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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (July 21, 1918)
) THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 21, 1918. PORTLAND BOYS PLAY IMPORTANT PART IN GREAT STRUGGLE FOR WORLD-WIDE FREEDOM William B. Patten, 21 Tears Old, Makes Nine Trips Across the Atlantic Oregon City Youth Displays Keen Eye and Saves United States Vessel From Collision All Branches Represented. , ?t r 1 h. - - I f I"' " I f ? - r I i I Si 'St $ "-- ' t r&srstujm ,. t4 f Ni : L.J " t :! J&rJjr j&jrjjftf- W. tt ten. ft N 4 f 1 WM,-.tfttM. A FORMER Jefferson Hisrh School student, Leo J. Hinkle, is now with the 157th Aero Squadron "somewhere in England." He enlisted last November. England's climate and scenery is just like that of Oregon, except that fir trees and roses are lacking:, young; Hinkle says in a recent letter to his parents, Mr. and Mrs. C. M. Hinkle, of 1006 Albina avenue. "We play baseball until eleven every night and it doesn't get dark for half an hour after that," he writes, "and it's daylight again at three. "The girls are pretty and treat the Tanks fine, but in my 10.000 miles of travel since booking: with Uncle Sam 1 haven't seen any to beat those of Portland." "William B. Patten, just 21 years old, has made nine trips across the Atlantic Ocean, and was preparing: to leave on his tenth at the time he addressed a letter to his mother, Mrs. Jasper Pat ten, of Cottage Grove, Or. Patten is a' I ureman in me unuea otates ivavy ana ; has served on the San Diego, Colorado, Albany and Hartford in his trips over seas. "Just returned from France yester day," he says. "We had a good trip. Only one vessel was sunk out of 25, and it was an English boat. We leave in three days with another boatload of Boldiers." Carl Burton Eisele. of 1026 Lincoln street, Portland, formerly of Stafford, has enlisted in the Navy as water- tender. He left for navy yards last week. the Bremerton Edwin V. Raines, of Myrtle Creek, who passed the Annapolis Naval Acad emy examination last spring at Grants Pass, is now a full-fledged midshipman in the academy. Word has been re ceived that he passed his physical ex amination successfully. Now only 20 years old, "Young: Raines graduated from the .Myrtle Creek High School in 1914, later going to San Fran cisco, where he attended the Drew Pre paratory School. His brother, George, who was in the hospital department ot the marines, died February 6 at Quan tico, Va. . Vernon E. Crane, son of Mrs. Jennie Zutger, of 515 Mill street, is in Base Hospital No. 8 of the 12th Aero Squad ron, A. E. F., according to a letter just received by his mother. Receipt of some "fine candy" and another package is chronicled in the missive. - Quick work as a lookout by O. .M. Olds, of Oregon City, now aboard the U. S. S. Cincinnati, helped to avoid a collision with another ship and earned him special mention. In a letter to his parents, Mr. and Mrs. Ed Olds, of Oak Grove, he tells of the officer's state ment commending him for the quick action. The statement follows: "O. M. Olds, seaman, at 9:31 P. M., sighted at approximately 600 yards tramp steamer with no lights showing. Had the vessel been sighted a few sec onds later a collision would have been unavoidable. Except for the attention to duty and quick report made by Sea man Olds and prompt action of the of- ficer-on-deck, there would have been a very serious disaster, possibly sinking: one or both ships." . , Frederick Hugh Clayson, former student at Jefferson High School, is with Company 104, Eighth Regiment, at Fort Crockett, Galveston, Texas. He is the son of Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Clayson, of 670 Gantenbein avenue. He writes that he would like to hear from any of his old friends here. He has been in the marines since April. Joseph A. Urquhart, now a yeoman stationed at the Mare Island naval training station, recently spent a week's furlough with his parents, Mr. and Mrs. George Urquhart, of 1075 Clin ton street. A graduate of Christian Brothers Business College, he was a clerk in the Bank of Kenton when he enlisted last December. As a member of the Multnomah Amateur Athletic Club he lias been treated splendidly by the Olympic Club of San Francisco, he reports. Harlan Stansbery, son of J. E. Stans bery, horticultural inspector, 582 East Lombard street, is in the- electrical school at Mare Island. He enlisted Feb ruary 8 in the radio branch - of the Navy. Graduating from Jefferson High School