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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 5, 1914)
8 THE SODaY ORECJOMAX, PORTLAND, APRIL o, 1914. A Close Rancie Study cfeCtleKfppcnesc lyd Rriland Traveler They Haw Many Rroblems More Vital Tkan. Exclusion Yrcm CalifcrniQ . BY WALTER McBRlDE.. JAPAN is the land of enchantment.. Almost everybody at some time . dreams of going there. To gain say its charm is akin to confessing the eternally calm face of the great stronger feeling of dislike. Others with, no more discrimination see In these amiable courteous people merely smiling dolls. Still others err by pre suming to see no faults of any kind. I had come into contact with Japan ese In various ways long before I went Aw4 rteii Pl III 'SfjJ I nn XyjJ&7A aaaco ru,A UVA JT f 11,11 I .777 f, I I i . wms& c?J yui u, t -59UUill, . . '''Willi U I 1 - . --I '-.r U . Ire i-' clO1 J2iJ33.ArcZJe'c. 2S2tz of sion which neems to prevail. I found their methods entirely ethical. One was never importuned to buy. He was In variably invited to Inspect the wares, of whatever sort they might be, and the size of one s purchase never seemed absence of an esthetic faculty. Few to determine one's treatment. That per travelers who have seen its wonders feet politeness which characterizes the would think of disputing the claim people of all classes, is especially that it Is one of the most beautiful marked in the keepers of shops, regions in the world. That person who can behold the ma- My memories of my long: sojourn at jestic peak of Fujiyama at sunset with the Cherry Mount Hotel in Yokohama a golden mist behind it. or roam are a Pleasure to recall for many rea through the mighty forest at Nikko sons. Our proprietor was a Japanese without being thrilled, or look Into the ?an or whom one could have only highest Buddha at Kamakura without being ment. compared with those in America, made profoundly aware of his own was a rather poor affair, but despite its mortality, ought never to leave home, barn-like apartments and tawdry fur To all such travel is a wasted effort, n'shings, Akon San's genial personality It would be difficult to find an area and his tireless efforts to make us com of similar extent possessing so many fortable made it seem almost homelike, natural attractions as this little island ur room boys were all that one could empire. From Hokkaido in the north desire. They needed only to learn one's to the Bay of Nagasaki in the south tastes and habits In order to anticipate there is revealed a succession of scenes OIe's wishes, and so thoughtful and as exquisite as any one has ever pic- careful were they that the best of feel tured in Imagination. always prevailed. While there is a very marked agree- Their efficiency, fidelity and self-ef- tnent among travelers and foreigners 'aement were always quite beyond my residing in Japan as to the natural comprehension. Our under-clerk at the charms of the country, there is by no OIf'ce, a young Japanese of 22. was one means the same unanimity of opinion Jf the most engaging young men that regarding the virtues of its inhabi- 1 came to know. Despite his multifar- tants. Rather the tendency would ious duties, which ranged from caring seem to be to give these people credit Ior the mail, running errands and mak- for. little that is admirable. Tourists ln blueprints, to serving tea. he was from America who are In Japan for a absolutely dependable. .Whatever was few days or a few weeks, bringing in expected of him he did smilingly and most cases a well-defined prejudice w'th dispatch. I shall never forget his with them, after an encounter or two many favors for me. or his gracious with surly or avaricious rikisha men manner and his picturesque appearance are ant to proceed on their travels with " ""' mitten Kimonos. 1 One safer in Tokohama on the darkest night than he would be In New York. Such a thing as an attack on a foreigner is very rare. I cannot say whether this is because of the inherent virtue of the Japanese or because of the vigilance of the police. For a time to Japan. Tears ago in the boarding alter my arrival I always used 'rikishas houses of San Francisco there were no narrow, aimiy ngntea Japanese waiters and elevator boys, streets presented to my mind an Ideal They were generally either stolid, lm- setting for robbery or violence. Both pertinent, lazy, deceitful, much more In- mT Japanese and foreign friends terested in acquiring knowledge than aehed at my timidity, and I came to in performing their, duties. Later in hav no feeling of uncertainty as re the beet sugar fields of the Spreckels Kards attack of any kind. Company in Monterey County. I had an In Toklo. Kobe. Kyoto and Nagasaki opportunity to observe those conditions 1 'went about day and night without which have since seemed to demand tne least fear. I must say, however, restrictive legislation. that Japan has her full share of crim- As an assistant