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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Oct. 27, 1912)
THE SUNDAY O RE G O XI AN, PORTLAND, OCTOBER 27, . 1912. MORE BEWILDERING THAN EVER ARE CHARMS OF NEW WINTER WRAPS Elegance in Grace, Beauty and Material of Garments Never More Marked Really Creditable Imitations Allow Happy Medium in Fashionable ) j 1 1 THERE is always a peculiar seduct iveness about a fine wrap, and now this charm Is more bewllder- lr.gr than ever, for every point of the elegant garment strives for grace and beauty. As for textures, you can Im agine how grand they are when I tell you that some of the more exquisite coatings for evening use are marked as high as $40 a yard, while such prices as $25 and ISO are as common as if every woman had her pockets lined with gold. However, the fabrics have a lifetime quality, for some are in sub stantial silks so interwoven with gold and silver threads as to suggest the - absolute defiance of time. - For a long period, at least, bits of such materials will endure, and when t iey are looked at in the years to come everybody will marvel at the magnifl- cence of our time. For, of couise, . there must be a" revulsion of feel ing at . last, and then we will come down to the most countrified sim plicities. The present grandeurs are ascribed to the needs of the manufac turers, who, seeing no way of get ting women to use more material, have happened upon the lucrative notion of making textures more splendid. Velvet Fabric Win. One of the loveliest fabrics for botb evening and fine day coats is cut vel vet, which Is now shown with a gauze background, the texture falling as scft ly as veiling, and yet looking warm and permitting rich fur edges. This material is made up into many wraps of the mantle species, with shoulders shirred, sleeves wide and the back hob bled into a band in some manner. - Panler effects are common enough with the daintier materials, such as the cut velvet, embossed crepe, em broidered veiling or chiffon, velvet, or lace, and here and there one sees a puffed coat so nearly like a dress it seems its twin sister. 'One such seen recently was of cut velvet in a. dusky violet, the top part bulging with pa nlers, which were finished with a plain tight footband. suggesting the skirt. Upon all of the fine materials tinsel lace, figured tulle and very narrow fur edges are used, the trimming se lected, of course, to suit the material. When buttons appear on a fine gar ment they are immense in size and al ways conspicuous in style. So far as coats go we women certainly will not hide our fascinations under the bushel. Happy Medium Is Struck. Happily for the medium world those women who must follow the fashions to some extent and yet cannot afford to spend too much money there are some quite plain evening coats whose lines are adapted to home making and fairly modest fabrics. These are in circular shape, with a wide hood or a collar finish of some sort, and a very good fab ric of the style is a wool velour, this imitating a figured velvet and both warm and rich in effect. There are, besides, numerous brocaded silks of quite inexpensive nature, which can be made to look richer with Interlining, quite suited to the circular models, and for these cheaper and lighter fabrics an edge of marabout can be used in stead of fur, which is so much more expensive. Figure A presents a wrap of this sort, and although shown in an evening ma terial and color the model could be used for the simplest day cloak of a substantial sort. The wrap is in two pieces with a seam down the middle of the back, and it Is of a blue and black brocade, with an edge of black fur and a brooch fastening of Jet and blue enamel. The garment is adapted to a different neck finish, revers or a high military band being both possible, and smart for the cut. and if my lady is worried about keeping her arms under the coat there can be slits for them at the usual point. For a cheap evening coat for a very young woman use a white or pale blue eiderdown coating, and out the garment1 after the simple rear version. In the department of day coats at every price there is a mad tendency to cut the garment shorter than Is needed for entire becomlngness. The most popular coat of the moment is quite a dinky affair when Judged by the standards for long coats, the model fall, ing Just an inch or so below the knees, with the fronts double-breasted and rounding up at the bottom, and the back square or cut with the beetle dip. The collar and cuff trim of the coat is varied according to material, but the neck finish is likely to cover a great deal of the shoulders, and if shawl revers are used, they are apt to taper down to the w-aist line. Long sleeves are de rlgueur for all useful coats, and yet the so-called long sleeve very ofter falls short of the wrist when it is wide and