a;
The' bobbed-haired Brunfiilde in the
center of the group below is Ethelda
Bleibtrey, swimming champion, who
long ego committed herself to short
hair and snap. She is being taught
how to make up by Mary Anderson,
the movie beauty shown at right.
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Women barbers are almost as frequent as men because the number of women who need tonsorial attention now runs
inte the millions. The photograph shows two girls getting their weekly trimming.
BOBBED HAIR Is no longer the ex
clusive hallmark of the flapper;
bobbed hair is no longer a craze.
It Is now established as a national institu
tion along with baseball, ice cream- soda
and the flivver.
Propagandists still call for the return
of the flowing locks of yesterday's lan
guorous era. Scalp specialists with an ax
to grind predict that bobbed - haired
women will verge into bald-headed
women. But despite these alarums a
good 60 per cent of American girls are
definitely committed to the ear-length
ringlet.
Perhaps no better illustration of the
new condition could be offered than that
furnished by the action of the union bar
bers of the Bronx, New-York city, who
wnt on strike because girls who wanted
their hair bobbed and also those who
wanted their short locks trimmed Insist
on going to the barber shop after their
own business hours and after the bar
bers closing time. The master barbers
naturally wished to accommodate their
new patrons and the Journeymen simply
wouldn't stand for It, so they went on a
strike. The matter has cot been perma
cently settled yet,
Bobbed hair ceased to be a mere craze
when the first girl who had hers cut be
cause the others were doing it. decided
la her second summer- to continue it.
There were several reasons why these
pioneers decided to stick to bobbed hair.
In the first place they thought of the
Immense bother that the restored long
hair would be. Then again they thought
of that intermediate period when their
hair wculd have lost Its crisp and curling
shortness, but would still not be long
enough to put up properly. It also oc
curred to them that the bob had given
them a certain piquancy they had never
had before and might never have again.
So they decided to stick to It a while
longer. And the longer they stuck the
less reason there appeared to be for ever
rolng back. All the forces of Inertia have
teen on the side of bobbed hair. For, as
untold millions soon found out. It was
much simpler to cut hair than grow it
back again.
The surest Indication of the perma
nency of the bobbed-hair vogue is fur
nished by the barbers. A uhile back the
air was filled with lamentations of des
perate raior wlelders. What, with the
prevalence of the accursed safety raxor
and the high cost of lather, etc.. their
business, they sad. was going to the
dogs. The only way to prevent the bar
ber shop from being wiped off the face
ct the earth vaa to raise the price ot a
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. haircut to a dollar. Meetings were held
and statements Issued.
Then of a sudden the lamentations
ceased and there was no more talk about
the dollar haircut. The reason was not
far to seek, though many male persons
haven't found it yet. The increased num
ber of women who had decided to bob
their hair and keep it bobbed so swelled
the receipts of hotel and department
store barber shops that additional chairs
had to be Installed to take care of the
girls. This finally led to the establish
ment of regular shops for women and no
department store in any of the large
American cities is now complete without
a "ladles' tonsorial hall."
In New York and Chicago shops that
cere established for women are now the
largest barber shops in the world. On
Saturdays around noon these shops need
only to be seen for one to understand why
the barbers have quit their lamentations
and why those who know declare that
bobbed hair has come to stay.
Scene In a Barber Shop.
A typical New York shop occupies a
whole floor and la each of the chairs, ex
tending in double rows down the length
of the room, sits a feminine customer
And as fast as one is discharged another
replaces her.
, Girls who have their hair trimmed
every week usually go to their favorite
shops Immediately upon reaching the
shopping district and draw checks from,
the head barber. The number of each
check Indicates how soon its possessor
may have a chair. She can then use the
intervening time In shopping. ,
Further evidence that bobbed hair has
come to stay is furnished by any business
office. A count of any establishment
employing women workers will reveal
that a good half ot them have perma
nently adopted bobbed hair. In fact, the
business girl, along with the athletic girl,
has found that the short cut is an asset.
She doesn't have to take up as much ot
her time In preparation for the day's
work, she doesn't have to makeas many
excursions to the dressing rooms In order
to keep ship-shape during the day, amd
she can attack her Job with abandon and
still know that her hair Is not going to
betray her into dowdlness.
The athletic girl decided a long time
ago that she couldn't afford to have her
hair coming loose while she was In the
midst ot a championship swim or a ten
nis match. The short hair was as neces
sary to her feeling ot fitness for her Job
as overalls to an engine driver.
Bobbed hair as might be expectej&
carries its penalties. Women have to
have shapely seeks la order to wear eve
TIIE SUNDAY OFEGOXIAX.
fl
ning clothes and bobbed hair, too, and
there are limitations to the amount of
ornamentation that can be carried in the
coiffure.
A number ot the younger women, both
American and English, who were pre
sented recently at the court of King
George and Queen Mary found their
bobbed hair somewhat of an embarrass
ment at first because they could think ot
no way to fasten the three feathers, re
quired on that occasion. Into their hair.
The difficulty was finally met by Bond
street hair dressers, who contrived ban
deaux to hold the decorations.
And now that bobbed hair Is a recog
nized part ot the American scheme, con
siderable interest has been aroused by
the discussion as to what American
woman first bobbed her hair. Several
have been mentioned, but the majority of
opinions favor Mrs. Irene - Castle Tre
malne as the prototype of the modern
bobbed beauty.
