TIIE SUNDAY OREGONIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 20, 1903.
I!! KKE5rriFHC-Cfc f fASft1H5 & PEA.UTY
J , i I
Handsome Frocks and Frills for
THK Christmas holiday season 1 now
running June anil October a close
race for popularity In the selection
of weihiing dates. This In due partly to
the fact that many smart folk now keep
their i-ouniry horns open until after the
first of the year. spending only Janu
air. February and .March In town, and
partly to the prfwmf of older college
stud 'tits at home during the Christmas
vacation.
Holiday decoration make a chrming
background for wedding parties, the
South calls ali'iringly to honeymooners,
.-ovittv is at Its l?s:. physically and tem--jjera-ne
ntaiiy. at the opening of the mid
Winter season. i small wonder that
weddtnrs will be plentiful during the
n"xt fortnight.
Never have style for brides been
mora beautiful. The empire and direc-
tolre modes work up Into Ideal bridal
gowns. The lustrous satins and fabrics
of the hour are a delight In themselves
and demand little embellishment, while
the colorings In directoire broadcloths
and aim liar highly polished materials are
admirably adapted for going - away
frocks.
First, the bridal gown itself. It must
be of satin this year, ivory white pre
ferred. Lace robes are entirely out of
the fashion running. Crepe meteor,
which la almost as lustrous as satin". Is
In demand, but It is more expensive and
not much more soft and clinging than
the better grades of satin.
As to trimming, real lace seems to have
suffered an eclipse- For the tall, slen
der bride a popular trimming is tulle
ruching. row after row of it, very fine
and feathery, applied in conventional de
signs. Next to this and pre-eminently
correct for the shorter, stouter bride is
band embroidery In self-tone Ivory floss,
which is introduced on the shaped bolero,
the pointed long sleeves, the high collars
and panels or for outlining the modified
sheath skirt.
The model for a bridal gown shown
herewith Is one which can be made by
the home dressmaker. The trained skirt
has the so-called sheath opening on the
left side, which in the original gown
was of tucked chiffon oloth, while the
shaped bolero or bib effect and entire
skirt were outlined by a design in fine
srilk soutache, with embroidered dots for
centers- The yoke was outlined with a
very fine novelty silk braid, picked out
with small seed pearls.
Very beautiful bandings ready em
broidered and braided can be bought for
these satin bridal robes, and some love
lv novelty trimmings, such as nets and
laces in bandings and galloons, picked
out with seed pearls, tiny iridescent
beads or wee paillettes, are shown as
substitutes for the embroidery- The
bride -to-be should be very careful, how
ever, to avoid the trimmings spangled
with silver or gold, as they destroy the
virginal purity of the satin robe.
A feature of the bridal gown this sea
son which Is worth noting is ttre fact
that the odd, long sleeveless coats can
be used over the frocx later and make
an extra gown for the trousseau. If the
yoke is detachable it can be removed, a
sleeveless coat of spangled net or lace
can be slipped over the shoulders, and
one of the Ideal evening gowns of the
year results.
These coats come in almost every shade
of net. white, black, coppery-brown, gold,
d- lieate blues, pinks and the richer
shades, of blue. red. etc. Sometimes they
are both braided and spangied or Inset
with lace. In shape they are long, al
most invariably with a finish of deep
points and tassels or other ornaments.
The fad for long mousquetaire sleeves
w 1th decollete bodices continues, and a
pretty fancy for hair ornaments to go
with soft, fluttcry evening frocks Is a
enronet of delicate gaitre flowers, such
as morning glories, wild roses and other
S'ng'e-p-italed blossoms.
Toe directoire coat in a slightly modi
fied form Is popular for the finish of the
going-away costumes, and such a coat Is
shown in figure B. The low-hung pock
ets. thi short, double-breasted front
plec?s. the long skirt, all these suggest
the directoiro modes., but the enormous
flaring reveres, so trying to the average
woman, have been modified to a more
quiet and unobtrusive cut. Among the
new shades popular for golng-away suits
may be mentioned taupe. London smoke,
catawba. wistaria and a very rich rasp
berry red. The suit must be composed
of a princess or empire costume with
jnnfrMn or harmonizing coat. And
speaking of coats, never have fur coats J
been so popular as this season. When a '
f ir coat cannot be considered, then a
highly finished cloth is chosen instead,
preferably black with a lining of some
brilliant hue such as wistaria, flame
color, bright blue or emerald green.
