T1TE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLA!,, DECEMBER 21, 1913.
DAZZLING CAP AND CORSAGE ROSE
PARTS OF STRIKING NEW COSTUME
Opera Gown Worn With Latest Diamond Coronet Appears Simple and Girlish, but Is Trimmed With $1000
' Worth of Real Pearls Sewed on Bands of Tulle.
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0XL.Y a debutante, with bright eyes
and a glowing complexion, could
sUind the test of at glittering cap
and huge corsage flower edged with
rhliiestones: but the woman in an
opera box who does not glitter scarce
ly is noticeable at all among the array
of dazzling costumes and jewels on
very side. The corsage rose is of
airy black tulle, each petal and leaf
COST OF GOING TO OPERA FORTUNE
IF ONE IS TO GET "IN PICTURE
From Coiffure to Slipper Buckles Traditional Costnme Scintillates "Little Things"- Worth at Least $1000,
and Even Fan to Help Display Jewels Is Big Item. .
NEW YORK, Dec. 20. (Special.)
The opera, in every center of civ
llizatiun. stands for the maxi
mum of all that is luxurious, all that
is opulent, all that Is cultured, all that
is socially exclusive in that center, and
in each case represents the highest
degree of splendor, brilliancy and per
fected art which taste and wealth can
attain.
There are many famous opera-houses
Covent Garden, in London, with its
royal box; the home of opera, in Paris,
with its wonderful double staircase;
Ijt Scala, in Italy, where so many fa
mous voices have first been heard; the
sumptuous opera-houses in Berlin and
St. Petersburg, and the no less notable
Metropolitan Opera-House In New
York, whose season Is longest and
perhaps most brilliant of all.
Now. almost any- woman may enjoy
in evening of opera for $1 In the Met
ropolitan Opera-House, for for 6 francs
in the Paris Opera-House: or for a
few shillings at Covent Garden. That
is, she may secure a reserved seat at
this price and may hear every note of
the music perfectly, and may even dis
cern what is happening on the stage
if she has a good glass. But she will
not be a factor of the opera. To be
that; to "f:t the picture" and form an
integral part of a brilliant opera night,
she must sit. fittingly attired, among
the sumptuously clad and jeweled
women who are as important a feature
of opera from a fashionable stand
point as the stage setting, the expen
sive voices, and the perfectly trained
orchestra.
Kanlpage Is Item of Cost.
What docs it cost to attend the opera
and to "be in the picture"? Leaving
out the reserved seat, which may be a
$10 stall In the orchestra or a chair in
a fabulously priced box in the exclu
sive "diamond horseshoe," which one
has been invited to occupy as a guest
of the evening, there are it number of
things to consider, not the least im
portant of which is an equipage which
must deliver one at the carriage portico
and wait in a long line at the close of
the performance. Unless one owns a
private limousine or brougham this
question of equipage Is a substantial
item In the evening' enjoyment.
Then there is the minor expense of
having the coiffure dressed and ar
ranged. No hlt-or-mlss tossing up of
the hair or humdrum, everyday ar
rangement will answer in the great
light that beats npon an opera box.
Every detail of the toilette must be
flawlessly perfect and utterly formal
and only a skilled maid, at $50 a month,
or an expert coiffeuse. engaged for the
occasion, can do justice to an opera
hairdressing.
Caws May Cost flS4 mr More.
The same formality and perfection
that applies to the coiffure applies to
the opera costume. Fancy a home
made frock In a box in the "diamond
horseshoe!" And fancy its wearer's
feelings after having through ignor
ance of the requirement of the occasion
had the temerity to wea: u mere:
TKa Ant e-nwn will cost if it
fits
the picture." at least $150. It may cost
inepii-iu.c ;
lace used upon It and
. . . . i
the couturier
who turns it out. 'And
who turns it out. 'And this is Dy tne i
Zly. but Tan important Item after all
-this is by the
edged with rhinestones. The cap Is
of silver tissue sewed with gold beads.
