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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (May 13, 1917)
6 TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MAY 13,- 1917. - BACCHANTE TRIMMING ON HATS, EVEN FOR DEBUTANTES, TO BE IN VOGUE THIS SUMMER Big Bunches of Rosy Cherries on Brims, Also to Be Seen, Give Coquettish Effect Black Millinery Is Chic and . Attractive Conceptions Are Coming Out for Midsummer Wear. ,M V"'"y" ' 'f Jf ''if'iwiiiw.. . & , I W I r- '?!lur"n x tlced by a comparattlvely small clasa of players, and, by reason of their very nature, do not as a rule meet with satisfactory results, my talk today bears exclusively upon business dou bles, the doubles made in the hope to secure a good over-top score. Assum ing the bid to be sound, the cases, how ever, are of such rare occurrence where a double is advisable, that it is almost easier to say when one should not dou ble than when one should. Never double, especially a small con tract, unless you are prepared to dou ble anything to which declaring side may shift. Never double the only bid which you may defeat. Tou only lay yourself llaible. especially if the contract be a comparatively low one, to a change of bid to something to which you can offer no defense, and so lose your chance of a big over-top score. Never double on trump strength alone; never on any one suit alone. Score to Be Considered. Never double when declarer's score Is such that the doubled value of the tricks, in the event he makes good, will put him game, whereas the un doubted value would not. Therefore, always know the adverse score before announcing a double. To IllusVate: Declarer at love score bids "3 clubs." If he makes good his score will be but 18. If, however, you double and he makes good his score Is twice 18, or 36, game and six points over. A game is equivalent to the value of one-half the rubber value, or 125 points. For all of this you have yourself to thank. If, on the contrary, declarer calls "3 clubs." his score being 12 or over, a double, other conditions warranting it, would be sound, as, if he makes good, he will go game in any event. Never at "no trumps" double on a long established or nearly established suit unless prepared to double any suit to which adversaries may shift. Take the following: "No trumps are de clared, and you as leader hold seven diamonds to ace, king and queen; nothing of value besides. To double would be the worst thing possible. It might easily cause a change of bid to "2 spades." "hearts" or "clubs," and you would be defenseless. At "no trumps," you stand an excellent chance of defeating the contract. In such case leave good enough alone and be satisfied. It is not essential, as many think, to hold a number of trumps in order to double. General strength as a rule is more important. Do not, however, count too confidently upon aces or well-guarded kings of long suits. They are liable to e trumped. Example of a good double: You. as dealer, bid "no trumps" on the follow lng:Hearts, K, J, 9. 8: clubs, K. Q, 5; diamonds. A. Q. 6: spades. A, K. Q. Second and third players pass, fourth bids "2 hearts." holding hearts. A. Q, 10, 7, 6, 5, 4; clubs. A, 6; diamonds. K. 10, 4; spades, J. You bid "2 no trumps," and adversary goes to "3 spades." Now, unless game i3 of greater importance than penalties, is your chance to dou ble. You are in the right position to do so, as you are at declarer's left. Your .hand is such that you may dou ble if a change of bid be made. Your book is four tricks, and while, judg ing from your holding, it Is likely de clarer is unusually long in trumps and so correspondingly short in one or more' side suits, you can practically count more than the needed number of tricks to defeat in your own hand. This subject will be continued in the next issue. Hot Muffins Demand Too Much Butter. Omliuio of llutter From Dinner Table "Very Ensllxn." and la Be ing I'ractlced In America. EVEN demure little debutantes are wearing the festive grape in Bacchante semblance on their heads this season, and many of the large hats are fairly loaded with the fruit of the vine. This drooping-brim leghorn Is made to droop even further by an extension brim of lace straw. Around the high crown is drawn a lolded band of white grosgrain ribbon and against this are massed clusters of light and dark green grapes, with Just a few in ripe purple tone. Some white and pale pink posies are scattered among the grapes. Black millinery is decidedly chic just now, and many very stunning black hats are coming out for midsummer wear. One of the smartest is this model from a Fifth-avenue shop, its exclusiveness demonstrated not only in the dashing yet conservative style, but also In the careful sewing throughout with silk thread. Cheap hats are sewed with