The Sunday Oregonian., July 13, 1913, SECTION FIVE, Page 7, Image 61

THE SUNDAY ORBGONIA1SV PORTLAND, JULY 13, 1913
7
Health and Beauty Helps
BY MRS. MAE MARTXN
photographs give hints of latest styles in bathing suits I
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NETW TORK CITY. July 12. (Spe
cial.) The latest styles in tath
Isk suit are shown In the accompanying-
photographs and descriptions:
Nos. 1 and 4 American and Persian
designers agree that white makes an
attractive tone for bathing garments.
The two models shown give one an
idea of the bathing garments very
much In vogue at American and Per
sian seaside resorts. The American
costume (No. 4) Is of white silk with
sandals to match and headgear of the
same color. The Persian garment (No.
1). designed by Helle, is of white taf
feta trimmed with broad silk braid of
the same color, and cap to match
No. 2 There is a certain dignity
about the new beach suit with a high
Medici collar of exquisite hand em
broidery and lace and draped skirt that
is made attractive against a back
ground of blue skirt and sandy beach
This particular model Is developed In
striped satin in rich Roman colorings.
No. 8 The latest bathing and beach
costumes show novel touches of high
colors. Bulgarian and Russian, which
add a distinctive note to costumes of
dark colors. The bathing wrap shown
to the right of the photograph, match
ing the suit in material and color, is
a new idea In America, broug-ht from
the fashionable watering places of
Prance. j
No. 5 White bathing suits are Dame
Fashion's latest dictates. They are
fetchingly made of soft taffetas and
satin, with trimmings of lace. Flesh
colored hosiery and white sandals are
considered extremely smart with the
white suit, as shown in photograph
No. 6 The vogue for black and white
expresses itself in bathing garments in
INFORMAL OUTING GARB CONTRASTS
RADICALLY WITH AFTERNOON DRESS
Smart Gowns and Stunning Wraps Worn by Fashionable Folk at Summer Colonies, Country and Yacht ClubsZ
Dainty Footwear on Piazza Vies With Heelless Shoes of Court and Deck.
l EW TORK. July 12. (Special.)
11 The country club is the social
center f every Summer commu
nity, and at Bummer colonies near the
shore, the yacht club fills the same
need. Racing events at the latter, and
tennis, golf and polo matches at the
former, call out fashionable folk on
Saturday and Sunday afternoons, and
these athletic affairs are followed by
tea on the wide, awning-shaded veran
das of the club.
Smart gowns of a summery nature
are worn by the women and stunning
wraps cover the gowns of those who
arrive in motor cars. In striking con
trast to these conventional and effec
tive costumes are the athletic togs of
women who take part in tennis and
golf matches. Short skirts, turned-in
blouse collars, rolled up sleeves and
worsted sweaters tied carelessly around
the waist by the sleeves to be out of
the way and yet handy for use are
quite "en regie" side by side with ex
Z , A I 1 . .
IX J
' -,y
f
-I
: k
all white suits with chin tnurhns nf
black, and in all black suits with
unique white and. black trimminga.
The contrast of black and white suits
is shown in the photograph.
No- 7 Two beautiful beach costumes
which will no doubt find favor with
both sexes are pictured in No. 7. The
quisite lingerie creations of lace and
embroidery at afternoon tea on the club
veranda.
Not all the members of country clubs
and yacht clubs are millionaires, and
not all the charming frocks one sees
come from the hands of Paris coutu
riers. There are dozens of little places
on the side streets off Fifth avenue
where copies of Paris models may be
picked up at prices below those charged
by big dressmakers who make a busi
ness of Importing gowns and of copy
ing Paris creations for customers who
are indifferent to considerations of
price. There are also places not on
the select streets off Fifth avenue and
known only to a canny few where
chic creations are to be had for r.ext-to-nothing.
Such shops procure smart
models in various ways. Sometimes
a gown, worn once or twice by a
wealthy woman" and passed on to her
maw. nnas its way to such an em
porium. Sometimes th fetching mod
els
have been worn by mannequins. atiSxirlruE mnlfi.. Daxls
1 h -
SI
costume of the model on the right Is
of charmeuse, white ground, polkadots
and trimmlnsrs of dark blue- Kina nv
stockings rolled over, make a striking
effect on a background of white silk
siocKings. The costume of the seated
model is of white with brocaded collar
and cuffs, with cap to match.
an exhibition of gowns for the benefit
of buyers from Western concerns. One
copy, only, of each model goes to a
particular city so that the "Paris
gown" worn by the Denver or Spokane
or San Francisco woman Is really ex
clusive as far as her locality is con
cerned. The original model gowns, di
rect copies In each case of authorita
tive Paris creations of the season, are
then disposed' of at a very little pries.
