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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 13, 1913)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND,. APRIL 13, 1913. sary br not. If yon have "perfect taste" all will be well: but It cannot be supplied from outside. Tou should certainly have some chairs for those BLACK CREPE DE CHINE USED OVER SKIRT MADE OF CHIFFON IS PROPER FOR MOURNING COSTUME who prefer to sit, but no doubt many of your guests will prefer to stand. Portland Kindly g:ve recipe for Boston brown bread ice-cream. MRS. E. W. Bodice, Silk Crochet Bartons, and Boots of Dull Calf With Cloth Tops, Combine to Complete Costnme Which Is Held by Modistes to Be Both Proper and Host Fetching. Cut one-half pound Boston brown bread into thin pieces; dry slowly until 6 crisp, grind and sift the crumbs. To three pints vanilla ice cream (made by any preferred method) add one-half of these crumbs, when the cream is Just frozen to a mush. Add also one or two spoonfuls of curacoa, or maraschino, or sherry, as may be preferred, and fin ish freexinp;. Cse the rest of the crumbs, either plain, or soaked - in sherry or the cordial chosen, to sprin kle over the cream when served. The cream may be packed Into a mould, or brick, and served in slices, or from the freezer direct, or the cream may be packed in small paper cases, sprinkled with the reserved crumbs and re-packed in a tin box burled in ice and salt, until quite firm. Each form of service has its special advantages and disad vantages. Portland Kindly rive in The Oreg-onian -a-ssssssssssssssK-a-V I --Cy t - , . j f i - ' - ' r j f -1 JU-y v r h - : ! i 1 -j , ' 5 . r J I . i ' SJ - "-' i 1 i " - - 1 Tiietlps"oiitvvefirtfte glows 39 hi 153 I! i" '- " i l ' . " ' 1 IA .- T,.t 7i--- , if A vfTsr 1 " Ut-r : . , . - ir , - f 4 - 4 , - - I M xr. 4 4 NEW YORK. April II. (Special.) Mourning, worn without a hat. Is apt to be somewhat trying-, and tha Indoor frocks should be as soft and sjracefol ss possible. Black crepe de chine Is most artistically draped In the Arab manner over a skirt of side pleated, black chiffon, in one charm Ins; frock for mourning; wear. The bodice Is of black crepe de china and tucked chiffon with black silk crochet buttons. Buttoned boots of dull calf with cloth, tops accompany the gown correctly. There Is a youthful charm and co quetry about a popular afternoon cos tume, despite Its mourning- character, and much of this coquetry, strangely enough. Is due to the elaborate trim mings ot crepe. Th trock 01 black i terial much liked for mourning' cos-1 though without the richness of crepe. black crepe, black net yoke- and un dersleeve being edged with bands of white crepe which afford a pleasant relief from the dead black of the cos tume. The parasol, with a frilled crepe edge, adds to the smartness of the tout ensemble. Some women object to the use of larudowne. a silk and worsted ma-1 crepe en mourning habiHments, and tumes, has a deep collar and cuffs of I mourning is never quite as distin guished as with it. there are many at tractive and perfectly correct mater ials that take its place. One well cut suit of black serge has trimming bands of dull black grosgrain silk, and the hat is also of this silk, with a black wing at the back. Buttoned boots of black suede and a black par asol complete the costume. NEW CODE OF CONVENTIONS LURKS IN PERIOD PRESCRIBED BY MOURNING After First Six Months, Correct Mode Is Anything but Garb of Gloom, Subtly Combining Coquetry With Dignity and Distinction of Carriage in Manner Vainly Sought in Colorful Raiment. T1IK woman who finds herself for the first time facing a prescribed period of mourning garb realizes urually with some astonishment what a new realm of conventions, forms and proprieties she has entered; each one of which must be religiously ad hrred to Mmler peril ot betraying iKnorsnce of the conventional require ments of social etiquette and custom. To the woman who loves dress and has an antagonistic feeling toward all-black garb It may be said that after the first six months, mourning is anything but a garb of gloom. There Is even much coquetry about It. and It is almost In variably becoming to Its wearer, lend ing a dignity and distinction ot bear lng that Is often lacking In mora col orful raiment. Behind every conven tion lies a principle, and