We have spoken very often In this col
umn of the growing popularity of satin
finished cashmere, lightweight prunella
cloth and other Inexpensive substitutes
for satin and directoire broadcloths. Fig
tire C shows a most effective develop
ment in wistaria-colored cashmere,
trimmed with very heavy satin, which
1 Introduced In the eord-and-button gar
niture, the three-quarter standing collar.
Delicious Home-Made Christmas Candies
THE wlbe mother who wants to
sava the post-Christmas doctor's
bill and yet deprive the children
cf nothing" on this happy holiday will
make most of her candy at home. She
will then be sure that all the ingredi
ents are pure and that no poisonous
coloring matter has been used. The
always popular fudge is nourishing.
Eaten "in small quantities, it will never
harm the stomach of even a delicate
child, so we give two recipes for that
particular sweet.
Fadore Itrliatht. Mix together In a
porcelain saucpan one cup of white
sugar and one cup of dark brown
sugar, and add to it a quarter of a
of molasses and half a cup of rich
-cream. In another little pan melt about
quarter of a cup of butter, and when
melted add it to the other mixture.
Bring it all to a boil and keep it boil
ing for two or three minutes while
you stir it rapidiy. Then add two
squares of gratvd chocolate. Boil hard
for five minutes more, stirring rapidly
at first, and gradually more slowly.
Remove from the fire and add a tea
spoon and a half of vanilla. Ptir until
it becomes thick, pour into buttered
pans and set away to cool, marking
out in squares before it hardens.
Not Vutlmr- Dissolve two squares of
chocolate in one cup of milk and add
two cups of s-ranulated sugar. Then
add a tablespoonful of butter. When
the mixluro has cooked so that you
an see the bottom of the pan when
stirring, remove from the fire and beat
tie and outline for the tucker. For a
stout woman the frills of satin which
outline the vest effect of the bodice
should he replaced by a fiat novelty
braid.
Incidentally, for house frocks, many
sleeve novelties are shown, with a wis
ji iii
FIG. A. BRIDAL ROBE OF DIKECTOIRE SATIN, CHIFFON CLOTH AND SO.K
SOUTACHE.
tarla-colored cashmere gown, for In
stance, the mousquetaire sleeves, or even
the elbow sleeves, if such are preferred,
may be of rather coarse wistaria-colored
net with a lining of mousseline in the
same shade and an Interlining of fine
silver gauxe. With a catawba cloth, the
matching net is. used. Interlined with a
coppery or bronze gauze. The metallic
gleam through net Is very good indeed.
All house gowns and all street gowns
for calling, recrptlons. etc.. are made
with trains. Kvening frocks in very
soft fabrics like net. chiffon cloth, tc.
are made with a sweep all the way
round.
The bride, buying final touches for
her trousseau, should knowt
That the new umbrella handles are
until nearly cold. Add one cup of hick
ory nuts, chopped rather fine, and
pour tnto buttered pans, and mark out
in squares before thoroughly cold.
Creole Kisses. Put the whites of
three eggs Into a bowl, add half a
pound of sugar, and beat until it will
stand. This takes nearly 20 minutes.
Then add gradually half pound of nuts
any kind will do. but pecan nuts are
best and finally half teaspoon of va
nilla. Drop by spoonfuls on brown pa
per not buttered and bake in a me
dium oven until they crack open. When
they are golden brown, they are done.
Ice Cream Caady. In a porcelain
lined or agate saucepan boil together,
1 Vi cups of white sugar, three-quarters
of a cup of cold water, tablespoon of
butter, tablespoon of lemon extract, or
Juice of lemon, enough to make that
amount and just a pinch of cream
tartar. Boil until It becomes hard
when dropped into cold water, and will
crackle on the side of the cup. Add the
flavoring Just when the candy is com
ing off tho fire and stir well. Pour
off Into buttered tins, and when cool
enough to handle, pull until perfectly
white. Pull out Into strings about as
thick as your thumb and cut in pieces
with large scissors.
Coeoannt Cream. Buy one large co
coanut, and in breaking It open save
every bit of its milk. Pour a pound
and a half of granulated sugar into a
pan with the milk of the nut and heat
slowly together until the sugar is
melted and then let It simmer for about
five minutes. Grate the fresh cocoa-
Holiday Brides
very long, due to the prevalence, of
directoire modes.
" That Instead of short flannel skirts,
the up-to-date woman wears very full
bloomers or knickerbockers, gored nd
fitted into a smooth, circular yoke.
Thev fasten below the knee with
buckles or buttons, and are made of
ecru linen, sateen or silk.
That a bead bag: of any sort is a
splendid Investment and much smarter
than anything In gold or silver mesh.
The longer or deeper the bag the
better.
That fur toques with birds of para
dise trimming are in vogue.
