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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Dec. 6, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 6. 1908. KKE5rQHFl1C:DC;Qf -f A5nir!5 PEA.UTT - ff l I ttiat twenty minutes is long enough, i . 1 , r Fashions for Pighting Cold THIS Is what may he termed th use of defensive therapeutics. Th up-to-dnte physicians, as well as students of hvgiene and sanitation, are concei,trating their efforts on the pre vAfiiion, not the cure, of illness. We are so accustomed to connecting the word fashion with mere raimen that it com-s with something of shock to It-nrn that there ate also fash Ions in health and sanitation. There was a time when the semi-invalid wa distinctly in fasnlon, a most interesting figure upon whom was showered social attentions, flowers, gifts, etc. Today the seml-lnva!id. the possessor of Inde finable but chronic aches and pains. Is completely out of the running. She cuts so sorry a figure that she insists upon getting well. Many of us can look back to the day when Illness In the family meant the turning on of extra heat, and the shut ting out of all air. dubbed dangerous draughts. Today, pure air in unlimited quantities and exercises of all sorts are prescribed. Hence. In planning the family wardrobe, whether for the sick or the well, the new methods of pre venting or attacking disease must be considered. How to keep the body warm and the bedroom filled with pure air is one household problem which can be solved largely in the sewing-room. It Is gen erally agreed that with warm sleeping attire and warm feet, all under ample covering, the cold room will work good instead of' harm to the sleeper. This means a Winter farewell to muslin, nainsook and dimity night gowns, with low necks and elbow sleeves. A famous specialist in bron chial and lung t:oubles says that the low-necked, short-sleeved nightdress worn in cold weather Is a common cause of colds which If not "fatal are d.-ep-seated and difficult to cure. The proper nightdress for cold weather is the simplest model made in wash flan ' nel. a pretty model for which is shown in figure A. Barring a few tucks on the shoulder for the full figure, this gown is plain back and front, a factor in laundering all flannels. It also flts'snugly around the throat and has long sleeves, fitted Into a narrow cuff. In the model, sllk-and-wool cloth was used with German Valenciennes lace for trimming, but equally satisfactory results can be se cured by employing a good grade of wash fla-nnei at about 12 cents a yard, with trimming of torchon lace. Do not use Hambu:g embroidery on wash flan nel. It docs not wash as well as the heavy torchon laces. If you do jour own laundry work, and are sure that your nightdresses will not be frozen in the process of drying, use tine striped designs In blue and w hite and pink and white. But if your clothHig is at the more or less tender mercy of an outside laundress, pin your faith on gray and white, which will not fade under freex- ; .. .-. Ti. i . . 1114. Atieie 1 e nov some preiiy ue signs in tan-color and white. Very Important Is your bedroom your nightdress If roused In the night lo attend tires, open the door to late comers, or heat milk for . the ailing baby. This may be made of eider down flannel from practically the same pattern shown above, but open all the way down the front, and in a larger than the nightdress. to permit size iiuick changes. Let the sleeves be loose and bell-shaped, and have either a deep. rolling collar or no collar at all on this gown. Some very beautiful new wash flan nels, in extra heavy weight at 15 cents a yard are shown for this purpose. They have a plain body with beauti fully stamped borders which can be used to outline the robe ail the way round. Including the sleeves. Pretty Sray-blues. and rose-pinks, eardfnal--t d and tan-color are shown, with bop Jers o! Persian design and colorings. Heside your bed should always rest a pair of warm slippers to slip on in case of emergency. Personally, I think there is nothing better than old-fashioned frit slippers without heels. They are much , warmer even than t the sain Jullettes with quilted lining. Another useful bedroom adjunct is a paid of bed-slippers or socks such as are shown In figure B. These you can make at small cVst from pieces left from your nightgown or robe, or from bottom, securing your full allotment of pure air and yet be cozy and warm be neath the covers. . Another fashion in hygienic living is exercise outdoors no matter what he weather, jind this means Warmer out door lolment than the smart tailored A WASHABLE DESIGN FOR WINTER NIGHT ROBES. Fn remnant of eiderdown. Made of ouble-faced eiderdown they are ideally warm and comforting, and most sani tary, .for they can be washed every eek. And finally, prepare for cold nights and chilled feet, the latter often pre- ursors of pneumonia or pleurisy, by wnlng a hot-water bag with a flannel cover. The last Item is most important. for who has not known the discomfort of waking in the night with the uncan ny feeling of touching something clam my 1. e., a chilled rubber water bag. Save pieces from any flannel garment you may be making and own a cover for your hot-water bag. Two designs are shown today, one finished with straps and the other with a draw string. If you have no flannel rem nants In the house, three-quarters of goods a yard wide will make both -the water-bag and slippers. Thus prepared for cold weather, you can fling your window wide, top and suit and in fabrics which will with stand rain and snow. Kor . this use, a skirt clearing the ground by at least four inches and a stout storm coat are essential. Crav enetted or rainproof cloths can be