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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (June 13, 1915)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, POHTIiAKD, JTJXE 13, 1915. mauve or yellow. And it will be made BATHING SUIT DESIGNED TO PROTECT THROAT AND UPPER ARM FROM BURN Model Admirable in Black Satin or Dark Mohair Startling Colors Combined in Tommy Atkins" Beach Garb. New Method for Keeping Hair Dry Better Than Using Knotted Handkerchief Over Rubber Cap. with an empire bodice and a voluminous skirt trimmed with pleated ruches or flounces of lace. To be sure, there will be flowers tucked here and there WOMEN ACTIVE IN PEACE AND WAR WORLDWIDE FIGURES IN DAYS' NEWS "Princess" Auersperg Now Mrs. Murphy Queen of Greece, German Emperor's Sister, Active in Keeping Coun try From Entering Fray Dowager Queen of Italy Active in Red Cross Work. among its silken folds. Then she will have a more elaborate evening gown of chiffon, tulle or lace over a foundation of silk. Touches of silver or gold embroidery will orna ment the bodice and skirt, and the sleeves will'be mere wisps of tulle, or there will be no sleeves at all; simply strands of pearls or a band of narrow ribbon velvet over the shoulders. This also will be garlanded with flowers, but they will be the exquisite little French posies in all the colors of the opal. Summer Girl Is Determined to Have Fur Collar. Jilt of White Fu to Snuggle Into In Attractive Feature of Charming Porch Wrap. 8 - 1 I ; jar I- i-J . V .! fi. i . '? L'- -' "-V ' - : ' 1 " S 7-r7r-S-V Ssswjaf Sr fart if "Jr-s y SCtzaf Coa; THE woman who dreads sunburn will apreciate this bathing- suit which protects the throat an4 the upper arm. In either black satin or dark mohair this model would be ad mirable. The skirt is a two-gore, slifrhtly circular shape and the bodice is made distinctly military by stitched straps of the material and large, fancy buttons of colored enamel. The cap and parasol, both of pussy willow taffeta, are 01 wnne ana green, 10 repeat the color note of the buttons. N Startling: in its color but charming withal is this bathing suit called the "Tommy Atkins." made of black pussy willow taffeta with a bright red bodice and peplum of red pussy willow and lines of small brass ball buttons on the skirt. The gay little red coat is sep arate from the black dress, which has the short sleeve most comfortable for swimming, and the coat may be re moved for the dip and donned again while its possessor strolls on the sand. Over a rubber diving cap is drawn the close silk cap of black pussy willow silk with red pleated frill and smart tailored bow at back. A marked improvement on the old style kerchief tied over a rubber swim ming cap is the modern bathing head gear, though the cap and kerchief com bination undoubtedly keep the hair dry to better satisfaction. One may have a tricorne, or a military cap of rubber. H-ere is a modish bathing cap of helio trope rubber with a frill -edged with dark blue. The bow, also of rubber, matches the heliotrope cap and the jauntily slanted quill is blue in tone. Jiuch a cap may be donned over the tight and practical swimming cip if desired. LATE BATHING SUITS RANGE FROM SIMPLE MODEL TO JERSEY COSTUME Chemise Tunic OverFull Bloomers One of Most Comfortable Types Caps More Becoming and Sashes and Veils Are Attractive Features Military Suits Are Among Innovations Parasol Smart Adjunct. THE signs of the times are no more strikingly evident than in modern bathing wear. Five Summers ago a. woman appearing on a public beach attired in one of this season's bright colored, abbreviated bathing suits, would have been hooted from the sands, if not forcibly assisted by a minion of the law. But times change and stan dards of propriety change with them, and now woman may wear almost any thing in the way of a bathing costume so long aa she makes careful selection of the beach where its sensation is to be made. There are beaches and beaches, it should be remembered, and not all of them will Countenance the "latest cry" in swimming togs. On some beaches wmie D&inios suils are unuer lijo uau, others draw the line at skirtless cos tumes. At .certain Summer resorts, a sensational. over - trimmed bathing dress, .even though entirely modest in itself, probably would excite disap proval. Perhaps the most comfortable type of bathing suit, if one excepts the silk jersey costum.e upon which scarcely anything could be an Improvement as far as freedom In the