The Oregon daily journal., August 26, 1906, SECTION FOUR, Image 38

THE OTZC0N SUNDAY JOURNAL, PORTLAND,' SUNDAY MOSKIKO. ' AUGUST tX'ltZl
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Tlias So Dcvolu:
tionizcd Siim
mcr Gowning
pnt Women
f Go Motoring in
Fine
i Gawes, Travel
ing in Daintiest
lingerie Gowns
aiid Wcar the
Filmiest Diaph
anous Cos
tumes Eyery
whereOutdobrs XHI utemobll. has eomplt1i
X; MvelutloniBed lunntr dri
Inc, and city strwu art full of
' daintily attlrad wpman In pla
-( th flWdraaacd crowd wh formerly
appeared In a walat of ona sort and a
akirt or another, with, parhapa, a ooa
thrown oar taa arm.
Now that ao many woman eoma to
town In thatr own motor eara, draaaad
- oxqulaltaly la tha fllmaieat whita fowna,
all-woman who eoma to town gown
thamaelraa prattllr and ' daintily. 1 In
draaaaa aultabla for a tunehaon at aoma
raataurant or frtaad'a homa. and even
In dinner a-owna, with aoft, lifht wrap
to covar than. -. '
- What woman who own automobllai
do practically all other woman try to
do. Aa tha mawntr of woman ao not
own motor eara. or perhapa anly har
ona In tha family, It la vary much tha
fad to hlra motor caba to about 1A
luochinr,' ealllna and ahopplng. - And
tha reaaon of all tbla ! not only In
tha vog-ua for automobilaa but in tha
lova for fllmay, eharmlna: auramar toi
let ta which cannot stand balny trailed
about tha duaty atrreta or wun- In and
out -of atraateara until their beauty ta
tranaformad to raya. 5
No woman will deny that vanity ts
at the bottom of all fada. Every wom
an knowa that aha looka her beat In
aoft folds of white lawn, lace, and lln
frerie, with an attrartlva hat In place of
the - stiff, unbecoming; bet- which waa
formerly relesated to street wear. Tha
'woman who cornea to town no longer
dona a traveling; dress invariably warm
and unsuitable to wear , at the lunch
ona which form a feature of her day
In town. 8he wears ajpon tha train or
trolley aa pretty If not always aa ex
pensive erowne as are von by women
who come to town In their own motor
care.''. Upon reaching tha city ' they
appear read and lovely to look upon
and o gbout their ahopplng, railing; and
lunch aartlee feeling comfortable and
looking attractive. Those who caa af
ford It hlra a motor cab or A hansom,
and thoaa who cannot afford these com
forts take a streetcar or walk; but all
look aa different from tha women who
filled tha streets aadV-eoatanranta two
aummere ago aa It la poaalble for hu
man belnga to look. Tha unattractive
caterpillar in dark traveling; - garb la
transformed Into a radiant white but
terfly, and tha automobile has worked
this transformation.
. The Illustrations on this pare are
rood egamplee of tha etylea of whita
rowna worn In town and in transit
thither. -r :
while manr automobile gowns are
made with stock collars, it Is smartest
. to wear, them without oollars end with
Just a finish of laoe about tha neck.
, which may be cut high and "round, or
Just a trifle low, aa In the Dutch neck.
with a round or square effect
A Motor Gown, In Mull. "
When - necks are" cut In this style
fashion providea aa a protection when
In the motor car a long aoarf of chiffon
of the eolor of the gown, and thla may
be wound around and around the neck
and shoulders aa often as msy be nec-
. eaaary to warmth. Another smart
fashion Is to wear a big square of very
thin white mull, edged with narrow luce.
and wrapped around the shoulders.
' These aoft iTraperles are immensely be
coming to women and afford aa much
protection aa they need on warm or
duaty day a.
