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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 21, 1909)
g , THE SUNDAY ORKGOXIAX, POKTLAXD, NOVEMBER. 31.-1909. - CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY . -r ii THE ORNAMENTAL SIDE Plain effects in dres are seen on every side, but It is no use to deny that the ornamental drapery holds the first place ill Fashion's favor. Among the ready made garments it is well nigh impossible to find a reasonably priced one of good plain effect. 'But if one growls et the fineries displayed on every side, it can be seen, nevertheless, that the hundred and one ways of trimming offer at least many sood suggestions for the making over of old clothes. Iet us talee the high fancy girdles, the boleros of many sorts, and the vast ef fects alone. Here are a dozen pretty - Idas for-piecing out last year's dress, for putting two materials together, and quite a good half dozen different sorts of trimming. The color schemes appear at first glance eccentric In the extreme, for there are rich, datzling hues with grays as dull as the foundry's smoke; coral or pale blue with violet: green with azure: everything under the sun with brown and black and white. The many tunic effects are equally lib eral in their whispered words to the home sewer, for over a dull gray satin slip a blue sparkled net may be draped, and this, in turn, may show a? gray bor der: while many a giddy overskirt may be of one color and the rest of the dress of quits another. A band bordering, sug gestive of the entredeux. outlines a. .num ber of the tunic, which. If they are not overskirts. are fishwife aprons, or Greek draperies, or effects which more than suggest the old-time polonaise. It would be putting on foolish airs to say that these tunics are not pretty, for they are all stylish and graceful and highly esteemed by tho smart woman. And. after all, it Is this lady's opinion that counts. As to sleeves, a plain a'leve is only seo in a severe tailor dress. All the rest are draped and braided and made in sec tion which fall over lace and other gauzy undersleeves. these giving more ideas, by the way, of how to make over and use up tilings on tiand. The designs shown this week embody sonre of the more popular ideas in dress ornamentation and they have been chosen with an eye to the needs of the woman who must make her own dresses and get thera up with the utmost economy besides. Figure A Here is a house dress with a plain skirt, a Greek tunic, and ai very elaborate girdle. For a dressy house occasion the skirt could be In any deli cately colored ellk, the tunic of thin wool in the ame color, and the bodice of lace. Again, a very plain lace or net waist on hand could be used for the top of this dress, and new veiling eould be bought for all the bottom. The girdle and tunic border would be of the dress material as here, and braid ed with soutache or embroidered; and If there is very little stuff the skirt ould ha patched under the tunic at the sidei without showing. . For the medium figure the bodice deco ration will require three-eighths yard of material 32 Inches wide, with two yards of silk, or four yards of soft ribbon, six inches wide, for the suspenders. Figure B One phase of the modern polonaise la here shown, and no dress model could be prettier or more suitable for a young matron, whose hair, by the way. could be fixed on the evening occa sion as is the model s. I draw attention to this point, as the illustration has been made to show off the style of hair fixing that would go well with such a frock. Silk cashmere or veiling could be used for this dress. But, if something less expensive is needed, the cotton crepes supplied for evening would be admirable, and a plain or flowered ribbon would charmingly form the bordering. The simplicity of the drapery here shown defies worry, for it is possible to cut each half of this tunic in a single piece end use a double row pf stitching for the waist gathering. The plain elbow sleeve with their border finish, are very stvlish. and at a pinch the tassels which finish the ends of the draper could be the cotton ones supplied for .wash cur tains. With any colored cotton crepe these would be acceptable, for with a colored dress the white tassel could be overhung with narrow ribbons in the same shade, and be exceedingly stylish. As the dress stands. It is made or pal- violet veiling with a border of cream canvas worked In dim green. The vest is of cream colored batiste, and no more than 12 varus of single -width goods would be needed for the frock. Figure C Bodice decorations such as .these are much worn, and they are as desirable for new dresses as they are for making over old ones. Every material, from braided velvet THANKSGIVING THERE .is a young wife of my ac quaintance whom I call a perfect daughter-ln-lawrand if you your self are a wife. O reader, you will under stand that I am paying this lady the highest compliment I can pay Ker. For, as you know, as I know, as every woman who has ever married a man with a