the wearer of mourning is protected by her garb from many wounds which might be in- flirted through thoughtlessness were It not for her outward symbol of sorrow. The deepest mourning Is worn, of coarse, by the whlow and two years Is the proper period for her duration of mourning dress. For a parent or child, mourning is worn from elgh teen months to two years; for a sister or brother, from a year to eighteen months and six months Is a suffi cleat length of time for a grand parent, aunt, uncle, sister-in-law or brother-in-law. The once approved half-mourning which Included grays and ven purple shades, has been abandoned and Is now considered bad form; but after eighteen months, ex cept In the case of the widow, black ard m-hlte combinations are permis sible. t'resw Csaarttiah Rather Thaa Gloomy. There are many women who are averse to the use of crepe, consider ing It an excessive and exaggerated badge of woe; but there is really no more beautiful and graceful trimming and even a moderate use of crepe makes a simple black gown elegant and distinguished; and used lavishly crepe often makes the somber black appear less somber, strange as this may seem. In fact, the more youth ful and beautiful a widow the more loaded down she often Is with crepe and the very extravagance of her mourning garb enhances In direct ratio the effect of her youth and charm. Crepe is undoubtedly extravagant, for It Is a most perishable material as well as an expensive one, and must receive the greatest care, for shabby crei'e Is unspeakably awful. It may. however, be freshened occasionally and used again tor trimming purposes. Tie t'srrret Mswralaa; Materials. Nothing that gleams end glitters may be donned by the wearer of mourning. Kven Jet is barred on Ires It be tha dull Jet which is donned during the second year of the mourn ing period. atln. velvet, ostrich plumes, even patent leather are un der the ban and the buttoned boots should be of dull calf, with tops of ciotli. if this style of boot Is pre ferred. In the house, suede slippers or buttoned boots may be worn, and Colonial pumps of dull calf may ac company Hummer gowns; unless all- white mourning la donned. In which) case the buttoned boot or pump should be of white buckskin. There are various correct mourn ing fabrics, among them dull fin ished serge and cheviot. Henrietta cloth, cashmere, chiffon serge, nuns veiling, mohair and pernio fabric a weave of mohair with worsted which Is favored for ligbt-welght tailored costumes for warm weather wear. Among the silk stuffs permitted are crepe de chine, dull finished faille and ottoman grenadine, voile and lans downe, a mixture of silk and wool Black nrt and chiffon are allowable and are generously used by the dress makers to soften the lines of other wise severe black garb. Kor the first six months of mourn ing very little trimming beside crepe Is used, and all costumes are exceed ingly simple even severely so In case of the widow. After six months, trimmings are lavishly added and they take the form of pleatings of crepe, silk and net; pipings of crepe or dull silk: hemstitched frills of chiffon; yokes of net or tucked mousseline. covered silk or gun-metal buttons folds and bands of crepe; sashes of crepe; or silk, and the smart dull black wooden beads which are most ef fee tive when well used. White crepe col lars and jabots are worn during tne second year of mourning, with indoor gowns. It is most Important that good ma terials be purchased, for poor black speedily becomes rusty and nothing Is so forlorn as shabby mourning. A few clothes and those the best, is i excellent rule for the wearer of COLORED BAMBOO USED FOR PORCH FURNITURE Modern Verandas, Equipped as Luxuriously as Drawing-Booms, May Have Easily Portable Tables and Chairs Made From Oriental Wood. - A -?1 I .4! 