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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (April 17, 1910)
THE SUNDAY OKEGONTAX, PORTLAND, APRIL, 17, 1910. CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY Stylish and Practical Fashions for Misses HAPF1L.Y for good teste and com mon sonse, tlie exaggerations which are row displayed by adult, fashions nr not affecting the realm of m! sees' wear. Gowns of a very dressy order for fiirls in the teens may show, on occa sions, the tunic draperis worn hy their elders, but the overdress is of a very ?lmple nature, no more, In some cases, than a shorter skirt over the longer on; there are none of the ankle and knee Stytng over draperies, such as are seen pon women's tunic costumes. TThe preference everywhere Is shown Sot effects that may be cailed sweetly girlish, and among these the little one piece frock, or the separated waist and Kklrt with one-piece effect, is by all odds ihe favorite dress of the season. The possibilities' of these models are endless, 'for the one-pirce dress, simulated or ireal, may be anything- from the most 'modest gingham to a silk or satin broad cloth. Collarless necks, delightfully becoming to young- throats, distinguish a number of these pretty frocks, the simpler ones of which are very lightly trimmed. But whether for fine or practical service the Sleeves may be in elbow or three-quarter 'length, which is certainly e. style also tbeoomtnir to youthiful wearers, and one of unnumbered possibilities, for several Iffulmpes in varying degrees of dressiness Imay entirely change tlie look or the dress iwhen a hiRh-necker and longr-sleeved ef tfect is wished. , One lres at least in Summer weight .wool Is necessary for every schoolftirl 'who drosses ut all stylishly, and, very ifensibly, the majority of these dresses ia.re made in coat and, pleated skirt miodels. Knfrlish, worsteds in dainty mix tures' ar mucli used tor these practical Jlttlo suits, with which go most stylishly tailored roady-to-wear hats. mannisli Urloves, and rather plain shirtwaists of Olnen or pongee. The most stylish model for the coats f such dresses has the front seams ex tending from the shoulder, a French back "with, the whujh left open at the. bottom, twnd a Bhuwl coIHit showing a Kxnj And jvery narrow opening-. Trimmings may vhtt only stttcntng'. or a single edge of Sbrald on Mie collar end cuffs, wtille the !!ngie or doubio-breasted fastening may e aceompifsjied -with only two or three buttons'. A bias edge 't Bl11t or satin is also used upon (ljece coat." while many a ooat tniit will show only stitching, the lfjod make of the dress and suitable ac 'cessorles giving the stylish loolc. Five very pretty models for misses' homo dressmaking, with good sense per vading every point of them, are shown in this week's models, and I will sug Igest only such materials for them as :mny be affordud hy the average purse. Three of tlie. dressier frocks are ad mirably suited to commencement use. vAlmost at. the head of these for this service Is tlie design displayed In Fig ure A, a dress of pleated skirt and Jumper blouse In a patterned material, for this may ho made of veiling, silk, or fine lawn, atui trimmed on the skirt as well as bodice. As the dress stands, St Is of spotted pongee blue and tan 'with an embroidered yoke and sleeve !hanls edged with a piping of blue tsatln. The folded girdle Is of the same Batin, and a collarless- gulmpe of all over lnce, with long sleeves, completes the costume. If Intended for practical wear, this own would be pretty in plain linen or TK-ingham, with "the material forming the yoke and sleevehaml, and the Kulmpe of a thin tucked la-wn or cam rlo. For tho 16-year size 10 yards of single-width material would be needed. figure B also gives a Sunday go-to-meetlng or Commencement model, and likewise one for a practical frock of Jinen or cotton. Tho dress is in one piece, with a prin cess panel down the front, and a side and back belting of the waist. The 1de ..pleats of the bodice are continued by lrt pleats stitched at the hips, and a band of the figured goods, piped with plain, forms all the trimming. For a smart dress frock, marquisette veiling with a silk or satin piping In the same ehade, would be pretty and practicable nnd if the dress must do-some duty for Autumn wear. It could be in a thicker wool without loss of style. A Summer ilk, in a girlish design, would also be charming, and though silk sounds like a very fine word, let It be recalled that there are weaves that sell as low as 59 cents the yard. lfor the average-sized rails of 16 the model would need about 11 yards of narrow material, and one and one-half yards of silk for the piping. Figure C depicts a model of surpass ing simplicity, and such a dress a girl with tho sewing gift could make her