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About The Oregon daily journal. (Portland, Or.) 1902-1972 | View Entire Issue (Feb. 13, 1903)
Fas Mm ' BY WINIFRED OUTER. : ; ' ' Such a mingling of Oriental nJagnlflcence and Farlslaa dalnUnea! WI Qulnlan on ' the one id, dainty, petite and vivacious; Nia Serri on the othtr, Blender, wllowy snd composed. The .lovely Wue gewn worn by Mlas BarH"' In "Th Sultan of Kulu," with Ua heavily embroidered skirt and full soft sleeves of lace, la a Joy to look at, The long, graoeful line ara per. Mirrored . by feet. With every movement It fall Into new and beautiful fold. The hat worn Well over the pretty face. ta soft Plume curling over the brim, la exUremely be coming to Mine Berrt a girlish prettlneas. The way aba weara U Is enough to mane tlja soul of woman green with envy. It I. one of thoaa fluffy, aoft things that rem to have nd begtnnlngsnd "f!: ghlrrlnge and puffs aud ruffles. It CnM epaquathHiH W4 thin, every poeslul aadj Mlie Berrt evidently has a great effen Hon for ' beads. She wear them with ropes and stranrie and twists. They go many times round her neck, and they hang below her kneed. Her dainty white frot'k, with Its garniture of roaes.-is a great contreit to the a I molt barbarlq dla play. Not ao imposing In her style la Mia Qulnlan, but surely there never was a daintier person with her dancing and graceful gestures, her ruffles and fringes. With every swish of her saucy aklrte sha displays a bewildering- maaa of ruffle, "thrills and frill.'' aa someone called them.' Iff r rhenllle overdress Is a mar Vwl lit softness and rlchnetts. It fits the lithe HtUa Hgure to perfection. The clus ters of vlvld-bued blossoms worn over tb ears ara Just the risb kind of finish to the Oriental costume, la'" thf" all in all. these "BulUn of Bulu,r tnaJd- ena ara very dainty ttd attractive young persona. m w Hi n. 1 X 1 r HQ us I n mi a l 1 mm m WA ) m .e I" HA 0wm oi Bla Crepe. Geld Paillette ad Apricot f Ilk. Oreea Fa VeWet amd Piak Chiffon. Black Ckeallle Over Oreea. WWte gatla Wltk IUtv laaaslea. t , In the Feminine Worfd- . Aa the season grows older It bocomea more evident that this is an era or trimmings, braids, tassela, eequlne, but tons, folds, bias bands, embroidery and laces. ---; " ; Roses, made of chiffon, arranged on streamers of net hanging from the sleeves and blouse, were a striking feat ure of a very modish gown worn lately. Collars are omftted, on many gowns and wraps to suit the prevailing' erase for flat neck effects, narrow bands of embroidery being' substituted. t V - A facing of black bebe ribbon was the no vet trimming effect joining the upper and lower parts of a fur collar that came from a very smart furrier. The mid-season hats, especially designed for wear at so cial functions, show some fairly ravishing color tones most artistically blended. , Picturesque effects, with any quantity of lace and em broidery, are most prominent among the fashionable tea gowns and negligees. While slbeline is very fashionable this winter, smartly gowned women do not use the exaggerated long-haired kind. . One of fashion's favored maxims this year is that trim . ming is never too profuse if governed by good taste. There seems to. be a slight revival of the box-pleated skirt back, as quite a number are on view in the shops. The low coiffure is the smartest for the street, to accom modate the fiat, drooping bats so popular now. Fine white net is an innovation for bridal gowns that promises to be very popular witn briaes. The really smart tailor walking skirt has never a circu lar flounre aa a foot finish. i Bunchy or fluffy neckwear la tfulte passe; flatness alone prevails. . A little handwork gives an individuality to a gown which lifts U Immediately from the ranks of the ready made. .. Rows of narrow black velvet ribbon adorned with tiny gilt spangles Is a favorite garniture for winter afternoon gowns. - - . - -. , , , Light gra, English frleses or Scotch homespuns are the correct style zor tne Noriouc jacjcei warning suits at present. - . . . ' The proper angle for the hat aigrette is lying on top of tne crown from the dsck toward tne front, not standing in military fashion, as formerly.- ; A vest of embroidery in blues or duU orange linen Is ex ceedingly effective and smart for a bias voile gown. A gold tissue belt, collar and cuffs studded with jet beads, was the incongruous, yet very exclusive, finish upon the mink coat worn recently by a very swagger woman. Jaunty Jacket in Bro vn Furs W. Young Matron's Gown th.- . . j 1. a , l i .... I . ' r :"', ie'i For a young matron a charming gown Is ot light gfay crepe de chine over white silk. The skirt Is trimmed with lace medallions of gray lace, and the whlte underneath la dimly seen, The skirt Is untrlmmed, save for the medal lions, but, the waist Is made entirely of the lace Whit chiffon Is fulled in for a vest and tjte same soft material makes the updersleeves. " The upper ones am of the lace and end full and flowiag at the elbow. A big black velvet bat goes with this costume. It ba. a long waving plume , ,n7.nd7hw tZ kwui me viuwii, r- l January. LOOKING AT PICTURES. . . Just what la it that eomei to pass when you read longfellow's "Hiawatha T" You look at a page of white paper covered with little marks of black Ink-that Is all. And yet, somehow, through looking at those black marks, put there by a printing press miles away, you come to ahape In your own mind the thoughts that Longfellow had forty years ago about the Ufa experi ences of the primitive American people You reproduce Longfellow's vivid Imagin ings by meana of your own Imagination. A similar marvel comes, to pass when you. look at a photograph or other print or any gooa. picture. -A picture full of incident, and dramatic action like this la naturally to be af.lied largely for Ha "story." Hut not ail pic tures are plcturee of nrlttent and action. We aometlmea make the mistake of as suming that the one purpose of a picture Is to Imitate the appearance of people and things to show jmt "how they look.'' This is indeed rranKi.v tne cniei purpose of many