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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 1, 1922)
I - - ' - Women, Churches, Books, SECTION FIVE Schools and Features POKTLAXD, OREGON, SUNDAY 3IORXING, OCTOBER 1, 1923 ' NO. 10 VOL. XLI EVEN FRESHMEN TO WEAR SKIRTS TO ANKLES THIS YEAR Practical Serge Frocks Are -Provided for College Wear With. Coats and Slipons for; Campus and Sports Occasional Evening Gown'ls Item of Importance Not to Be Forgotten in Preparing School Wardrobe i HE shops are full of mothers and daughters selecting ward robes for school and college these September days. You can pick vout the freshmen from the sopho mores and Juniors. The little fresh man hangs back and lets mother do all the selecting and mother is very sure that it 1b best to buy. The sophomore is more decided. She knows what she wants from ex perience last year and there are apt to be spirited arguments be tween herself and her parent about details of the potential wardrobe. When it comes to the juniors and seniors, arguments are over and mother is the one who retires into tne background while daughter does the selecting, perfectly certain what she needs and only bring ing mother along by way of custom j-nd courtesy, and as a final author ity in matters of price. Kven the little freshman, how ever. Is determined about one thing; she is going to have the new long skirt. Perish the thought of arriv ing at college in a short-skirted traveling costume that would make her look like a -last year's flapper, or worse still, a jeunne fille just out of high school. A new tailored suit the must have with instep length skirt and one oT those Jaunty -loose coats with full sleeves; or a long skirted tailored frock and new loose topcoat with length enough to cover the frock. Campus i'oufs Rough and Ready. The neat tailored suit is a better choice for the college girl'; for if she travels in a frock and smart top coat, she must have another top coat for every day campus wear and the campus coat soon takes on that rough and ready. Informal look that Is ideal for a college coat but not so pleasing in a garment that must be used for traveling later on when the girl goes home for vaca tion. The jmait suit, however, will get little wear at college and will always be in proper condition for v. eek-end and holiday journeys. Brown is the particularly smart shade this fall and the college girl's traveling suit will almost certainly be brown, with perhaps a smaa choker collar of beaver of some other fur on the brown shade. Itrown is richest in the softer fab rics like wool velour and veldyne. A good looking brown velour suit, youthful in spite of the instep-length skirt, has coat pockets and side cuffs of beige crepe, appliques of the velour stitched to the crepe so that the lighter material shows only in narrow lines. The coat is straight and loose to the' hip and -has a beaver collar, and the large sleeves, -et in large armholes, that are the fashion just now. The long skirt has pleated panels at either side and a cord and tassel dropped from the waistline adds a graceful touch. There . are many brown frocks brightened with touches of gold and red machine-stitched embroid ery, or trimmed with brown silk braid and relieved by narrow collar and cuffs of ecru Venice lace or eye-let work. All these tailored dresses for young girls have long, slim lines, the belt dropped low and some sort of sash or girdle orna nent a metal clasp or a cord ca buchon with tasseled ends at the left side of the waistline. Neck openings are cut square and very shallow, or are V-shaped, the front' of the bodice crossing in surplice fashion to the ornament at the left r.t the bett. The bateau neckline is going out of style on tailored frocks, though it is still seen on formal frocks of satin and silk crepe. Vrat CONtumeM eeded Too. Classroom frocks and campus togs form only a part of the col lege wardrobe. The young girl will soon be drawn Into a pleasant so cial circle and she must have rai ment suitable for afternoon teas at the fraternity houses, .possible din ner Invitations from members of the faculty and their wives, occa sional receptions given by the col lege, trips into a nearby town for luncheon and matinee, and so on. All is jio work at colleges, and all play Is rough - and tumble out door jlay. Several dainty semi formal afternoon frocks will be needed, several