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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 8, 1922)
mttmt Women, Churches, Books, Schools and Features SECTION FIVE VOL. XLI PORTLAND. OREGON SUNDAY MORNIXGr, OCTOBER 8, 1922 XO. 1 1 SKIRTS OF LATEST SEPTEMBER STYLES LET DOWN DECIDEDLY . ., . - ; " - ' - - i ... i w... I, . .-, .,-,.,,-,- T-gn Popular Costumes for Street Wear now Tailored Frock. With Tailored Hat and Tiny Fur Neckpiece Another Graceful Frock Style Shows Long-Waisted Jacket-Blouse Fastening With Wide lielt at Hip. LAST YEAR and the year before that you and I migrht have come home from the country in mid-September and have felt perfectly presentable in our spring tailor-made or frock, and indeed have counted on those wearables fresh and in good condition from a long Bummer sojourn at the back of the wardrobe while we wore our moun tain or shore clothes for wear until time to take fur coats out of cold storage. But not this year! You and I, coming out of the railroad terminal with our bags and bunches of country wildflowers and seashore bayberry, hastily step into taxi's at glimpse of the women in new autumn costumes. You know the nursery rhyme about the little old woman who lay down by the stile on her wey to market and fell asleep; and some rude boys came along and in joke cut off her'petti coats. - Her clacking consternation as she sped homeward Is matched by the home-coming woman who, after her summer out of town, be holds all femininity in city streets in the new long skirts. So the first thing one must pro Tide, in order to look smart and correct for September appearance' in the city streets is a new long drees. The shops are full of them at prices- ranging from ?20 to $50 and it is surprising hdw smart the lower-priced models are. Lines seem to be equally good In $25 frocks and in those at twice that price; but, of course, in the better models one pays for superlative material. The popular street costume for September and early October days" now seems to be a tailored frock, worn with a tailored hat and a tiny fur neckpiece. The smaller the fur collar the better its tyle, and some . of the. new marten neckpieces are ft mere string of peltry with a little tail at one end. This costume of frock, hat and neckpiece is pre ferred to a new suit, and autumn cults have not nearly as large a sale as they used to have in Sep tember. Women seem content now adays to wait for suits until snappy days of late October and November and then select a warm suit that will alternate with the fur wrap worn on very cold winter days. The prevailing frock seems to be of one mode;, a-draped skirt with the drapery descending at one or both sides below the hem line so that the .skirt clings and drapes eoftly about the ankles; a long walsted bodice and sleeves , either loose and slashed or snug to the wrist. Usually there is a bright buckle or clasp at one side of the frock at the hip, and sometimes a tassel falls from the ornamental belt clasp. These frocks are black, blue and brown but brown In a dark shade called mocha is most fashionable for fall. In hats there are a dozen brown models to one black one. Another graceful frock style a large crown and slanting brim cut across at the back in a narrower line, but wide and Bhading the - face to the front. ' This hat - is rather shows the long-waisted Jacket- picturesque and is very becoming to blouse fastening with a wide, flat Bomo faces, but It lacks something belt at the hip. and worn over an of da8h and smartness and is a instep-length skirt of very narrow happier choice as a summer sport pleats, not accordion pleats, but hat than as a model in veivet or felt liat, even knife pleats half an inch for cold-weather wear. wide. A model of the sort has skirt of dark brown pleated crepe and a jacket-blouse of brown and gold broche material, slashed down the front and with a roll-back collar simulating the small middy collar on summer blouses of linen. The blouse fits at the hips into a flat belt about four inches wide and fastening at the left side with a dull gold clasp. Though