The Sunday Oregonian., March 21, 1915, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 67

TIIE SUNDAY OKEGOXIATf, PORTLAND, MARCH 21, 1915,
NEW CHECKED TRAVELING SUIT HAS
SNAP PLEASING TO YOUNGER WOMEN
Skirt Is Cut in Gores and Is Short Enough to Reveal Cloth-Topped Buttoned
Ostrich Cockade Satisfies Seashore Demands One White
WHILE conservatively simple and
In good taste this checked wor
sted suit for street and travel
ing wear has a snappy sportiness and
dash that should please the younger
'woman. The skirt is cut in gores and
Is short enough to reveal the cloth
topped buttoned boot and the belted
coat with Its pleated lower part is sug
gestive of a trim sport coat in Norfolk
style. White broadcloth faces the col
lar, and this white facing is attached
with snap-fasteners so that it may be
removed for freshening when neces
Bary. The blue straw sailor is trim
med effectively with wings.
Ostrich fancies for the new Spring
SHORT SKIRTS AND PRETTY
DEFY SPRING BREEZES
Small Hats and Floating Veils Accompany Dressy Easter Tailorings White
Smartly Made Up New Evening Gowns Seem to Float on Air,
NEW YORK, March 20. (Special.)
If there Is anywhere one may go
to observe all the fashions there
are in shortest possible time, that place
is Atlantic City over the Easter week
end. Here are worn morning costumes
of immaculate freshness and a delicious
sportiness;-afternoon costumes formal
and elaborate; restaurant costumes,
dinner costumes, dance costumes and
above all and .beyond all and per
meating all correct and stunning
tailored costumes. For at Atlantic City
in April the tailored costume is at its
best and bonniest. The weather is
exactly risht for it, and if breezes are
& bit chill for comfort, furs may be
donned with perfect propriety.
Al sorts of tailored costumes parade
up and down the boardwalk natty
sport costumes with belted coats and
skirts showing side pockets and buttons
down the front; spotless white tailleurs.
fresh as the new season itself, and
handsome suits showing the very new
est Paris-endorsed ideas in line and
material. Checked suits with plain
colored silk, braiding and metal but
tons have special favor. All ready for
Atlarrtic City Is a new pepper and
salt checked surah of heavy yet soft
weave. The skirt is circular, gathered
at the waist slightly, and cut into points
at the foot or rather at the ankle, for
all tailored skirts now show the
buttoned walking boot at least as far
up as the ankle. The pointed edge of
the skirt is defined br two Vandyke
bands of black velvet ribbon, and the
edge of the short-waisted coat is
finished in the same way. This Jaunty
coat has a sloping belt of white broad
cloth embroidered with black and white
silk, and the coat collar is faced with
white broadcloth also.
A Flounced Coat Strikes a New Xote.
Embodying the new idea of fabric
combinations In tailored wear is a
pretty tallleur destined for Atlantic
City at Eastertime. This suit is of fawn
colored mohair ana worsted mixture, a
vary lustrtous weave much fancied
l) Paris for between-season tailored
costumes. With the fawn colored wool
and mohair fabric is combined satin
striped pussy willow, taffeta In fawn.
hats are small and compact and do not
materially heighten the lines which,
this year, are low. The youthful roll
brim sailor pictured here is of black
straw with a crown of pussy , willow
silk and an under brim facing of the
same silk, edged with white silk cord
ing. Two flat ostrich cocadies are join
ed between cabuchons of white and
black metaL Like all of the smart
Spring hats, this one sets very low
over the forehead, shading the eyes.
It may be accompanied, with more
plum and cream shadings. The skirt is
of the silk and over it is a flare tunic
slashed away at the sides and then but
toned together or rather snap-fastened
together under large fancy buttons of
tortoiseshell. The coar proper, of
fawn wool and mohair mixture reaches
only as low as the armpits; beneath
is a circular, pleated peplum of the
striped silk which is cut in points at
the lower edge. This flare peplum is
lined with plum colored pussy willow
silk and inside the high, glaring coat
collar is a facing of cream goldenrod
satin. This suit will be accompanied
by a small hat of plum colored milan
having a flat crown of cream satin, and
by patent leather pumps and stockings
of natural colored silk.
Gray Buttoned Boots of Frenck Kid.
