0
- -- i naps ims bimpie puiueut: jui icui,iitt . .
Renewals for Little Wardrobes
THIS la the moment when the ward
robes of children hard on their cloth
ing begin to show signs of wear and
tear, some useful little garment or other,
which Is outgrown, faded or torn needing
to be renewed.
Boys are - easily enough supplied off
hand, but the mother proud of her little
daughter, who can sew well and knows
11 of the child's points, prefers generally
to make the needed thing herself, knowing
ht tha costume will very likely be more
becoming and cheaper to boot than the
ready-made gown.
These sifted and tender mothers, who so
beautifully give all their patience and love
to the little seams, must find inemeeives
ew11dered bv the sea of dainty wasn lex
tures spread everywhere; but the wise
' ones are those who make up their minds
wrth the first throb of pleasure and seek
no further, for the initial thump which
tells you that a thine is lovely la the one
to go by.
The tinted cotton textures hav never
so charmingly suited little wearers, for
fnlnni are extremely delicate and tne pat
terns offered for children almost as small
as those ueed for doll babies. Narrow
stripes, tiny checks, diamonds, spots ana
minute rosebuds appear in self-colored
ginghams, the pattern In a darker shade,
or In a raised silk figure, and such ma
terials going prettily with Hamburg em
broideries or with Torchon laces. Thin
white lawn, trimmed with a suitable edg
ing, tucks and little headings. Is the pre
ferred material as long as bummer lasts
for the frocks of the smaller girls: and
while exquisite and all but priceless Is the
finer hand-made shapes, such dresses may
be both effective and Inexpensive. As
the Summer advances, too. short lengths
In all wash materials become greatly re
duced, and since trimming likewise fall
In price, there seems really no excuse why
girl children, at least, may not be eter
nally fresh and sweet. ,
So In looking for materials for the sec
ond Summer supply, remember that any
thing in white is suitable and that tinted
things must be in a delicate tone and
show small patterns. For the rest, every
half-yard or yard of fine white may be
put to account, for dotted mueiin ana
Swiss make charming berthas and In
sertions for colored cottons of the finer
sort, and when It comes to the prac
tical frock a material in one tone may
be trimmed with a plaid or stripe In
anv color.
The models pictured today give some
pretty and smart Ideas for girls from
4 to 10. All are especially suited to
wash Summer dresses, but made in
warmer textures the styles could very
well do for Autumn and 'Winter, for.
very properly, children's fashions do
not change greatly from season to
season.
Klgiire A Illustrates a method for the
use of three different kinds of ging
ham, figured, plain and striped. The
,-pen neck and short sleeves make the
model a boon for hot weather, and
certainly nothing more sweetly child
like could offer Itself for a girl of .
Here the comblnationls blue and white
gingham, but the dress could very well
be all In one tone, and any material
which admits of such a tailored finish
be used. Ohambray and rep suiting
fcticgest themselves for practical use,
while a wash pongee In white or tan,
with band embroidery on the hands.
would make a most serviceable and
handsome get-up.
Kor the s-year size there will be
required three and five-eighths yards
of gingham or pongee 24 inches wide.
with five-eighths of a yard of a con
trasting cotton.
if the mother has a bit of black and
white stripe left over from a dress of
her own. she could use it as Illustrated
on a buff, blue or pink gingham dress,
(or black is still a smart note and is
often seen on children's wear.
Kigure B Linen In a soft shade of
old rose, with embroidery executed In
white mercerized thread, makes this
Attractive and serviceable little frock,
which would have a slimming tendency
for a too pudgy child. There Is the
new princess effect at the front and
buck, while the flare of the plaited
kirt gives comfort to little legs and
tiie properly childish note. Later the
same model would be an excellent one
for Autumn and Winter materials, the
hlch neck and long sleeves offering
much comfort for school wear and re
lief for the mother who is forever wor
rying about a clean guimpe. But If
liked. Dutch neck and short sleeves are
possible with the cut, and this In many
materials would be much more suit
able for further hot weather use.
For the 8-year-old size there will be
required four and three-quarter yards
of material 24 Inches wide, or two and
seven-eighths In 44-Inch width.
Figure C New models In Jumper
dresses are seen every day, but few
have the dainty prettlness displayed
by this design. The little skirt is made
with two flounces sewed to a founda
tion, and the suspender blouse opens
back and front to the waist, which is
girdled prettily with ribbon. As Illus
trated, the dress is made of embroidery
flouncing, and it suits all the narrowly
it.- - n fiviira Tt fnr here Is
something particularly adapted to the
thin white materials, tne iiny inns
tuL-a anri Insertions reOUlred bV till
t,n,lap oo-a Flouncing rnuM also form
the skirt, but It would be sweeter with
a narrow frill as here: and though tn
long sleeved cut is very servlceabh
FIGURE C.
bordered materials, muslins, veilings,
etc. Fashioned of embroidered Persian
lawn, the dress would be charming
for party uses, and could be worn over
tinted sup with slippers and hair
bows to match.