1 1 ,1s FAMIIONAULE FrR-MTVRE FOR PORCH AND INTERIOR. N' EW YORK, April 12. (Special. ) The old-fiflloned porch rocker, with sack that always knocked one's bar1 forward over one's nose, and Vckers diabolically arranged so. that the seat tipped forward Instead of back ward when one sat In lu has been re placed br all sorts of comfortable and artistic porch chairs, swinging seats and settees. The modern porch is as uxurioua aa a drawing-room. 6oft rugs are spread on the floor; plants and cut flowers stand about la pottery Jars and Jugs: low tables are conveniently placed for the accommodation of maga- sines, needlework, smoking receptacles and cooling beverages, and the chairs themselves, pleasing. un-uniform In hape and sise. invito reposa most temptingly. The newest Idea, In living-room porch furniture for the Summer homo Is made from bamboo. This set. including a low, easily lifted table, and two grace fully shaped chairs, is made of light, natural bamboo, and pala blue wicker. Greenu. rose-colored or buff wicker may also be obtained, and the dainty table and chairs are as suitable for a Summer drawing-room, or even a gneat room, as for the porch. The English, who seldom have ver andas on their houses, serve afternoon tea on the lawn, under tha spreading trees; snd the lawn chairs, with an hour-glass base which will not cut the turf like the ordinary chair legs, is much in vogue. Many American host esses use these four-glass chairs on the porch, sine they are comfortable, good-looking and easily lifted about mourning, and after all, when all one's frocks are black, a great variety of costume does not count for so much as true distinction and elegance in one or two simple models. There should be, for the period of Spring mourning, one well and smartly cut tailored coat and skirt of serge or permo mixture of mohair and worsted; two graceful trot teur gowns, one perhapB of poplin or or mohair with dull silk trimmings and the other of crepe de chine trimmed with chiffon, net and crepe; and two dinner or house gowns which may be of crepe de chine, of chiffon, of voile, of thin black India silk or of the silk and wool lawnsdowne with appropriate trimmings. These gowns may have el bow sleeves and slightly V'd necks, and If they are long, even possessing small trains, they will be particularly- grace ful and charming. Some women kep to white mourning in the house; and in summer time this style of mourning is perfectly correct for out-of-door wear. But white mourning must conform to the re quirements as truly as black mourn ing. Dead white fabrics and trimmings only, can be used, and there must be no touch of black anywhere; everything must be dead white gown, collar, belt, boots gloves, hat and veil. It is hard ly necessary to add that lace is entirely out of place In mourning costumes, though petticoats of machine embroid ery in simple, unostentatious patterns are worn with black costumes. All diamond or precious stone-set jewelry must be laid aside during the mourning period: and the gleam of rings give an unquestionable sugges tion of chic and are perfectly correct. and white pearls may always be worn evpn in deepest mournln?. j-our recipe for "tutti frutti" preserve. Also the decree to cook baby cream canay. Thanking you, MRS. N. C. K. 'My' recipe for tutti frutti varies from year to year, according to my taste, fancy and opportunities, so it would not help you much. My favorite mixture Is made of 24 fruits. Including some specially imported Chinese things, which you probably could not obtai In general, however, in making tutti frutti, the beginning is a bottle of rum or brandy in the bottom of a large stone Jar with a cover. To this you add 1 pound of fruit, say strawberries. and 1 pound sugar. Next I pound rasp berries and 1 pound sugar: then 1 pound stoned cherries and 1 pound sugar, and so on. as the fruits come in. No cook lng is necessary, but more alcohol. rum. or brandy may have to be added after a while, as the quantity of fruit and sugar accumulates. Only perfectly sound, dry. ripe fruit should be used. Large fruits should be stoned, cored, or skinned, as may be necessary, ana cut up' in suitable pieces. The large pro portion of sugar and the alcohol com bine to prevent fermentation. As the alcohol gradually evaporates, besides beine- diluted with fruit juice. It may become necessary to renew it; but I find that 1 bint alcohol is enough for 6 or pounds of fruit and 6 or 6 pounds of sugar, and that 'when tne preserve i ready for use (in the Winter) most of the alcohol has disappeared, so that there need be no objection to the "pre serve, even where the regular use of alcohol is not approved. The thickness of the preserve will vary with the Julcl ness of the chosen fruits; but if it seems very thin, a part of the liquid may be noured off and bottled for fruit punch, sauces, or gelatine oesserts. -ineappi