g , THE SUNDAY ORKGOXIAX, POKTLAXD, NOVEMBER. 31.-1909. -
CORRESPONDENCE PAGE OF FASHIONS AND BEAUTY
. -r ii
THE ORNAMENTAL SIDE
Plain effects in dres are seen on every
side, but It is no use to deny that the
ornamental drapery holds the first place
ill Fashion's favor. Among the ready
made garments it is well nigh impossible
to find a reasonably priced one of good
plain effect. 'But if one growls et the
fineries displayed on every side, it can be
seen, nevertheless, that the hundred and
one ways of trimming offer at least many
sood suggestions for the making over of
old clothes.
Iet us talee the high fancy girdles, the
boleros of many sorts, and the vast ef
fects alone. Here are a dozen pretty
- Idas for-piecing out last year's dress,
for putting two materials together, and
quite a good half dozen different sorts of
trimming.
The color schemes appear at first glance
eccentric In the extreme, for there are
rich, datzling hues with grays as dull as
the foundry's smoke; coral or pale blue
with violet: green with azure: everything
under the sun with brown and black and
white.
The many tunic effects are equally lib
eral in their whispered words to the
home sewer, for over a dull gray satin
slip a blue sparkled net may be draped,
and this, in turn, may show a? gray bor
der: while many a giddy overskirt may
be of one color and the rest of the dress
of quits another. A band bordering, sug
gestive of the entredeux. outlines a. .num
ber of the tunic, which. If they are not
overskirts. are fishwife aprons, or Greek
draperies, or effects which more than
suggest the old-time polonaise.
It would be putting on foolish airs to
say that these tunics are not pretty, for
they are all stylish and graceful and
highly esteemed by tho smart woman.
And. after all, it Is this lady's opinion
that counts.
As to sleeves, a plain a'leve is only
seo in a severe tailor dress. All the rest
are draped and braided and made in sec
tion which fall over lace and other
gauzy undersleeves. these giving more
ideas, by the way, of how to make over
and use up tilings on tiand.
The designs shown this week embody
sonre of the more popular ideas in dress
ornamentation and they have been chosen
with an eye to the needs of the woman
who must make her own dresses and get
thera up with the utmost economy besides.
Figure A Here is a house dress with a
plain skirt, a Greek tunic, and ai very
elaborate girdle. For a dressy house
occasion the skirt could be In any deli
cately colored ellk, the tunic of thin wool
in the ame color, and the bodice of lace.
Again, a very plain lace or net waist on
hand could be used for the top of this
dress, and new veiling eould be bought
for all the bottom.
The girdle and tunic border would be
of the dress material as here, and braid
ed with soutache or embroidered; and If
there is very little stuff the skirt ould
ha patched under the tunic at the sidei
without showing. .
For the medium figure the bodice deco
ration will require three-eighths yard of
material 32 Inches wide, with two yards
of silk, or four yards of soft ribbon, six
inches wide, for the suspenders.
Figure B One phase of the modern
polonaise la here shown, and no dress
model could be prettier or more suitable
for a young matron, whose hair, by the
way. could be fixed on the evening occa
sion as is the model s. I draw attention
to this point, as the illustration has been
made to show off the style of hair fixing
that would go well with such a frock.
Silk cashmere or veiling could be used
for this dress. But, if something less
expensive is needed, the cotton crepes
supplied for evening would be admirable,
and a plain or flowered ribbon would
charmingly form the bordering.
The simplicity of the drapery here
shown defies worry, for it is possible to
cut each half of this tunic in a single
piece end use a double row pf stitching
for the waist gathering. The plain elbow
sleeve with their border finish, are very
stvlish. and at a pinch the tassels which
finish the ends of the draper could be
the cotton ones supplied for .wash cur
tains. With any colored cotton crepe
these would be acceptable, for with a
colored dress the white tassel could be
overhung with narrow ribbons in the
same shade, and be exceedingly stylish.