For a girl of 10 five and a half yards
of flouncing 13 inches wide, and three
quarters of a yard of plain lawn would
be needed.
The child of 4 could not be better
the square neck and short sleeves are
far prettier for a dressy frock.
For a girl of 4 a remnant of two and
one-balf yards of lawn could be used,
with frilling and banding tn the same
material, or of lace or dotted Swiss.
Beautiful ribbons for these little
wash, dresses are of a soft crushable
sort with a glistening little figure. Such
ribbons In- the better qualities wash
excellently. MARY DEAN.
For Increasing and Reducing the Flesh
Ah. common sense, could you with to con
spire To chang fair woman and bar ways
entire.
w-ould we not open wide her foolish eyes
And then remold ber to her heart's
desire?
IT IS a liberty to talk with Omar, of
course; but then common sense has so
much to do with my present talk, and
"Woman young, old and middle-aged
does she sot always want to be made
over?
Porens of letters ask me for creams for
reducing and Increasing flesh, and I
will begin with natural methods,
for not all the balms and philtres the
world wots of could bring symmetrical
lines without them. The seeds of toler
able comeliness, if not actual beauty, are
within us all. But we must know bow to
water them, bow to treat the first shy
buds that appear, how to turn the final
frail posies) Into- hardy annuals.
Easily digested food, eaten under peace
ful conditions no worry, no family nag
ging is the too-thin woman's first hope.
All cream soups and farinaceous dainties,
such as macaroni, spaghetti and sweet
starchy puddings, are her right and need:
also cereals, bread, butter, starchy vege
tables, raw eggs, cocoa and chocolate.
Green salad is also required, but only
for purposes of digestion, and then only
shghtly acid: while much water must be
drunk. And whenever a sofa presents It
self the thin maid or dame must lie down
and say smilingly to her little heart,
Now we are going to sleep."
Tills is the first part of the regime eat.
drink, sleep all you can. -and be as merry
as life mill allow. This wisdom absorbed,
and put into practice, rub with olive oil
after the bath daily and warm pay a
llytle money out for massage, and use the
following cream on every Inch of skin
Nature has given you:
Cream for Flesh Making. ,
Fresh lard ...M..lot grammes
AVohol (SO per cant. ...... 20 grammes
Kiwnc of roemsry ....... ... 11 drops
.Kssence of bercamot. n . . . . 11 drops
Add a small piece of gum camphor
(powdered) to the lard when trying it out,
then strain the lard and beat in the alco
hol, and Just before the cream thickens
stir in the essence.
Proper breathing and an erect carriage
are Important factors for the development
of the bust, and these are much aided by
FIGURE O.
a between-meal diet of raw eggs and milk.
Olive oil, or oil of sweet almonds, may al
ternate with the cream for the bust, but
the massage must be very light as all
force here is Injurious to the delicate tis
sues. To produce firmness at this point.
haps this simple pomade for reducing the
disfigurement of a too-large bust:
Aristol 2 grammes
White vaseline "0 Krammes
Essence of peppermint 10 drops
- After applying this, cover with com
presses wet with the following lotion:
Alum 2 grammes
Acetate of lead 2 grammes
Distilled water 400 grammes
Cover the compresses with oiled silk and
keep them on for 12 hours. The treatment
must be continued for several months to
effect good results.
But as you see, artifice has little to do
with the salvation of the fat or the lean.
The kingdom of Beauty's paradise must
be opened up by the lady's own hand.
And as to that
Ah. If the Mind may fatness nine aalc!.
And banish leanness 'with the whip of pride.
Were it not a shame (and prettlness so
cheap!)
With folk accounted ur!y to abide?
KATHKRIXB MORTON.
Etiquette for the Proud Mother
THERE is a very good saw that
might be made the first rule of
etiquette for the proud mother of
a- promising child: "Be sure you are
right, then keep It to yourself." In
other .words, be sure your child Is
I had been at home, and any one had
given me such a little bit of preserve
as that, I'd have screamed and left the
room. That's the way mother and I
always get what we want." Poor hus
band and father!
It does very little good .for a mother
Dinner Menus
for the Week
BY LILIAN TINGLE.
' Tuesday.
Cream of Lettuc Soup.
Broiled Halibut Steaks. Sliced Tomatoei.
