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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 21, 1920)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, MARCH 21, 1920 1 . .v. WEEK-END JOURNEY TO RESORTS FOR EASTER REQUIRES FASHION'S LATEST Smartest Things in New York and Paris Shops Are to Appear on Pretty Women, and Wares This Year Are More Entrancing Than. Ever, Say Those Who Know. pp. mm ssrar' 'MTm:i ilM'r III! V a t 4 --i. III n. ti-vi4: I ! K v; J lit AS&f f ?'' fsJ- "xj? n I tf I W, l & , ,v ; fe ?f i if j j j y x v . . . h t ' r ; 4 i f w FASHION in the east has a mecca of Its own. It Is Atlantic City at the Easter season. Just aa devotees of the far east prepare themselves for the pllgriiuage to mecca with green turbans, so does tbe fashion devotee of the eastern United States prepare for the Easter pilgrimage to Atlantic City with cer tain carefully selected articles of rai ment. Clothes for Atlantic City at this opening; function of the spring season roust be smart indeed brand new and highly expressive of Paris ideals. The experienced pilgrim knows ex actly what to take and her shopping hours beforehand are never undecided and puzzled hours. In a twinkling she knows whether a certain tempt ingly displayed costume will be "the thing" for a week-end at Atlantic City and discards anything that does not meet her approval. She knows, moreover, what weather conditions to prepare for. In March it may be bright and sunny and balmy-aired at Atlantic City, and then again, it may not. The east wind may sweep in from old ocean and a drizzling mist make the board walk no place for feathers and French-heeled pumps. And who knows? there may be a snow squall! So selection of raiment for the an nual pilgrimage is influenced by a knowledge of possible weather con ditions and the experienced journeyer to the Easter mecca will not have to sulk in ber hotel bedroom if the sun refuses to shine for the fetching eunny-day togs that are all she has with her. Veils and Footwear Important. Do not forget about the wind, when you prepare for your week-end at Atlantic City, and tbe same warning applies to a trip to the Oregon beaches. The wind is likely to blow briskly all the time from one direc tion or another and the boardwalk gets rhe whole force of it when it is from the sea. And the long piers there Indeed will you feel glad you provided yonrself with the prettiest footwear you could find and a big, swathing veil to keep your hair from Whipping about unbecomingly. This year buttoned boots on very dainty lines are the smartest thing yon can select to go with a tailored spring suit, or with a silk frock and wool topcoat. The boots may be of patent leather or of dark brown leather and the tops will be of fawn cloth that buttons smoothly over In step and ankle, giving the foot a well-dressed, formal appearance. As for the veil, it should be big and fluttery, floating out in a yard of length or draping gracefully around the figure as tar down as the waist line, or it should be a neat, tidy face veil, beautifully arranged over a rather small, compact hat. A face veil with a big. wide-brimmed pic ture hat is not good style and will be more than iou want to manage, in high wind on the boardwalk. A big hat and no veil at all. or a little hat and the biggest veil you can find that's the smart idea this spring. Dark-Blue Suite Prevail. Undoubtedly there will be hundreds of navy blue spring tallormades at Atlantic City this year. The dark-blue ' suits are legion. Paris seems to favor the navy tailleur above all otherB, ex- ' cept when the costume is very for mal and dainty, then a delicate tan shade is fancied. Several of the ex clusive Paris models in tailormades are in this dainty pale tan shade, but sucli a suit, of course, must be a spe cial costume not exposed to the dust of travel or to spring showers. The navy tricot or serge suit, on the other hand, is a practical invest ment that pleases the heart of every woman. And It may be made smart enough for any occasion by the right sort of hat, gloves and buttoned boots. A good many of the Atlantic City tailleurs will undoubtedly be Eton suits, for the Eton style is gaining favor every day, but there are plenty of attractive models with jackets in hip length. Many of these have the new very narrow belt and a stunning suit of dark-blue gabardine has the jacket trimmed with a panel of pin tucks in a close group, the