemUas piece of .ua dtaaa la crosswlat falUa cloly Its lower portion. A diamond-shaped lattice la traced around the middle of the etock with narrow Wee. below the BTisre lace yoke a panel of pale blue cUiffoo U tucked, la tloy, crosswise III! .ho business ha undergone a wonderful revolution In the past few aeaaoni," remarked th affable aaleaman In an xcluatv Droadwav ahoo one day 1. at week, "and w attrlbut It solely to th short skirt which women Amerloen women ar - now wearing. "Tou , madam." continued thla communicative person, "with these short skirts women must of necessity wear good shoes, and not only good, but smart shoes. Th old long skirt was a menace not on'y to health and cleanliness, but th aho business w.11. Women bought one pair of street hoe In those days where they now buy three and four. "Why shouldn't wo advocate the ahort skirt' And from present lndlestlons it look aa though the vatneet bopea of the hosstaA war to bo fully, r sallied. . Pari continue to wear long skirts, a doubtless sh aver will. Th Parla lenn doe not take to th ahort-sklrted ooatum, knowing that It doe not b. com h.r a It docs the American woman. - who for one ha failed to emulate the promoter of th world's fashions. " - . . I It because w like th comfort of this ahort skirt. r, fashion-bound a w ar, appreciate the ultra smartness of the abbreviated skirt length In company with th moat faaolnatlng footwear w have ever seen? Methlnka the latter reason Is all too true, but of course, w appreciate its comforts, too. Tsn footwear wa worn all winter by mart d re sera with aeverely tailored anits of dark aergea and natty Engllah suitings. Young girla especially af fected thla atyle of footwear, and now tbat spring Is her ana summer not fax off, th tan walking boot and pump ar enjoying a vogu which , promise to ovsrahadow that of sornn II year ago, when tgn shoe wer firat Introduced. ' Many of th walking boot ar high- ll-bulton. they- call them, Juat aa they aay 10-button glovta, . The cloth-top boot la a novelty. The suede top is like wis new, and will doubtless take bet ter than the cloth top becauan of tta wearing qualities. These novelty top ar a shade or two darker In tone than th vamp of th aho and ar matched with nn atlk or cotton or Hale hoalefy. Th nw pump ar distinctly in thlr trimming of the tlnleai leather bow, whloh tak - the plsc of laat year's large flat bow of rlhhon or leather. Bom models are flnlsh-d with a narrow brald-lika beading edge, while other ar almply stitched around the dga, Tlpi ai seen, but th plain, round-pointed to I th better style. This model Is seen In black and color such a represented 1n th dres fabric ef the season. .-. - Natty shiny find dull kid button boot are topped with cloth In black and whit striped paturn. whit grounds with black stripes and black ground with Whit stripe. Thee ar mad speci ally to meat th demand which baa fol lowed th popularity of trlpd tailored costumes. Large whit button ar seen on some of thea boots, but the being more or lesa ronaplcuou. ar passed by In favor of thoee with black button. Aalde from tan, colored aho bav lost casta with women of refined last and Individuality In dre. their place bfflng iiaurped by the patent kid boot with black dull hid. top or top matching In color th material of th drasa. Such By Oarrett P. Bervlas. (Copyright, 10OT, by Amsrlraa Journal Kxamlnar THK question of the weight, sls . strength, etc., of man If remove) to th. other planet, ha. lately attracted much attention, and I . la alwaya intereatlng In lta bear1 ing on the greater problem of the hatu liability of that other world, i It may therefor, b' worth while to dlaouat briefly certain consideration afferaaei ' the oondltlnna In which one of ua Would I find himself on th moon, or alara, oi even on th sun. ' . . Th Chang of weight, or, what l virtually the earn thing, the change ir the fore of gravity, would be perhapt th moat atrlklng phenomenon. Th force, pf gravity on th surfac of planet la measured by two thing i firat, the total maa of th planet; see ond. lta radius.. Thus It Is easy to cal-. oulata the fore of gravity on any planet aa compared with It fore oi; th earth. Tak Jupiter, for Instance. The mas. of Jupiter 1 117 time that Of the earth,' and if it were no larger than th earth, bodlea on It surface would be SIT time heavier than th sam bodlea on th earth. ' But tb diametei and th radius of Jupiter are abou eleven times greater than thos of to earth, and since th fore of gravitatlo of a planet varies inveraely aa th sonar of a radius. It follows tha bodies on th aurraee of Jupit will. a far a distance from th cntr o attraction affeeta their weight, be 1 time 11. or 111 time lesa heavy than upon the earth. But, owing tflrvlujilJJ tar's Inferior mass, this would be k4 times heavier. To get the actual weight! w divide 1T by 121. the guollent J.I2 representing the ratio ef tha weight of a body on jupKer to that wnion it would bav on th earth. . . 