Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 15, 1918)
TIIE SUNDAY OKEGOXIAX, PORTLAND, . SEPTEMBER 13, 191S. 5 LATEST FRENCH CREATIONS IN STREET FROCKS ARE CAPTIVATING Lavish Use of For Trimming on Tailored Suits la Evidenced Gray Colorings This Season Predominate. 1; .17a . fvi;ii ' a TJV;l: W- uqji ; 14- o; I lr ' r liPMSil f M - usually popular so that the larger size does not matter so very much In a pud ding-loving family. A plainer suet pudding for family use In war times is made as follows: - Suet -pudding No. 2, for keeping. For one pudding allow one scant cup finely shredded suet, one cup molasses, one cup milk, two and one-half cups gra ham flour, one-half cup white flour one and one-half teaspoons salt, one scant teaspoon soda, one teaspoon cinnamon, one-half teaspoon each ginger, cloves and nutmeg, cne egg, well beaten, one to three cups raisins or other dried fruits, or fruit and nuts mixed. The dried fruits may all be omittn if very plain pudding Is desired. Mix and steam as above. The above foundation may be varied by using one cup brown sugar and two and one-half level teaspoons baking powder in place of the molasses and soda if the molasses flavor is not liked, and by changing the amount and kind of spices. Cocoa and vanilla or grated chocolate might be used for flavoring such a mixture when made without spice or fruit. When chocolate is used one-half cup suet might well be enough. One cup stiff Jam or orange marma lade with two and one-half teaspoons baking powder might be used in place of the molasses , soda, spices and dried fruits. The "war economy" suet puddings. made with ground potatoes and car rots, to economize flour, are sometimes also suitable for "putting up" in tins as suggested above; but the plainer ones do not keep as well as the richer kind. and require more care in cooking and sealing. fines T-rjmjirjjTp' OS i"Ur 0JZ Jrv nSJSuT'Si LOVELY In coloring Is this tailored street frock from Bernard, and Odette has added the captivating draped turban of gray velvet with a coral ornament to give one dashing note of color to the demure gray cos tume. This Is another of the qulckly-put-on dresses which are the fad In Paris now. The fastening comes at the right shoulder and waistline, the mole akin collar hooking In place afterward. The drapery of the bodice, confined tinder a shaped girdle, also draped In reverse direction, is a notable feature. Panels give tKe long lines and nar row silhouette, now fancied, and many rarletles of panel trimming are shown in the new French fashions. The suit pictured is of gray wool velour with panel and trimming bands of mole, dyed muskrat and flat, smoked gray' Sfejr-c To TeSJ JocJrett buttons outlining the pocket motifs. Gray spats match the suit and a vivid touch of color is given by a velvet tor pedo turban In dahlia red with a plume in taupe shade. The lavish use of fur trimming on tailored suits is evidenced in this Brandt costume, and a striking French touch is the omission of any fur in the way of cuffs, while fur Is over loaded on other portions of the coat. The suit Is built of dark green wool velour and the panel pockets and re- vers are of beaver. One can Imagine how warm and cosy the coat would be with the beaver-faced fronts lapped In double-breasted fashion, and the col lar turned up about the throat. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS WALDPORT, Or. July S3. Is there any way In which suet emu b put away and kept for -future use In net puddings, etc.? Or could the suet puddlnics be made and pat away? If so, please give me a good re cipe and directions. MRS. M. K. C. IT IS an excellent plan to clarify net even when you are not necessa rily Intending to keep it for a long time, since the very finely shredded suet, obtainable from a cake of clari fied suet gives a better texture and goes further than the unclarified chopped suet. The clarified suet will keep a long time In a cold place. A very convenient way of storing it is to make it into square "bricks by pouring while warm into square bis cuit fcoxes or loaf pans. These "bricks' of suet should then be wrapped closely in heavy paraffin paper and kept if possible in tin boxes. In our mild. moist Oregon climate they need In spectlon for mold growth from time to time. Suet to be kept for some months Is safer if sealed In Jars with a little paraffin on top, though this is much less convenient for frequent use. Clarified Suet for Winter. Cut tip rood fresh suet, removing all particles of meat or tainted skin and as much of the stringy connective tissue as is convenient. Chop or grind this cut-up suet, using either a food chopper or a knife, according to circumstances. Put it Into a double boiler or Into a kettle, et well on the back of the stove and allow to try out very slowly. Rapid trying out or overheating the