tucks run ning vertically from neck to jacket edge. With these trig tailored suits will be worn blouses that are fluffy with Jabots and frills of net. lace or hand-embroidered handkercinef linen. And do not forget to have with you a good-looking topcoat in case Easter Sunday proves gray and sqially in weather. A smart topcoat of tan gab ardine, wool velour or covert, with a small hat, well veiled, and a pleated skirt of checked wool will be per fectly proper on the boardwalk If the weather is stormy. A bright day, however, will call for dainty tailleurs or silk frocks with graceful wraps. Frocks for Indoors Bright. Besides the boardwalk raiment there must be- several dainty frocks for Indoor wear, for luncheon and dinner hour and for the evening. Most of the hotels feature dancing in the evening and the big Saturday night balls demand very smart dance frocks. Here are three, ready to be packed for a sojourn at the Easter Mecca. One Is of peachblow chiffon taffeta with a bodice coming over the shirt. basque fashion, and the skirt ail afrill with tiny chiffon ruffles, picot edged. Another is of black satin with tie-around basque that drapes at the waistline and descends almost to the hip, tying in a sashbow at the back, At each side of the skirt are bouffant draperies of black tulle, and across the front of the skirt is an apron of cream lace weighted with Jet fringe. From side-to-side this frock has wide silhouette because of the extend ed tulle draperies, but' from back to front the silhouette is extremely flat ann narrow. The third evening frock Is of soft. ribbed silk in a delicate jade tone. The bodice, suspended from shoulder straps of jet beads, drapes low over the waistline and, under the bodice edge, at one hip, amusingly reminis cent of the tucked-under handker chief that old ladies used to display beneath the basque-edge, is thrust a tuft of black ostrich. The skirt is draped in long folds that give width at the hip but swathe the ankles closely and at the back the drapery descends in a narrow train. Many of the afternoon frocks have quite a decided decolletage which is usually relieved by a narrow collar of white lace or of eyelet embroidered linen in white or pale ecru. Chiffon taffeta is the favored material for these frocks, or georgette with nar row pleatings of the taffeta on tunic. skirt flounces and elbow sleeve. Al ways the elbow sleeve and its length may be just below the elbow, cover- ng the joint or several edges short of the elbow depending on the beauty of the arm. Tunics in tiers add grace to the spring dresses for indoor wear, and very often each tier Is set off by a narrow pleated frllL This daintv frock (9207) of brown georgette has pieaungs or Drown chiffon taffeta on the two tiers of the tunic. The un derskirt Is of brown taffeta and so is he bodice, with georgette sleeves nding in taffeta cuffs at the elbow. The sash is of double faced ribbon. brown and cerise and a little collar of cream net daintily finishes the neckline. Smart Evening Frock Needed. jui me son or Druiiant evening costume for a smart hotel in this dashing model (8275) in rich deep blues and lustrous black. Over black satin fall Louis XV draperies of net in two shades of gorgeous blue, an outer fall of black tulle softening the color. The bodice is embroidered with jet and sapphire beads and chains of these beads form the shoulder straps and the girdle, the latter hold ing down by the weight of the beads the fluffy tulle draperies. An ar resting evening frock, this! The more big and fluttery a veil Is, this spring, the smarter it is. No little yard and a half veils this year, but three or four-yard affairs that float and whip about in the breeze especially a boardwalk breeze at At lantic City. Narrow ribbons are stitched on a fimy Brussels net veil in most effective border design, and part of the border as the picture shows (8900) comes over the face in mysterious oriental suggestion. The veil is draped over a small, smart motoring hat. Veils are at a premium at Atlantic City at Easter eeason. The wind Is almost sure to blow and whipped- about tresses spoil the effect of any costume. Here is a well arranged veil (8199) which is adjusted over one of the new spring hats of silk with straw used as a trimming re versing the old idea of straw as i basis. Beautifully is this well ad justed. Not much danger of its wearer returning home frowsy and unkempt and "all