cheap threads and soon prove it after exposure to dust. Silk sewing In a hat Is quite as essential as silk sew ing in the seams of a tailored suit. The The Chantilly brim of this hat gives airiness and the shape is very grace ful. Black grosgrain ribbon is pleated and stitched to thes traw crown and delicate sprays of goura give a feathery outline at the top. It seems this hat brim did not droop i weighted down with a big bunch of rosy cherries, and the effect Is surely delightful on a sufficiently pretty wearer. The hat Itself is made of a new machine embroidery in applique effect on coarse net and the net is laid over orchld-mauve silk. The under brim facing, the pleated velvet around the crown and the velvet streamers that start from the bunch of cherries enough for coquetry's sake, so it was are all in the cherry shade. WfflMllMmill .Hill illllffltWft i A DOUBLE at auction means that the doubling player thinks the declarer will be unable to keep his contract and that he will receive doubled value for penalties. A re double means that, despite the warn ing, the declaring side expects to make good and so receive re-doubled values. But one double and one re-double are allowed. A double Is always over the adversary's declaration; never over the partner's. So a re-double is al ways over the adversary's double, never over the partner's. If the side doubling defeats the con tract, they score the doubled value, 100 instead of 50 for each trick by which declarer fails. If they defeat at a re double, they score the re-doubled value, or 200. for each trick by which the declarer fails. The adversaries' score, as is known, is always above the line. ' If at a double declarer makes good. he scores the doubled value of each trick below the line, and, above the line. Irrespective of any honor score to which he may be entitled. 50 for making good and 50 for each trick he may take over and above the number named. If he makes good at a re double he scores below the line the re doubled value of each trick taken, and, above the line, irrespective of the honor score. 100 for making good and 100 for each trick taken in excess of the num ber named. Example: Declarer bids "3 hearts"; adversary to left doubles. Declarer just makes good. Below the line he scores the doubled value of each heart trick. 16 instead of 8, in all 48; above the line, in addition to any honor score to which he may be en titled, 50 for making good. Had he taken tricks in excess of the number bid. say. 5 odds, below the line he would score the doubled value of each heart trick, or five times 16, 80, above the line, 50 for making good and 50 for each of the two additional tricks. In all 150. Should he just make good at a re doubled "3 heart bid," below the line he would score the redoubled value of each heart trick, or three times 32, 96; above the line, in addition to his honor score. 100 for making good at a re double. Should he take. say. two tricks additional at a "3 heart bid," five in all, below the line he would score the re-doubled value of each heart trick, or five times 32, 160; above the line, 100 for making good and 100 for each of the two additional tricks, in all- 300. As can be seen, a double and more especially a re-double are extremely hazardous undertakings (liable to re sult in a heavy score to the opposing side) and should not be attempted un less one is thoroughly familiar with the principles governing them and Is prac tically sure the venture will be suc cessful. "While there is nothing so ef fective as a double or a re-double that is successful, on the other hand there is nothing so hazardous as a double or re-double that goes wrong. An un doubted authority on the game says he would rather lose three chances on possible doubles that might win than make one poor double and lose it. The player contemplating a double should estimate the number of tricks necessary to be taken to defeat the con tract. His book represents always the difference between ..the number of tricks the declarer contracts to take and 13, the entire number of tricks. That is, if "4 spades" are declared, the adversaries" book is three tricks, the difference between the number declarer contracts to take, in all all 10 tricks, and 13. In addition to his book the doubling side must take at least one other trick in order to defeat the con tract: in the case just given, at least four tricks. When player is practically assured from his own holding of the tricks needed to defeat, the double, other things being favorable. Is usu ally sound. Otherwise not. As a player should be guided as to how high he may bid by counting his losing tricks, a player in doubling should count his winning .tricks and be guided accordingly. If this method were universally adopted there would be in finitely