Boiled Potatoes, Buttered.
Mixed Vegetable Palad.
Feed "Watermelon.
Coffee.
Wednesday.
Broiled Beefsteak. DMmonfco Potatoes.
Green Corn.
Lttuc and Beets. French Dressing
Sliced Peaches in Caka Cups.
Coffee.
Thursday.
Russian Duck with Boiled Rica.
String Boans. Corn Fritters.
O range Salad.
Cup Custards.
Coffee.
IViday. v
- Steamed Clams.
Italian Spacetti with Parmesan Cheesa,
Stuffed Eggplant.
Nasturtium Salad twtth potato).
Huckleberry PI a.
Coffee.
Saturday.
Lamb Chops Garnished with Kidney and
.Bacon nous.
Potatoes. Stewed Cucumber.
Ek and Lettuce Salad.
Blackberry Pudding.
Coffee.
Sunday.
Teed Cantaloup.
Chicken Fricassee. Biscuit Crust.
Peas. Creamed Whole Potatoes. ,
Lettuce and Green Pepper Salad.
Pineapple Ice ('ream. Cake.
Coffee.
Monday.
Cream of Corn Soup.
GIMet Curry. Rlre.
Vegetable Salad, Mayonnaise.
Peach Betty.
Coffee.
Accessories for
Children
where a natural development Is so neces
sary to the looks of a woman. Beauty
authorities sometimes suggest painting
the breasts over with ' pure elastic cullo
dion at night, their declaration being that
this supports the relaxed tissues. But as
the cullodion forms a sort of varnish, it
must be washed off In the morning with
warm water and soap.
Contrarywise, the too-fat woman Is
much benefited by a good dose of worry.
3he is also improved' by consistent fast
ing, and if she Is really serious In her
intention to become sylph-like, she must
avoid the afternoon nap and the Inviting
sofa as she would a pair of scorpions,
for the rest and sleep so good for her
thin alster only helps the fat one to grow
more rotund. Daily exercise both long
walks and physical culture movements at
home are required, and watch and ward
must be kept upon the plate which begs
for sweets) of any sort.
In matters of all food courage must be
Spartan-like fly from the table when you
feel you have taken just sufficient food to
keep life going on a comfortable basis.
But though hard at first to do this it will
be as easy afterwards as kles your hand,
for after all eating Is only a habit, and
the stomach can be whipped any time
into shape with the single serious
thought. "I AM GETTING TOO FAT."
A woman of my acquaintance who has
become positively beautiful through con
sistent dieting, eata only one meal a day,
and then it Is more like a bite than the
"square thing." In the morning she
drinks half a cup of black coffee and eats
a small dish of fresh unsugared fruit. At
noon less fruit Is allowed and a glass of
milk substituted for the coffee; and at
comes the cooked meal a modicum of
meat, one or two slices of bard, dry toast
and some green vegetables, cooked plainly
In water or served as a salad.
, Any drugs taken internally to promote
thinness are likely to be harmful, and
though Turaish batbs are splendid for
lowering the weight, they may be taken
to a point that actually hurts the health.
A meager diet without starch or sugar,
some hintings of hunger sometimes, warm
baths and more exercise than idling, con
stitute the stout lady's hope, with perv
THE child who Is laden down with
dress accesories, be they ever so
nretfv. fa not nnlv overdressed hnf
is also uncomfortable. For the normal
child, and especially on a warm August
day, doesn't care a fig for fussy clothes
and fixings. But there are many little
accessories now shown In the shops that
are so attractive, and at the same time
so comfortable, that they will certainly
appeal as well to the child as to its
mother.
For the lltfle girl there Is a dazzling
array of small parasols. Those made of
white pique, edged with a simple scallop
and perhaps dotted here and there with
a little embroidery, are as pretty as the
more elaborate models In flowered and
figured silks. The long octagon-shaped,
natural-colored wood handles are . the
most durable.
Chamois and dogskin gloves are still
the best choice for cooler weather, even
In Summer. But for the very warm days
short silk gloves In tan. gray and white.
stitched in the same colors and buttoned
or clapped, are sold.
The little white socks that were shown
at the beginning of the season continue
In favor for small children. They have
borders three or four inches deep of
stripes or checks in pink, green, blue, red
or brown. For wear with tan shoes there
are very attractive socks of brown, with
white and brown borders. For the baby,
pretty little booties are made of pique,
bound with linen tape, and embroidered
as much or as liftle as you like. 'They
are cool and easily laundered.
