The Sunday Oregonian., April 21, 1912, SECTION FIVE, Page 6, Image 68

G TOE SUXDAY OREGOMAX, POItTL AXP, APR ITi 21, 191?. j -
there are white kid boots with elab- I
orate black trimmings. Button-strap I
slippers of patent leather, worn over '
white stockings are another startling I
phase of the magpie footwear whim.
. . .
A new outing coat for young women ;
Is smarter than the eternal knitted
sweater, which has had a long day.
These coats are hip length affairs of
soft, lightweight, all-wool mixtures In j
TUNIC BUTTONING AT KNEE AND COAT
BELTED WITH SOFT SASH MAKE DEBUT
Black or Brown Taffeta Changeant, Worn With Slippers and Hemp Hat, Is Notable Feature at Anteuil Vests
For Women Become Part of Latest Parisian Mode.
GRACEFUL TOWEL-LIKE WRAP ATTRACTS
ATTENTION IN THE FASHION CENTERS
New Costume of Leather-Colored Drop Epone or Terry -Cloth Listed With Smartest Effect, of Season, Is
Chic and Correct Lines are Severely Straight
loose, informal Norfolk style. They)
have a breezy, reefer-like suggestion
rvri o v In lln nn a.nt off. Pock
eta, collar and other details are man-
nish In suggestion and the coats are I
Ideal for outing wear and for yachting, j
3
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O costume worn at Auteull this
Spring has attracted mora atten
tion than this graceful wrap of
leather-colored drop eponge. or terry
cloth. In a light silk and wool weave.
This material la soft and fleecy In tex
ture and la absolutely without aheen.
In the tan and leather shades It la
particularly attractive In coloring and
many of the amartest Spring wrapa are
bulit of It.
Thla wrap has very straight linea
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PANNIER SKIRTS FORM ATTRACTION
AMONG STYLES AT FRENCH RACES
Taffeta Now Eage in Paris Wraps With "Wired Hoods, Taffeta Suits in Changeable Colors With Coats and
Skirts of Contrasting Wool Fabric, Some of Most Dainty Attire Shown. -
NEW YORK, April 10. (SpeclAL)
Though the weather In Paria this
Spring has not been much more
agreeable than that Buffered by New
York, the opening race meets at Au
teu!j In March were well attended and
I'arls blossomed out In Spring attire,
albeit furs were worn by most of the
women. On the Sundays of March 10
and Zi especially brilliant gatherings
of the fashionables were on view, and
on ore of these Sundays the snapshots
taken by an American press correspon
dent secured some particularly Interest
ing style Information.
One fashion fact is paramount the
supremacy of taffeta. Everything la
made of taffeta that can be made of
taffeta. Boots and glovea are the only
visible wearables that teem to have
escaped the taffeta epidemic which has
broken out In gowns, wraps, two-piece
suits, parasols, petticoats and hats.
Many changeable taffetas were seen at
Auteull. but there were also many
mart wraps and suits of plain taffeta,
with very dark blue, much darker than
navy, the favorite color. In changeable
taffetas one noted blue and black,
brown and black and green and black,
the last combination being an evident
favorite. Polret Is running to greens
this Spring, though he still obstinately
refuses to accept the lowered waistline.
All the Polret suits are slim and nar
row and a bit hlgh-walsted. and glv
their wearers the adorable Polret girl
lshness of silhouette which Is half the
secret of this coutourlers popularity.
Paaalrr Skirts at Rsets.
