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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 20, 1908)
TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 20, 1903. I!! KKE5rriFHC-Cfc f fASft1H5 & PEA.UTY J , i I Handsome Frocks and Frills for THK Christmas holiday season 1 now running June anil October a close race for popularity In the selection of weihiing dates. This In due partly to the fact that many smart folk now keep their i-ouniry horns open until after the first of the year. spending only Janu air. February and .March In town, and partly to the prfwmf of older college stud 'tits at home during the Christmas vacation. Holiday decoration make a chrming background for wedding parties, the South calls ali'iringly to honeymooners, .-ovittv is at Its l?s:. physically and tem--jjera-ne ntaiiy. at the opening of the mid Winter season. i small wonder that weddtnrs will be plentiful during the n"xt fortnight. Never have style for brides been mora beautiful. The empire and direc- tolre modes work up Into Ideal bridal gowns. The lustrous satins and fabrics of the hour are a delight In themselves and demand little embellishment, while the colorings In directoire broadcloths and aim liar highly polished materials are admirably adapted for going - away frocks. First, the bridal gown itself. It must be of satin this year, ivory white pre ferred. Lace robes are entirely out of the fashion running. Crepe meteor, which la almost as lustrous as satin". Is In demand, but It is more expensive and not much more soft and clinging than the better grades of satin. As to trimming, real lace seems to have suffered an eclipse- For the tall, slen der bride a popular trimming is tulle ruching. row after row of it, very fine and feathery, applied in conventional de signs. Next to this and pre-eminently correct for the shorter, stouter bride is band embroidery In self-tone Ivory floss, which is introduced on the shaped bolero, the pointed long sleeves, the high collars and panels or for outlining the modified sheath skirt. The model for a bridal gown shown herewith Is one which can be made by the home dressmaker. The trained skirt has the so-called sheath opening on the left side, which in the original gown was of tucked chiffon oloth, while the shaped bolero or bib effect and entire skirt were outlined by a design in fine srilk soutache, with embroidered dots for centers- The yoke was outlined with a very fine novelty silk braid, picked out with small seed pearls. Very beautiful bandings ready em broidered and braided can be bought for these satin bridal robes, and some love lv novelty trimmings, such as nets and laces in bandings and galloons, picked out with seed pearls, tiny iridescent beads or wee paillettes, are shown as substitutes for the embroidery- The bride -to-be should be very careful, how ever, to avoid the trimmings spangled with silver or gold, as they destroy the virginal purity of the satin robe. A feature of the bridal gown this sea son which Is worth noting is ttre fact that the odd, long sleeveless coats can be used over the frocx later and make an extra gown for the trousseau. If the yoke is detachable it can be removed, a sleeveless coat of spangled net or lace can be slipped over the shoulders, and one of the Ideal evening gowns of the year results. These coats come in almost every shade of net. white, black, coppery-brown, gold, d- lieate blues, pinks and the richer shades, of blue. red. etc. Sometimes they are both braided and spangied or Inset with lace. In shape they are long, al most invariably with a finish of deep points and tassels or other ornaments. The fad for long mousquetaire sleeves w 1th decollete bodices continues, and a pretty fancy for hair ornaments to go with soft, fluttcry evening frocks Is a enronet of delicate gaitre flowers, such as morning glories, wild roses and other S'ng'e-p-italed blossoms. Toe directoire coat in a slightly modi fied form Is popular for the finish of the going-away costumes, and such a coat Is shown in figure B. The low-hung pock ets. thi short, double-breasted front plec?s. the long skirt, all these suggest the directoiro modes., but the enormous flaring reveres, so trying to the average woman, have been modified to a more quiet and unobtrusive cut. Among the new shades popular for golng-away suits may be mentioned taupe. London smoke, catawba. wistaria and a very rich rasp berry red. The suit must be composed of a princess or empire costume with jnnfrMn or harmonizing coat. And speaking of coats, never have fur coats J been so popular as this season. When a ' f ir coat cannot be considered, then a highly finished cloth is chosen instead, preferably black with a lining of some brilliant hue such as wistaria, flame color, bright blue or emerald green. We have spoken very often In this col umn of the growing popularity of satin finished cashmere, lightweight prunella cloth and other Inexpensive substitutes for satin and directoire