informal and pretty dinner frocks, and one or two charming evening frocks with all the fixings fan, slippers, evening wrap and coiffure comb. Crepe de chine is an admirable material for the little dinner frocks. Silk poplin may be used also. For the formal afternoon' costumes, canton crepe, heniBtitched cashmere or soft, fine weave, or perhaps velvet made up :n very simple, youthful style. A good deal depends of course upon the college selected; but in almost any college community the young student will need an occasional evening frocks and one or two Sraceftil afternoon dresses, besides her classroom and campus clothes. The freshman, returning for the Thanksgiving vacation, will speed ily inform the home folks just what snes needs in the way of clothes. So it is better, in the case of a fresh man, to provide classroom and, campus costumes and articles of underwear tall carefully marked) and to leave the mote formal rai ment for selection. after the Thanksgiving holiday. Before the girl starts for colleKe. have her measurements taken, hat size, shoe slse, length of skirt, blouse and bodice size, etc., and if necessity arises, special frocks,- hats and blouses can be bought and for warded to her. Cantpu slipon Designed. Every girl at college needs sport skirts, knitted sweaters and loose blouses for tennis and other outdoor sports; not to mention the big. easy-to-put-on campus coat which will receive hard wear. This coat may be of rough tweed, of wool velour or of the soil beautiful new camcls- 1 v m . '- . ' J"..-:'- awaaawaaaBa--& snnnnnnnsannHnmmnMMM 'V' :;v"-u "V -. ' . t;"---- . ' wnnnnst Blue fi r ii .... ?; r, a 4ri hair in a self-tone plaid. It will be an Informal yet smartly shaped coat, long enough to' cover the skirt and ' with roomy pockets. ,This year's sport coat has i. wide graceful sleeve -with a deep cuff, and on many coats are choker collars of raccoon or 'possum. When Miss Freshman comes home at .Thanksgiving, it .is likely that she will demand for win ter wear at college one - of those smart, - loose, stunning sport coats of. fur. . . , Kor autumn days on -the campus there is a new knitted slipon, loose and graceful like a blouse and trimmed most engagingly with nar row' braid. One of these slipons is In mixed gray and blue knitted fab ric, the edge of the slipon and the elbow sleeve trimmed with scallops bound' with gray braid. The slashed neckline is braid-edged, and the' lash is tied together with .a bow and ends of the braid. The girl at college cannot have too many simple dresses In tailored style. It is tiresome to wear one or two frocks all the time and these simple dresses are better than skirts and - blouses for classroom ' and campus wear and tor the social af fairs of college life. An admirable frock is pictured (2712) of dark blue twill with the new surplice bodice sloping to a large belt clasp' at the left side. Machine stitch em broidery In blue, rust color and gold gives individuality to the frock. This (27i7 stunning new knitted blouse for athletic and campus wear Is in afcharming blue-gray mixed stitch, with flat trimming of white silk braid. The scalloped peplura effect below the sash Is matched by braid scalloping on the loose sleeve, and the slashed neckline is tied with a long cravat of braid, which lends a particularly smart touch. The costume is completed by a pleated wool skirt and a flexible felt sport hat with stitched silk underbrim. One of the first needs of college life is a big, warm loose coat that nothing can hurt and- which may be slipped on and off without benefit of mirror. A splendid coat is this (2709) of soft camelshair plaid in a tan and brown blending. -The collar is of raccoon and the coat sleeves, with their flare and draped effect, are extremely good style. With the smart and comfortable campus coat she is wearing just the right sort of hat one of brown felt with soft crr-n and flexible brim. one cannot wear campus clothes all the time at college. Afternoon affairs at the various fraternity houses demand something a little more formal; especially a - formal hat! The very latest mode in hats is this one (2695) of hatter's plush in the new short-back mushroom shape. A Ions scarf of black. Spaa- " lsh lace trails gracefully across the - brim and forms streamers that seem to add immensely to the formality of the simple little frock, a grirlisb af fair of hemstitched crepe in a dull red shade. r - - - ? - c N Ji ' -ktevS " ' S M jtTb-e burden - of - tjcloUer--first r'. ' . hangs ' over rthe -. 