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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 13, 1922)
a; The' bobbed-haired Brunfiilde in the center of the group below is Ethelda Bleibtrey, swimming champion, who long ego committed herself to short hair and snap. She is being taught how to make up by Mary Anderson, the movie beauty shown at right. , J c ' : 0 I : - ( .. ' - J ' , ' .1 . . . 4' ' i " . I . , ' . . . I j v. i . - " v - , ? i I ; . - . . v.........'.. U -J, ..... . . 1 Women barbers are almost as frequent as men because the number of women who need tonsorial attention now runs inte the millions. The photograph shows two girls getting their weekly trimming. BOBBED HAIR Is no longer the ex clusive hallmark of the flapper; bobbed hair is no longer a craze. It Is now established as a national institu tion along with baseball, ice cream- soda and the flivver. Propagandists still call for the return of the flowing locks of yesterday's lan guorous era. Scalp specialists with an ax to grind predict that bobbed - haired women will verge into bald-headed women. But despite these alarums a good 60 per cent of American girls are definitely committed to the ear-length ringlet. Perhaps no better illustration of the new condition could be offered than that furnished by the action of the union bar bers of the Bronx, New-York city, who wnt on strike because girls who wanted their hair bobbed and also those who wanted their short locks trimmed Insist on going to the barber shop after their own business hours and after the bar bers closing time. The master barbers naturally wished to accommodate their new patrons and the Journeymen simply wouldn't stand for It, so they went on a strike. The matter has cot been perma cently settled yet, Bobbed hair ceased to be a mere craze when the first girl who had hers cut be cause the others were doing it. decided la her second summer- to continue it. There were several reasons why these pioneers decided to stick to bobbed hair. In the first place they thought of the Immense bother that the restored long hair would be. Then again they thought of that intermediate period when their hair wculd have lost Its crisp and curling shortness, but would still not be long enough to put up properly. It also oc curred to them that the bob had given them a certain piquancy they had never had before and might never have again. So they decided to stick to It a while longer. And the longer they stuck the less reason there appeared to be for ever rolng back. All the forces of Inertia have teen on the side of bobbed hair. For, as untold millions soon found out. It was much simpler to cut hair than grow it back again. The surest Indication of the perma nency of the bobbed-hair vogue is fur nished by the barbers. A uhile back the air was filled with lamentations of des perate raior wlelders. What, with the prevalence of the accursed safety raxor and the high cost of lather, etc.. their business, they sad. was going to the dogs. The only way to prevent the bar ber shop from being wiped off the face ct the earth vaa to raise the price ot a N -i r - " v:. K -y 1 " t V'. I l . haircut to a dollar. Meetings were held and statements Issued. Then of a sudden the lamentations ceased and there was no more talk about the dollar haircut. The reason was not far to seek, though many male persons haven't found it yet. The increased num ber of women who had decided to bob their hair and keep it bobbed so swelled the receipts of hotel and department store barber shops that additional chairs had to be Installed to take care of the girls. This finally led to the establish ment of regular shops for women and no department store in any of the large American cities is now complete without a "ladles' tonsorial hall." In New York and Chicago shops that cere established for women are now the largest barber shops in the world. On Saturdays around noon these shops need only to be seen for one to understand why the barbers have quit their lamentations and why those who know declare that bobbed hair has come to stay. Scene In a Barber Shop. A typical New York shop occupies a whole floor and la each of the chairs, ex tending in double rows down the length of the room, sits a feminine customer And as fast as one is discharged another replaces her. , Girls who have their hair trimmed every week usually go to their favorite shops Immediately upon reaching the shopping district and draw checks from, the head barber. The number of each check Indicates how soon its possessor may have a chair. She can then use the intervening time In shopping. , Further evidence that bobbed hair has come to stay is furnished by any business office. A count of any establishment employing women workers will reveal that a good half ot them have perma nently adopted bobbed hair. In fact, the business girl, along with the athletic girl, has found that the short cut is an asset. She doesn't have to take up as much ot her time In preparation for the day's work, she doesn't have to makeas many excursions to the dressing rooms In order to keep ship-shape during the day, amd she can attack her Job with abandon and still know that her hair Is not going to betray her into dowdlness. The athletic girl decided a long time ago that she couldn't afford to have her hair coming loose while she was In the midst ot a championship swim or a ten nis match. The short hair was as neces sary to her feeling ot fitness for her Job as overalls to an engine driver. Bobbed hair as might be expectej& carries its penalties. Women have to have shapely seeks la order to wear eve TIIE SUNDAY OFEGOXIAX. fl ning clothes and bobbed hair, too, and there are limitations to the amount of ornamentation that can be carried in the coiffure. A number ot the younger women, both American and English, who were pre sented recently at the court of King George and Queen Mary found their bobbed hair somewhat of an embarrass ment at first because they could think ot no way to fasten the three feathers, re quired on that occasion. Into their hair. The difficulty was finally met by Bond street hair dressers, who contrived ban deaux to hold the decorations. And now that