water is con cerned, is the chemise tunic over full bloomers. Tunica Vary In Design. Dozens of these straight, shapeless tunics are to be seen on every bathing beach; sometimes the tunic is drawn in by a loosely knotted sash, but more often it falls ungirt from the shoulders. Sometimes it comes quite to the knee, over the edge of the bloomers beneath, but often it is several inches shorter. The chemise tunic is attractive only when made of rich material, and is usually of bathing satin, a substantial black satin treated in some special way, so that sun and salt water do not make it rusty in color. The bloomers match the chemise, the sash is usually of bright-colored silk or of rubber. In deed rubber sashes are quite the thing for bathing suits this year and they are most attractive in bright yet soft colors and with a wide girdle portion and two pointed ends held under a ro sette. Silk sashes are gay when of plaid or checkerlboard pussy willow taffeta. Twelve inches wide is the bathing sash, and at least two yards long. It ia passed around the figure somewhat be low the normal waistline and knotted 0- ; .vv . at one side of the front. If -the figure is inclined to be heavy, the sash is made double length and is wound twice or even three times around "before being knotted, to give a trim effect. Much Study Given Caps, . Bathing caps grow more and more becoming, for much study is being given to the fashioning of these caps. Sometimes "the cap is entirely of col ored rubber and sometimes satin, or striped silk is combined with rubber. Not all these bewitching headdresses keep the hair dry, as most women And, but it is usually the maid, who prefers to jump up and down in the wavelets and bask on the sunny sands who sport3 an expensive and becoming cap; the real swimmer scorns such frivolity. She does her hair close to her head, putting it well up to the crown, draws over it a rubber diving cap and binds around the edge of the cap a strip of kid cut from an old long-wristed glove. Thus and thus only can the hair be kept absolutely dry, even under water. If desired a becoming cap may be donned over this utilitarian head cov ering. . v N The rubber garters, shirred and trimmed with gay rosettes, are quite a fad and it is not at all against the canons of propriety for a lady to shoV her garters, with her bathing suit. When cap, sash and garters are in the same shade and the rubber colors are soft and attractive, a pretty effect is obtained. Veil Worn on Bench. Veils are so intensely fashionable this year that they have crept even to the bathing beach, though of course my lady contends that heV veil keeps freckles from alighting on her nose. The veil is not worn into the water, naturally, but is thrown over the bath ing cap or hat on the sand, providing a sheer but efficacious film between the complexion and the glare of sky and sea. The large, square mantilla veils are used for this purpose, for they can be folded up and tucked into a silk reticule while the bather is in the water and then tossed over the head without necesssity of tying while the sane bath is enjoyed. Usually the shade of the veil is dark, as best protec tion against the sun. Brown is the best color to select, though dark blue and dark green mantilla veils with woven borders and. dainty, mesh ar fa i:' v5 Mm vored with bathing dreeses of the same colors. ' Of course there are .military bath ing suits, that was quite to be ex pected. They are of silk, with pipings and facings' in contrasting shades, buckled belts and a plenty of small, glittering buttons usually the eagle buttons which are such a fad now. A military bathing dress of gray pussy willow taffeta is faced and strapped with white on the natty lit tle jacket bodice and is matched by a military cap of gray silk with a white rubber cockade. When all is said and done the best bathing suit of all is the rather simple model of perfect cut and of dark satin or mohair, black satin or navy blue mo hair preferably, with no striking or extreme features. The smartness of such a suit lies in its perfection of line and the woman of fastidious taste in dress has her bathing suit fitted with exquisite precision, even though its lines suggest looseness and a natural rather than corseted figure. The bodice should have plenty of fullness in pleats or gathers across the front, with a straight, trim back. The belt should be loose and low placed and the skirt should fall just over the bend of the knee, fitting flatly