blown about" in this well-fitting hat and closely draped veil. Long Collars Being Used on New Blouses. Sometimes Vest Effect Is Added t .Square Neck Opening la Mew Type of Apparel. F TOU make your spring blouses X at home, remember to have the col lar come well down at the front and keep it quite narrow at tbe top where it goes around the neck. These long, narrow collars are smart Just now. bometlmea they give a square neok opening, a little vest effect running up between the sides of the collar. Sometimes the opening is V shaped, the collar meeting at the point of the V. New blouses of high distinc tion are of very fine handkerchief linen, sheer as batiste, but of course much more beautiful and lustrous in weave because of the linen threads and the long collars are of the same material, delicately edged with hand crochet lace, narrow filot or a tiny hemstitched band of linen in color. When this dainty line of color is used on the collar, it appears also on the cuffs and in small covered buttons down the front of the blouse. Such mod-els. of tailored type, have long sleeves with cuffs at the wrist. Tunic blouses and kimono blouses with sur plice fronts that tie around ths waist in a sash often havo loose elboTT sleeves. Such blouses are made of printed crepe, of chiffon, of georgette and of dotted swies trimmed with lace. New Tablecloth Camou flages Square Table. Circular Appearance Gives by Use of Clearly Defined Design. m. X square table that gives the effect of a round table. The design is circu lar, its edge coming just about to the edge of an ordinary square dining table, and the pattern is clearly de fined, leaving just the triangular sections at the four corners of the table in plain unpattcrned damask. Candlesticks may be set In these plain corner sections, and the circular design gives a round-table effect. An other new pattern shows the table cloth well covered by an elaborate design which leaves a circle of plain damask in the center like a center piece. And no extra centerpiece of em broidered linen or lace Is necessary with this handsome cloth. Indeed it would spoil the effect. This Is the time of times to purchase table dam asks, for stocks, so depleted during the war, are being filled up with new and beautiful' patterns. To house wives who have been mending and darning their table linens and having their wornout tablecloths laundered with greatest care, these fresh, beau tiful new damasks, coming in so plentifully now, look very attractive indeed. Small Breakfast Linen Set Cheery One. Half-Bleached Art Outfit Is Moat Attractive One. Their Economic Service cuts your corset-bill in halt because Nemos wear twice as long as others. Their Hygienic Service is Unchangeable, Invaluable, Indispensable. ( Their Style Service Up4o-date, Individual and Artistic Ertry Nea Csnet is aa Erfra-Yalat without considering its priceless Hygi enic Features which cost yon aotluDg. Self-Reducing Corsets remould Stout women; made in 19 models. $5.00 to $10.00 Wonder lift Corsets prevent and CUTS certain physical weaknesses and giva graceful lines, 11 different models. $7.00 to $15.00 KopSsrrtes Corsets improve tbe stria of any woman, 14 models. ' $1.00 to $10.50 41 Other Styles $4.00 to $13.00 Good SlortM Eoeryichtra II REMOULD THE FIGURE ABOVE THE WAIST AS THE CORSET DOES BELOW J50 in $4QQ NEfTC TYSl N ICTASMI0 N" INSTITUTE". NEViTY0R)0 5? Italian expert officer a new dirigible which may have its trial trips in a short time. The regular complement of the' fly ing station adjoining the naval sta tion is 400 officers and men. SELF-SUPPORTING STUDENTS ARE NUMEROUS AMONG GIRLS Outside Occupations Not Regarded as Any Bar to Taking Prominent Part in JIany Activities Connected With College Life. 0KEGO.V AGRICULTURAL COL LfeQE, Corvallis, March 21. (Special.) Whirr! Whirr ! Whirr! What Is that rythmlo noise heard as she walks along the corridor? Only the whirr of an electric motor at tached to a sewing machine and oper ated by a small, dark-haired girl witn snappy black eyes, who makes and designs dresses for college girls who are too busy to do the work for them-, selves or who can afford to pay someone to do their sewing for them. She gets so much to do that she is dated up weeks in advance. This girl is only one of the dozens of young women who are earning their way through college either in Whole or in part. , All of the dining room help In both Waldo and Cauthorn, the