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' BY WINIFRED OUTER. : ; '
' Such a mingling of Oriental nJagnlflcence
and Farlslaa dalnUnea! WI Qulnlan on
' the one id, dainty, petite and vivacious;
Nia Serri on the othtr, Blender, wllowy
snd composed. The .lovely Wue gewn
worn by Mlas BarH"' In "Th Sultan of
Kulu," with Ua heavily embroidered skirt
and full soft sleeves of lace, la a Joy to
look at, The long, graoeful line ara per.
Mirrored . by
feet. With every movement It fall Into
new and beautiful fold. The hat worn
Well over the pretty face. ta soft Plume
curling over the brim, la exUremely be
coming to Mine Berrt a girlish prettlneas.
The way aba weara U Is enough to mane
tlja soul of woman green with envy. It
I. one of thoaa fluffy, aoft things that
rem to have nd begtnnlngsnd "f!:
ghlrrlnge and puffs aud ruffles. It CnM
epaquathHiH W4 thin, every poeslul aadj
Mlie Berrt evidently has a great effen
Hon for ' beads. She wear them with
ropes and stranrie and twists. They go
many times round her neck, and they
hang below her kneed. Her dainty white
frot'k, with Its garniture of roaes.-is a
great contreit to the a I molt barbarlq dla
play. Not ao imposing In her style la
Mia Qulnlan, but surely there never was
a daintier person with her dancing and
graceful gestures, her ruffles and fringes.
With every swish of her saucy aklrte sha
displays a bewildering- maaa of ruffle,
"thrills and frill.'' aa someone called
them.' Iff r rhenllle overdress Is a mar
Vwl lit softness and rlchnetts. It fits the
lithe HtUa Hgure to perfection. The clus
ters of vlvld-bued blossoms worn over
tb ears ara Just the risb kind of finish
to the Oriental costume, la'" thf"
all in all. these "BulUn of Bulu,r tnaJd-
ena ara very dainty ttd attractive young
persona.
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0wm oi Bla Crepe.
Geld Paillette ad Apricot f Ilk.
Oreea Fa VeWet amd Piak Chiffon.
Black Ckeallle Over Oreea.
WWte gatla Wltk IUtv laaaslea. t
, In the Feminine Worfd- .
Aa the season grows older It bocomea more evident that
this is an era or trimmings, braids, tassela, eequlne, but
tons, folds, bias bands, embroidery and laces. ---; " ;
Roses, made of chiffon, arranged on streamers of net
hanging from the sleeves and blouse, were a striking feat
ure of a very modish gown worn lately.
Collars are omftted, on many gowns and wraps to suit
the prevailing' erase for flat neck effects, narrow bands of
embroidery being' substituted. t V -
A facing of black bebe ribbon was the no vet trimming
effect joining the upper and lower parts of a fur collar
that came from a very smart furrier.
The mid-season hats, especially designed for wear at so
cial functions, show some fairly ravishing color tones
most artistically blended. ,
Picturesque effects, with any quantity of lace and em
broidery, are most prominent among the fashionable tea
gowns and negligees.
While slbeline is very fashionable this winter, smartly
gowned women do not use the exaggerated long-haired
kind. .
One of fashion's favored maxims this year is that trim
. ming is never too profuse if governed by good taste.
There seems to. be a slight revival of the box-pleated
skirt back, as quite a number are on view in the shops.
The low coiffure is the smartest for the street, to accom
modate the fiat, drooping bats so popular now.
Fine white net is an innovation for bridal gowns that
promises to be very popular witn briaes.
The really smart tailor walking skirt has never a circu
lar flounre aa a foot finish.
i Bunchy or fluffy neckwear la tfulte passe; flatness alone
prevails. .
A little handwork gives an individuality to a gown
which lifts U Immediately from the ranks of the ready
made. ..
Rows of narrow black velvet ribbon adorned with tiny
gilt spangles Is a favorite garniture for winter afternoon
gowns. - - . - -. , , ,
Light gra, English frleses or Scotch homespuns are the
correct style zor tne Noriouc jacjcei warning suits at
present. - . . . '
The proper angle for the hat aigrette is lying on top of
tne crown from the dsck toward tne front, not standing
in military fashion, as formerly.- ;
A vest of embroidery in blues or duU orange linen Is ex
ceedingly effective and smart for a bias voile gown.
A gold tissue belt, collar and cuffs studded with jet
beads, was the incongruous, yet very exclusive, finish upon
the mink coat worn recently by a very swagger woman.
Jaunty Jacket in Bro vn Furs
W.
Young Matron's Gown
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For a young matron a charming gown Is ot light gfay
crepe de chine over white silk. The skirt Is trimmed with
lace medallions of gray lace, and the whlte underneath la
dimly seen, The skirt Is untrlmmed, save for the medal
lions, but, the waist Is made entirely of the lace Whit
chiffon Is fulled in for a vest and tjte same soft material
makes the updersleeves. " The upper ones am of the lace
and end full and flowiag at the elbow. A big black velvet
bat goes with this costume. It ba. a long waving plume , ,n7.nd7hw tZ
kwui me viuwii, r- l January.
LOOKING AT PICTURES. .
. Just what la it that eomei to pass when
you read longfellow's "Hiawatha T" You
look at a page of white paper covered with
little marks of black Ink-that Is all. And
yet, somehow, through looking at those
black marks, put there by a printing press
miles away, you come to ahape In your
own mind the thoughts that Longfellow
had forty years ago about the Ufa experi
ences of the primitive American people
You reproduce Longfellow's vivid Imagin
ings by meana of your own Imagination.
A similar marvel comes, to pass when
you. look at a photograph or other print
or any gooa. picture.