Small silk roses around the edge have
golden leaves.
Frequently a gown of quite simple
effect is made noticeable by a band
some coiffure ornament, the simple
costume throwing- the glittering head
dress into striking relief. Though the
the gown will be fitted over a corset
costing at least $20; for anything less
exclusive will be scorned by the cou
turier. For an opera wrap of sufficient ele
gance to make any sort of an appear
ance in the brilliant foyer where so
ciety awaits Its limousines and car
riages, one may pay anything from
$100 to $3000, according to the material
and sort of fur used in trimming. Of
course, a cloak of unspotted white
ermine is the ne plus ultra of wrap
magnificance, but for $500 or less one
may pick up a really creditable wrap
of brocade, veiour or veivei. sumpiu-
DAINTY THEATER BAGS
FOR CHRISTMAS GIFTS
To Give Best Effect, Bag Should Harmonize With Costume When Not
in Use They Are Laid With Slippers and Fans. -
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O woman can own too many dainty
theater and restaurant bags, ior
lo give the best effect, such a bag
should harmonize with the costume.
and when notin use should be wrapped
In tissue and laid away witn suppers.
fan and other evening oeionginga.
These bags make
pretty ' Christmas !
There are two kinds oi simple oui
exceedingly attractive bags. The larg
er bag in envelope style is of peach
blow pink satin with bead embroidery
in cut steel and crystal. The other,
pouch shaped, is of pale buff taffeta
and has a beaded pattern done witn
topax colored Deads, tsom Dags nave
fin nit chain handles, the
envelope
iK.w ulna! nir M" i
hsr rlosinsr with
snap-button which
is """" - .
ered mould trimmed with fine gUt cord.
is attached under
large round cov-
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gown worn with a new diamond coro
net appears girlishly simple. It Is
trimmed with $1000 worth of real pearls
sewed on bands of tulle. The coiffure
ornament is of diamonds set In plati
num, large pearls swinging from the
slender uprights. A goura aigrette
forms an effective background and
adds to the striking character of the
coronet.
ously collared with ermine, fox or even
sable.
Another $1000 may easily be spent on
the "little things" which complete the
perfection of ail opera toilette. Satin
slippers, buttoned across the instep and
decorated with rhlnestone buckles will
cost, if made-to order, $20, and an ad
ditional $20 for the buckles. Gloves
r,, ...in, fnp It 1m the fad
I just now to remove the gloves and the
soft embroidered aim gloves wnicn mjr
be so easily tucked into an opera bag
are usually selected. The opera bag
-ith li fn'.l complement of vanity be-
innninr. will cost from $10 to $50. A
This gilt cord also edges the envelope
flap. The pouch-shaped bag draws up
at the top, the gilt chain passing
through small metal rings.
Gilt chains may be purchased for a
dollar or less in any department store
and may be adjusted as handles with
out difficulty, the ends of the chain
being concealed under a slash of the
Dug niaieriiii. a. 1 1-n U05 ta imcu 1 . "
white satin of good quality, the bead
ing being done before the bag is lined
or sewed together. Draw the pattern
first on white paper and transfer it to
the satin, which must be stretched on
hoops or frame before the beads are
sewed on. This may be done by bast
ing to the section of satin for each part
of the bag strips of white iawn or
muslin, the muslin taking the ctrain of
the frame or hoops rather - than the
satin itself. - - -
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lorgnette opera glass set with small
41omnnHa mav h Vl!iH for S200. One
with diamonds in platinum, for $500.
A. fan. very necessary to set off to ad
vantage the beauty of rings and brace
lets, will cost, made or tortoise sneu ura
ostrich feathers, about 60; of hand-
painted gauze with pearl sticks, about
$50.
