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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Aug. 1, 1909)
0 - -- i naps ims bimpie puiueut: jui icui,iitt . . Renewals for Little Wardrobes THIS la the moment when the ward robes of children hard on their cloth ing begin to show signs of wear and tear, some useful little garment or other, which Is outgrown, faded or torn needing to be renewed. Boys are - easily enough supplied off hand, but the mother proud of her little daughter, who can sew well and knows 11 of the child's points, prefers generally to make the needed thing herself, knowing ht tha costume will very likely be more becoming and cheaper to boot than the ready-made gown. These sifted and tender mothers, who so beautifully give all their patience and love to the little seams, must find inemeeives ew11dered bv the sea of dainty wasn lex tures spread everywhere; but the wise ' ones are those who make up their minds wrth the first throb of pleasure and seek no further, for the initial thump which tells you that a thine is lovely la the one to go by. The tinted cotton textures hav never so charmingly suited little wearers, for fnlnni are extremely delicate and tne pat terns offered for children almost as small as those ueed for doll babies. Narrow stripes, tiny checks, diamonds, spots ana minute rosebuds appear in self-colored ginghams, the pattern In a darker shade, or In a raised silk figure, and such ma terials going prettily with Hamburg em broideries or with Torchon laces. Thin white lawn, trimmed with a suitable edg ing, tucks and little headings. Is the pre ferred material as long as bummer lasts for the frocks of the smaller girls: and while exquisite and all but priceless Is the finer hand-made shapes, such dresses may be both effective and Inexpensive. As the Summer advances, too. short lengths In all wash materials become greatly re duced, and since trimming likewise fall In price, there seems really no excuse why girl children, at least, may not be eter nally fresh and sweet. , So In looking for materials for the sec ond Summer supply, remember that any thing in white is suitable and that tinted things must be in a delicate tone and show small patterns. For the rest, every half-yard or yard of fine white may be put to account, for dotted mueiin ana Swiss make charming berthas and In sertions for colored cottons of the finer sort, and when It comes to the prac tical frock a material in one tone may be trimmed with a plaid or stripe In anv color. The models pictured today give some pretty and smart Ideas for girls from 4 to 10. All are especially suited to wash Summer dresses, but made in warmer textures the styles could very well do for Autumn and 'Winter, for. very properly, children's fashions do not change greatly from season to season. Klgiire A Illustrates a method for the use of three different kinds of ging ham, figured, plain and striped. The ,-pen neck and short sleeves make the model a boon for hot weather, and certainly nothing more sweetly child like could offer Itself for a girl of . Here the comblnationls blue and white gingham, but the dress could very well be all In one tone, and any material which admits of such a tailored finish be used. Ohambray and rep suiting fcticgest themselves for practical use, while a wash pongee In white or tan, with band embroidery on the hands. would make a most serviceable and handsome get-up. Kor the s-year size there will be required three and five-eighths yards of gingham or pongee 24 inches wide. with five-eighths of a yard of a con trasting cotton. if the mother has a bit of black and white stripe left over from a dress of her own. she could use it as Illustrated on a buff, blue or pink gingham dress, (or black is still a smart note and is often seen on children's wear. Kigure B Linen In a soft shade of old rose, with embroidery executed In white mercerized thread, makes this Attractive and serviceable little frock, which would have a slimming tendency for a too pudgy child. There Is the new princess effect at the front and buck, while the flare of the plaited kirt gives comfort to little legs and tiie properly childish note. Later the same model would be an excellent one for Autumn and Winter materials, the hlch neck and long sleeves offering much comfort for school wear and re lief for the mother who is forever wor rying about a clean guimpe. But If liked. Dutch neck and short sleeves are possible with the cut, and this In many materials would be much more suit able for further hot weather use. For the 8-year-old size there will be required four and three-quarter yards of material 24 Inches wide, or two and seven-eighths In 44-Inch width. Figure C New models In Jumper dresses are seen every day, but few have the dainty prettlness displayed by this design. The little skirt is made with two flounces sewed to a founda tion, and the suspender blouse opens back and front to the waist, which is girdled prettily with ribbon. As Illus trated, the dress is made of embroidery flouncing, and it suits all the narrowly it.