Paris insists upon brown as the new shade, Jenny, who makes such alluring clothes that she can please herself about colors, sticks to her favorite navy blue, and some of the autumn street frocks from this house are engag ing made of very dark blue rep cloth, thinner than serge, yet with its lustrous supple texture, and trimmed with rows o glistening fcound at e(Jge w,th b'rown yel. cire braid. One of these street dresses from Jenny is of navy rep cloth with black cire braid having a celophane center thread, and the sparkling braid borders the skirt, the slanting overskirt and the neck line; and bands the snug, long jmagn BlDOCa fclCL ecu ciuuw auu wnsL. The overskirt falls to the skirt hem at one side and slants up above the knees at the other side. Bodice and overskirt open down the back at 6lanthave to be carefully studied the extreme left, and the opening is outlined from shoulder to knee by rows of braid. A new Paris frock material called cross-bar velours has drawnwork or hemsltiching going both across the fabric in lines about eight inches apart, the pattern forming a big plaid on the material. Frocks of this cross-bar velours are very simply made up, in long draped hatB of veIvet and for early autumn lines and with bodice flat at back wear with your tailored frock or and front to show the pattern of the Buit you cannot do better than t0 material. Belect one ot the medium sized One used to rush, first of all. for blocke(i felt hats trimmed with a a new hat. in order to have the Bmart bow or with a graceful correct autumn appearance, but this I6ather ornament. Here C9810) is a year a new long frock is so lmpera- particularly good looking model of tive a need that hats are being left terra cotta felt with the large crown to second choice. The longer frock and narrow. mushroom brim now acquired, it becomes evident that a fancleli and a lonK Bweeping un different sort of hat is necessary. cur.ed Ieather in the warm terra too. The very small, saucy turban cotta shade. Is not quite in proportion, worn i w .s1- kw .'. - M f '. .' -,vf i i' ' f hi "r ' iniinejpi iimii n i MMi.iii..o i t wnni iumtwiirniwiri n rr hy ; J. if r . . - - t y - j" i. : . 3 V 1 "-:'f Vva; 'T ' -- : . a i : :msMm$iim? ,,:,-,:: r , ;' t : :1 : ; ... ' .... ...... , 96ui 1 1 . i !'.:' s: . ' . t , ' 1 . ' i ' . , . . .. . -. .... , , . - .. "i it. ( . i,.-,.' ... : j ' i ' ' , , : . :. -. W:-'1:-.'. .-... III f. . i - ' 1 III . 1 . " " 1 ' ... . . . . Bows, of course, on 'the new; fall hats you cannot have missed them if you have s been a day in town! Big, dashing bows of ribbon, of satin or moire silk slanted across hats of felt and of velvet. " Bows at the front or the back, or at what might be termed the southeast, be tween back and side. If you. do not fancy a bow you may have a swirl of coq around a small hat, the feath ers in shades of brown, rust and orange. The smart tailored hat has a soft outline this fall an effect, not easy to achieve by home talent, , for the combination of tailored lines with softness demands expert skill.'- The hat pictured (8793) is of a tangerine duvetyn with a large square crown vet. Coq in shades of brown, 'tan gerineTrnd orange is massed around the hat, tumbling over the brim, and the whole effect is soft, becoming and very smart Indeed. , There is more art than you would until you have tried it in making the big, dashing bows of Bilk or velvet that give such style to simple little autumn headgear. The location of the bow and its . . 