Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 4, 1914)
TH"E SUNDAY OREGOXIAN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 4, 1914. 7 BLACK HAT AND OTHER FASHIONS TRACED TO PARIS SADDENED BY WAR Trench Women in Mourning Responsible for Sombre Chapeaux Now Ordered for Milady and Military Trimmings, Finding Place In Styles, Were Prompted by Camp and Eed Cross Scenes American Buyers Active. No. 1 Georgette Model of Black Velvet, With Straight Ostrich Tips) Ljlnc Flat on the Brim and a White Rose on the Side. No. 2 Bechoff.Dnvld Model of Red Velvet With Cardinal Cape, Trimmed With Bands of Otter. IV o. 3 Beenlllet Model of Gold Brocade With Lace Tunic and Jet Trimming;. The Bottom of the Skirt la Short at One Side and Edited With Skunk. No. 4 Suit of Broirn Velvet With Flaring- Coat and Full Skirt Which Hangs in a Point Front and Back. Skunk Collar and Cuffs. No. S Smart Little Coat of Seal, With Skunk Collar and Cnffs. The Vest Is of Yellow Velvet. No. 6 The New Evening; Models Show a Very Low Line at the Back of the Decolletage. (Copyright, 1914, by McCluro Newspa per Syndicate.) PARIS. Sept. 1. (Special.) First, it was the white satin hat that the milliners offered as the last thing in headgear, and. now it is the black velvet hat again. Evidently there is no road that leads far away from this kind of millinery. It is not easy to tell whether the mil liners want to get away from it. or whether the women will not permit It. It is easily seen, by watching buyers, that the preference goes toward black rather than any other; this could be sorrowfully explained if the buyers were French women who consider it In better taste to avoid colors while so many thousands of their country wo men are In mourning; this decision was reached the first week of the war and was quite in keeping with the national air of solemnity with which these people went to battle. Americans Good Buyers. But there are constant openings in all centers of fashion because the Americans are plentiful and seem to have money to buy a few clothes, if not the usual amount. This is for rea- lost baggage somewhere along the line; also for reasons more humane the riving of employment to girls and women Vho have no other means of staving off starvation. In this especial field the individual charities of American women have been numerous, but necessarily re stricted on account of the paucity of luggage allowed by the railroad au thorities. However, there lave been new fashions galore, for the French designers had all their things ready by the fifth of August and managed to conduct the senii-annuat openings as usual. The great shops have been able to pull together and reopen, and the gal erlea Lafayette, as usual, have come to the front with remarkably good fashions at moderate prices. At all the milliners the race is be tween the Mack hat trimmed with white, and the white hat trimmed in white. Women prefer the former, al though there is no doubt that the lack of color tells seriously on the looks of the average woman. It is difficult to understand why every woman thinks she can wear all black. Xo amount of arguing will persuade her otherwise. She will buy a hat in this somber shade, putting it on with any and every gown, and feel that cense of security given by the tradition that black Is the ace of trumps In the game of dress. White Trimming Ordered. This season, fashion has arranged a better scheme for her, so that her un doing will not be easily accomplished. It demands that the large black velvet surface bo trimmed with white. Vel vet flowers are among the first choice although they are not new; and waxed leaves, white silk roses, a plain band of grosgrain ribbon arranged in a flat bow. are among the garnitures ex ploited. fewer iiiroans are seen than for three years. What the French call canotiers are fn first style; they are an enlarged sailor shape with a flat crown. Nothing stands upright. All trim ming is low and has the effect of be ing plastered on the soft surface. Many persons are disappointed that the promised fashion for velvet did not materialize. It is seen more in millin ery L II til! ill tivwia. Drescoll snows more or it than the other couturiers, especially in brilliant colors, as, for instance, in an infantry red velvet afternoon frock, quite trans parent at the neck by reason of the use of white tulle. This kind of red Is a difficult color, and no woman should buy it unless she is quite cer tain she can stand It and is financially able to reinforce it with other gowns. Red Only for the Rich. Only the rich woman can wear red clothes. They are only tolerable once in a while; as a steady thing, they are exhausting. A red hat is happily out of fashion. Red roses on black velvet hats are very well in their way, and the addition of a red infantry band of ribbon finished in a flat bow at the side is rather attractive above a young face, but there the usage of red on the