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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 15, 1921)
4 THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND. MAY 15. 1921 TAFFETA FROCKS IN CRISP, QUAINT MODES ARE MOST POPULAR CREATIONS OF MAYTIME Bands of Cream Lace on Dark Designs 'Are Fancy of Season, While Fichu and Sash Effects Compete With Ruffles to Make Dresses Attractive. I . : fe J Czumj yEj! I - lib I, Xd i 'f-l lis I That is, they diminish to a point at the neck and widen to several inches at the belt line, giving: the effect of a Jacket opening: over a waistcoat. Bands of lace on taffeta are dis tinctly new. Last year such a notion would have been regarded as bizarre !n the extreme but you ' never can tell what fancies will occur to Madam Mode. The frock pictured (7624) is an adaptation of a delightful little costume launched by Lanvin earlier in the season though Lanvin'a frock had one band or lace trimming where this has two. The frock is of blatek jhiffon taffeta and the lace is cream filet in a well defined pattern. The short sleeve with Its inserted band of lace is a faithful copy of the Lanvin model. You have only to glance at the neckwear counter these days to real ize, what women are paying for col lars hat go with silk frocks. Some' of these exquisite bits of neckwear cost $10 and over but the beautiful bit of neckwear is the making of a simple Bilk frock. Hand embroid ered batiste and real filet laces are Joined with hand hemstitching and eyeiet embroidered mulls and hand kerchief linen are made into collars of various sizes and shapes. The ecru or cream collar is a bit smart er than the pure white one on. a taf feta frock of any collar Just now. You can get a collar that will define a square neck opening, or u round col lar that will lie flat on the should ers, or a surplice collar that will fol low the line of a surplice front. And there are tiny collars that Just lie across the back of the neck, soften ing too plain a line, when a1 string of handsome beads relieves the front of the decolletage. The surplice styles are most be coming to full figures an J the flat, childish bodices that are most fash ionable Just now should only be attempted by women of slender pro portions. These flat, plain Doaicee, strained over a rather obviouslj curved figure are anything but pretty. If you cannot wear the fiat, button in-back bodice, and are ttred 01 tne surplice style, 'here is the new vest, narrow at the top and widenin toward the belt, which is very smart and has somehow a youthful Sugges tion. The bit of relieving white (or cream) at the neck of a silk frock often constitutes its strongest style asset, and very simple dresses are made distinguished by these beautiful bits of neckwear. Here (7960) is a taffeta frock in . simple, girlish style and the surplice neck openin is defined by a dainty collar of sheer handkerchief lawn and Venise lace most effective against the dark silk of the frock. Changeable green and rose taffeta made this model and th shirred, flat flowers of the silk that trim skirt and sleeve are outlined with gold threads. Only a petite person will look well in this (6458) picturesque little frock with its puffy sleeve trimming and tight bodice fastening with buckled straps across a full vest; but for slender, dainty maid the little cos tume is enchanting. It is of brown taffeta with ecru georgette vest and undersleeve and the buckles are of shell. The skirt has shirred panels at either side and the turned-under hem which is still popular. Van Raallt ITruf Clntf tralck is mndrr plor and trpottd b iliaf as iilustrutfd. MAYTIME is silk frock time; every woman admits it. In home sewing rooms all over the land "summer silks" are being turned out at this minute and in the work room of every dressmaker's shop partly finished silk frocks lie about. One has done with problems of spring suits and cbats and problems of mid summery attire are not yet pressing. Ma'ytime Is silk frock time for lemi ninity. Who of the last generation does not remember the "summer silk"; the in dispensable costume, usually "a fou lard" and occasionally a "changeable foulard reigned for vears and"years and still maintains it nlace in feminine fancy; but sev eral other silks are crowding it hard this season. One of these silks is canton crepe; another is crepe de chine: still another is taffeta. There re nlenty of new foulard patterns In the departments where yardage goods are sold but somehow all the smart little silk dresses in the shop windows seem to be of canton