1 T 1 .4 lib. u..thl, artttt td sash oa lu It ta Dot atruiirht-UM Mabel For your seriie drras I would suggest the use of embroi dered bands done in the worsted, using the black, green, red and cop per combinations. Let the two hands which deacend from the mid dle of the front neck be ail lncha long, the next two, one on either de. eiirht inches, and the third and last, which should start from the shoulder line, descend to the walat llne. Have them an inch wide and adjust your distances to even spaces. Treat the back In the same way; the edjse of :eev should have Just one band. Remove the lace ruffle now on the dress and wear oft rruah a-lrdia of black satin. Should your akirt be too ahort. then let the aatin act aa a connecting band, dropping the skirt to the lower edge and bringing the walat edge to the top of band. The width of the aatin will depend upon the length required In th eklrt length. If long enough aa it la then wear a before mentioned, the crushed gir dle and the long enda at the aide front. I trust the above is quite plain to you and will solve your problem. in relation to the lines of the hat. Its wearer's face and the length of her neck. Here (3S76) is a little round turban of brown felt softened by a band and a brim-edge of vel- ways vet and trimmed only with a large bow of brown satin ribbon, the loops of the bow extending almost across the back of the hat. Street hats are of felt and dress ' Pf dbloms f DresmaMnX . . bu Madam RicKef -. INDEPENDENCE, Or., . Sept. IS. Dear Madam Richet:- 1 have a blue fcerge dress like sample and made like . small cut inclosed. 1 would like to have it made entirely -different if possible. The material -is perfectly good and X iiave a new piece 22 inches long and 45 , I V. . .4 I lutl.). V. U of ' ra-sadena's society girls and stout. Thanking- yon for i.ny eug- She gestlona you can give. .MRS. w. V. steel-beads.1 running for &' distance made after the blouse numbered of an Inch," and ; then a space of S4, page 63. MdCall'i for Septem the .same -.measurement and so on . ber, would be attractive. The plaia around., the , entire ' collar. The crepe de chine in the same gray aa sleeves; you do not mention as tight your skirt worked in the black and orfloose and the picture shows both red would also be a pleasing com- "styles. I woald suggest a loose type bination. Use the worsteds for the with the new long frock; a some what larger hat is necessary to give proper balance and poise to the fig ure. And you note at once that Paris has taken care of this, for the hafl a marked talent for act. new fall hats have considerable studied ln Paris, and last year one more size than last year's tailored of her pictures got into the salon. models. One is not speaking of big This is all very well, but dress hats now, but of the turbans. Said her mother the other day to tricornea and sailor shapes for a well-known landscape painter of the pleats from the street wear. southern California: make in the plain tne strip .panels, ana piacevai. wo with the satin band finished to long waistline over which wear a imatcn' tho collar.' narrow girdle of .. the serge, ending . . ; at the left side1 with long ends fin- " . mcMINNVIL-Us. "Or., Sept. ished 32. Dear with the fringe. The. girdle Madam Klchet: I ha a any akirt Ilka . . . . ujnnl - enclosed. KX Koret with two should not exceea tne men - wiain. pUjt on "ea:h side of front. I inn it. no Mother "Limits .Girl's Ambition. iAguraa Life. One IT. T 1 .. .1.- . tv.1.,1, Bafin- vnnlil liltn .aHl tn wear W MRS. W. V., Independence For. .and in back much the shape shown woald you suggest? What color and tunately, you have the one-, in tie picture you enclose.- Bring J''Z 0wnea aere"'l "nT piece line, which can be the collar on the left front, to the what color, stylo and kmd of roods do worked over very nicely. " Remove - cross line of surplice and .-on the fou think hest? Am 5 feet .5 Inches tall, .v. .w. ,w have dark-hair and eyes, dark comptex- ""fc U6iiv -ei it -fuuuuo jon. i ajTQ 07 yars or a?e. lnanaing yoo two-piece, . ing line to the end of the leftside I remain respectfully yours. ver-popular tricorne. and there are othys painting, but I don't want .blouse, whose front I would leave with the blue rope -silk in the same i - An - Inquirer, McMinnville,- Or. sailor snopes witn narrow, sugntiy ner to negieci'ner social ouues ior in tne surpiice line. witn tne snaae. as, your serge, inrtc m ficniij . iiS"i m - n(j 1Jtli, rutfla on - waist line. Womd mushroomed brims. Juat-a the mo- it. If she painta one masterpiece a . width removed from the. skirt -and ; the running stitch and . place - be- foulard .silk . wMl j. combine . nicely . llk4 