The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current, December 21, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Image 60

The Sunday Oregonian., December 21, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 60

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Newspaper Page TextT1TE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLA!,, DECEMBER 21, 1913. DAZZLING CAP AND CORSAGE ROSE PARTS OF STRIKING NEW COSTUME Opera Gown Worn With Latest Diamond Coronet Appears Simple and Girlish, but Is Trimmed With $1000 ' Worth of Real Pearls Sewed on Bands of Tulle. -a : - mh 4yt ftjf;''" - -i 1 r?pr Sir '' -i ! Y WVj v--? - 2 Zarfc . ezjCry- 0XL.Y a debutante, with bright eyes and a glowing complexion, could sUind the test of at glittering cap and huge corsage flower edged with rhliiestones: but the woman in an opera box who does not glitter scarce ly is noticeable at all among the array of dazzling costumes and jewels on very side. The corsage rose is of airy black tulle, each petal and leaf COST OF GOING TO OPERA FORTUNE IF ONE IS TO GET "IN PICTURE From Coiffure to Slipper Buckles Traditional Costnme Scintillates "Little Things"- Worth at Least $1000, and Even Fan to Help Display Jewels Is Big Item. . NEW YORK, Dec. 20. (Special.) The opera, in every center of civ llizatiun. stands for the maxi mum of all that is luxurious, all that is opulent, all that Is cultured, all that is socially exclusive in that center, and in each case represents the highest degree of splendor, brilliancy and per fected art which taste and wealth can attain. There are many famous opera-houses Covent Garden, in London, with its royal box; the home of opera, in Paris, with its wonderful double staircase; Ijt Scala, in Italy, where so many fa mous voices have first been heard; the sumptuous opera-houses in Berlin and St. Petersburg, and the no less notable Metropolitan Opera-House In New York, whose season Is longest and perhaps most brilliant of all. Now. almost any- woman may enjoy in evening of opera for $1 In the Met ropolitan Opera-House, for for 6 francs in the Paris Opera-House: or for a few shillings at Covent Garden. That is, she may secure a reserved seat at this price and may hear every note of the music perfectly, and may even dis cern what is happening on the stage if she has a good glass. But she will not be a factor of the opera. To be that; to "f:t the picture" and form an integral part of a brilliant opera night, she must sit. fittingly attired, among the sumptuously clad and jeweled women who are as important a feature of opera from a fashionable stand point as the stage setting, the expen sive voices, and the perfectly trained orchestra. Kanlpage Is Item of Cost. What docs it cost to attend the opera and to "be in the picture"? Leaving out the reserved seat, which may be a $10 stall In the orchestra or a chair in a fabulously priced box in the exclu sive "diamond horseshoe," which one has been invited to occupy as a guest of the evening, there are it number of things to consider, not the least im portant of which is an equipage which must deliver one at the carriage portico and wait in a long line at the close of the performance. Unless one owns a private limousine or brougham this question of equipage Is a substantial item In the evening' enjoyment. Then there is the minor expense of having the coiffure dressed and ar ranged. No hlt-or-mlss tossing up of the hair or humdrum, everyday ar rangement will answer in the great light that beats npon an opera box. Every detail of the toilette must be flawlessly perfect and utterly formal and only a skilled maid, at $50 a month, or an expert coiffeuse. engaged for the occasion, can do justice to an opera hairdressing. Caws May Cost flS4 mr More. The same formality and perfection that applies to the coiffure applies to the opera costume. Fancy a home made frock In a box in the "diamond horseshoe!" And fancy its wearer's feelings after having through ignor ance of the requirement of the occasion had the temerity to wea: u mere: TKa Ant e-nwn will cost if it fits the picture." at least $150. It may cost inepii-iu.c ; lace used upon It and . . . . i the couturier who turns it out. 'And who turns it out. 