in 1917, - he attended Oregon Agricultural College for one semester. Ulysses Giesy, who has been attend ing: the Mare Island electrical school at Vallejo, Cal.. is home for a short visit with his father, A. H. Glesy, of Aurora and Portland. Young Giesy ex pects to complete his training as a wireless operator about December 1. lilBl III llffll iMiiMiiaSMB . to cause a growth of vine at . the ex pense of the seed pods. The dwarf va rieties are usually used for early peas, and these we have had for some weeks. The tall, climbing varieties are planted for late crops, as they grow up high and bear peas down their whole length, like pole beans, and so we fjet so many more peas from them. .These must be held up in some way, and brush is usually used, but chicken wire is good if you have it. I have noticed this year a foreign neighbor (who is a first-class gardener) who has planted his peas in hills around a central pole as you would pole beans, and they seem to be doing splendidly. Peas are highly perishable, quickly losing their flavor and tender ness after packing, and also if left on the vines too long. You will find some pods ready for picking a week or more ahead of others, and they must be picked and eaten or canned at once. In a small garden do not wait to pro cess a whole boiler full of cans of one kind of vegetable, but get together two or three cans each of different kinds, and take each out of the boiling water 'according to directions as to time. Parsnip and Salsify. While very different, both are fine Winter and Spring vegetables. and grow with little care after they are started. Give frequent cultivation and thin the plants to three or four Inches apart. It takes the whole season to grow the long roots, which may be left in the ground until the next Spring, as freezing does not injure them. . Peppers. Peppers need a well-tilled, rich soil. The general culture Is the same as for eggplant, and the plants need quite as much heat to produce them. Guano, hen dung or any other bird manure hoed into the surface soil when the plants are about six inches high will wonderfully increase the yield and im prove the quality o fthe fruit. They are used green at any size desired for sa lads, etc.. or allowed to ripen to a bril liant red color for use In pickles, sa lads, etc. They can be canned for "pi mentoes" or dried for Winter use in seasoning;. 1 Potatoes. The general culture of potatoes Is so well known and has been so fully de scribed that we will only mention the essentials: First, hoe well, keeping a good dust mulch, but do not hill up in this climate. Second, never irrigate (or water) fter they first come Into blos som. At this time give them a good soaking once, and loosen the top soil as soon as possible. Third, watch for potato bugs and dust with Paris green. All remedies for insects and diseases have been fully described and should be energetically applied, as this is the most valuable food crop we raise in our war gardens. Early potatoes should be ready for use now. They can be left in the ground and dug as wanted, but if dug when ripe they will keep best if covered with straw in a cool, dry, shady shed until Autumn weather sets in. Pumpkin and Sqnasb. These Dotn thrive best In a warm sandy loam, and a keg. pall or large can with holes in the bottom, sunk near each bill and filled often . with water to seep into the soil gradually, is very beneficial to the growth of the vines. When there is danger of their not maturing, the vines should be pruned as described for melons. Con fine each plant to about three runners and cut of fthe ends. The Insects and diseases are much the same as other vines which have been described. For squash bugs keep the ground free from rubbish, trap the bugs with bits of leaves and pick off old bugs. Use three-in-one mixture, etc., as described. Sum mer squash should soon be ready for eating. If you have more than you need it makes good "pumpkin" pies, and may be canned, though your Winter squash DEAR FRIENDS: Today we will finish our discussion of the best methods of culture to apply now to our war garden vegetables. Con tinuing from last week we have first: Eggplant. You should treat eg"gplants Just as you do tomatoes, except that they need greater care. It needs a rather dry soil and much heat and sunshine; per fect tillage is essential. The fruit is fit to eat as soon as it is one-third its full size and is good from then until maturity, when it loses its value aa food. A much larger