-A picture full of incident, and dramatic
action like this la naturally to be af.lied
largely for Ha "story." Hut not ail pic
tures are plcturee of nrlttent and action.
We aometlmea make the mistake of as
suming that the one purpose of a picture
Is to Imitate the appearance of people
and things to show jmt "how they look.''
This is indeed rranKi.v tne cniei purpose
of many plcturea to which we are espec
ially attached ordinary photographic por
traits of our friends, ordinary photo
graph representations of houses where
wo nave uvea or oi oiner places wun
which we have intlmace, personal associ
ations. In such caaes the picture Is usually
simply a substitute for the actual person
or for the actual place. We think of it
as such, and do not question whether tbe
picture, aa a, pictiye, la a tWng of beauty
or not. Art does not strictly speaking, en
ter into the question at all.
But in tne nne an proaucea oy a man
o. real genius . the picture e imitation or
the appearance of certain particular
things is only a part of its purpose. The
best, pictures are a great deal more, in
addition to being reminders of how real
tmngs look. Just what Is this "more?"
Let us consider. What is it tnat pleases
us so much In the old song, "Annie Xau
riet" It ia. of cburse. not at all the bare
fact that the author of 'the familiar words
was fond of a nice girl over at the ether
side of the Atlantic a' great many years
ago. We never think of that particular
Scotchman to whom he Was -devoted.
What we do care for Is the feeling of loy
alty, the sweetneas of the sound oi the
s.mple verse, and, above all, for the haunt.
Ing loveliness or the melody that is wed
ded to the verses. It Is just the -everlast
ing beauty of that old song which gives
it such a warm place. In our hearts.
Now what Is true or the arts of noetry
and muslo Is true of the art of drawing
and painting as well. The pictures that
take hlch rank as nne art are almost In-,
variably beautiful In -themselves, over and
above our Interest in what they represent. '
Just aa poetry and muslo give keen de
light to the ear that knows how to hear,
ao lines and shnixs and tones and kr
can give- keen delight to the eye that
knows how to see. The true artist sees
beauty which the rest of us pass by
blindly.It la hta gift and . privilege to
show us his complete way of seeing
Pictures,
Velvet Reception Gown
' Right royal in Its combination Is a reception gown of
velvet and ermine. The gown is more violet than purple
in tone, and has four narrow bands of delicate white fur
upon the full round skirt. On the bottom of the skirt Is
a bias frill six Inches deep, and the fur is four inches
apart. The close-fitting Jacket has double capes, each
edged with the ermine, and so are the full flowing sleeves.
A big muff of the royal fur is to be carried with the cos
tume, and a Hiring hat of black lace will complete It. This
Is worn well off front the face und the crown is surrounded
with a fieavy plume.
Great Coats Worn by. Fair Automobi lists
Up-to-Date Waffc is a Lono Stride.
What the up-to-date girl lsaow giving hw attention to
Is her walk. She has opened her eyes to too (act that the .
most pronounced defect of form or feature can do po mora
to mar her than an awkward or unstylish walk, and real
ising that this matter He entirely within her own control,
she very wisely sets her wits to work, and by study and
practice she bas learned and Is learning to walk. The '
walk of to-day Is the stride of strength. The steps must be
long and easy, tbe chest held high, the chin up and the
arms relaxed.. The springy, bouncing effect baa been set
aside. She now puts her foot down in a firm, unqualified
way that signifies decision and no nonsense.- She steps ,
with deliberation and apparent lastnees, but la making j
ber long steps sha swings her leg' forward from tbe hip I.
so as to carry her easily and swiftly over the ground. She 4
never appears hurried, no matter how rapidly she walks,
and yet sh gets there far sooner than .she aver did la the
days ofjher many mincing steps. : -
The attempt at the athletlo walk when aot properly
done haa very grotesque results. It Is the conscientious ef-
fort ot every normal wpman to walk smartly and accord
ing to prevailing fashion, but the athletlo walk la perilous
ly easy to parody and quite difficult to acquire. One mat- v
ter should be constantly borne In mind, and that Is that
the secret of success ilea not in the length of the stride so
much as In the proper swing of the hip. There appears to
be a prevalent impression that the length of the step should
be curbed only by the. width of the skirt, and the obvious
strain of stretching Jwyond one's natural limitations ao-
pears both ludicrous and pathetic: To get the correct
swing from the hip you should practice a few exercises
In your room. The first thing to learn la to make as little
effort as possible and center the action altogether at the
hip. The muscles of tbe legs should not be tense, but
easy and relaxed, and the motion should ba altogether
avmnathetic and resnonsive to the action at the hip. Try
to remember that the more haste the less speed, and never
allow yourself to be so hurried as to let tne muscie oi
your legs become tense In walking. It only impedes your
nrnmu. interrunta the flow of motion from your nip to ..
your foot and results in a gait that is disastrously, awk- t
ward. '
The poise of the body and manner of Holding tm) cneer,
are other matters of mighty Import in the making ot a ...
walk. It Is no longer correct to tilt your; .body slightly
forward when welkin. You should hold yourself aa
straight as an Indian, sq that a plumb line dropped from
between your shoulders would lau at your neeis. a our
chest ehould be held ujirand out, so that a straight line,
dropped- from it to the floor would fall several inches be
vond the tins of your toes. The position and development
of the chest is essential to the- carriage and the; smart
athletic walk. . , ' 1
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Chinchilla Ever Becoming
r In mink and sealskin a jaunty-coat was recently fash
ioned. The Jacket is short and tho double-breasted fronts
ire a trine loose. Jhe Jacket Itself ia made of the ever-
sopular sealskin, white the wide rpv-prs end crtllur-are of I
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