fat will spoil it. VV hen the "scraps are very well melted down but not brown drain off all the clear fat into a square tin rinsed In cold water or into clean jars iaccordtng to the method of Btorage you intend) as suggested above. The remaining "scraps" may either be al lowed to cool in a cake and then be chopped for Immediate use in puddings or may be heated more highly until they brown and may then have the fat Dressed from them with a potato mash er. This "second run" fat will not be of such good quality or flavor as that extracted at a lower temperature, but can be used for many purposes. The brown scraps themselves may be pounded and used in a plain spice and raisin cake or In meat dressings or in some varieties of corn bread or Boston brown bread. Sometimes It is advantageous to com bine some melted suet fat (too hard wken cold for ordinary shortening pur poses) with some vegetable oil. such as corn oil or cottonseed oil, in about equal parts to make a good homemade 'compound shortening" for ordinary purposes. Or it can be combined with the softer parts of beef fat or with clarified chicken or goose oil to make a shortening of lardlike consistency. The hard consistency, however. Is usu ally best for puddings or mincemeat or Xor long keeping. Large numbers of suet puddings can be made at one time if desired and if given long steaming (six to ten hours, according to size and container) In tins, moulds with covers or even in the old fashioned scalded and floured "pud ding cloth" or "pudding bag" can be kept in a cool dry cellar for many months. The old English custom was to boll perhaps several dozen puddings some weeks before Christmas and then hang them la their bags in the cellar to be used throughout the year on "high days and holidays." Last time I was in England I ate, in September, at the house of a north country friend, a very excellent plum pudding that had been boiled In Decem ber of the previous year. This pudding was boiled IX hours in a bowl with a folded cloth tied over it. So much suet boiled into the cloth that it Xormed a sort of airtight lid to seal the pudding very much as parafin might do. To my mind, however, the modern way of steaming the pudding in tin palls or other containers like Boston brown bread and putting parafin over the joining of lid and tin is not only safer but gives a lighter pudding, more at tractive both in texture, flavor and ap pearance than the 'boiled-ln-the-cloth type. In regard to recipes I don't know whether you want puddings of the richer or of the plainer kind. One sin gle foundation mixture can be con siderably varied by the use of differ ent dried fruits and flavoring spices. For "plum pudding" ordinary raisins. small, seedless raisins or currents, can dled peel and spices are used with or without a few blanched almonds. Chop ped figs, dates, prunes, or cherries sub stituted for these will give puddings of a very different appearance and charac ter. A little orange or lemon rind gra ted may well be substituted for spices in a fig or date pudding, and in the others the amount of spice should be greatly reduced, so as not to over power the characteristic flavor of the fruits. Orange marmalade lemon and Jam used with a rather plain foundation give another type of suet pudding. Then there are the suet puddings made with molasses and spices and little or no fruit, (something like gingerbread), and the quite plain suet mixtures made with fresh or canned or soaked dried fruit or Jam Into large "dumplings" or into roly-polies. This last type can not, of course, be "put up" for keeping. Let me know If the following are not what you wanted: English plum puaerng ror keeping. One pound each sifted bread crumbs, flour, finely chopped suet, sugar, grated carrots, two pounds seeded raisins (cut or not as preferred), one pound seedless raisins, one-half pound mixed candied poel, (may be prepared at home) very finely shredded or chopped, one half pound blanched and cut almonds, (may be omitted) one level tablespoon cinna mon, one teaspoon each cloves, alspice and mace or nutmeg, two teaspoons salt. grated rind of one orange and one lemon, (or one teaspoon lemon extract) one-half teaspoon almond extract, (may be omitted seven to nine (one pound) well beaten eggs, (according to size). The older recipes contained brandy or wine, but a little fruit Juice, (orange Juice, grape Juice or the Juice from canned fruit or sweet pickles) will do just as well. Use one-half to one cup according to taste and the consistency of the mixture. This, of course, will vary according to the amount of mois ture in the bread and in the dried fruits. Sometimes a little milk or water may be needed to secure the "stiff drop bat ter" consistency; but usually If the bread crumbs are fresh made and if carrots are used, extra moisture is not needed. The