crop is secured by picking the partly grown fruit, as with cucumbers. Kale and Kohl-It ji l t. Kale Is hardy and improved by frost, the tender top leaves are used for Win ter "greens." The coarser leaves are fine for chickens, cows, etc It stands in the ground all Winter, and indeed I have seen it in Oregon seven years old and in constant growth. Kohl-Rabi is somewhat like a turnip for eating. The first sowing matured some weeks ago and should all have been eaten, as they become tough and stringy as they attain their full size, but are very ten der and of delicate flavor when im mature. The culture and insect pests of both these "Cole-crops" is the same as cabbage. Lettuce does best in the cool weather of Spring and Fall. All grown now should be well irrigated and if possi ble protected from the hottest sun. It is a good crop for a partially shaded place -and should have rich soil and applications of nitrogen for leaf growth. The Cos variety is best for Bummer growth, but the Chinese cab bage described recently is Just as good and hardier. It does better if trans planted. If you can set some in an empty cold frame where you can shade it from the hottest sun, you will have the best you can raise in Summer. It has few insect enemies. Melons. The culture of melons in general, and their insect pests and diseases, are the same as cucumbers. There are only certain ki.ids of melons which will ripen here, as they need a hot climate. The nearest we can come to making that for them the better. Having them planted in light, rich soil, we must keep them well watered, well cultivated and free from Insects, as we do other vege tables, but besides this we must try to give them all the sunlight possible. Take away anything that shades them and prune some of the large leaves off the vines so that sun may shine di rectly on the ripening fruit. When all the fruit has set that you think will mature before frost, prune off all late fruit and all unnecessary branches, that the whole strength of the vines may go Into maturing the fruit formed. If the plants grow very rank, more and finer fruit will be secured by allowing the main branch to continue growing, but pinch off the end of each side branch after it has one fruit set. The quality of melons of all varieties is largely de pendent up conditions of growth and ripening. They may be hilled up to make the ground dryer an dwarmer. frequent watering of the plants with liquid manure with hasten the growth and some use a square wooden box with no bottom and a small pane of glass as a top over the young plants to con centrate the heat of the sun, so causing a quick growth and forming a pro tection from insects. Watermelons need a longer season and a warmer, better drained soil than muskmelons, so are even harder to mature, but our seedsmen tell us it can be accomplished with the right variety of seed. Be sure the soli does not bake or crust. This can only be avoided by careful surface tillage, and the cultivation of water melons must be done solely with hand the least injury to them affects both i the tops will naturally fall to the me quantity ana quality oi tne crop, i ground ana die and the roots let go Beginners often-find it difficult to tell J their hold on the soil, then the onions when a watermelon is ripe. There are three recognized methods: First, if a melon "thumps" right, that is, if it gives out a dull, flat, dead sound, it" is ripe, but if it rings hollow or musical, it is not yet ripe; second, the side that Jias laid on the ground has a yellowish cast, along with a hard, rough, warty skin in that place, and third, is the way the melon "gives" under pressure of the hand. This should never be ap plied to melons intended for (or on) the market, because it bruises them Inside. Okra er Gumbo. Okra needs a rich soil and frequent, shallow cultivation until the plants cover the ground. The young pods are the part used (when about an inch and half long). These are used mainly in soups, to which they give a pleasant flavor and a mucilaginous consistency. If' the pods are removed from the plants and none are allowed to ripen the plants will continue to produce pods until killed by frost, but the best pods are grown on young plants. The pods can be dried or canned for Winter use. Parsley. rarsiey does well here .the year around. In Winter it may have a light mulch if the weather is unusually se vere, but it does not need it ordinarily. it needs a cool, moist soil, well culti vated. The leaves