head, ceases. For house and theater wear, the cou turiers are showing " light red voile frocks, made with wide skirts and slim blouses that neglect to outline the waist line. Near the hips is a corselet effect of red silk that fastens straight down the front with red velvet buttons. By the way, there is no end to these corselet additions to every kind of frock, but the one intended for ceremonious eve ning wear. The kind that extended to the neck, ending in a white lace collar the original that Premet brought out last Spring has been superseded by this other garment, which undoubtedly had its origin in the former. Its popu larity is another sign of the way fashions have of making an exaggerat ed beginning and then sobering down to a cenvenient and wearable form. Long Corselet In Vogue. It is probable that we shall see too much of this form of Jacket, or corselet applied to gowns this "Winter, but that disaster has to be met in connection with every fashion that appeals to the practical usages of everyday life. It is a sign of its real service, and there are so many fashions that are evidently formed only by caprice, that one which can be worn by the majority of women meets with deserved success. One thing is certain; there is no re vival of velvet coat suits for the street. This is a good piece of news to those who have always disliked the use of this material for everyday purposes. There are velvet coats, short. Jaunty affairs that flare out from the waist line, but they carry skirts of cloth be low them. Even these are not in tended for anything but formal after noon wear. Rough cloths maintain their prestige; and one gets few velvets until one gets into the realm of elabo rate afternoon cloths; and In evening gowns satin and colored tulle rule. "When the house of Callot showed its evening gowns, it did so mournfully, and yet it was the few purchases of the Americans for trade and individual use, that kept the workrooms open during this month and gave employment and money to hundreds of women and girls. Whether the amount of money taken in balanced the amount of money spent In preparing the models, is a financial problem that no one can settle; but If it had not been for the American trade during the openings, slight as it was in comparison to other years, there would have been far more hungry peo ple in Paris than there are now. Narrow Skirts Remain. However, there was nothing philan thropic in the effort of the American buyers to get the clothes that repre sented the newest fashion, no matter how beneficial may have been its re sult. What they bought cannot fail to I be of interest, for, as I have empha sized before, the Paris houses turned the trick in fashions during this month by having their regular openings and snowing- a new silhouette. The change in evening gowns was not so marked as in day clothes. Skirts are still narrow and short. There is a great deal of drapery at knees and ankles which gives the effect of im mense fulness to the whole skirt, and one only perceives by close observa tion that there is no freer movement in the underskirt than we have had for three years. The extreme shortness is supposed to obviate the narrowness. Callot and Premet used so much jet in various colors that the Galeries La fayette took up the idea at once. One can always feel the popular pulse at this place. What the people have liked at the great houses, that is what the Galeries show; and it is now selling white . evening gowns with moonlight Jet, and black tulle gowns with a great deal of black Jet, at the amazing price of $30. I have seen American women carry ing away four and five such gowns at a time, packed in pasteboard boxes, as hand luggage to the ships. The gowns that Callot shows - have wonderfully colored Jet on them; it is Oriental and Russian and gives the ef fect of barbaric Jewelry. Gowns of Moonlight Jet. This may be in comrliment to their ally, Russia, but I fear .it was invented too far in advance of the war to have any relation to present events. Callot maintains the moyen-age line in everything, and this gives her a chance to girdle the hips with a huge belt of colored Jet finished with a large motif in front. Premet has a gown which she calls clair de lune which has a short hip drapery of moonlight Jet, placed flatly over the figure. There is another gown in which the entire corsage Is made from swinging strands of iridescent Jet She has another of which the entire tunic, full at the hem. and arranged in points, is of large blocks or squares of carved Jet; this is combined with black tulle. Happy news to most women! If one had the time to dissect the new coat, called Louis Sixteenth, which Madame Cherult invented this month, it would prove an interesting study. A well-known American who bought one announced that she intended to substitute it for a picture puzzle on the homeward trip. Picture puzzles, by the way, have leaped baok Into popular