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THE SUNDAY OREGONIAN, PORTLAND, JULY 21, 1918.
PORTLAND BOYS PLAY IMPORTANT PART IN
GREAT STRUGGLE FOR WORLD-WIDE FREEDOM
William B. Patten, 21 Tears Old, Makes Nine Trips Across the Atlantic Oregon City Youth Displays Keen Eye
and Saves United States Vessel From Collision All Branches Represented.
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A FORMER Jefferson Hisrh School
student, Leo J. Hinkle, is now
with the 157th Aero Squadron
"somewhere in England." He enlisted
last November.
England's climate and scenery is just
like that of Oregon, except that fir
trees and roses are lacking:, young;
Hinkle says in a recent letter to his
parents, Mr. and Mrs. C. M. Hinkle, of
1006 Albina avenue.
"We play baseball until eleven every
night and it doesn't get dark for half
an hour after that," he writes, "and it's
daylight again at three.
"The girls are pretty and treat the
Tanks fine, but in my 10.000 miles of
travel since booking: with Uncle Sam
1 haven't seen any to beat those of
Portland."
"William B. Patten, just 21 years old,
has made nine trips across the Atlantic
Ocean, and was preparing: to leave on
his tenth at the time he addressed a
letter to his mother, Mrs. Jasper Pat
ten, of Cottage Grove, Or. Patten is a'
I ureman in me unuea otates ivavy ana
; has served on the San Diego, Colorado,
Albany and Hartford in his trips over
seas. "Just returned from France yester
day," he says. "We had a good trip.
Only one vessel was sunk out of 25,
and it was an English boat. We leave
in three days with another boatload of
Boldiers."
Carl Burton Eisele. of 1026 Lincoln
street, Portland, formerly of Stafford,
has enlisted in the Navy as water-
tender. He left for
navy yards last week.
the Bremerton
Edwin V. Raines, of Myrtle Creek,
who passed the Annapolis Naval Acad
emy examination last spring at Grants
Pass, is now a full-fledged midshipman
in the academy. Word has been re
ceived that he passed his physical ex
amination successfully.
Now only 20 years old, "Young: Raines
graduated from the .Myrtle Creek High
School in 1914, later going to San Fran
cisco, where he attended the Drew Pre
paratory School. His brother, George,
who was in the hospital department ot
the marines, died February 6 at Quan
tico, Va.
. Vernon E. Crane, son of Mrs. Jennie
Zutger, of 515 Mill street, is in Base
Hospital No. 8 of the 12th Aero Squad
ron, A. E. F., according to a letter just
received by his mother. Receipt of
some "fine candy" and another package
is chronicled in the missive.
-
Quick work as a lookout by O. .M.
Olds, of Oregon City, now aboard the
U. S. S. Cincinnati, helped to avoid a
collision with another ship and earned
him special mention. In a letter to his
parents, Mr. and Mrs. Ed Olds, of Oak
Grove, he tells of the officer's state
ment commending him for the quick
action. The statement follows:
"O. M. Olds, seaman, at 9:31 P. M.,
sighted at approximately 600 yards
tramp steamer with no lights showing.
Had the vessel been sighted a few sec
onds later a collision would have been
unavoidable. Except for the attention
to duty and quick report made by Sea
man Olds and prompt action of the of-
ficer-on-deck, there would have been a
very serious disaster, possibly sinking:
one or both ships."
. ,
Frederick Hugh Clayson, former
student at Jefferson High School, is
with Company 104, Eighth Regiment, at
Fort Crockett, Galveston, Texas. He is
the son of Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Clayson,
of 670 Gantenbein avenue. He writes
that he would like to hear from any of
his old friends here. He has been in
the marines since April.
Joseph A. Urquhart, now a yeoman
stationed at the Mare Island naval
training station, recently spent a
week's furlough with his parents, Mr.
and Mrs. George Urquhart, of 1075 Clin
ton street. A graduate of Christian
Brothers Business College, he was a
clerk in the Bank of Kenton when he
enlisted last December. As a member
of the Multnomah Amateur Athletic
Club he lias been treated splendidly by
the Olympic Club of San Francisco, he
reports.