secretary to the Hon- ir.als and the accounts of revolting orary Commercial Commission from murders and crimes constantly appear Japan, which visited the United States in the Press. Our rooms at the Cherry in 1909, I got my first real insight into Mount were always unlocked and In the the Japanese character. The commis- Summer time the windows were wide sion was made up of representative Pen. No one seemed to think It neces buslness men from the chief cities of Mry to guard his belongings, the country, and many of these gentle- When you come to the Japanese chil men were of very high character anJ dren yu "re getting very close to the intelligence. During the three months eart of these mysterious people. The I traveled with them I formed friend- love r "Parents for children Is their ships that have endured and that have most beautiful trait and one that is constituted a large element in my en- Quite easy to understand. Children are Jovment of my year's stay in Japan. called a name that means "treasure While I found much to admire In flowers" and it seems quite to express many of these high-class men, I think the tender relation that exists between my opinion of the Japanese generally parents and their offspring. Anyone was not greatly changed until I went who can withstand the charm of even to live in Yokohama.. Remembering an average Japanese child is Indeed the old days in California. I expected deficient in feeling. I found them the . to find the people of Japan proud, in- most fascinating children in the world, solent. grasping and enamored of the Without anything like the Intellect or military Ideal. I found them on the personality of an American child, their contrary the most gentle, patient and gciod nature and gentle manners give amiable people I have ever met. From them an attraction that it is impossl the highest to the lowest I received ble to analyze. nothing but graclousness and courtesy. I found the Japanese an unusually Thsir dignified and friendly attitude, attractive people in many ways polite, not only toward each other, but toward deferential, amiable, considerate, ob foreigners as well, was a revelation to liging. I do not. however, believe that me. Excepting 'rikisha men. who seem they care much for the foreigner. i at least In the treaty ports consti- That trait of aloofness which has in tutlonally excitable. I do not recall fluenced their entire history, cannot ever seeing a disturbance between for- be surmounted. Tourists are welcomed, elgners and Japanese. Subjected to the of course, since entire communities ' exactions and impatience of tourists or thrive on their expenditures, foreign residents, they never seem to Japan Is not a rich country. In fact lose for a moment that self-control it is a very poor one. The most amas whlch is quite a marvelous trait. While lng thing about the Japanese people is their slowness was often both disap- their ability to make so much out of a pointing and annoying. I was fortunate meagre opportunity. With every in having no .difficulties with shop-, square inch of available land taken, keepers, and contrary to the jnpres- with burdensome taxes, and with pov erty widespread, vit is not to be won dered at that tho presence of the pros perous, patronizing foreigner is re sented. That Japanese should manifest any friendliness toward foreigners is evi dence of their consummate tact. In Yokohama the relations bewteen Jap anese and foreigners are peculiar. The Yokohama foreign settlement is made up largely of English people and as everyone knows, they have the strong est race prejudice of any people on earth. The disposition of most of them toward all nationalities outside their, own is one of either superiority or indifference. The social code in Yokohama is rigid and the atmosphere dull and formal. Their caste Ideas are pronounced and I regret to say that many Americans adopt the same super cilious attitude. To see anything worthy In the Japanese Is a breach of decorum, is In fact to be hopelessly ordinary. One sometimes wonders that the Japanese endure them at all. At the time oi the land legislation in California there was a good deal of bitter feeling among the Japanese, but no such display of it as the American press has tended to convey. In order to understand their point of view one must take into consideration the fact that the Japanese are naturally a proud and sensitive race. Their splendid victories over the Chinese and the Russians, their advancement in gov ernment, education. commerce, and science they feel, justifies them In. claiming absolute equality with Cau casian nations. ' Any disparagement they will not tol erate. The action of the State of Cali fornia seemed to them a most unjust discrimination, particularly in view of the restriction against further Immi gration from Japan. They had re signed themselves to the loss of that privilege. The land act they regarded as an Insult, as an