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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (March 20, 1910)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, MARCH 20, 1910. M lllw mjfeM i&fi ft l ! ' ' ' ' ' v Iter Hffialiwiil: w . life -vvW" BY REXE MANSFIELD. I ME. LA MODE is no respecter of history, chronology, nor seasons. In less than a. twelvemonth she has stepped airily out of Kins Dagro bert'a toggery into the cuirass of the Middle Ages and thence Into the courtly costumes of Louis the Fifteenth's time. Now her capricious head has been turned by military regalia and. though the Summer months are approaching:, she is donning the modified uniform of the Russian Cossack, with complete in difference to the fact that it is obvi ously a Winter effect. So the puzzled purveyors to her ladyship's whims have had to skirmish exceedingly to adapt the style to Spring and Summer usage. The result is an infinite variety of bloused and belted garments, but all showing the unmistakable Russian In fluence, even to the trimmings of broderie russe and the buckles and clasps bearing the Russian eagle's head. Conservative buyers in this country, however, 'sound a warning note In the declaration that the Russian models will undoubtedly be favored In the dressier' suits and three-piece costumes, but that the seven-eighths fitting tail ored suits, 26 to 32 Inches in length, will easily hold their own. These will be made with long roll and notched col lars and the left-Bide lap, aproachlng almost to a blazer style when the roll collar Is emphasized. A novelty in these tailored garments is the intro duction of lingerie effects. Pleated German Valenciennes edging the collar and cuffs adds that touch of lacy daintiness that feminizes the most strictly tailored suit. The developments of the Russian blouse effect range from the simplicity of the blouse coat brought into the waist line with a patent leather belt, to the satin coats that are shirred or pleated into belts of gold braid or silk embroidery. It is whispered in the Inner circles of the Parisian modistes that before the end of the Summer the regretfully - relinquished Eton and bolero . will come Into distinct favor again. We had had the long coats for several successive seasons now and the pendulum may naturally enough swing from their length to the abbreviation of the Eton and bolero. The home dressmaker will rejoice at this change, for the simple style of the short coats does not present the difficulties In making nor the expenditure that the longer garments do. But there seems to be a law of com pensation in fashion as In other things. W'hen two yards are subtracted from the coat four yards are added to the skirt. A bas the skimpy, clingy skirt of yesterday. Pleats are back again in every delightful style of frou-frou. The novelty in the season's skirts is, of course, the tunic or half-draped effect over a pleated flounce. The apron tunlo is shown in many of the ready-made models, but since there are no hip seams whatever to allow altera tions, it is necessary to obtain a per fect fit In the beginning, which Is not always an easy matter. The side pleated skirt, which proved so becom ing to most figures, has returned to favor as, has also every variation thereof the plain panel alternating with a pleated one, side pleats alter nating with box pleats, shaped gores confining pleats below the hip line. Serge is undoubtedly the most popu lar fabric for the street suits, the marine blue that was so much worn during the Winter continuing in favor. So It be serge, one can make no mis take In the selection of material for the Spring suit, since every weave from the fine twill serge to the fancy and rough weaves will be used. Novelty cheviots particularly In the black and white, or pepper-and-salt effects, two toned diagonal, basket cloths and mat weaves will be used In the more ex pensive suits. The tendency is toward the soft, rough cloths, including home spuns and worsteds. The pin - stripe serges it Is expected will be much worn, especially those with the hair line stripe of black, from one-half to three-quarters of an inch apart, on a white ground, or the white line On a navy blue ground. Although the three-piece suit In the more elaborate styles will persist, the K. STEPHAN LADIES' TAILOR Removed to 127, Seventh Street Fine Tailored Suits Shirt Waists and Suits Accordion, Side and Sunburst Plaiting Buttons Covered Goods Sponged Mrs. Stephan, Who Is Skilled In Ladies' Tailoring. Assisting silk suit, consisting only of skirt and coat, bids fair to push to the front again as the smart apparel for semi dressy occasions. Tussab and pongee silk are used almost exclusively in these suits, though ribbed and corded effects are also good. Foulards, which grew and grew to such extravagance, in sprawl and