are used for salads and for flavoring, as well as for gar nishmg. If the leaves become dull or brown in Summer they should all be cut off and the plant will start a new growth of leaves which will be bright er and better curled. Onions. Our early onion sets have rrown and been eaten; more can be planted in suc cession. Indeed, in this favored . cli mate, we may have green onions for our table nearly the whole year around There is a kind called Perennial true onions which come up year after year witnout tne slightest Winter protec tion. We will speak of them later as they cannot be started now, Our seed onions which are to make our large dry onions for Fall will not mature until in September. In the meantime we must keep the soil rich by adding commercial fertilizer con taining potash, about one pound to every 40 square feet; ashes are very good to use. Nitrate of soda is used early, but not later, as it retards ma turity. The onion is practically a sur face feeder, and as the seed sprouts slowly and the baby plants are deli cate and slender rooted, conditions must be absolutely right for a good growth. No other vegetable crop re quires such fine surface soil, loose and well cultivated. Hard or baked soil will surely give a poor crop. Onions should not be irrigated after June, the dust mulch must be maintained, but weed ing is most important of all weeds are death to onions. Give the onions ' the first hoeing, just skimming the ground between the rows, as soon as they can be seen In the row. Hoe again in few days, this time close up to the plants, after which weeding must be gin and be carefully and thoroughly done. The weeder should work on hi knees astride the row, stirring th earth around the plants, in order to de stroy any weeds that have just started. At this weeding, or the next, accord ing to the size of the plants, the row should be thinned, leaving from eigh to 12 plants to the foot, or plants one Inch or one and one-half inches apart. In 10 days or two weeks they will re quire another hoeing and weeding simi lar to the last, and two weeks later give them still another hoeing, and if neces sary another weeding. If the work has been thoroughly done at the proper time the crop will not require furthe should be lifted and allowed to dry off for a day or two before storing, but when you irrigate them too late, or when a heavy rain comes when they should be drying off, and they keep on growing, you must break down the topb by rolling a keg, etc., over them, so hat the tops will die and the bulbs be come dry, ready to store. Peas. Peas are easy to grow and not "very particular . as to soil, but like cool weather best. This Summer the aphides are a very serious menace to the crop. Spray thoroughly with a solution of Black Leaf 40, or any tobacco wa ter, or use any other remedies given for these pests. Many of them can be knocked off the vines and hoed under the ground. Peas should not be ma nured while growing, as that is liable grow. In general. It requires the same care you give potatoes. The vigor and fruitfulness of the plants of one sea son depend upon the spread of the leaves of the preceding season. For this reason, after the cutting season is over, the plants are encouraged to develop leaves; the smaller and weaker ones being cut off that the larger ones may grow still larger, and all seed stalks cut off carefully. It has no serious Insect enemies or diseases. 1 have not found it very palatable canned, but it can be stored so as to be freah for Winter, which we will describe later. Spinach. It Is Interesting to know that "spinach belongs to the pigweed fam ily and is a cousin to the beet. In order that the leaves be crisp and ten der quick, continuous growth is neces sary and. as it is mostly a surface feed er, the soil must be rich and well cul tivated, but it is generally easy to grow. Light applications of nitrate of soda will greatly improve the qua! lty. Use the larger plants first and let the smaller ones grow, but use the whole plant rather than pinch off the bottom leaves. You can sow more in succession and should have a large amount In the ground for use in Win ter. What you have now should be cut before more hot weather or it will be tough and stringy. Swiss Ckard. Swiss chard, also called spinach beet or sea kale beet, is another of the "pot herbs used for greens. It is a variety of beet with large thick leaves and a broad white midrib. This midrib is cut out of the leaves and cooked and served