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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 20, 1915)
9 loaf or In gem pan. as' preferred. The bread should be moist and tender, and may be eaten freely, and It will usually have a good effect if used every day for weeks. To keep the breasts from becoming sore they should be washed with warm water and good castile soap every night and after each nursing: For a few weeks before the baby is born the nipples should be washed in this way every night and. covered with vaseline. ALL NEW STYLE TOUCHES EVIDENT IN FROCK OF BLUE AND WHITE LINEN Box-Pleating Is Set on Crosswise Skirt-Yoke and Coat Bodice Has Low Corded Armholes Sash Ribbon in Front in Impressive Bow Is One Conceit of .Tear Play Costume Preferred for Little Girl. EARLY.DAY CUSTOMS OF WEST ARB RECALLED BY MRS. NINA LAROWE Panorama Described as Predecessor of Moving Picture Travel Not Particularly Comfortable, but Ship and Stage Used Without Murmur and Considered Quite Luxurious. Making; of Mayonnaise Not Difficult Now. Three-Minute Mixture Savea Tedious Drop-by-Drop Process as Under Other Ways , of Preparing- Dresa- ' inae. THE SUNDAY OREGONIATT, PORTLAND, JUNE 20. 1915. Ye cA-?Z Ancf ST ESSENTIALLY of the present sea son, is the frock of blue and white linen because all the new-style touches are evident. The crosswise skirt-yoke on which is set a box pleating, the coat bodice with "its low, corded armhole. the neck-frill and smart tie fastened by buckle all of these are unmistakable features of 1915. The cool blue and white-striped linen is smartened by a sash of deep blue velvet ribbon. Necktie and short rib bon straps on the cuff 3 match this blue of the sash. The guimpe with its tucked and frilled front suggests a waistcoat under the coat bodice. But toned boots and white stockings add to the correct style of the costume. A conceit of this year is the sash rib bon tied into an Impressive bow at the front, the back of the frock having quite a straight line from neck to knee. This sash of wide, pale pink taffeta ribbon is tied at the normal waistline between gathered skirt and bodice of a little batiste and Val frock. The bodice has quaint, old-fashioned lines, fitting rather closely to the shoulder and arm. The little maid wears a huge halrbow of ribbon to match her sash, and pale pink silk stockings and smart boots of patent leather with buttoned tops of white kid. Though many mothers keep girls of E and over in rompers, these habili ments are really intended only for chubby youngsters Just out of the creeping age. In better taste and far more attractive is the play costume on the little girl of 6 years. Most Eng lish children are dressed in this sen sible way of a morning. Pleated skirt and bloomers beneath CARE OF BABY IN SUMMER IS IMPORTANT MATTER Breast Milk Must Not Be Denied Youngsters, at Least During First Few Months of Life, Is Advice. A MOTHER may shield her baby from suffering and illness in many ways. Her wise and loving care is never so invaluable as in the first year of the baby's life. In this coun try thousands of babies under 1 year of age die during the Summer because mothers who love them do not know how to take care of them. No other one thing a mother can do for her baby means more to him than to feed him at her own breast. Babies who are fed entirely at the breast usually do not have diarrhea, unless overfed, but bottle-fed babies are very likely to have this trouble, even if their milk is carefully prepared. This is true at all seasons of the year, but it is especially important in Summer when the heat and flies make bottle feeding so dangerous. The mother knows that if she gives her baby the breast she is giving him: 1 Pure milk never sour. 2 Fresh milk, made and used as needed. 3 Milk of the same temperature throughout the feeding. i And, most important, -milk made especially for and especially adapted to the needs of the baby. If she feeds him from a bottle she is not sure' of any of these things, for in. no way can cow's milk be made as good as breast milk. A mother can usually nurse her baby if she has been properly cared for before the baby's birth and at the time of birth, and no mother who wants to give her baby a good start will consent to deprive him of breast milk, at least during the first few months of life. After the mother's milk comes, usually on the third day, the baby may be nursed every three hours at 6 and it A. M., at 12 noon and 3, and 9 P. M. with one feeding during the night. On the four-hour plan " the nursing will come at 6 and 10 A. M. - A - v. -s. - . . V y 7J-92ye y are-of sturdy chambray and the middy blouse with its trimming of dark blue at collar and wrist is both comfontable"1 and neat. A red chevron is embroi dered on the left sleeve of this middy, and over the sailor tie swings a cord lanyard. Tan buttoned boots and white cotton stockings complete the costume for a good time out of doors. and 2, 6 and 10 P. M. In the intervals she should give him a little water which has first been boiled and cooled. 