loose. As for the sleeves of the grand day coat, however low the neck of it appears, they all cover the hand, being trimmed there with lace flounces of a rich sort, and of course showing the hobble treat ment of the bottom edge of the coat. But as to day and evening coats, they are largely f matter of color, for If one has a vehicle of some sort for getting around receptions wraps will be as filmy and foolish as dance ones. DasblniK Hat Is Worn. Let us" return to the coat of dinky cut which is so popular now, and which always offers a splendid idea for the top garment of a tailored, suit in one fabric; for it is the difference between the coat and skirt materials which makes this model trying to most figures. The style is, shown by figure B, the material being a tan wool ratine and. the trimming black panne velvet. As a one-piece dress of black panne is worn with this garment it is THREE CORRECT MODELS IN FOOTWEAR POPULAR 1 1 """ " ; ' Trim Buttoned Boot of Dull Calf, Welted Sole and Cuban Heel Is Substan tial and Dressy Rhinestone Buckles on Dancing Slippers in Vogue. V-V I " V- if) f . I . Is: J) - '- : ' 4- - -- .": A .faff . a ;:!S:';i;':'5 ii'iv: :"' I - lis IQ63-. ; s-f '.f S: : ' -ti 3 V- ' ;? . " S IT : s I l ' A f : t ' ml mmmmmM rli 0mmmm NEWEST FASHIONS THE three correct fotowear models pictured here would carry a wo man satisfactorily through a week-end visit. The trim buttoned boot, of dull calf, with Its welted sole and rather high Cuban heel will answer for travel ing wear and is also dainty and dressy enough in shape to be correct with trailing afternoon gowns of a formal type. The pretty slipper of patent leather has a high Louis XVI heel and a rhlne stone buckle and may be used with dinner or dancing gown in the even High - Priced Fabrics Much Used, Trot Apparel Velvet Still Reigns. here presented In its most aristocratic phase, and the get-up is aamiramy tonned bv a very dashing hat of black panne and yellow and black paradise plumes. ' Ready made, a coat in this style can be had from 115 up. Woolly coatings In two colors, wide wale serge coating, wool cheviot, chinchilla, etc., are some of the practical materials. - If the orarment is to be made at home it can be varied as the type need.3, and if the dressmaker wants a very swagger coat cut for a stout suit or corduroy or serge she could -do no better than to use this model. If the coat get-up is to be for reception purposes, and there is every chance of its being as well the only garment for the theater, have the coat of velveteen and the dress of cloth in the same color. Taupe, in that very- smart shade called eclipse, would ba a splendid color for it, al though many rich shades of plum are equally fashionable. r Never were fur coats more numerous or splendid than now, for the pelts have a silken suppleness and the en tire fur garment, even in rabbit skin, calls for rich touches, unless it Is the absolutely plain thing. But here, too, the moderate purse is considered, for plush is used for the most furry-looking coats, and nobody despises their wearers for their "near" furs. Superb skins, too, are most deftly counter- felted, some little animal known only to the furrier lending his hide for orettv imitations of mole, and some other furry creature lending his for skins called by different names. Whether or not the common pussy cat ever pro vides any of the cosy fineries, I cannot IX FOOTWEAR. ing. For out-of-door tramps across country the laced boot of tan calf will be exactly the thing and. its fine lines and perforated trimming give a snap py look that will not be amiss with the traveling costume if the latter is In simple tailored style. Many of these tan boots for Kali and Winter wear are made of a new leather which may be wiped clean with ordinary soap and water and which does not become stained with mud and water as the ordinary tan leather does. These boots are convenient for travel ing and week-end visiting when one wants to spend as little time as possi ble putting one's belongings in order. say, but I have seen some imitation skins uncommonly like our domestic friends' pretty coat in both gray and black,- the skins being used for the collars and cuffs of dark gray and white wool coats. - ' - rinsk "Fun" Exploited. The plush fad is exploited by Figure C, the imitation looking prodigiously1 like Hudson seal, the pile of the fabric being so long and thick and the color so rich. The coat is the conventional skirt length model, and it is single breasted and fastens with handsome frogs in the brown of the plush. The collar and cuffs are of white cloth edged with skunk. This design is especially good for a practical wool garment which would be needed for traveling, the automobile or storm wear. The model is also ad mirable for velvet, velveteen or cordu roy, and If the garment is to- be used in a warm climate a silk