fewer doubles that go wrong. Some players double, as they say, "on principle." whenever the "bid reaches a high fiure. This is ridicu lous and paramount to saying that no high bid is ever successful. Double the bid when your hand admits of the double, but not otherwise, no matter how high the bid. Position Is Feature. The position the player occupies with regard to the declarer has much to do in determining whether or not a dou ble should be ventured. One is in the best position to double when he sits to the left of the declarer, as he thus plays after rather than before the iBtrons adversary. " When h.e . sita to the right of the declarer the case Is reversed and he plays before rather than after the strong adversary. The declarer, in other words, has the ad vantage of position. In such case ex ceptional strength is needed to pull off a successful double. Doubles are divided into two classes. business doubles and informatory dou bles. As informatory doubles are prac- mHKSE days, when butter has soared X to auch distressing prices, the fru gal housewife is "nipping in" wherever she can on its use. Print butter is reallv such a luxury now that there is no stigma of penuriousness attached to any housekeeper who doles it out in small Quantities to family and serv ants, or who purchases a cheaper qual ity for the kitchen use. To outter costs a little less than print butter and in many a household the long-dlscara ed butter paddles have been brought out aeain and butter balls once more adorn the breakfast and luncheon table. In some households butter Is not served at all at dinner. This is "very English," bo the custom has sanction of the elite. Butter is seldom served at English dinner tables, the requisite amount of fat being supposed to oe lur nished in trravies and sauces. Delicious as muffins, hot biscuit. waffles and pancakes undoubtedly are, they must be , abandoned for a time while the price of butter and eggs soars if one wishes to economize. A pound of butter costs as much as a pound of high-grade chocolate bonbons and the latter would be treated with some con slderatlon. One can do with a deal less butter on hot toast or on toasted muf fins is salt be sprinkled on with the light spreading of butter before serv ing. It is often the salty taste a out ter-lover craves. The people who love butter and eat of It ravenously usually eat far more than is good for their complexions or their figures. Most of us are deciding off and on that we will positively go without butter for awhile and lose some weight. This is the time of times to do It and once the craving for butter has been conquered and one has learned to do with a very little, it 'Is easy to keep up the good habit. MISTRESS MARY BOOKRACK FOR GUESTROOM IS UNIQUE AFFAIR Morning Glories, Grass Path, Trellis and Vine-Covered Gate Are Prettily Tinted in Natural Effect Conception Is Pleasing. Xl- LITTLE DAUGHTER OF CAPTURED SKIPPER WINS HEARTS OF SUBMARINE RAIDERS Crew of Diver Presents Gifts to Child of Captain Isaak Jacobson When She Is Transferred Stage Beauty to Arrange Revue for Theater Roof Garden. r- SS. . ,Brn . - -Jzzzz. . F : 1 III 4 ' I - ' : . .'A 5 -x. :y -"Timm v?. 0 I I '. ; - 1 f . 1 x ;y A Vf v-'i-vv.v - J r i - F xV hi ' 4 Yy - 'A'- hi ;x'ti:7 L.V: if i 'w- V v r : ' v I ; x. ' ,J 1 x-m v v; s I i- " :- , -kaia . .. f ' - yy?s. s. s . - - xWx Vjj is a s x - , - - j II 1 x IV I a $ x- - v; - x I V" v- -y I x jt I 4 J. . l v v.H-ii U "s x is if "S, . x..x $11 X f" X" frmr x . r. -1 . PRINCESS CATHERINE RAPZI WILL, now Mrs. Eugen Kolb, who was taken to Ellis Island for de tention, has been released. She denied that she was the Princess Radziwill arrested In South Africa or that she was a German. Her husband, who was formerly of Munich, she says, is now a naturalized Scandinavian. ... Mrs. S. Stanwood Menken Is a well- known society woman of New York much Interested in the League for Woman's Service. She was Gretchen von Biesen, daughter of a well-known New York lawyer. Her husband lawyer who has had an active part in public affairs. The Council of National Defense has Just appointed a committee of well- known women to superintend the war service activities of women. It is called the Committee of Women's Defense Work and Dr. Anna H. Shaw has been made the chairman. Dr. Shaw Is well known as an active advocate of suffrage. m m m The little daughter of Captain Isaak Jacobsen, a Norwegian skipper, was on board his bark, the Thor II. when it was sunk by a German submarine. The skipper, his wife and daughter were compelled to board the U-boat, and re main upon it for eight days. The captain's little daughter soon captured the hearts of all on board from the commander down the line, and enjoyed the freedom of the ship. When she and her parents were transferred