color that they lost favor with the discriminating woman, are insinuating themselves into her good graces again by their soft color ings and modest designs. The smaller the pattern the smarter the foulard Is considered to be. Another revival of a once popular silk Is that of the change able or chameleon silk,, which Is to be found in the taffetas and satins. Many of the new suits and coats are lined with this changeable silk. In a con trasting shade. Though the suit coats have all been shortened up into Russian blouse and even Eton lengths, the separate coat for Spring continues to be full length, though often developed In the Russian effects. The straight-cut garments on closely-fitting lines are easily in the lead. Silk coats, of black taffeta, or the natural shades of pongee and tus sah, will be much worn. One model In tussah illustrates a new feature In the combination of a blouse front with a belted effect, without a belt, how ever. The fullness of the blouse front is confined' in three narrow tucks to which is extended the skirt panel, thus forming a sort of low, broad belt. The very long roll collar Is the dis tinguishing feature of the new coats, together with the left side lapping. Sometimes a single button fastens the coat at the waist line, and more than three are never used. The color note for Spring is a sub dued one. Soft, silvery greys, greens with yellow glints in them, natural pongee shades, and all the pastel col orings predominate. In the changeable silks and foulards the tans, grays, rose, violet and green are preferred. The neutral tones of the street costumes are often relieved, however, by a touch of brilliant color at the neck, and the use of contrasting color in some of the new linings makes a subtle color har mony possible. A striking pongee coat having a shawl-shape, collar of orange taffeta, embroidered In the same color, had a lining of coin spotted foulard having black dots on a burnt orange ground. Belted Ef rects Prevail in Gowns. The popularity of the ready-made gown for every day or dress occasions has resulted In a wide selection of these to be found in the shops. They range in price and elaboration from the simple tailored effects' in silks or light-weight wool materials to the din ner gows and evening costumes, swathed In chiffon and a-gllnt with tinsel. The modes seem to have con spired to aid the woman who thriftily "makes things over." Overskirts, draperies, sashes, the use of several different materials on the same gown. WAIST SPECIALS FOR EASTER SELLING $2 and $2.50 Waists $1.45 Dainty Lingerie "Waists in a host of clever designed styles; also some strictly tailored "Waists of lawn, madras and linene.. $5.00 Linen Waists $2.95 Hand Embroidered Linen Waists, in a number of beautiful designs; a wonderful value in tailored "Waists. $25.00 Suits for $14.95 Silk Lined Serge Suits, in the best Spring cuts; reg ular $25.00 values;' all colors. .$14. Do GUMBERT'S CLOAKS AND SUITS sleeves made from net or chiffon or gold cloth what possibilities for the refurnishing of the old directoire gown Or ruffled evening dress, or worn jumper suit these fashions present! The materials favored for the simpler dresses are tussah and foulard silks, wool batistes, voiles and cashmere. The Russian Influences is strongly shown In the Insistence upon a normal waist line, either suggested or en circled with a girdle, or belt of leather, or folds of material, often In a con trasting color. Though it was pre dicted that the vogue of the tunic would be fleeting, many variations of its simpfe outlines are being shown. The most approved style is cut off at the knees and is either of even, round length, or falls in points below the hips. With a short skirt the effect is not always graceful, so that tunlo modes are best employed in the more elaborate costumes. Evening gowns for early Spring are more profusely spangled and beaded and glittering than they were during the Winter. A mere man remarked the 'other day that a woman in fashionable evening dress looked like a streak of lightning and was as audible as a glass factory in an earthquake. But that doesn't matter at all. She has ex hausted the supply of tinsel, eg that now two-toned metal effects are being shown in laces and trimmings. Beads and bugles and cloth of gold and of silver, are found on all the mora elab orate gowns. Ml f"j V If It V yA -yh V BEN OUR NEW DEPARTMENT for READY-TO-WEAR GARMENTS will be devoted specially to garments for LITTLE WOMEN MISSES and GIRLS Our buyer has just returned from New York, where he has made selections at first hands and has secured the very NEWEST in tailored SUITS, COATS, RAINCOATS and WAISTS in sizes usually difficult to find at other stores Our entire third floor isdevoted to this department. ELLING Clothier 334 WASH. ST, Opposite the Owl Drug Store