'And this is Dy tne i Zly. but Tan important Item after all -this is by the edged with rhinestones. The cap Is of silver tissue sewed with gold beads. Small silk roses around the edge have golden leaves. Frequently a gown of quite simple effect is made noticeable by a band some coiffure ornament, the simple costume throwing- the glittering head dress into striking relief. Though the the gown will be fitted over a corset costing at least $20; for anything less exclusive will be scorned by the cou turier. For an opera wrap of sufficient ele gance to make any sort of an appear ance in the brilliant foyer where so ciety awaits Its limousines and car riages, one may pay anything from $100 to $3000, according to the material and sort of fur used in trimming. Of course, a cloak of unspotted white ermine is the ne plus ultra of wrap magnificance, but for $500 or less one may pick up a really creditable wrap of brocade, veiour or veivei. sumpiu- DAINTY THEATER BAGS FOR CHRISTMAS GIFTS To Give Best Effect, Bag Should Harmonize With Costume When Not in Use They Are Laid With Slippers and Fans. - V it --4,? a." O woman can own too many dainty theater and restaurant bags, ior lo give the best effect, such a bag should harmonize with the costume. and when notin use should be wrapped In tissue and laid away witn suppers. fan and other evening oeionginga. These bags make pretty ' Christmas ! There are two kinds oi simple oui exceedingly attractive bags. The larg er bag in envelope style is of peach blow pink satin with bead embroidery in cut steel and crystal. The other, pouch shaped, is of pale buff taffeta and has a beaded pattern done witn topax colored Deads, tsom Dags nave fin nit chain handles, the envelope iK.w ulna! nir M" i hsr rlosinsr with snap-button which is """" - . ered mould trimmed with fine gUt cord. is attached under large round cov- . ... gown worn with a new diamond coro net appears girlishly simple. It Is trimmed with $1000 worth of real pearls sewed on bands of tulle. The coiffure ornament is of diamonds set In plati num, large pearls swinging from the slender uprights. A goura aigrette forms an effective background and adds to the striking character of the coronet. ously collared with ermine, fox or even sable. Another $1000 may easily be spent on the "little things" which complete the perfection of ail opera toilette. Satin slippers, buttoned across the instep and decorated with rhlnestone buckles will cost, if made-to order, $20, and an ad ditional $20 for the buckles. Gloves r,, ...in, fnp It 1m the fad I just now to remove the gloves and the soft embroidered aim gloves wnicn mjr be so easily tucked into an opera bag are usually selected. The opera bag -ith li fn'.l complement of vanity be- innninr. will cost from $10 to $50. A This gilt cord also edges the envelope flap. The pouch-shaped bag draws up at the top, the gilt chain passing through small metal rings. Gilt chains may be purchased for a dollar or less in any department store and may be adjusted as handles with out difficulty, the ends of the chain being concealed under a slash of the Dug niaieriiii. a. 1 1-n U05 ta imcu 1 . " white satin of good quality, the bead ing being done before the bag is lined or sewed together. Draw the pattern first on white paper and transfer it to the satin, which must be stretched on hoops or frame before the beads are sewed on. This may be done by bast ing to the section of satin for each part of the bag strips of white iawn or muslin, the muslin taking the ctrain of the frame or hoops rather - than the satin itself. - - - jfs ! u I h T i i - 1 i lorgnette opera glass set with small 41omnnHa mav h Vl!iH for S200. One with diamonds in platinum, for $500. A. fan. very necessary to set off to ad vantage the beauty of rings and brace lets, will cost, made or tortoise sneu ura ostrich feathers, about 60; of hand- painted gauze with pearl sticks, about $50. And, of c.ourse, all these more or less expensive "details of costume are In an oDera box only a background for th9 display of Jewels. Opera is, the su preme occasion upon wnicn iun jut may be done to magnificent jewels, and frequently valuable ornaments are removed from safety deposit boxes for wear on an opera night and returned immediately the following morning. - Beside the array of diamonds ex polited on a "socity night" at Metro politan opera, even the Koh-l-Xoor, that famous Indian diamond, said to be a reincarnation of the huge 800-carat Great Mogul" which disappeared in seventeen hundred something, and famed in Indian song and legend, wouia look almost insignificant by compari son. The KOO-l-AOor, moreover, woo simply set, while modern diamonds are enhanced tenfold by superb settings. This historic Koh-l-Noor was frequent ly worn at the opera by the late Queen Victoria, to whom It was presented early in the '50s Dy tne n;ast inaia com pany. The discovery oi tne iosi xvou-i- Noor in the treasury at ignore, unci its various wanderings about -ersia -i tAn -.. i U 1 1 V a tairv tale. The recutting of the diamond in liondon cost 8000, or aDout ,. Trinkets Cost FortoK. Tint thn Koh-i-Noor. fascinating as t i. nd ciirfrpstfd as it Is when opera nlB-ht lewels are under consideration. is a distrression. To return to tne cost of an opera night toilette then: A few of the essential litle trinkets which an appropriately