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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 3, 1922)
THE SUNDAY OREGONIAX. PORTLAND, DECE3IBER 3,'. 1922 attractive and with the first I would suggest the use of your buttons, if not too large, as a. trim on the vest of lace and if large as a motif on the pretty collar outlined with a band of the red. Should you use the second model named trim the front panel and the front sides with tne buttons, which are always effective as a skirt trimming-. Numbers given appear in the winter quarterly. LADY LISBURNE IS SELECTED AS ONE OF MOST BEAUTIFUL WOMEN IN WORLD Famous English Photographer Chooses Wife of Earl Lisburne First Woman Civil Service Commissioner 1 Denies There Is Any Discrimination Against Women in Service. . " . assrcV v ' -i , - - ' - - - - . J A I - ' ' I 1A: 7jZ SNn"" j . ' A ill, - - :V r , y rSff, ""Tktf -rp ;Jl -rl A PORTRAIT of Mrs. Warren G. Harding, painted by the cele brated European artist and portrait painter, Lazzlo, at the "White House in July of last year, is said to be President Harding's fa vorite painting. It has recently been photographed. A famous English artist-photographer has selected Lady LiBburne as one of the most beautiful women In the world. Lady Lisburne is the wifo of Earl Lisburne, formerly Re eina. daughter of Ion Julio de Bet- tincourt. attache to the Chilean le- country, using 700.000 employes in gation in London. . Mrs. Helen H Gardner, first womwn ever appointed as a civil service commissioner. In reply to statements emanating from national woman's party agitators has de clared that there is no discrimina tion against women by .'the United States civil service commission. Mrs. Gardner holds one of the important jobs held by a woman in the nation al administration, conducting the biggest -employment agency in the Uncle Sam's service. Miss Madeline Loomis has been associate editor with the late Sen ator Thomas E. Watson of Georgia in publishing his newspapers and magazines. When Senator Watson came -to the senate. Miss Loomis became his assistant and managed his .affairs almost entirely during his latter days of ill health.. A large portipn of ths senator's estate was left to Miss Loomis and his widow is -contesting this, portion of her husband's will. CLATSKANIB. Or., Nov. 24. Dear Madam Bichet: I have keen reading your columns of Tht' Sunday Oresommn and get o much help that I thought I would come to you for advice. 1 have 7 yards or gooas hko nmip which I wish to make into a suit. Afler laying my pattern correctly on the goods I I find I have more than I need, but not euough for a dresa. I hafO X yards left. Would you please tell me what kind and color of goods to get to go , with it, and please suggest a way to make it. Am 5 feet inches, light hair, blue eyes, weight 113, age 19, and lots of color. - I also have six yards or burnt orange velveteen which I would like to make into a. dreae. but don't know how to go at it, aa this material is only 21 inchea wide. And I have ;four yards of narrow wale corduroy, color gray, width 38 inches. I wish you would advise me as how to make this. I wish to have them made so I can wear them on any occasion. Hoping I have not asked to much and thanking you for ali advice, I am yours truly, MRS. R. iL MRS. R. H., Clatskanie. Or. It will be a. case of nip and tuck, but with a faced hem I believe that you can follow the model in the But- terick Quarterly for winter, page 22, No. 3898. Having mucn coior wftii "n well eniov the fir or emer ald green which combines beauti fully with your brown material. would select a canton crepe as the texture seems best suited to the brpwn. Rather than . the buttons as a side trim have the band em broidered in the brown, henna, red and blacki Under this band can be the . snappers which will fasten the blouse. The sleeve and collar can be embroidered in the same way and so carry out the Russian line of style. The burnt orange velveteen is noi a dress which you can wear on all occasions and l wouta suggest uii you make it for a dinner of in formal evening gown. With your tall figurs and proportions jn gen eral I cannot "see" anything else for you than the gown shown on the cover design fit the Pictorial Review's winter quarterly. No. 1371. Have the silver net inset run in the 'chenille, matching your velveteen. The peck can be made lower and the sleeves shorter, should you care for that line. The seams in the skirt will not greatly detract from the graceful line. Face the sleeves with the silver cloth and under the Rilver net Inset hava a' strip of light ordfedf satin, which as it lights throug.h the net will be really beau tiful. You can have a real "crea tion" if you happen to see it as I do; " The gray corduroy will make up stunningly and I think you are very fortunate to have so many nice materials with which to make three dresses. In the December Designer you will see on page 78, TCo. 4057, which will lend itself perfectly to the material you have. Combine with 'a blouse of the sand gray hav ing a chiffon broadcloth " for the material. Then choose an allover design