liv ing father or mother knows, it U not every daughter-in-law who finds the wis dom so to adapt herself to her new' ties that she can make the stranger family for it Is a stranger family feel that she Is truly one of them; feel tnat their joys and sorrows are hers down to the least thing, and that John, the big husband she is so proud of. belongs, all of him, to the good old father and mother, who are so touchingly Jealous sometimes, quite as much as he did when ne was "just so high." " . The pretty young wife I h. ve in mind does all of these things. God bless her. and 1 give her this heartfelt benediction because, with her wisdom and tenderness of heart, she is helping two people, who cannot remain much longer In this world, to go forth from it in peace." Because, in this divinely womanly way. she is bringing Ut her little" children' to respect and cherish above all things the family tie. and to feel that all old gray heads beside the hearth 'are a benediction. Be cause, at last, she is proving herself such a good upholder of the home, and so set ting the best of examples to other wives who mav not be so wise. For. alas . I know another wife who is anvthing but perfect as a daughter-in-law. "This lady took with her marriage rlnc. as you might say. a stand against her husband parents, and ten years of married life have only widened the oreach. She has seen only the faults In the parents-ln-law. faults that are aS much a part of human nature as breath itself and all of which she has herself, and more, too: and so persistently has she guarded her home against the en croachment of the "in-laws." as sti feelj it. tiiat. when the high days and holidays come, her husband stalls away from her and the children he has begotten and sues off. like one bound upon a slnfjjl er rand, to dine with his parents. What has this woman done for mar riage? ?he has emphasized its difficult ;de made It plain to all who look on that it Is hard to live in amity with your jiarents-in-law. What has she done to and cloth to beaded and. spangled net and lace, may be employed for such fixings, and it is quite possible to cut the gown stuff out in this way and edge the orna mentation only with some contrasting trimming. It surely does not take mucli thought to see how prettily and usefully one of these fixings would set off an old party waist, concealing the worn places under the arms and the signs of shabbi ness elsewhere. The rear drawings show how absolutely without intricacy the J j j FIGURE B. foundation plan of each fixing is: and as to the elaboration of tlie completed effect that is entirely a matter of indi vidual taste. Made, as illustrated, of braided and embroidered net with fancy braid edges and ball and tassle fringes, these bodice decorations could be used for several dresses, especially if they are in black or in a blend of rich tints which would go well with anything. Both trimmings could also be worn over high gowns with perfect taste, and less than one and one fourth yards of net or lace would be required for either design for a medium figure. ETIQUETTE FOR SON'S WIFE herself and the joy of high days and holidays? She has prepared with her own hands the hour when she shall be set aside by her own children-ln-law; she has martSe the holiday a curse, and a gloom, and a reproach and a regret, as half the world describes It when it comes. It Is upon .the holidays that the wife who lives apart from her parents-in-law has the chance to prove the graoiousness of her heart and- a good deal of her worth as a wife; and the most blessed of these family days, it seems to me, is Thanksgiving. This feast is primarily one of blood1 ties, and so if the young wife and chil dren have dined with the mother's fam ily last year, let them all dine with the father's this year. Have you ever seen two old people, at Thanksgiving time, sit in their lonely home with wistful silence because the married son or daughter was not there to feast with them, and so make their old lives com plete? If so. spend the last hours before Thanksgiving devising little ways to charm your husband's "old people" . on this day of days. Take them little gifts, pretty compliments dear praise for the way they brought up John or Robert or Billy, and praise almost as sweet for the pumpkin pie, and. the cranberry sauce, and all the rest of the dinner. -.Sit In respectful silence when your husband and the old father are talking wisely (or foolishly) of. Peary, and Cook, and the sky ships, and the num ber of other things you don't know, any thing about, and spend a few minutes seeing how happy your lord, who Is so cross at home sometimes, is in the com pany, of his own old people. Ask the mother-in-law questions as to what Is best for 'the children's health. Con sult her about the new little coat, or the hat. or the tiny set of furs. Make her feel that not only Is she a very important mother still, but she is a grandmother who could not be spared one moment from your children's lives. Do these gentle, homely things and more like unto