favor during the war, because, men, women and chil dren are piecing together war maps and placing flags at the correct posi tion in the "zone of operations." Children are being taught the work by their governesses, and through this, the fashion has spread. No one In America can realize the tedium of the long days and nights in Paris fjor those who have no work to d,o. who cannot get h,ome, who are stranded in a city where every avenue of amusement and recreation is closed. Picture Pussies Amuse. As thousands here do not speak the French language even, they cannot get at the French viewpoint by conversing with the people in the streets; there fore these picture-puzzle war maps with all their little flags have proved a boon and a blessing to the idle. Every day'the papers publish a small map of the "zone of operations" of the day before, and this is pinned before the puzzle. One can wander at any hour of the day into the secluded court, yards of the hotels that are filled with Americans and find them eagerly at work on this one form of amusement. "Dozens of these maps will go back to America as souvenirs of one of the most terrible Summers that most Amer icana have ever spent. You see. it is hard to keep on the subject of fashions, and yet it is a safety valve to have to do It. In writ ing them in this corner of the boule vards with war news being cried on the streets every moment, with some excitement to call one to the window every second, with this tense atmos phere in Paris pressing upon one like an iron band, one feels when writing of clothes like the woman who played solitaire when the Grand Republic was going down. , Fashions keep one's mind off the war for a few moments at" s time, and as long as there are new fashions intro duced by the courageous couturleres every day or so, the work of a fashion reporter ie cut out for her. Coat Reaches Knees. Therefore, to business: There is this new coat by Cheruit. It reaches well over the knees a fact which you al ready know and it ripples from waist to hem and has a straight unbroken slim top part that clings- to the figure at every point except the waistline. So much for the outline, but this de scription does not give any idea of the complicated method ' that has been adopted to build this coat. No Amer ican cutter will be able to achieve it without a model. The peplum, for example, gains its flare by being built from godet sec tions only a few inches wide. You can imagine how many seams this makes belpw the waist! Then there is a seam around the hips where the full peplum is joined to the narrow upper part. As this seam does not go across the back it dips downward and .makes two lines on each side of the spine. Under each arm there are from five to seven" seams which have their nucleus in a large thick arrowhead of self-colored embroidery and each seam divides two narrow bias segments of the fabric all of which runs to the pep lum. t One woman likened their appearance to the steamship maps showing dotted trans-Atlantic lines, which are now mere mockery. No wonder she looked at them mournfully; she had tried five steamship offices, consuming hours a day doing it. In a futile effort to get back to New York. War Creates Styles. It is well known that two of the best designers in Paris continued their work of creating styles from camp and from the Red Cross hospital, so this may account for the fact that the new sleeve shows a brassard of embroidery. Premet puts it on a dark blue one piece frock, using dull colors of silk floss which match two pointed pieces that are placed on the hips, or rather in front of the hips, and carry out the colors used in a belt that goes across the front, below the waistline and slips through two straight slides of the serge placed at the under-arm seams. There are other kinds of brassards on sleeves made of plain bands of ma terial with a symbol or ornament worked in the middle. Even when there is no application in color, there is a three-inch band that divides the upper and lower sleeve midway be tween elbow and shoulder. It is natural that this sleeve should suggest itself to any designer in this hour. So many brassards have been worn in Paris since mobilization began that the government has had to step in and reduce the number and deny the privilege. The government itself must give permission, or the brassard will be investigated. All the people at tached to the various ministries, even in the humblest capacity, wear bras sards on the lvift arm to indicate their position; the Red Cross workers wear their badge, all the officials at the sta tions wear white and gold brassards. Whoever Is doing whatever work throughout the government is empow ered to put on this arm badge which serves as a protection, as well as an indication to the public. Brassard XTse Barred. ' The government rightly thought that too many people were taking advan tage of the protective part and there fore