Sometimes a really lovely little frock
of 6ilk and lace may be picked up
at these places for 20 or a trifle
over. ,
. Yachtlns; Coatnaw- Parisian.
One such frock, worn by a young
woman on the veranda of a fashion
able Sound yacht club last Saturday
and recognized by the scribe, who had
seen the creation only a week before
at an exhibition of model gowns was
eminently and authoritatively Parisian,
and was a copy of one of Premet's early
I
was the material of the skirt, and a
jaunty little bolero coat having square
fronts on which were set buttonholes
and red ball buttons. This bolero coat
fell Just over a sash of black satin
which encircled the waist and was
knotted at one side, falling in two
straight, weighted ends to the knee. In
front, the bolero opened over a waist
coat of cream machine embroidered
batiste, and this, in turn, opened over
a crossed vest of fine white net.
The navy blue lansdowne skirt was
tucked from knee to ankle in four
groups of pintucks which pulled it in
closely about the feet, and just at the
front was a six-inch slash, edged with
buttonholes and red ball buttons. Un
der the slash was a fan pleating of red
silk. Very high-heeled boots of patent
leather with buttoned tops of dull calf
seemed to set off this nattv little blue
and red costume to perfection.
Navy Blue Silk Favorite.
One notes that among the caste of
Vere de Vere, in other words, among
the elite of country clubdom, navy blue
is a particular favorite. Many stun
ning afternoon gowns of navy char
meuse. eponge and lansdowne are noted
and there is a plain blue navy foulard
without figures of any kind that seems
especially cool and pleasing on Sum
mer days. A costume of this kind was
worn by a young matron recently re
turned from Paris at the Piping Rock
clubhouse during the polo games. The
frock was of navy blue foulard, un
figured, and had a clinging skirt and
an equally clinging; tunic scalloped and
piped at the lower edge about at the
knee. Under 'the piped scallops was a
pleated ruffle of navy blue net and
similar net ruffles fell from the elbow
sleeves. A soft sash of the blue silk
was tied flatly in front and crossed
vest of pleated white net filled In the
front of the bodice and met the high
knot of the sash. A saucer-shaped medium-sized
hat of navy blue straw was
worn under a black lace veil, one bit
of black court-plaster peeping through
saucily from the wearer's cheek. But
toned boots of patent leather with
French heels had tops of fawn-colored
suede, and the long-wristed suede
gloves matched these boot-tops pre
cisely, Llnorerte Frocks (or Iadie' Day.
Reception days at the country club
and the yacht club bring out very dis
tinguished costumes of the lingerie
order, accompanied by picture hats
loaded with roses, and parasols se
lected to match cashes. Such frocks,
this year, are almost entirely of fine
lace and machine embroidery, with
knowing touches In the way of sashes
and Httle tulle bows at the neck and
girdle. ' Airy black tulle bows with
sheer white frocks are extremely
smart, and with this white and black
combination Is carried a parasol of de
cided hue, like mustard yellow, Nell
rose or saxe blue. Buttoned white ox
ferda are much fancied with white
frocks of an airy character, though but
toned Doota or DucKBKln are liked best
with yachting costumes of a tailored
nature.
Dainty wraps are a feature of all!
country club affairs this season. The
I homely and faithful linen duster mo
tor coat of a few years ago has been
replaced by extravagantly pretty crea
tions of silk and lansdowne, with ec
centric cut and trimming of shirring
over cords. These coats cover the
frock to the knee in the motor car and
are graceful and smart on the club
veranda when the sea breeze Is chill
in the late afternoon.
Ton Smart but Comfortable.
Side by side with these Paris-built
frocks and wraps are tennis, golf and
sailing togs built for service, not style.
Style aplenty they have, however, be
cause of the good cut and the know
ing way they are worn. Tennis de
votees this year wear thin, cool shirts
of white silk or batiste, open at 'the
throat and plentifully plntucked across
the front so that they give an effect
of roomy looseness, blowing about as
the wearer moves over the court. The
white shirt is accompanied by a nar
row, well-cut skirt of pique, linen or
serge, white stockings and white can
vas or buckskin heelless shoes. After
the game, a sweater or white Macki
naw, or a striped blazer coat is donned
for tea on the veranda.
Tuesday.
Ripe figs.
Broiled mat balls. Spanish sauce.
Spaghetti.
Lettuce salad.
Cherry pie.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Chilled cantaloupe.
Limb in casserole. New potatoes.
Creamed young onions. Nut sauce.
Lettuce and cottage cheese balls.