Just like asparagus, while the remainder oi ine leaves is usea xor greens, 'xney may be blanched by tying the leaves to gether while growing. It grows like beets, maturing in late June, though It will give a succession of leaves, the largest of which may be removed and eaten as wanted during the Summer, Fall and following Spring. Tomittei, I have been told that some of -the neighbors in their zeal and enthusiasm began setting out their tomatoes so early that they have at plants out four different times. They will know better next Spring. It is not yet too late to set out a few plants carefully, especially if it really should rain some time. Then will be your time to set out all plants but not in really- wet, sticky ground ever: set them- out Just before the rain, or after the ground has dried up so it is 'crumbly." In order to force an early maturity It Is adised to set the plants near together, prune the plants to a single stem and keep all side growths and superfluous growth pruned off. and train the plant to a stake set at each plant, to which it is securely tied (strips of cloth are better than string for this). Or trellis may be made by setting a stake at each plant (set four feet apart), and stringing wires or tacking on lath be tween to train them on. The first sup rort should bo 12 inches and The other 30 inches from the ground, the plants should be pruned to four stems each and tied to the trellis. However, I have had more tomatoes than I could use every year here without training them ud at all: but pruning judiciously certainly increases the size of the fruits, and lets the sunlight reach L the blossoms and fruit, causing much more fruit to ma,ture.x Do not neglect to pinch out the little sucker leaves that ctme out between each large leaf and the seem. Tomatoes may have square frame built around them, or a barrel hoop fastened up a foot or so from the ground by stakes, and the vines lifted up to lap over this. Thl prevents rot and exposes the fruit to sunlight and air so they ripen better. They should not be hilled up, and NOVEL PAJAMAS ADD BEAUTY TO MODERN AMERICAN GIRL Sleeping Garment of Silk Material, Combined With Georgette, Wins Many Admirers Among Girls of Younger Set. and pumpkin will be so convenient and mulching increases the tendency to rot. They need a warm, rich sou., but must not have too much fresh manure, as that produces rank vine growth and delays fruiting, a light application of nitrate of soda may be given them when first set out. so much better fresh that it is hardly worth while. Radlak. ' R&dish Is a hardy, quick - growing crop, which needs rich soil and plenty of moisture, and a cool" climate for its best development. One or two applica tions of nitrate of soda worked Into the soli will help their development wonderfully. Remember that radish tops make good . "greens," '.and they should be cooked with any other greens you have rather than be thrown away, as is true of all such tops of vegetables. Radishes are picked as -soon as they are large enough to furnish one or two bites, as the big radish is not nearly so good to eat as the half-grown one. Re member that "Carco," for sale at your seedsmen's, is guaranteed to prevent and kill the root maggot. Better use it as a preventive If you want fine radishes. Remember the Chinese and Japanese radishes recently fully de scribed, which you should grow for Winter use. Rhubarb. If you have just set out your rhu barb, none of the stalks should be used the first Summer, but a good growth made. None of the plants shoirld be allowed to produce seed, however. The richer the soil and the deeper it is stirred the better your rhubarb will TnmJpa. . Turnips do best in Spring and Fall, though they may be grown during Svmmcr. They should be eaten when young, before they are full grown Winter turnips are sown in August and September and can be left in the ground all Winter to use as desired, in this climate, and in colder places they can be buried in a pit or stored in a cellar, so it is waste of time to can them. For treatment of root- masrgot, see radish We have room for a few words about our most common garden fruit. I want to write you a whole letter about gar den fruit raising as soon as we get more pressing matters disposed of. Currants and Gooseberries. Manure should have been worked in to the soil early -and the soil left level never hilled up here. After the cur rants have been picked, the ground around the bushes should be again cul tivated thoroughly and then the plants allowed to become dormant and ready for Winter. Late Summer or Fall :..