Belts are shown in such variety that it
Is hard to make a choice. There are var
nished leather belts In all the lighter
shades of tan. salmon, blue and green,
shaped and straight: there are suede belts
In brown, black and gray; there are
stitched black pafent leather belts with
black or steel buckles: and there are em
broidered linen or pique belts with pearl
and metal clasps. Pretty belts to match
each costume may be made at home.
With an old buckle and a strip of ma
terial like the dress, a very attractive
FIGURE A.
'
It's good form for her to boast wlMly
and well which, of course, mentis mod
erately from every standpoint.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
IDAHO TEACHES FORESTRY
New
Department Established in
University at Moscow.
MOSCOW, Idaho, July SI. (Special.)
The Forestry Department recently estab
lished at the University of Idaho is to
be made an important feature of this
coming year's work. t
Dr. C. H. Shattuck. of Olemson College,
South Carolina who has been elected
head of this department, has been hold
ing the position of professor of forestry
and botany in Clemson College and was
formerly a member of the faculty of
Washburn College. Kansas. He U also
a post-graduate student of the Chicago
University. At present he is engaged tn
doing special research work In connec
tion with the well-known Biltroore School
of Forestry. His field work Is being
done irk the Allegheny Mountains'. A com
plete laboratory equipment is beins;
planned and the course of study outlined;
is said to be adopted with a view of Its
practicability.
An important feature of the forestry
course will be the uses of the section of
land on the Coeur d'Alene Indian reser
vation, which the university was for
tunate in securing at a nominal cost
through special act of Congress and an
appropriation by the Idaho Legislature
last Winter. Much of this section of
land has a stand of the finest kind of
timbers and it is proposed to establish
on this tract a forestry station, to be
used In the same sense as an experiment
station of the agricultural department of
the university.
Students will be expected to spend one
full semester of the eight required at this
station before graduation and also to
spend one or more Summer vacations
with the United States Forestry Service.
A school for rangers will also be es
tablished, for the benefit of men who wish
to prepare themselves along technical
lines for promotions, as well as for those
wishing to enter the service of the Government.
WILL BE ROYAL DEACONESS
FIGURE B.
belt may be evolved in a few minutes
at the machine. A dainty bag of thi
same material, fastened to the belt, will
save mrch trouble in keeping track of
handkerchiefs.
JiASY DEAN.
worth talking about, and then keep
till.
There Is no greater bore In the world
than the mother who Is constantly tell
ing every one she meets what a won
derful boy her Johnny Is and what a
bright little thing: Susie is getting to
be. Of course, the average mother quite
naturally though often not wisely
thinks hef own child is the healthiest,
happiest, brightest and most attract
ive child that ever lived. Neverthe
less, It is very bad form for her to
tell people that she thlnKs so and why
she thinks so. Illustrating her reasons,
of course, with stories of this, that or
the other "cute" or "cunning:" thing
said or done by her paragon of an
offspring.
In a certain club of young married
women there was one fond mother who
made herself so unpopular with the
other members by not observing the
rules of etiquette for proud parents that
they almost dreaded ner coming. As
soon as she arrived at the club meeting
she would make a bee-line for a group
of other fond mothers who, however,
one day In fourteen, were glad enough
to talk about fashions and frills instead
of babies and their food, their teething
and their cuteness. ,
"Oh, I must tell you about Freddy;
he's so cunning and he's got another
tooth." And then would follow a de
tailed account of weight, teeth, diges
tion, food, sleep and the hundred and
one things that go to make up the
first two or three years of existence
of the well cared for baby. Of course,
her listeners, being well bred, strug
gled to look pleasant through the
deluge of the fond-mother-baby talk,
but were you ever really enjoyably en
tertained while listening to a parent
tell about his or her child? Really,
now?
Not only Is the mother of this sort
gaining an unenviable reputation her
self; she . Is also making life harder.
Instead of pleasanter, for the child she
continually or spasmodically boasts of.
The little boy whose mother comes to
school with him to tell his teacher
what a good boy he is, and how well
he has always stood in his classes, and
how be this, that and the other thing,
runs a pretty fair chance of being
heartily disliked by his school-fellows
and pitied, at least, by bis teacher.
But there is another, and more di
rect way, in which the etiquette or
lack of it observed by the proud moth
er reflects on the ctttld. Children are
the greatest mimics in the world, and
there is no one whom they are more
anxious to be like than" their mother.
TTiey watch her in everything and
try to do as she does. Is It not a per
fectly logical conclusion, therefore, that
if her manners are bad, theirs will be,
and If her manners are those of good
breeding and courtesy, theirs will be,
too, beyond peradventure of a doubt?
A little girl who was at the house
of a friend for luncheon asked for a
third serving of a rich preserve at dessert-
The hostess gave the child a
very small bit of the fruit, fearing
the consequences of too much sweet.