Footwear grows daintier, and a good
place to show it will be the breezy
boardwalk at Atlantic City on Easter
day. Just in time for the Easter week,
end appear some specially captivating
boots of imported French kidskin in
the daintiest shade of pearl gray and
with French heels and of course but
toned tops, for the buttoned boot has
deservedly the high indorsement of
fashion with costumes of formal char
acter. . The tops of these pearl gray
boots are of twilled cloth matching
the pearl gray shade of the kidskin toe
and heeL The buttons are gray also,
but the sole and inner curve of the
heel are black in smart contrast to the
delicate gray tone of the boot. These
boots come also in champagne colored
kidskin, which is the softest kind of
leather for dainty bootwear.
The Easter week-end usually includes
a large dance on the Saturday night,
and for this a most elaborate evening
gown must be provided, if one is to be
part of the gay scene and not merely i
an inconspicuous background. All the,
new dance frocks are extremely airy
in effect. They seem to float about!
the figure almost without substance
and this effect is particularly beauti
ful in black or In white tulle. A little
dance frock which a debutante of the
Winter will wear at one of the big
Atlantic City hotels at Eastertime has
a skirt made of ten huge kerchiefs of
white tulle - unhemmed. at ' the edges.
Boot New fcoll Brim Sailor With
- Wool Costume.
dressy costume, by a bordered mantil
la veil.
The boardwalks at the seashores dur
ing the Easter week-end are a-blossom
with fresh, dainty white costumes of
serge, cheviot and worsted and mohair
mixture the material Paris especially
favors for deml-saison tailleurs. This
white tailored frock of gabardine is
particularly graceful with its full,
pleated skirt and braidings of white
soutache. The pendulum pockets fall
ing from the top of the girdle are a
notable feature. The surplice bodice
opens over a chemisette of white In
destructible voile.
BOOTS
AT BEACHES
Mohair and Worsted Mixture Are
So Dainty Are They.
and each kerchief caugnt to the belt
by one corner. This means that the
ten kerchiefs are attached to the belt
less than three inches apart, the oppo
site points almost touching the foot of
the satin skirt beneath, while the ker
CARD ROOM SMOKING
SET IS HANDY AFFAIR
ST - - jw ' I
..-....... tr-'.. - -
. " ASH TRAYS ENOUGH TO "GO AROUND.'
t.... ....... ...........4
COMPACT and convenient is this
smoker's set, which has also pro
vision for an evening of cards.
The pack of cards is tucked away in a
compartment tinder the smoker's outfit,
which includes four removable ash
trays that fit exactly into the segments
of the circle outlining the shape of the
outfit. In the center of the circle Is
set a covered holder for cigars and
chiefs themselves float like overlap
ping flower petals of impalpable stuff
as their wearer moves in the dance.
The bodice of this remarkable frock is
close-fitting, of irridescent beads in a
closely embroidered pattern on net.
Long points of this beaded bodice fall
over the airy tulle skirt, at front and
back and are weighted with bead tas
sels. An appropriate dinner gown lor At
lantic City wear is of black chantilly
flounced with picot-edged black net,
the full skirt being dropped over white
goldenrod satin. The bodice is of
chantilly and net, is a gauzy, draped
effect, with long sleeves of net. Bodice
and skirt are joined by an extremely
wide sash of black velvet and under
the chantilly and net bodice is a cnein-ise-shaped
underbodice of white cnif
fon, picot-edged around decoletage and
armholes. For a young woman is a
dance frock in the Louis Philippe style
with a flowered pompadour drapery of
pussy willow taffeta lifted above a
lace flounced petticoat. Festoons and
bowknots of pale blue satin cording
harmonize daintily with the white and
pale pink tones of the frock.
Wraps for ArtelDinner Wear.
finrsreous silk wraps appear at Atlan
tic City after the dinner hour when the
diners stroll on hotel verandas or ven
ture on the boardwalk, en route for
anmn evening entertainment. The new
wraps. are of faille classique or heavy
silk serge for tne most pari, wim in
tricate draoeries that are marvelously
graceful and because of the richness
of the silken fabrics notably distin
guished. Sometimes faille classique is
combined with moire, as in a wrap .with
scarf drapery drawn across the back to
the waistline and falling over the
shoulders to below the hips in front.