bought for from $2 a yard upward. In 52-inch width, and a variety of sub dued colorings, like Oxford gray and tan. Two very good models for making up such fabrics, or the heavy English worsted, suitable for the same purpose, are shown in figures C and D. The gored skirt has a pleasing flare around the bottom, but (Its snugly over ,the hips, while the coat has the loose arm holes essential in a storm coat which, in cold weather, may be worn over a sweater or cardigan jacket. And finally, we are showing a very good storm coat for the wee girl of the family who must share outdoor exer cise with her elders, a coat In minia ture of the one worn by her mother. MARY DEAN. but an hour Is far better. Here are a, few suggestions for macaroni dishes, so acceptable at this season of the year: Italian Macaroni Boll enough maca roni for the famiiy for about an hour, and wnen cooked 'drain it off into an other sauce pan and pour over it half a cup of melted butter. In another saucepan stew a can of tomatoes until dorie, strain through a fine sieve and thicken with a tablespoon of browned butter'and flour. Season with Salt and red pepper to taste. Put the macaroni In a deep dish and pour the thickened tomatoes over it. then cover the top of the dish with' grated cheese. Serve at once. Chicken Saute With Asparagus Tips. .Remember in preparing this dish that it is only Tine course' of your luncheon menu, so when you have drawn and wiped your chicken dry, cut It Into sm.il! sections, discarding the back and neck for future use in making stock. Cut the breast into at least three pieces and do not use the giblets at all.- Melt two tnblespoons of clear bacon drlp- ings and lay the ehlgken In this, turn- g it often, so that it mellows In the bacon grease but does not fry brown. Cover, set on the back of the stove and steam half an hour. It should not be permitted to burn 'down. Roll each piece separately In fine bread crumbs already seasoned with salt and pepper. Pour off any liquid or 'broth that may be left In the skillet to use in the gravy and add fresh bacon grease or a little butter, or both. Brown th. chicken in this grease, remove, drain and arrange on a hot platter. To the drippings left in the pan add one ta- blespoonful of flour, rub smooth and then add whatever liquor you may have poured from the chicken and half a cup of rich, sweet milk or thin cream. When this comes to a boil add one cup ot canned asparagus tips which have been drained, a pinch of ground mace, a few drops of lemon juice and the yolk of one egg. Just as it comes to a boll, and before the yolk of the egg curdles, pour over the. chicken and serve piping hot. Murshmallow Cream. Here is a very delicious and attract ive dessert. Buy half a pound of fresh inarshmallows and cut into pieces about a quarter of an inch square. Have ready a third' of a pound of nut meats, almonds, pecans and English walnuts, ground In a meat grinder. Mix' these with the marshmallows, blending them by stirring In lightly the white of one egg whipped to a stiff froth. Have ready a rather shallow cut glass bowl. Put a layer of the marshma-llow mixture first, then one of Malaga grapes, seeded, another layer of the marshmallews and nuts, and finally a sprinkling of shredded .pine apple the canned is best or Mara schino cherries, cut fine. Chill in the ice-box and serve with whipped cream, the latter in a separate bowl. Macaroni Croquettes. This is a very good way of using up left-over macaroni. Take about two cups of the cooked macaroni and chop It quite fine, and If it Is not soft enough, add a little white sauce to it. Heat It in a sauce-pan over slow fire, season highly with salt and red pepper and add a little grated cheese to it. Take out and shaje into long croquettes, roll them first in bread crumbs not cracker dust then In the beaten yolk of an egg, then in the bread crumbs once more. Let them dry for a fe w moments, and fry in deep fat. Serve on a platter with drawn butter, and sprinkle powdered cheese over It. Par mesan cheese Is best, but English cheese will answer the purpose. Fashion Facis in Face-Framing OT IN years, one might almost say generations, has Fashion played such mad pranks- with the femin ine face. Eccentric styles in ' hairdress ing. extreme modes In neckwear, well nigh Impossible lines in hats, these, with wear the peculiar combination of pom padour and Psyche knot now In vogue. Again, you may have bought a most beautiful set of puffs, perfectly matching your hair, and you proceed to lay them, like half a dozen highly burnished little 1 . - - The Social Demands on Married Couples '-.HE question so often arises In the family circle as to whether the hus band must do this or the wife do that, and generally speaking the husband 'lips out of most of his obligations, leav ing the wife to bear a double social bur den. But there are certain social duties hich are exp.H-ted and should be de manded of both. A man is very apt to come home some - evening and say: '-I wish you would go and call on Jones' wife. He;s a good friend of mine in business and I think you might help me out to that extent. The proper way to solve such a problem is for that man to ask Jones when he and his wife will be at home, adding that with his wife he is coming around some evening to make the call. The fact that the two men know each other would relieve an otherwise very trying and dull situation. . Again the fretful father tomes home at night and asks his wife: "Who is that inap calling on Etheir' Of course the mother should know whq is calling on her daughter, but It is none the less the duty of the father to know the young man. I do not mean that it is necessary for either or both the father and mother to sit In the parlor