Tha gown shown tn Flrure A la In
' tended to wear at a luncheon, and la
built of very sheer white mull The
top Is made with 1) rows of corded
ahlrrtng leas than half an Inch apart
-,ja tna lower part of the eklrt two
.' croons of live tucks each alternate with
' a wide band of two contrasting kinds of
open laoa inserted between them. The
' lower half of tha lace bend la tn Flem
ish lace, with a deep acelloned edge ap-
pllquea upon tne ton or the tucked nor-
tlon beneath It Still farther down two
wide banda of very e?n thread lace
. alternate with a wide band of Flemish
lace. A bottom border of the aama lace
la added, with Its scallnpa hanging
above a medium wide flounce of Valen-
. clennea. ,
The drees gores In the bark are cut
lone- In order to lengthen the train.
which is given additional Mength by In
serting the full width of' transparent
. lace bartd la tha back. They are only
half width la freaf and graduate at
tha sides.
Around the lower portion of a plain
Mouse of sheerest mull-are a group of
five email tucks followed by Ave rows
of corded ehirrlng. Tha top of the
Mouse Is of open la ca, with a round,
mllarleae neck and a lace stock to be
!th rn'iTH-TrTf-wm. mr man ihj.
low yoks la bordered by a row of deep
lire tnnw each-Jab finished with three
mbroidered points edged with Flemish
Tbeee tabs haaf aver Wide
.wAwVAnarA if X-aVi'
a- v - - y ' m jay- s saw .
ill
band of open laca bordered by large
Bcallopa of tha Flemish pattern. - -
A puffed aleeve of Flemish laoa Is
gathered to a wide, fitted band of open
laca. . From thla cuff long points of
embroidery edged with Flemish lacs are
turned up on the ruff of the aleeve and
caught in place. . The effect Is very
charming. .,..,-.'';. s ,
Smart Simplicity in Pure Wbitet
' Thla gown Is worn with a moderately
wide round aatin girdle, which may be
finished. In the back tn any of the amart
styles at present In vogue, i
It la not necessary .to use the aama
lacea as those Illustrated. Tha Idea la
to combine a very open meshed lace
with ona of cloaer pattern and heavier
variety, although really heavy lacea are
no longer. amart on auch material a and
the contrasts are now effected by meana
of open and close meshes of lace. Any
stieer white material may be made up
In tbts pattern, which Is. very simple
and yet quits -beautiful. .
Flgue B shows a simpler gown of thin
white material for use In the satomoblle
when coming for a day In town. The
skirt Is pat on ths belt tn groups of
seven tiny tucks each at short Intervals
apart.. These tucka terminate Just be
low the tilpa. The akirt la embroidered
over in clusters of flowera and -polka
dots. The bottom of the skirt Is
trimmed - with three - ruffles of
Valenciennes laca over an Inch in
width. The last of theae ruffles edges
the eklrt, end ths upper two are put on
tn deep Vandyke polnta beaded by a row
of Valenciennes Inserting and with the
Intervening points of the material filled
In with a lattice of inserting or tha aama
aort pf lacs, about half an Inch In width.
If tha task of putting In thla inserting
proves too much for, the home dress
maker, tha polnta could be decorated
with crosswise tucka or little crossing
raff lea of lace. , Theae would not be
quite as effective aa the dainty lattice. .
Above theae lace polnta la a wide
Wall-of-Troy border of embroidery, over
which Is ' embroidered a trailing vine.
The .train of the akirt la lengthened tn
the back by making the laoe-bordered
points longer there. . '
The lower portion of the blouee la
made In groups of flvs tiny tucks with
intervals of plain material aver an Inch
In width. .
The chemlsetta of sheer figured lawn
has buttonholes worksd along the upper
edge below a finish of lace. Ribbon la
run through theae buttonbolea and tied
tn a little bow In front. -
A deep, square-pointed collar eitends
out from this chemisette which Is bor
dered by a wide fold of light blue aatin,
of graduated width, crossing In tha cen
tra of the front In a point, with three
overlapping taba In each banging end.
Ths collar la made like the trimming
on the bottom of the drees en a small
acale, and la flnlahed -around the edge
with a tiny hemstitched knife-pleated
ruffle. The back of the collar la In a
wide curve, following the outline of the
aatin fold which outllnea the beck of the
neck below the narrow lace edge. Here
the top of the collar la made In little
tucka flnlahed by a narrow Valenciennes
ruffle above a border at Wall-of-Troy
with an embroidered vine running over
It It has ths same edging of pleated
lawn which comes up tha divided cor
"Ta.oi .tha. .collar upon , tha . shoulder.