This wrap is of taupe colored faille
classique bordered at the foot with a
deep band of taupe moire which makes
the skirt portion stand out well; and
the broad scarf drapery is aiso Dor-
riered more narrowly with the moire.
White goldenrod satin lines mis wrap,
which closes at the front wijn a single
snan-fastener, one front overlapping
Ho nttiAr at tne waistline. Anumer
hpautiful wrap for Atlantic City is of
magenta faille classique draped in toga
style. The lining 01 primrose saum
harmonizes exquisitely wun mo glow
ing color of the faille and a delicate
Greek pattern, traced witn silver
threads, outlines part of tne snouiaer
drapery.
Large Shops Show Smart
Spring Mourning.
Distinction In Line and Fabric Give
Character to Good Style.
THE. large shops are making more
and more special display of mourn
ing garb, for the importance of group
ing mourning wearables in one depart
ment, where styles in this kind ot rai
ment may be observed by the particular
women who are interested in them, is
beginning to be realized. Frocks, hats,
wraps, veils, boots and the small
things of dress, all in the most correct
mourning styles of the moment may be
viewed together and it is easy for the
woman in mourning to select just what
she needs without taking an exhaustive
survey of every other department in
the shop.
Since mourning- must do without the
element of color, utmost distinction of
line and fabric should give it its char
acter of good style; and the most im
portant item of the mourning costume.
without doubt, is tne nat. veus worn
with colored hats and every hat is
veiled these days, fall just over tne
shoulders, or on a level with the chin
In flare effect. To be different from
these veils, the 'mourning veil which
must express grief and not gaiety, as
other veils do should be of individual
style. The smartest veil for first
mourning, excepting the widow's veil
of ereoe. is two yards long, ol sun
mesh in hexagon weave, with a two-
inch border of crepe or heavy gross
grain silk. This veil is draped around
a small sailor-shaped hat or turban and
the bordered ends fall to the waistline
at the back. For light, second mourn
ing a tricorne sailor draped with a
flare or mantilla veil of dotted or fila-
dora mesh with a narrow ribbon border.
will be correct.
For the Sorine suit black mohair and
worsted mixture will be admirable and
the lines should be conservative and
smart with a skirt not too short fall
ing about to the instep of the buttoned
walking boot. And this boot should not
be of patent leather, but of dull calf
with a buttoned top of black cloth. For
cool. serviceable runabout frock,
nothing will give better satisfaction
than black pussy willow taffeta.
For the Engaeed Girl.
The engaged girl has many things'
that she must guard against if the
pathway of affection is to be all roses
unmixed with thorns.
The old saying that the course of true
love never did run smooth is quite
fallacious. ' There is no reason why the
time of engagement should be anything
but blissfully happy if proper wisdom
is displayed on the part of both man
and maid.
Jealousy kills love sooner than any
thing else. More engagements are
broken through the ridiculous and ill-
founded jealousy of lovers than through
any other cause.
Ill-temper is another thing that kills
love quickly. Perpetual little disagree.
ments are the death blow to affection.
Some foolish girls imagine that small
quarrels only endear them to their
fiances. Nothing could be more ab
surd. For small quarrels are as the
constant dripping of water which ef
fectually wears away the stone.
The wise girl will keep tne name or
her lovers affection burning brightly
and in every way will seek to
strengthen the chains of love by
kindliness, and, above all, tact
attached to this is a match scraper.
The four ash trays may be removed
from the holder and apportioned to the
smokers at one or two tables of bridge,
and when .fitted together again the
outfit makes an attractive addition to
tho den or card room, because of its
graceful shape and polished brass sur
face. Near the smoking set is a covered
humidor for cigars with a match-
scraper on top.
APPLIQUE EMBROIDERY
NEW NEjEDLEWORKFAD
Effective Designs Possible and Many Color Combinations Can Be Achieved
- by New Art, Which Is at Once Easy and Fascinating.
. k
-
APPLiai K EMBROIDERY
CAN you do applique embroidery on
linen? If not, take up this charm
ing branch of needlework at once,
for everybody will be making applique
centerpieces, sideboard scarves, pillow
covers and tray linings this Summer
on the hotel piazza. The work goes
rapidly and is easy to do two reasons
for the popularity erf this sort of em
broidery. The designs are effective
also, and pleasing color combinations
may be achieved by the application of
one linen over another in the way the
picture shows.