broadcloths. Fig tire C shows a most effective develop ment in wistaria-colored cashmere, trimmed with very heavy satin, which 1 Introduced In the eord-and-button gar niture, the three-quarter standing collar. Delicious Home-Made Christmas Candies THE wlbe mother who wants to sava the post-Christmas doctor's bill and yet deprive the children cf nothing" on this happy holiday will make most of her candy at home. She will then be sure that all the ingredi ents are pure and that no poisonous coloring matter has been used. The always popular fudge is nourishing. Eaten "in small quantities, it will never harm the stomach of even a delicate child, so we give two recipes for that particular sweet. Fadore Itrliatht. Mix together In a porcelain saucpan one cup of white sugar and one cup of dark brown sugar, and add to it a quarter of a of molasses and half a cup of rich -cream. In another little pan melt about quarter of a cup of butter, and when melted add it to the other mixture. Bring it all to a boil and keep it boil ing for two or three minutes while you stir it rapidiy. Then add two squares of gratvd chocolate. Boil hard for five minutes more, stirring rapidly at first, and gradually more slowly. Remove from the fire and add a tea spoon and a half of vanilla. Ptir until it becomes thick, pour into buttered pans and set away to cool, marking out in squares before it hardens. Not Vutlmr- Dissolve two squares of chocolate in one cup of milk and add two cups of s-ranulated sugar. Then add a tablespoonful of butter. When the mixluro has cooked so that you an see the bottom of the pan when stirring, remove from the fire and beat tie and outline for the tucker. For a stout woman the frills of satin which outline the vest effect of the bodice should he replaced by a fiat novelty braid. Incidentally, for house frocks, many sleeve novelties are shown, with a wis ji iii FIG. A. BRIDAL ROBE OF DIKECTOIRE SATIN, CHIFFON CLOTH AND SO.K SOUTACHE. tarla-colored cashmere gown, for In stance, the mousquetaire sleeves, or even the elbow sleeves, if such are preferred, may be of rather coarse wistaria-colored net with a lining of mousseline in the same shade and an Interlining of fine silver gauxe. With a catawba cloth, the matching net is. used. Interlined with a coppery or bronze gauze. The metallic gleam through net Is very good indeed. All house gowns and all street gowns for calling, recrptlons. etc.. are made with trains. Kvening frocks in very soft fabrics like net. chiffon cloth, tc. are made with a sweep all the way round. The bride, buying final touches for her trousseau, should knowt That the new umbrella handles are until nearly cold. Add one cup of hick ory nuts, chopped rather fine, and pour tnto buttered pans, and mark out in squares before thoroughly cold. Creole Kisses. Put the whites of three eggs Into a bowl, add half a pound of sugar, and beat until it will stand. This takes nearly 20 minutes. Then add gradually half pound of nuts any kind will do. but pecan nuts are best and finally half teaspoon of va nilla. Drop by spoonfuls on brown pa per not buttered and bake in a me dium oven until they crack open. When they are golden brown, they are done. Ice Cream Caady. In a porcelain lined or agate saucepan boil together, 1 Vi cups of white sugar, three-quarters of a cup of cold water, tablespoon of butter, tablespoon of lemon extract, or Juice of lemon, enough to make that amount and just a pinch of cream tartar. Boil until It becomes hard when dropped into cold water, and will crackle on the side of the cup. Add the flavoring Just when the candy is com ing off tho fire and stir well. Pour off Into buttered tins, and when cool enough to handle, pull until perfectly white. Pull out Into strings about as thick as your thumb and cut in pieces with large scissors. Coeoannt Cream. Buy one large co coanut, and in breaking It open save every bit of its milk. Pour a pound and a half of granulated sugar into a pan with the milk of the nut and heat slowly together until the sugar is melted and then let It simmer for about five minutes. Grate the fresh cocoa- Holiday Brides very long, due to the prevalence, of directoire modes. " That Instead of short flannel skirts, the up-to-date woman wears very full bloomers or knickerbockers, gored nd fitted into a smooth, circular yoke. Thev fasten below the knee with buckles or buttons, and are made of ecru linen, sateen or silk. That a bead bag: of any sort is a splendid Investment and much smarter than anything In gold or silver mesh. The longer or deeper the bag the better. That fur toques with birds of para dise trimming are in vogue. That smart trimming shows soutache alternating with very narrow velvet bands, either cut on the bias or made of narrow ribbon. That the newest white lace for spangled robes for evening and house gowns are of white, with jet motifs and deep, bands of black velvet, say three inches or more, about the foot. MART DEAN. nut and add It