should be scalded In syrup, alter cut ting up, before being added, as It tena to ferment- currants ana grapes, too, are safer treated In this way. If fer mentation does. set in, however, do not worrv. but slmrilv scald the preserve in a kettle, return to the cleaned ana scalded jar. and go on with your col lection of fruits and sugar, some peo pie prefer "cooked tutti frutti. This may h imuifl witnout aiconoi dv cuumu each fruit, as it comes in season, for fhr minutes in a syrup maoe witn an equal weight of sugar and some juice from the Jar. This makes a thicker nreserve. I sometimes aaa some preservwi iuaB lonvxa or flower-netal syrups to in fruit mixture, varying the flavors and proportions of fruits to suit my lancy of the moment. I tninK trom tnese suggestions you will have no cnucuiiy in making a tuiti-irum io uit you. it nni write nirain. ana I win giaaiy write you a formal recipe lor a tutu frutti. which, however, will not be par tlr-nlarlv "mv" tutti iruttl. T nm not aulte sure mat i quite uu dersrand the kind of candy you mean by -Kohv .ream." Is It a wnixe -puiiea xanHv which softens on Keeping.' n mm to describe it. x win u-y iu tell you the best degree for boiling It. Answers to Correspondence BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND Would you please Inform a through The Oreg-onian if water-g-lasa can be used the second time in preserving eggs, or does it have to be made fresh ev ery year.' I get so many good things out of your columns in The Oresronlan. Thanking yon in advance. MRS. C. F. T, AM so sorry that there has been de lay in answering your letter, which (being enclosed with your recipes) only came to light when the committee began to Judge the cakes. I think It would not be wise to use the waterglass a second time, although I cannot say that I have tried it twice over. It3 cost, however, is small com pared to that of the eggs that might be lost, so I would not take the risk, but would use a new solution each year. Portland 'Will you kindly submit to me a dainty menu for an afternoon tea where 2o0 will be entertained and where plates and forks can be minimized? Is it imperative that napkins be furnished or can one banish them and feel that all is In per fect taste. Also can chairs be omitted, as my dining-room would be rather crowded. A.VA1UL8 HOUSEWIFE. It Is quits impossible for me to sub mit menus or make private replies of any kind. Tou cannot go far wrong If you serve choice well-made tea, with variety of small attractive little cakes and tiny, very well made sand wiches, preferably rolled or cut in "fin ger shapes. Complicated service Is out of place at afternoon tea. since the supposition is that your guests have lunched, and will dine later. Something light and refreshing, such as tea, punch, or ices would always be suitable, with only the very daintiest and easiest to eat of cakes and sandwiches. The question of plates and napkins must, of course, depend upon whether your chosen refreshments make them neces- Popular-Priced Waists of Cotton Weaves Varied Demand Is Met In Plain and Fancy Crepes or Combination of White Crepe and Colored Voile. HalEW YORK, April S. (Special. )- I 1 The extension of the demand for novelties to popular-priced merchandise is responsible for the appearance of cot ton waists developed in contrasting ma terials. The great variety of weaves in inex Denslve cotton fabrics makes it possi ble for waist manufacturers to give in dividuality to their merchandise by the use of different fabrics. This gives the newness of effect for which buyers are looking, and at the same time does not increase the cost. Some of the materials-used in this wav are the plain and fancy crepes. The body of the waist and the sleeves are made of the plain material, wnue the vestee, collar, cuffs and buttons are of the fancy weave. faome or these novelty crepes have embroidered pat terns in Oriental colors, while others show the irregular stripes or corded effects. Another combination Is of wnue crepe and colored voile, the voile supplying trimming effects forming different sec tions of the waist. With plain voile is used sheer French organdie or marquisette In new open patterns. These fancy cottons are also nsed on the higher-priced waists of wash crepe de chine and Japanese silk. Oriental embroidered batiste is also combined with