crepe, ereDe de chine or taffeta. And par ticularly taffeta. Not in years has taffeta had such a vogue and the little spring frocks of taffeta are de lightful, with their quaint styles ana charming coloring. Of course, there are more gray taf turn frocks than any other kind, for this is a gray season colorfully cneakincr. There are handsome, dig nified gray taffetas for matrons and dainty, demure gray taffetas for young maids, and smart and dafhing gray taffetas lor young marriea women. Taffeta is a material that must be made up with a certain dach anyway. Unlike foulard it cannot depend on its stunning pattern and on the soft, graceful lines it takes for its distinction. A too plain taf feta frock has a certain austerity and can make its wearer look older than she is. The crispness of taffeta must be broken up into coquettish details to give the youthful suggestion and the effect is achieved this year with ruffles, pleatings and corded shir rings. 5ext to gray taffeta frocks, black taffeta frocks are fashionable. Even the very young girls are wearing black taffeta dresses this spring though the black effect Is usually re lieved in one way or another by a gay sash or a collar and vestee of sheer stuff, or by bands of lace put directly on the silk. This idea of white lace trimming on dark taf feta is distinctly new. Such a com bination would have been deemed out rageous a season, or two ago when nobody was putting lace on anything much. And particularly white lace on dark taffeta fancy ! But the com bination is really rather fetching, as Paris discovered when Lanvin launched a little frock of the sort early in the season. Now the effect has been copied far and wide and bids fair to be a style feature of the summer. Lanvin's frocks were of black chif fon taffeta with a full overskirt falling almost to the edge of a very narrow underskirt. The overskirt was chirred in five rows below the belt, giving a smooth fit at the top and the belt Itself was dropped rather low. A wide band of cream lace was let Into the overskirt, about eight Inches above the hen-., and sim ilar bands edged the elbow sleeves, though a narrow hem of tlack taf feta at the sleeve edge Indicated that the lace was an insertion, not an edge trimming. The bodice was gathered up with a ribbon-run cas- -1 .V PORTLAND. Or.. ADril 23. Dear Miss ungie win you pleiue give, at your ear liest opportunity, a recipe for making i-uoeoiaie .Bavarian cream. Tbanking- you in aavanre. MKM. H. O. A. CHOCOLATE BAVARIAN CREAM I . Melt 2 ounces of chocolate over hot water, stir and cook uniu giossy, witn cup. each, sugar and water; then add 1 cup milk and raise to the boiling point. Com bine with 2 or 3 yolks of eggs and cook until the mixture thickens. Add Y package plain gelatine soaked in 14 cup cold water, and stir until completely dissolved: add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Set in cold water, stirring occasionally until it begins to stiffen .ilightly; then beat with a Ladd egg beater and when it is of "whipped cream consistency," fold ii 'A pint whipping cream, beaten stiff. Turn into a mould rinsed in ice water or oiled or lined with greased paper as may be most convenient, or pile in serving glasses, or place in individual moulds as preferred. When firm serve with a garnish of whipped and sweetened cream with a few blanched and shredded almonds, or a bit of preserved cherry or angelica or French fruit paste. For a chocolate marsh mallow cream stir in a few cut-up marshmallows into the first mixture. If moulded in an ordinary loaf pan, this may be turned out and sliced (with a warm knife) like brick ice cream,' and 19 convenient for service, on occasion, in place of ice cream for "party" refreshments. It is especially good with macaroons or nut wafers. The mixture may also be used for cake, pie or cream puff fillings. PRINEVILLB, Or.. April 30. 1921. Dear Mies Tingle Would you kindly send me recipe for chop suey? Also how to cook rice to fro with It and how to make brown bauce to pour over it? Thanking you. " MKS. O. W. It is never possible for me to send recipes or make personal replies. Chop suey is a general name like' pie." Below is a recipe for one of many varieties. I Judge that by "the brown sauce to pour over it," you ean soy. This cannot be prepared at home. It is made from soy beans by a process of fermentation. Your best plan would be to buy it from a Chi nese grocery. A very mild, well ripened mushroom 'or walnut catsup lght be substituted, out neitner 01 these would be as good as soy and they would take quite