gowned woman will wear inotnria .trinirs of Dearls at $10,000, collars of pearls with diamond clasps at 15000. nearl drop-earrings at auuu, diamond and platinum lace pins at $500, riiio-ro hrarplpta frosted wltn tiny i ,1 , np.ndants with One uiauiu " . T " F big diamond poised against smancr stones for $2000. a chamelon ring for the fan hand, set with diamonds and .,v,tc an that nt the hand moves one sees alternately a blase of fiery white light and a oiaze oi uiuuu . i 9nnA if nnA cannot afford nooria nun mav be contented .i.k . hrso.ciusiter strintr of "scien- tifio" pearls held under diamond ciaupo Kl Will. ti-u).,k oil f,nntpri nn toiretner. will give the uninitiated a fairly good notion cf what It costs to oe in u 1"-'"" cn an opera nijjht. f Newest Velvet Coat Is - Amazing Departure. Eton-Shaped Jacket Extends to the Waistline and Is Trimmed With Fni Flounces Fast Becoming t" Rage Ac a In. V.IEW YORK. Dec. 20. (Special.) Lovely little dressing sacques of chiffon over lace have bands of white fo fur outlining a low V necK ana wide elbow sleeves. The contrast be tween the rich fur and filmy fabric is enchanting, and. despite the thinness of the sacque, tho fur gives a sugges tion of eozv warmth that Is delightful nn a Winter morning even when steam heat warms a room to Summer tem perature. Tho vorv newest velvet coat from Paris has an Eton-shaped jacket ex tending to the waistline ana mmuiw with fur collar and cuffs. Attached to hi, nontiv-flttimr Eton is a gathered skirt section of the velvet which falls over the frock well below the Knees. This amazing departure from the silhouette of the moment was noted the other day at the Ritz; and the coat - -i-nmon who buvs every thing she wears from Paris, and never wears anything more man iw 1 .j oiician nrppn velvet formed the tha fur trimming was of Ttiiaainn fitch. Under the coat was dainty frock of green chiffon over green lansdowne, and buttoned patent leather boots had tops of dull green suede. ..... f..f hMnm!nr the rage. In a Fifth-avenue shop is a Btriking tailleur of black velvet with three skirt flounces, each deeply vanayneu showing a narrow fur trimming around ;.t. if a trifle cum- bersome the effect is astonishingly chic, especially as the short jacket of th tailleur has a collar and cuffs of the same fur. Rust color is a recent shade adored u -c.aot.inn Thin color .exactly lmi tates the brazen reddish brown of rusty old iron, and is very euecuio i - kin.tinn with dark fur. Minaret yel 1 1. anithof. modish shade, and a v--1 . til.,,.- nf minBTPt VfillOW WOOl ratine caused a sensation in the tea room of the Plaza one afternoon last week. Orange furs were worn with this costume, which actually seemed to radiate sunsnine - MENUS F0RJHE WEEK BY LILIAN TINGLE. Tuesday. Vegetable broth. Boilei shoulder of iamb. Caper of nasturtium sauce. Boiled potatoes. Turnip puree. Lettuce and apple salad. Little cinger puddings. Coffee. vFednesday. Lima bean soup. Curried lamb with rice. Jellied vegetable salad. Devonshire junket. Coffee. Thursday. (Family Christmas Dinner.) NO. 1. Osyter or shrimp cocktail. Celery. Olives. Roast beef, horseradish. Browned mashed potatoes. Cauliflower. Cider cup. . Lettuce and grapefruit salad. -Plum pudding in flames. Hard sauce. Crackers and Cheese. FrujU Nuts. Candles. . Coffee. ' NO. 2. Fruit cocktaiL Stuffed celery. Salted nuts. Roast turkey or chicken. Sausage garnish, savory dressing. Sweet potatoes. Brussels sprouts. Spiced peaches. Lettucs salad, pimento-cheese dressing. Savory nut wafers. Individual mince pies, or Plum pudding. Ice cream. Bonbons. Coffee. Friday. Vegetable broth. Baked fish with egg sauce. Baked potato roll." Tomato Jelly salad. ' - Apple or mince pie. Coffee. Satarday. Tomato broth. Shepherd's pie twlth or without oysters). In casserole. Creamed peas. Jellied fruits with cream. Coffee. gnaday. Bouillon. Roast pork. Apple sauce. Brown potatoes. Brown onions. Lettuce salad. Grape juieo sponge. Corfee. Monday. Swiss potato soup. Lutil loaf with spaghetti. Tomato sause. Lettuce salad, pineapple desert. WEARER OF LATEST WRAP REQUIRES FEW JEWELS FOR BRILLIANTARRAY Dehutante "Angel" in New Dancing Frock Appears ta Have Lost One of Her Pinions-Intricately Draped Opera Coat of rEX without a more lavish display 1 . Eof jewels than a handsome string of nenrls at her throat, the wearer of one of the latest wraps will be bril liantly arrayed, for its surface is a dazzling gleam of reflected light, thrown off by the facets of thousands of cut crystal beads. Huge tassels of beads add to the sumptuous character of the wrap and 'its brilliance is relieved by a superb collar of dark fur. A dainty debutante "angel" In the I - - : r ; , Tymjf .4 k v ...fr vVtatns ; . . &.?. A F. . 