or satin coat ing would achieve a very fine thing. But the whole question of coats comes down' to the wearer's figure. The very plump woman with large hips and prominent, bust Is not beautified with a long coat with scant back, and the tall, angular woman sometimes -looks ridiculous in the beetle-back cuts. So, several coat styles must be tried until the desirable thing manifests itself, and, to be perfectly truthful, this exact decision is much more posstbie with ready-made garments than with homemade-ones. The good shop has coat cure, for all types the long, the short, the fat, the lean. And already the sales have begun, the finer garments being much cheaper now than at the beginning of the season. , MART DEAN. Answers to Correspondence BY LILIAN TINGLE. PORTLAND, Or., Oct. 10. Will you kindly answer tbe following questions! (1) How to make colorlnit . from parsley for leaves on fancy cakes. (2) What kind of fruit are kumquats? Where do they grow and can they be obtained hereT (3) When a recipe calls for cup sour milk and one teaspoon of aoda In what proportions could weet milk and baking powder be used In place of sour milk and soda? (4) Also, when a recipe calls for teaspoon of soda and- three teaspoons of cream of tartar, what amount of baking powder would thai equal 7 . MKB. R. . 1. ' Green coloring can be made from parslejr or spinach by - cooking the leaves a few minutes in a small quan tity of boiling water (just enough to draw out the Juice and keep the leaves from burning), to which a pinch of soda has been added. Squeeze the Juice through a cheese cloth and boll up with an equal quantity of sugar. Bottle for use. This does not keep well, and if made by an inexperienced hand, may taste of parsley or spinach. I would advise you not to bother with this, but to use a little of a really first-class harmless "fruit color paste- such as can be purchased at 12 hi to 15 cents a package at any high-class grocery. Be careful not -to. use too much. A little yellow paste or brown caramel may be used with the green to give a more pleasing and less "deadly" looking tint than the "emerald" green of the paste. 2. Kumquat is a poetical Chinese word meaning "gold orange. Kum quats are like tiny oval oranges, with a peculiar spiceness and fragrance. They are used in' fruit cocktails, salads, cold drinks, desserts. Jelly, preserves, etc. Preserved or candled kumquats are ob tainable here from dealers In choice imported foods, but the fresh fruits are, I think, rarely seen in the Port land markets. Kumquats grow in China and Japan and are probably grown also in California, though I am not sure. Question 2 and 3 may be conveniently answered together. As -a general rule, one level teaspoon of soda, if com pletely neutralized by -the proper amount of acid, will give off gas equal to that obtainable from one level tablespoon of baking powder, or enough gas to thoroughly lighten a plain dough made with one pint of average flour,, where no eggs or other leavening materials are used. Baking powder labels usually say "two heaping teaspoons to one quart flour," which sonnds. more economical, but actually one level tablespoon is equal to one heaping teaspoon and is a much more accurate description of quantty. Three level domestic tea spoons usually equal one level domes tic tablespoon. For convenience, i slightly smaller teaspoon (one-fourth of a table spoon) is frequently used in school cooking. We may therefore give the rule, one level teaspoon of soda, completely neu tralized, has leavening power equal to one level tablespoon of baking pow der; one level teaspoon of soda requires to neutralize it the acid usually con tained in (1) one Dint (two cups) per fectly clabbered sour milk, or (2) in two cups of "mild" molasses, or (3) in one cup-'Of strong molasses, or (4) in two teaspoons of cream of tartar, or (5) In one teaspoon of powdered tartaric acid. You should know these propor tions by heart, . and then you can "adapt" the leavening of any well analyzed recipe for sweet or sour milk, or sweet and sour milk if necessary. The teaspoons of cream of tartar should really be measured slightly more generously than the' soda say two and one-sixth teaspoons cream of tartar to one teaspoon of soda; but three teaspoons of cream of tartar to one teaspoon of soda is a bad propor tion, unless the soda is "rounding"' or, possibly, it is In a recipe where cream of tartar might be needed for other purposes besides leavening. Such cases, however, are rare. One "rounding" teaspoon of soda would probably need quite . three level teaspoons cream of tartar. Not knowing the rest of the recipe you quote, I cannot say whether "one teaspoon soda, and three teaspoons cream of tartar" reaHy means "one level teaspoon of soda with two tea spoons of cream of tartar equal to one level tablespoon of baking powder," or one and one-half (level) teaspoons soda with three teaspoons cream of tartar equal to one and one-half level tablespoons baking powder, but prob ably you can Judge for yourself from the above remarks. In the same way, one teaspoon of soda would be a bad proportion with half a cup of sour milk, unless the recipe also contains enough acid (inthe form, for instance, of molasses or cream of tartar or both) to neutralize the otherwise uncomblned and therefore unwholesome and flavor destroying three-quarters of a tea spoon of soda. But again, you can ad just the recipe by the table given above. Another example: A gingerbread re cipe might read: Two and one-quarter cuds flour.' 