them things that you would 8o to any old gentleman and old lady you respected. , DO these every day little things whichj are a .part of polite life, and even If there has been a slight cloud- between you and your husband's father or widowed mother It will begin to clear, and if you keep up your good behavior the next time, and OF DRESS Figure D These two sleeves might be dubbed, like the hair, tonic sign, "Before and after using." for the. plain drawings show the sleeve before the ornamenta tion is put on, though the foundation model is proper for any plain sleeve. Tucked chiffon, combined with messa line or -cloth, or crepe de chine and chif fon, with the outer arm trimming of braid of some sort, would be the com bination used by a smart dressmaker for the trimmed sleeve at the left, and the arm covering would be part of an elegant street dress, or else appear in a fine odd waist for a smart tailor gown. The festooned sleeve suggests gayer oc casionsreception and theater bodices, opera waists, dinner frocks and what not. Yet the last sleeve is definitely simpler than the first In point of making, for it is only a plain sleeve of flowered silk draped" with chiffon caught down with large fancy buttons. This gives a splen did idea for renewing the old bodice, for qulte a cheap net could be used for the draperies, and tiny ribbon rosettes could take the place of the more expensive but tons. MARY DEAN. the next, and the next,. the cloud will go at last. . Of course, our parents-in-law are not always perfect. Tliey may be- even actually more contrary than ourselves. FIGURE C. thinking every minute and sometimes showing it hatefully that if John had married Mary Jane Wilson, or some other long ago "sweetheart, they would- have liked it better. But that is ail tne more . reason for our wisdom and patience, all thei more reason .for our perfect behavior on the days that count in family life. We have got to make John see. that he is MORE related to us and to the "children at Thanksgiving than to his beloved old father and mother, by forcing, w ith our good sense and tenderness, these same stranger parents to regard us not as disappoint ing daughters-in-law but as ' dear daughters. We must set the children a good example as to how they must bring up their own future spouses to respect and comfort us later on, for the house divided against itself now is pretty apt to have some wings and stories of the same sort in the future. So, In order that, all our lives as wives and mothers may be' 'as much of a Thanksgiving as is pbsslble as full of the blythe holly and fat turkey that Life allows let us each start the ball roll ing toward this end with this humble Thanksgiving prayer: O Lord, give me the sense to overlook trifles, and help me to love my hus band's father and mother more dearly. Dinner Menus for the Week BY LILIAN TINGLE. -Tuesday. " Vegetable Broth Short Ribs of Beef, Parboiled and Browned Potatoes Mashed Turnips - Celery and Cheese S3lad Fresh Apple Sauce Ginger Cookies Coffee Wednesday. Tomato Bouillon Roman Pie Creamed Carrots Baked Potatoes . I hicory talad Orange P.lce Pudding Coffee Thursday. (Family Thanksgiving Dinner) Oyster Cocktail Celerv Olives Koast Turkey. Chestnut Stuffing . Cranberry. Sauce Brown Sauce Mashed Potatoes - Scalloped Celery and Onions lettuce Salad with Cheese Balls Apple Pie Pumpkin Pie Fruit and Nuts Coffee Bonbons Friday. " " Celery t'onsomme Turkey, Sliced or Minced, in Sweet Potato Border Brown Sauce Cranberry Jelly . . ' Hominy Chicory Salad , Orange Jelly With Cake Coffee ftatnrday. , Rice Soup Baked Fish Potatoes Au Gratin Baked Onions Chestnut Salad Chocolate Pudding with Cream - coffee Sunday. ' Creeam of Celery Soup Roast Leg of Lamb, Currant Jelly Mashed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts Apple. Nut and Raisin Salad Maple Cream Sponse Drops Coffee Monday. .Barley Broth Sliced Lamb, reheated. Brown Sauce 'Mint Grapes Baked Potatoes Creamed Carrots v Celery Salad ' , ' Cranberry Tarts Coffee Exercise for Proper Breathing.' Health. , A German- gymnastic instructor has pointed out the fact tjhat many girls lead ing a sedentary life breathe from the bottom to the top of the lungs. Now, In order to breathe from top to bot tom try this physician's exercises as practised with the "breathing rod." An ordinary broomstock, rubbed smooth and shortened a little, serves for the ap paratus. Take the "down" position by hanging the arms straight down at the sides, hands, with palms inward, grasp ing the stjek. ' m Next raise the rod to the second or "up" position, in this way expanding the chest lengthwise. For the third position pass the rod behind the neck, strongly bending the elbows'. If you find this at first a little difficult, persevere, for by tills act' you will perform a "most Im portant part of- the business of breath ing." You are imitating that natural breather the baby, as he takes his fill of air. ' All Lengths In Sleeves. It is a happy fashion that allows a woman to wear her sleeve at any length. This is true this