Harlan Stansbery, son of J. E. Stans
bery, horticultural inspector, 582 East
Lombard street, is in the- electrical
school at Mare Island. He enlisted Feb
ruary 8 in the radio branch - of the
Navy. Graduating from Jefferson High
School in 1917, - he attended Oregon
Agricultural College for one semester.
Ulysses Giesy, who has been attend
ing: the Mare Island electrical school
at Vallejo, Cal.. is home for a short
visit with his father, A. H. Glesy, of
Aurora and Portland. Young Giesy ex
pects to complete his training as a
wireless operator about December 1.
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to cause a growth of vine at . the ex
pense of the seed pods. The dwarf va
rieties are usually used for early peas,
and these we have had for some weeks.
The tall, climbing varieties are planted
for late crops, as they grow up high
and bear peas down their whole length,
like pole beans, and so we fjet so many
more peas from them. .These must be
held up in some way, and brush is
usually used, but chicken wire is good
if you have it. I have noticed this year
a foreign neighbor (who is a first-class
gardener) who has planted his peas in
hills around a central pole as you would
pole beans, and they seem to be doing
splendidly. Peas are highly perishable,
quickly losing their flavor and tender
ness after packing, and also if left on
the vines too long. You will find some
pods ready for picking a week or more
ahead of others, and they must be
picked and eaten or canned at once.
In a small garden do not wait to pro
cess a whole boiler full of cans of one
kind of vegetable, but get together two
or three cans each of different kinds,
and take each out of the boiling water
'according to directions as to time.
Parsnip and Salsify.
While very different, both are fine
Winter and Spring vegetables. and
grow with little care after they are
started. Give frequent cultivation and
thin the plants to three or four Inches
apart. It takes the whole season to
grow the long roots, which may be
left in the ground until the next Spring,
as freezing does not injure them. .
Peppers.
Peppers need a well-tilled, rich soil.
The general culture Is the same as for
eggplant, and the plants need quite as
much heat to produce them. Guano,
hen dung or any other bird manure
hoed into the surface soil when the
plants are about six inches high will
wonderfully increase the yield and im
prove the quality o fthe fruit. They are
used green at any size desired for sa
lads, etc.. or allowed to ripen to a bril
liant red color for use In pickles, sa
lads, etc. They can be canned for "pi
mentoes" or dried for Winter use in
seasoning;. 1
Potatoes.
The general culture of potatoes Is so
well known and has been so fully de
scribed that we will only mention the
essentials: First, hoe well, keeping a
good dust mulch, but do not hill up in
this climate. Second, never irrigate (or
water) fter they first come Into blos
som. At this time give them a good
soaking once, and loosen the top soil
as soon as possible. Third, watch for
potato bugs and dust with Paris green.
All remedies for insects and diseases
have been fully described and should be
energetically applied, as this is the
most valuable food crop we raise in our
war gardens. Early potatoes should be
ready for use now. They can be left in
the ground and dug as wanted, but if
dug when ripe they will keep best if
covered with straw in a cool, dry, shady
shed until Autumn weather sets in.
Pumpkin and Sqnasb.
These Dotn thrive best In a warm
sandy loam, and a keg. pall or large
can with holes in the bottom, sunk
near each bill and filled often . with
water to seep into the soil gradually,
is very beneficial to the growth of the
vines. When there is danger of their
not maturing, the vines should be
pruned as described for melons. Con
fine each plant to about three runners
and cut of fthe ends. The Insects and
diseases are much the same as other
vines which have been described. For
squash bugs keep the ground free from
rubbish, trap the bugs with bits of
leaves and pick off old bugs. Use three-in-one
mixture, etc., as described. Sum
mer squash should soon be ready for
eating. If you have more than you need
it makes good "pumpkin" pies, and may
be canned, though your Winter squash
DEAR FRIENDS: Today we will
finish our discussion of the best
methods of culture to apply now
to our war garden vegetables. Con
tinuing from last week we have first:
Eggplant.