After luncheon the little guest confided
in the small daughter of the house.
"Do you kuow, Kitty' she said, "If
to urge her children to 'keep their
small possessions In order. If she her
self is an untidy housewife; to scold
them for their slovenly appearance,
when she' Is far from neat; to criticise
their table manners when her own are
careless, and to be shocked at their
unkind and thoughtless remarks about
other children, when she repeats gos
sip about friends and foes alike in
their presence.
On the other hand, the mother who
Is herself well bred, whose manners are
refined, and who shuns gossip as a
waste of time and mental energy, does
not have much difficulty in keeping her
children in the way tney should go
so far, at least, as manners are con
cerned. Now, a few words to the older moth
ers. The foregoing suggestions have
been addressed to mothers of children
still in the formative period of life.
But Just as Important, and often more
puzzling, is the question of etiquette
for the proud mother of the half-grown
child. In fact, there is not a much
more difficult position imaginable thatt
that of the proud and happy mother
of a pretty and attractive young daugh
ter.
To this mother naturally falls the
duty of chaperone: and from Spain,
with its strict duennas, to India, with
Its old gossips, then. Is a strict and
long code of etiquette for this person
age. But the certain difficulties of this
duty which the proud mother must ever
guard against are not very hard to
point out.
Suppose she is asked to chaperone a
theater party. First of all, she must
see to it that all the young people of
the party have as good a time as do
her own children. No well-bred mother
will try to arrange matters so that
her own daughter Is seated between
the most attractive young men, and her
own son can monopolize the attention
of the prettiest girl In the party. At
a dance, too, the mother who chaperones
must observe the same rules; she must
seek out other people's daughters, to
see to it that they have partners ga
lore, even though this means letting
her own daughter take care of her own
dance programme.
And above everything else, this proud
mother must never, never boast about
the attention her daughter attracts or
receives, especially from eligible young
men. After a Summer in Europe a
few years ago a mother of this kind
used to say to all her own and her
daughter's friends:" "Yes, Edith re
ceived four proposals In three months
this Summer. One was an Italian Count
we met at Parma, one was an Ameri
can in Berlin, another was a German
professor, and the other was a Dane,
who crossed -with us, and who's now
in the diplomatic service at Washing
ton." Poor JEdith suffered the consequences.
People who didn't think she was an
incorrigible flirt, "thought she was a
fibber!
There comes a time, however, when
the proud mother may have her say
and not be criticised. After a life of
repression concerning her own opin
ions about her extraordinary children;
after years of praising other people's
sons for their cleverness and ability,
and other people's daughters for their
good looks and lovely manners, she cer
tainly deserves this little respite. Ev
ery one likes to hear a proud grand
mother boast of her grand children; and
because every one taltes the white
haired lady's boasting good naturedly,
why. she doesn't fracture the rules of
etiquette an lota by boasting. In fad.
Czarina's Sister to Devote Balance
of Life to Charity AVork.
BERLIN. July Si. (Special.) The Grand
Duchess Elizabeth Deodorovina, sister of
the Czarina, and widow of the Czar's
uncle, the assassinated Grand Duke
Sergius. has just taken up her permanent
residence at Moscow in the institute of
the "Order of Deaconesses," which she
has founded.
The deaconesses .bear the same rela
tion to the nuns that the parish clerey
bear to the monks. They are younsT
ladies of the educated classes, who. after
special instruction In medicine and re
ligion, devote themselves to life and work
among the poor, helping their women and
children.
The order was established on the 25th.
anniversary of the first arrival in Russia .
of the young Elizabeth of Hesse, grand
daughter of the Queen Victoria of Eng
land, then a girl of 19. to ba the Dnae
of the Grand Duke Serge.
The Grand Duchess herself still wears
deep mourning for her husband.- killed!
four years ao, but the uniform of all
the other members of the Order of Dea
conesses Is entirely white, and among
their teachings is the virtue of cheerfulness.
Always Ready to Accommodate.
North' Yakima Republic.
The new Polk directory shows Chicago)
to be a city of 2.600.000. If you don't see
What you want in the way of population,
just ask the Polk Directory Company
for it. .
IMG
Irritations, scalings and
crustings of the skin and
scalp, with loss .of hair, of
infants, children and adults
instantly relieved and
speedily cured by warm
baths with Cuticura Soap
and gentle anointings with
Cuticura Ointment.
Guaranteed absolutely pure. "
Bold thronjrhout ths world. Pepots: London. 2?,
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Sole Props.. 135 Columbus Ave., Boston.
rPost-fr. 33-pare book. Riving description,
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