-.-".- , I j ' - T t " I I . v.. - I f 1 ! I i 1 ; " HI i 4 I I f I - ' - V I r If ; j r- ' t j! I ji -, ' ' 'U - I I M r - ' "v 7; s I v; ' I I -'; ' ! x - y I I IS U II ; 1 ; I - 1 4 ? ' x - - 1 I I . I :.'' - ' J ' ' I I II t i f - i i ; lift . - J 1 - 1 1 N Li i 1 r - 1 j 1 I l v .1 if. I ! i . - 'J - - - - - ' U ! i t 1 . - J a i I - --w, ? I I I ' -' s vs.-. 1 It 1 1 - -cf?f- !..' - . ft f: L,.J., ;..?. - - . . ... k-....-,,.....,.,.. i ttiunn CLOSE! your eyes and picture the same as you did 1 years ago the sleeping beauty -of i your fairy tales. Then compare her with this photograph and admit that the giri with the novel pajamas malces the pret tier of the two beauties. Of course, th pictured one Is fully awake at present, but she is ready for slumberland. The pajamas are made of pink satin combined with georgette. The Jacket is made of georgette. From Best Co.. New York. as there is danger of winter Injury to the unseasoned young shoots. Goose berries are very heavy feeders, so must have plenty of manure or fertilizer, and they are very shallow-rooted, so that deep tillage close to the plants is not only impossible but dangerous and should never be practiced after the plant has become established. Their cultivation otherwise is the same as that of currants. Loganberries, Raspberries, Etc. Nothing can take the place of good, thorough cultivation In the berry patch. Summer tillage should be shallow but frequent and continue regularly until the crop is harvested. After that it should be only often enough to main tain growth and keep the suckers and growths should always be discouraged, weeds down. As soon as the fruit is gathered, the fruiting canes of the sea son should all be cut and removed. The fruit next year will be borne on th new canes. We have not time now to speak of grapes, etc, but will later have a letter on small fruit the fall planting of new fruit and the proper winter care of th fruit we now have. Very cordially yours, TOUR GARDEN NEIGHBOR. ! 1 Leas Employment Koted. Building trades returns from 35 Canadian cities for a recent month in dicate that employment decreased mora than 42 per cent, as compared with the previous month, and over 4S per I cent, as compared with the same month in 1917. &TRI0TIC PRACTICAL !NEEDLKWOl JOZJ wXOXjLLCLO i 1 1 ? ! 1 BE; - i ' t-: r- l - - - " ' ' J " ; i - ' " i 1 . - , ; - , ' f' k. I V .1 tools, the vines are very tender and cars until ready to gather. In the Fall A Practical Strainer. There is a place in every kitchen now for the new devices which can save time and labor. Of particular value are those devices which may be made at- little cost and be cared for easily During the Summer months, when berries clamor on every bush to be picked and made into Jams and jel lies, . and while milk is plentiful and cottage cheese a favorite food, the new strainer shown in the picture should be put into use by every housewife. The strainer consists of three dis tinct parts, the muslin bag. a wooden fork, and a wooden tube. The instruc tions for the bag follow: One-half yard of coarse, open weave, unbleached muslin or one yard of good quality cheesecloth and a yard of half inch white cotton .tape. Cut the mate rial in two pieces 19 Inches Ions, by 12 Inches .wide, slanting to a point at either end. The sides and lower ends are stitched together to form the bag. The upper points are hemmed separate ly, making the mouth of the bag. The tape is sewn to the two upper points, forming a loop. The bag is then ready for use. the natural color of the fruit. The fork is simple to make. A small piece of wood with a notch In one end to hpid the tape will do. The measure ments are H by hi by 7 Inches. The tube la best made of walnut, as this does not take the stain as softer woods will do. Any carpenter, cabinet A wooden fork Is used to carry the maker, or wood turner will make this tape through the tube. The tube is and the fork cheaply. A clear diagram also of wood, as any metal -will change' of the tube is shown in the sketch.- - The fruit Is put Into the bag and the tube pressed down, after which tha bag is hung up to drain. If hune against the wall, the fork may be used, as a brace by placing the fork ends against the bag and the other end, against the wall; the bag will thea swing out far enough to avoid splash ing. This process may also be followed) with clabber xuUk. for cottage cheese.-