'head of housewife. Moving may be moving many a a-dreadful upheaval- or' an interlude of; trifling inconvenierfcew; according to how it is planned for or prepared far. .. .. . - ; - -Do not -begin now to denude the "rooms-,o .Uia-t-te-:Iarnliy-lives (ut- , r several weeks In an environment of cheeriessness and disorder. Ben. rather, to get everything else i.of the way preserving, fall drVssmk., ing. washing of' curtains,. 'etc. sor that when moving times comes t!ere raasbe nothing .to. Interfere ith-conntrated-eiaoi't Flaa a. cbtd.i S J. O J fi- -.e- K " 'V atle for the month so much to ha done by the end of the first week, so much by -the end of the second week "and adhere to that schedule. Put down memoranda of all the things you may Be likely to forget and at tend to hejn . ta ordes l;o not try to carry evcrj'tuilii i" jour, mind. $ - 0 else the poor, overworked thing: be come frantic and distracted toward the last. It is a rood. Idea to set anything that needs repairing or cleaning- out of the house for future delivery at the new address. Chairs and uphol stery to be repaired, broken clocka, rugs that need cleaning, pictures that need re framing may all be got ten out of the way to a safe resting and removing place. Clothing that needa cleaning and pressing, too Things that are to be thrown away may be cleaned out and disposed of so that no questions will arise about what to pack and whaf to pitch out. . Plenty of prepared food In pantry and Icebox will lighten the house wife's burden when the real work of packing begtn., and if there Is no maid in the kitchen It is good econ i j - ' plj ndUdmnii-itci - NASKLLE, Wans., Sept. Dar Madam Richet: 1 hae a nsvy but erg. suit that I should like to make Into a on.-piece dre. The klrt 1. a . two-piece model front sore. 12 Inche, wlds at top and 22 Inche. at bottom; back (on 30 Inche. wido at bottom and about the aame at top; lensth. 87 Inches with hem removed. The coat haa aeam down center bark and to buat iln. In front; aklrt portion four-piece. 12 inohea wide There are two alot pockets in kirt six inches below waiMa and two patch-pockets on th. coat. It will prob ably be neceaaaxy to purchase some new material to combine with It and I thought I should like some embroidery ' on the areas. I bave a dreae of this material mad. by thta pattern that I ahou.d like to remodel l ne collar, vuii. lined with blue crepe da chine. Th. ash la 10 inches wide and 67 inches long, with black alia frlnir. on and. Th. aklrt la 15 Incnea long ana acanoin-a n the bottom. There la Difnty of length to th. walat, aa It la blouaed all around. I am 16 yeara old, height 5 feet 1 inch, weight 11 pouuda. buat 35. waUrt 27. hip. 7; brown hair, grey .yen, dark kin, aom. color. Thanking you for any help you may be able to give me. blncerely yours. . at. H. D. M. H., Naselle. Wash. For the blue serge there Is a pleasing model made In the redingote type ni which will be worn with much favor this season. Join your skirt and jacket at a low waist line, your skirt acting as the three-paneled over skirt. A ten inch panel on either of the front sides and the one wide back panel. Have your over skirt three or four inches below the knee and the drop skirt of the same shade in a satin. The seam In the back and top fronts will be quite all right, and the long tuxedo collar of the satin will les sen the seam line showing. The vest ehouli! hi of the I'TKt- and Ilk tue . panil, . embroidered la tun omy to take dinners out for two days preceding and following the moving upheaval. a Nobody feels tho uncomfortable heat of September more than baby, just bade from a sojourn In the country, where his crib or car riage stood all day out under hl-fh, a'chlnx trees or on a shady porrh vlthin reach of 'a or mountain breeze. September, in a town apart ment, Is apt to be trying both for baby and his mother. Milk Is the most Important ques tion and the change from country milk to city milk in tint he carefully accomplished. The very best milk you can buy is no no too good for baby; and It Is better to economise on anything else your winter coat for Instance than to give the bnhy anything else- than the ftnettt grade of milk which Is of course the must expensive. Huy certified pasteurized milk