1 cup strong molasses, half a cup of water, 1 teaspoonful of soda. 1A teasDOons or ginger, nan a tea- SDOonful of salt, 4 tablespoons of melted shortening. You might leavei flour and flavoring unchanged,.cut down the butter to 3 tablespoons, use a weaker molasses and one-half sour milk in Dlace of water; or you could make a "spice cake," varying the flavor ing and using less molasses isay, nan a cup), with more sour milk, or sweet milk, and cream of tartar; or use sugar In place of molasses, sweet miiK ana 1 level tablespoon of baking powder; or part molasses and part sugar for sweetness, with a corresponding amount of soda, part sour milk with soda and the rest of the wetting made up with sweet milk or water, and have the rest of the necessary leavening sup plied by baking powder. A practical, scientific cook can Juggle with leaven- ners and always be sure of good re sults, but it is dangerous for a begin ner, who possibly has no laea or tne underlying chemical principles in soda leavening. Knowing and applying the above table will help, however. Still . another example: You have some sour milk, say a quarter of a cup; BRUSH AND NEEDLE GIFTS FOR CHRISTMAS STARTED Woman Who Embroiders Can Make Dainty Cocktail Trays Photograph Frame From Silk Shaving Paper Cases and Bookmarks Suggested. 1 W) cjpl 41 ' P 5 ,t t ' -, -i V n i i , -a..., r .. .....1. 1.i, ,!-"--' rt i mi inr titriiiiintn-iii.iTei 4 I NEW STYLES IN TRAYS I'KOVE ATT11ACT1VK AND FOflLAR TO If HOUSEKEEPERS TODAY. I 4 - IT IS none too soon to begin on the Christmas "work, if dainty remem brances are ' to' be made by hand with brush or needle. ' Three charming Christmas suggestions for the woman who embroiders are offered here. The tea-tray, or cocktail-tray, as these small trays are sometimes called, has a rim of wicker with wicker handles, and the center of the tray is covered with a slab of heavy glass over hand-embroidered linen. These trays come all ready to embroider in the departments where needlework supplies are sold, and all one has to do Is to embroider the linen, press it well and then put the tray together. 1 Such a gift will be appreciated by any hostess, especially one who entertains at tea hour or who likes to send a cup of breakfast coffee up to the occasional occupants of her guest-room. The photograph frame Is a new model of moire silk emproldered by hand with the ribbocene, the dainty needle work for which the French are famous. This sort of embroidery is not difficult to do and ribbocene-embroldered arti cles are just now much fancied for for mal drawing-rooms and boudoirs. The frame pictured is made of deep, cream moire silk, and the embroidery is in shades of pink, green, pale yellow and old blue, typical Watteau colors. The embroidered silk !s stretched over the heavy cardboard frame, a layer of thin wadding being laid between, and the glass and back are attached with small metal clamps. Luck Plays Part. A shaving paper-case is the eternally useful gift for father or brother, for such case never lasts much longer than the year, and a fresh new one Is al ways very welcome. The shaving case you want to use It to make a plain spice loaf 2 cups of flour size, without eggs. You will need the equivalent of two- thirds to three-fourths cups "watery wetting and 1 level tablespoon of bak ing powder. You like a mixed spice and molasses flavor, but not much molasses. Now to build your recipe: Two cups flour (foundation), 4 table SDOons shortening melted; one-half a cup sugar (sweetening), one-quarter of a cup sour milk (sweetening, wetting and acid), one-fourth to one-third or a cup sweet milk or water (wetting). This gives a little over three-quarters cup wetting, but it is slightly thick ened already, so would be about equal to three-auarters cup "watery wet ting" and probably about right, de pending- UDOn the kind of flour used. Now the leavening, one-quarter cup of sour milk will neutralize one-eightn teaspoon soda; one-quarter cup weak molasses will also neutralize one eighth teaspoon soda. Therefore, you may, according to convenience, use one teaspoon soda and add one and a half teaspoons cream of tartar; or one quarter of a teaspoon of soda and three-quarters of