curtailed the right to wear the brassard; and the whole episode event ually gave rise to a fashion. Hundreds of Americans may have this sleeve in their gowns this Winter without realizing its significance and Its origin. It is a good touch and pro vides a wide scope for ingenuity. It is best to limit it on a coat, for the dominating sleeve in the outer gar ment is long, small, untrimmed, and set into a regulation armbole. Because of the sllmness of the top part of the new coats there is not a fraction of an inch used at the top of the sleeve more than is necessary. The armhole is not outlined by a cord as it was once, but is smoothly fitted into the shoulder. When one uses the brassard on a blouse, it is best to put it on both arms and make it of embroidery, if possible. It is still fashionable to use a broad ly striped ratine for a high collar and the back, and this fashion has sug gested the use of the material as a wide band on the sleeve. Remember that these bands are not applied; they are a part of the original sleeve, which may be cut with a ki mono top, or in three parts. It is equally fashionable to have an arm hole, or to omit one. Despite all the inconvetflence of the baggy kimono shoulder, its use is continued by some of the best designers. American Bayers Disappointed. The American buyers who were here for the openings and they were few in number, because they were kept away from the city by lack of trans portation were disappointed in the fact that evening gowns remained much as they had been. Callot made the only definite de parture, and she had outlined this de parture in one gown that she exploited last Spring. It was called Eastern then, and Moyen-age now, as the latter name is attached to everything that drops in a straight line from shoulder to hips. Again she shows the long-waisted bodice of transparent gauze, usually carrying colored flowers, and the tight lower skirt, and the broad belt at the hips. While this gown is especially at tractive for young women, and even for women over 30 who have a slim girlish figure, it is not the type of evening gown that can be freely in dulged in. It requires too much style to carry it off for the average woman to wear it. As a rule, it is not a gown that will meet with instant popularity except among an ultra smart set. Other gowns shown at other houses continue to be vague and indefinite in outline with amazingly short skirts festooned with tulle, and blouses that have regular normal waistlines, sleeve less, and cut very low in the back. Gown Is Clean-Cut. Callot shows one gown that is so strikingly like the model for which Worth has. always been famous: and one has an intuitive feeling that this is to be her next move in silhouette. It has a wrapped bodice that goes in a slightly bias line under the arms, has white tulle over the shoulders, and a simply draped skirt with a train. The whole makes a clean cut, long line of black. It is quite unlike anything Callot has done for years and is a distinct departure from her method. It is probably a trifle more transparent above the bust than Worth allows, but everyone knows that Callot caters to the kind of women that like a sensa tional touch. Another difference between this gown and what Worth would make is in the absence of rhinestones; that cele brated house never relinquishes this form of garniture and is using it to day. Worth, by the way, like Paquin made a showing in London during Au gust, and has now opened the. house here to catch whatever American trade is passing. To sum up the situation In evening clothes: One can. go on with the styles of last "Winter. Satin 13 again used. Answers to Correspondents BT LILIAN TIHGLE. PORTLAND. Or., Sept. 8. Will yon pleas rive me a recipe for Torkshlre pudding T Should the oven be moderate or rather hot for baking ltT Also, please five a recipe for tomato catsup. X would like this as soon as possible. Thanking you very kindly, MR 3. it. C. Yorkshire Pudding Mix a smooth, thin batter with 2 eggs. 1 cup milk. 1 cup sifted flour and one-half teaspoon salt. Have ready a baking tin. about 10 Inches square, hissing hot and con taining 4 or 6 tablespoons very hot beef drippings. Pour the batter into this and put into a hot oven. Bake at least 30 minutes, until not only vory puffy and well browned, but until it is firm enough not to fall when taken from the oven. Cut in squares and serve, very hot, with roast beef and brown gravy. As a "daughter of Yorkshire" I can assure you of the "genuineness" of this recipe. It is im portant to have the pan, the fat and the oven all very hot or the "pudding" will be a heavy, doughy mass. A recipe for tomato catsup w given recently, September 28, I think, but here is a somewhat different one: Tomato ketchup with green peppers Four quarts sliced ripe tomatoes, 8 green peppers, seeded and chopped, 1 onion finely chopped, 4 tablespoons salt, 1 quart vinegar. Cook until soft, then put