Every dressmaker of any Importance,
of course, sends a number of represen
tative costumes to the Spring race
meets: and the mannequins who parade
about In these stunning creations are
the cynosure of all eyes. Cherult has
shown a dozen- pannier skirts and Is
evidently pushing this style with all
her Cherult might. One of her frocks,
worn at Auteull on ' March 10. was
of sage green taffeta shot with cham
pagne, the bodice and pannier of thla
charming color combination being
mounted over a narrow petticoat of
black satin, short enough to reveal llt
tie high-heeled black satin boots with
crystal buttons. A ncmber of women
at the Spring races have appeared In
aiippers. with several straps buttoning
across the instep which waa covered
by the filmiest of stccklngi. These
sappers have enormously high heels
so that the Instep la made to appear
very high and arched. -
A Drecoll costume, called the Biar
ritz, made quite a sensation at AuteulL
This model Is made of eyelet embroid
I it? L I
and la shaped the least bit by seama
under the flowing sleeve and down the
aide. The simple drawn thread bor
derr'done by hand, makes an effective
trimming. The velvet collar lapa
over revera of cotton cretonne braided
with fine silver cord around the col
ored motifs.
Though the skirt of this tmnrt black
taffeta gown has no drapery, the tunlo
Is cut with a slight flare at the bottom
so that It la wider than the very nar
ered taffeta, the embroidery being very
rich and elaborate and almost com
pletely covering the little coat, while
three embroidered flounces form the
skirt. One of the niarrlts models was
of black taffeta with the eyelet work
done In dark bLue and was accom
panied by a black tam-'o-shanter hat
with a blue plume, blue silk gloves
with black embroideries on the wrist
and a parasol matching the material of
the dress. No costume at the race
meet attracted more attention than
this beautiful Drecoll model; and
though most of the women carried
muffs of fur the, wearer of the dainty
Biarritz toilette kept her embroidered
paraaol raised most of the time. '
Tnt-riwr Halts Are Crase.
Another new fashion, launched at
Auteull In March. Is the coat of dark,
plain-colored fabric Over a skirt of
contrasting material. Some yeara ago.
black or blue street coats over skirts
of checked or plain wool fabric were
considered - especially chic, but the
style has been forgotten In the craze
for two-piece suits of one color.- One
natty little suit at Auteull showed a
short cutaway jacket of blue serge over
a blue and white serge skirt, and the
cream straw sailor waa trimmed with
blue velvet and a big blue pompon. An
other costume Included a draped skirt
of white permo fabrlo a silky weave
of wool with mohair and a smart,
hip-length coat of black satin trimmed
with rows of white pearl buttons. The
hat was a leghorn tan with a pert
black feather, and the boots were but
toned affairs of white buckskin.
That Callot Soeurs are In favor of a
return of pleated skirts waa made evi
dent at Auteull on the fourth Sunday
In March. No less than three Callot
mannequins paraded about with skirts
STYLES IN MILLINERY
RUN TO WEIRD EFFECTS
Bine-Green, in Changeable Taffeta Weave, Worn in Hats and in Smart
Neck we ax, Form Irresistible Combinations With Black Straw Hats.
WEIRD and strange things are
being done with ribbon by the
milliners. The lateat fancy Is
a ribbon ornament Intended to repre
sent the tall plumage of a bird, and
the big loops of ribbon slanting back
ward from the crown of the hat and
bobbing as the wearer walks, have a
very Jaunty air. Taffeta ribbon la
used and the broad, soft loops are
wired pnly along the upper edge, the
i
row skirt and gives the lines of a pan
nier drapery. The whole costume Is
very chTc and correct; the neat, sim
ple black taffeta gown being accom
panied by a bluck and white tricorne
hat. white silk gloves embroidered on
the wrists and buttled strap slippers
of patent leather. The white muff was
evidently carried as a concession to the
weather, for this costume was photo
graphed on a chlly March day, at
Auteull.
In pronounced pleated effects. These
pleated skirts were not a whit wider.
In effect, than the narrowest of the
narrow Polret models; for the pleats
were very shallow and were cunningly
stitched and pressed to give the
straight, narrow eklrt line; but pleats
they were and no one might gainsay
It. Now that panniers and pleats have
crept over the horizon, the very nar
row skirt forsees Its deathblow, though
the same may be some time In falling,
for women will be loath to give up
the girlish, graceful narrow skirt line.
Maanlxh Style In Vogue.