season. Evidently we are not to have one rule which must not be broken. The full puff to the elbow, finished with a ruffle, seems to be the only sleeve that is not allowable. All other kinds are permitted". The long mosquetaire If in fashion, but it is a trifle second-class even in after noon frocks. It has been modified to a wider shape that does not hug the arm so closely, and has more grace . than the former pipestem. Possibly the preferred sleeve for even ing is the one that is almost straight from shoulder to elbow, is of transparent fabric and usually different from that used in the gown. BEAUTY OF GIRLISH IT was my intention today to tell sim ply of pretty ways to fix the hair at Thanksgiving ways that would not be out of place at the home dinner, and that would make Margaret or Mabel a deal prettier than she was yesterday. But since""-all hair-dressing Involves big ness nowadays, I feel Inclined to lauch my boat of beauty from the grumbling dock. e Oh. me. what false ideas so. many girls FIGURE A. have of hair-dressing in this extravagant and idiotic age! You have seen her, I am sure. the darling, misguided maid who thinks that her hair must go off at the back in a perilous piazza, held up by a cheap . shell slide; the girl who wants puffs, even if they are false and have a moth-eaten look; the poor lamb who thinks she is following the fashions and ' FIGURE D. doesn't know in the least how abnormal and pitiful her head seems to sensible human eyes. I have encountered her hither and yon. at the theater, behind the counter, in the beauty maker's parlor, where she should never have been; and always I have wanted to say, as it was my privilege to say once in a fiction story to a foolish young person, "Honey, does" your moth er khow you do it?" Actually, I have felt like taking those V .1 girls in my arms and crying over them. I have felt like asking them to let me take them home and fix their hair. And once I did ask this of a friend's daughter, an(j well, I was so well snubbed for my pains that I have been wise enough to know" ever since that I can only express my mind with safety upon paper. ' So to begin. Remember, if you are a young girl, -your Thanksgiving coiffure and every other one. also must be suit ed to your years. You must not wear false hair at all, and as few cheap shell pins and slides as Is consistent with keeping your hair up neatly. Then you must remember every day of your life that hair which is dusty or unbrushed. or touched with dandruff, or any other blight, is only made the more unpleasant with a fancy arrangement. The well-dressed head is. first of all. clean; the locks are burnished as if brushed . every night and morning; they smell eweetly as new mown hay. All of which means that the toilet of the hair Itself the shampoo, the night and morn ing brushing, the sunning and airing, the massage, etc., is the foundation of a stylish and becoming coiffure. Dame Fashion is a faulty lady, but untidiness Js not one of her moral defects. You can never be too clean for her. and when It "comes to hair touseled, unkempt, soiled hajr hair foolishly and unsuitably ar ranged she seems to put up this sign over her salon: NO CRIMINALS1 ADMITTED. There vou are. She looks upon badly treated hair as 'a crime. And so do 1. As to pretty . hair arrangements for young girls, they are few and very de finite in their exactions, and If you will only look at any well-dressed (giii. you meet, who is going by with a sensible and equally well-dreased mother, you will see how to do it. How does this girl, as right in all her ways as the other girl is wrong, fix her hair for the little entertainments her mother gives in her own home? If her hair is straight, she must wave it, for 'waving is the fashion. But to build out the widths, and heighths, land depths necessary, she uses cages of in visible wire instead of the rats which are so heating, and which, in the end. caus)! the hair to fail out and look like dead chaff. Or if she has rats they are often quite as unpleasant as the word they are tiny things of real hair, sometimes her own combings; and if she is bent upon ornament she uses simple ribbons, or tinsel bandeaux or gauze scarfs or real buds or leaves or berries. Three coiffure styles she effects one with a middle parting and a wreath of COIFFURES braids about the head, woven sometimes with a gauze or silk scurf: one which seems like the old Psyche knot, with lovely additions, and one which makes her young head look like a sweet, round waved rosebud. A .frame comoletelv round, and with a hole at the rape portion, is used for this last stvle. Tho hair mav he nartpd or combed back en pompadour over tho frame, the end? of the top hair going through the hole one way and those of the lower strands going through it th . other.. This "tie" fastens the cage securely-, and if the ends of tho hair aie not Iwng enoght to make a braid which must go all round the head, they aiv' fastened over with a soft nape puff, a wide folded scarf of ribbon, gauze or tulle going about the