and smoothly over the hips. A smart adjunct of the up-to-date bathing costume is the parasol and one has' become quite accustomed now to the rather incongruous spectacle of woman attired in skirts to the knee and equipped with parasol, reticule and shade hat trimmed with quill or cockade. The girl who is an enthusiastic swim mer is also enthusiastic about silk jer sey bathing suits, for there is nothing more comfortable in the water. These suits are rather high priced, but they come in charming styles, daintily col ored, with pipings' of white. MODERN BRIDE IS PROUD MISS There Is Certain to Be at Least One Dance FVock in Trousseau. The modern bride is very proud -of her dance frock, for she does not intend to forget the "new steps," even if her time is engrossed by the cares of a home. . She is sure to have one of Gros de Xiondres in a pale tint of -blue, pink. THE Summer girl seems determined to wear fur, in spite of raillery and sarcasm of those who deem white fox altogether unsuitable for July and Aug ust; but If a wrap is necessary at all on a cool Summer-night there seems to be no good reason why & bit of white fox fur on its collar should not be gratefully comfortable to snuggle into. At any rate there is much de mand for the charming porch wraps of charmeuse and faille in soft even ing colors and collared with fur. A model of hyacinth blue faille classique and snowy fox collar is particularly alluring and some of the black falllle classique wrape lined with white pussy wlllo wtaffeta and collared with white fox are undeniably stunning. V Admirable tailleurs for the races are of white khaki-kool In semi-sport style. A flare skirt buttonsstraight down the front with flat pearl buttons and a Norfolk coat falling well over the hips is trimmed with patch pockets and cuffs with these big pearl buttons, which also fasten the single-breasted front. A low belt and mannish notched collar and lapel, with button hole for nosegay, complete the good looking suit, which will be accompanied correctly by white gloves, white buck skin buttoned boots and jl small tai lored hat draped with a mantilla veil of white silk mesh. Shadow-proof petticoats of fine white percale, trimmed with two flounces of scalloped batiste embroidery, cost from $1.50 to i 2 and should, form part of the wardrobe of every woman this Sum mer. These petticoats are indispensa ble with the sort, of sheer frock that "shows through," both for the sake of modesty and good taste; and the dainty flounces at the foot make the petticoat sufficiently graceful and fluffy to har monize with thin dresses. Natural silk stockings are liked with black pumps and slippers when a gown in cream and black tones is worn. With white pumps or buttoned boots of course the pure white silk stockings are demanded. Care Necessary When You Put Garments Away. Good Moth-Proof Bags May Be Made From Newspapers Articles Most Be Clean Before Storing Them. WHEN cleaning closets, and pack ing clothes away in moth-proof bags, should the tough paper be found to be torn, do not discard the bag, but mend the Irole with a strip of passepar tout, which will close it perfectly. Fine moth-proof bags Jor smaller articles may be made by opening news papers out the full width, and then, after adjusting the stitch to a coarse stitch, sewing around the bag with the sewing machine, taking care to fold in a piece of 'material in the seam for a loop to hang the bag up with. The articles may be pinned in place to one side of the bag, and the fourth side stitched in the same way. This bag defies moths and silver fish, as the odor of the ink is distasteful to the pests, and keeps the contents free from dust. . Should a rug be found to be faded or worn to the warp, the design may be brightened by applying a strong solu tion of dye to the fabric, applying the liquid as hot as possible, care being taken to choose a color which is that of the prevailing tone in the rug. A stout whiskbroom is excellent for the purpose of applying the stain, or a scrubbing brush may be used, provided rubber gloves are worn to protect the hands. Excellent pads for under stair carpet may be made by using pieces of corru gated paper, such as many boxes are made of, as the material is not only light and durable, but exceedingly resilient, If articles must be packed away In trunks or boxes, brush them thoroughly with a mixture made of equal parts of gasoline and turpentine. which effectually destroys any eggs of moths, and prevents the