"When Mrs. Tremalne first appeared as
the dancing partner of her late husband,
"Vernon Castle, bobbed hair appeared
with her. Mrs. Castle was not influenced
by any ambition to set a style she was
concerned solely with enhancing her slim
beauty. That she achieved the effect she
wanted goes without saying, tor she has
kept her bobbed hair till this day.
Advocated Bobbing in J 010.
Alma Webster Powell of Brooklyn,
former opera singer and champion of the
working girls' cause, was the first so
ciety woman to take the radical step ot
having her hair bobbed. She cut it off in
1910 and created a sensation in New
York city, for the long black hair she had
shorn marked her as a noted beauty. She
then predicted that some day she then
estimated, and quite accurately, a decade'
women generally would wear short
hair.
Another pioneer with bobbed hair was
Mae Bush, the actress, who has returned
to motion pictures after several . years'
absence. Mae Bush's bobbed hair was
known to. picture fans as long as ten
years ago, when she had leading roles in
the Mack Sennet comedies. In those days
the film actors and actresses were
anonymous. There were no programmes
then. But everybody knew Mae Bush as
"the bobbed-hair girl."
Miss Bush doesn't claim to be the first
The beach ' sprites" are all -bobbed-haired
this-year. and the Manhattan
Beach quintet at the right are typical.
They are Gertrude Mot an, Bessie,
Lynan, Lauretta O'Reilly, Agnes
LymanandMiorie'BrcwwUi.
PORTLAND, AUGUST 13, 1923
What Was Once a Mere Fad Has
Become an Established. American
Institution, Along With Ice Cream
Soda, Baseball and Flivvers Why
Barber Shops for Women Are Busiest
bobfced-halr girl. She yields that honoi
to Mrs. Castle Tremalne. She does, how
ever, claim to be the second.
Office workers advance the claims of
bobbed hair as a time saver. When lunch
time arrived In the days of long hair,
they say, at least ten minutes had to be
cut off the eating period while hir net
was rearranged and. hair combed.
Also, the convenience of bobbed hair
on the beaches has really increased the
number of women swimmers. Now, with
BIG WHALES FOUND
fTHB 'biggest
I are found
animals In the world
in the Pacific ocean.
writes Barton Warren Evermann
in the Pan-Pacific Union Bulletin. These
are the massive whales of so many dif
ferent varieties that scientists do not
even know Just what and where they
are.
The commercial fisheries of the North
Pacific can be properly understood and
regulated only In the light of pretty full
knowledge of the Cetaceans and seals of
the various kinds. It is important to
know Just what relation the whales, sea
lions, harbor seals and porpoises sustain
to the salmon, the sardine, the herring
and the cod. The relation of the Califor
nia sea Hon and Steller's sea lion to the
salmon fisheries has long been a moot
question.
Conclusive study of the question has
never been made, and no one is In a posi
tion to say from his own knowledge Just
what laws should tie enacted regarding
those species. The same is true of the
whales. What we know or believe re
garding their feeding habits Is of the
most general character. Only a few days
ago I was told that an examination of the
stomach contents ot a humpback whale
recently brought in to the Moss Landing
whaling station of the California Sea
Products company yielded 1500 to 3000
pounds of sardines, besides a miscellane
ous lot of smelt, anchovies, shrimps and
squids. In the stomach of a sperm whale
were found a ten-foot shark, a piece ot
fur-seal skin and a bunch ot fishhooks.
These are surprising statements, espe-
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These three girls on the right illus
trate three popular varieties of bobbed
hair. At the (op is Dolly Douglass with
a straight cut. Below is Lucille Doug
lass, shown with hair newly bobbed in !
curled fashion Mrs. M. Epstein, at
the bottom, shows the wave style.
bobned hair, wet tresses mean little. An
other sport of women, cross - country
hiking, has helped make bobbed hair
popular. There are no facilities at road
side lodgings for elaborate coiffures.
IN PACIFIC OCEAN
daily that about the ten-foot shark. They
call attention to the necessity for compre
hensive study of the feeding habits of
whales and their relation to the fisheries.
The sardine fishermen of Monterey bay,
as well as those in Norway, claim that
the whales herd the sardines inshore and
are, therefore; beneficial to the sardine
fishery; they, therefore, object' to the
killing of whales. The whaling station at
Moss Landing on Monterey bay offers ex
ceptional facilities for investigation ot
this question. As a matter of fact we
know too little about the relation of most
of the 40 odd species of marine mammals
to the commercial fisheries to enable us
to advise intelligently as to the laws for
their protection, regulation or destruc
tion. We do know that, because ot the great
commercial value of their pelts, the
three species of fur seal and the two of
sea otter should be fully protected. We
know that no more of any of those spe
cies should be killed without in the least
militating against, the maintenance of
those valuable species at the maximum
number and efficiency. Whether this
statement can be made regarding any
others is doubtful. Some of them, as the
whales, have considerable commercial
value. Still others, as the dolphins and
harbor seals,- possess as- yet only slight
commercial value. What the effect on
the fisheries would be if their numbers
should greatly increase, or greatly de
crease, can not safely be predicted; the
known facts are not adequate for a decided
answer; only long-continued, painstaking
investigation can tell us what the answer
will be.
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