six months to prepare, even if mushrooms and green walnuts were now in season: Chon Suev No. 1 One small chicken. V, Dound lean pork cut in small strips H4 inches long. cup snreaaea cei ery, onion snreaaea, six ninese dried mushrooms soaked in water and shredded, 6 water chestnuts cut thin. pound wheat sprouts or Dean sprouts, green pejper shredded, a small piece of ginger root. Boil the chicken until tender. Remove all tne meat andi cut in long, narrow pieces. Return bones and skin to the broth and boil down until you have one cup of very strong broth when strained. Fry the thin shreds of .pork until brown, then ad.d the other ingredients and fry slightly, then add broth. Sim mer until cooked through and season wall, using a little salt and about one tablespoon each gu yow and soy (both obtainable from Chinese provision shops). Serve with . rice or Chinese noodle and a bottle of soy. Bamboo shoots are often used in chop suey. Boiled rice Wash the rice but do not soak it. Drop gradually into a large quantity of rapidly boiling salted water, so as not to check the boiling. Boil rapidly (adding more water if necessary) for ab-ut 20 min utes, or until a grain of rice can be completely crushed between thumb and finger. Drain (but save the rice water for other purposes and dash a nttio rnld water over the rice in the colander to separate the grains. Cover the colander wltn a toiaea napmn .uu set over the pan containing a little hot water, to steam and dry a little. Each grain should be separate and perfectly tender. Serve with chop suey curry or other meat dishes in place of potatoes. . EUGENE, Or., May 4. Dear Miss Tingle ?ih v,. kindly repeat a recipe for Mra. Harding's Waffles" which aPP?"'' In The Oregonian some unit: ivoi-irkW mas. Tnanaing yuu. I hope this is what you want: Mrs. Harding's waffles. 2 eggs 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 heaping taoie spoons butter: 1 pint milk; 1 pint flour; 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder: 1 teaspoon salt. Beat the yolks of the eggs and nake a fmooth batter with the sugar, salt, milk and flour. Add the butter melted and Just before baking add tne DaKing powder ana sun Cook in hot waffle irons a..u y with plenty or outier ..... . syrup So much flavor can be gained fro stock-.- - : For chicken gravy especially, it is a ooa plan to cook the giblets (in eluding the scalded and skinned fee and the neck that has been cut off to secure the correct trussing) in a separate saucepan to ," provide good stocK tor tne gravy, a slice of onion a. uil ui ceiery lear, a clove, a sprig 01 parsiey ana about one inch of very, thin cut lemon rind are often used as a bouquet for chicken stock maae in this way. Sometimes with roast meat roast chicken (especially if it ha been roasted in a self-basting', roaster by a person unskilled in temperatures) Instead of. the brown "glaze" that gives flavor and color to a gravy, there is only a pale somewnat greasy liquid. In such a case keep the meat warm whUe you put tne roaster over the stove and boil the liquid very rapidly down to a brown glaze, being careful of course not to burn either the glaze or the fat. You then remove any su perfluous fat (following one to two tamespoons fat for each cup of gravy wanted) and dissolve the brown glaze in me required amount of stock water (or in some cases milk) and add the smooth minced thickening ana seasoning. Or in some cases you brown the thickening flour in the pan, with the rat ana glaze and then add the liquid ituiiw, uul mis requires a little more knack" or 6kill and the other method is a little easlre for a beginner. The seasoning is very important. .enough salt and not too much pep per" is the first rule. In addition to this remember that a few grains of sugar ana a lew drops of acid (pre ferably lemon Juice) will enable vou to "taste further." as it were and improve the general meaty flavor of the gravy without being recog- nizaDie tr.emselves. Tou must not be able to tatte either sugar or lemon as such; if you do. you have spoiled the seasoning by adding too mucn. A little onion Juice, or catsup, lew grains of mace or cayenne are among other "taste developers" that may De used imperceptibly" in seasoning occasionally. Many French cooks boil down any "economical stock to a glaze and keep a small Jar of it on hand to give coior ana character to gravies. Boul lion cubes, kitchen bouquet and cara mei. browning are also helpful in emergency to give a good color as well as flavor but attention to the development of the pan glaze is the important