'When the baby is 4 months old he should no longer be nursed at night. and at 6 months the mother should begin to lengthen the time between feedings a quarter of an hour each week until the length of time between nursings is four hours.' If the milk is plentiful the breasts should be nursed alternately, but it may be necessary to give both breasts at one feeding in order to satisfy the baby. The baby requires -no other food, save breast milk and drinking water, until he is ( or 9 months old. In some cases the mother may not have enough breast milk to satisfy the baby. It is then necessary to give one or more bottle feedings a day in addi tion. The nursing mother snould have plenty of simple, nutritious food. She should eat what she likes, provided her food causes her no indigestion, for if the mother is well the baby will usually be well. But if the mother has head aches or gas. on the stomach or bowels, or has a coated tongue, she is not properly digesting her food, and she should try to find out what is causing the trouble. Fat, greasy and fried foods, such as doughnuts, pancakes, baked beans, pies, heavy puddings and dumplings and insufficiently-cooked cereals are among the foods that may cause indigestion. Fresh, well-cooked vegetables, good soups, bread and butter, milk, eggs, meat, fish, poultry and fruits should form the principal part of the diet of the nursing mother. All good food is milk-making food. It Is better to do without tea or coffee, unless the moth er has always . been accustomed to them. If so, she should cut down the amount to one cup of each during a day. Cocoa may be used in moderate quantities, but milk, both sweet and buttermilk, and plenty of cold, pure water are the best drinks for the nursing mothej. The nursing mother should have plenty of sleep at night, and should learn to relax and rest' whenever the baby nurses. As far as possible she should be relieved of the heaviest part of the household work, because if she is tired and worn the baby will not thrive as he should. The nursing mother should have a full movement of the bowels every day, but should not use medicine to induce an action unless absolutely necessary. Ripe, raw fruits, stewed rhubarb and prunes and well-cooked oatmeal and other cereals are laxative. Graham and bran breads are most useful in constipation. Bran bread Is made as follows: 1 cup of cooking molasses. 1 teaspoonful of soda. 1 small teaspoonful of salt, 1 pint of sour milk or buttermilk, 1 quart of bran, 1 pint of flour. . Stir well and bake for- one hour In a moderate oven. It may be baked as a SPORT WARDROBE FAR FROM INEXPENSIVE ONE . Raiment Delightfully Informal, but Must Be up to Last Moment in Snap pi nesa of Style and Well Tailored. Blllgl gll gillSi eil51U5lliglli5l5lll5Hi5IUSmsllISI!i pi!iei)linli!SiHl!fll!lllIUSIIIIHlflilfIllllt el(lIIII!il!iIHIflSI!elHHSIIIltililiIlfI!iSI! Sit 11 1 Il 1 111 ElH.IHIMlllll.lir' nIIiSIHiil?lll EIHIHSIIIIUll ' bmsihsiiisii' ' ltJMllll. 1!1II!I1! Si! Miiiininr ' ElllSiHSIHSIlV ' EIiilliii a l!5!ili-Iiillllli ieiieiiiiniHii lllIU;i!illl-IUIN sill hi in I11Y HSlHSUlSlHSIIISIIiSIHSfc. ?IUlll?!Iil5!Iti; F!?iuiuiiisf ?IilIitItllllIU? !llllHIIilU5!lllr ifiiiiiitiitiir !lli!lliJliltl ?IllIUIISIUt ' iUl!iIH? 1111 IHlH l1llii? HI5UIUI1I Illtiil!ll' gm-iti in-ill? fcSill ill III 111 1 1 I v y, riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiir i y ( ' THE SPORT HAT. LET not the woman who is plan ning a simple ' Summer wardrobe be misled by the casual statement of a friend: "Oh. you'll need nothing but sport clothes at Sport raiment is delightfully inform al and suggestively inexpensive 'in im agination; but no Summer wardrobe costs more than the wardrobe of smart sport -clothes. Such garb may not be built at home. It must be well tail ored and up to the last moment in snappiness of style, else it looks pain fully dowdy. Sport clothes do cost money; no getting around that! The constant laundering . of crisp white THE making of mayonnaise ' dress ing was formerly regarded as a troublesome affair. Exceptional, cooks or housewives, it is true, would assert that it was no trouble, once the knack was acquired; but as a rule it was not a popular dressing with busy cooks. The reason was not far to seek. In the first place, tradition held that if mayonnaise dressing curdled it must be thrown out and a new mixture started; and, as it often curdles, this was not a chert ul prospect to face when time was short. In the second place, tradition asserted that good mayonnaise could be made only by adding the oil drop by drop a lengthy and troublesome process. Tradition in both Instances was wrong. If the mayonnaise curdles, an egg yolk should be broken into a clean bowl and beaten thoroughly and the curdled mixture added to this drop. In this way the mayonnaise will be re covered. The three-minute mixture that saves the tedious drop-by-drop process is made as follows: Measure out the salt and mustard into a bowl and add a whole egg, both yolk and white. Beat this