self with tho expenditure of lust a lit tle time. The frock is a one-piece af fair, with collarlesw neck and elbow sleeves,- and every one of the wash ma terials, except those of the thinnest nature, may be used for it. As Illus trated, the frock Is of white linen, with a scalloped entre deux of the same let Into the goods and ornamenting only the bodice and part of the front seams of the skirt. If a simple texture is sted in brown and white, with a loosely woven braid of brown silk used only upon the collar and sleeves. The coat may be made shorter than Illustrated, as Is liked, but the length pictured would be very stylish on a tall, slim girl, and, talk of short coats or not, it is the length that gives the most styl- KI:mH F" t : used, this banding can be of the goods cut bias; but If ft la of silk or veiling, tlve landing would be prettier of lace, or ribbon or silk, cut bias. The small drawings show how the waist may be made high-necked and long-sleeved and trimmed only with stitching. For the 16-year size, 11 yards of material 24 Inches wide would be re quired. The fourth dress. Figure D, is a shirtwaist style in two pieces, a waist with, a French back and side-pleated skirt. It Is of plain blue chanibray, with a checked banding edged with plain blue, and the whole cut of the lit tle rig suggests only materials of simi lar simplicity. If made of natural col ored pongee, however, with collar, cuffs, belt and tie of the same, the dress would be of great value all Sum mer long as a hot weather and emer gency costume something to put on when more dressy wash frocks are at the laundry. For ft 16 -year-old miss of average figure. 10 or 12 yards of material ac cording to width would be needed for the drese. In figure B Is shown the coat suit par excellence of the season, and In this case It Is made of a shot English w or is h and becoming results. The coat is combined with one of the newesysklrt models -for such suits, this showing a pleated bottom put into a smoothly fitting yoke, which is a wrinkle for the slimming of hips. Such a suit could be made economi cally and with stylish effect of pan ama cloth In any color, and there are unnumbered suitings of a cheap nature in wool and cotton which would, turn it out prettily and be good enough if the suit Is to do only for one season. But if some expense can be afforded, a handsome linen in tan, robin's-egg blue or chantecler red. would develop it splendidly, while there could be no bet ter texture to settle upon, if the suit is to be used for traveling, than the ever-popular pongee. Apropos of pon gee, the most durable ones ha-ve a smooth rather than knotted surface, and very excellent weaves In tills smart, washable and - altogether useful ma terial can be had for from 59 cents the yard up. For the miss of 16. five yards of nar row material would be needed for the coat. The skirt would oall for five and one-half yards and the banding used would need to be two yards long when prepared to put on. , Beauty Hints for Misses IF YOTJ want to ha-ve pretty hands when Ton are a woman grown, don't bite your finger nails. Keeping the nails short In this childish and disgust ing way spoils the hape and quality of them, and the unbeautiful trick, causes the finger tips to spatulate be sides. A little pardonable vanity and 10 seats' worth of bitter aloes win cure the habit. Faint ltu flngar tfp with this so that the bitter taste will re mind ' you ol th misdeed when you carry them to your mouth. War the rest, beautify your hands a little evry day with careful washing and some manrlourtn-sr rites, Onne they begin to Improve la looks you wfll never go back, to the old habit. Cottntry and town girl often write ova about creams and unffuasta for the hands, little knowing that they have one of the best hand lubricators In the world" right In their own kitchens. This is the fat that eomea with the leg nt mutton. the lamb rhopa, eto the grease which, when tried eut. clarified, soentad and chilled n onfitent cakes, beooeutfr multea tallow, So, If. the fanily maaas are limited, don't spnd any more money for boughtea oream but just make yur mini mut ton tallow and use H every night after the hand wash. Chop the raw fat up finely and try It out in a double boiler, for If put directly against the fire. It may burn. Strain it-when thoroughly malted and potrr In a bowl of oold water. TVhen tt has formed a solid cake, melt again, and again go through the process with the bowl of water. Do this three times, straining It every time, and after the last heating put In a small Quanitly of rloii - perfume and pour the grease di rectly into little moulds to harden. The scalloped pans used for drop muffins and cakas are good for this purpose and a oold cellar Is a good plaoe to keep the extra supply of hand tallow. But make up