The separation of the collar In the back,
where the gown faatena. does not ahow,
as It Is made suffielently full to bang In
a fold In tha point that hang fvSr the
faeitnlnge. , , ' , , . .
i'lt ii ir -ii ii i i i wm. i . ay v . a v i r r - t i - u ,v ar e
. A white satin belt Is worn. Instead of
a blue one. for ths reaaon that a blue
belt would mar tha Ions;, graceful lines
Of the figure. , , ' -'
A short,' full aleeve Is gathered to the
armhole and also In a full puff at the
back, where It joins ths fitted cuff. This
Is. of embroidery edged at the top and
bottom by Valenctenaea lacs put on In
little ruff lea. The puff of the aleeva la
crossed by three folds of the dress m
terlal4 with laca rufflea on their lower
edges.
This style of-gown Is suitable for al
most any thin material, whether flow
ered or plain, colored or white, cheap
or ooatly. In the case of flowered and
figured materials It must be remem
bered that less laca la necessary la ths
trimming. , r ,
An Effect Tn Whita Linen Canvas. -
Quite a oontraat ta the aoft delicacy
of ths two eostumes shown Is the white
linen canvas gown ahown la Figure O.
It la of a vary heavy quality of linen
canvas, heavier1 than crash and, very
handsome both la material and appear
ance. ' f U .
. It la a ault ooatume, w(Lh a aktrt, coat
and choice of two walata, one of canvaa
and one. of lingerie. As ths latter Is
daintier for midsummer, . as well as
cooler, that one la ahown In the picture.
A braid which looka Ilka a tow of hand
embroidery, and which is . the width of
soutache,- Is used In the trimming sad
haa all tha appearance of an embroidered
outline stitch.
Ths coat la made with a aeam on the
ahoulder and with the neck bordered by
four rows of this braid. The front la
out In tprae deep narrow pointed panela
from the neck and ahouldars down.
Theea polnta are folded square at their
apex. Between them are - panela of
coarse-meshed open laoa of a new' and
fascinating variety, widening at the
bottom - Into, acatlopa - that are edged
with deep fringes of .linen ollvea and
tassels and bunches of fluffed-out knots.
Thsse panela are sewed down -to ths
points of linen with-two rows of the
braid in a leather pattern. The front
edges of tha coat' are In two narrow
linen veat piecee part of the way down,
trimmed and fastened with little froge
and knots of braid.
Tha back of the coat la tn two pieces
aa each aids a center panel of the pe
culiar lace, which ends in a acallop
abovethe belt and la framed In a ladder
of braid. Narrow lace panela, acalloped
at the bottom and pointed at the top,
finish the sldea of- the back, which are
connected to the aldee of the front by
two straps ' under each arm near the
bottom of lh coat Fringe trims tha
scallops In ths back, end tha coat la
without eleevea.
Sleeves may be Inaerted by cutting
tha underarm pieces wider and eurvlng
out an armhole, but the odd square
methods of finishing off tha armhole
of ahort Jackets are very pretty.
For eoats of this kind home-made
crochet laoa and Hardanger line or
crash may be employed by theae . who
cannot well procure' distinctive trim
mings. The lace In thla Illustration Is
like a fishnet of coarse linen thread
with a pattern appllqued upon it formed
of piecee of linen mesh but little more
open than that of the material, outlined
-bjtbraid. nd..,trlmmtdirJUi--bjajibuu,
tone. Persons might of course imitate
It to a certain degree by cutting out
deelgna In loose-meshed crash-and work
ing them down upon aa opea net in tha
aama manner,-,, .... ,
C A "" Handsome
Street Gown of
Heavy Linen with
' Appbqne Ltce
Triinrninf.
This Is merely a blot to tha . home
dreaamaker who must economise In
every particular.
The akirt of this amart costume la
eat upon-the belt In 11 panels made of
ona front gore, four bog pleats on each
aide and two box plaata In tha back.
Tha aide box pleats are all tucked tn
their tops with three tiny tucks each.
Theea little tuoks only extend a few
Inches down and give a snug fit to ths
FINE CAMP OUTFIT.
What ;Ypu Need for Ideai Summer
v'j 1 , Life. - . ' '
' Roughing It under eanvae In primitive
patriarchal fashion ts about aa much
genuine fun aa tha average vacationer
oan find In aummsr. It is tha spproved
formula for living the simple life, snd
It meana health, freedom from cars, and
plenty of fun If followed out In the
right way.