That smart trimming shows soutache
alternating with very narrow velvet
bands, either cut on the bias or made
of narrow ribbon.
That the newest white lace for
spangled robes for evening and house
gowns are of white, with jet motifs
and deep, bands of black velvet, say
three inches or more, about the foot.
MART DEAN.
nut and add It slowly. Boil for ten
minutes after the cocoanut Is all In,
and stir constantly to keep It from
sticking to the bottom of the pot and
burning. Pour out onto buttered china
plates and cut tnto squares. This
should then be set into a cool place
and left for 48 hours, as it takes about
that time to harden.
Women's Hats.
London Chronicle.
The American lecturer who tried to per
suade the women in his audience the
other day that their own hair was a
prettier, not to say less obstructive, sight
than their spacious hats, Ignored the
warnings of history. No matinee hat of
today is so high as the lofty head-dresses
worn by Marie Antoinette, which were
the despair of poor simple-minded Louis
XVI. But when deprived of all ipossibil
Ity of being able to see a performance
at the opera, he presented his wife with
an aigrette of diamonds, in the hope that
It might supplant a head-dress 45 inches
in height, the Queen promptly had the
diamonds incorporated in a ' new head
dress which was taller than all Its prede
cessors. Apathy in "Woman.
It is unquestionably true that one of
the greatest obstacles In the woman's
path of industrial progress has been her
own apathy. She is reproached by the
men in- her trade for her lack of Inter
est In trade unionism: she is reproached
by the philanthropist for her lack of am
bition her seeming willingness to remain
unskilled and underpaid. - But In this
new movement for the irancmse. we
have the women who are already in the
ranks of the skilled workers, and who
have long since proved their capacity
for organization taking another great
step forward. They have at last learned
that their industrial regeneration, can
come only through their own efforts and
the Importance of this new spirit of in
dependence, this enlarging of the work
ing woman's sphere of activity to demand
a "voice in the laws that regulate her
toil." would be. difficult to overestimate.
Edith Abbott in Atlantic.
Eleventh-Hour Gifts
at Little Cost
AT TIIE last moment before Christ
mas, one is sure to recall a for
gotten relative or friend, and cry, "Oh,
what can I get at this late day?"
The answer is, "Lots of pretty things
are new and fetching and not so very
expensive either." For instance:
A ring of matrix, turquoise or jade
(the iatter a good imitation) set in
dull gold or silver is a fad among girls.
A hatpin of rhlnestones, set in the
form of a' cube or pyramid will cost
$1.50 and please any girl.
For the delicate woman a new smell
ing salts bottle made of green glass.
Fir. B. Going Away Suit In Wistaria-Colored
(loth.
about as big round as your thumb, and
covered with filagree silver, will cost
$1.50.
For the house wife a new style in
lunch cloth and napkins, with conven
tional designs in colors for borders,
hemstitched, not fringed, costs $4 up
wards. These are made of German
linen.
A clever imitation silk hose called
ingrain, which wears better than silk,
comes In all the colors of the season
and costs less than a dollar a pair, is
Just tho thing for the girl who loves
fancy hosiery.
For a man's den, a sconce of plaster
Paris, colored green and brown to imi
tate bronze, is very stunning and costs
50 cents up, according to style.
For the girl who loves brass or
copper ornaments Jn her room a can
dlestick and reflector of Puritan de
Sign at 75 cents is pleasing.
For the girl who owns much pretty
jewelry try a leather Jewel box, with
lock and key. These are made like
miniature trunks, with tray for rings
and the lower part for other orna
ments. They cost from $2.50 up, ac
cording' to size, and are found in all
colors, red, green, royal blue, etc.
For the girl who is fond of dainty
lingerie a act of silver bodkina, three
or four in number, to run ribbons with.
Fig. I. lit cllent Blouse Model to Develop
In Borah Silk or self Tone Net With
Broadcloth Suit.
Those are done up in silk cases and
cost about $1 a set.
For the man or girl who lives in a
boardingliouse a chaflpg.dlsh in nickel,
in which can be made tasty dishes for
friends who call. Prices range from
$2.50 up.
For the man who travels, a patent
bottle which will keep .liquids warm
or cold for many hours. These are
now to be had for less than a dollar
In small sizes.
The Help Question.
Harper's Weekly.
Mistress Is that the milkman, Sarah?
Maid Yes, ma'am.
Mistress How much milk did you take?
Maid Please ma'am," he only came to
ask me to go out to tea with him.