1 . K,'V fit; I t. 7 I i I - v j y':4eg&m? ill ' v d i 1 i j f J$y f IwFir cy A A 1 1 v I 3 f: Retell i-L - - hiyi, r - Jr DASHEEN OFFERED TO TAKE PLACE OF POTATO Department of Agriculture Issues Announcement of Merits of Newly Introduced Southern-Grown Substitute for Popular Tuber. WASHINGTON, Dec. 20. (Special.) If the housewife can obtain dasheens, she may make from this recently in troduced vegetable a delicious stuffing for her Christmas turkey. Incidentally she may bake them like potatoes and obtain a dish possessing something of the flavor of a boiled chestnut, she may make them Into a pie similar to the sweet potato pie. Dasheens are also good boiled, roasted, fried as frit ters or a salad. Dasheen flour wiL make biscuits, muffins and griddle cakes, possessing a superior flavor. The dasheen, which has been intro duced here recently by the Department of Agriculture, is the root of a plant which resemble that known familiarly as the "elephant's ear," but the roots of the ordinary elephant's ear are not dasheens. The vegetable looks like an undersized cocoanut, although It some times grow3 to considerable size. An exceptional one recently received by the Department weighs 6 pounds. The dasheen originally came from China, as Its name seems to indicate a corruption of the French "de Chine. It has already been grown successfully New Buttoned Cothurn Is Becoming Boot. After-the-Opera Dances Bring On mtty Footwear Carved Loois Heel Is Feature. NEW YORK, Dec 20. (Special.) Even, on opera nights, this Win ter, society dances. One of the most important debutantes of December "came out at a big dance which did not begin until the opera was over; and the debutante's 'mother sat calmly through the opera performance, chat ting with friends before the moment ous event. The prettiest new dancing boot and the craze for dancing has brought out many charming styles in footwear is the buttoned cothurn; something like the laced cothurn . with its crossed straps over instep and ankle but vast ly more becoming to the foot than the ribbon-strapped slipper, which if the ribbons loosen and sag the least bit is likely to have a clumsy look. The button-strap cothurn has six straps of elastic over which is shirred narrow black ribbon and the high back of the slipper supports the ankle In strenu ous dances. Curved Louis heel, thin turned sole and diminutive, crescent-shaped buckle of rhinestones are all dainty features of -this charming -slipper. . . ! f " . i 4 ' V ''iy' ."- jy W Scarlet Velvet ana satin is uurgsousiy ;latet style of 'floating dancing frock .... .a ii -1 .... irtet nn, or ner mmons. annp&rs to have lost one of her pinions for while her left arm Is veiled in clouds of diaphanous tulle, her right arm is bare to the shoulder, where a strap of pearls supports the bodice. A band of white tulle, thickly sewn with pearls, is twisted through the hair ani one vivid splash of co,or is added to the lovely whito costume by a bunch of flame red geraniums at the knee. Opera wraps are of various sorts this in the South and evfntually should be come one of the most Important field crops there, but as yet not enough people have become interested in it to justify dealers in putting it on the market. ' Recipe Is Suggested. However, the housewife may make this filling for her Christmas fowl: Two parts of riced dasheen, one part of bread, one egg, butter, according to quantity of foregoing. Season to taste with salt, pepper, sage and onion. The dasheeens should be boiled and riced in the same way as are potatoes. The Department of Agriculture an nounces that the dasheen cannot be grown successfully where the Summers are not tropical. In fact, the dasheen cannot be grown with commercial suc cess where the frostless season is less than six months, and a longer season is deirable. Contrary to the belief of many people, the United State Is a country of tropical Summers, and the dasheen has been grown successfully as far North as Norfolk, Va. Never theless, there has been no general in terest shown in the vegetable, al though the Department of Agriculture has previously stated that every South ern home would do well to grow at least a small quantity. Dasheens, large or small, may be baked like potatoes, in a quick oven. They , should first be washed and scrubbed to remove the fibrous part of the skin. When practicable to do so ;t is often desirable to scrape the da sheens before baking, as they are then more convenient for eating, and the soft crust which forms when they are properly baked is particularly deli cious. The corms may be cut in half from top to base in order to lessen the time needed for Baking. Service While Hot Advised. The time required is about the same as for potatoes of the same size. They should be served hot. Season with salt and plenty of butter, and pepper if de sired. Gravy instead of butter may be used. It is the opinion of experts of the office of foreign seed and plant intro duction that the well-established dealer who featured the dasheen could undoubtedly build up a paying trace in a short time. It Is simply a matter of furnishing more people opportunity to eat it properly prepared. Children who have become accustomea to u nave shown particular fondness for this vegetable. In general it may be saia that there is nothing better in the line of starchy vegetables. The Office of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction. United States Department of Agriculture, Washington. D. C, will t.3i.. ,,,.nicl, fnfnrmntinn to nommpr- e.iauij' ...