The cost of an outing In camp may
bo Just aa smsll or as largo as ona
wishes' or can afford. In many wood
land placea It Is possible to rent a plot
of camping - ground ' for - about II a
month, and when that part of tha bual
nasa la arranged ona oan Inveat In a
tent a log cabin or ovea a portable
cottage, according to one's taa tea or ths
extent of one's finances.
For about $11 It Is possible to buy a
very itlsable tent, large enough, anyway,
to accommodate two or three eota and
other essentlala of camp furniture) and
aa it will with reasonable eara laat for
several aeaaons, this la really a very
good Investments' 1 .
Folding oots make very good beds, but
hammocks take up leas space, and many
people prefer them. In clear, dry
weather it la pleaaantev to aleep In a
hammock under the treea and In tha
open than In the close confines of ths
tent As a protection against Inseete,
each hammock ehould be provided with
a covering of mosquito netting.
Other indiapttinablea tn the camping
equipage arc a folding-table, a aupply
of campetools, a couple of enameled
palla, two waahbaalns and a dtahpan, an
oil atova, a lamp, a lantern and a oan of
oil. enameled cupa, sauoera and plates,
with knivee, forka and spoons of whits
metal, a teaketeie, eorree-pot. fry in g-
pan and a .aouplar-aaujepaPjiAUi
agate ware, and Anally, plenty of towels
and paper napklna, aa well as blanketa.
pillows, ate. Also a corkscrew and a
can opener. . '
Am you value your peace of mind, do
j '
top of the akirt and also fullneas enough
to make the eklrt aet looaely away from
the hlpe. It la cut walking length.
The box pleats are atltched with their
ad gee close together , almost - to aha
knees, where the release of tha pleata
ahowa - a full akirt In looaely folded
pleats beneath them.
A wide band of linen lace forms the
front panel, with a border on each aide
of two rows of braid with frogs and
buttons. Ths bottom of this panel
not overlook thess small but Important
Implementa, for Ufa In camp beqomea a
dreary nightmare without them, r
Do not cumber yourself with an ax
penalve wardrobe. The charm of camp
life Ilea largely In Ita uncqnvenfion
allty. and no sensible person wants to
dreas Ilka ths camper of ths fashion
plates. . " .
Short Skirts and loose ahlrtwalata are
the approved coatume for the women
while the men wear anything they
choose or that comes handy, pongee,
unstarched cottons and outing flannel
ars tha ' beat materials for eamplng
ahlrtwalata, dresses or shirts, as it Is
almost Impossible In many places - to
got laundering dona, and these fabrics
eaa easily bs laundered In camp.
' -In buying provisions do not intrust
yourself to ths tender mercies of the
village store. " -
Buy only the best quality of canned
goods, and Omit perishable ' delicacies
from your list altogether. Butter should
be bought In a sealed crock, and whan
opened the Jar should bo kept etandlng
In running water if poaalble.
Sugar, flour, cereala, must be kept
off the ground, or ante and Held mice
will get into them. If the rases in
which your camping outfit la packed are
made with compartments . they will
prove excellent store oloeete when stood
en end.
Beware of building Urea where there
Is dry underbrush. . If a Ore Is needed,
make first a fireplace of atonee, - Do not
eareleaaly throw aalde burning snatches
or cigar stubs. Disastrous forest, fires
are so easily started that one cannot be
too oautlous. . .
. asagetsaed aveam. wy suing. :
J The following bill of fare, says the
New Tork livening Mall, le offered to
the) patrone of a down-town reetaurant
tn Hoboken: '
utn cnowaer.
QJLL!lambu
urger8teeY
Korn Blf at Kabbltach.
Ftsch Cake.
Hungarian Oulasca,
flmoll Stek.
Fried, Had, - ' ';
hangs la a deep fringe to ths sdge of
the nam. Above the hem Is a wide
band Of the coarse linen lace and above
thla a dlamond-ahaped dealgn mads of
interlacing -rows-of linen' and brnld.--
The waiat of the aama material, which
could only be worn on cool daya, It la so
heavy, la made with a lace yoke and
with the coarse lace and braid trimming
tha aleeve and blouse.