to another vessel, an armful of suvenlrs contriD uted by the crew was presented to her. So far as is known, this Is the first girl to live on board a submarine while it was on a war cruise. Justine Johnstone, who is reckoned the most beautiful woman on the Am erican stage, has walked out of the cast of "Oh Boy," where she had two lines to speak, and says a three-year con tract is nothing to talk of in war time. Miss Johnstone used to be the central figure of the Ziegfeld Fellies. One eve ning she had a little disagreement with the stage manager and walked out. Recently Miss Johnstone organized "Justine Johnstone's Little Club" which Is the chief rendezvous of the dancing crowd of the theatricl district. Now she is going to add to this a revue which she will stage on the roof of the Korty-fourth-street Theater. Sash for Summer Frocks Has 1 Triangular Drapery. Snn and llaln T'mbrrllaa. for All Their Practicability, Are Attrac tively Made. GARDEN BOOK. RACK FOR GUESTROOM. M" ISTRESS MARY, quite contrary, . petticoat all of wood are they; her how does your garden grow? bonny complexion, too! Very promisingly, if one Judges Ana morning-glories, grass path. by the thrifty morning-glories climb ing over trellis and gate and the posies that border the grassy patch along which Mistress Mary advances. Her powdered coiffure and puffy panniers, her!flowiD sleeve ruXXlea and. quilted J trellis, gate and Mistress Mary herself are prettily tinted In natural effect. A guestroom bookrack this, so charm ing that it almost seems a pity to cover up the grass path and keep Mistress Mary from reaching the vine-covered gate by filling the racfc wlta . raading matter. A PRETTY sash to wear with Sum mer frocks is in two parts, the crushed girdle around the waistline and a long triangular-shaped sashend that falls in a cascade drapery to the skirt hem. The triangular end is faced with contrasting color and is weighted at the end with a tassel or crochet ball so that the cascade drapery keeps its place and does not fly about. One of these sashes in pale blue satin meteor is lined with pink satin: another sash of black charmeuse is lined with white. Sun and rain umbrellas are truly practical affairs: but for all their prac ticality, they are attractive, too. This Is because the" lean more toward the parasol Idea than the umbrella Idea as the old-time sun-umbrella never did. In shape and appearance they are par asols; in sturdiness of material they are rainproof umbrellas. They come in plain colored silk and in Roman stripe effects, and have handles In various shapes and colors with a cord loop for easy carrying. Semi-made sport skirts are a boon to women who love smartly-tailored clothes yet must economize in tailored smartness. ' One buys such a skirt all ready to wear except for the altering of a hem and the stitching of one seam. Belt, pockets and other details of fin ish are perfection, and in half an hour the skirt may be adjusted to the figure, the open seam sewed up and the hem stitched. It is important to match the silk used in making such a skirt for badly matched stitching would quite spoil the smart effect. One takes it for granted that the skirt, as pur chased, has been sewed throughout with silk. Only a woman indifferent about wear, worth and distinction of a garment will buy one, nowadays, sewed with a cheap substitute for silk thread. Rush Rugs Substitute for Costly Coverings. Orientals Put In Stormice for Sum mer to Preserve Delicate Color- IT is always a good plan to take up the Oriental rugs in Summertime. If the house is closed for a period, one feels safer to have the costly rugs se cure In cold storage where thieves can not break through and steal. And the strong sunlight of Summer will not do handsome rugs any good, particularly if the colors are dainty rather than deep. There are many attractive rugs especially designed for Summer rooms and these cost so little, really, that one will hardly feel the expense of making the house cool and attractive for the heated term. Rush rugs are smartest Just now. for they are new and "different." They come in plain, neutral shades with bor ders in color, and are oval in shape, ranging In size from little mats to big ovals for porch or living-room. Grass rugs are liked for porches, hallways and bungalow living-rooms, but these rugs are not pleasant to walk upon in bare feet and should not be placed In bedrooms, for the Summer, bedroom the rag rug is Ideal provided It is large enough to keep its place on the floor and not rumple up underfoot. Nothing is more annoying than a rag rug which slips about and humps it self into wrinkles. A six-by-ntne-foot size costs only about 4 and will keep itself flat on the floor. Two of these rugs will suf ficiently cover almost any Summer bed room if