'In other word a, a pound weight re moved from th earth to Jupiter would there weigh about two pound. and,.ix' tenths. On th sua a pound weight, would weigh more than IT pounda Oni th moon it would weigh only on sixth of a pound. , On Mara it would weigh; II-10Q of a pound, ota. 1 ' Suppose w-tak for a unit of com-! parlsnn a man six feet tail and weigh ing 100 pounda Put bint firat on th -aun. His weight would beoom 1.400 pounds, a burden that b could not u Dear. n would simpty pa cru.na t down by hi own ' avolrdupol ' and at bast could merely crawl slowly- about y jiR a snail. On the other hand, put him en th moon and ho would weigh only II pound. . while hla muscular strength and activity . would simply transform him Into an engine of astonishing me chanical power and an athlete of mar vellous ability able, for Instanc, to Jump over a fair alsed houae. or to outstrip a locomotive In a race. . On Mar ' M would weigh only Tl pound, and hla activity would aleo be proportionately Increased, although It would b much lea phenomenal ther than On the moon. But It la not probable, from what w know of the growth of organism on the earth, that men dwelling on other planets , would have the sam Dhysloal stature aa hr. - Their ls would vary with th fore of gravlty-r th large planets having small Inhabi tants, and th small planets large Ones. Let us again adopt a unit of com parison. Let It be th weight of th Individual. W have seen that a 0tt pound maa would weigh only It pounds on the moon and MOO pounds on the suu. "We want to have him weigh 10 pounds wherever he Is. For this pur pose w must vary bis ' in aeoord with th variations of gravity. Now. th maaa. a weight of any1 body depend upon It . cubic contents, and varies with tb cube of any principal dimension. A alx-foot nan on th aun wetgha 1.400 pounda wa wish to give him .a statur which will reduce his weight to th 100 pounds be was ac customed to on tha earth, r Th eun'e surfac gravity I IT times as great aa th earth's. To reduce our man to such a bulk that this fore will have only on twenty seventh a much mass to act upon w must reduce each of ,th man'a principal dlmenalons by the cube root of 17. Th cube root of 17 la S. We take tb height of the man than and divide It by I, tha reducing it from feat to I feet. - All hi other dimensions will come down In propor tion, and w shall Had that our two. foot man on th sua wigh 100 pounds. Neat w take him to the moon. There he is about ela time toe light for hla als. In order to bring him up to hi regular too pounda weight on th moon . . . . . . I. 1 H .u. 4 we must maa mm erww ...... proportion ef th eube root ef six. whloh la somewhat more than one and eight tenths. W wlU call It Just that. Then we multiply hi Six feet of height by on and tght tenth and ha become bout It feet v inene in neigm ana broad and thick In proportion. With these dimension h wlU onUnu te bring down th seal en the. moon his old flgure tOO pounda ; And ao as for th other planeta, ae niutrtd In th picture. It may be added that th height of a 100-pound man ea Mercury would be t fts en Venue, I f t I Inch; on Jupiter, feet Inch; en esturn, - xeet; oo Uranu and Neptune, ach about jtTSt I . Inch,' Cerea, shown In th picture, I on of th astarolda, only about 400 miles In diameter. . A eurlou thing la that, although In going to heavier worlds. Ilk Jupiter and th oun. th weight eould be di minished, as already explained, by di minishing th statur In proportion to a th root of th Increased fore of gravi tation, yet tne man . wouia not do as strong and aotlve aa a man of the sam i weight on th earth, because of the de-, crease In the its of hla muscle in pro portion t hi w sight vn tn otnr nana, in going to lighter : worlds, Ilk th moon end Mare, tha man would gain In strength, because . hla mnaeles would be larger In propor ¬ tion t hi WAIght. shoe are for dressy afternoon wear only. I. The new hoalary I not modest aa It shoe eompanlon. tripe and even check ar represented In . a goodly number ef design and coloring calcu lated to rival th dra fabrics wbloh way aim to oonaon witA In tb jura mer ooatuming. iw. Blaarr a om ef these Affeeta1 ma be, thy will not be conspicuous in th wearing, for tbey ar Intended to ac company th high walking boot, leaving th sher, plain Hal te tb company of the low pump or oxford. i ' Women aa Railroaders. . From th Kanaa city Journal. The number of womn emDlovad on th Bnaalan railway la lncreajiln. Aooordlng to th latst return, there are now working on the it Russian tar railway no fewer than 1 1,000 women aa gatekeeper, clerks, telea- rapher. eto. Th average wage varies from 110 -to ltl ruble yearly (, to 170). Tb xtrmee ar great Thus th woman clerks reeelv on an aver a from 450 to 410 ruble or about tiio, while th women attending at th sta tion ar paid only 40 ruble or about til I a year, In addition to fre lodg ing and a few xtra. -