through sieve and add 2 tablespoons white pepper, 2 tablespoons mustard and 1 tablespoon allspice. Boll slowly three hours and seal when cold. The onion or the peppers or both may be omitted if the simpler flavor is pre ferred. A clove of garlic is added by some makers. See also the answer below to Mrs. W. H. C. Portland, Or., Aug. 2T. Will you kindly print in The Sunday Oregonian a recipe for plccalalll. made without boiling? Thanking you for many past favors. MRS. R. N. The delay in answering your letter is due partly to recent illness and ab sence from Portland and partly to the fact that I am not clear as to what you want. English Piccalilli is a hot mixed mustard pickle containing on ions, cauliflower, cucumber beans, small peppers and radish pods. It is sharp, highly seasoned and has no trace of sugar. German Plcallill is, ap parently, a green tomato sliced pickle, without mustard. American recipes under this name vary all the way from a chopped green tomato and cab bage relisn to a slightly sweetened mild mustard pickle made with cu cumbers, cauliflower and onions. Please write again, give me a hint of what you had in mind and I will try to give you a prompt answer. Portland, Or., Aug. 27. Kindly give In The Bunday Oregonian a recipe for quince honey, also foT tomato catsup. Southern atyle, with spices, preferred. MRS. W. H. C. Quince Honey For every pound of ripe, juicy quince allow one pound of sugar and one cup of water. Make a syrup and boil to the thread stage. Meanwhile grate the quinces and add to the syrup boiling about 15 minutes. or until thick and honey-like. Seal like Jelly in small glasses. Spiced Tomato Catsup One peck ripe tomatoes, 4 onions, 1 quart vinegar, 3 green peppers, 3 cups brown sugar, 2 tablespoons ground ginger. 3 table' spoons salt, 2 tablespoons each black pepper, mustard, cloves, celery seed (in a bag), cinnamon, allBpice and mustard seed. Cook the vegetables in their own juice until tender. Rub through a sieve, add the spioes and vinegar. boll 2 hours, or until thick, bottle ana seal while hot. Spiced Tomato Catsup IL One-half Dushel tomatoes, hi cup salt, 4 cups sugar, o large onions, 1 quart vin egar, 2 grated nutmegs. 1 te.osDoon each cloves and "cinnamon, cayenne to taste, prepare as above. Both these are or Southern origin. Portland. Or., Sept. 8. Kindly publish as soon as convenient (1) a recloe for mush room catsup; (2) Just how are tea balls used in making tea. Is It as good a way as ma usual metnou- measuring and steep ing three minutes? ' M Ft Mushroom catsup Put fresh "flan" mushrooms, broken in pieces, into a jar witn salt sprinkled between the layers. Let stand three days, stirring every cay. use aoout three-fourth cup salt to four quarts mushrooms. The mushrooms should be wiped and the ends of the stems cut off. After three days drain without pressure. To one quart liquor add one tablespoon al- spice, one tablespoon ginger, one-half teaspoon (or less) cayenne, one tea spoon mace, one teaspoon cloves. Boil until reduced one-third and bottle while not. The "squeezings" of the mushrooms may be used for thicker "second cat sup" for use in sauces. A stronger flavor of mushrooms is obtained by using only one teaspoon whole peppercorns and one teaspoon mace ana Doiiing the clear liquid ob tained as above until reduced one half. A teaball, containing a suitable meas ured quantity of tea, is placed in the teapot or cup (according to the amount of tea desired) and boiling water is poured on. After a time of from three to six minutes, varying with the kind of tea and the taste of the maker. the teaball is withdrawn and the tea may be served at once or kept hot with out danger of "oversteeping." No tea should remain in contact with the water for more than six minutes, at the most, and the tea ball is convenient in se curing this without the pouring of the liquid from one teapot to another. The teaball is sometimes made a part of the teapot and is raised above the water by a little chain and hook when the time is up. Small teaballs, or covered perforated teaspoons, are convenient for making single cups of tea without a teapot, either for a solitary bachelor or spin ster or for a sucession of guests who "drop In" for tea, and for each of whom the fragrance of a perfectly fresh In fusion is thus secured. The tea is, you see, made by "the usual method," teaball or no teaball. Portland. Or., Aug. 18. I am taking the liberty of writing you asking if you will kindly give me some Information which I am very desirous of obtaining and which I understand you . gladly give through your associations with the Oregonian. First I would like a good Welsh rarebit recipe. Kludly rive me all the little essen tlal .points to keep the sauce from curdling. GIRLS! HAVE BEAUTIFUL, LUSTROUS, FLUFFY HAIR 25 CENT DANDERINE No More Dandruff or Falling Hair A Real Surprise Awaits You. To be possessed of a head of heavy, beautiful hair; soft, lustrous, fluffy, wavy