bobbed hair Is a recog nized part ot the American scheme, con siderable interest has been aroused by the discussion as to what American woman first bobbed her hair. Several have been mentioned, but the majority of opinions favor Mrs. Irene - Castle Tre malne as the prototype of the modern bobbed beauty. "When Mrs. Tremalne first appeared as the dancing partner of her late husband, "Vernon Castle, bobbed hair appeared with her. Mrs. Castle was not influenced by any ambition to set a style she was concerned solely with enhancing her slim beauty. That she achieved the effect she wanted goes without saying, tor she has kept her bobbed hair till this day. Advocated Bobbing in J 010. Alma Webster Powell of Brooklyn, former opera singer and champion of the working girls' cause, was the first so ciety woman to take the radical step ot having her hair bobbed. She cut it off in 1910 and created a sensation in New York city, for the long black hair she had shorn marked her as a noted beauty. She then predicted that some day she then estimated, and quite accurately, a decade' women generally would wear short hair. Another pioneer with bobbed hair was Mae Bush, the actress, who has returned to motion pictures after several . years' absence. Mae Bush's bobbed hair was known to. picture fans as long as ten years ago, when she had leading roles in the Mack Sennet comedies. In those days the film actors and actresses were anonymous. There were no programmes then. But everybody knew Mae Bush as "the bobbed-hair girl." Miss Bush doesn't claim to be the first The beach ' sprites" are all -bobbed-haired this-year. and the Manhattan Beach quintet at the right are typical. They are Gertrude Mot an, Bessie, Lynan, Lauretta O'Reilly, Agnes LymanandMiorie'BrcwwUi. PORTLAND, AUGUST 13, 1923 What Was Once a Mere Fad Has Become an Established. American Institution, Along With Ice Cream Soda, Baseball and Flivvers Why Barber Shops for Women Are Busiest bobfced-halr girl. She yields that honoi to Mrs. Castle Tremalne. She does, how ever, claim to be the second. Office workers advance the claims of bobbed hair as a time saver. When lunch time arrived In the days of long hair, they say, at least ten minutes had to be cut off the eating period while hir net was rearranged and. hair combed. Also, the convenience of bobbed hair on the beaches has really increased the number of women swimmers. Now, with BIG WHALES FOUND fTHB 'biggest I are found animals In the world in the Pacific ocean. writes Barton Warren Evermann in the Pan-Pacific Union Bulletin. These are the massive whales of so many dif ferent varieties that scientists do not even know Just what and where they are. The commercial fisheries of the North Pacific can be properly understood and regulated only In the light of pretty full knowledge of the Cetaceans and seals of the various kinds. It is important to know Just what relation the whales, sea lions, harbor seals and porpoises sustain to the salmon, the sardine, the herring and the cod. The relation of the Califor nia sea Hon and Steller's sea lion to the salmon fisheries has long been a moot question. Conclusive study of the question has never been made, and no one is In a posi tion to say from his own knowledge Just what laws should tie enacted regarding those species. The same is true of the whales. What we know or believe re garding their feeding habits Is of the most general character. Only a few days ago I was told that an examination of the stomach contents ot a humpback whale recently brought in to the Moss Landing whaling station of the California Sea Products company yielded 1500 to 3000 pounds of sardines, besides a miscellane ous lot of smelt, anchovies, shrimps and squids. In the stomach of a sperm whale were found a ten-foot shark, a piece ot fur-seal skin and a bunch ot fishhooks. These are surprising statements, espe- I " m y t , ' w it J py"y , - J-c. . r -vA-l u v i I rc)w- - . - ' v " L. -lllll ' - - - i - - , i ) , M-M, - -Hil, , i, M- Tt f - - - mi -- - '- ''" TI-.,Jf.V,n-,f -.?, .1,.,,-.V ,,,.,,1-.,!, 3 These three girls on the right illus trate three popular varieties of bobbed hair. At the (op is Dolly Douglass with a straight cut. Below is Lucille Doug lass, shown with hair newly bobbed in ! curled fashion Mrs. M. Epstein, at the bottom, shows the wave style. bobned hair, wet tresses mean little. An other sport of women, cross - country hiking, has helped make bobbed hair popular. There are no facilities at road side lodgings for elaborate coiffures. IN PACIFIC OCEAN daily that about the ten-foot shark. They call attention to the necessity for compre hensive study of the feeding habits of whales and their relation to the fisheries. The sardine fishermen of Monterey bay, as well as those in Norway, claim that the whales herd the sardines inshore and are, therefore; beneficial to the sardine fishery; they, therefore, object' to the killing of whales. The whaling station at Moss Landing on Monterey bay offers ex ceptional facilities for investigation ot this question. As a matter of fact we know too little about the relation of most of the 40 odd species of marine mammals to the commercial fisheries to enable us to advise intelligently as to the laws for their protection, regulation or destruc tion. We do know that, because ot the great commercial value of their pelts, the three species of fur seal and the two of sea otter should be fully protected. We know that no more of any of those spe cies should be killed without in the least militating against, the maintenance of those valuable species at the maximum number and efficiency. Whether this statement can be made regarding any others is doubtful. Some of them, as the whales, have considerable commercial value. Still others, as the dolphins and harbor seals,- possess as- yet only slight commercial value. What the effect on the fisheries would be if their numbers should greatly increase, or greatly de crease, can not safely be predicted; the known facts are not adequate for a decided answer; only long-continued, painstaking investigation can tell us what the answer will be. J . : v ..-'v. '$. jt V - J, is. ' - si 1 i !i - 1 - h - ?V f 1 i . A -t )