The plilow. intended for day use on
a formaly dressed bed, is of pale pink
and white tones. The ends of the pil
low are covered with pink goldenrod
satin gathered into rosettes from which
drop pink tassels; but around the cen
ter of the pillow goes a band of white
linen, finished at the edges with white
cotton fringe. This linen band is snap
GUEST TOWELS PRIZES
FOR BRIDGE IN LENT
Three Pretty New Designs Are Offered as Suggestions for Favors When
Society Would Be Unostentatious.
GUEST TOWELS FOR
DURING Lent one plays bridge. In
a quiet, unfrivolous way, but tea
and muffins are substituted for
cakes and ices afterward, and useful,
household things, instead of bits of
jewelry, corsage flowers and silk
stockings constitute the prizes. One
or two of the small guest towels which
every housekeeper finds so useful an
addition to her linen closet make n
excellent bridge prize. Three pretty
new designs in guest towels are pic
tured here. The topmost towel is of
fine linen with a border of striped
WOMEN MAY HAVE TO
LACE BOOTS UP BACK
Manufacturer Says New Models Are to Be More Radical Than Ever, Ne
cessitating Calisthenic Exercises and Earlier Hour for Rising.
FACING 'em up . the back is the
latest form of exercise devised by
the bnntmftkftrs for the foolish and
feminine sex. The conservative front
lacing and the. more recent radical
side lacing are, if a phominent shoe
manufacturer is to be believed, to
give way to a rear fastening charac
terized to turn that portion of the
human race which becomes addicted to
them into a set of calisthenic experts
that will make Houdini look like a
crowbar in comparison.
Already the saleswomen who will
have to fit customers in the new style
fave been thrown into a veritable
flutter at the prospect-
"Our fitting stools will be of no
earthly use whatever," say they, "and
getting a woman into a boot like that
will be exactly like shoeing a horse.
Perhaps we shall even be forced to lie
prone on the floor in order to effect
a perfect fit Alas for our poor backs."
The plight of the woman who buys
the boot is no less pathetic than that
of the one who sells it, particularly If
the latter is of considerable avoirdupois.
A whole new set of calisthenics, based
on the principles of those used by the
ladies in the circus who can bend back
ward and pick up a handkerchief with
their teeth, will of necessity come into
vogue. In fact, in the opinion of those
interested in the subject, tying and un
tying the knots with the teeth may be
vastly easier when it must be done from
the rear than performing tne same teat
with the fingers.
Before women achieve the suppleness
essential to a speedy lacing, however,
it is expected that alarm clocks will
have to be set back a whole half hour,
especially for the business woman
whose , duties demand her presence
downtown at a certain time. How
ever, what is a half hour when style
is concerned?
A worried man hearing of the new
lacing made anxious inquiries to dis
cover if men's shoes were to be influ
enced. On being told that as yet there
were no indications of the calamity, h
gasped out a sigh of relief.
" 'Twould be more oi a catastropne i
& 0
1
IPIP
Shis, mum a'w ni in if aawih n r .-
SKW NEEULEU'ORK FAD.
fastened together at the back and may
be removed from the satin pillow for
laundering. The design is worked only
across the front. First the oblong of
pink linen is basted to the white linen;
then the flower motifs are basued In
place, arranged to suit one's own
artistic notions. Some of the flowers
overlap each other and some overlup
the edge of the pink linen hackgroumi.
Each flower must be carefully busted
in pluca before the embroidery in
started. First buttonhole the pink
linen to the white at all eilnes, be
tween the overlapping flower petals:
then buttonhole each flower agalnet
the linen, using pink floss of medium
weight in a slightly lighter shade than
the pink background. The centers of
the flowers are worked in green.
The tray lining is made of pale green
and white linen; the buttonholed edges
are worked with heavy white floss and
the flower centers are done in black
floss of the lighter weight.
mm
- v r- 'Sin
LEXTEN BIIIDGK PRIZES.
pink and white linen applied with
hemstitcMing, and an embroidered de
sign in pink and pale green. The
towel in the center - Is of damask,
scalloped at the ends and trimmed with
heavy cluny lace and hand embrot
dery in two shades of blue. The third
towel at the bottom is of linen
huckabuck trimmed with coarse cluny
Insertion and scalloped at the end In
white and pink. A line of black de
fines the bold scalloping and the pink
embroidered flower motifs are outlined
with black. The medallion in' the cen
ter is also black.
for us than for the fair sex," he ex
plained, "because they at least have had
some little experience with rear lacing
their stays, you know. But we, alas.
have had no previous practice. It would
hit us hard.