point.' In making "frying pan gravy." care has to be taken to avoid over-cooking the fat and glaze from the browned meat and at the same time develop Ing color and flavor. Browning a tiny bit of onion or carrot is some times helpful. It is a little hard to know how to help you beyond giving these gen eral suggestions as to sources of color and flavor and how to avoid lumpl ness and greasiness, two other "mor tal sins" in gravy making. The use of previously browned flour, or cooked brown rous is sometimes helpful. When in a hurry remember that corn-starch mixes more quickly smooth than does flour, but thickens nearly twice as much. Don't forget the value of a little bit of bacon, ham or bacon fat in cooking chicken (in almost any way) as a "flavor developer." And be sure to remove superfluous fat before thickening. Let me know if you need any othei suggestions. You can get some good cook books from the public library and with a little study and practice you should be able to avoid commit ting some of the culinary crimes sometimes misnamed gravy. r. Watch X ?;1 X thai if B EA UTIFUL hands, perfect style, i durable fabrics, fine finish, long wear the name Van Raalte has so many defini tions! You want every one of them in your Silk Gloves, so look for this name and know: they're double-tipped for double wear. VAN RAALTE Silk zloves 4 . Van Raalte Silk Underwear, Silk Hosiery and Veils Linen Cool and Delightful to Wear in Summer. Material Also Looks Better After Being Washed. T IS hard to tell which pleases women most in fine linen, the luxurious feel of it, or the distin guished look of it. Linen is, of course. the coolest and most delightful thing one can wear against the skin in hot weather, and it has a knack of look ing more satiny and lustrous every time it comes from the laundress. These linen undies are never starched perish the thought! That would poll the silky softness entirely. The linen is ironed while quite damp; and is ironed and ironed until per dry that is the secret. The linen garments are made up imply, with a bit of hand embroid- ry and narrow edging of filet lace fif hami-RCallnnlni;. There am elub- rate sets of cobwebby linen honey- 1 combed with lace insertions and mo ifs but the average woman prefers for' ordinary use ery simple styles. Handkerchief linen is used for this exclusive lingerie and hand-made garments are of course the most dis inguished ones. Linen is coolest for summer wear ecause of its smooth surface which eems to slide away from the skin. nd because of its capacity for ab sorbing moisture. There is no fab ric so absorbent as real linen. Many women test linen handkerchiefs and lingerie garments in the shop by touching the fabric with the tip of the tongue, and then turn the ma terial to see how quickly the moist spot shows through. It will show immediately if the fr.bric is of pure linen threads, and the wet place will spread very rapidly also. The most exclusive summer top coats are nlither belted polo coats nor draped, embroidered wraps. They are straight loose three-quarter coats ith exaggerated cuffs, soft, drapy collars and sleeves set Into an arm- hole. Thev are beautifully lined with soft silk and fall into graceful lines on the figure. Gray whipcord makes a smart coat of this kind, with lining of apple green chiffon taffeta. Some of the eumer frocks have ro settes Instead of sashbows. The rib bon of the sash is made into two pleated rosettes as big as saucers and the rosettes are placed close to gether at one side where all fash ionable sash-ends hang now. - The knitted suits for little boys are the cunningest things and are not at. all difficult to make on home knitting needles. Anybody who turned out war socks can manage the small blouse and breeches, and the knitting is in ribbed effect, the breeches blue with white trimming bands, and the waist white with blue trimming bands. Other color combi nations are possible and the worsted togs will be comfortable and good- f'ectly lookinK on a co' daJ at the shore ' ill ill; miuu 11 LHiun. front opened an inch to display a narrow vestee of lace. An Ameri can made frock of coffee brown taf feta repeats the style, with a band of ecru filet on the full overskirt and on the elbow sleeves. Perhaps the very prettiest taffeta dresses of spring are trimmed with ruffles. Some of these ruffles are pleated, others are gathered, and several frocks show bias ruffles which have an effect of fullness with very little gathering. In almost all cases ruffles are picot-edged rather Ing at a rounded-out neck and the than hemmed which does relieve one of a great deal of work if the frock is made at home ! A very pretty navy blue taffeta frock .has wide, stitched down tucks on the skirt and very narrow pleated ruffles standing up and falling down from the tucks. There are three tucks and it is quite a gay little skirt with its six rows of tiny ruffles. . More ruffles are used on the waist one on each elbow sleeve and ruffles turning back from the front opening which shows a narrow vest of crepe de chine, matching a crepe de chine sash in rale gray. And vests have- reversed themselves on these spring frocks. PORTLAND. Or., May 1. 