Though most of the women at Au
teull this Spring have worn tailored
suits. In rather severe mannish style
for feminine and frivolous Paris a
number of handsome wraps were seen,
and one of these, by Bechoff-David, Is
worthy of description. The wrap was
of dark green and black changeable
taffeta and closely followed the lines
of the' figure, though' the material
seemed to hang perfectly straight at
the shoulders. Bands of wide black
braid, edged at one side with the nar
rowest black silk fringe, trimmed the
nleevt and ne:k openings and defined
the cross-over front opening of the
wrap. Down the shoulder line at each
side, from the neck to the cuff, went
a row of little gilt buttons set closely
tcgether. Black and blue changeable
taffeta wraps trimmed with the fash
ionable corded boulllonne wero In evi
dence, and one, by Worth, had an Im
mense wired hood trimmed with pinked
out ruches of the silk. A few leather
colored drap eponge, or Turkish tow
ellng. wraps were noted, but these
wraps are more in favor for evmlng
and ceremonious wear than fot the
races, where tailored street garb pre
ponderates. lower edge falling against the crown
of the hat.
Magpie footwear Is the whim of Par
Is now and many of the new Spring
costumes worn at Auteull have been
accompanied by black and white boots,
undoubtedly modish If a little startling
and bizarre. Some of these magpie
boots are of patent leather with tops
of white kid having black buttons and
black pipings down the Instep; and
There Is a particular blue-green to
be had In the changeable taffeta weave
which is adorably becoming to fair
women. One sees this color on hats
and made up In smart neckbows but
It Is a little too vivid for whole cos
tumes. It brings out the blue in blue
eyes for It is more blue than green.
A black straw hat trimmed with a
huge bow of this blue-green taffeta
with a bow to match under the chin,
form an Irresistible effect. Some of
the long silk gloves In creamy shade'
have einbrodierles In this bluish-green
color on the wrist.
Buckles are enjoying an unexpected
position on the top of fashion's ever
revolving wheel. Belts have buckles;
so have neck-bows and hats. The
very newest whim Is an arrangement
of buckled straps at the back of coat
and skirt, the material being drawn In
the least bit under the strap. A coat
and skirt costume of khaki-colored per
mo fabric light, silky weave of wor
sted and mohair, has two broad white
leather straps crossing the coat-front
obliquely from the right shoulder to
the left hip. The straps are placed
close together, and at a little distance
look like a long white rever. At the
lower end they appear to buckle to
the coat with massive gilt buckles.
Separate skirts of hairstrlped white
serge are smarter for tennis and golf
than skirts of linen. These serge
skirts atre made with extreme "simpli
city and usually button down one hip.
Sometimes inverted pleats. flatly
pressed, are added at the sides of front
to give width for active exercise. Such
a skirt is always short enough to
escape the ground well even when heel
less tennis shoes are donned; though
for the Journey through town out to
the, country club, buttoned boots of
white buckskin are worn.
There Is a new silk stocking, which
Is warranted not to "run" in the ag
gravating "ladders," which are so dif
ficult to darn neatly and which, darned
or undarned, ruin the effect of the
stocking. The top of the stocking,
where the garter is attached. Is woven
separately and is attached to the sheer
thread silk portion by a strong ma
chine stitch past which the possible
"ladder" caused by the garter cannot
get. Flesh-colored silk hose, or a pale
champagne color, are smarter than
black now, with the neatly fitting
buttoned boot of satin, buckskin, or
dull calf. '
Smart little frocks of cotton ratine
are throwing the sturdy linens Into the
shade. One of these frocks, made of
gray cotton ratine woven with white,
was shown in an exclusive window the
other day. The frock was belted with
a narrow belt of black patent leather,
and had large whlt.e crochet buttons
down the front. More white buttons
emphasized a coat-tall arrangement at
the back and there was an effective
collar of white ratine lace, the coarse
heavy lace In worsted effect. A white
hat. green parasol and white buttoned
buckskin boots were placed beside the
gray frock.
With the three-quarters sleeve now
prevalent, long gloves are required, and
these gloves are often of soft, yet
rather heavy silk, embroidered on the
wrist in floral or cameo effect. Some
times the embroideries are done in one
color and sometimes In contrasting or
two-tone effect.