for machine embroidery and have it done in the ra'.s-tail braid and the silver metalic thread. This will make a wonderful frock. Should you find that your material runs too short for the panels as shown I would suggest that as a very smart seheme; you have the lett front one of your broadeloth and embroidered, which will serve as a sash end as well as the panel. Dear Madam Rlchet:I have a skirt of ery dark copper, or brown, which I would like to combine with some other material to make into a maternity gown for thi las four months. T wish it in be very pretty, but not for parties, only aiiernoona ana evenings w'tn our clement of friends: The skirt ieln seven section?, is 40 inches long and two yards all the way around, five sections are wide, and two narrow. I am g feet inches tall, brown hair and eyes. 40 bust, good color and clear skin, aged 87, J had thought of the long waist and a gathered skirt but I see the skirt is long enough to make up empire style if that is used now. I haven't noticed maternity styles the last seven or eight years. 1 would like the style from Butterick, Ladies' Home Journal or Woman's Home Companion or McCall's if possible. Would you use canton crepe or crepe de chene. or would wool be better? Will deeply appreciate any help you can Rive me. c. E. D. ' ' by MadamBicKer C. E. D. Of course you want a pretty dress rand there is not a more important need at this very treasured time than the pleasing lines and colors,' people and sur rounding and so we shall do our bit to see that the dress will play its part. Jn the Butterick winter quarterly, page 21, No. 40U, you an inverted pleat or side, pleated.1"1" 1'n. very ciever gown wnicn t a b n . .,.., can easily be converted into the Tj an inset on the sides in the form of (Pontinupd From Firgt Page.) mit this use and a saving of mate rial Is so gained. I shall suggest a model and if it does pot meet the need you have, kindly write again xnd include sample. On the cover design of the Mc Call's Quarterly you will see in blue dress a charming model which will be lovely 'for a gown of the piled surface, should yours be. Trim with the fur and hand work or if you cannot have the fur use the hand work in a rather conventional line. WASCO. Or., Nov. 7. Dear Madam Itichet: You help so many with their tewing problems, perhaps you will be 60 kind as to tell me wherein mine lie. It !s thiB: In making petticoats cannot frtld a style that will not twist of bunch over the knees when worn with a full length coat. I am careful never to have them fuller than the drc.-s. Have tried poring them In two, three and four pieces: also the straight hanging slips and the readymade silk jersey. I can not see that one is better than the other, 11 do nicely without a coat except that they twist when I walk. Would like to make a slip of wool jersey, but hesitate because of thie b. A. B. A., Wascu, Or. It is a curious thing that many have the same trouble with their skirts and from oioae observation I would say that it is in the main due to two condi tions. Either the "walk"' of the wearer or the fabric with which the undergarments are made, be it slipon or knicker. If the garment over which the skirt is worn is of a knit ted material the tendency is to have tile netlh-oat "crawl," as it seems to adhere to the garment beneath md in wearing, the bunching up results. On the other hand I have known the all-silk appareled woman to have tile same problem, but in l-.er case 'twas due to her "step" and after suggesting a weight-tape which should be sewed' at the bot tom edge of the skirt she had no further trouble. Perhaps this will help you and further suggestion upon this problem I cannot give. Will be glad if our readers can. SALEM. Or., Nov. 0. Dear Madam Kichet: Perhaps to you my letter may seem a joke, but 10 me it really Is a serious problem. I am a young mother with a 13-months-old baby girl. She is walking. I want her to be well-dressed but do not know how to go about it. Have you any suggestions to give me aa to what kind of a wrap, cap, and debases she should wear? she has worn rompers since she was 6 months old. Do you advise them still? Tour work is very helpful to me as I have no one else to go to for advice. Please answer in the Sunday edition if possible. Thanking you, I am SIRS. E. A. D. Mrs. E. A. P., Salem, Or. Kind reader, be assured that your letter comes not as a joke, but that which it is, an inquiry worthy sincere con sideration, which at alt times I am ready to give each and every prob lem. For the wardrobe pf that litT tie .miss we must plan the simple and comfortable as-well as the pret ty and "tubable." The little frocks made of the wash crepes with the bit of hand work are always prac tical and cunning on the dainty weavers and the slip-on type worn with the bloomers are perhaps the best style. In the Pictorial Review's winter quarterly you will. find on page 60 several models any one of which will become your little daugh ter. I think that Nob. 1264 and 8372 are particularly good. The wrap in the cape or coat is nice of the cam-r el's hair cloth or the Bolivia, also in tan or