carrots are used to give bulk. moisture, sweetness and a dark, rich color to the pudding. Their own flavor Is not perceptible In the finished pro duct, and they tend to Improve the tex ture as well. In pudding of this richer type for long keeping, baking powder is usual ly omitted, but some makers add one third teaspoon soda with the idea of checking incipient rancidity in the fat. Wash the fruit first and let dry and swell a little In a cool oven over night, then mix the dry Ingredients, add all the other Ingredients, stir very thor oughly, place in well greased tins, fill ing not more than two-thirds ful. Put on the lids, and steam six to 10 hours, according to size. Remove and seal completely with adhesive plaster or (when cold) with melted parafin or bottling wax. Keep in a cool, dry place and reheat In a steamer or kettle when wanted for use. It is usually a good plan to make puddings of various sizes such as may be served to different numbers of people on different occa sions; but cold, left-over plum pudding or fried left-over plum pudding are PORTLAND. Or.. SeDt 1. Dear Miss Tingle I would be glad If you will give me a good recipe for potato yeast. Thank ing you. MRS. S. C. T. I hope the following is what you want. If preferred, the potatoes may be boiled and mashed smooth In potato water instead of being grated: Potato Yeast. Pare four or five large potatoes, cover with cold water to pre vent . discoloration. Grate, and stir them as grated, into two quarts of water, kept boiling on the stove. Cook ten minutes after all the potato Is in. atlr In one-fourth cup salt and three fourths cup granulated sugar. Let cool to about 68 degrees F. and then stir In one pint yeast from a previous mak ing, or, better, one cake fresh, com pressed yeast, or one dry yeast cake softened in one-half cup water. Let stand about 24 hours at a temperature of 68 degrees F., stirring it down when ever it becomes light and frothy. Store In fruit jars in a cool place, filling them only half full. Keep one jar carefully unopened in the coolest place to start the next batch of yeast. In breadmak- ng use one-half cup of liquid yeast to one pint liquid, or more if you wish to hurry" short-process bread. Andther way is to boil potatoes In the ordinary way. mashing them in the water In which they were boiled and adding more boiling water to make two quarts. After that proceed as above. Some makers boil one tablespoon dried hops In a bag with the potatoes; others use a little ginger. These both tend to check undesirable ferments in the mix ture. If you have "poor luck" with your bread some day, instead of your usual success, your yeast may perhaps be to blame. In which case throw away your old yeast and make some with new "starter" in the form of a fresh yeast cake or a cup of yeast from some successful breadmaker. ARRANGEMENT OF DRAPERY MAKES STREET FROCK APPEAR AS COAT Material Is Green Wool Jersey, With Collar of Black Astrachan "Dress-in-a-Hurry" Model Is Late Paris Creation. New Fabrics Are Expensive But Superbly- Beautiful. Question of Procuring Wool Fabrics) Neit Year loubtful One. THE new fabrics are expensive, but they are superbly beautiful; and one should buy the best to be had; for there Is no telling whether any ma terial with wool in Its weave will be procurable next year. Coat fabrics Include duvet de laine, wool velour, bollvia, suede trlcotine and velvet. For frocks the favorites are tricotine, sil vertone and velvet. The new colors are henna, first (henna is now the rage), African browns, paprika, pigeon gray, fog gray, taupe, navy and black. A I good deal of black will be worn smartly made and definitely not mourning; for anything that suggests mourning garb as under the ban, pa triotic women having pledged them selves to abstain from mourning gar ments, and to wear only the symbolic sleeve band of black cloth. This, be cause quantities of mourning in the streets could not but have a deterrent effect on courage and spirit to win the war. I If f fl ' ' ) A RARE DOLL OUTFIT WILL BE WELCOME TO FEMININE KIDDIE Box Made to Look Like Dressing Case, With Treasure Inside, Satisfying . . Present for Little GirL ' . J f - ' 1 t " !U Ring-tall opossum steps to first place as a fashionable pelt and there is a decided dash about this well mark ed fur when it is used in combination with good looking fabrics. Taup"e wolf Is an economical fur, if one cannot af ford fox, but fox will endure for many seasons while wolf soon loses Its lus ter and its appearance of quality. . The new tailored suits make their wearers look slim as wands. Skirts are very, very narrow and coats are gracefully long, clinging to the hips but flaring a little at the knee. Shoul ders are close-fitting and sleeves rath er tight. The whole silhouette is long. slender and lithe, and fortunate the woman whose figure