Meeting the Strain of Christmas
CHRISTMAS festivities are no longer
confined to one day, and the wom
an who is in even a mild social
whirl will find that she has seven
days and nights full of entertainments
before her. The first two or three days
FIG. 0. HOUSE GOWN OF CATAWBA SA TIX FINISHED CASHMERE.
may -go well enough, but on the fourth
day the woman finds her feet begin to
drag, and on. the fifth day, she yawns
when her hostess is not looking. At
the end of the week she may be a
physical and nervous wreck. The ques
tion, therefore, is how ' to meet this
Christmas
BEAR in mind that the appreciation
of a Christmas gift received is as
important as the planning of a gift
sent. Nothing hurts a friend like Indif
ference or criticism of what she sends
you. Do not tell her that you received
three presents Just alike, including hers,
in a tone that suggests your desire to ex
change them. If you must tell her any
thing, insinuate that, of the three, hers
appealed to you most strongly. White
fibs for saving the feelings of friends are
not only permissible, but obligatory at
Christmas-tide. "
Acknowledge Christmas gifts promptly
Do not make excuse that the gaiety of
Christmas week prevents, and then write
your notes of thanks after January 1.
"Do it now" is a good motto to hang
above your array of holiday gifts. Steal
an hour somehow each morning and write
Christmas acknowledgements. Do not try
to make up for remissness in correspond
ence when writing these acknowledge
ments. A graceful note covering not more
than two pages of notepaper will be
sufficient. Save "the story of your life"
for a later letter.
If you are a stranger In town or a new
comer, and are invited by newly-made
acquaintances to share their Christmas
feast, remember that they are" paying
you the highest compliment of the year.
Acknowledge the invitation immediately,
accepting, if possible, to show your appre
ciation or expressing sincere regret if you
must decline. There is no more charming
hospitality than admitting a stranger, for
whose loneliness pity is felt, to the family
circle.
If you are invited to ,spend Christmas
with friends out of town, ascertain their
family customs and mode of living before
you decide to accept the invitation. For
instance, in some households of means,
guests remember the servants with pres
ents of money. In other households the
holiday is a riot of extravagant giving, in
which guests and family share. If you
feel that you cannot do this and that you
will be embarrassed by the fact, by all
means decline the invitation.
But In the average American home, no
such expenditure is demanded of the holi
tax upon her strength and yet be able
to enjoy all the social affairs of the
holiday week.
One of he first of the general rules
is to eat sparingly and thus keep the
stomach In good condition. The woman
who accepts an invitation to a lunch
eon and another to a dinner on one
day, must eat only a little of each
dish set before her, else she will pay
the penalty of a sick headache the next
morning.
The next rule of importance is to
Courtesies of
day guest. The young man who is enter
tained by his college chum, takes the
latter a suitable gift, and, if he can af
ford it, orders candy or flowers sent to
his hostess or the young ladies of the
family, though the latter is not necessary
He can show his appreciation of the hos
pitality in other ways. The youn man
at the Christmas house party can more
than return the kindness by assisting his
hostess to amuse other guests.
The young man who visits a married
couple with children may take candy to
his hostess or order flowers sent to her
Christmas morning, or he will do even
better to take a gift to each child.
A young girl entertained at the home
of a friend generally takes a gift for
her chum, and some trifle for the girl's
mother. She is not expected to remember
each individual In the family circle, but
if there are aged persons in the family
circle where you, are entertained at
Christmas-tide, take something to them,
if only a trifle- A young girl who visited
in such a home last year said she felt so
sorry for the grandmother, who received
only a few remembrances from old
friends, and not even a flower from the
young people who had been Invited to
Join the family circle at the country
house.
If you have a friend in a hospital, be
sure to send some Christmas greeting that
will arrive either Christmas eve or the
first thing in the morning. A blooming
Poinsettia or little evergreen tree, en
twined with scarlet ribbon is a most time
ly gift. PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Steel Kibs In Fur Xeckwear. .
The very latest notion is the "spring"
collar, a smart strip of fur through which
runs a thin, flexible rib of steel some
thing like the steel bracelet which the
bicycle enthusiast wears to keep his
nether garments from flapping around his
ankles. .This new fur collar needs no
snap or other fastening, for it springs
into the right snugnoss around the throat.
When the wearer is in a warm room the
collar may be clasped around the arm,
with less danger of losing it than when.
Entertainments
relax at every possible moment during
the week. And to relax. ,it is not nec
essary to go to bed. When a high
strung woman is rushed at times, she
is apt to rush when it is not necessary.
Do not sit on the edge of a chair as
if you had to Jump at a moment's
notice. Do not sit in the streetcar with
shoulders up and hands clasped tightly,
staring out of the window for fear of
passing your desired street corner.