You should treat eg"gplants Just as
you do tomatoes, except that they need
greater care. It needs a rather dry
soil and much heat and sunshine; per
fect tillage is essential. The fruit is
fit to eat as soon as it is one-third its
full size and is good from then until
maturity, when it loses its value aa
food. A much larger crop is secured
by picking the partly grown fruit, as
with cucumbers.
Kale and Kohl-It ji l t.
Kale Is hardy and improved by frost,
the tender top leaves are used for Win
ter "greens." The coarser leaves are
fine for chickens, cows, etc It stands
in the ground all Winter, and indeed I
have seen it in Oregon seven years old
and in constant growth. Kohl-Rabi
is somewhat like a turnip for eating.
The first sowing matured some weeks
ago and should all have been eaten, as
they become tough and stringy as they
attain their full size, but are very ten
der and of delicate flavor when im
mature. The culture and insect pests
of both these "Cole-crops" is the same
as cabbage.
Lettuce does best in the cool weather
of Spring and Fall. All grown now
should be well irrigated and if possi
ble protected from the hottest sun. It
is a good crop for a partially shaded
place -and should have rich soil and
applications of nitrogen for leaf
growth. The Cos variety is best for
Bummer growth, but the Chinese cab
bage described recently is Just as good
and hardier. It does better if trans
planted. If you can set some in an
empty cold frame where you can shade
it from the hottest sun, you will have
the best you can raise in Summer. It
has few insect enemies.
Melons.
The culture of melons in general, and
their insect pests and diseases, are the
same as cucumbers. There are only
certain ki.ids of melons which will
ripen here, as they need a hot climate.
The nearest we can come to making
that for them the better. Having them
planted in light, rich soil, we must keep
them well watered, well cultivated and
free from Insects, as we do other vege
tables, but besides this we must try
to give them all the sunlight possible.
Take away anything that shades them
and prune some of the large leaves off
the vines so that sun may shine di
rectly on the ripening fruit. When all
the fruit has set that you think will
mature before frost, prune off all late
fruit and all unnecessary branches, that
the whole strength of the vines may go
Into maturing the fruit formed. If the
plants grow very rank, more and finer
fruit will be secured by allowing the
main branch to continue growing, but
pinch off the end of each side branch
after it has one fruit set. The quality
of melons of all varieties is largely de
pendent up conditions of growth and
ripening. They may be hilled up to
make the ground dryer an dwarmer.
frequent watering of the plants with
liquid manure with hasten the growth
and some use a square wooden box with
no bottom and a small pane of glass as
a top over the young plants to con
centrate the heat of the sun, so causing
a quick growth and forming a pro
tection from insects. Watermelons
need a longer season and a warmer,
better drained soil than muskmelons, so
are even harder to mature, but our
seedsmen tell us it can be accomplished
with the right variety of seed. Be sure
the soli does not bake or crust. This
can only be avoided by careful surface
tillage, and the cultivation of water
melons must be done solely with hand
the least injury to them affects both i the tops will naturally fall to the
me quantity ana quality oi tne crop, i ground ana die and the roots let go
Beginners often-find it difficult to tell J their hold on the soil, then the onions
when a watermelon is ripe. There are
three recognized methods: First, if a
melon "thumps" right, that is, if it
gives out a dull, flat, dead sound, it" is
ripe, but if it rings hollow or musical,
it is not yet ripe; second, the side that
Jias laid on the ground has a yellowish
cast, along with a hard, rough, warty
skin in that place, and third, is the
way the melon "gives" under pressure
of the hand. This should never be ap
plied to melons intended for (or on)
the market, because it bruises them
Inside.
Okra er Gumbo.
Okra needs a rich soil and frequent,
shallow cultivation until the plants
cover the ground. The young pods are
the part used (when about an inch and
half long). These are used mainly
in soups, to which they give a pleasant
flavor and a mucilaginous consistency.