As the dress stands. It is made or
pal- violet veiling with a border of cream
canvas worked In dim green. The vest
is of cream colored batiste, and no more
than 12 varus of single -width goods
would be needed for the frock.
Figure C Bodice decorations such as
.these are much worn, and they are as
desirable for new dresses as they are for
making over old ones.
Every material, from braided velvet
THANKSGIVING
THERE .is a young wife of my ac
quaintance whom I call a perfect
daughter-ln-lawrand if you your
self are a wife. O reader, you will under
stand that I am paying this lady the
highest compliment I can pay Ker. For,
as you know, as I know, as every woman
who has ever married a man with a liv
ing father or mother knows, it U not
every daughter-in-law who finds the wis
dom so to adapt herself to her new' ties
that she can make the stranger family
for it Is a stranger family feel that she
Is truly one of them; feel tnat their joys
and sorrows are hers down to the least
thing, and that John, the big husband she
is so proud of. belongs, all of him, to
the good old father and mother, who are
so touchingly Jealous sometimes, quite as
much as he did when ne was "just so
high." " .
The pretty young wife I h. ve in mind
does all of these things. God bless her.
and 1 give her this heartfelt benediction
because, with her wisdom and tenderness
of heart, she is helping two people, who
cannot remain much longer In this world,
to go forth from it in peace." Because,
in this divinely womanly way. she is
bringing Ut her little" children' to respect
and cherish above all things the family
tie. and to feel that all old gray heads
beside the hearth 'are a benediction. Be
cause, at last, she is proving herself such
a good upholder of the home, and so set
ting the best of examples to other wives
who mav not be so wise.
For. alas . I know another wife who is
anvthing but perfect as a daughter-in-law.
"This lady took with her marriage
rlnc. as you might say. a stand against
her husband parents, and ten years of
married life have only widened the
oreach. She has seen only the faults In
the parents-ln-law. faults that are aS
much a part of human nature as breath
itself and all of which she has herself,
and more, too: and so persistently has
she guarded her home against the en
croachment of the "in-laws." as sti feelj
it. tiiat. when the high days and holidays
come, her husband stalls away from her
and the children he has begotten and
sues off. like one bound upon a slnfjjl er
rand, to dine with his parents.
What has this woman done for mar
riage? ?he has emphasized its difficult
;de made It plain to all who look on
that it Is hard to live in amity with your
jiarents-in-law. What has she done to
and cloth to beaded and. spangled net and
lace, may be employed for such fixings,
and it is quite possible to cut the gown
stuff out in this way and edge the orna
mentation only with some contrasting
trimming. It surely does not take mucli
thought to see how prettily and usefully
one of these fixings would set off an old
party waist, concealing the worn places
under the arms and the signs of shabbi
ness elsewhere. The rear drawings show
how absolutely without intricacy the
J j
j FIGURE B.
foundation plan of each fixing is: and
as to the elaboration of tlie completed
effect that is entirely a matter of indi
vidual taste.
Made, as illustrated, of braided and
embroidered net with fancy braid edges
and ball and tassle fringes, these bodice
decorations could be used for several
dresses, especially if they are in black or
in a blend of rich tints which would
go well with anything. Both trimmings
could also be worn over high gowns with
perfect taste, and less than one and one
fourth yards of net or lace would be
required for either design for a medium
figure.
ETIQUETTE FOR SON'S WIFE
herself and the joy of high days and
holidays? She has prepared with her
own hands the hour when she shall be
set aside by her own children-ln-law;
she has martSe the holiday a curse, and a
gloom, and a reproach and a regret, as
half the world describes It when it comes.
It Is upon .the holidays that the wife
who lives apart from her parents-in-law
has the chance to prove the
graoiousness of her heart and- a good
deal of her worth as a wife; and the
most blessed of these family days, it
seems to me, is Thanksgiving.