cinnamon tone and the little cap or bonnet to match with the lit tle brim or friil lined in a becoming shade or blue or pink. Usually the salmon pink is lovely for the little folks. For Sunday, you might care to have a dotted Swiss in e, light blue with the one-piece underskirt of white nainsook and ' the flannel skirt under that. Use the Gertrude pattern and finish the edges with the scallop. The patterns as given will be correct for any of the ma terial which one would use for a child. If I can be of further help to you I shall be more than happy to serve you. - At , a low waist line join to your Uvii-i- hln f ' -. '"""Jinny euwn. I kimona . sleeve in three-quarter i length, the neck line, square or , round, to be trimmed with the blue matching your suit, using the soutache or tire heavy rope silk. The sleeves trimmed in lengthwise line with here and there an inch and a half whirl of the wooden buttons. Three on the sleeve and three at the neck line.- The girdle will be effec tive made of the braided silk or braid and finished 'with a wooden tassel. Open the blouse at shoulder and under arm ow it the back and in the latter case let the wooden buttons trim that line and serve the fastening as well. : On the jacket I would have, the collar and the cuffs of the taupe and so more closely link the entire three-piece dress. Dear' Madam Richet: I have a navy blue tricotine suit, the skirt of which 1 wish to nut on to a blouse of some sort and color. The skirt is a two-piece, front ghtly gored, and the back gathered. The front has two inset pockets at about hip' length. It is . a very narrow skirt,, measuring 61 inches around. 1 cannot walk with much comfort. I had thought of cutting off the ekirt at the pockets and using the, material to widen theirt, but found 1 could not on account of the pockets. The jacket I Intend leaving as it is so that I can wear it -with 'the skirt after I make it into a .oue-piece dress. I am 4!) years old, hair partly gray, eyes brown, and I have not much- nat ural color. Am about 3 feet 5 inches tall and weigh about 115 pounds. I look well in browns and yellow and orange. Could you please euggeat some thing In material and color for the blouse? 1 thought of henna, but won dered if It would make me look "sallow." I have some beautiful black crush plush. How would it do to set in a small panel, say four or five Inches wide, on each side of the skirt and then trim the jacket a little with it, toe? I have a scarf of same plush. My jacket is trimmed with black buttons and a little self "tucking" on pocketE. E. A. B. E. A. B., Cottage Grove.- Or. In asmuch as you wish an added blouse j for the skirt and your skirt needs widening I would suggest that you use a taupe tricotine or Jersey cloth. Have the blouse of the canton crepe in the same shade, beaded in the steel, and the pretty skirt drape lined with steel gray." The blouse can be opened at the front side and so lapped that it and the skirt can be moved to the front as shall meet the need. With the loose line blouse I think you will like it better, than empire type. There are several other styles equally interesting but they call for the same fabric. In case you should have another dress may I suggest the lovely type shown in the Mc Call fall quarterly on page 16, No. 2241. The material in a crepe de chine or in a canton would be beautiful: The long wide sleeves could be added. The high draped line is especially good. If I can be of further helD to vou jdo not hesitate writing. Dear Madam Richet: Would vnti he n kind as to give me your opinion in re gards to theefample of material inclosed for a girl's dress? She is 10 vears old lias gray eyes, light brawn curls and plenty of color. She isn't fat,' rather slim. How would you make It and trim it? This WSs an old dress of mino ht as there wasn't enough goods to make it ever for myself, I thought probably I could use It for her. I want it tnr an all around good dresa. : What color can -she I will be very grateful to vnn rn, ,ht. information. Respectfully, MRS. A. If Mrs. A. M. For an all-round school dresa 'and one' of pretty line I suggest the model shown in' the Pictorial Review for B-ecember, page 94, No. 1383. The belt and dress strips of th plain blue canton, the cellar, cuffs and pocket trim of the gray crash trimmed with the blue worsted. The fact tha.t your daugh ter has color will permit of the gray crash. The best shades for your young miss will bain the blues, greens, tans, grays and browns. , ' " SALEM. Or., Nov. J t. Dear Madam Richet: Enclosed please find sample of suit I would like to have made Into a one-piece dress for street and other com mon, occasions.' There is plenty of ma terial to make most any way; also 24 beautiful black buttons. 1 would like your 'suggestions en how to make s,n trim. I sm of a medium completion; . hazel eyes, brown : hair, weigh 10S pounds. . Measurements are: Bust, 32 inches; waist; 25 inches; hips, 35 inches. Am 5 feet tail and 24 years old. Thanking, ypu. kindly. 