If' the pods are removed from the
plants and none are allowed to ripen
the plants will continue to produce
pods until killed by frost, but the best
pods are grown on young plants. The
pods can be dried or canned for Winter
use.
Parsley.
rarsiey does well here .the year
around. In Winter it may have a light
mulch if the weather is unusually se
vere, but it does not need it ordinarily.
it needs a cool, moist soil, well culti
vated. The leaves are used for salads
and for flavoring, as well as for gar
nishmg. If the leaves become dull or
brown in Summer they should all be cut
off and the plant will start a new
growth of leaves which will be bright
er and better curled.
Onions.
Our early onion sets have rrown and
been eaten; more can be planted in suc
cession. Indeed, in this favored . cli
mate, we may have green onions for
our table nearly the whole year around
There is a kind called Perennial true
onions which come up year after year
witnout tne slightest Winter protec
tion. We will speak of them later as
they cannot be started now,
Our seed onions which are to make
our large dry onions for Fall will not
mature until in September. In the
meantime we must keep the soil rich
by adding commercial fertilizer con
taining potash, about one pound to
every 40 square feet; ashes are very
good to use. Nitrate of soda is used
early, but not later, as it retards ma
turity. The onion is practically a sur
face feeder, and as the seed sprouts
slowly and the baby plants are deli
cate and slender rooted, conditions
must be absolutely right for a good
growth. No other vegetable crop re
quires such fine surface soil, loose and
well cultivated. Hard or baked soil will
surely give a poor crop. Onions should
not be irrigated after June, the dust
mulch must be maintained, but weed
ing is most important of all weeds are
death to onions. Give the onions ' the
first hoeing, just skimming the ground
between the rows, as soon as they can
be seen In the row. Hoe again in
few days, this time close up to the
plants, after which weeding must be
gin and be carefully and thoroughly
done. The weeder should work on hi
knees astride the row, stirring th
earth around the plants, in order to de
stroy any weeds that have just started.
At this weeding, or the next, accord
ing to the size of the plants, the row
should be thinned, leaving from eigh
to 12 plants to the foot, or plants one
Inch or one and one-half inches apart.
In 10 days or two weeks they will re
quire another hoeing and weeding simi
lar to the last, and two weeks later give
them still another hoeing, and if neces
sary another weeding. If the work has
been thoroughly done at the proper
time the crop will not require furthe
should be lifted and allowed to dry off
for a day or two before storing, but
when you irrigate them too late, or
when a heavy rain comes when they
should be drying off, and they keep on
growing, you must break down the topb
by rolling a keg, etc., over them, so
hat the tops will die and the bulbs be
come dry, ready to store.
Peas.
Peas are easy to grow and not "very
particular . as to soil, but like cool
weather best. This Summer the aphides
are a very serious menace to the crop.
Spray thoroughly with a solution of
Black Leaf 40, or any tobacco wa
ter, or use any other remedies given
for these pests. Many of them can be
knocked off the vines and hoed under
the ground. Peas should not be ma
nured while growing, as that is liable
grow. In general. It requires the same
care you give potatoes. The vigor and
fruitfulness of the plants of one sea
son depend upon the spread of the
leaves of the preceding season. For
this reason, after the cutting season
is over, the plants are encouraged to
develop leaves; the smaller and weaker
ones being cut off that the larger ones
may grow still larger, and all seed
stalks cut off carefully. It has no
serious Insect enemies or diseases. 1
have not found it very palatable canned,
but it can be stored so as to be freah
for Winter, which we will describe
later.
Spinach.
It Is Interesting to know that
"spinach belongs to the pigweed fam
ily and is a cousin to the beet. In
order that the leaves be crisp and ten
der quick, continuous growth is neces
sary and. as it is mostly a surface feed
er, the soil must be rich and well cul
tivated, but it is generally easy to
grow. Light applications of nitrate
of soda will greatly improve the qua!
lty. Use the larger plants first and
let the smaller ones grow, but use the
whole plant rather than pinch off the
bottom leaves. You can sow more in
succession and should have a large
amount In the ground for use in Win
ter. What you have now should be cut
before more hot weather or it will be
tough and stringy.