This feast is primarily one of blood1
ties, and so if the young wife and chil
dren have dined with the mother's fam
ily last year, let them all dine with the
father's this year. Have you ever seen
two old people, at Thanksgiving time,
sit in their lonely home with wistful
silence because the married son or
daughter was not there to feast with
them, and so make their old lives com
plete? If so. spend the last hours
before Thanksgiving devising little
ways to charm your husband's "old
people" . on this day of days. Take
them little gifts, pretty compliments
dear praise for the way they brought
up John or Robert or Billy, and praise
almost as sweet for the pumpkin pie,
and. the cranberry sauce, and all the
rest of the dinner.
-.Sit In respectful silence when your
husband and the old father are talking
wisely (or foolishly) of. Peary, and
Cook, and the sky ships, and the num
ber of other things you don't know, any
thing about, and spend a few minutes
seeing how happy your lord, who Is so
cross at home sometimes, is in the com
pany, of his own old people. Ask the
mother-in-law questions as to what Is
best for 'the children's health. Con
sult her about the new little coat, or
the hat. or the tiny set of furs. Make
her feel that not only Is she a very
important mother still, but she is a
grandmother who could not be spared
one moment from your children's lives.
Do these gentle, homely things and
more like unto them things that you
would 8o to any old gentleman and old
lady you respected. , DO these every
day little things whichj are a .part of
polite life, and even If there has been
a slight cloud- between you and your
husband's father or widowed mother It
will begin to clear, and if you keep up
your good behavior the next time, and
OF DRESS
Figure D These two sleeves might be
dubbed, like the hair, tonic sign, "Before
and after using." for the. plain drawings
show the sleeve before the ornamenta
tion is put on, though the foundation
model is proper for any plain sleeve.
Tucked chiffon, combined with messa
line or -cloth, or crepe de chine and chif
fon, with the outer arm trimming of
braid of some sort, would be the com
bination used by a smart dressmaker for
the trimmed sleeve at the left, and the
arm covering would be part of an elegant
street dress, or else appear in a fine odd
waist for a smart tailor gown.
The festooned sleeve suggests gayer oc
casionsreception and theater bodices,
opera waists, dinner frocks and what not.
Yet the last sleeve is definitely simpler
than the first In point of making, for it
is only a plain sleeve of flowered silk
draped" with chiffon caught down with
large fancy buttons. This gives a splen
did idea for renewing the old bodice, for
qulte a cheap net could be used for the
draperies, and tiny ribbon rosettes could
take the place of the more expensive but
tons. MARY DEAN.
the next, and the next,. the cloud will
go at last.
. Of course, our parents-in-law are not
always perfect. Tliey may be- even
actually more contrary than ourselves.
FIGURE C.
thinking every minute and sometimes
showing it hatefully that if John had
married Mary Jane Wilson, or some
other long ago "sweetheart, they would-
have liked it better. But that is ail tne
more . reason for our wisdom and
patience, all thei more reason .for our
perfect behavior on the days that count
in family life. We have got to make
John see. that he is MORE related to us
and to the "children at Thanksgiving
than to his beloved old father and
mother, by forcing, w ith our good sense
and tenderness, these same stranger
parents to regard us not as disappoint
ing daughters-in-law but as ' dear
daughters. We must set the children a
good example as to how they must
bring up their own future spouses to
respect and comfort us later on, for the
house divided against itself now is
pretty apt to have some wings and
stories of the same sort in the future.
So, In order that, all our lives as wives
and mothers may be' 'as much of a
Thanksgiving as is pbsslble as full of
the blythe holly and fat turkey that Life
allows let us each start the ball roll
ing toward this end with this humble
Thanksgiving prayer:
O Lord, give me the sense to overlook
trifles, and help me to love my hus
band's father and mother more dearly.
Dinner Menus
for the Week
BY LILIAN TINGLE. -Tuesday.
"
Vegetable Broth
Short Ribs of Beef, Parboiled and Browned
Potatoes Mashed Turnips
- Celery and Cheese S3lad
Fresh Apple Sauce Ginger Cookies
Coffee
Wednesday.
Tomato Bouillon
Roman Pie Creamed Carrots
Baked Potatoes
. I hicory talad
Orange P.lce Pudding
Coffee
Thursday.