mixture thoroughly and then add one-third of a cup of oil, all at once. Beat this until it begins to thicken, then add another third of a cup of oil. . This makes a fairly thin mayonnaise. If a thicker one is desired more oil must be added, making a cup of oil in all; beat until very stiff, then set the bowl on ice until the dressing is wanted. Mayonnaise made by this process Is less likely to curdle than that made in the old way, and the mixture is quite as good. A bowl or Jar of mayonnaise will keep for some time if put in the re frigerator, and It is very useful to have on hand. It is "well to remember, too, that a mayonnaise can be trans formed Into a tartare sauce by the ad dition of chopped gherkins and capers. Therefore it is economy in time so to plan your menus that a fish dish served with a tartare sauce is followed the next day by a salad requiring a mayon naise dressing, or vice versa. Carlotte Rasse and How to Make It. Two tablespoonfuls of gelatin soaked in a little cold milk two hours, two coffee cups of rich cream, one cup of milk. Whip the cream stiff In a large bowl or dish; set on ice.. Boll the milk and pour gradually over the geta tin . until dissolved, then strain; when nearly cold add the whipped cream a spoonful at a time. Sweeten with powdered sugar, flavor with vanila. Line a dish with lady fingers or sponge cake, pour In cream and set in cool place to harden. Organized Mothers Active. Twelve thousand mothers form the California Congress of Mothers. Alabama mothers met in annual con vention recently. Middletown. Del., has a new Mothers' Circle formed by Mrs. George Marshall, state president. - Worcester (Mass.) 27 home and school associations are asking that the Mayor grant a special appropriation of 2000 to open the scnoois ior civic purposes. St. Paul (Minn.) mothers are co operating with the Citizens' Free Em ployment Bureau by providing suitable clothinsr for worthy. poor scnooi chil dren, and thus easing the burden of unemployment. Distinguished service. - . Kansas City Star. If the Kaiser cannot think of anyone else to decorate, let him hang an iron 1 cross on Q. Bernard Shaw. B SI 1 115111 IilIifli!l!i.S JJllMIHIIia . UHlllIUliiij :x ' 'ft .,: AM ' sIW ,i.Hl 1111113 illll!!lIf !)!ltili3 i 11 J!I I slilllll!l3 t ?iH!!ifH!J SlHlHll!lil3 11 Ii!l!Ii!I :)!Iltl!fllll!13 .741211 III!J SIS 1 X 'II!I!!M T 'Ii!fii3 i? - 1 ist 1 linens and piques costs money, too. On the other hand, no girl looks so well in Summer as the girl in correct sport toggery and such raiment is worn mommy, noon and night at the ex elusive colonies where cottage and club life prevails. One sport hat is of white corduro. trimmed with white grosgrain ribbon made into a flat cockade. Such a hat may accompany a tennis or boating dress of white duck, on most informal lines; or a tailored white linen suit worn with white gloves, white but toned boots and white, parasol. The lines of the hat are smart and correct and its style is unassailable. llAs W-AO ' - 41 SI I - I JJ s L "J BY MRS. NINA CHURCHMAN LAROWE. FIFTH ARTICLE. WE HAD the panorama which was evidently the forerunner of. the moving picture. The painted canvas used to unroll and pass over the stage while a man pointed with a long wand and explained meanwhile. Econ omy prompted the selection of the ap plicants and they were usually "mur derers of the king's English" and ig norant of history. The explainer learned his description by rote. Some times the canvas traveled too fast or he was too slow of utterance and while describilng Paris perhaps would find himself with Dublin or some other city in front of him. Consequently, he would become confused and woula have, to stop short and plunge into the descrip tion of the.city which encroached on the time of the one he had been de scribing. They used to tell a tale of a Biblical panorama wnere ine inter preter in the scene of Daniel in tne lions' den used to say: "You will distinguish Daniel from the lions by the green cotton umbrella which he carries under iiis arm." Well, anyhow, we children thought the pic tures grand and were entirely satisfied. We had high-post bedsteads with a canopy and curtains to shut out the air. Now we go to the other extreme and have sleeping porches that we may take in all the pure air possible. If children or grown people were at all delicate they were warned against the night air. No windows were allowed to admit it and sometimes rooms were heated all night. The high bedsteads had a miniature ladder of three steps to enable one to get into them. The mattresses were supported by lacings of rope, which were drawn through holes in the woodwork of the bed stead, and every now and then had to be tightened up to prevent sagging. Afterwards wooden slats took the place of ropes. The bedsteads were very high to admit beneath the trundle bed. low and on wheels. The bedsteads had a curtain or val ance all around. The trundle bed was pushed under by day and drawn out by night. In it small children slept under the watchful eye of mothers. Theater