clothing being at tacked. When putting away heavy Winter gloves, lay pieces of salts of ammonia in the container, as this prevents the formation of mildew on the leather, to which it is liable in the hot days' of Summer. Silk Case for Bathing Suit Is Convenient Affair. Drew, Stockings and Slippers May De Carried Easily In Rubber. Lined Receptacle. QUITE an extensive kit of accoutre ments must be provided if one in tends to make a modish appearance on the bathing beach. In addition to the dainty silk bathing costume, there must be rubber bathing corset, silk stock ings, satin bathing shoes, kept over wooden srtetchera when not in use to prevent shrinking and shapelessness; elaborate cap, silk reticule containing handkerchief, vanity outfit, and so on, and last, but not least, a beach parasol to match the rest of the costume. . There are special suitcases or dress ing cases, lined with colored rubber, in which all the paraphernalia may be carried to the bathhouse; and in addi tion to the bathing wearables a dainty woman likes to carry also her sjecial monogrammed bath towels, flesh brush for a rubdown after the bath, jars of cold cream and talcum, brush, comb and other toilet requisites. v So it will be seen that a modern swim is quite a different affair from the ancient idea of "hanging one's clothes on a hickory limb." For the girl who can dispense with most of the luxuries of a home toilet in the interest of saving v time and trouble, a silk bathing case will be sufficient for bathing dress, stockings and slippers. This case is of black satin, lined with blue rubber, and the strap handle may be slipped over the arm for easy carrying. Old Waists Made Xew. Instead of throwing away your old shirtwaists that have become frayed at the cuffs, and the necks of which are worn out, try cutting off the sleeves to elbow or three-quarter length and turning into the neck a bit. Then stitch on a linen collar and cuff set. preferably a rather deep ;col lar if the waist is well worn, and'you have a. 'brand new waist," ' I ,grg I : : r 1 ' lip lp f j II . iV:l If -----s -IU J 1 Iri i I i ttk M JW v- M Italy, is taking a lively interest in Red W j, S J ' J Cross work. The ex-Queen is one of f$ a ' i the most popular members of the royal I -StZL. " ' II family. She lives for a great part of I T6 " 1 the year at Stresa, where she has a in v vrr-iv II NEW TORK, June 12. The -Princess" Auersperg, long known as "the pickle Princess," has mar ried. John J. Murphy, son of ex-Sena tor Murphy, of New York. She was Florence Hazard, daughter of a well known maker of pickles, when she -met Auersperg, who belonged to a noble Austrian family. He never used a title. She called herself the-Prlncess Auers perg and took great joy in her title. Recently the husband returned to Austria and he is said to be at the front. She obtained a divorce from him and now ahe has found another husband with a name less distin guished. Archduchess Zita is wife of the heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary and has two children. She was Zita of Parma when she married Karl Franz Josef, who became the heir to the throne when Franz Ferdinand was murdered. Queen Sophia of Greece is a siater of the Emperor of Germany and that relationship is complicating the po sition of Greece in the European mix up. The Greek Cabinet resigned be cause they wanted to enter the war on the side of the allies. The reason that if Greece is not in the war she will fare badfy in the division of terri tory when it is over; and Premier Venizelos was anxious to "get on the band wagon." Queen Sophia, however, has enough influence with her husband to keep him from going against Ger many. Queen Sophia was born in 1870. One of the cases where the support of a whole family has fallen upon a woman because the war has taken the men is that of Miss Allison MacBain, a Scotch girl from Montreal, Que., who has made her debut in "Nobody Home" at New York. Miss MacBain's two brothers went with the Canadian con tingent to England, and there being nobody else at home to support her Invalid father-she decided to come -to the metropolis and show the city folk what a Scotch girl can do in the line of dancing. . Marsberita, the) Dowager Queen of By playing a brilliant and fast game. Miss Lillian B. Hyde, the fair driver of the South Shore Field Club, outgen eraled and defeated Mrs. Josephine E. Precaution Against Summer Tan Is Advised. Cold Cream and Talcum Powder Will Protect Face and Complexion