the floor is hardwood or even stained wood. Braided rag rugs have a quaint charm all their own when used in rooms having fine old pieces of fur niture. Braided rag rugs are - very cheap when one supplies the rags. Keep all the old stockings, silk or cotton. cut them Into strips and give them to the rug-maker. Nothing could be bet ter for braided rugs. Buy or Make a Home. Frnm the Los Anceles Times. Every married man Hhould own his own home. Did anybody ever know of a robin hatching and raising her young in another robin s nest, or a fox sleep ing in the hole in the earth of another fox? Better own a cottage than hire a palace. Lazarus sleeps sounder in the hut he owns than does Dives in the palace he rents. The man who owns his home can say: "These roses distill their perfume for me; the white blos soms of these lilies are mine; the jes samine that climbs about this porch is mine. I can stand in my garden and say: 'From the internal fires beneath me to the radiant stars above me, earth and air are mine." " The home of our childhood once abandoned is forever lost. It may have been a hut standing on the ugltest patch of ground the earth affords, yet so wrapt round the heart is it, so charged with youthful imagery in every stick and stone of it, that the gilded castle, built in after life, with all the rare and costly furnishings that art and ingenuity can afford, is but an empty barn beside it. Buy a home, declare on it as a home stead, and no storms of fortune can ever take it away from you. You can say: "Hence far from me, ye senseless Joys That fade before ye reach the heart The crowded dome's distracted noUe, Where all is purap and useless art! Give me my home to quiet dear. Where hours untold and peaceful move; So fate ordain I sometimes there May voices hear of those I love. Skirt and Gaiters in One. Erte. who was the designer for Taul Poiret. has invented a skirt and high gaiters cut In one piece. The manufac turers are trying to introduce this model. Poiret himself could not have designed a more original sensation. The idea was suggested to Erte by the strong return of the mannish costumes of 1830. which the staging of Langdon Mitchell's new play. "Major Pendennis." with John Drew in the title role, has brought so brilliantly before New York audiences. These have been copied for women, with a narrow skirt substituted for the trousers which spread over the Instep and have a strap underneath. It may be that this new skirt by Erte will be adopted by the smart set for riding. It Is not at all probable that it will be adopted for walking., but it is highly suggestive of a strong, new in fluence that is at work in fashions. Women have not advanced far enough to wear the peg-top trousers of 1830, but the Insistence upon the skirt that is slightly full from waist to knees and tight from there to ankles surely found Its source in the men's fashions of the early 19th century. "What Is Genius? Genius is a handsome name frequent ly., given. U hard-working - men after they have finished American M c;irine. a tough job. The z GIRLS! MAKE A BEAUTY LOTION WITH LEMONS z t t f v Z f , xVO x5 4. 1 V;' z z ' z i i t "I -x t r At the cost of a small jar of ordinary cold cream one can prepare a full quar ter pint of the most wonderful lemon skin softener and complexion beautifier by squeezing the juice of two fresh lemons into a bottle containing three ounces of orchard white. Care should be taken to strain the juice through a. fine cloth so no lemon pulp gets In. then this lotion will keep fresh for months. Every woman knows that lemon Juice Is used to bleach and re move such blemishes as sallowness, freckles and tan, and is the ideal skin softener, smoothener and beautifier. Just try it! Get three, ounces of orchard white at any pharmacy and two lemons from the grocer and make up a quarter pint of this sweetly frag rant lemon lotion and massage it daily into the face. neck, arms and hands. It naturally should help to soften, fresh en, bleach and bring out the roses and beauty of any skin. It In wonderful to smoothen rough, red hands. Adv. FRECKLES Now la the Time to i.rt Rid of Those I'sty Spot. There's no longer the slightest need of feeling ashamed of your freckles, as the prescription othine double strength Is guaranteed to remove these homely spots. Simply get an ounce of othlno dou ble strength from any druggist ami apply a little of it night and mornirir and you should soon see that even the worst freckles have begun to disap pear, while the lighter ones have van ished entirely. It Is seldom that mora than an ounce is needed to completely clear the skin and gain a beautiful clear complexion. Be sure to ask for the double strength othine, as this is sold under guarantee of money back if it . falls, to remove freckles. Adv.