a tablespoon baking powder; or one-half teaspoon soda, one-half teaspoon of cream of tartar (half this soda goes with the acid of the molasses and sour milk), and one half tablespoon . of baking powder. In each case the amount of gas given off would be about the same, and enough to leaven two cups flour without eggs. I omit spice, raisins, etc., for the sake df clearness. A plain layer cake recipe calling for half a -cup of sour milk and one tea spoon of soda should include also one and a half teaspoons cream of tartar. In substituting you might use sweet milk and one teaspoon of soda with two teaspoons of cream of tartar or sweet milk and one level tablespoon of baking' powder; or sweet milk, half a tablespoon of baking powder, half a teaspoon of soda and one teaspoon of cream of tartar. You will notice now the baking powder equivalent is shown that one teaspoon of soda for a cake requiring only hair a cup of wetting would either remain partly uncom blned, giving an inferior flavor or else if fully combined there would proD ably be rather an excess of leavening for the size of the cake and excess of baking powder or leavening means a coarse-grained quickly drying sort of cake. PORTLAND. Or.. Oct. 23. I am a new comer to Portland and find your cooking column very interesting and u.eful. I have tried several of your recipes with success. Would you kindly print me a recipe for white bean soup; also la "prime rlba of beer an oven roast or do you pot-roast it 7 How do you cook It to keep all the Juice In? MRS. L. P. White bean soup, one cup dried white or lima beans, three pints water, a small onion, four large slices carrot, two tablespoons fat or butter, one cui milk, two tablespoons flour, one to two tablespoons salt, one-quarter of a teaspoon of white pepper, a few drops of lemon Juice, one teaspoon of suerar, one-eighth of a teaspoon of soda. Soak the beans over night. Drain and cook 20 minutes in hot water with the soda. Drain again and cook until soft in three Dints of water, adding more water as it boils away. Cut up the vegetables in small pieces, and cook them five minutes In half the butter. Add the flour, then a little of the bean liquid, bring to a boil and add to the soup. Cook In a flreless cooker or over the gas-slmmerer until the beans are soft. Bub through a sieve and reheat with the seasonings, milk. and remaining butter. Serve with croutons. The vegetables may be cooked in with the beans, and fat may be sup piled by cooking a bit of fat meat or bacon rind with the beans; but the flavor is better If the vegetables are treated as above. The milk may be omitted, for a change, and the thick soup simply diluted with stock or water. Bead the soup lesson in .an other column for further suggestions. Prime ribs of beef should be an oven roast. If from a poor animal, It may be necessary to pot-roast it, but it is a cut which ought to be tender and Juicy enough for an oven roast. It is one of the most expensive cuts, but not necessarily the most nutri pictured will be sure .to bring luck to its possessor, for it holds ' both the lucky symbols, a horseshoe and a four leaved clover. The embroidery is done in two shades of green on tan linen, the clover blossoms being added in old pink. The case has a tan linen back shaped like the front, and also scalloped all around. Between are the , generous j i nt ehaulntf nanpr and a .smart. green satin bow makes a handle by which the shaving case may De nuns from a hook,. Women who have a supply of inter esting snapshots taken during the Summer vacation can make charming n.iantiapa a n H hnnkmArks with" them. These will be especially pretty if the prints are slightly tinted witn Japa nese colors, the special colors that come for- tinting photographs. Be sure and apply the tints very delicately, and lay the print, wet thoroughly in clear water, on a piece of glass while it is being tinted. Allow It to dry on the glass until the corners begin to curl up, then remove It and dry between blotters. ' Motto Is Mncb. Vied. . Make long, narrow bookmarks or calendar mounts of white watercolor board or mounting paper, back these with colored mounting paper, allowing the color to show a tiny bit all around the edge. Cut a bit from selected pho tograph. Just the right size to harmon ize with the prepared bookmark or cal endar. Back the little photo with thq colored mounting paper and apply it, so backed, on the white slip. An appropriate motto may be , in scribed on the bookmark, and a small 1913 calendar pasted on the calendar slip. A tiny bow and loop of ribbon Bhould be added to one end of the calendar so that it may be hung up. tious. I regret that having recently given in detail directions for roasting so as to retain the Juice, I cannot now repeat them. There will be, however, several lessons on meat cooking in the series I am trying to write on "What