carries out the idea the suit is Intended to convey. Plain, tailored suits of heavy whip cord to be worn with a separate fur scarf or stole are exceedingly good looking for run-about wear during the day. A Tall Order. A certan Irish sergeant in one of tne home regiments was exceedingly wroth when he discovered that one of his men had paid a visit to the regi mental barber and was minus his mus tache. He immediately went up to him. "Private Jones," he roared, "who on earth gave yez permission to get that mustache off?" "Nobody," answered Jones unconcernedly, "only I thought it would Improve my appearance." "Im' prove your appearance, wld a face like yours! bawled the enraged sergeant. "If yez don' hlv it on again at the afternoon parade today there'll be trouble I" CUNNING arrangement of drapery makes this street frock appear to be a coat over a draped costume and this is the very latest Paris whimsey The material Is green wool jersey with effective trimming contrast the collar of black astrachan and bands of black braid. The belt, made of a strip of braid, is particularly smart. The draped skirt could scarcely be narrower than it Is at the ankle, but there is plenty of graceful flare above. A Eulloz costume, this. In Paris they are quite wild over this latest Lanvln frock, called "coup de vent," or drees-In-a-hurry, to translate freely. Everybody is Jn a hurry these days and here is a street frock that can be slipped on in a minute and a half. The material Is gray wool velour, the lines are extremely simple and the frock has no lining. Bands of navy cloth, heavily stitched, and touches of embroidery in royal blue make - the gray costume pleasingly smart. By the way, this Is the new fog gray, a color launched by Lanvln. Narrow enough,' in all conscience, is this frock of African brown velvet from Bernard; a trying frock to wear, un less one happens to be slim and lithe of figure. Flawless tailoring is evi dent, as in every creation of Bernard's; and the simple, straight lines are clev erly relieved by rows of buttons and by corded seams and paneling. The bodice opens at the neck in turned-back revers and there Is a turnover collar of the velvet mounted separately on a neckband of brown ribbon. Sashends at the back of the waist, not visible in the picture, add much to the grace of the costume Shorter Skirts, Lower Shoe Tops in Prospect. Spiral Pott ecu Saga-ested ' Out of Predicament, aa Way NOW here's a how-de-do, with Paris suddenly deciding on shorter skirts than ever, just when all the ehoe manu facturers have solemnly agreed to ad here to an eight-Inch height for boot tops! Paris asserts that 6hort eklrts con serve fabric, and doubtless they do to an appreciable degree, but the news is rather disconcerting after all the Fall footwear is finished and stowed away in the shops ready to be tried on and purchased. Short skirts, with tall boots, look very smart and dashing; but. short skirts above low-topped boots, with several inches of stocking showing between, are quite another matter. Will women take to spiral puttees? And If puttees for femininity, what will be the next step? One of the Sunday papers recently printed a very amusing cartoon, de picting modern woman several modern women in various sorts of trousered costumes dancing joyously on the gra.ve of Mrs. Grundy, the dame having been, presumably, nnally killed off and lall at rest by the progress of woman's emancipation during war time. Mrs. Grundy, with her old-time ideas about genteel and lady-like costume. Is dead; no doubt about that, but it Is a question whether women will take seri ously to trousers. They adore donning trousers Just to show they can when the mood strikes them, but there Is something about the feminine petticoat that will keep it from being banished any woman will admit that. Meanwhile, what is to be done about this matter of shorter frocks and boot- tops that have dropped to eight inches? The coming season will tell, -and it is likely to be an interesting question. Many Women to Wear Last Year's Dresses Made Over. Velvet Frock Will Be on Par Witk Wool-Woven One Woolen Fabrics to Be Scarce. than making last year's costume "do" for, according to the authorities, it may frorlr mav he had Later on the re X furbishing process will be necessary; this seasun it will be wisest to lay in what one can Velvet is to be worn more than ever, and this season a velvet frock will be on a par with a wool-woven one, for while wool fabrics have mounted in price, velvets have remained about the same So the woman who has always longed for a velvet dress should be able to please herself this season with no pricks of conscience; and there is no more beautiful and becoming material for a Winter frock than velvet. It needs little trimming and the new fash ions call for a most moderate amount of