Swiss Ckard.
Swiss chard, also called spinach beet
or sea kale beet, is another of the "pot
herbs used for greens. It is a variety
of beet with large thick leaves and a
broad white midrib. This midrib is cut
out of the leaves and cooked and served
Just like asparagus, while the remainder
oi ine leaves is usea xor greens, 'xney
may be blanched by tying the leaves to
gether while growing. It grows like
beets, maturing in late June, though It
will give a succession of leaves, the
largest of which may be removed and
eaten as wanted during the Summer,
Fall and following Spring.
Tomittei,
I have been told that some of -the
neighbors in their zeal and enthusiasm
began setting out their tomatoes so
early that they have at plants out
four different times. They will know
better next Spring. It is not yet too
late to set out a few plants carefully,
especially if it really should rain some
time. Then will be your time to set
out all plants but not in really- wet,
sticky ground ever: set them- out Just
before the rain, or after the ground
has dried up so it is 'crumbly." In
order to force an early maturity It Is
adised to set the plants near together,
prune the plants to a single stem and
keep all side growths and superfluous
growth pruned off. and train the plant
to a stake set at each plant, to which
it is securely tied (strips of cloth are
better than string for this). Or
trellis may be made by setting a stake
at each plant (set four feet apart), and
stringing wires or tacking on lath be
tween to train them on. The first sup
rort should bo 12 inches and The other
30 inches from the ground, the plants
should be pruned to four stems each
and tied to the trellis. However, I
have had more tomatoes than I could
use every year here without training
them ud at all: but pruning judiciously
certainly increases the size of the
fruits, and lets the sunlight reach L the
blossoms and fruit, causing much more
fruit to ma,ture.x Do not neglect to
pinch out the little sucker leaves that
ctme out between each large leaf and
the seem. Tomatoes may have
square frame built around them, or a
barrel hoop fastened up a foot or so
from the ground by stakes, and the
vines lifted up to lap over this. Thl
prevents rot and exposes the fruit to
sunlight and air so they ripen better.
They should not be hilled up, and
NOVEL PAJAMAS ADD BEAUTY
TO MODERN AMERICAN GIRL
Sleeping Garment of Silk Material, Combined With Georgette, Wins Many
Admirers Among Girls of Younger Set.
and pumpkin will be so convenient and mulching increases the tendency to rot.
They need a warm, rich sou., but must
not have too much fresh manure, as
that produces rank vine growth and
delays fruiting, a light application of
nitrate of soda may be given them
when first set out.
so much better fresh that it is hardly
worth while.
Radlak. '
R&dish Is a hardy, quick - growing
crop, which needs rich soil and plenty
of moisture, and a cool" climate for its
best development. One or two applica
tions of nitrate of soda worked Into
the soli will help their development
wonderfully. Remember that radish
tops make good . "greens," '.and they
should be cooked with any other greens
you have rather than be thrown away,
as is true of all such tops of vegetables.
Radishes are picked as -soon as they
are large enough to furnish one or two
bites, as the big radish is not nearly so
good to eat as the half-grown one. Re
member that "Carco," for sale at your
seedsmen's, is guaranteed to prevent
and kill the root maggot. Better use
it as a preventive If you want fine
radishes. Remember the Chinese and
Japanese radishes recently fully de
scribed, which you should grow for
Winter use.
Rhubarb.
If you have just set out your rhu
barb, none of the stalks should be used
the first Summer, but a good growth
made. None of the plants shoirld be
allowed to produce seed, however. The
richer the soil and the deeper it is
stirred the better your rhubarb will
TnmJpa. .
Turnips do best in Spring and Fall,
though they may be grown during
Svmmcr. They should be eaten when
young, before they are full grown
Winter turnips are sown in August
and September and can be left in the
ground all Winter to use as desired,
in this climate, and in colder places
they can be buried in a pit or stored
in a cellar, so it is waste of time to
can them. For treatment of root-
masrgot, see radish
We have room for a few words about
our most common garden fruit. I want
to write you a whole letter about gar
den fruit raising as soon as we get
more pressing matters disposed of.