Household Hints.
Limewater There are Innumerable
uses for limewater, and so no home
should ever be without it. It Is used
to keep milk vessels wholesome, to
make the milk set well on baby stom
achs or adult ones, to soften water,
sweeten drains, etc. By beating lime
water well Into olive or linseed oil
there results one of the best-known
remedies for burns and scalds. Put
a lump of quicklime as big as the two
fists Into a clean earthen pitcher, pour
ing over enough fresh drinking water
to cover It six lnphes deep. Stir well
with wooden spoon, let stand half a
day. and then pour off the clear lliiuld
without disturbing the lime at the bot
tom of the pitcher. Strain through
doubled cheesecloth and then keep In
small bottles tightly corked. When us
ipg, always pour off a little from the
fresh bottle or one that has been
opened. Thus one gets rid of the crust
that forms. -
Carbolic Soap With tubercular
trouble this Is Invaluable, as It can be
used for disinfecting dishes and cloth
ing. It Is declared now that the dread
white plague Is more communicable
through the perspiration than through
the sputum. Shave and melt a bar of
mottled castile soap. Do this In a
double boiler so there will be no dan
ger of scorching. Beat Into the melted
soap, a little at a time, half a pint of
carbolic acid solution of 60 per cent
strength. Keep on beating with the
vessel still over the boiling water for
a quarter of an hour. Allow to cool and
when almost congealed mold Into cakes
and let stand a month In a dry place.
Suds from this ,soap will disinfect
glass, pottery and metal, and If the
water Is boiling hot it will also sweet
en wood. Tuberculosis patients and
others with Infectious diseases should
always be bathed with such a soap.
Keep the carbolic acid when In liquid
state far from the children, as It is a
most virulent and terrible poison.
Begin With the Young.
. The Christian Herald.
Our Chrlstis.n education and evangel
Ism, to be most effective, must begin
with the young.
It was a very suggestive, statement,
that of Disraeli when he said: "It is a
glorious thing to see a state saved by
her youth." .
Statesmen tell us that we must stop
raising rogues. If we would get rid of
the race.
Christian education should begin with
the dawn of existence and predominate
through the whole course of education.
"First, midst and last," we should teach
"what man is to believe concerning
God and what duty God requires of
man."
As eternity surpasses time In Impor
tance, so does this surpass all other
knowledge. If our children are trained
In secular schools and grow up godless,
our boasted science will soon shine like
an electric light over a moral grave
yard. We must begin from the first to
train the heart and conscience along
with the Intellect.
Heart Cookies.
Good Housekeeping.
When making plain cookies I add a
quarter of a pound of melted chocolate
to the batter, after using half of It,
and make two kinds of cookies. Some
times I cut both kinds with a heart
cutter, and after they are baked join
them with a thing sugar icing.
Velvet and Monssellne.
Cleveland Leader.
A few of the new gowns ahow wide
velvet ribbon on the skirt to outline
a simulated drapery. This Idea will
probably be widely taken up soon on
gowns of mousseline, marquisette and
taffeta.
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IN this taffeta suit the draped skirt
and Jacket emphasizing the waist
line are notable features. The ma
terial is black and brown taffeta
changeant and the suit sows a coat
buttoning down the center front and
belted with a soft saxh. tied at the
front. The tunic, buttoned together
at theknee. is Interesting. With this
NEW PETTICOAT STYLES
IF A WOMAN thinks she can be
smart without considering the lines
and material of her petticoat, she
Is very much mistaken. As skirt foun
dations are still almost as tight as bol
ster slips, the underskirt must be of
the softest fabric and made to fit like
skin.
For best street wear the Jupon, as
the French call this article, is more
often of crepe de chine than of silk.
The skirt Is gored closely over the
hips and fits about the waist without a
gather, thin plaited lace In Van Dyke
points or deep fringes trimming the
bottom. The skirt matches the gown
or else the color of the hat, for as
many outside skirts are slashed at the
sides, or rounded up over the Instep,
the petticoat frequently shows.