1 am truly yours, MRS. W. p. R. .Mrs. W. C. R.,'SaIeni, Or. Tou do not mention the width of your skirt dui il it ib miia antiv wiue you might like copying the model shown in the Pictorial Review, page 19,-No. 1336. If on the other hand the skirt is rather narrow then yeu will find a happy solution to your problem in the dress pictured tn the same issue, page 26,' No. 1296, combining with the lovely blue broadcloth you have the henna underdrop "and the same shrinking either before combining shade for the vest, slits and the with the skirt you now have. Have sleeve trim. Either model will be PORTLAND. Nov. 24., Dear Madam Richet: I can't afford a. con t-hi. and thought of making a cape. Are they kuuu ci.vib una year ana IE so. what kind of material would you suggest us ing? I have some nice bnwn fur that I can use for collar. I am verv lnrier and a cape is becoming. Thank you kind- Mtts. a, is. n, MRS. B. E. R. The capes seem to have found a permanent place in the fashion world, so much so that the furriers are showing their hand somest models in the caped line. For materials there are raanv. such marvelaine, b o 1 i v i a, panvelaine. KHnna ciotn, Droadclotn. cashmere velour, prellaine, poiret twill, serge and camel's cloth, the three latterly namea Deing tne most serviceable for every day and sill occassions wear. In the winter quarterly of the Butterick you will find on page 48, No. 4073 such a charming model and should It seem too full' for what you have in mind then con sider the style No. 3566 on the same page. Either will look well with your fur collar, which will add greatly to the appearance of the wrap. Were you not fortunate to have the fur which is always such a magic touoh to any garment? ' mcnei: i nave a navy blue French serge dreess that X wish to make over. It is a one-piece slip-over style with long, narrow sleevea. trimmed around neck and bottom of skirt with tan worsted embroidery which I wish to re move. It is 42-inch bust and is too long for me. I am nursing a small baby. I am S feet 5 inches tall, weigh 150 pounds, measure ments, bust 40, waistline 30, hipa 40 base) eyes, copper-colored hair, white complexion; am 28 years old. I have no way of obtaining a fashion magazine, so could you explain a simple way to remodel and trim, in your col umn? COUNTRY WIFE Country Wife, Clifton, Or. With the skirt too long I would1 line it up to the desired length, which should not be more than eight inches from the floor- line and then for your waist have a narrow vest of ecru lace where to the side are placed the snappers so that you can easily open when nursing your little one. 19 That's What I'll Give Her! WHAT better gift could you give her than free dom from youth-destroying drudgery of housecleaning more hours for relaxation and' play ? What gift would better fit the present day spirit of useful giving? What would gladden her heart like'an eledrie vacuum cleaner, which will mean more time for pleasurable ; pursuits.the saving of prized household possessions from the ravages of dust and dirt, and greater health and hap piness in her home? Why not give her a use ful, practical present this year a tireless ele&rical cleaning servant that works at the cost of a few cents a week .andis always ready! Why not insure her aspic, span house without the muss and, fuss and back-breaking toil of eternaf sweeping, beating and dusting ? -J- You can do it with the electric vacuum cleaner,. Any dealer or your lighting company will demonstrate this indispensable house hold labor-saver to you. , Furthermore, if you tele phone, or call in person im mediately, they'll put your purchase, aside for Christ mas delivery. Buy it now! Have it for her Christmas morning! It is the gift of a lifetime for a lifetime 1 In the "Good Old. Days" everyone used tallow candles to read by and willow-switch brooms to sweep with. Today homes glow with light from incandescent, bulbs and shine with cleanliness easily maintained by the electric , vacuum cleaner. Think back to those ''Good Old Pays." Their needless drudgery has been banished forever by Electricity, The Burden Bearer. More conve nience outlets in your home will lift even more of your present day burdens. Think it over! Then think " of your electric light and power company that makes it possible. Banish Dirt and D"st With its handy attacliments, your electric vacuum cleaner removes alj filth and dirt from tufted upholstery and mattress. It also aerates pillows. Slit your sleeves as far as the elbow and add a flared strip and then line this free portion with a henna can ton. Let the collar be of the henna and on the edges of the blouse front as they line the vest have a row of small henna buttons.