1921. Dear Miss Tingle Please give recipe tor maaing Mexican pinoche and oblige. MRS. J. Penoche Two cups brown sugar. cup cream. 1 tablespoon Duner, i cup cnoppea nuts, a caywu ...... Mix together tne sugar nu Boil to the "soft ball." add tne otner ingredients. Let cool a nine, men beat until creamy and pour into greased tin. Cut in squares uti nearly cold.. If preferred drop in "blobs" on a greased platter and wrap in paraftine- paper. Dear Misa Tingle I cannot make decent gravy; won't you please help me. Even my chicken gravy is insipid. MRS. L. M. Gravy making is an art in itself and really "decent" gravy good in color, texture, flavor, and seasoning is unfortunately not too plentiful. It is difficult to know how to help you without writing a whole cook book. Do you use stock or water? Amazing Power of Bon-Opto To Make Weak Eyes Strong Doctor Says It Strengthens Eyesight 50 Per Cent in One Week's Time in Many Instances Careless Shampooing Spoils the Hair Soap should be used very carefully. If you want to keep you hair looking its best. Most soaps and preparei shampoos contain too much alkali This dries the scalp, makes the hair brittle, and ruins it. The best thing for steady use Mulsified cocoanut oil shampoo (which is pure and greaseless), and is better than anything else you can use. One or two teaspoonf u of Mulsl fled will cleanse the hair and scalp thoroughly. Simpiy moisten the hair with water .nd rub it In. 11 makes an abundance or rich, creamy lather, which rinses out easily, removing every particle of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. The hair dries quickly and evenly and It leaves the scalp soft, and tne nair rine ana silky, bright, lustrous, fluffy and easy to manage. You can get Mulsified cocoanut on shampoo at any pharmacy, it s very cheap, and a few ounces will supply every memoer or tne lamuy ror months. Be sure your druggist gives you Mulsified. Adv. A Sure Way to End Dandruff A Free Prescription Yon Caa Have Filled and Use at Home. Victims of eye strain and other eye weaknesses and those who wear glasses will be glad to know that, according to Dr. Lewis, there is real hope and help for them. Many whose eyes were failing say they have had thei- eyes restored by this remark able prescription and many who once wore glasses say they have thrown them away. One man says, after using it: "I was almost blind. Could not see to read at all. Now I can read everything without my glasses, and my eyes do not hurt any more. At night they would pain dreadfully. Now they feel fine all the time. It was like a miracle to me." A lady who used it says: "The atmosphere seemed hazy with or without glasses, but after using this prescription for fifteen davs everything seems clear. I can read even fine print without glasses." Another who used it says: "I was bothered with eye strain caused br overworking tired eyes which induced fierce headaches. 1 have worn glasses for several years, both for distance and work, and with out them I could not read my own name on an envelope sr the type writing on the machine before me. I can do both now. and have dis carded my long-distance glasses al together. I can count the fluttering leaves on the trees across the street now. which for several years have looked like a dim green blur to me. I cannot express my Joy at what it has done for me." It 's believed that thousands who wear glasses can now discard them in a reasonable time, and multitudes more will be able to strengthen their eyes so as to be spared the trouble and expense of ever getting glasses. Eye troubles of many descriptions may be wonderfully benefited by the use of this prescription at home. Go to any active drug store and get a bottle of Bon-Opto tablets. Drop one Bon-Opto tablet in a fourth of a glass of water and let it dissolve. With this liquid bathe the eyes two to four times daily. You should no tice your eyes clear up perceptibly right from the start and Inflam mation and redness will quickly dis appear. If your eyes bother you even a little it is your duty to take steps to save them now before it is too late. Many hopelessly blind might have saved their sight if they had cared for their eyes in time. Note: Another prominent physician to whom the above article waa aubmltted said: "Yes, the Bon-Opto prescriptiqn la truly a wonderful eye remedy. Its con Htitutenf ingredients are well known to eminent eye specialists and widely pre scribfd by them. I have used it very suc cessfully in my own practice on patients whose eyes were strained through over work or misfit glasses. 