A skirt for solid wear Is a plain tai
lored affair of black satin without a
stitch of trimming, this fastening at
the left front with snap fasteners such
as are used on gloves. A white satin
skirt In the same model, curiously
enough. Is offered for linen coat suits
In any color or white. The satins used
for these underskirts are of the softest
and finest sort, but women who have
tried them declare that they are worth
their price.
Among the silk petticoats, softness
of weave is everywhere seen, and the
scant little skirts seem delicate enough
to pass through the proverbial wed
ding ring. Novelty silks make a some
what smarter effect than the plain ones,
and some odd .ways of trimming the
bottoms seem delightfully novel and
sensible. None of the trimmings Is put
on the outside of the skirt. The bot
toms are cut up into square blocks,
scalloped or shaped In deep points;
along this treatment underneath scant
f rllla of the same material or plaited
ones of lace are set. This arrangement
Is far prettier when the outside skirt
is slashed than if the decking were put
outside, making the skirt seem a more
dress-up affair.
For fine evening . use the petticoat
often seems more elegant than the
dress. With a French gown of white
satin worn at one of the recent dress
shows, the accompanying petticoat was
of a thin Val lace under flesh pink
chiffon. The lovely thing had plenty
of opportunity of displaying its charms
as the outside dress, which was a sort
of princess robe, was slashed at the
two sides up as far as the knee. Tet
the two articles were to be sold sepa
rately. Other elegant petticoats are of
thin silk stockinette, with the bottoms
exquisitely trimmed with fine laces and
wee artificial flowers .or ribbon. A
chiffon flounce over lace, and decked
at the edge with - a trail of fragile
flowers. Is quite a common sight. In
fact, among the party Jupons.
The petticoat which will wash and
serve for everyday and look well, and
not cost too much Is made In a number
of dainty cotton - textures. Gingham,
seersucher and calico appear In these,
but the new weaving of these old fab
rics all bends to the present needs,, no
material seeming the clumsy thing it
was of yore. Black and white is al
ways a good venture for the wash cot
Jk
v-tJJ&cS c?a-
suit are worn button strap slippers of
patent leather over bronze silk stock
ings. The smart hemp hat has a new
pleated brim and a taffeta crown and
bow.
Typically Parisian Is this smart yet
simple race costume of green and black
changeable taffeta, which has a draped
skirt, oddly puffed under buttoned
straps at the hip. The coat Is a new
ton underskirt, but If miladl wishes
she can have ;one to match every col
ored frock In her wardrobe. Folded
up on tables, or hanging about, as the
case may be, the dainty colors of these
bklrts and their pretty stripes, checka
and figures are very Inviting, although
one needs to have a good model in even
a cheap cotton skirt.
Wash silks and pongees are among
the other tub textures displayed by pet
ticoats in good models and fairly cheap,
and women who llce very soft skirts
favor these with lavish purchasing. For
hard use the pongee or wash silk skirt
is always self trimmed, narrow bound
frills being considered the most wash
able garnlshlngs. A good pongee petti,
coat can be had for six dollars. Well
made models in the striped P'rench cali
coes, seersucker and gingham cost from
a dollar and a half up.
MARY DEAN.
FRESH ASPARAGUS Scrape and
cut off the ends of stalks of one bunch
of fresh asparagus;, tie It up in two
bunches, drain thoroughly and plunge
into boiling salted water, cooking 20
minutes. Carefully lift out the bunches
so as to leave the delicate tips Intact,
and dress them on a hot dish covered
with a napkin. The drawn butter or
white sauce needed should be served
separately.
ROAST LAMB AND MINT SAUCE
Get a leg of Spring lamb and neatly
trim the ankle bone; season it all
around with salt' and pepper. Place it
in a roast'ng pan, cover with two
tablespoonfuls of melted lard, put. half
a cup of cold water In the pan and
roast one hour or longer as needed,
basting often. Dress on a hot platter,
decorated with watercress; then skim
the fat from the gravy and pour the
rest over the meat.