these wash silks In the better merchandise, and usually ap pears in the fancy collars, the double pleated frills, . the lower section of the sleeves and tne buttons. Transformed Dressing Jacket. ' Exchange. An entirely transformed garment is the dressing jacket. It used to be a very utilitarian and generally ugly jacket, made with a deep frill of lace at the neck and the same trimming on the elbow sleeves. But the modern dressing jacket is a daintily beautiful article, and serviceable as well, for it is invariably made of some pretty washing material. A very charming dressing jacket is the "Dresden china" model. It is made of white wash silk, patterned with delicate wreaths of pale pink roses, and is trimmed with frills of cream-spotted net and pale blue satin ribbon. The jacket is edged with a deep frill of the net, and Is draped up just before the frill with the satin ribbon. A long draped and pointed collar of pale blue silk is edged with a shorter frill of cream net, and the elbow sleeves are fin ished with net frills tied up with satin ribbon. irl will give more "real" service and satisfaction than the "ordinary kind" and "cost no more" than the glove represented as "just as good." -KAYSER". Silk Gloves are not the outcome of "claims" or "arguments," but solely the result of a lifetime of striving for the attain ment of an ideal, the achievement of which has not been hampered by restrictions of cost or time, t The guarantee you receive with gloves, sold without the maker's1 name, rarely ever goes back any, further than the clerk who sold the goods. Every pair of "KAYSER" Silk Gloves con tains a guarantee ticket both the glove and the ticket bear the name "KAYSER." Look for it it is assurance of quality, fit and value and is there for your protection. Short Silk Gloves, 50c, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50 Long Silk Gloves, 75c, $1, $1.25, $1.50, $2 Julius Kayser & Co., Makers ( ' A-3 Neta York 4 boil the cabbage, or six. Sufficient for f'.ve Menu for "Week Tuesday. Brown aoup. Lentil loaf -with stewed tomatoes. Potato border. Pineapple and cream cheese salad. Apple pie. Coffee. Wednesday. Tomato soup. Boiled shoulder of lamb, nut stuffing. Brown potatoes. Spring greens. Apple salad. Blanc mange. Coffee. Thursday. Potato soup. Minced lamb with macaroni. Hungarian sauce. Vegetable salad. Brown betty, cream. Coffee. Friday. Leek and barley soup. Halibut roll, potato cone. Hollandaise sauce. Lettuce salad, French dressing. Date pudding. . Coffee. baturaay. Lima bean soup. Breaded chops, rlced potato. Minced carrots, vinaigrette. Lettuce salad. Rhubarb tart. Coffee. Sunday. Spring soup. "Rrafmf-fi toncue. brown nntatoes. Sultana sauce. Spinach. Asparagus salad. (Dried) apricot souffle with custard. Coffee. Monday. Vegetable puree. Spanish rice with tomatoes. Cabbage, nut and pimento salad. Devonshire junket. Coffee. LINEN SHOWERS PLEASE What to Do Wlien You Call on the Bride-Elect. Washington (D. C.) Herald. Nothing; will please the bride more than a linen showerv Ask the sruests to bring; a grift of linen wrapped In hlte paper ana tied with green rib bon and with the Sift inclose an orig inal verse. Suspend a large white par asol from the chandelier by green an5 white ribbons and place the packages in it. When the bride-elect pulls the ribbons the parcels fall upon her In a shower and she reads the verses aloud as she opens the packages. If the gifts are small and not many In number they may be tied to the bows with ribbons of irregular length. Then the bride elect is led under the parasol and re quested to stand there while she makes speech. This effect is very pretty and amusing to everyone but the bride- elect. During? the afternoon the guests may hem tea towels and cheesecloth dust cloths for the bride, or a dozen napkins, yie guest hemming one of them first and best receiving a prize. For refreshments serve chicken sal ad in fancy cases on a wreath of cross, with heart-shaped sandwiches or sand wiches rolled and tied with green rib bons; also serve olives or tiny pickles. Or vanilla ice cream In heart form, angel food cake and chocolate with whipped cream. The apron shower is amusing. The Invited guests are requested to bring an apron large kitchen apron, fancy white apron, dainty chafingdish. sew ing, or embroidery apron; in fact, any kind will do