1 can highly rec ommend it in case of weak, watery, ach ing, smarting, itching, burning eyes, red llda, blurred vision or for eyes inflamed from exposure to smoke, sun. dust or wind. It is one of the very few preparations 1 feet shuuld be kept on hand tor regular use in almost every family." Bon-Opto referred to above is not a patent medicine or a secret remedy. It Is an ethical prep aration, the formula being printed on the package. The manufacturers guarantee It tdstrengthen eyesight 50 per cent in one week's time In many instances or refund the money. 1. can be obtained from any guutl druggist. Adv. There Is one sure way that has never failed to remove dandruff at once, and tnat is to dissolve It, then you destroy it entirely To do this, just get about four ounces of plain, common liquid arvon from any drug store (this is all you will need), apply it at night when retiring; use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it in gently with the fipger tips. By morning most, if not all, of your dandruff wil be gone, and three or four more applications will completely dissolve and entirely destroy every single sign and trace of It. no matter bow much dandruff you may have. You will find all itching and dig ging of the scalp will stop Instantly and your hair will be fluffy, lustrous, glossy, silky and soft and look and 'eel a hundred times better. Adv :1 oA White Undcr-arm is a necessity with this season's daring bathing costumes. Now. more than ever, women of daintr loileita and Delaione indispensable, DEL-A-TOr.ZI is t soft and lure rrepinllns for the removal of hair from toe neck, (ace or under-arma. Beauty specialists recom mend it because it leaves the saw clear, firm and perfectly sfflOOIO. Delatone ft eat to pplf simple direc tions with evetr jar. At Any Dmnju'j or Department Score .A fssasrfj YOU'LL GET RID OF BLACKHEADS SUM There Is one simple, safe and sur wav that never fails to set rid c blackheads and that is to dissolve them. To do this get two ounces of cal onlte powder from any drug store aurinkle a little on a hot. wet sdoiiii rub over the blackheads briskly- wash the parts and you will be sur Drised tow the blackheads have dls appeared. Big blackheads, little black heads, no matter where they ar simply dissolve and disappear, leavin the par:s without any mark whatevei Blackheads are stuffily a mixture c dust and dirt and secretions from th body that form in the pores of th skin, i'lnchlng and squeezing on I cause Irritation, make large pores an do not get the blackheads out nfte they become hard. The calonite now der and the water simply tissolve In- blackheads so they wash right ou leavin. the pores free i.nj clean an in their natural condition. Anvon troubled with these unsightly blein ishes should certainly try this slmoll mi thod. Adv. BUY NO DYE BUT i "DIAMOND DYES" FRECKLES Doa't Hide Tarm Wilt a Veil) Re move Them With OHilne Dou ble Strength. This preparation for the removaf of freckles is usually so successful In removing freckles and giving a clear, beautiful complexion that it is sold under guarantee to refund the money if It fails. Don't hide your freckles under a veil: get an ounce of Othine and re move them. Even the first few appli cations should show a wonderful Im provement, some of the lighter freckles vanishing entirely. Be sure to ask the druggist for the double strength Othine: It Is this that Is sold on the money-back guarantee.! Adv. Unless you ask for "Diamond Dyes yuu may get a poor dye that streak. spots, fades and ruins your good Every package of Diamond Dyes cot, tains simple directions for home dv Ing or tinting any new, rich, fndelee color Into garments or draperlea o any material. No mistakes! No fall ures! Adv. Not A Blemish ""J1? T e ml be coinpleilnn. Permanent and temporary Skin troubleOT(ecttirtoncMl Reduces unnatural color and corrects nwsy skins. Highly snMsepde. 5woT 5e tnr Trial c,M :fTPfyT. HOPKINS SON. New Yorl,