Make the mint sauce in this manner:
Skin Peeling Nature's
Aid to New Complexion
(From Woman's Tribune.)
Mercollzed wax is a ' natural beau
tifler. By flaking off Ihe devitalized
surface skin, it merely . hastens Na
ture's work. The second skin layer,
brought gradually to view,- exhibits the
healthy youthful color produced by ca
pillary circulation.' This because 'the
capillaries are thus brought nearer-the
surface; also because the new skin Is
unsolled by dust and dirt. This wax,
to be had at any drug store (an ounce
will do)' is put on nightly like cold
cream, washed off mornings with warm
water. Its work usually is completed
In from seven to ten days, long enough
not to show too marked results from
day ti day, or cause pain or detention
indoors.
A face bath to remove wrinkles, made
by dissolving an ounce of saxollte in a
half pint witch hazel. Is another natu
ral bcautlfler, since Its astringent and
tonic effects smooth out -the wrinkles
in accordance with Nature's own pro
cess. Advt.
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model and Is very chic with its close
shoulder and sleeve lines and fronts
blousing slightly over a belt. Vests
are cropping out in great numbers in
Paris and the narrow buttoned vest
of shrimp pink taffeta is a amart
note in this costime. The hat is a bi
corne of flexible black chip with a
crown of green taffeta and a high para
dise aigrette.
Pick the leaves from fresh mint and
mince them fine: put a half cupful of
the chopped mint in a bowl, add two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one of sugar
and two cups of hot water. Steep the
mixture for a l'ttle while . without
cooking It.
The mint sauce Is served scparatelj
from the lamb.
HOW TO DESTROY
THE DANDRUFF GERM
BY A SPECIALIST.
That the dandruff germ is responsible
for nearly all the diseases to which the
scalp Is heir, as well as for baldness
and premature gray hair, Is a well
known fact, but when we realize that
it is also indirectly responsible for
many of the worst cases of catarrh
and consupmtton, we appreciate the im
portance of any agent that will destroy
its power. We are, therefore, particu
larly pleased to give herewith the pre
scription which an eminent scientist
states he has found, after repeated
tests, to completely destroy the dan
druff germ In from one to three appli
cations. It will also almost immediate
ly stop falling hair and it has in
numerous cases produced a new hair
growth after years of baldness. This
prescription can be made up at home,
or any druggist will put it up for you:
6 ounces Bay Kum. 2 ounces Lavona de
Composee, one-half drachm Menthol
Crystals. Mix thoroughly, and after
standing half an hour it Is ready for
use. Apply night and morning, rub
bing Into the scalp with the finger
tips. If you wish it perfumed, add half
a teaspoonful of To-Kalon Perfume,
which unites perfectly with the other
Ingredients. While this preparation is
not a dye, it Is unequalled for restoring
gray hair to Its original color.
CAUTION: Do not apply where hair
Is not desired and be sure to avoid
tonica containing poisonous wood alco
hol. STAGE BEAUTY SECRETS
Prominent Act reus Tells Some Secrets
Women Will Be Glad to Know.
We are often asked, says a promi
nent actress, what we do to keep our
complexions so clear, and ward off the
signs of approaching age. Nearly every
actress today uses a greaseless cold
cream. We have long since given up
the greasy creams, as they make the
skin fi.abby and grow hairs, while a
good, greaseless cream feeds the skin
and keeps it free from wrinkles. I al
ways make my own cream, using two
ounces of powdered cerol to a pint of
boiling water, stirring until thick and
creamy. This makes a marvelous
cream and so much cheaper than the
ready-made kinds. To keep the form
plump and pretty we find nothing to
equal the gallol tonic made by mixing
an ounce of true gallol with a pint of
sugar syrup. The effects of this tonic
are simply wonderful. It seems to
feed shrunken tissues and rounds out
he form very- quickly.
To keep the hands soft and white
end free from roughness, after wash
ing thoroughly apply freely a simple
lotion of amarol dissolved In water.
Two ounces of amarol to a pint of
boiling water Is the way I usually
mix it. '
5