- The girdle of your material cut in strips and braided ending at the left side front with a rosette of th henna canton. The one-piece line is so good that I would not advise having a seam' of joining between the blouse and skirt.. A good steaming will remove the marks left by the worsted embroidery. Dear Madam Rlcftet: I have a brown eharmeuse and lace dress, like sketch, which I want to make over into a long waist effect for day wear. There isn't enough material as it is, and I am ask ing your advice. The lace -is 32 inches deep, embroidered a little more than half wav ud. and it is 1 yards lone. The lace in the sleeves and underarm pieces is badly worn and cannot be use a again. The foundation skirt is 35. inches long and measures 3 yards at bottom, but as it is fitted at waistline it Is too small at top to be used above as the skirt. Can it be properly combined with velvet? I also have a blue pussywillow taffeta like sample, made like sketch. This also I want to make into a newiine dress. There is plenty of material . in the skirt and tunic but almost nothing in the waist which can be used. This dress if for my daughter who is 20 years old. light hair, gray eyes, plenty of color and 5 feet a inches tall, wejgnt pounds. Her complexion is not very good but she wears this shade of blue nicely. The brown dress is for myself, 1 am 5 feet 7 inches tail. 45 years old, brown hair, gray eyes and weight 14o pounds. I hope I am not taking more than my share of your valuable time, and I assure you I shall appreciate whatever help you can give me. Thanking you. I am very truly yours, BETTY. 'Betty, Chehalis, Wash. Tou may not at all agree with me upon the suggestion I am going to make, but I am ure that, your dress will be a very stunning affair if you do. Have the waist of gold cloth and at a low waist line join your ehar meuse, using your lovely lace in the same line as you now have it, but slightly draped -at the left side. Match the brown net of your lace and have it over the gold cloth of the blouse, gathering it slightly at the neck. The net sleeves can be made long and in the kimona type, the gold cloth made with the draped shoulder-cap sleeve. Wear at the low waist line a twisted gir dle of the gold and brown, ending with a flat gold rose or a bunch of the red and gold roses. For your daughter I would like the model in the Butterick quarter ly, page 35, No. 3919, With what you say regarding the amount of silk in the skirt I am hoping that the selected design will meet your pleasure. Have the panels, sleeves, collar and cuffs of the smoke gray georgette beaded inthe iridescent blue beads matching your material of taffeta. The tunic should make the blouse and cap sleeve. This is such an attractive dress when on, and with the lovely blue you will have a very attractive frock. Hope the selections made will find a ready place in your wardrobes. Dear Madam Richet: I have a one piece dress like inclosed sample, but it is so faded and skirt is too narrow through hips. What color would you suggest having it dyed a,nd could you plan a new dress of this? Will get any new ma terial that you may suggest if you think there is not enough of the old. Am 45 years old, weigh 175. height 5 feet 6 inches, brown eyes, brown hair, very gray in front, bust 42, waist 32, hips 37, very fair. WQuid also like to have you plan a dress for schoel wear of the green and blue plaid eerge. The plaited skirt is of two widths each 45 inches wide and 31 inches long. The waist is plain, back one piece, 15 inches long, front two pieces, closing in center front, has sailor collar and trimmed with three rows of white silk braid, has long set-in sleeves, but tbey are worn some at elbow. This dress is for a 17-year-old girl, weight 112, brown hair, blue eyes, me dium fair; no coior, oust hj., waist n, hips 36. MRS. Jl, Mrs. A. Tnank you for the "snap" which is always a help in planning the garment required. Dye your jersey a dark blue and then combine with a good quality ef black messaline, using the latter for the drop sfefirt, vest, blouse, slits iand sleeves, which can be slit and made to have the wider line. Your edges on the jersey could be bound i with the black messaline and then trimmed in regular intervals with the little wooden buttons in a Copenhagen blue or taupe. The ends of the narrow girdle would be ef fective finished with tassels made of the buttons held in form with strand of the black rope silk. Kindly see the winter quarterly of the Pic torial Review, page 20, No. 1296. That your daughter may have a complete change in the line of her dress I would have you copy the model nn nacA AS. Nn. ?.fifl Ramnvft the pleats from the skirt and make new sleeves from the material not needed in the skirt's width. Have the blouse front and sash in one, as pictured, using a blue taf feta as pear in match to the blue in plaid as you can get, and the collar and cuffs of the white or tan lineri crash hemstitched in the blue. A pretty velvet ribbon with the green tone as shown in the same will complete the color scheme and be very attractive as well as charm ingly youthful. UN! DYE JT W FOR 15c Skirts Waists Coats Dresses Kimonas Curtains Sweaters Coverings Draperies Stockings Ginghams Everything Buy "Diamond Dyes' no other kind and follow the simple direc tions in every package. . Don't wonder whether you can dye or tint successfully, because perfect home dyeing is guaranteed with Diamond Dyes, even if you have never dyed before. ' Juet tell your druggist whether the material you wish to dye is wool or silk, or whether it is linen, cotton, or any mixed goods. Diamond Dyes never otreak, spot, fade or run. Adv.