and free from dandruff is merely a matter of using a little Danderine. It is easy and inexpensive to have nice, soft hair and lots of it. Just get a 25-cent ' bottle of Knowlton's Danderlne now all drug stores recom mend it apply a little as directed and within ten minutes there will be an appearance of abundance: freshness, fluffiness and an incomparable gloss and a great deal of tulle, but the drap ery is dropped to the knees and is no longer at the hips. There is a marked tendency, however, on the part of one or two good houses, to bring back the high decolletage of the Moyen-age. It is undoubtedly ugly! as I faavs experienced trouble at this point, and there must be some minute detail that might aid me In making a perfect dish. -Second Kindly give me directions for adding cheese to tomato sauce, so that it will come out perfectly smooth. Third Is there a recipe for a plain cheese sauce. If so. I would like It Relative to the second question I would say that my tomato sauce comes out per fectly, but when I add the grated cheese It does not seem to come out smooth, al though I am very careful not to have the sauce boiling when 1 add the cheese. In fact I take It from the stove and add the cheese tnen. could you kindly tell me where my trouble Is? Fourth I would also like to Inquire will there be a nlrht school of domestic science In the high schools this Winter, and If so when will it begin? I attended last- year and received so much benefit and Interest from It that I am very anxious to know if I wll! be afforded the pleasure of attending the coming Winter as there was nothing so beneficial and nothing so appreciated as was my course there, and especially as a working girl I doubly appreciated my op portunity to attend such an instructive class under your most efficient supervision. Thanking you very kindly for any enlight enment you may give on these subjects. G. E. a. I am sorry for the delay in answer ing your letter, due to the reasons given above to another correspondent. It is never possible for me to answer by mail. I have not space to answer all your questions, in full, this time, so will begin at the end and continue "in our next."' 4. Yes, there will be evening classes In cooking, beginning October 12. An nouncements will be made, in full, probably during the coming week. I am, indeed, glad you found last year's class so useful, and shall hope to wel come you this year, too. 3. A plain cheese sauce may be made by adding any preferred quan tity of broken or grated cheese to an ordinary white or cream sauce and stirring until smooth. The exact amount of cheese depends upon the strength of the cheese and the person al taste of the maker. 2. I see no particular reason why you should have trouble with your cheese and tomato sauce. Possibly your tomato sauce is not thickened enough for a "cheese and tomato sauce." If you care to send me the recipe you use I might perhaps see where the trouble lies, but "tomato sauce" is rather vague, you know. I'll try to give you a detailed Welsh rarebit recipe later, when I have plenty of space. Let me know whether you want one with or without ale, and with or without egg thickening. ALBANY, Or., Sept. 24. Will you please puDiisn in next Sunday s uregoman direc tions for canning salmon? A number of us want to can our salmon next week and would like to follow your suggestions if It Is possible to get them in this week's paper. MRS. A. L. ii. I am sorry to disappoint you, but your letter reached me after last Sun day's correspondence was in the hands of the printer. Directions for canning salmon were given three weeks ago, and therefore cannot be repeated at present- Full Skirts Come Again THE dressmakers were not content to bring out only a full coat for the Autumn. They have also brought out a skirt that is four yards at the hem. This realizes the dream of the conservative woman. Strange, isn't it, that this serious and u,psettlng innova tion should have been launched in war time, when It will be extremely dif ficult to find the amount of required material In the French houses. The wheels of industry may go on after the first demoralization is over, but the Europeans do not speak hopefully of such a contingency. In America, the situation in dress fabrics should be admirable. Here, for the first time, the mills are partly paralyzed and shipments are uncer tain; nothing of any Importance can get through to the States in time for the first Autumn clothes, and only the early worm who bought French fab rics before seeing the new gowns will have much to offer to the American buyer. Just here is where the American mills should reap a harvest. As the professional buyers who managed to arrive in. Paris before all transporta tion stopped, and bought a few frocks they could carry home in the hand, did not risk waiting for fabrics in the piece, it Is highly- probable they will offer models copied in American