(Family Thanksgiving Dinner)
Oyster Cocktail
Celerv Olives
Koast Turkey. Chestnut Stuffing .
Cranberry. Sauce Brown Sauce
Mashed Potatoes -
Scalloped Celery and Onions
lettuce Salad with Cheese Balls
Apple Pie Pumpkin Pie
Fruit and Nuts Coffee Bonbons
Friday. " "
Celery t'onsomme
Turkey, Sliced or Minced, in Sweet
Potato Border
Brown Sauce
Cranberry Jelly .
. ' Hominy
Chicory Salad ,
Orange Jelly With Cake
Coffee
ftatnrday. ,
Rice Soup
Baked Fish
Potatoes Au Gratin
Baked Onions
Chestnut Salad
Chocolate Pudding with Cream
- coffee
Sunday. '
Creeam of Celery Soup
Roast Leg of Lamb, Currant Jelly
Mashed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts
Apple. Nut and Raisin Salad
Maple Cream Sponse Drops
Coffee
Monday.
.Barley Broth
Sliced Lamb, reheated. Brown Sauce
'Mint Grapes Baked Potatoes
Creamed Carrots
v Celery Salad ' , '
Cranberry Tarts
Coffee
Exercise for Proper Breathing.'
Health.
, A German- gymnastic instructor has
pointed out the fact tjhat many girls lead
ing a sedentary life breathe from the
bottom to the top of the lungs. Now,
In order to breathe from top to bot
tom try this physician's exercises as
practised with the "breathing rod." An
ordinary broomstock, rubbed smooth and
shortened a little, serves for the ap
paratus. Take the "down" position by
hanging the arms straight down at the
sides, hands, with palms inward, grasp
ing the stjek. ' m
Next raise the rod to the second or
"up" position, in this way expanding the
chest lengthwise. For the third position
pass the rod behind the neck, strongly
bending the elbows'. If you find this at
first a little difficult, persevere, for by
tills act' you will perform a "most Im
portant part of- the business of breath
ing." You are imitating that natural
breather the baby, as he takes his fill of
air. '
All Lengths In Sleeves.
It is a happy fashion that allows a
woman to wear her sleeve at any length.
This is true this season. Evidently we
are not to have one rule which must
not be broken.
The full puff to the elbow, finished with
a ruffle, seems to be the only sleeve that
is not allowable. All other kinds are
permitted".
The long mosquetaire If in fashion, but
it is a trifle second-class even in after
noon frocks. It has been modified to a
wider shape that does not hug the arm
so closely, and has more grace . than
the former pipestem.
Possibly the preferred sleeve for even
ing is the one that is almost straight
from shoulder to elbow, is of transparent
fabric and usually different from that
used in the gown.
BEAUTY OF GIRLISH
IT was my intention today to tell sim
ply of pretty ways to fix the hair at
Thanksgiving ways that would not be
out of place at the home dinner, and
that would make Margaret or Mabel a
deal prettier than she was yesterday.
But since""-all hair-dressing Involves big
ness nowadays, I feel Inclined to lauch
my boat of beauty from the grumbling
dock. e
Oh. me. what false ideas so. many girls
FIGURE A.
have of hair-dressing in this extravagant
and idiotic age! You have seen her, I am
sure. the darling, misguided maid who
thinks that her hair must go off at the
back in a perilous piazza, held up by a
cheap . shell slide; the girl who wants
puffs, even if they are false and have
a moth-eaten look; the poor lamb who
thinks she is following the fashions and
' FIGURE D.
doesn't know in the least how abnormal
and pitiful her head seems to sensible
human eyes.
I have encountered her hither and yon.
at the theater, behind the counter, in the
beauty maker's parlor, where she should
never have been; and always I have
wanted to say, as it was my privilege to
say once in a fiction story to a foolish
young person, "Honey, does" your moth
er khow you do it?"
Actually, I have felt like taking those
V
.1
girls in my arms and crying over them.