Raspberry shortcake.
Coflee.
Thursday.
Fruit soup.
Vegetable curry rice.
Tomato jelly salad.
Blanc mange with cream.
Coffee.
Friday.
Vegetable bouillon.
Baked halibut. Potato balls.
Sliced tomatoes.
Rice cream with berries.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Chilled cantaloupe.
Bpieed lamb tongues. Vinaigrette.
Potatoes. Spinach.
Lettuce salad.
Peach plum pudding.
Coffee. -
Sunday.
Chilled bouillon.
Chicken in casserole with rice
Green peas. Peach pickles.
Pimento and pineapple salad.
Ice cream. Sponge cake.
Coffee.
Monday.
Fruit cocktail.
Vegetable loaf with stewed tomatoes.
German noodles.
Lettuce salad.
Raspberries and cream.
Coffee.
The price of porterhouse has soared
so high that a hardworking man no
longer feels he is brother to the ox.
Menus for the "Week
Dolly: I know canthrox shampoos
will make your head feel good and re
store the former gloss and fluff to
your hair and the color will then be
rich and even. Dissolve a teaspoonful
canthrox In a cup hot water and rub
briskly as you pour a little at a time
on the Jiead. You will be surprised at
the wealth of rich, white lather can
throx creates and how quickly It dis
solves every particle of dust, dandruff
and excess oil. Rinsing leaves the hair
and scalp wonderfully sweet and clean,
while the hair dries quickly and loses
its dull, harsh appearance. You will
find that the hair looks better after
each shampoo.
Blanche: Your blood troubles are not
necessarily serious and I am sure you
will find quick relief in kardene. Make
a tonic of this by pouring 1 ounce
kardene into 4 pint alcohol (do not
use whisky), then add cupful sugar
and hot water to make a quart. Take
a tablespoon! ul three times a day and
your biliousness will disappear and
those severe headaches will also vanish.
I have often recommended this kardene
tonic for impure blood, loss of appetite
and strength, and to give to a sallow,
pimply skin a healthful color and clear
ness. Ruth: You should use a plain spur
max lotion in place of pore-clogging
powder. This lotion is very beneficial
to any skin because it tones the deli
cate tissues and permits -the pores to
breathe properly. To prepare, dissolve
4 ounces spurmax In pint witch
hazel or hot water then add 3 tea
spoonfuls glycerine. This lotion will
not blow off nor spot like powder, nor
can it be detected when on. as It really
seems part of the skin. The regular
use of the spurmax lotion corrects the
shiny, sallow, lifeless or aged condition
of the skin and gives to the complexion
that youthfulnes so much admired. Its
use will rid the skin of tan and freckles.
Ethel: No, dear; nothing will change
the color of your eyes, but the aching
will stop if you put 2 or 3 drons of a
crystos tonic in each eye a few times a
aay ana vou win oe surprised at how
bright and sparkling they will be.
This tonic is made by dissolving 1
ounce crystos in a pint cold water, and
it can do no possible harm. This crys
tos tonic quickly relieves the smart and
ache of tired muscles and is excellent
for granulated lids or to remove for
eign particles.
Louise: some physicians say over
fatness is caused by an unnatural
amount of nutrition absorbed by cer
tain tissues. The only safe way by
FLESH-TINTED LINGERIE
NOW FEMININE FRENZY
Problem Now to Find Flimsy Material, Not Transparent, for Petticoats
Reversible Idea Seems to "Take" Poirefs Idea Most Oriental.
NEW YORK, July 12. Special.)
Flesh-tinted linings in yokes
have become such a frenzy with
feminine folk that the craze has spread
even to lingerie. The latest night
gown Is of thin batiste, with a lace
yoke lined with flesh-tinted net. This
yoke reaches to below the arms, and.
Instead of being attached to the gown
under a ribbon beading, a garland of
tiny, pale pink silk roses covers the
seam. The short lace sleeves are also
looped- up with pink silk roses.
m m
White net petticoats, with ruffles of
pleated net are about the flimsiest of
this season's flimsy belongings. Such
petticoats are designed for wear un
der clinging gowns of thin silk and
lansdowne, though fashion has not
yet gone so far as to commend their
use with transparent costumes. All
petticoats, however, are as thin and
soft as possible without being actual
ly transparent unless the wearer
stands in a strong sunlight. Then
sometimes the effect Is rather start
ling.. The petticoat now is exquisitely
fitted, and is as narrow as possible,
having a flounce of fine machine era
broidery at the foot. Unless intended
for wear with a sheer frock, the petti
coat does not reach below the top of
tne buttoned boot.