Lean back In the chair in a comfortable ,.
position if only for three minutes, and
in the car let your hands lie limp in
your lap, and trust to luck and the
conductor to set you off at the right
corner. If you are home and have been
rushing about the house all morning',
take off all your clothes and lie down,
flat on your back without any pillow
under your head, for 15 minutes. Do
not argue that it takes too long to un
dress, because the new life that such
relaxation will give you more than re
pays for lost time.
Warm baths will do much to help
sustain your strength and stimulate
tired nerves. Very good effects are
derived by taking a very hot bath,
scrubbing the flesh with a stiff brush
to cpen the pores, and then taking a
cold shower. If you have no shower
in the house, dashing the body with
cold water will answer the purpose.
This brings the blood to the surface
and acts like magic on the very tired
woman. .
There are simple herb drinks which
are perfectly harmless and which some
times help women whose nerves are
trembling with excitement. For in
stance, put two or three, teaspoonfuls of
tincture of red lavender in a cup of hot
water, add to it a slice or two of lemon
and drink while hot. This will often re
lieve exhaustion and weariness when
other methods have failed. A few drops
of aromatic spirits of ammonia In a lit
tle cold water acts like a charm on wom
en whose heart action is weak.
And we must not forget the woman
who is so tired that she longs for bed
time to come. The hands of the clock
finally point to the longed-for hour, but
when she lies down she finds she is too
tired to sleep. this woman I say
drink warm . A cracker may be
taken with it. if the plain milk does not
appeal to her, but the warm milk will
draw the blood from the head, and very
often induces a sound, restful sleep.
Whether a woman is hostess or guest
during the week of social activities, she
will find that she must be on her feet
a great amount of time. Many women
write to me complaining, that their feet
swell so shockingly from this particular
strain that it is impossible to wear their
shoes. I will gladly furnish a foot bath
for this condition to any reader who
sends me a stamped and self-addressed
envelope. But do not fail to bathe the
feet every night before retiring and rub
vaseline into tho soles. If vaseline is
not agreeable, then use olive oil. Some
times rubbing the feet with cut lemon
will freshen and ease them. Never wear
the same pair of stockings, two days In
succession if you have any trouble with
your feet. Frequent changing of both
shoes and stockings will give great re-
lief. .
The effect of dress upon a woman's -nervous
vitality is not to be ignored.
More than one woman has fainted from
the effects of a tight collar or a pair
of corsets laced so tightly that the wear
er could not breath" properly. If the
collar of your new dress is too tight to
be comfortable and you cannot fix it.
better by far to wear an old dress to a
reception. A pair of new snoes that do
not fit exactly will make a woman's face
wrinkle up with pain and causa her
friends to go home and say. "How hag
gard and old Mrs. Blank has grown this
Winter!"
And, lastly, do not go out into the bit
ter cold improperly clad, trusting to the
Divine Providence to keep you warm. I
know it is not fashionable to wear petti
coats, but wool union suits can be pur
chased to keep out the cold blasts of
wind. The woman wno goes outdoors
without proper and sufficient clothing
will enter the room of her hostess with
blue Hps, red eyelids and purple cheeks,
while she should come In with a white
skin aglow with a rosy tinge.
KATHERINE MORTON.
Many Sorts
as heretofore, it was held in the hand or
on the lap.
Short Bones In Corsets.
New York Times.
It is interesting to know that while
corsets are longer, the- bones in them are
shorter. They go over a part of the hip,
but do not run down to the end of the
corset. These long bones were found dis
astrous, as they were constantly break
ing or bending and pushing the corset
into a curve below the waist.
Now the bones stop short enough to
prevent breakage, and the coutille Is
strapped and stitched and fitted to the.
figure for the rest of the length.
Horrid Mrs. Brown.
Chicago News.
Of all the women in this town.
I most dislike that Mrs. Brown.
I don't think I can tell you why;
Some things analysis defy.
I know that I returned her call;
But I dislike her; that is all.
I know she has a pleasant war.
At least, that's what some people say.
Her children aren't neglected. No.
I must admit that that is no.
Her conduct is most circumspect.
Her principles are quite correct.
She is not stupid. She has wit.
But I don't like her not a bit!
I've had a feeling all alone
That somehow there was something wrong.
Her dresses? The dullest man could tell
She has the art of dreislng well."
I frankly own her gowns outshine
Completely anything of mine.
That last one Is the sweetest sheath;
It fairly makes me gnash my teeth.
I've longed and longed for such a gowB.
Oh, I detest that Mrs. Brown.