- - n fiviira Tt fnr here Is something particularly adapted to the thin white materials, tne iiny inns tuL-a anri Insertions reOUlred bV till t,n,lap oo-a Flouncing rnuM also form the skirt, but It would be sweeter with a narrow frill as here: and though tn long sleeved cut is very servlceabh FIGURE C. bordered materials, muslins, veilings, etc. Fashioned of embroidered Persian lawn, the dress would be charming for party uses, and could be worn over tinted sup with slippers and hair bows to match. For a girl of 10 five and a half yards of flouncing 13 inches wide, and three quarters of a yard of plain lawn would be needed. The child of 4 could not be better the square neck and short sleeves are far prettier for a dressy frock. For a girl of 4 a remnant of two and one-balf yards of lawn could be used, with frilling and banding tn the same material, or of lace or dotted Swiss. Beautiful ribbons for these little wash, dresses are of a soft crushable sort with a glistening little figure. Such ribbons In- the better qualities wash excellently. MARY DEAN. For Increasing and Reducing the Flesh Ah. common sense, could you with to con spire To chang fair woman and bar ways entire. w-ould we not open wide her foolish eyes And then remold ber to her heart's desire? IT IS a liberty to talk with Omar, of course; but then common sense has so much to do with my present talk, and "Woman young, old and middle-aged does she sot always want to be made over? Porens of letters ask me for creams for reducing and Increasing flesh, and I will begin with natural methods, for not all the balms and philtres the world wots of could bring symmetrical lines without them. The seeds of toler able comeliness, if not actual beauty, are within us all. But we must know bow to water them, bow to treat the first shy buds that appear, how to turn the final frail posies) Into- hardy annuals. Easily digested food, eaten under peace ful conditions no worry, no family nag ging is the too-thin woman's first hope. All cream soups and farinaceous dainties, such as macaroni, spaghetti and sweet starchy puddings, are her right and need: also cereals, bread, butter, starchy vege tables, raw eggs, cocoa and chocolate. Green salad is also required, but only for purposes of digestion, and then only shghtly acid: while much water must be drunk. And whenever a sofa presents It self the thin maid or dame must lie down and say smilingly to her little heart, Now we are going to sleep." Tills is the first part of the regime eat. drink, sleep all you can. -and be as merry as life mill allow. This wisdom absorbed, and put into practice, rub with olive oil after the bath daily and warm pay a llytle money out for massage, and use the following cream on every Inch of skin Nature has given you: Cream for Flesh Making. , Fresh lard ...M..lot grammes AVohol (SO per cant. ...... 20 grammes Kiwnc of roemsry ....... ... 11 drops .Kssence of bercamot. n . . . . 11 drops Add a small piece of gum camphor (powdered) to the lard when trying it out, then strain the lard and beat in the alco hol, and Just before the cream thickens stir in the essence. Proper breathing and an erect carriage are Important factors for the development of the bust, and these are much aided by FIGURE O. a between-meal diet of raw eggs and milk. Olive oil, or oil of sweet almonds, may al ternate with the cream for the bust, but the massage must be very light as all force here is Injurious to the delicate tis sues. To produce firmness at this point. haps this simple pomade for reducing the disfigurement of a too-large bust: Aristol 2 grammes White vaseline "0 Krammes Essence of peppermint 10 drops - After applying this, cover with com presses wet with the following lotion: Alum 2 grammes Acetate of lead 2 grammes Distilled water 400 grammes Cover the compresses with oiled silk and keep them on for 12 hours. The treatment must be continued for several months to effect good results. But as you see, artifice has little to do with the salvation of the fat or the lean. The kingdom of Beauty's paradise must be opened up by the lady's own hand. And as to that Ah. If the Mind may fatness nine aalc!. And banish leanness 'with the whip of pride. Were it not a shame (and prettlness so cheap!) With folk accounted ur!y to abide? KATHKRIXB MORTON. Etiquette for the Proud Mother THERE is a very good saw that might be made the first rule of etiquette for the proud mother of a- promising child: "Be sure you are right, then keep It to yourself." In other .words, be sure your child Is I had been at home, and any one had given me such a little bit of preserve as that, I'd have screamed and left the room. That's the way mother and I always get what we want." Poor hus band and father! It does very little good .for a mother Dinner Menus for the Week BY LILIAN TINGLE. ' Tuesday. Cream of Lettuc Soup. Broiled Halibut Steaks. Sliced Tomatoei. Boiled Potatoes, Buttered. Mixed Vegetable Palad. Feed "Watermelon. Coffee. Wednesday. Broiled Beefsteak. DMmonfco Potatoes. Green Corn. Lttuc and Beets. French Dressing Sliced Peaches in Caka Cups. Coffee. Thursday. Russian Duck with Boiled Rica. String Boans. Corn Fritters. O range Salad. Cup Custards. Coffee. IViday. v - Steamed Clams. Italian Spacetti with Parmesan Cheesa, Stuffed Eggplant. Nasturtium Salad twtth potato). Huckleberry PI a. Coffee. Saturday. Lamb Chops Garnished with Kidney and .Bacon nous. Potatoes. Stewed Cucumber. Ek and Lettuce Salad. Blackberry Pudding. Coffee. Sunday. Teed Cantaloup. Chicken Fricassee. Biscuit Crust. Peas. Creamed Whole Potatoes. , Lettuce and Green Pepper Salad. Pineapple Ice ('ream. Cake. Coffee. Monday. Cream of Corn Soup. GIMet Curry. Rlre. Vegetable Salad, Mayonnaise. Peach Betty. Coffee. Accessories for Children where a natural development Is so neces sary to the looks of a woman. Beauty authorities sometimes suggest painting the breasts over with ' pure elastic cullo dion at night, their declaration being that this supports the relaxed tissues. But as the cullodion forms a sort of varnish, it must be washed off In the morning with warm water and soap. Contrarywise, the too-fat woman Is much benefited by a good dose of worry. 3he is also improved' by consistent fast ing, and if she Is really serious In her intention to become sylph-like, she must avoid the afternoon nap and the Inviting sofa as she would a pair of scorpions, for the rest and sleep so good for her thin alster only helps the fat one to grow more rotund. Daily exercise both long walks and physical culture movements at home are required, and watch and ward must be kept upon the plate which begs for sweets) of any sort. In matters of all food courage must be Spartan-like fly from the table when you feel you have taken just sufficient food to keep life going on a comfortable basis. But though hard at first to do this it will be as easy afterwards as kles your hand, for after all eating Is only a habit, and the stomach can be whipped any time into shape with the single serious thought. "I AM GETTING TOO FAT." A woman of my acquaintance who has become positively beautiful through con sistent dieting, eata only one meal a day, and then it Is more like a bite than the "square thing." In the morning she drinks half a cup of black coffee and eats a small dish of fresh unsugared fruit. At noon less fruit Is allowed and a glass of milk substituted for the coffee; and at comes the cooked meal a modicum of meat, one or two slices of bard, dry toast and some green vegetables, cooked plainly In water or served as a salad. , Any drugs taken internally to promote thinness are likely to be harmful, and though Turaish batbs are splendid for lowering the weight, they may be taken to a point that actually hurts the health. A meager diet without starch or sugar, some hintings of hunger sometimes, warm baths and more exercise than idling, con stitute the stout lady's hope, with perv THE child who Is laden down with dress accesories, be they ever so nretfv. fa not nnlv overdressed hnf is also uncomfortable. For the normal child, and especially on a warm August day, doesn't care a fig for fussy clothes and fixings. But there are many little accessories now shown In the shops that are so attractive, and at the same time so comfortable, that they will certainly appeal as well to the child as to its mother. For the lltfle girl there Is a dazzling array of small parasols. Those made of white pique, edged with a simple scallop and perhaps dotted here and there with a little embroidery, are as pretty as the more elaborate models In flowered and figured silks. The long octagon-shaped, natural-colored wood handles are . the most durable. Chamois and dogskin gloves are still the best choice for cooler weather, even In Summer. But for the very warm days short silk gloves In tan. gray and white. stitched in the same colors and buttoned or clapped, are sold. The little white socks that were shown at the beginning of the season continue In favor for small children. They have borders three or four inches deep of stripes or checks in pink, green, blue, red or brown. For wear with tan shoes there are very attractive socks of brown, with white and brown borders. For the baby, pretty little booties are made of pique, bound with linen tape, and embroidered as much or as liftle as you like. 