just so it's an apron. The hostess and bride-elect should receive In the drawing; room; all the guests enter the room and begin putting their aprons on the bride-elect. The result is she is soon literally covered with all kinds of aprons. For refreshments serve fruit salad sandwiches and chocolate. A recipe party is a useful one. Ar range a floral bell of smllax and roses, using barrel hoops and strong wire for the frame. Place the gifts in tissue paper across the bottom. Fasten a ribbon inside the bell, which when pulled will tear the paper open and let the packages fall. With each gift is the favorite and best recipe of the donor and a quotation or original verse. The recipes are written on rice paper and afterward arranged in booklet form. Good Reasoning. ("Harper's Bazar.) A weather-beaten woman, dressed in new and stylish clothing, was marching up the street one Sunday morning when down came a sudden shower. The wo man had no umbrella, but quick as a flash she caught up her dress skirt and threw it over her hat. You'll get your ankles all wet. Maria," said her husband, who was coming along in the rear. Oh, never mind, the ankles, called out the woman, as she hurried along. I ve had them the last 60 years and I only got the hat yesterday." Grocer's Idea for Grinder. Exchange. If you have ever watched the grocer grind coffee in the mill, you have per haps noticed that he drops the paper bag In which he. afterward puts the coffee over the top of the machine to prevent the coffee dust from flying ail over the place. Do the same thing when grinding bread crumbs through the food chop per, and see how easy it is to keep the crumbs off the floor. Absorbs Skin, Chases Wrinkles Young Again Greens a la Creme. Exchange. Wash and boil two young cabbages in the usual way; press them between two plates to drain the water from them. Roll a lump of butter the size of an egg in some flour; stir It over the fire with a wooden spoon till it is quite smooth, but not in the least col ored. Add gradually a quarter of a pint of cream, a teaspoon of salt, one half teaspoon of pepper and one-eighth of a nutmeg grated. Simmer 10 min utes and serve poured over the cab bages. Time, from 15 to 20 minutes to The shock at beholding myself in the glass after nine long weeks abed, nearly caused a relapse," writes Emily Colson in Home Queen. "The faded face, with its lines of Illness and worry, seemed 30 years older. Now, I thought, I could not attend my chum's wedding, II days off, to which I had looked hopefully forward. "She herself came to my rescue. She procured an ounce of ordinary mercol ized wax at the drugstore, which she bade me spread on like cold cream, washing it off next morning. Applied nightly, this apparently absorbed the withered skin, so gently I experienced no discomfort. Upon the wedding morn the pallid complexion had entirely given way to one of youthful color and loveliness. "And there wasn't a wrinkle. This due to a wash lotion made by dissolv ing an ounce of powdered saxolite in Make Your Own Hair Stain This Home Made Mixture Darkens Gray Hair and Makes It Soft and Glossy. To a half pint of water add: Bay Rum 1 oz. Barbo Compound a small box Glycerine 4 oz. These are all simple ingredients that you can buy from any druggist at very little cost, and mix them yourself. Apply to the scalp once a day for two weeks, then once every other week until all the mixture is used. A half pint should be enough to rid the head of dandruff and kill the dandruff germs. It stops the hair from falling out, relieves Itching and scalp dis eases. Although it is not a dye, it acts upon the hair roots and will darken streaked, faded gray hair in ten or fifteen days. It promotes the growth of the hair and makes harsh hair soft and glossy. HOME FORMULA FOR DANDRUFF FALLING HAIR & ITCHING SCALP Readers will find this simple pre scription excellent for quickly killing dandruff and stopping falling balr and Itching scalp. Bay Rum, 6 ozs., Lavona de Composed 2 ozs., Menthol Crystals, 14 dr. Mix well and allow to stand overnight. Apply morning and night with the finger tips or a stiff brush, rubbing briskly into the scalp. Keep the scalp clean. Shampoo once a week. a half pint witch hazel. The daily face These ingredients may be bought at bath had dispersed every line. Adv. small cost from almost any drug store.