While Surf llathluK. IT is much better to give careful thought to sunburn before it is ac quired than after sun, wind and sea have gotten in their deadly Work on the complexion; for whereas 50 cents worth of cold cream and talcum pow der will safeguard the skin and pre vent the ugly swelling and blistering incident to bad sunburn, days of pain and real injury to the appearance may result from neglect of this care. Tan is rather a' delightful thing out in the open and in company with the cool white linen of sport atttire; but tan with a filmy evening gown or a formal afternoon toilette is another thing entirely and by midsummer the woman who adores lavender and whose skin burns easily will look a fright in her most cherished gowns. And the complexion exposed recklessly to the weather all Summer will never again get back its delicate milk and roses tint, for sunburn inevitably toughens and coarsens the skin and cosmetics must take the place of a natural rose flush before long. So the wise maid anticipates sunburn nd prepares to combat it at the season's beginning. Before going out on the blazirfg beach in one's bathing costume the face, neck and arms should be anointed with cold cream, applied liberally and well rubbed into the pores. After dab bing over the creamed surface with a soft towel or a bit of absorbent cotton, sprinkle with pure talcum to "take off the shine" and finally rub down with a piece of chamois skin. Thus armored, the skin will resist the onslaughts of sea, sun and wind, for cuticle protected with cold cream and covered with tal cum does not burn easily. If many hours are enjoyed on the sand it will be well to retire to the bathhouse dur ing the period and repeat the cold cream and talcum treatment. If the complexion is naturaly fair and delicate, a veil should always be worn in the sunlight, particularly if a brisk breeze and glare from the water accompany strong sunshine. Brown veils are the best preventives of sun burn, but a white veil, draped over a wide-brimmed hat. will be excellent protection. The big, square veils called mantilla veils or the new sanpan veils with a. hole run with elastic so that the veil niay. be easily adjusted over the Davis, of the Piping Rock Club, by 4 up and 3 to play in the final round of the Women's Metropolitan Golf Associ ation championship tournament at the Sleepy Hollow Country Club, N. Y., re cently. This makes the fourth time in six years that Miss Hyde has won the title, her first victory being scored in 1910. At that time the Long Is land girl was comparatively unknown to competitive golf. hat are smart and graceful with Sum mer costumes, as well as a protection to the complexion. Home Economics. Home economics is a great science. A number of sciences are embraced in home economics. No one can be too well trained to be a good home-maker. Everything is required of the house hold manager nowadays. Food, shelter and clothing are the chief line of household economy. The practical, intellectual, moral and spiritual are all part of home-making. There must be a pleasant, healthful house, well cared for in every detail daily. Suitable clothing must be provided and cared for constantly, after being purchased economically. The feeding, clothing and training of children must be attended to each, day and every wrong tendency, physi cal, moral, mental and spiritual, noted and corrected. The moral atmosphere of the home is a big part of the work of the house hold manager, who must uphold high ideals of home life, and at the same time maintain her own efficiency in every line of advance. In mi3. the last year for which the of ficial record is in. more than 1000 changes in name were allowed and decreed by the Probate Judges of Massachusetts. RECKLE-FACE San and Wind Bring Out Vgly Spot. How to Remove Easily. Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-face, to try a remedy for freckles with the guarantee of a reliable dealer that it will not cost you a penny unless it re moves the freckles; while if it does give you a clear complexion the ex pense is trifling. Simply get an ounce of othine dou ble strength from any druggist and a few applications should show you how easy it is to rid yourself of the homely freckles and get a beautiful complex ion. Rarely is more than one ounce needed for the worst case. Be sure to ask the druggist for the double strength othine, as this is the prescription sold under guarantee of money back if it fails to remove freck les. Adv.