In grade A and keep the milk always on tho he and protected Irom the air. Most mothers are careful about keeping milk bottles and I utihur nipples thereof ecrupulounly rl. :m. but the Si tne mot tiers somw hue feed a baby water from a ponu ttiey have touched to their own Ups or allow pepole to kin the b.iby on the mouth. Thta should hrvrr be permitted. fierms grown pe.ple rtiay take In without harm to th-m-kitlrei may e4lly le t rantf erred to a baby, and no hby should rvtr be kissed on its muutli, r have a finger thrust in its mouth to si c If teeth are coming! Give the baby freshwater todr'nk at least three times a day. Hull the water anj cool it, hut do nut Ice it lo not wait until hahy ahivi aymptoms of llln. ss to send fr lhi Coctor. A you hh hahy should be regularly under a physic iu n s cii e and ltd condition m.s.-t-d upon once a month. The thing to do Is kr.p rhe baby In good condition, so that -It sleeps, eats, fr.rows and does not fret unduly. If tt is a well huhy epeclal attention from the doctor because oi illness will rait-ly be re quired. Life In a three -and -bath Is not only endurable, but very pleas ant If so to spe.k one cuts her garments accordlng to her uluih. That Is. If the I hree-a nd-hat h in furnished accord tug to i s" size and with the right sort of conveniences for crowded-up existence, a nd not filled with odds and ends that cum ber up the space and make one winh alt the time for "more rooms.' Even a bed-sitting romn nud hath Is comfortable and pleasant- when properly furnished. There are dav enports which turn Into aood beds at night. A bureau Is not really nec essary when you ran have a console table with a mirror over It a nd stow away your comb and bruh and toilet articles In Its shallow drawer during duyttmo hours. The deep drawers of a desk or a high boy will answer for blouses and gloves just aa well as drawers of a chiffonier would. Any woman, neat and systematic by habit, can live very comfortably in one room and bath all winter long and have a cozy living room ny day and a pleasant bedroom by night. When you buy furniture for a three-and-bath select articles not too large or If you have your fur niture already, store all tho thlnas that would clutter up space and that are .not really needed. The gate It g table has become an established Institution now and dining rooms are a luxury few people In city apartments can afford though one woman haa remarked thst she is going to have a dining room next year if she has to store her bedroom furniture and sleep on a couch In that dining room, and keep her comb and brush In the sideboard drawer! But If you do use a gate leg table for meals, have one that btween meals Is folded up and set aside. Moving books, lamp and odds and ends from a table In the living room every time you desire to est soon becomes a terrible nufsanc. n:-L black, tan, red and old hlue rope silks. Select a conventional design, and do not embroider more thun two-thirds of the panel's length. The girdle should he narrow and made of the satin. The pockets now in the skirt will be perfectly correct In the redingote top. Sleeves are lung and tlcht fitting with a slightly flared cuff. For your silk, I would suggest nothing better than the type you now have, as the newest modeli are cut In this very line. The one ad dition which mluht please you would be the binding of the scal lops, and new cuffs and collar In the green satin, matching the green as used In the weave of your ma terial. It would bo folly for me to suggest another style when this one Is so perfect. Dear Madam. Kl-hc;l hav. ben wanting to tnaka ov.r my blue trtrotin. suit into a good-looking etreet dreaa. bill rajinut deccle on how lo dp tt. Tit aklrt ta In the regulation amt aklrt atyln. front tlece plain with two a. It pockela, and the ack rlec. gathered, wltb a nartow btiit over all. Mils. J4:L. Mrs. McD., Salem. Or. If It were not because you wish to change your suit to the one-piece dress I would advise you to keep It In Its pres ent form, as from your description it would seem very much Ilka the suits now being shown. Mather than the panels aa a skirt trim I would suggest the slitting of your skirt at either side and thereunder having a set-In of black or the matching blue satin. The edges of your ma terial, which overlap the satin, should be trimmed In the black silk rord lo-aj.a. Join your Jacket snd i