the Recipe Does Not Tell You." I must ask other correspondents to wait until next weeK ior meirrtyura Menus for One Week Tuesday. Black bean soup with egg and lemon slices. Vegetable curry with rice. Apple, nut and celery salad. Cranberry Pudding. Coffee. . ' Wednesday. ' Vegetable puree with crutons. Pot roast with brown potatoes. Scalloped cabbage. Lettuce and ground cherry salad. Grape fluff. Coffee. ' Thursday. Cream of celery aoup. Sliced beef In Spanish sauce. Mashed potatoes. Canned peas. Pineapple salad. Rice cream soup. Coffee. Friday. Swiss potato soup. Nut loaf with celery sauce. Baked tomatoes. Noodles. Orange salad. Apple popovers. Coffee. Saturday. Chestnut soup. Thick broiled steak. French potatoes,. Scalloped celery. . . Combination salad. Junket. Coffee. Sunday. Brown soup. Roast leg of lamb. Brown potatoes. . Mint grapes. Cauliflower. Celery, pimento and pear salad. Pumpkin pie. Coffee. -. Monday. Rice soup. Sliced lamb in casserole, with vegetables. Potato crust. Jellied fruit salad. Cream Dressing, Cockles. Co ff ea. FYr the Play Hour. Washington (D. C.) Herald. French mothers greatly approve the Jupe pantaloons for their small girls, and on the sands at the seashore little figures in jersey suits might easily be mistaken for their small brothers, save when the mistake had, been made of leaving their hair uncomfortably long and out of harmony with their clothes. -It is foolish, however, to put all girls of 10 years old into these sexless gar ments, and there are some mothers who. so far as younger children are concerned, fully appreciate the ad vantage of playing suits, but prefer that they should be more obviously feminine In design. As an alternative to serge or Jersey, they have chosen play overalls of linen, made with the skirt and bodice in one, the skirt being of the divided order and comfortably baggy. Planked Eggs. Washington (D. C.) Star. Arrange on a plank a mixture of chopped chicken, corned beef or cooked tongue, with an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs. Add enough cream or soup stock to moisten. Season with salt, pepper and paprika. Make de pressions with spoon in the mixture and place them on as many poached eggs as there are persons to be served and brown slightly in oven. Duchesse potato border can be placed around If desired. Garnish with parsley. Modes of the Moment. Exchange. When in doubt have navy serge is always sound philosophy, and now that the deml-saison has arrived and the hot Summer weather has broken up we are only anticipating a little when we order tailor suits of navy blue serge for the Autumn season. For the most part they will be quite Plain Corset Talks TO W.ISE WOMEN (No. 9) The picture below shows -at a glance the unheard-of corset comfort achieved by our invention of DURABLE elastic fabrics. Corsets can be made with gores and bands of ordinary elastic; but most manufacturers hesitate to make such corsets, knowing that all ordinary elastics will quickly wear out. For the same reason, wise women decline to buy them. Be a Wise WomanI lN-rilDVF bAtis atrBDONQ Our latest model in Self-Reducing Corsets, and the GREAT EST FIGURE-REDUCING CORSETS ever made. Two models; No. 506 Broad band, ol Lasnltops Webbing, below the back ateeli, and laced down to the end, form our new "In-Curve Back." Very long skirt has four gores of our new elastic Latikop Cloth. A marvel of figure control and comfort. Low butts sizes 20 to 3695.00. . No. SOS Same as No. 506, but witk medium bust $5.00. With Improved Bandlet No. 522 medium bust) $Cf .00 No. 623 low bust ) J The Greatest SUPPORT ING Corsets in Existence For Slender Figures - No. 504 Extra-long skirt, medium bust, elastic hip-confining bands; of fine white silk-brocaded batiste $5.00. No. 507 For slender and medium figures; extra-long skirt, medium bust; the new elastic Limshaping Extensions reduce large upper limbs; very fine white batiste $5.00. No other corset can take the place of a Nemo in ser vice, style, wear or comfort. Ce a Wise Ycman! and deal only with stores that will sell M you a Mh.M(J when you ask ior n. (id HOPS IROt., Maavtastonrs, New Tark severely plain, the only adornment be ing buttons and braid. Braid will blnfl the square-cut coat, which fastens in single-breasted fashion In front, and -a single row of buttons runs down tfi6 center of the front of the skirt. Panels and pleats will be popular also, for the skirts will remain quite tight in au pearanc, although slightly fuller In cut. " Points on Dress. ",'m Exchange. m Embroidery is very freely used. Lin gerle dresses show combinations of em broider; and maline laces: Z7-lnch em broidery flouncing, forming tunics fr skirt draperies, is mounted on accord dion-pleated batiste or net foundation skirt. All-over embroidered batiste and cotton crepes form entire dresses. jytW Mr r1 7 "s i. - ---til i" "" ' 1506 VVJM U