only a small quantity at a time, for the moment it gets rancid Its virtues are lost. When tooth powder happens to run out, don't clean your teeth with any sort of soap that happens to be around, A little good oastile may be uaed thrw times a week, but oftener than thia is Iiaraiful to enamel and the xmbirt of the gums. An occasional brushtag with waited water, or watF treated to a tea spoonful of bicarbonate of soda, is cleansing and antiseptic. Peroxide of hydrogen, one part to four of water, is a bettor whitener and killer of grrrw. If you want a sd cofnpleioe, don't sleep or sit long in an unventilated room, for foul air induces very ugly skin troubles and also encourages colds and malignant fevers. If there are two windows in the bedroom or sitting room, both should be open at the top to cause the draft that will carry off im purities, for if there is no exit for the bad air it simply crowds Itself In one corner until it is swept around for re breathing. But if you happen to have caught a good crop of pimples for all your care fulness regarding fresh air. take a. dose of castor oil or some gentler lax ative and then have this simple oint ment made up at the drug store: Bicarbonate of soda... 3ti grains Glycerine i drachm S-permacetti ointment 1 ounce Rub on the affected parts; let it re main 15 minutes and then wipe off all except a slight film. Anything which disturbs the circula tion or nervous .system of a young girl Is apt to cause pimples but absolute cleanliness of the skin, keeping the bowels free, and drinking plenty of fresh water'will go a long way toward 1 p.. I fewt 'A i R& i ' KIGtHE A. 4 curing them. The beauty doctors also t'-ll you to clean out the mind think only pretty thoughts, in fact, if you want a pretty skin. Borax and glycerine are often effica cious for the mild cases of scaly erup tion which often break out on a girl's body in the Summer when the heat and clothing have irritated tlie skin. For this trouble, which may even Invade the faoe and hands, this little formula gives the right proportions of the external curative needed: Klder-nower water 7 ounce Glycerine 1 ounce Borax , J drachm Apply night and morning and during the day, if the irritation is excessive. If you wear tight shoes now, you will have to wear very loose ones when you grow up, for a growing foot cannot be cramped without throwing the joints out of place, and this, in time, will re sult In actual deformity. Keep the feet in healthy condition with a daily bath of soap and water and put on fresh stockings as often as possible. Spend some of the -candy money, too, for a cooling foot powder and dust this over the feet after every bath and when putting on fresh stockings. A little of the powder shaken in a new pair of shoes will help them to go on and off more easily. A weekly soak of 20 min utes in -hot water, treated to a half cupful of washing soda, will also rest tho feet greatly, and help to banish the soft corn which is caused by the wrong shoes": perspiration, uncieanliness and acid in the system. Combing the hair thoroughly at night, and boing to bed with the locks neatly braided, preserves the elasticity of tlie hair, keeps it from breaking off. and adds to its lustre and general beauty. KATHERINE MORTON". The Unwritten Rules of Girl Friendships iHB chief advantage' of girl friends." said a popular college . girl, "is that you can have so many of them really good friends, I mean. But with men iKls all a girl can do to be really good friends with one. Now. I have six girl chums. There is my when t comes to tennis; and Blanch has always studied with me since we entered college. And Tom's sister I sometimes think is the dearest until I, think of Iis." Unfortunately, all girls arc not capable of such broad-headedness in their friend ship. They begin as children with an FIGITRK n. roommate; I ' couldn't get along without her at times. And there is Mel5n. my old, baby playmate at home. There's really no one like the first friend, you know.- Grace end T are devoted, too. Inseparable companion with whom they whisper secrets and in whom they con fide all their childish troubles to the ex clusion of everyone else. Then, as young girls, they conceive, violent attachments "crushes." as the college girl would call them which, in nine cases out 'if ten. are short lived and etid unpleasantly. Other girls rather than put tip with tho exactions of a too devoted chum, think that they must avoid girl friendships al together. Of course, these girls miss one of the greatest pleasures and helps of their whole life and sooner or later, as they grow older, discover what they have lost. But thoufth there are no written laws, no thou-shaits and thou-shalt-nots to lead the young girl into the right road in regard to girl friendships and their mak ing, there are