ma terials. - We weave good serge there, and serge is fashionable. Velours de laine Is restored to high favor and fash ionable frocks are made of taffeta, plain and moire weaves trimmed wifh velvet ribbon. All these America can supply; and skirts are full, so are coats, therefore twice the material is need for the new gowns over what was used for the old ones. The shops and the factories should profit by it. The new skirt shown by Premet, Cheruit, Drecoll and Bernard is quite different from the wide skirts of other days. The manipulation of the hem saves the ankle line from that special kind of ugliness that attached itself to the old-time wide skirt. There is a point, front and back, causing a slight lifting of the material at the side. The hips are flat; not a ripple of drapery is allowed there, and all the fullness is conserved for the easy flare that takes place at the point of the bips; this continues to the hem which arranges Itself in a. slight festoon be cause of tne points front and back. Premet gives a broad flat line to the hips at the sides by placing wide box pleats there which are sometimes held down for several inches by the kind of embroidery for which this house is famous; and which is done by the hus band of the chief designer, who died last Spring. BATTLE NAMING DIFFICULT Front of Many Miles Includes Sev eral Tonus Along Line. LONDON, Sept. 25. The modern bat tle line is so long that it can no longer be indicated by the narne of a town or and lustre and try as you will you can not find a trace of dandruff or falling hair; but your real surprise will be after about two weeks' use. when you will see new hair fine and downy at first yes but really new hair sprout ing out all over your scalp Danderine is, we believe, the only sure hair grow er; destroyer of dandruff and cure for itchy scalp and it never fails to stop falling hair at once. If you want to prove how pretty and soft your hair really Is, moisten a cloth with a'lltUe Danderine and carefully draw it through your hair taking one small strand "at a time. Your hair will be soft, glossy and beautiful In just a few moments a delightful surprise awaits everyone who tries this. Adv. T70R Economy FASHION wise: women KNOW WHY! THOUSANDS of stout Tuomen, after a year or more of courting the "natural figure," find themselves hope less masses of shapeless flesh. Now that the defined taisi line is coming bac, they are praying for some means io re gain their former symmetrical proportions. KopService Corset No. SSI will render this service. to I'M KOPSERV1CE No. S51:$5.00 The BEST corse for Perfect. from the anuB-MtmS BiriwH Ion, flexible skirt. Styluh rM" brld' 1 wWe fanbremtbm tmvxm or dls- pacel ibs fas- Freneh eon til; Fine white 2lto8-5.00. Then there's KopService No. 552; very similar, but with elastic front-gores instead of the deep bust-gores $5.00. And Self-Reducing No. 506, with elastic In-Curva Back and four elastic skirt gores $5.00. And the new "Duplex" Self Redudng, with incurved front steels and In-Curve Back, $3.50. And Self-Reducing No. 403, an old favorite, vastly improved this season; best for some full figures $4.00. Ask Your Dealer to show you these and all the other Fall Nemos. Be sure to get the model that suits your fig -that means corset-joy. SOLD EVERYWHERE Vwmm Hnksic-Faskiea UtfitsU, Hew Terk a village. Some writers have already named the recent fight, very Inaptly, as the battle of Charleroi. It is true that the historic custom is to give a battle the name of the town or village unlucky enough to bo nearest. But In this case it would have to be called the battle of Dlnant-Namur-Charleroi-Mons. Probably the custom will grow up of using river names. It is quite possible the battle will come to be known as the battle of the Bambre et Meuse. About the first thing a man does when he returns to the village of his nativity is talk about his salary. Youthful, Beautiful Skin Easy to Have You may be as healthy as a bird in the air and still have a poor com plexion. Changing seasons and tem peratures, winds, dust and dirt, are apt to injure any skin, even though the general health be good. When these external influences spoil the com plexion, the natural thing is to remove the spoil by external means. Ordinary mercolized wax will do this. It will actually absorb the weather-beaten, film-skin, a little each day. In a week or two you'll have a brand new complexion, a new skin. The ex quisitely beautiful and youthful com plexion thus acquired comes so easily, without harm or discomfort, there's no reason why any woman should not adopt this simple treatment. Get an ounce of mercolized wax at any drug store, apply nightly like cold cream, washing it off mornings. This will not fall in any case. To quickly remove wrinkles, signs of care and ae, bathe the face occa sionally in a solution of powdered sax olite, 1 oz., dissolved in H Pt- witch hazel. The results will surprise you. Adv.