plcturea to which we are espec ially attached ordinary photographic por traits of our friends, ordinary photo graph representations of houses where wo nave uvea or oi oiner places wun which we have intlmace, personal associ ations. In such caaes the picture Is usually simply a substitute for the actual person or for the actual place. We think of it as such, and do not question whether tbe picture, aa a, pictiye, la a tWng of beauty or not. Art does not strictly speaking, en ter into the question at all. But in tne nne an proaucea oy a man o. real genius . the picture e imitation or the appearance of certain particular things is only a part of its purpose. The best, pictures are a great deal more, in addition to being reminders of how real tmngs look. Just what Is this "more?" Let us consider. What is it tnat pleases us so much In the old song, "Annie Xau riet" It ia. of cburse. not at all the bare fact that the author of 'the familiar words was fond of a nice girl over at the ether side of the Atlantic a' great many years ago. We never think of that particular Scotchman to whom he Was -devoted. What we do care for Is the feeling of loy alty, the sweetneas of the sound oi the s.mple verse, and, above all, for the haunt. Ing loveliness or the melody that is wed ded to the verses. It Is just the -everlast ing beauty of that old song which gives it such a warm place. In our hearts. Now what Is true or the arts of noetry and muslo Is true of the art of drawing and painting as well. The pictures that take hlch rank as nne art are almost In-, variably beautiful In -themselves, over and above our Interest in what they represent. ' Just aa poetry and muslo give keen de light to the ear that knows how to hear, ao lines and shnixs and tones and kr can give- keen delight to the eye that knows how to see. The true artist sees beauty which the rest of us pass by blindly.It la hta gift and . privilege to show us his complete way of seeing Pictures, Velvet Reception Gown ' Right royal in Its combination Is a reception gown of velvet and ermine. The gown is more violet than purple in tone, and has four narrow bands of delicate white fur upon the full round skirt. On the bottom of the skirt Is a bias frill six Inches deep, and the fur is four inches apart. The close-fitting Jacket has double capes, each edged with the ermine, and so are the full flowing sleeves. A big muff of the royal fur is to be carried with the cos tume, and a Hiring hat of black lace will complete It. This Is worn well off front the face und the crown is surrounded with a fieavy plume. Great Coats Worn by. Fair Automobi lists Up-to-Date Waffc is a Lono Stride. What the up-to-date girl lsaow giving hw attention to Is her walk. She has opened her eyes to too (act that the . most pronounced defect of form or feature can do po mora to mar her than an awkward or unstylish walk, and real ising that this matter He entirely within her own control, she very wisely sets her wits to work, and by study and practice she bas learned and Is learning to walk. The ' walk of to-day Is the stride of strength. The steps must be long and easy, tbe chest held high, the chin up and the arms relaxed.. The springy, bouncing effect baa been set aside. She now puts her foot down in a firm, unqualified way that signifies decision and no nonsense.- She steps , with deliberation and apparent lastnees, but la making j ber long steps sha swings her leg' forward from tbe hip I. so as to carry her easily and swiftly over the ground. She 4 never appears hurried, no matter how rapidly she walks, and yet sh gets there far sooner than .she aver did la the days ofjher many mincing steps. : - The attempt at the athletlo walk when aot properly done haa very grotesque results. It Is the conscientious ef- fort ot every normal wpman to walk smartly and accord ing to prevailing fashion, but the athletlo walk la perilous ly easy to parody and quite difficult to acquire. One mat- v ter should be constantly borne In mind, and that Is that the secret of success ilea not in the length of the stride so much as In the proper swing of the hip. There appears to be a prevalent impression that the length of the step should be curbed only by the. width of the skirt, and the obvious strain of stretching Jwyond one's natural limitations ao- pears both ludicrous and pathetic: To get the correct swing from the hip you should practice a few exercises In your room. The first thing to learn la to make as little effort as possible and center the action altogether at the hip. The muscles of tbe legs should not be tense, but easy and relaxed, and the motion should ba altogether avmnathetic and resnonsive to the action at the hip. Try to remember that the more haste the less speed, and never allow yourself to be so hurried as to let tne muscie oi your legs become tense In walking. It only impedes your nrnmu. interrunta the flow of motion from your nip to .. your foot and results in a gait that is disastrously, awk- t ward. ' The poise of the body and manner of Holding tm) cneer, are other matters of mighty Import in the making ot a ... walk. It Is no longer correct to tilt your; .body slightly forward when welkin. You should hold yourself aa straight as an Indian, sq that a plumb line dropped from between your shoulders would lau at your neeis. a our chest ehould be held ujirand out, so that a straight line, dropped- from it to the floor would fall several inches be vond the tins of your toes. The position and development of the chest is essential to the- carriage and the; smart athletic walk. . , ' 1 , me Chinchilla Ever Becoming r In mink and sealskin a jaunty-coat was recently fash ioned. The Jacket is short and tho double-breasted fronts ire a trine loose. Jhe Jacket Itself ia made of the ever- sopular sealskin, white the wide rpv-prs end crtllur-are of I i f ii . -"- Air. s s r ru va I ' ' ' , J 1 i k i - - 4 a?- . y T f-:-:'-!.'? V i r: t w- sv;t v V ; ' f . 3 " t S V " ' 1 L - X- :.'Jtv.'.',".:J.--. J-.-:v s, .: ' . .... ' H V ? ' 1 ! vs . , lis :yb'i 11 r it -4 Si-ii ,-- . ... y o Am. n ( i ' For the natJ or matron with en