-......- cial growers of vegetables throughout the South as to now tne seeas ami roots of the dasheen may be procured for introduction. The Department is glad to furnish those interested its bulletin entitled "Tho Dasheen, a Root Crop for the Southern States." Navel Christmas Party Suggestion Is Given. On Yale Lace, as Center Piece of Table. Is Placed Big Doll Uressed as Jester and Driving Doxen Oth ers Representing Months. A RATHER novel table decoration, which was used with much suc cess at a children's party last season, is described here for the benefit of distracted mothers on the lookout for new ideas along this line. Tii party referred. to occurred dur ing holiday week and 24 little guests were -entertained.. Two long tables. uiwuvs.' Winter. Some are stately and almost classic in line; others are frivolously and intricately diaped. Of the lattsr type is a wrap ft scarlet velvet and satin o' the same shade brocadod in rose pink and crmbined in a draper; that is voluminous oi the shoulder and waistline, yet nlmost sheathlike around the knees. Over a gown of pale jr.nte moire, this wrap is gorgeously effect ive. Buttoned strap slippers ynil long embroidered silk gloves match the deli cate tint of the gewn. each holding 12 children, were set in the dining-room, and the decorations on the two tables were exatcly alike. In the center of each board was set a large Tule log candy-box, filled to the brim with small favors wrapped in red tis sue paper. The favors were distributed after supper, the candy for the occa sion forming part of the table decora tion, in glass dishes set about th groaning board. On the Yule' log sat a big doll, dressed as a jester and carrying a little banner bearing the words, "Lord of Misrule." His hands held the ribbon reins, which drove 12 dolls, who apparently pulled the log and its rideralong. The dolls. were small ones, propped up on small wood en standards, and the 12 were dressed as the 12 months of the year. After supper the children were asked to guess the months which the dolls represented, each doll being taken in turn. The first child guessing cor rectly secured the doll and then re tired from the contest, so that the dolls went all around. If two children guessed correctly at once, the oldec child of the two secured the doll. Not only were attractive decorations furnished for the tables In this way. but much entertainment and substan tial favors were provided for the small guests. POOR LIONS ARE DESERTED Paris Police Give Whimpering Brute Shelter 'With Inhospitable Dogs. PARIS, Dec. 19. (Special.) The un usual spectacle of an abandoned cart ill which was a cargo containing five fully grown . lions w-as seen in the streets of Paris tho other day. The animals belonged to a woman lion-tamer who had brought them to Paris to take part in a circus. At the last moment the contract fell through, and the woman, an Italian, found her self without resources, alone in a strange city with her inconvenient animal companions. The police first took the lions to th 7nn " which was closed and final ly to a dogs' home where they are now installed. Their appearance gave rise to a tumultous and hostile dem onstration on the part of the other inmates of the dog's home. The lions themselves appeared to feel their posi tion acutely, and spent the whole day whimDerine in the corners of tn( 3 cage. Resrardless of the fact that the con gregation is small, there are people who devote all their religion to going to church. - I kn I7ifet Gray Hairs At the first sign of a few gray hairs get a package of Mrs. Nettie Harrison's 4-Day Hair color, easily applied at home. Contains no lead, sulphur or harmful ingredients. Clear as water. Will do the work quickly and perfectly when "dyes" and "restorers" fail. Used by satisried thousands for over 20 years. Sold by lirst-slass druggists S1.00. Q A MPl P ar"l beauty bo-.k hjrwi free on request, address SIRS. NETTIE HARRISON CO., San Fruci.ee Phone Marshall 1580. A. DE BLANCHE Ladies' Tailor, Importer. Designer and Maker of Gowns. GOODWIN COESETS Globe Bids., 4US Washington St.