I have felt like asking them to let me
take them home and fix their hair. And
once I did ask this of a friend's daughter,
an(j well, I was so well snubbed for my
pains that I have been wise enough to
know" ever since that I can only express
my mind with safety upon paper. '
So to begin. Remember, if you are a
young girl, -your Thanksgiving coiffure
and every other one. also must be suit
ed to your years. You must not wear
false hair at all, and as few cheap shell
pins and slides as Is consistent with
keeping your hair up neatly. Then you
must remember every day of your life
that hair which is dusty or unbrushed.
or touched with dandruff, or any other
blight, is only made the more unpleasant
with a fancy arrangement.
The well-dressed head is. first of all.
clean; the locks are burnished as if
brushed . every night and morning; they
smell eweetly as new mown hay. All
of which means that the toilet of the hair
Itself the shampoo, the night and morn
ing brushing, the sunning and airing, the
massage, etc., is the foundation of a
stylish and becoming coiffure. Dame
Fashion is a faulty lady, but untidiness
Js not one of her moral defects. You can
never be too clean for her. and when It
"comes to hair touseled, unkempt, soiled
hajr hair foolishly and unsuitably ar
ranged she seems to put up this sign
over her salon:
NO CRIMINALS1 ADMITTED.
There vou are. She looks upon badly
treated hair as 'a crime. And so do 1.
As to pretty . hair arrangements for
young girls, they are few and very de
finite in their exactions, and If you will
only look at any well-dressed (giii. you
meet, who is going by with a sensible
and equally well-dreased mother, you will
see how to do it.
How does this girl, as right in all her
ways as the other girl is wrong, fix her
hair for the little entertainments her
mother gives in her own home?
If her hair is straight, she must wave
it, for 'waving is the fashion. But to
build out the widths, and heighths, land
depths necessary, she uses cages of in
visible wire instead of the rats which are
so heating, and which, in the end. caus)!
the hair to fail out and look like dead
chaff. Or if she has rats they are often
quite as unpleasant as the word they
are tiny things of real hair, sometimes
her own combings; and if she is bent
upon ornament she uses simple ribbons,
or tinsel bandeaux or gauze scarfs or
real buds or leaves or berries.
Three coiffure styles she effects one
with a middle parting and a wreath of
COIFFURES
braids about the head, woven sometimes
with a gauze or silk scurf: one which
seems like the old Psyche knot, with
lovely additions, and one which makes
her young head look like a sweet, round
waved rosebud.
A .frame comoletelv round, and with a
hole at the rape portion, is used for this
last stvle. Tho hair mav he nartpd or
combed back en pompadour over tho
frame, the end? of the top hair going
through the hole one way and those of
the lower strands going through it th .
other.. This "tie" fastens the cage securely-,
and if the ends of tho hair aie
not Iwng enoght to make a braid which
must go all round the head, they aiv'
fastened over with a soft nape puff, a
wide folded scarf of ribbon, gauze or
tulle going about the head, with a side
bow or rosette finish.
Completed, this coiffure shows at th"
back of the head a large oval bulge. ove
which the hair lies with large artificial
waving. At the front, sides, and nape of
the neck, the locks are pulled loosely in
effect a soft' puffing, broken in line at
intervals and held in place by the sur
rounding bandeaux.
The Psyche effect, which is called th.'
Grecian, is also made over a frame de
signed for the. purpose. This. like that
for the Hrpt coiffure, Is of invisible wire,
but with a holo in the center, and li
covers tho entire back of the head. While
the hair is'fiowing the frame is attached
tightly with pins. nd the side locks ami
bark of the hair, which have first been
widely waved, are combed over it and
fastened down like a flat bun.
Five or six puffs arc then planted with
a pointed effect on top of tills, the cm!s
of the natural hair being rolled ovrr I"
make them. A wide braid completely
wreathes) these puffs, a bow or flower.'
finishing the wide Psyche effect .'it tie
left side. Tho front of the hair i.s part- d
directly at the middle of the left esc
brow and is pulled out to fall In two
loose, deep waves over the forehead.