to nav TCme trim minx of some kind meut the puke is having- a vogue, year that's suite, enough, t think." the piece you have oa baud make tween the rows a broken line ol with your gray skirt and a style 01 some remodeling on it tu make u hand work. A becoming .blue ln a Bolivia cloth would be about the weight you wish for a winter wrap. The style of coat shown ln this month's Pictorial on page 100, So. 1324, will be a practical and comfortable garment and can have the shorter length should you so desire, but I wo4tid have the length as shown for the winter time at least. PORTLAND, Or., Sept. la. Dear Madam: 1 am a' Chinese girl who has read your advice . to other people and 1 would like to have your advice on my serge dress. It is plaio; nothing on It. POHTLAND. Or. Dear Ms4sm Rleh.ti . i. .. . .. , . r.nil. .for a long cost or wrap from Ihl samnis enclosed oom-wii.. iiui M nary conventional tvu- for a wom.n nt had thouirnt 10 line u imi, h.ve It (or a lighter weight coal or wrap but thai is immnnit . Problem No. 2 Is to b able to alltlss the dress like sketch enclosed, la any way at all. to wear to worK. It Is good aa now and wss alwava Be coming to me as It sept th. (till part from the wa.at .Now It look, out of .late and I wonder if yo can w any posMlbllltles In It. The upper and lower auctions of oor sktrt are sepsrste and ths wsiet part a trlbla shoriwatsted without that bIC Can 1 wear that overskirt running up shorter in back? MBS. t. Mra P. The green for the coat of such a beautiful shade and tex ture that I hope you will Interline and line full length and so have a warmer wrap for the season bow upon us. A model which gives style and comfort will be found In the Fashionable Dress for October, page i. No. 2177. Trim with the black soutache braid and with this coat ear a felt hat of the same greeo with a smart feather or bow f black. For the black serge I would sug gest that you remove the upper skirt, using It as a connecting hand of depth and therefore permitting of a longer skirt line. Have a nar row line vest of bright red broad cloth, using the woolen fringe you now have on the top skirt as a fin ish along the front edges of the blouse and around the neck. The -to-the-waist" and above-the-walat line Is now being Introduced and so If the line you now have la be coming I would let It remain as It For the skirt trimming there Is a pleasing feature poaable by run ning over the Joining seams the narrow strip of red broadcloth end Irg at the left side in a conventional design made, with the ends of the two as they meet the same line at skirt side. The a!va now ahort ran he lengthened with th lower portion of the red or left a a they are with the two red stripe carried out In the same and dea;gn as yon may select for the salt'. The following questions r pa of a longer letter, aome of whk were published previously. t. H'vrk rl-tMfirtM.rrW fSatls r'.ght sifl., eerepe f ohe'& ma.le w low waist Mo-, iritfl ! t wt'-ro-Olurai loo-. f. owing t .!--'lar s.eeve. lined with J.. I. sr.-a round neca. s:s !tn h ..n, of m.t s;ihtt- looe-r lan tr-e .h'st $,-.'.-and ertsed with oM.-ng lad- .d. oa sl'n ua-d In stra.sl't lin. . s Stoma t Hie beads Ii rs t.ni-h 4.. A fr.j k of flfinrlt-t 1 a- i-;a worn with .tp of wh-ie iita ' a 1 1. summer for sml -f r mml ,.. . .so- 4"i enrloalng rru'le ek-t- h. Woo a. .-t,o color with hl'-h to enrlih ato warm B up for fall and winter Thanking in for jour Mi-nr t s - very truiy roura, MfKH I. U Mrs. K. I. To rontlnue wl'ii r"r prob:ena and for tha numttr f -tir. there would aerm li'tie, if r. change. Would "U l'k Ihr cor acheine changed from tha jad lo th American H"gur. and the Jet frln.a hanging In longer line than your aklrtT Th neck rvM he changed to a If becoming and would add a newer Una. tmiaida of th rhange abnva mnllnd lhr would e.m ;l't: need for g-nrral remodeling. Wera your lac flouncing lli"ii shad I would then ak ou to tt It ovr the him k t;if'ta. whl.-h l ways resulta in s smart fro. k. but the one wise chansa now wouM h In the g-irdl. ualag th atrawt.