slowly. Boil for ten minutes after the cocoanut Is all In, and stir constantly to keep It from sticking to the bottom of the pot and burning. Pour out onto buttered china plates and cut tnto squares. This should then be set into a cool place and left for 48 hours, as it takes about that time to harden. Women's Hats. London Chronicle. The American lecturer who tried to per suade the women in his audience the other day that their own hair was a prettier, not to say less obstructive, sight than their spacious hats, Ignored the warnings of history. No matinee hat of today is so high as the lofty head-dresses worn by Marie Antoinette, which were the despair of poor simple-minded Louis XVI. But when deprived of all ipossibil Ity of being able to see a performance at the opera, he presented his wife with an aigrette of diamonds, in the hope that It might supplant a head-dress 45 inches in height, the Queen promptly had the diamonds incorporated in a ' new head dress which was taller than all Its prede cessors. Apathy in "Woman. It is unquestionably true that one of the greatest obstacles In the woman's path of industrial progress has been her own apathy. She is reproached by the men in- her trade for her lack of Inter est In trade unionism: she is reproached by the philanthropist for her lack of am bition her seeming willingness to remain unskilled and underpaid. - But In this new movement for the irancmse. we have the women who are already in the ranks of the skilled workers, and who have long since proved their capacity for organization taking another great step forward. They have at last learned that their industrial regeneration, can come only through their own efforts and the Importance of this new spirit of in dependence, this enlarging of the work ing woman's sphere of activity to demand a "voice in the laws that regulate her toil." would be. difficult to overestimate. Edith Abbott in Atlantic. Eleventh-Hour Gifts at Little Cost AT TIIE last moment before Christ mas, one is sure to recall a for gotten relative or friend, and cry, "Oh, what can I get at this late day?" The answer is, "Lots of pretty things are new and fetching and not so very expensive either." For instance: A ring of matrix, turquoise or jade (the iatter a good imitation) set in dull gold or silver is a fad among girls. A hatpin of rhlnestones, set in the form of a' cube or pyramid will cost $1.50 and please any girl. For the delicate woman a new smell ing salts bottle made of green glass. Fir. B. Going Away Suit In Wistaria-Colored (loth. about as big round as your thumb, and covered with filagree silver, will cost $1.50. For the house wife a new style in lunch cloth and napkins, with conven tional designs in colors for borders, hemstitched, not fringed, costs $4 up wards. These are made of German linen. A clever imitation silk hose called ingrain, which wears better than silk, comes In all the colors of the season and costs less than a dollar a pair, is Just tho thing for the girl who loves fancy hosiery. For a man's den, a sconce of plaster Paris, colored green and brown to imi tate bronze, is very stunning and costs 50 cents up, according to style. For the girl who loves brass or copper ornaments Jn her room a can dlestick and reflector of Puritan de Sign at 75 cents is pleasing. For the girl who owns much pretty jewelry try a leather Jewel box, with lock and key. These are made like miniature trunks, with tray for rings and the lower part for other orna ments. They cost from $2.50 up, ac cording' to size, and are found in all colors, red, green, royal blue, etc. For the girl who is fond of dainty lingerie a act of silver bodkina, three or four in number, to run ribbons with. Fig. I. lit cllent Blouse Model to Develop In Borah Silk or self Tone Net With Broadcloth Suit. Those are done up in silk cases and cost about $1 a set. For the man or girl who lives in a boardingliouse a chaflpg.dlsh in nickel, in which can be made tasty dishes for friends who call. Prices range from $2.50 up. For the man who travels, a patent bottle which will keep .liquids warm or cold for many hours. These are now to be had for less than a dollar In small sizes. The Help Question. Harper's Weekly. Mistress Is that the milkman, Sarah? Maid Yes, ma'am. Mistress How much milk did you take? Maid Please ma'am," he only came to ask me to go out to tea with him. Meeting the Strain of Christmas CHRISTMAS festivities are no longer confined to one day, and the wom an who is in even a mild social whirl will find that she has seven days and nights full of entertainments before her. The first two or three days FIG. 0. HOUSE GOWN OF CATAWBA SA TIX FINISHED CASHMERE. may -go well enough, but on the fourth day the woman finds her feet begin to drag, and on. the fifth day, she yawns when her hostess is not looking. At the end of the week she may be a physical and nervous wreck. The ques tion, therefore, is how ' to meet this Christmas BEAR in mind that the appreciation