And, of c.ourse, all these more or less
expensive "details of costume are In
an oDera box only a background for th9
display of Jewels. Opera is, the su
preme occasion upon wnicn iun jut
may be done to magnificent jewels,
and frequently valuable ornaments are
removed from safety deposit boxes for
wear on an opera night and returned
immediately the following morning. -
Beside the array of diamonds ex
polited on a "socity night" at Metro
politan opera, even the Koh-l-Xoor,
that famous Indian diamond, said to be
a reincarnation of the huge 800-carat
Great Mogul" which disappeared in
seventeen hundred something, and
famed in Indian song and legend, wouia
look almost insignificant by compari
son. The KOO-l-AOor, moreover, woo
simply set, while modern diamonds are
enhanced tenfold by superb settings.
This historic Koh-l-Noor was frequent
ly worn at the opera by the late Queen
Victoria, to whom It was presented
early in the '50s Dy tne n;ast inaia com
pany. The discovery oi tne iosi xvou-i-
Noor in the treasury at ignore, unci
its various wanderings about -ersia
-i tAn -.. i U 1 1 V a tairv tale. The
recutting of the diamond in liondon
cost 8000, or aDout ,.
Trinkets Cost FortoK.
Tint thn Koh-i-Noor. fascinating as
t i. nd ciirfrpstfd as it Is when opera
nlB-ht lewels are under consideration.
is a distrression. To return to tne cost
of an opera night toilette then: A few
of the essential litle trinkets which an
appropriately gowned woman will wear
inotnria .trinirs of Dearls at $10,000,
collars of pearls with diamond clasps
at 15000. nearl drop-earrings at auuu,
diamond and platinum lace pins at $500,
riiio-ro hrarplpta frosted wltn tiny
i ,1 , np.ndants with One
uiauiu " . T " F
big diamond poised against smancr
stones for $2000. a chamelon ring for
the fan hand, set with diamonds and
.,v,tc an that nt the hand moves one
sees alternately a blase of fiery white
light and a oiaze oi uiuuu
. i 9nnA if nnA cannot afford
nooria nun mav be contented
.i.k . hrso.ciusiter strintr of "scien-
tifio" pearls held under diamond ciaupo
Kl Will.
ti-u).,k oil f,nntpri nn toiretner. will
give the uninitiated a fairly good notion
cf what It costs to oe in u 1"-'""
cn an opera nijjht.
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Newest Velvet Coat Is
- Amazing Departure.
Eton-Shaped Jacket Extends to the
Waistline and Is Trimmed With
Fni Flounces Fast Becoming t"
Rage Ac a In.
V.IEW YORK. Dec. 20. (Special.)
Lovely little dressing sacques of
chiffon over lace have bands of white
fo fur outlining a low V necK ana
wide elbow sleeves. The contrast be
tween the rich fur and filmy fabric is
enchanting, and. despite the thinness
of the sacque, tho fur gives a sugges
tion of eozv warmth that Is delightful
nn a Winter morning even when steam
heat warms a room to Summer tem
perature.
Tho vorv newest velvet coat from
Paris has an Eton-shaped jacket ex
tending to the waistline ana mmuiw
with fur collar and cuffs. Attached to
hi, nontiv-flttimr Eton is a gathered
skirt section of the velvet which falls
over the frock well below the Knees.
This amazing departure from the
silhouette of the moment was noted
the other day at the Ritz; and the coat
- -i-nmon who buvs every
thing she wears from Paris, and never
wears anything more man iw
1 .j oiician nrppn velvet formed the
tha fur trimming was of
Ttiiaainn fitch. Under the coat was
dainty frock of green chiffon over
green lansdowne, and buttoned patent
leather boots had tops of dull green
suede.
..... f..f hMnm!nr the rage.
In a Fifth-avenue shop is a Btriking
tailleur of black velvet with three skirt
flounces, each deeply vanayneu
showing a narrow fur trimming around
;.t. if a trifle cum-
bersome the effect is astonishingly
chic, especially as the short jacket of
th tailleur has a collar and cuffs of
the same fur.