women's halls of residence, are students who receive pay In proportion to the num ber of hours they put in. The average for monthly checks to these girls Is $23.50. Other women take cars of the halls and parlors. Some girls living in. ths halls work three hours a day for residents of Corvallis in return for which they receive their board. Papfr Revision Not Papular. Who is ths responsible-looking girl with the bundle of "blue books'" un der her arm making her way toward the hall? She Is only one of the many students who earn considerable money revising and correcting "ex papers of overworked "profs." Por this shs receives 40 cents an hour. It is hard to find students to do this work since, contrary to what might be expected, the work 'is not popular. Girls with a knowledge of stenog raphy and typewriting find plenty of opportunity to turn their spare time into cash, receiving from 30 to 60 cents an hour. Downtown stores and offices furnish employment for a con siderable number, especially on Sat urdays. "Chem sharks" of a previous year help out not only their pocket books but also help solve ths problem of lack of Instructors and assistants in the laboratories. Down on the "press bench" during the basketball game one woman Is seen with the many men who are re porting the game for either college or Portland papers. She is ths only woman sport writer on the campus and handles all of the college news for one Portland paper. She Is a senior, president of her sorority, member of several important com mittees and last year was a vice president of the Btudent body. One other woman news correspondent handles general news for the Oregon Ian and makes more than spending money besides participating In other student activities. Assistant From Senior Class. House managers of the different sororities In almost every case re ceive their board in return for the work they do. Some houses follow ths plan of having an assistant man ager elected from the Junior class who Is getting ready for the man ager's Job the next year. In this case the financial returns are divided In proportion to the time put into the work. Trained stenographers have no difficulty in finding more work than they can do. One girl earns about $50 by putting in half time and by working In ths summer earns 1100 a month. Competent students to correct test papers are Impossible to find in sufficient numbers. Residents of the city complain that they can not secure help from among the stu dents in the amount desired. Busy college women there is no distinction socially between those who work for their "board and kjeep" and those who do not. Some mem bers of the Forum, ths student honor society, others who are members 01 professional honor societies, are among those who proudly label their registration cards "self-supporting. Insane Patients on Strike, HONOLULU. Patients at the ter ritorial hospital fo rths Insane, who have been working in the tailor shop making clothes for themselves and ths other patients, have gone on trike and have refused to put in an- I other stltoh unless they are paid Xor their labor. This is the statement of Dr. F. E. Trotter, president of the board of health. The board is con siderlng employing outside help to do the hospital sewing abandoned by the Inmates, Dr. Trotter said. BOBBED HAIR IS PASSE Soft Waves of Jlew Style Form At tractive Picture. PARIS. The new style of halr- dre;sing launched by Parisian estab lishments revives the big soft chig non pinned low on the nape of the neck. 0 Parted on the right side of the head the hair Is brushed back in soft waves forming a beautiful and be coming frame to the temples and brows. It is a far cry from the short "bobbed" locks of the past two seasons. First American Robber. Indiananolla Neva. It is believed that the rubber tree was discovered by a Jesuit mission ary, Father Manceide Esperanca. He found it while on one of his apostolic Journeys among the Cambelas Indians of South America, and gave it the singular name of the seringueira, be cause ho remarked that the savages used the sap of this tree, which hard ens quickly, to meke rude bottles that were shaped like a syringe. Bnrglar Give Excuse. Detective (2 A M.) Hey, youse! Wotcher hanging around this ere front door fer? Supposed Burglar I'm waiting for th' lady inside to git asleep. We're married. j? si i s3aEi Appear At Tour Best Instantly If voa receive a sudden caller or an arferpected