implication that they were inferior . and undesirable. Their case has been weakened a good deal by the fact that the very rights for which they contended In California they have never been willing to con cede to aliens at home. Indeed every effort is made to curtail the activities of the foreigner in Japan. No oppor tunity is afforded him to compete with Japanese, and It is predicted that In the course of time the foreign mer chants will be forced out of Japan. At t - , x ... ... ; V-. v'5L' - 1 'v. 4 f t. . St . , . a T ... - - j -'ft w i Scene, zn y&2c2z JZczruiZ Tojcfo. that If Japan should ever find us at lem which Japan has to deal with la a disadvantage that she would Dot use' that within her own borders. Social it to our barm. A nation whose tra- lstlc Ideas have been spreading slowly dltion Is founded on the strongest arn and the growing discontent of the and the sharpest sword could hardly PPle with the ever-Increasing burden be expected to do otherwise. The t""ln hits brought about a state California question is noV when all ' alrs which will test the powers Is said, as grave as many suppose. of tno" at the head of the government. Thut time will solve it to the satlsrac- I have never been much concerned tlon of both nations the more optlm- over the euspected sinister designs of lstlc are confident. Japan toward ourselves and have had Just now Japan Is facing problems less apprehension In that regard thut are far more vital than the some, since my stay in Yokohama. There- what abstract one In California could ,or- I did not Interest myself In in- any rate the foreign settlements will where life is singularly fortunate. The ever be. Japan's affairs on the Asiatic vestlgatlon of the military strength of never be enlarged. intimate character of the relations continent are apt to demand all the Japan, Nevertheless one would have While tne California Legislature was with Japan since the opening of the sagacity of her statesmen for some to be in that country only a short considering the land measures meet- empire to the world, the enormous vol- time to come The government of time to realize that It has a large and Ings of commercial and political bod leu time of her commerce with Japan (In China Is anything but favorable to efficient standing array and a reserve were constantly being held in Toklo one-third of Japan's foreign trade Japan's ambitions in the Orient. When force that would be considered for- to protest against - the treatment. of was with the United States) gives her j wa in Shanghai in September there mldable by the most military of na- Japanese there. The yellow journals In the eyes of these sober-minded, was very strong feeling against the tlons.. were loud in their demand that the very practical men an Importance Japanese. They had not convinced the Soldiers and sailors are constantly enactmentv of the bills be considered beyond that of any other nation. De- people of the new republic that they passing through Yokohama, and on a sufficient cause for the issuance of spite the humiliating treatment of were not concerned In the revolution various trips that I made to places in .an ultimatum. Even some of the con- Japanese In California, the belief In n the south. Also the extensive mil- the Interior I aaw many of them and servative papers were outspoken In the good Intention of the American itary activity of Russia In Mongolia had an opportunity to Judge., casually, their opinions as to the probable out- people at large is becoming widespread, should be disquieting, even to a na- the character of Japan's soldiery, come. Our Army and Navy were con-'Our high Ideals as a nation, our gen- tlon less alert than Japan. By the ! stantly being compared with those or erosity. love or iair piay ana treedom military party this was considered a Japan ana tne results oi nostllltles rom intrigue are an dui acanowieageo. situation necessitating an Increase In were ingeniously forecasted. They are a sturdy, sober, dignified I could never get any of these men tha armv bv two divisions, a Question lot of men; splendid physical specimens. Among thoughtful Japanese, how- to tavor nostuities as a means or set- that, when It came to ba voted on in Orunkenness or rowdyism re not quzl. ever, one could find no such hysteria, tling differences. They usually dis- the Parliament only a year ago, pre- ities one will find In them. They give America to a steadily growing number posed of that feature of the issue by cipltated the downfall of two cabinets the Impression of being thoroughly dls- of Japanese means t,l Dorado or saying rati sucn a course wouia mean and such a popular demonstration as clpllned. They are. far from being as- Utopla, a land of golden opportunity, Japan s ruin. of Immeasurable resources, a region I am not prepared to say, howevec. Toklo had never seen before. Perhaps the most significant prob- sertlve . or bold. a!myst childlike their Ingenuousness. U