of a Christmas gift received is as important as the planning of a gift sent. Nothing hurts a friend like Indif ference or criticism of what she sends you. Do not tell her that you received three presents Just alike, including hers, in a tone that suggests your desire to ex change them. If you must tell her any thing, insinuate that, of the three, hers appealed to you most strongly. White fibs for saving the feelings of friends are not only permissible, but obligatory at Christmas-tide. " Acknowledge Christmas gifts promptly Do not make excuse that the gaiety of Christmas week prevents, and then write your notes of thanks after January 1. "Do it now" is a good motto to hang above your array of holiday gifts. Steal an hour somehow each morning and write Christmas acknowledgements. Do not try to make up for remissness in correspond ence when writing these acknowledge ments. A graceful note covering not more than two pages of notepaper will be sufficient. Save "the story of your life" for a later letter. If you are a stranger In town or a new comer, and are invited by newly-made acquaintances to share their Christmas feast, remember that they are" paying you the highest compliment of the year. Acknowledge the invitation immediately, accepting, if possible, to show your appre ciation or expressing sincere regret if you must decline. There is no more charming hospitality than admitting a stranger, for whose loneliness pity is felt, to the family circle. If you are invited to ,spend Christmas with friends out of town, ascertain their family customs and mode of living before you decide to accept the invitation. For instance, in some households of means, guests remember the servants with pres ents of money. In other households the holiday is a riot of extravagant giving, in which guests and family share. If you feel that you cannot do this and that you will be embarrassed by the fact, by all means decline the invitation. But In the average American home, no such expenditure is demanded of the holi tax upon her strength and yet be able to enjoy all the social affairs of the holiday week. One of he first of the general rules is to eat sparingly and thus keep the stomach In good condition. The woman who accepts an invitation to a lunch eon and another to a dinner on one day, must eat only a little of each dish set before her, else she will pay the penalty of a sick headache the next morning. The next rule of importance is to Courtesies of day guest. The young man who is enter tained by his college chum, takes the latter a suitable gift, and, if he can af ford it, orders candy or flowers sent to his hostess or the young ladies of the family, though the latter is not necessary He can show his appreciation of the hos pitality in other ways. The youn man at the Christmas house party can more than return the kindness by assisting his hostess to amuse other guests. The young man who visits a married couple with children may take candy to his hostess or order flowers sent to her Christmas morning, or he will do even better to take a gift to each child. A young girl entertained at the home of a friend generally takes a gift for her chum, and some trifle for the girl's mother. She is not expected to remember each individual In the family circle, but if there are aged persons in the family circle where you, are entertained at Christmas-tide, take something to them, if only a trifle- A young girl who visited in such a home last year said she felt so sorry for the grandmother, who received only a few remembrances from old friends, and not even a flower from the young people who had been Invited to Join the family circle at the country house. If you have a friend in a hospital, be sure to send some Christmas greeting that will arrive either Christmas eve or the first thing in the morning. A blooming Poinsettia or little evergreen tree, en twined with scarlet ribbon is a most time ly gift. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Steel Kibs In Fur Xeckwear. . The very latest notion is the "spring" collar, a smart strip of fur through which runs a thin, flexible rib of steel some thing like the steel bracelet which the bicycle enthusiast wears to keep his nether garments from flapping around his ankles. .This new fur collar needs no snap or other fastening, for it springs into the right snugnoss around the throat. When the wearer is in a warm room the collar may be clasped around the arm, with less danger of losing it than when. Entertainments relax at every possible moment during the week. And to relax. ,it is not nec essary to go to bed. When a high strung woman is rushed at times, she is apt to rush when it is not necessary. Do not sit on the edge of a chair as if you had to Jump at a moment's notice. Do not sit in the streetcar with shoulders up and hands clasped tightly, staring out of the window for fear of passing your desired street corner. Lean back In the chair in a comfortable ,. position if only