e
By this time, one has become ac
customed to the idea of reversible
shirt bosoms and reversible cuffs
though it is not an idea that appeals
to the person of fastidious tastes. But
what shall one say to reversible
frocks for children? Such frocks are
actually being offered in the shops
now, and the salesperson will tell you
that they are being bought. The no
tion of turning a dirty frock inside
out, so that the accumulated grime
would come next the fair skin of little
neck and arms and body, is intolerable
to most mothers; but that somebody
is taken with this unspeakable meth
od of economizing, is undeniable.
m m m
Some young women have taken to
upholstering the beaches this Sum
mer by affecting charming tailored
costumes of ordinary cretonne, such
as is used for window hangings, bed
spreads and Summer chair-coverings.
A costume of this sort was noted at
Brighton Beach the other day, and bi
zarre as the idea seems on paper, the
little suit was really charming. There
was a. narrow skirt of flowered tap
estry cretonne in greens on white, and
a smart little coatee of white eponge
belted with green suede. Buttoned
patent leather oxfords and green silk
stockings and a green straw hat with
a white veil completed the outfit. An
other pretty girl, on the beach at As
bury Park last week, wore a tailleur
of rose-flowered cretonne, with a wide
cash of rose-colored silk and. a bolero
coat of eponge in the same color. Her
buttoned boots wert, of white buck
skin, and a black parasol echoed the
note of a smart black hat and veil.
m .
Ostrich feather buttons are still an
other caprice of the season. These
buttons are really big fluffy pompons.
which do not button to anything, but
add much in effectiveness to the cos
tume. A white gown worn at the
Belmont races recently was trimmed
with these ostrich pompon buttons.
and with ostrich ruching, the ruchlng
edging a white chiffon tunic. The
gown was of white lansdowne, the
chiffon tunic falling just below the
kneesj- A velvet straw hat was matched
by a violet silk parasol.
Paul Poiret has evolved another
sensation. It is the odalisque negli
gee. From a back view there is noth
ing startling about the garment. One
sees a drapery of wnite cmrron ciotn,
weighted with crystal bead fringe
which falls from the shoulders to the
ankles, beneath a gay little Jacket of
lace whlcn reaches just oeiow tne
armholes. But seen from a front
view, the negligee becomes strikingly
Oriental. Tho little lace jacket sep
arates over a chiffon chemisette and
a wide, draped sash of white satin,
held by two red roses. The chiffon
and bead drapery also separates in
cutaway effect to Bhow loose Oriental
trousers of soft, white silk, caught
around the ankle under bands of
swansdowne. An Oriental turban of
chiffon and crystal beads matches the
negligee.
Cleaning: Auto Veils.
(Chicago Record-Herald.
Cleaning adds so much to the origi
nal cost of any article of apparel that
it is often well to pay a little more in
the beginning to get something that
will stand soap and water.
A washable chiffon veil, therefore, is
a real economy. Of course, any sort
of chiffon veil can be satisfactorily
cleaned In gasoline, but it is rather un
pleasant to have anything cleaned in
this way come in close contact with the
skin of the face.
When a washable chiffon veil Is
which this can be overcome is with
the air of parnotis. You can prepare
your own treatment by dissolving 4
ounces parnotis In m pints hot water.
The dose is a tablespoonful before each
meal. This treatment rarely fails and
is devoid of danger or inconvenience.
When you have taken off enough fat
the lines of the figure will be greatly
improved and your general health will
be much better.
Mary B. : Those ugly hairs on your
face will quickly vanish after an ap
plication of a delatone paste, made v
mixing delatone with water. This
paste should be left on the hairy sur
face 2 or 3 minutes, then removed and
the skin washed. The delatone treat
ment is simple, effective and quite
harmless, but be sure you get delatone.
B. O.: Your eye-lashes will grow
beautifully long, silken and curly If a
little pyrbxin is applied ' nightly at
lash-roots with thumb and forefinger.
Rubbing pyroxin on eyebrows will in
duce them to come in thick and glossy.
Be cautious and don't get any pyroxin
where no hair is wanted.
Lottie: That faded and "stringy"
appearance of your hair will soon dis
appear if you shampoo occasionally
with canthrox (see answer to "Dolly"),
then rub some quinzoin tonic into the
scalp and hair-roots two or three times
each week. The quinzoin tonic cor
rects all unnatural conditions, such as
dandruff, excessive oiliness or extreme
dryness, and to faded, brittle, unman
ageable hair will give a rich, natural
color and soft fluff, so that doing it up
will be a delight.