-rrr shad of velvet In the Inch width Let on p.d hive the w hl or It Sett. Ih left Sid the long ends and loops. A vert prel'y ff-t ! gained by festooning on. nd to h back of hip. prrr,'ting II-. long end to hang thrrfrom l-y this treatment th la. wll have th warmer tone and th t-ombm' ion Will be p. caning Rt'RAt. KrMKiS .. or lee Msdsm rllrh-t Wl l yru kind sdi m re garding a " t and ws.etT I am middle. ! Hit I'eht tal- and elra go.-d romnt. .-n. tot -noch rs'.ita.. ior t.;o- e. h-ighi t fset a III" ha, w-ight 1. I hav h-ea thir.amg of eettleg a telnd r eha-te In 1utna .tot,- ...it. r pnoihir a t"'o l" jeu think tui co or wnu d eiiit me Wonld a bent a cr-p Am ehin waul he becoming to met t hav w..ro that color, but hav alaat ad.ltd I I hst ion eon. i"i sdT.-.Md la ratainstl of a ranna c....r Th" It a i itil hau of henna I helterf How shout a eorat color tt.tta 1 wear with su. h a suIlT fl'HIM . Flornc. Ttiiral nglons. dr. tf you are living In th out-of-town district and you wish a good-looking as we'l as rvl.-shl mil, I would certainly have the lwe.1 In the brown and sand mixture, which should bcome you with tha color you possess. Have the Itrr-orud twd and mak In th. Norfolk or the ml-bng coat typ. A rotn fortable width In aalrt and rloi of pockets. To see a wll-tllord tweed and well worn la to a real pleaaur. for Ita fabric carrlea a dlatlnctlv tyl. a rherm of I's own. aa does tha oriental rug. With such a ault there should b the tailored blouse In a sand had r.f canton crop with a croes-atltch design don In the hnna or tomato shade of worsted Th coral trico lette would not b In good taste with tha twd suit, the more ta'lored fabric end shad bmg Ih proper thing to combine. ra't .I ti.ai Pea Madam Rlcheli I 'IV your advte on mahlt-g a b'U" e-rg- alt .i.to a tailored die.-. I uM I it clasr. ana 1 can wear in ' .t'e-t vllh m r for ol mill-, watt t sht, lot. S,eves. a Collar at th r- k. Wiial h om rolor comhlnatlon lg' fa. a tnw t air Is dreh arid -m g -r hair. I a-o H. yrar Old. 14U pounds, t 3 In. h.. tall, hue 14, wa.st hit s 40, c ni - cisTlon fair. Wl.l Inci.is a ehsef of tb so1 1 whl k will descrlb th suit belt's th 1 '. IKZ t. lng L. Thsng you for your cllent charting. WKh Ih - In back of Jackal. I would auggest th ua of th Inch-wld rife la a taupe broadcloth. It In turn to t. embroidered In henna and a b.ti tn match Ih serg. 1-et th atrip con tinue from under th belt, snl r.g In a loop at back of kn lit. Th will give the length an I dtr t from the rather full h'p lln. Th front seams can b treated In th ' asm manner. Hav th long r!iy fitted sleev finished sl'h Ih m broldered broadcloth, tse th worsteds for designing element. Th front of skirt should b cut, aa also the coat, end an Inset in continued line run from neck to skirt bottom edge. For a plan up.n which to work, please Ih dress numbered 1141. page . I'lciorlal lleview for October. The collar should be .f the broadcloth and th worsted wl.l supply th color you wish. wnP.Tt.Axr. Or.. a.pi. n.IP Vsdsm Rlcht! 1 have a dark brow sstlo dr. of good nai-rlal and sn very llttl 1 wish t rosk ovr. It Is a long-wsltd tauue. ioo-fii. ting, trimmed with two rows of ,f plaiting around pack and whlck ws of gold lac. It I a vary p.attv die, but 1 am tired of It. Also b '. Is e..t vary becoming. Would you suggest bal ing It dyed kieek? 1 am 2S y.rs old. dark b'owii ks r aad dark complexion, with grr re. 4 (e.t tt tack tall and w- t) o pounds. HKt It y, M pla eurgesi a pattern for a asw drwsa e( dark biw caotea cr-p. lira He Pleas write oa on ! only whan addressing this ilers'l mnt. It emg a sham to rhsng your dress, for th tktcb Is frost attractive, and only that yen piat th color as unbecoming I would suggest the combination of fawn broadcloth added to the panels and the leves. also th vest and re moving all the frills, trimming tho nck lln with narrow atrlpa of th cloth. The panels could d p lorger than the skirl, ending auto thi. narrow strips on uhr nd ol which should be placed small brown button mad from your malar al. Th gleevea should ha v t he stra ig ht a ' e e v e n t ! 'Se free . -e a f-s il.wl,.-wvw VU i k.j t