for three minutes, and in the car let your hands lie limp in your lap, and trust to luck and the conductor to set you off at the right corner. If you are home and have been rushing about the house all morning', take off all your clothes and lie down, flat on your back without any pillow under your head, for 15 minutes. Do not argue that it takes too long to un dress, because the new life that such relaxation will give you more than re pays for lost time. Warm baths will do much to help sustain your strength and stimulate tired nerves. Very good effects are derived by taking a very hot bath, scrubbing the flesh with a stiff brush to cpen the pores, and then taking a cold shower. If you have no shower in the house, dashing the body with cold water will answer the purpose. This brings the blood to the surface and acts like magic on the very tired woman. . There are simple herb drinks which are perfectly harmless and which some times help women whose nerves are trembling with excitement. For in stance, put two or three, teaspoonfuls of tincture of red lavender in a cup of hot water, add to it a slice or two of lemon and drink while hot. This will often re lieve exhaustion and weariness when other methods have failed. A few drops of aromatic spirits of ammonia In a lit tle cold water acts like a charm on wom en whose heart action is weak. And we must not forget the woman who is so tired that she longs for bed time to come. The hands of the clock finally point to the longed-for hour, but when she lies down she finds she is too tired to sleep. this woman I say drink warm . A cracker may be taken with it. if the plain milk does not appeal to her, but the warm milk will draw the blood from the head, and very often induces a sound, restful sleep. Whether a woman is hostess or guest during the week of social activities, she will find that she must be on her feet a great amount of time. Many women write to me complaining, that their feet swell so shockingly from this particular strain that it is impossible to wear their shoes. I will gladly furnish a foot bath for this condition to any reader who sends me a stamped and self-addressed envelope. But do not fail to bathe the feet every night before retiring and rub vaseline into tho soles. If vaseline is not agreeable, then use olive oil. Some times rubbing the feet with cut lemon will freshen and ease them. Never wear the same pair of stockings, two days In succession if you have any trouble with your feet. Frequent changing of both shoes and stockings will give great re- lief. . The effect of dress upon a woman's -nervous vitality is not to be ignored. More than one woman has fainted from the effects of a tight collar or a pair of corsets laced so tightly that the wear er could not breath" properly. If the collar of your new dress is too tight to be comfortable and you cannot fix it. better by far to wear an old dress to a reception. A pair of new snoes that do not fit exactly will make a woman's face wrinkle up with pain and causa her friends to go home and say. "How hag gard and old Mrs. Blank has grown this Winter!" And, lastly, do not go out into the bit ter cold improperly clad, trusting to the Divine Providence to keep you warm. I know it is not fashionable to wear petti coats, but wool union suits can be pur chased to keep out the cold blasts of wind. The woman wno goes outdoors without proper and sufficient clothing will enter the room of her hostess with blue Hps, red eyelids and purple cheeks, while she should come In with a white skin aglow with a rosy tinge. KATHERINE MORTON. Many Sorts as heretofore, it was held in the hand or on the lap. Short Bones In Corsets. New York Times. It is interesting to know that while corsets are longer, the- bones in them are shorter. They go over a part of the hip, but do not run down to the end of the corset. These long bones were found dis astrous, as they were constantly break ing or bending and pushing the corset into a curve below the waist. Now the bones stop short enough to prevent breakage, and the coutille Is strapped and stitched and fitted to the. figure for the rest of the length. Horrid Mrs. Brown. Chicago News. Of all the women in this town. I most dislike that Mrs. Brown. I don't think I can tell you why; Some things analysis defy. I know that I returned her call; But I dislike her; that is all. I know she has a pleasant war. At least, that's what some people say. Her children aren't neglected. No. I must admit that that is no. Her conduct is most circumspect. Her principles are quite correct. She is not stupid. She has wit. But I don't like her not a bit! I've had a feeling all alone That somehow there was something wrong. Her dresses? The dullest man could tell She has the art of dreislng well." I frankly own her gowns outshine Completely anything of mine. That last one Is the sweetest sheath; It fairly makes me gnash my teeth. I've longed and longed for such a gowB. Oh, I detest that Mrs. Brown.