Rust color is a recent shade adored
u -c.aot.inn Thin color .exactly lmi
tates the brazen reddish brown of rusty
old iron, and is very euecuio i -
kin.tinn with dark fur. Minaret yel
1 1. anithof. modish shade, and a
v--1 . til.,,.- nf minBTPt VfillOW WOOl
ratine caused a sensation in the tea
room of the Plaza one afternoon last
week. Orange furs were worn with
this costume, which actually seemed to
radiate sunsnine -
MENUS F0RJHE WEEK
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
Tuesday.
Vegetable broth.
Boilei shoulder of iamb.
Caper of nasturtium sauce.
Boiled potatoes. Turnip puree.
Lettuce and apple salad.
Little cinger puddings.
Coffee.
vFednesday.
Lima bean soup.
Curried lamb with rice.
Jellied vegetable salad.
Devonshire junket.
Coffee.
Thursday.
(Family Christmas Dinner.)
NO. 1.
Osyter or shrimp cocktail.
Celery. Olives.
Roast beef, horseradish.
Browned mashed potatoes. Cauliflower.
Cider cup. .
Lettuce and grapefruit salad. -Plum
pudding in flames.
Hard sauce.
Crackers and Cheese.
FrujU Nuts. Candles.
. Coffee.
' NO. 2.
Fruit cocktaiL
Stuffed celery. Salted nuts.
Roast turkey or chicken.
Sausage garnish, savory dressing.
Sweet potatoes. Brussels sprouts.
Spiced peaches.
Lettucs salad, pimento-cheese dressing.
Savory nut wafers.
Individual mince pies, or
Plum pudding. Ice cream.
Bonbons. Coffee.
Friday.
Vegetable broth.
Baked fish with egg sauce.
Baked potato roll."
Tomato Jelly salad.
' - Apple or mince pie.
Coffee.
Satarday.
Tomato broth.
Shepherd's pie twlth or without oysters).
In casserole.
Creamed peas.
Jellied fruits with cream.
Coffee.
gnaday.
Bouillon.
Roast pork. Apple sauce.
Brown potatoes. Brown onions.
Lettuce salad.
Grape juieo sponge.
Corfee.
Monday.
Swiss potato soup.
Lutil loaf with spaghetti.
Tomato sause. Lettuce salad,
pineapple desert.
WEARER OF LATEST WRAP REQUIRES
FEW JEWELS FOR BRILLIANTARRAY
Dehutante "Angel" in New Dancing Frock Appears ta Have Lost One of Her Pinions-Intricately Draped
Opera Coat of
rEX without a more lavish display
1 .
Eof jewels than a handsome string
of nenrls at her throat, the wearer
of one of the latest wraps will be bril
liantly arrayed, for its surface is a
dazzling gleam of reflected light,
thrown off by the facets of thousands
of cut crystal beads. Huge tassels of
beads add to the sumptuous character
of the wrap and 'its brilliance is relieved
by a superb collar of dark fur.
A dainty debutante "angel" In the
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DASHEEN OFFERED TO
TAKE PLACE OF POTATO
Department of Agriculture Issues Announcement of Merits of Newly
Introduced Southern-Grown Substitute for Popular Tuber.
WASHINGTON, Dec. 20. (Special.)
If the housewife can obtain dasheens,
she may make from this recently in
troduced vegetable a delicious stuffing
for her Christmas turkey. Incidentally
she may bake them like potatoes and
obtain a dish possessing something of
the flavor of a boiled chestnut, she
may make them Into a pie similar to
the sweet potato pie. Dasheens are
also good boiled, roasted, fried as frit
ters or a salad. Dasheen flour wiL
make biscuits, muffins and griddle
cakes, possessing a superior flavor.
The dasheen, which has been intro
duced here recently by the Department
of Agriculture, is the root of a plant
which resemble that known familiarly
as the "elephant's ear," but the roots
of the ordinary elephant's ear are not
dasheens. The vegetable looks like an
undersized cocoanut, although It some
times grow3 to considerable size. An
exceptional one recently received by
the Department weighs 6 pounds.