Plan Reversed. In the theater what we now call the orchestra was the pit where only men and boys sat. The choice seats were in the first balcony or family circle. Sometimes ladies sat in the circle around the orchestra chairs which is now termed the parquet circle. A cur ious custom of the time was the throw ing of money to stage favorites. At the end of the act would come a tremend ous hand-clapping, up would go the curtains and then from all parts of the house would come a shower of sil ver, quarters, half dollars and dollars which would keep the favorite picking up coin for many minutes. This cus tom - obtained for some years until money was more scarce. Ladies' shoes had no heels, were made of cloth and were laced on the sides.. They were made in drab, black, blue, green and other colors. The ridiculously high heels of today are an injury to the foot and induce a very un graceful walk and carriage. Ttfe heel less ones, however, made a flat-foot appearance. The transition of a girl from short skirts to long dresses though ardently wished for, was a somewhat painful and embarrassing change. Women's dresses trailed on the ground or floor at all times and when a girl put on a long dress she was an object of uni versal comment. "I suppose you think yourself a young lady now," sneered the envious and still unpromoted ones of her own age. If she went on the street or to a party, to church or most anywhere the older ones had their fun at her ex pense and not until her friends had all become used to the situation could her equanimity be restored, her trial be over, and her young ladyhood an as sured fact. . My first long dress "was worn to church, and afterwards to Sunday school. My self-consciousness and em barrassment were so uppermost as to make me a miserable creature indeed. Finally we sold the old home in Ne vada City and disposed of things in San Francisco. I went the rounds of my pets, watering each and every head with my tears. I had a parrot, a great talker, and a cat which was her firm and staunch friend. They ate together, the parrot perched on the back of a wooden chair and the cat on fit? . ...V'. fZXtZ'-:??' 'M: Ss-. c?cj z&c? ySjr's-y? J,V7?si f Hs-An the seat. The parrot would come down and get a morsel and then go up and eat it and turning its head on one side watch the cat catch the stray crumbs. Harmony flourished between them ever. My father loved animals and between us the house was pretty well filled. Mother would occasionally rebel and clear out the livestock. Stage Ride Hard One. We had to go to Sacramento by stage, which was a long ride. We started on a cold, dreary Autumn morning. (Stages and steamers and cars have a disagreeable habit of starting and making arrivals before daylight). The roads in this case were always very muddy and the horses would frequently mire and then all the men passengers were ordered out to help. The ladies were privileged and sat up in as much state as pos sible whenever the jerks and bumps allowed them to preserve their dignity of poise. It had been the custom to go through all the way by stage to Sacramento but a small piece of the proposed railroad had been finished from Folsom to Sacramento River, so we changed from stage and took the cars. Grown people, before coming to California, had known something of railroads, but I had never been on one. Well, here was a new experience to me, steam cars and trestles, high and long, to go over. My! My! in my innermost heart I was full of fear and grasped the arms of the seat in terror as do people the dental chair when a rebellious tooth has to come out We tired travelers from Nevada and all the upper California country wel comed with delight the change from the stage to the deck of the fine steamboats then on the river. We came on board soiled, travel stained, appar ent' tramps (remember we traveled all night on stages), procured a stateroom and emerged ladies and gentlemen in appearance. The only way to go East was to take steamer from San Francisco. Travelers were still coming across the plains but you may be sure they did not go back that way. There were some faint whispers of building a railroad clear across the continent but people laughed and shook their heads at such visionary men as proposed so wild a scheme. We went to the best hotel, the American Exchange, that and the Ori ental were the hotels par excellence. The day of the Rues First, the Grand Second ,and the Palace had not arrived and previous to that was the old Rasette House which was five stories (wonderful height then) and was con sidered dangerous on account of earthquakes. It was built of brick and the others of frame. This hotel stood remote, was in the midst of a large sand lot, which is now in the business heart of the city. Changes Are Marvelous. Oh the wonderful changes in San Francisco! When we lived there we were located on Minna street in a sub urb called Happy Valley. There was another suburb called Pleasant Valley which was separated from us by sand hills. We used to climb to the top