in vitation you can feel con fident of always appearing at your best In but a few moments It renders to your skin a wonderfully pure. soft complexion that is beyond comparison. I f7ft e r i -n, ,r -. For the small breakfast table In a three-and-bath apartment, when one does not want to lay a formal table more than once a day, since books and lamp must be removed from the large center table so that the damask sets cheerfully embroidered in bright color are delightful. One of these sets is of half-bleached art linen, a soft beautifully woven Irish linen in a creamy tone. On the table square and on all the small breakfast napkins are embroidered little baskets filled with flowers, one hasket to each napkin In a corner. And four baskets on the square one in each corner. First buttonhole all the pieces at the edge, turning a very narrow hem first and doing the but tonholing with blue worsted. The bas kets are worked with black worsted and the flowers are done with gay hued wool, rose pink, scarlet and blue. with green for the leaves. A few French knots in a group will make each flower and the leaves should be worked solid, falling over the edge of the graceful little basket. Do the basket in a criss-cross lattice stitch and of course make a tall looped handle standing above the tiny basket. ' Man Handed, Later Acquitted. VIEXXA. A court here has Just ac quitted a man named Breuer who was hanged in 1914 after conviction on a charge of communicating with the enemy. After the armistice hi relatives demanded that the case be reopened on the ground that the wom an who accused him was hysterical and that the affliction had since be come acute. 100,000 Acres in Project. LETHBRIDGK, Alta. It Is esti mated that the cost of the new Irri gation project north of the town known as the Lethbrtdir northern ir. HANGAR WORK IS RUSHED 600 Tons Material Required House Dirigible. to CAPE MAT, N. J. The English dirigible balloon R-3S, which tbe United Stataes navy purchased from the British government for $3,500,000, will be housed at the Cape May navy yard air station. Work has been be gun for the erection of a large han gar which will be completed within the next two months. A railroad line Is being constructed to the site of the building -in order that the 600 tons of material necessary for the hangar may be placed on the ground speedily. At the present hangar, from which the C-5 went out on its disastrous trip last spring, there is being put together under the direction of an Dandruff Surely Destroys the Hair Girls, if you want plenty of thick, beautiful, glossy, silky hair, do, by all means, get rid of dandruff, for it will starve your hair and ruin it if you don't It doesn't do much good to try to brush or wash It out. The only sure way to get rid of dandruff is to dis solve It. then you destroy It entirely. To do this, get about four ounces of ordinary liquid arvon. apply it at night when retiring, use enough to moisten the scalp and rub it in gently with the finger tips. By morning most, if not all, of your dandruff will be gone, and three or four mora ap plications will completely dissolve and entirely, destroy every single sign and trace of it. You will find, too, that all Itching and digging of the scalp will stop, and your hair will look and feel a hundred times better. Tou can get liquid ar'on at any drug store. It is inexpensive and four ounces is all you will need, no matter how much dan druff you have. This simple remedy never fails. Adv. Removes the Roots of Superfluous Hair (Entirely Sew Method) V ipi!P CRIB SHEET s M A11 tike efficient feaiuxes of a lare rubber blanket in a. rubber sbeet of crib size W11 placed eyeless make ir possible io sbreich. &ie shcei smootti and tie ii in place--a fearure wnick adds much io Us length of service Trie Kleinerf Crib Skeer is rubber on barb sides -look for tbe name ibar guarantees you double "Wear ' IBJeinertRutrGbJewlCork rlgntlon district will be htwen $1.