At any rate those who have seen the
new shoes say that in combination with
the five inch from the ankle skirts they
present a blithe and debonnalr appear
ance .with their little bows tied in the
back, waving gaily in the breeze.
School Gardens Planned.
VANCOUVER, Wash.. March 20.
(Special.) Practically every school in
the city will have a school garden
again this year, so successful was the
first attempt last year. C. W. Shum
way. City Superintendent of Schools,
has secured suitable gardens for Ar
nada, Harney and Columbia schools,
and is now trying to find one for
Franklin and Central schools.
All the garden tracts will be plowed
and harrowed before the children start
Harmless "Fruit Laxative'
Cleanses Stomach, Liver
and Bowel3.
A oTInlnna inr fnp onnut inn t Inn
iili..w j. ------- -
biliousness, sick beadache, sour stom-
ich. indigestion, coaiea tongue, aai-
Fig's. For the cause of all Uiis dis
tress lies in a. mii iiu iivar aim biubsibii
bowels.
A hUfinnnn t ill foniflrht mMni .11
constipation, poieon, waste matter, fer
menting food ana sour one gently
moved out of your system by morning
Mill, DADDY AND
LOVE "CALIFORNIA
Indispensable
CORSETS
The ONLY corsets that
sell best in "hard limes,"
because they wear best
therefore are TIE MOST
EC0N0M5CAL
The ONLY staple line of
corsets In the market have
steadily grown in favor
throughout the corset mad
ness of the last two years.
The ONLY corsets that
combme perfect up-to-date
STYLE with realy effective
HYGIENIC SERVICE.
The ONLY corsets for which
there is no SUBSTITUTE
And So Regarded ly
Motions ol Women
The
Three
Best
Corsets
Ever
Made
for
Three
Various
Types
of the
Stout
Figure
V
81
ll
403
1
No. 322-$3.50
For all nvvruri full flffur. Firm
u p port. Md 1 u m k t rt w i th La ti
curve-Back. Medium buit. ISIce 71
to 86. In extra aire, up to 44 $5.
No. 326 itina, h tongtf ktrL
No. 403 -$4.00
For larff flfruraa, fleh tml
trtbutrd. Htni-I.tfc ftellaf Banoa
Wa fine aupporC Medium butt. Lonr
kirt with I.aaticarv-fiark. Wm 1
to 86. In extra alzea, up W 44 f 6.00.
No. 523-$5.00
For full, heavy firurwa. Famoaa
Laxtfkopa Hand let vHea perfect aup
port from underneath, fltronrl rec
ommended br dortora. Medium buat
and skirt. Sizes 22 to S6.
Oar Latest Invention
No. 341-$3.50
"InrUfbte" Self-Rdur1nr. with
concealed support in a strap. Al
ready a rreat favorite with women
who need Nemo Self -Red urine; eer
vie, but Kkea roreet a hit IifMer
Be a Wise Woman!
Get the Nemo Habit
SOLD EVERYWHERE
TV. Kim HrfW.ic-F.ihia iMtittt. tl. T.
their Kartleitw. Inlnre int.regt m
shown in the work lant yrnr. which
was the first attempt. Much w
learned by both pupils anil teachers
last year and irreat Improvement l
expect! thin year.
CHILDREN ALL
SYRUP OF FIGS"
without griping. Plena don't think nf
"California tiyrup ot Figs" as a physic.
Don't think you ar drugging yourreif
or your children, because this delicious
fruit laxative cannot cause Injurv.
Even a delicate child can take It as
safely as a robust man. It Is the moit
harmless, effective stomach. liver and
bowel regulator and tonlo ever devised.
Your only difficulty may be In set
ting the genuine, so aak your drugxWt
for a 60-cent bottle ot "California
gyrup of Figs." Say to your druKgiu
"I want only that made by the 'Cali
fornia Fig Syrup Company.'" This city
has many counterfeit "tig syrups, so
watch out. Adv. .....