fabric. After the last census in 1910, the cen ter of population was found to be in the city of Bloomington, Ind. The center of population is the point about which there are supposed to be just as many people east as there are west, and just as many south aa north. Home Complexion Peeler Works Wonders W ITH fabric prices soaring as they are at this moment a good many women -are looking over last year's wardrobes and trying to decide which costumes with a bit of trimming here or an alteration there, will answer for wear this Winter And though this may seem an eminently economical proced ure, it may not turn out to .be as practical as it seems It is certain that wool fabrics will be much scarcer and much higher priced next year than they are now; indeed, one hears on good authority that no more wool fab ric will be' obtainable after this Win ter for some time to come and that most of the cold-weather fabrics will be mostly "shoddy" a technical term for a substitute in the weave So it behooves the prudent woman to secure what wool-woven material she can right now A new wool frock this Winter will be better economy To keep the face, neck, arms and hands truly beautiful and youthful in appearance, the treatment which seems most sensible is one which will actu ally remove the skin Itself immediately It begins to age, fade, coarsen or dis color. The only known treatment which will do this, aside from a pain ful, expensive surgical operation, is the application of ordinary mercolized wax. which is as harmless as it is effective. The wax is put on at night. Just as you apply cold cream, and washed off in the morning. It absorbs the dead and half-dead surface skin in almost invisible flaky particles, a little each day no discomfort being experienced. With the disappearance of the old cuticle, the newer, healthier skin under neath gradually appears, richly beauti ful with the flush of youth. This mer colized wax, which you can get at any drug store in original package, is in deed a veritable wonder-worker. Adv. This Will Remove Hair or Fuzzy Growths (Toilet Tips.) A safe, certain method for ridding 1 the skin of ugly, hairy growths is as follows: Mix a paste with some pow dered delatone and water, apply to hairy surface about two minutes, . then rub off, wash the akin and the hairs are gone. This Is entirely harmless and seldom requires repeating, but to avoid disappointment it is advisable to see that you get . genuine dela tone. Adv. No, wonder this fascinating doll's outfit could not wait for Santa Claus but had to make her .bow in mid Summer, in time to be hailed joyously as the best week-end present yet for a feminine kiddle in the home one la going to stop at. Imagine any little girl's delight at receiving thla interest ing treasure box. shaped and covered to look like a smart dressing-case, and upon throwing back the lid. to discover not only, an adorable, cuxly-lialred, dolly. but also . a complete and satisfying layette! The doll has two charming costumes, one for the street, the other of filmy organdy and lace; and to match the lat ter there is a shade hat of pale pink pique with a pink ribbon. In the tray of the - dressing-case are various belongings for dolly; a necklace, a knit ting bag, bath toys, a lace-trimmed carriage pillow and cunning little bath towela bordered in pale pink and tied with pink ribbons. CUTICDM MEALS Skin Trouble On both arms from wrists to elbows Skin dry, hard and scaly. Itched and burned terribly and when scratched blood came. Could not bear to wear any sleeves, and arms were a frightful sight. Suffered mental as well as physical agony. Noticed an advertise ment for Cuticura and sent for a free sample. In about three days could see an improvement, so bought more and in three weeks was healed. From signed statement of Mrs. C, C Bandy, R. 2, Box 5, Linnton, Ore. For every purpose of the toilet Cuti cura Soap and Ointment are supreme. Stsl- Xaek riss W Kill. Address poet- 'Cs&esrs. bast. B. ItInn " Sold evsrywt Soap 2ec Ointment 25 snd 60c Talcum 2Sc oil ci cacne How this Woman Suffered and Was Relieved. Fort Fairfield, Maine." For many months I suffered from backache caused by female troubles so I was unable to do my house work. I took treatments for it but received no help whatever. Then some of my friends asked why I did not try Lydia E. Finkham's Vegetable Com pound. I did so and my backache soon disappeared and I felt like a different woman, and now have a healthy little , baby girl and do all my house work. I will always praise Lydia E. Pinkham's Vegetable Compound to women who suf fer as I did." Mrs. Altoh D. Oakxs, Fort Fairfield, Maine. The Best Remedy is wmmmmmmr i .a-i'i-'i .)' i i n mi nut- LYDIA E..P IfEGEMBIZ COMPOUND IVPIA E.P1NKHAM MEDICrrTCCOrLYNN. MAf J . 11 n mr i n . r. in ii Hi ni.imnisniin.ni in i . . i .1 na.11 I ' Kf j