Currants and Gooseberries.
Manure should have been worked in
to the soil early -and the soil left level
never hilled up here. After the cur
rants have been picked, the ground
around the bushes should be again cul
tivated thoroughly and then the plants
allowed to become dormant and ready
for Winter. Late Summer or Fall
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CLOSE! your eyes and picture the
same as you did 1 years ago the
sleeping beauty -of i your fairy
tales. Then compare her with this
photograph and admit that the giri
with the novel pajamas malces the pret
tier of the two beauties. Of course, th
pictured one Is fully awake at present,
but she is ready for slumberland.
The pajamas are made of pink satin
combined with georgette. The Jacket
is made of georgette. From Best
Co.. New York.
as there is danger of winter Injury to
the unseasoned young shoots. Goose
berries are very heavy feeders, so must
have plenty of manure or fertilizer, and
they are very shallow-rooted, so that
deep tillage close to the plants is not
only impossible but dangerous and
should never be practiced after the
plant has become established. Their
cultivation otherwise is the same as
that of currants.
Loganberries, Raspberries, Etc.
Nothing can take the place of good,
thorough cultivation In the berry patch.
Summer tillage should be shallow but
frequent and continue regularly until
the crop is harvested. After that it
should be only often enough to main
tain growth and keep the suckers and
growths should always be discouraged, weeds down. As soon as the fruit is
gathered, the fruiting canes of the sea
son should all be cut and removed. The
fruit next year will be borne on th
new canes.
We have not time now to speak of
grapes, etc, but will later have a letter
on small fruit the fall planting of new
fruit and the proper winter care of th
fruit we now have.
Very cordially yours,
TOUR GARDEN NEIGHBOR. !
1
Leas Employment Koted.
Building trades returns from 35
Canadian cities for a recent month in
dicate that employment decreased mora
than 42 per cent, as compared with
the previous month, and over 4S per
I cent, as compared with the same month
in 1917.
&TRI0TIC PRACTICAL !NEEDLKWOl
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tools, the vines are very tender and cars until ready to gather. In the Fall
A Practical Strainer.
There is a place in every kitchen
now for the new devices which can
save time and labor. Of particular
value are those devices which may be
made at- little cost and be cared for
easily During the Summer months,
when berries clamor on every bush to
be picked and made into Jams and jel
lies, . and while milk is plentiful and
cottage cheese a favorite food, the new
strainer shown in the picture should be
put into use by every housewife.
The strainer consists of three dis
tinct parts, the muslin bag. a wooden
fork, and a wooden tube. The instruc
tions for the bag follow:
One-half yard of coarse, open weave,
unbleached muslin or one yard of good
quality cheesecloth and a yard of half
inch white cotton .tape. Cut the mate
rial in two pieces 19 Inches Ions, by
12 Inches .wide, slanting to a point at
either end. The sides and lower ends
are stitched together to form the bag.
The upper points are hemmed separate
ly, making the mouth of the bag. The
tape is sewn to the two upper points,
forming a loop. The bag is then ready
for use.
the natural color of the fruit. The
fork is simple to make. A small piece
of wood with a notch In one end to
hpid the tape will do. The measure
ments are H by hi by 7 Inches.
The tube la best made of walnut, as
this does not take the stain as softer
woods will do. Any carpenter, cabinet
A wooden fork Is used to carry the maker, or wood turner will make this
tape through the tube. The tube is and the fork cheaply. A clear diagram
also of wood, as any metal -will change' of the tube is shown in the sketch.- -
The fruit Is put Into the bag and the
tube pressed down, after which tha
bag is hung up to drain. If hune
against the wall, the fork may be used,
as a brace by placing the fork ends
against the bag and the other end,
against the wall; the bag will thea
swing out far enough to avoid splash
ing. This process may also be followed)
with clabber xuUk. for cottage cheese.-