Such a hair arrangement is luxur'nti"
and charming in the extreme for th
faces that call wear it. Hiid if the hair I
not long enough to make the encircling
hraid. It in easy enough to have tlri.-;
wreath of ribbon or gauze or flower?.
In fact, if you have, your hair waved to
some extent, well brushed and glossy,
even, if there is only a handful you can
eke It out on Thanksgiving night in a
number of ways. . among other pretty
and most suitable ornaments for young
girls, don't forget the dazzling red Bin!
gulden leaves that Autumn has left you
here and there, the red berries, an. I
coarse meadow ferns; for all of thwe
ars shown in the artificial hair garnish
ing? and po are eminently stylish and
proper for coiffure purposes.
In tho wav of a dressing for tho hair
for the locks must shine with mirror
brightness to have tho coiffure, look Jui-t
right let mo advise this formula:
Oil of rosemary, one ounce; oil of
almonds, three ounces ; oil of mace, "5
drops.
Rub this onlv upon the scalp, and very
little of it at that. To wave the hair,
use rags, or else an iron never too hot
as big as the lower part of the forefinger.
KATH BRINK MORTON.
What Is Oood?
John Boyle O'Reilly.
"What Is the real good?"
I asked In musing mood.
Order said the law court;
Knowledge, said the school;
Truth, said the wise man;
Pleasure, said the fool;
Love, said the maiden;
Beauty, said the pace;
Freedom, said the dreamer;
llonie. said the sage;
Fame, aaid the soldier; ,
Kquity. the seer.
Spake my heart full sadly.
.."The answer is not here.''
Then within my boflom
fioftly this I heard:
"Each heart holds the secret;
Kindness Is tho word."
The potosi took recently an experimental
cargo of 5-0 steers from Bahla Klanca l'or
liiuique. The piioe of meat has rlen ;-o
high n Chill and Peru that other similar
shipments arc shotly expected.
REAL "OLD FASHIONED
GARDEN" PERFUME
Did you ever wander through
an. old fashioned garden in the
Spring 1 You probably have fra
grant memories of the delightful
blend of many odors, of which lilac
blossoms put forth the sweetest
and most lasting. ED. PINATJD is
the only parfumeur who ever suc
ceeded in imprisoning the very
soul of thelilac his product, called
ED. FiNAUD'S LILAC VEGETAL
is a world famous French extract,
nsed by people of refinement for
the handkerchief, atomizer and
bath. It is fascinating, lasting
and penetrating, yet refined and
exquisitely delicate. We want you
to have a sample it will prove its
sweet value for itself. Will you
write to-day to ED. PINAUD'S
American offices? (enclose 4 cts.
in stamps).' You can buy a 6 oz.
bottle from any drug or depart
ment store for not more than 75c,
if you do not want to wait for the
sample.
PARFUMERiE ED. PiNAUD
DEPT. 26
CO. PINAUO BLOC, NEW YORK
How I Keep My Hair
-Young and Beautiful
Bj Mabel Graham.
I know that every woman desires beau
tiful hair, and if they will follow my
rules they will have as long, soft and
fluffy hair as I have. In the first place.
I wash my head well once or twice a
month wilh a shampoo made as follows:
Take half of a lo-cent cake of pure
castile soap, shave fine, dissolve thiH in
half a pint of water with aid of genUe
heat; when, dissolved beat in the yolk
of one ogg and juice of one lemon; stir
until cold. Rub a little of this into the
roots of the hair, and rinse thoroughly
with warm wat?r and dry. 1 also use
a quinine hair tonic freely, which keeps
the scalp clean and the hair in a beauti
ful and healthy condition, and is espe
cially good for dandruff ami foiling hrtir.
I find the host tonic can . be made by
mixing a half pint of alcohol with hai;
a pint of water and adding one ounce
of beta qulnol Miquidi. This makes a
quinine hair tonic belter than the high
priced imported makes, and a whole pint
only costs 05 to 75 cents. I am sure If
every .lady will try this recipe they will
always have young and beautiful hair,
and plenty of it.