For uaual wear a amart little mult
blouse la built with a small round yoke
ERRORS IN STAMPS. ,
Mistakes That Have . Mad Issues
Valuable to Collectors, v ;V
. Stamp errors, er poatago, stsmps de
fective through mlntakes in printing or
a wrong use of colore, are everywhere
highly prised by collectors, and the premium-
upon, them often exceeds that
oommanded by some of the rarest spool
mens of the regular issues. The prin
cipal reaaon for their' high value la due
to the soarolty of ths errors, as In every
case the government isaulng them puts
forth every effort for their recall, and
thua very few aa a rule come into the
possession of the general public.
There are many of theae errors, all of
them commanding high premiums. In
some esses they are sold for aa much
aa It. S00, but it la not eaay to eet an
exact valuation upon all of them, aa
they ars not on ths market the known
specimens being closely held by theli
ewnere. It is not Improbable that If
soms of the rarest of the .errors were
for aale they would bring a higher price
then the one mentioned. .. Thla-atamp
Is ths - South' Australia 4-penny blut.
Is sua? of 1170, with the aurchage omitted.
It la worth It. 100 tn unused condition,
while svsa ths used copies fetch 7S.
The next In point of rarity' ta tha
4-penny Weat Australia sump with the
center Inverted This ta worth 1 1.000.
The perfect laauee of the aama stamp
bring only 11.10. - .
Ths United States furnishes ' one of
the greateat of theae rarities In the
Inverted center It-cent atamp of .lltl.
This Indeed la the highest priced stamp
sver Issued by this government -being
worth l00. Other-stamps used' In this
eountry have fetched larger sums, but
they were slther ths poatmaater or con
federate stamps, and theae are not in
cluded among the regular United States
aeries. - w.. w -
Errors were made In three varieties
of tha Jill taaue of stamps the 10. 14
aand la-cent denomlnatlone. The It-sent
of transparent lace to which the bio us
Is shirred. Rows of shirring below thi
give ahape to the blouse. -.
Puffed sleeves have alternate Ilttl
puffs and rows of ehirrlng at the elbo
above a lace cuff. -
'Any pretty atyle of lingerie walsJ
would be suitable, and a braided line
belt made with the coatume. could b
worn, or one of leather or of satin th
color of the linen, which la a dee
cream. JOSEF A WILSON OSBORN.
was printed tn red and blue, the' 14-oer
In green aad violet end the it-cent i
brown and blue. -
' The central part f the 10-eent deslg
consisted of a shield surmounted by a
eagle, on either aide being two folded
bflage of different colore. . in a numbe
of th.ee stampa tne nags wars prime
unsids down, and from this fact th
stamps got ths name of Inverted flad
Stamps-
Ths 14-ceht error, With the declare
tlon of Independence Inverted, noH
brines 1200. while one of the same laau
with the design In Ita proper position!
brings only I12.M. The 18-csnt Inverter!
stamp, with the landing or uoiumoiu
upside down, also le valued at 1200
while the errorless one ortngs oni
tl.lt. ' The ! 10-cent errorless gtam
brlna-a only 111. m
Several of theea stamps were foun'
not long ago among the rorrespondeno
of an old Parisian merchant, and thl
la only ona of many rich finds of rar
United Statea stamps made on the otheil
aide. . It la the ouatom of foreign bual
neea houses to keep -all their letter
entire, whereas ths average buslnesi
man here. ' while ho preserves the con
teatev-tkrowe-ewey the-
' grew fork Zee rlaat.
.' Fron the Boaton Globe. ' v ,
New York la going to have a city leel
plant which will coat about tlt.ouoj
will begin operating next winter, and!
will make 11,000 tons a year, at an estl-l
mated coat or i.it or leaa a ton. The!
department of correction uses abouti
4.000 tons a year and ths department of
charities, with all - the city hositala.
mora than 1,000 tone. As ths city Is
paying ta a ton zor ice mis summer a
considerable saving will be effected
unlesa there la something wrong abotn'
the estimates.. . f : A
kn yiiniaf,
"Wlsht I knew." said Uncle Josh thla
morning, "whya little-dor ailns barks
at a big one an' then mehbe I'd know
why an onauoceaaful feller allue aai
spiteful things aboutf a eucoessf ul one,"