and look on the rival valley. These two little valleys were where the United States mint now stands on Fifth street nor far from Market. The houses on the residence streets then were brought around the Horn, that is the frames made ready to set up as soon as they arrived. I suppose that was done on account of the scarcity of sawmills and cut timber. When we arrived in San. Francisco from Nevada City, father not being with us, a, friend of his took charge of us and was to advise us in all things. Being an over-cautious man he Informed us immediately that we must not go down to Panama by steamer because the fever, which all Californlans dreaded and tales of which were much exaggerated, was rampant. He also said there was a feud existing between the English line steamers and ours, that they would not wait for us. that we might be on the Isthmus weeks. Mother hesi tated and rebelled, but finally deferred to his supposed superior Judgment He was in error as to the danger of staying in Panama any length of time, which, was proven. on our return from South America afterwards. We then stayed there three weeks, enjoyed it much and had no fever at all. So our advisory board, the friend, decreed that we must go on a sailing vessel. A very fine clipper ship was selected and j-' a . . Vi. VS: -fli-nitf,;rii"imiinfiii,a"iclK' sZs-. Cojy. passage secured. Tr.e sailing ships did not care much for passengers, but could be induced to take a few. They did not welcome women passengers, be cause in many cases captains were not permitted to have their wives aboard, consequently it did not seem quite the thing to take other women. It would take 60 days to make the trip from San Francisco to Callao, the port of Lima, in Peru (we could not then find a ship going direct to Valparaiso), and from there we could go down on the coast steamer from Callao to Valparaiso. Mother hesitated, was reluctant. Those 60 days way out on the Pacific appalled her, although she had been on the ocean before. Not so myself. I was young and exuberant and any proposition to go anywhere was rose colored to me. If not the steamer, why, sails by all means. Every steam er or. ship on which I have been has seemed to me to be a star of some kind, shooting and rising. I do not know what ships have in common with stars. They say: "Hitch your wagon to a star." Possibly we are advised to hitch the ship to a star also. Ship VaicariN Mysteries. One day our small procession of three, mother, general adviser and my self, left the hotel and made for the ship Shooting Star. The skipper's name was Captain. Drinkwater, curious name for the master of a ship. Being land lubbers ourselves (at least mother and myself, general adviser made some pre-, tensions to sea lore), we did not under stand the vagaries of No. 1 clipper ships. They clo not always hug the wharf, but prefer to be out in the stream. Another peculiarity is they never seem to know when they are go ing, but you are given a date and are expected ,to go aboard and stay there until she elects to shove out. We found, we had to go out to her in a small boat The bay was pretty rough and we were somewhat afraid and timidly stepped, in. When we got to the ship we were mere mites beside a great hulk that seemed to me miles high. She was in ballast, had not yet her cargo - and. seemingly had not decided whether to have one or not. She stood so high her ladder was ' clear out of water. Mother said, "Heavens! How are we to get aboard?" Block and tackle with a chair at the end was the answer. Mother shut her eyes tight and sailed way up into space rnd finally went over the ship s side. When my turn came I also went up and over. When we were aboard we found we had an ele gant sea home. The cabin was all dark mahogany and mirrors. We had tine staterooms and everything seemed, to promise great comfort and happi (Concluded on Pare 11.) TODAY'S BEAUTY SUGGESTIONS Face powder simply covers up an unattractive complexion and leaves no lasting benefits. Those who have tried a simple spurmax face lotion find it much better, as it removes skin dis colorations, such as freckles and tan, and makes the skin smooth, white and velvety. This lotion is made by dis solving four ounces of spurmax In one half pint hot water," then adding two teaspoonfuls glycerin. This complexion beautifier does not rub off or show like powder and gives a more refined ap pearance. It removes both shininess and sallowness, rapidly giving the skin a permanent, healthy, youthful appear ance. An especially fine shampoo for this weather can be had at U-ifllng expense by dissolving a teaspoonful of can throx in a cup of hot water. Pour slowly on scalp and massage briskly. This creates a soothing, cooling lather that dissolves and removes all dan druff, excess oil and dirt Rinsing leaves the scalp spotlessly clean, soft and pliant, while the hair take on a glossy richness of natural color, also u. fluffiness which makes it seem very much heavier than it is. After a can throx shampoo arranging the hair is a pleasure. Adv.