some pretty reasonable rules to be observed in this re.spect. The foundation of all friendship girl hood and otherwise lies in generosity. Therefore, the first rul ifc, don't be critical. Advice from friends Is often welcome; but criticism never is. So, when a girl feels that for some reason or other either because her own or her friend's point of viw has changed she and the dear girl friend are no longer really in sympathy with each other, the intimacy had bet be given up. A certain girl friendship once dissolvf-d in tears and hot words because one of the partners de veloped a taste for mahogany, whereas the other saw good only in oM Knglish . oak. Eut this sort of difference can eas ily be adjusted in most cases, and ought really to add to tho strength, of the friendship, for surely the exchange of opinion and point of view is one of the greatest pleasures friends can have. So much for generosity of spirit: gen erosity with one's worldly possessions is als:" a part of f riendship. Of course, it Is a man's part to give flowers and bon bons. But let the girl who con afford it be ever witling to lend books and maga zines; let her sometimes take a few flow ers to one girl friend who ia ill. ox a re membrance of her favorite fruit or sweet to the dear old grand mot her of anotbir for all these things go to make life the happier. There is the old saying- that a friend Ln need is a friend, indeed, and this is as true as true can be. Not tha on often needs actual assistance; but the friend who ruiaius. the. same: not only In thought, but in. de-eti. through reverses and chantjv.s, is the true friend. Two UtUe girls grew up together in a small town, the best of chums. Orre of tbnm went to a great city, and now has all tbo good things that money can bring; the other kwt what little she had of thla world's goods, and lives cuietty in her uiil home. Two or ihreo times a year Miss Good Fortune devotee a few days to entertain -ing the chum of her childhood. By care ful manipulation on her part, which seeroa Hke mere coincidence to the v ta rt or. the house is never crowded with a week-end party of her rich friends, or with a formal or dignified reception or dance. This does not mean that there is a lack of fun or pleasure. Instead, there Is the Jolly little reunion of two or threo of their old friends wbo basve come to tha city to live: the1 two girls go for mornfns; drives and shopping trips, to trm tbeateir, and concerts and opera, "When they take, a motor trip, the hostess slips a warm fur coat, on a becoming veil about her guest. She does not try to hide her wealth, but talks of the places she has been and shows her -pretty belongings. She asks for her old friend'a opinions on hooks and pictures, ways of doing her hair, and new frocks. In short, erhe makes her fw.l that throngh. ell tho changes their friendship is still the same. ftSU one of the best things she possesses. There are two other girls on whom; fortune has smiled unequally. In this case Miss Good Fortune, whc Inten tions are the fcest in tho world, but wboss methods are untactrcrl. sends her poor little friend cards to all her at hornet, end once a year an Invitation to a dance Here, clad in a home-made frock: In which she was radiantly happy an hour or ao before at her own dinner table, poor little Miss Old-Friend feria, srad in deed ts, entirely ant of place. "OH, I do wish you knew more of any friend," says her hosteea, -with a per plexed expression, as he seea her old time friend forlornly alona in a corner. 'TH try to got eomn one to tale this dance," And after this effort at though t fulneas, she f tins away, and forgets' all about little Mlsa OM-Vviend. who, it is safe to cay, has bad enough of her friend's hospitality. And after all, it is tha things that make one, girl dear to another that make her dear to a man in courtship days. And it Is generosity, chummi ness and even the touch of diplomacy now and then that a man likes in a woman when courtship days are over and. he is buying her bread and but ter and shoes instead of violets and American beauties. PRUTlfiJNOB 6TANTJTSH. ? niiniiK n. t I F 44 THAT A GUARANTEE is In every pair of 4t THAT GUARANTEES PATENT FINGER-TIFFED SILK GLOVES and means a new pair tree if the " tips wear out before the gloves. "K ATSKE" gloveset no fztore"than theordinary kind. There's a way to ton tbe genuine LOOK IN THE HEM KA YSKH " yewi tram the best silk glove made and the kind that is sold to yon witli A Gnarantee That Guarantees Short anCnoea,30e, Wc,$U. $S-25. $1.50 Long Sflt Glovca, 7Sc$lJXK $1-25. $1.50, $2J JULIUS KAYSKS & CO. Makers, NEW YORK . KAT8BR " glovaa are tho Nsab e 2S year ascperienoa in 6 ilk Qkm making. AH other aflk gloves measured toy 1A.TSER" mandard. The TvA YoER organisation rs toa Jaigast ol rts land. Zf yon find tbe name (