The dasheen originally came from
China, as Its name seems to indicate a
corruption of the French "de Chine.
It has already been grown successfully
New Buttoned Cothurn Is
Becoming Boot.
After-the-Opera Dances Bring On
mtty Footwear Carved Loois
Heel Is Feature.
NEW YORK, Dec 20. (Special.)
Even, on opera nights, this Win
ter, society dances. One of the most
important debutantes of December
"came out at a big dance which did
not begin until the opera was over;
and the debutante's 'mother sat calmly
through the opera performance, chat
ting with friends before the moment
ous event.
The prettiest new dancing boot and
the craze for dancing has brought out
many charming styles in footwear is
the buttoned cothurn; something like
the laced cothurn . with its crossed
straps over instep and ankle but vast
ly more becoming to the foot than the
ribbon-strapped slipper, which if the
ribbons loosen and sag the least bit
is likely to have a clumsy look. The
button-strap cothurn has six straps of
elastic over which is shirred narrow
black ribbon and the high back of the
slipper supports the ankle In strenu
ous dances.
Curved Louis heel, thin turned sole
and diminutive, crescent-shaped buckle
of rhinestones are all dainty features
of -this charming -slipper. . .
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Scarlet Velvet ana satin is uurgsousiy
;latet style of 'floating dancing frock
.... .a ii -1 .... irtet nn, or ner mmons.
annp&rs to have lost one of her pinions
for while her left arm Is veiled in
clouds of diaphanous tulle, her right
arm is bare to the shoulder, where a
strap of pearls supports the bodice. A
band of white tulle, thickly sewn with
pearls, is twisted through the hair ani
one vivid splash of co,or is added to
the lovely whito costume by a bunch
of flame red geraniums at the knee.
Opera wraps are of various sorts this
in the South and evfntually should be
come one of the most Important field
crops there, but as yet not enough
people have become interested in it to
justify dealers in putting it on the
market. '
Recipe Is Suggested.
However, the housewife may make
this filling for her Christmas fowl:
Two parts of riced dasheen, one part
of bread, one egg, butter, according to
quantity of foregoing. Season to taste
with salt, pepper, sage and onion. The
dasheeens should be boiled and riced in
the same way as are potatoes.
The Department of Agriculture an
nounces that the dasheen cannot be
grown successfully where the Summers
are not tropical. In fact, the dasheen
cannot be grown with commercial suc
cess where the frostless season is less
than six months, and a longer season
is deirable. Contrary to the belief of
many people, the United State Is a
country of tropical Summers, and the
dasheen has been grown successfully
as far North as Norfolk, Va. Never
theless, there has been no general in
terest shown in the vegetable, al
though the Department of Agriculture
has previously stated that every South
ern home would do well to grow at
least a small quantity.
Dasheens, large or small, may be
baked like potatoes, in a quick oven.
They , should first be washed and
scrubbed to remove the fibrous part of
the skin. When practicable to do so ;t
is often desirable to scrape the da
sheens before baking, as they are then
more convenient for eating, and the
soft crust which forms when they are
properly baked is particularly deli
cious. The corms may be cut in half
from top to base in order to lessen the
time needed for Baking.
Service While Hot Advised.
The time required is about the same
as for potatoes of the same size. They
should be served hot. Season with salt
and plenty of butter, and pepper if de
sired. Gravy instead of butter may be
used.
It is the opinion of experts of the
office of foreign seed and plant intro
duction that the well-established
dealer who featured the dasheen could
undoubtedly build up a paying trace in
a short time. It Is simply a matter of
furnishing more people opportunity to
eat it properly prepared. Children who
have become accustomea to u nave
shown particular fondness for this
vegetable. In general it may be saia
that there is nothing better in the line
of starchy vegetables.
The Office of Foreign Seed and Plant
Introduction. United States Department
of Agriculture, Washington. D. C, will
t.3i.. ,,,.nicl, fnfnrmntinn to nommpr-
e.iauij' ...-......-
cial growers of vegetables throughout
the South as to now tne seeas ami
roots of the dasheen may be procured
for introduction. The Department is
glad to furnish those interested its
bulletin entitled "Tho Dasheen, a Root
Crop for the Southern States."