head, with a side bow or rosette finish. Completed, this coiffure shows at th" back of the head a large oval bulge. ove which the hair lies with large artificial waving. At the front, sides, and nape of the neck, the locks are pulled loosely in effect a soft' puffing, broken in line at intervals and held in place by the sur rounding bandeaux. The Psyche effect, which is called th.' Grecian, is also made over a frame de signed for the. purpose. This. like that for the Hrpt coiffure, Is of invisible wire, but with a holo in the center, and li covers tho entire back of the head. While the hair is'fiowing the frame is attached tightly with pins. nd the side locks ami bark of the hair, which have first been widely waved, are combed over it and fastened down like a flat bun. Five or six puffs arc then planted with a pointed effect on top of tills, the cm!s of the natural hair being rolled ovrr I" make them. A wide braid completely wreathes) these puffs, a bow or flower.' finishing the wide Psyche effect .'it tie left side. Tho front of the hair i.s part- d directly at the middle of the left esc brow and is pulled out to fall In two loose, deep waves over the forehead. Such a hair arrangement is luxur'nti" and charming in the extreme for th faces that call wear it. Hiid if the hair I not long enough to make the encircling hraid. It in easy enough to have tlri.-; wreath of ribbon or gauze or flower?. In fact, if you have, your hair waved to some extent, well brushed and glossy, even, if there is only a handful you can eke It out on Thanksgiving night in a number of ways. . among other pretty and most suitable ornaments for young girls, don't forget the dazzling red Bin! gulden leaves that Autumn has left you here and there, the red berries, an. I coarse meadow ferns; for all of thwe ars shown in the artificial hair garnish ing? and po are eminently stylish and proper for coiffure purposes. In tho wav of a dressing for tho hair for the locks must shine with mirror brightness to have tho coiffure, look Jui-t right let mo advise this formula: Oil of rosemary, one ounce; oil of almonds, three ounces ; oil of mace, "5 drops. Rub this onlv upon the scalp, and very little of it at that. To wave the hair, use rags, or else an iron never too hot as big as the lower part of the forefinger. KATH BRINK MORTON. What Is Oood? John Boyle O'Reilly. "What Is the real good?" I asked In musing mood. Order said the law court; Knowledge, said the school; Truth, said the wise man; Pleasure, said the fool; Love, said the maiden; Beauty, said the pace; Freedom, said the dreamer; llonie. said the sage; Fame, aaid the soldier; , Kquity. the seer. Spake my heart full sadly. .."The answer is not here.'' Then within my boflom fioftly this I heard: "Each heart holds the secret; Kindness Is tho word." The potosi took recently an experimental cargo of 5-0 steers from Bahla Klanca l'or liiuique. The piioe of meat has rlen ;-o high n Chill and Peru that other similar shipments arc shotly expected. REAL "OLD FASHIONED GARDEN" PERFUME Did you ever wander through an. old fashioned garden in the Spring 1 You probably have fra grant memories of the delightful blend of many odors, of which lilac blossoms put forth the sweetest and most lasting. ED. PINATJD is the only parfumeur who ever suc ceeded in imprisoning the very soul of thelilac his product, called ED. FiNAUD'S LILAC VEGETAL is a world famous French extract, nsed by people of refinement for the handkerchief, atomizer and bath. It is fascinating, lasting and penetrating, yet refined and exquisitely delicate. We want you to have a sample it will prove its sweet value for itself. Will you write to-day to ED. PINAUD'S American offices? (enclose 4 cts. in stamps).' You can buy a 6 oz. bottle from any drug or depart ment store for not more than 75c, if you do not want to wait for the sample. PARFUMERiE ED. PiNAUD DEPT. 26 CO. PINAUO BLOC, NEW YORK How I Keep My Hair -Young and Beautiful Bj Mabel Graham. I know that every woman desires beau tiful hair, and if they will follow my rules they will have as long, soft and fluffy hair as I have. In the first place. I wash my head well once or twice a month wilh a shampoo made as follows: Take half of a lo-cent cake of pure castile soap, shave fine, dissolve thiH in half a pint of water with aid of genUe heat; when, dissolved beat in the yolk of one ogg and juice of one lemon; stir until cold. Rub a little of this into the roots of the hair, and rinse thoroughly with warm wat?r and dry. 1 also use a quinine hair tonic freely, which keeps the scalp clean and the hair in a beauti ful and healthy condition, and is espe cially good for dandruff ami foiling hrtir. I find the host tonic can . be made by mixing a half pint of alcohol with hai; a pint of water and adding one ounce of beta qulnol Miquidi. This makes a quinine hair tonic belter than the high priced imported makes, and a whole pint only costs 05 to 75 cents. I am sure If every .lady will try this recipe they will always have young and beautiful hair, and plenty of it.