- I 000.000 and 14. oon. ooo. The scheme emhrarps Mhnut 10ft. one sr. TRY THIS PERFECT HAIR TINT FREE Coupon Brings Trial Package of "Brownalone." wnr RrnR c.rat n wnt We want every woman to know not only how easily she ran lnt gray, fadod, streuk'M hair heritolf but how truly wonderful is the rosult produced hn Drownatone is tiKeri fr tin purpose. Thousands of women l resily know and mo this pnrteot hair tinting preparation but othr thou sands have yet to learn, linni actual experience, how marveiouwly it re stores to srsy, fadd slid bleached hair Its original beauty and glory. This Pretty Girl Defies Age By Using Ordinary Buttermilk To Beautify Her Complexion . . r -1.1 J4 m .a J '- s .A . . , ' i. It's Ro Kaay Now to Have Beaslifal llalr." uv "Brownatone" Is ths one safe, rrlla hie. hm to kddIv hair tint for churn ing gray, faded, or bleached hlr is any beautiful shads of brown orI black. I Absolstrly Harmless. CresselrsK. odorless, essy to apply a comb or brueli Is all you need. In stant in rexulis and kuh run teed to contain no lad. sulphur, nilvrr, slnr. mercury, aniline, coal tar products, or anything to Injure tne nair or mm j r. most tenner icai. rar Fupcrior in . callofl "restorer-." and harmful "dye." -. ', ouiu .'iu ' ' ' - , drusalsts everywhere. Twn cniors: ,t "Light to Medium Itrown." and"Dark K - . ; II. IS. ltefuse all subllliiti. lined .'- n,t Inrlnra,! bv thotlHanda of women h ' in society and ths buainsss world. i. ' ... .. fwii iirl. i r penal r . -w ..... k ' Fend only llo with this coupon for 7' Fres trial pacKsse ana neipiui Does 1st on ths care of ths hair. Mall This t'ospos . Th Kenton rtisrnia.sl Co., 50 Ooppln HMg.. Covington, Ky. Enclosed find II cents (to covi-r postage packing and war tail for Trial Package of Drownatone. Light to Medium Ilrown or Dark Hrown to lilac k. Mark with X .had, winiwl and mail with ynur (till nam an4 Rt4tr)w. "Seeing is believing!" When your own eyas see the roots come out, you know the entire hair is gone, not merely the surface hair. 'You know that hair can never re turn. ' Yes. it is really true that the new pbe- lactine method removes superfluous hair completely roots and all without tbe least injury, leaving- the skin soft, smooth, hairless. You do the work In a Jiffy, in your own home, witnoui assistance. it does away with numerous and expensive visits to the electrolysis expert. Does away with depilatories or shavhis; at fre quent intervals. Nothing like it ever known Derore. reriectiy narmiess, oaor lcss. non-lrrltatlng. Get a stick of phe- lactine, follow the easy instructions, and havt ths surprise of your life. Adv. Telia Drsaalsts Sot t Tske Anyoss's Money laltss This Dellahttsl New VanlshM Cream Quickly Shows a Decided Improve ment. Try it Touay at Oh Kxpease. Buttermilk Cream creates beauty almost like manic. The most won derful thing about it is the fact that whilst it turns tno ounni, less complexion to radiant beauty and makes red or rough hands or arms enowy white, yet there is not the slightest sign of its use after applica tion. It actually vanishes from sight and the most heated atmosphere will not produce the least shinineas or grvasineas of the skin. No matter whether you are troubled with a poor complexion, wrinkles, pufflness around the eyes, freckles, crowsfeet or lines around the mouth. Ugly fingernails, or jut a simple roughness of ths faos, hands or arms caused by wind or sun. you will find that any or all of these troubles will ouicklv disappear with the use of Howard's Buttermilk Cream. m nrova this to vour comoiete sat isfaction, get a small quantity today tts'Aii AittiAi is iis!&i . , : Aitl mm ill!! M, if tf. 111 Beautiful actress says: "A short mansasa with Howard s Buttermilk with ths understanding that tne pur- Cream at night before retiring is all chase money will be cheerfully lunaea to any aissausuea user. rs- that is necessary." Ths Owl Lru Co. oaA supply you. Adv. Cocoanut Oil Makes a Splendid Shampoo r r '. If you want to keep hair In good condition bs cartful what you wash It with. . Most soaps and prepared shampoos -contain too much alkali. This dries '. the scalp, makes the hair brittle and r.. '" is vary harmful. Mulslfled cocoanut , ; oil shampoo, which Is purs and k. (crease I ens. Is much better than any ' . thing else you ran use ror shampoo ing, as this can't possibly Injurs ths hslr. Simply moisten your hair with water and rub It In. One or two teaspoonfuls will make an abundance of rich, cresmy lather, snd clssnsss the hair and scalp thoroughly. Ths lather rinses out easily and removes svery particle of dust, dirt, dandruff and excessive oil. Ths hair dr'.sa quickly and evenly, and It leaves It fine and silky, bright, fluffy and easy to manage. v Tou can get Mulslfled cocoanut oil shampoo at most any drug store. Is very cheap, and a few ounce enough to last everyont In ths family for months. Adv. 1 Oil S. ia 7r