'They are cool and easily laundered. Belts are shown in such variety that it Is hard to make a choice. There are var nished leather belts In all the lighter shades of tan. salmon, blue and green, shaped and straight: there are suede belts In brown, black and gray; there are stitched black pafent leather belts with black or steel buckles: and there are em broidered linen or pique belts with pearl and metal clasps. Pretty belts to match each costume may be made at home. With an old buckle and a strip of ma terial like the dress, a very attractive FIGURE A. ' It's good form for her to boast wlMly and well which, of course, mentis mod erately from every standpoint. PRUDENCE STANDISH. IDAHO TEACHES FORESTRY New Department Established in University at Moscow. MOSCOW, Idaho, July SI. (Special.) The Forestry Department recently estab lished at the University of Idaho is to be made an important feature of this coming year's work. t Dr. C. H. Shattuck. of Olemson College, South Carolina who has been elected head of this department, has been hold ing the position of professor of forestry and botany in Clemson College and was formerly a member of the faculty of Washburn College. Kansas. He U also a post-graduate student of the Chicago University. At present he is engaged tn doing special research work In connec tion with the well-known Biltroore School of Forestry. His field work Is being done irk the Allegheny Mountains'. A com plete laboratory equipment is beins; planned and the course of study outlined; is said to be adopted with a view of Its practicability. An important feature of the forestry course will be the uses of the section of land on the Coeur d'Alene Indian reser vation, which the university was for tunate in securing at a nominal cost through special act of Congress and an appropriation by the Idaho Legislature last Winter. Much of this section of land has a stand of the finest kind of timbers and it is proposed to establish on this tract a forestry station, to be used In the same sense as an experiment station of the agricultural department of the university. Students will be expected to spend one full semester of the eight required at this station before graduation and also to spend one or more Summer vacations with the United States Forestry Service. A school for rangers will also be es tablished, for the benefit of men who wish to prepare themselves along technical lines for promotions, as well as for those wishing to enter the service of the Government. WILL BE ROYAL DEACONESS FIGURE B. belt may be evolved in a few minutes at the machine. A dainty bag of thi same material, fastened to the belt, will save mrch trouble in keeping track of handkerchiefs. JiASY DEAN. worth talking about, and then keep till. There Is no greater bore In the world than the mother who Is constantly tell ing every one she meets what a won derful boy her Johnny Is and what a bright little thing: Susie is getting to be. Of course, the average mother quite naturally though often not wisely thinks hef own child is the healthiest, happiest, brightest and most attract ive child that ever lived. Neverthe less, It is very bad form for her to tell people that she thlnKs so and why she thinks so. Illustrating her reasons, of course, with stories of this, that or the other "cute" or "cunning:" thing said or done by her paragon of an offspring. In a certain club of young married women there was one fond mother who made herself so unpopular with the other members by not observing the rules of etiquette for proud parents that they almost dreaded ner coming. As soon as she arrived at the club meeting she would make a bee-line for a group of other fond mothers who, however, one day In fourteen, were glad enough to talk about fashions and frills instead of babies and their food, their teething and their cuteness. , "Oh, I must tell you about Freddy; he's so cunning and he's got another tooth." And then would follow a de tailed account of weight, teeth, diges tion, food, sleep and the hundred and one things that go to make up the first two or three years of existence of the well cared for baby. Of course, her listeners, being well bred, strug gled to look pleasant through the deluge of the fond-mother-baby talk, but were you ever really enjoyably en tertained while listening to a parent tell about his or her child? Really, now? Not only Is the mother of this sort gaining an unenviable reputation her self; she . Is also making life harder. Instead of pleasanter, for the child she continually or spasmodically boasts of. The little boy whose mother comes to school with him to tell his teacher what a good boy he is, and how well he has always stood in his classes, and how be this, that and the other thing, runs a pretty fair chance of being heartily disliked by his school-fellows and pitied, at least, by bis teacher. But there is another, and more di rect way, in which the etiquette or lack of it observed by the proud moth er reflects on the ctttld. Children are the greatest mimics in the world, and there is no one whom they are more anxious to be like than" their mother. TTiey watch her in everything and try to do as she does. Is It not a per fectly logical conclusion, therefore, that if her manners are bad, theirs will be, and If her manners are those of good breeding and courtesy, theirs will be, too, beyond peradventure of a doubt? A little girl who was at the house of a friend for luncheon asked for a third serving of a rich preserve at dessert- The hostess gave the child a very small bit of the fruit, fearing the consequences of too much sweet. After luncheon the little guest confided