Girlie: I am always glad to repeat
a recipe. The wrinkle-remover formula
which your friend found absolute in
its action is easily and cheaply made at
home by mixing 1 ounce of almozoin
with 14 pint cold water and adding
teaspoonfuls glycerine. Stir and let
stand for one day. To remove or pre
vent wrinkles, apply this vegetable
cream-jelly thickly and leave over
night, then wash off and with more of
the cream massage thoroughly. I have
found nothing to equal almozoin Jelly
cream to remove wrinkles and keep
them away. It contains no fatty sub
stances which might promote growth
of hair. You will also notice by its
use not only your wrinkles disappear
ing but the large pores of the entire
face getting much smaller and the skin
very soft and velvety.
Read Mrs. Martyn's book. "Beauty."
5. Adv.
soiled fold it neatly and tack the folds
securely with basting thread. Then
wash the veil carefully in soapy water
and rinse it in salt water to set the
color. Press the folded veil between a
couple of heavy bath towels to get the
water out and do not wring it at all.
When as much water has been
pressed out as It is possible to get out
cut the bastings and pull them out.
Lay one edge of the veil straight on
the ironing board and iron it dry with
a moderately hot iron. Then iron each
of the other sides dry and then iron
the middle of the veil until it, too. Is
dry. By ironing the edges first the
veil can be Ironed without stretching
or pulling out of shape.
Lay the veil flat on a bed for an
hour or two after it is Ironed. If it is
Ironed in this way it will keep its
shape and will not wrinkle easily.
When Buying Bacon.
Exchange.
When buying bacon choose th,at with
a thin rind and with fat of a pinkish
white. '
To Look and Feel
Bright in Hot Weather
(From The Woman Beautiful.)
This Is the season when she who
would have a rose-leaf complexion,
lily-white neck and hands, should turn
her thoughts , to mercolized wax. the
firm friend of the Summer girl. Noth
ing so effectually overcomes the soiling
effects of sun, wind, dust and dirt. The
wax literally absorbs the scorched, dis
colored, withered or coarsened cuticle,
bringing forth a brand new skin, clear,
soft and girlishly beautiful. It also
unclogs the pores, removing black
heads and increasing the skin s breath
ing capacity. An ounce of mercolized
wax. obtainable at any drug store, ap.
ftlied nightly like cold cream, and
washed off mornings, will gradually
improve the worst complexion.
When depressed by the heat and you
want to freshen up for the evening,
bathe the face in a lotion made by dis
solving an ounce of powdered saxolit
in a half pint witch hazel. You'll find
this more refreshing than an hour's
res,t-, 11 is fine for smoothing out
wrinkles, even the deeper ones. Adv.
HOW CAMILLE DE VERLAC
BECAME FAMOUS FOR
THE BEAUTY OF HER
HANDS AND ARMS
Free Prescription That Can Be Pre
pared at Home.
Camille de Verlac. famous for the beauty
of her hands and arms, in a recent inter
view says: "If every woman knew about
tne prescription that has caused all this
talk about my hands and arms they could
make their hands and arms just as beau
tiful as mine. I am glad to have the oppor
ii"1 .tli. Blv my "cipo free to the world.
It will help every woman to improve her
personal appearance." when I asked her
if she would allow me to publish the pro
scription, she quickly answered: "Certain
ly, only too glad to have you do it." Turn
ing to a desk, she wrote it on a slip of
paper and handed It to me. Here it 1st
'Go to any drug store, get a one-ouncs
bottle of Kulux compound. Pour the en
tire contents into a two-ounce bottle, add
quarter ounce witch hazel, then fill with
water. Apply night and morning. This
prescription irlves the skin a velvety soft
ness and. obliterates all defects such as
freckles, tan, sun spots, roughness and rud
diness. A single application works a mar
velous transformation." It can be applied
to the neck and shoulders with equally
gratifying results. It is absolutely harm
less and will positively not stimulate or
produce growth of hair. It is deliciously
cool and soothing and is not affected by
perspiration. It will not rub off. Adv
FRECKLE-FACE
Sun and Wind Bring: Out Xr8rly Spots,
How to Remove Easily.
Here's a chance. Miss Freckle-face,
to try a remedy for freckles with the
guarantee of a reliable dealer that it
will not cost you a penny unless it
removes the freckles; while If it does
give you a. clear complexion the ex
pense is trifling.
Simply get an ounce of othine
double strength from Woodard, Clarke
& Co. and a few applications should
show you how easy it is to rid your
self of the homely freckles and get a
beautiful complexion. Rarely is more
than one ounce needed for the worst
case.
Be sure to ask the drutrs-lst fnr tv
double strength othine as this Is the
prescription soia under guarantee of
money back 1 It lalls to remove
freckles. Adv.