Navel Christmas Party
Suggestion Is Given.
On Yale Lace, as Center Piece of
Table. Is Placed Big Doll Uressed
as Jester and Driving Doxen Oth
ers Representing Months.
A RATHER novel table decoration,
which was used with much suc
cess at a children's party last season,
is described here for the benefit of
distracted mothers on the lookout for
new ideas along this line.
Tii party referred. to occurred dur
ing holiday week and 24 little guests
were -entertained.. Two long tables.
uiwuvs.'
Winter. Some are stately and almost
classic in line; others are frivolously
and intricately diaped. Of the lattsr
type is a wrap ft scarlet velvet and
satin o' the same shade brocadod in
rose pink and crmbined in a draper;
that is voluminous oi the shoulder and
waistline, yet nlmost sheathlike around
the knees. Over a gown of pale jr.nte
moire, this wrap is gorgeously effect
ive. Buttoned strap slippers ynil long
embroidered silk gloves match the deli
cate tint of the gewn.
each holding 12 children, were set in
the dining-room, and the decorations on
the two tables were exatcly alike. In the
center of each board was set a large
Tule log candy-box, filled to the brim
with small favors wrapped in red tis
sue paper. The favors were distributed
after supper, the candy for the occa
sion forming part of the table decora
tion, in glass dishes set about th
groaning board. On the Yule' log sat
a big doll, dressed as a jester and
carrying a little banner bearing the
words, "Lord of Misrule." His hands
held the ribbon reins, which drove 12
dolls, who apparently pulled the log
and its rideralong. The dolls. were
small ones, propped up on small wood
en standards, and the 12 were dressed
as the 12 months of the year.
After supper the children were asked
to guess the months which the dolls
represented, each doll being taken in
turn. The first child guessing cor
rectly secured the doll and then re
tired from the contest, so that the
dolls went all around. If two children
guessed correctly at once, the oldec
child of the two secured the doll.
Not only were attractive decorations
furnished for the tables In this way.
but much entertainment and substan
tial favors were provided for the small
guests.
POOR LIONS ARE DESERTED
Paris Police Give Whimpering Brute
Shelter 'With Inhospitable Dogs.
PARIS, Dec. 19. (Special.) The un
usual spectacle of an abandoned cart
ill which was a cargo containing five
fully grown . lions w-as seen in the
streets of Paris tho other day.
The animals belonged to a woman
lion-tamer who had brought them to
Paris to take part in a circus. At the
last moment the contract fell through,
and the woman, an Italian, found her
self without resources, alone in a
strange city with her inconvenient
animal companions.
The police first took the lions to
th 7nn " which was closed and final
ly to a dogs' home where they are
now installed. Their appearance gave
rise to a tumultous and hostile dem
onstration on the part of the other
inmates of the dog's home. The lions
themselves appeared to feel their posi
tion acutely, and spent the whole day
whimDerine in the corners of tn(
3
cage.
Resrardless of the fact that the con
gregation is small, there are people
who devote all their religion to going
to church. -
I kn I7ifet
Gray Hairs
At the first sign of
a few gray hairs get a
package of Mrs. Nettie
Harrison's 4-Day Hair
color, easily applied
at home. Contains no lead, sulphur or
harmful ingredients. Clear as water.
Will do the work quickly and perfectly
when "dyes" and "restorers" fail. Used
by satisried thousands for over 20 years.
Sold by lirst-slass druggists S1.00.
Q A MPl P ar"l beauty bo-.k
hjrwi free on request, address
SIRS. NETTIE HARRISON CO., San Fruci.ee
Phone Marshall 1580.
A. DE BLANCHE
Ladies' Tailor, Importer. Designer
and Maker of Gowns.
GOODWIN COESETS
Globe Bids., 4US Washington St.