in the small daughter of the house. "Do you kuow, Kitty' she said, "If to urge her children to 'keep their small possessions In order. If she her self is an untidy housewife; to scold them for their slovenly appearance, when she' Is far from neat; to criticise their table manners when her own are careless, and to be shocked at their unkind and thoughtless remarks about other children, when she repeats gos sip about friends and foes alike in their presence. On the other hand, the mother who Is herself well bred, whose manners are refined, and who shuns gossip as a waste of time and mental energy, does not have much difficulty in keeping her children in the way tney should go so far, at least, as manners are con cerned. Now, a few words to the older moth ers. The foregoing suggestions have been addressed to mothers of children still in the formative period of life. But Just as Important, and often more puzzling, is the question of etiquette for the proud mother of the half-grown child. In fact, there is not a much more difficult position imaginable thatt that of the proud and happy mother of a pretty and attractive young daugh ter. To this mother naturally falls the duty of chaperone: and from Spain, with its strict duennas, to India, with Its old gossips, then. Is a strict and long code of etiquette for this person age. But the certain difficulties of this duty which the proud mother must ever guard against are not very hard to point out. Suppose she is asked to chaperone a theater party. First of all, she must see to it that all the young people of the party have as good a time as do her own children. No well-bred mother will try to arrange matters so that her own daughter Is seated between the most attractive young men, and her own son can monopolize the attention of the prettiest girl In the party. At a dance, too, the mother who chaperones must observe the same rules; she must seek out other people's daughters, to see to it that they have partners ga lore, even though this means letting her own daughter take care of her own dance programme. And above everything else, this proud mother must never, never boast about the attention her daughter attracts or receives, especially from eligible young men. After a Summer in Europe a few years ago a mother of this kind used to say to all her own and her daughter's friends:" "Yes, Edith re ceived four proposals In three months this Summer. One was an Italian Count we met at Parma, one was an Ameri can in Berlin, another was a German professor, and the other was a Dane, who crossed -with us, and who's now in the diplomatic service at Washing ton." Poor JEdith suffered the consequences. People who didn't think she was an incorrigible flirt, "thought she was a fibber! There comes a time, however, when the proud mother may have her say and not be criticised. After a life of repression concerning her own opin ions about her extraordinary children; after years of praising other people's sons for their cleverness and ability, and other people's daughters for their good looks and lovely manners, she cer tainly deserves this little respite. Ev ery one likes to hear a proud grand mother boast of her grand children; and because every one taltes the white haired lady's boasting good naturedly, why. she doesn't fracture the rules of etiquette an lota by boasting. In fad. Czarina's Sister to Devote Balance of Life to Charity AVork. BERLIN. July Si. (Special.) The Grand Duchess Elizabeth Deodorovina, sister of the Czarina, and widow of the Czar's uncle, the assassinated Grand Duke Sergius. has just taken up her permanent residence at Moscow in the institute of the "Order of Deaconesses," which she has founded. The deaconesses .bear the same rela tion to the nuns that the parish clerey bear to the monks. They are younsT ladies of the educated classes, who. after special instruction In medicine and re ligion, devote themselves to life and work among the poor, helping their women and children. The order was established on the 25th. anniversary of the first arrival in Russia . of the young Elizabeth of Hesse, grand daughter of the Queen Victoria of Eng land, then a girl of 19. to ba the Dnae of the Grand Duke Serge. The Grand Duchess herself still wears deep mourning for her husband.- killed! four years ao, but the uniform of all the other members of the Order of Dea conesses Is entirely white, and among their teachings is the virtue of cheerfulness. Always Ready to Accommodate. North' Yakima Republic. The new Polk directory shows Chicago) to be a city of 2.600.000. If you don't see What you want in the way of population, just ask the Polk Directory Company for it. . IMG Irritations, scalings and crustings of the skin and scalp, with loss .of hair, of infants, children and adults instantly relieved and speedily cured by warm baths with Cuticura Soap and gentle anointings with Cuticura Ointment. Guaranteed absolutely pure. " Bold thronjrhout ths world. 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