the entire evening, hut the head of the house should know .every young man who Is calling on his daughter. It him go Into the drawing room informally and chat with the caller a few minutes, long enough to judge if he is the right sort. And if he is not the right sort, then let him Inform li is daugh ter of that fact the next day. and when the undesirable young man calls again Kthel can easily send word that she Is not at home. When -a young girl Is introduced into society at a tea or reception, even if the affair is In. the afternoon, the father' ps well as the mother, should be In evi dence In the receiving line. He cannot Jay the entire responsibility on the shoulders of his wife. At such a tea, both men and women are invited, and as a rule a great many young men attend, hence the father should be In sight play ing his part of host, just as the wife does her share of the duty as hostess. The invitations to such a reception contain only the names of Mrs. Parker Smith and Miss Smith, hut Mr. Smith must be at liome and do all in his power to make the affair a success. Every man and woman who pretend to do the proper thing in a social way should have correct calling cards. Married cou ples need three sets. The card of the wife should read "Mrs. Walter Edward Blank." In the lower right-hand corner, her address should be engraved and if Storm Coat for Child she has a day at home this should be en graved on the lower left-hand corner. The husband should have his cards reading "Mr. Walter Edward Blank" with no house address. There should then be a third card read ing: "Mr. and Mrs. Walter Edward Blank." with the address In the lower right-hand corner, but -eliminating any day at home. All cards should be en graved on heavy, dead white bristol board In old English type. For calling and for general purposes. It Is better to use the two single oards, but the card bearing the name of both husband and wife Is used for sending wedding gifts, and In sending joint regrets to Invitations. Frequently such a card Is enclosed with a wedding invitation to indicate where the bride now lives and where the presents may be sent. When a husband and wife call on an other couple, they leave one of the wife's cards and two of the husband's. This signifies that Mrs. Smith calls on Mrs. Jones and tnat Mr. Smith calls on both Mr. and Mrs. Jones. A woman never leaves a card for a man. As soon as a death is announced among friends or ac quaintanoes cards of both husband and I wife or one of their Joint cards should be leiat tne nouse. occasionally a brier expression or sympathy is written across the card, but it Is better form to write nothing on them. If the death occurs In your own .city the caids should be left personally, not mailed, but of course if the friend lived out of town, the cards should be mailed immediately upon receiving the sad news. The man who finds himself left a widower with one or more daughters and sons to bring up must decide upon one of two plans he must either have some elderly woman come and live in .the home and take up the duties of the mother, or lie must constitute himself both father and. mother to his children. Young girls are not capable of making the right kind of friends, and -they should not be allowed to go out with' every man who asks them, nor to entertain every man who wants to call. Tb,e father must act aa their chaperon, and must keep a watchful eye on his girls. He should know every man that they know, he should know when they get In at night from the theater, and he should know the parents of all their girl friends. Unless a girl Is well along in her twen ties and has already been out a season or more with her mother to act us guide, it is far better for the father tp ask some elderly relative to come and live with them. A girl just blooming into womanhood needs the constant influence of an older woman. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Hints on Shopping R ECENT Importations include: plush in neutral tones for school girls. Waistcoats made of American beauty satin or velvet, to be worn with black costumes. These waistcoats are buttoned up the front with black velvet buttons or those made of cut jet. High stock collars of Irish or filet lace with turnover of bright satin, finished off In front with a tiny, stiff bow of the satin. A two-inch, soft ruching Is then sewed inside the collar. ' Lounging robes for cold days made in kimono style and cut from a silk-and- wool blanket. These blankets are sold in all department stores, and come In pale- pink and white stripes, light-blue and white plaid and other dainty combina tions. Buttons to trim tailored suits are covered with matching cloth and then outlined with a metal . rim which fits over the mold exactly. This is much newer than the bone rim Tised last year. Dyed laces are again in vogue, and even real Irish has found its way to the dyers. The latter is used for trimming heavy Some Timely Recipes LONG COAT WITH DEEP ARMHOLE FOR STORM USE. Handy Bedroom Trifles for Cold Weather broadcloth dresses, dyed to match the cloth. The smartest and by far the newest fad for bridesmaids is an arm bouquet of American beauty roses, tied with about six or eight yards of wide, light blue ribbon, which falls in soft loops from the arm. The effect with the pale gowns is exceeding chic. Macaroni Dish. In order to make macaroni at all palatable it should always be put into water that Is boiling "on the Jump" and very highly seasoned. Otherwise It will develop' soggy dough. Another mistake that many cooks are apt to make is not cooking macaroni long enough. Many authorities will tell you En Ooniino. - Indianapolis Neat. I.ady In th touring car, How we wonder what you are! Underneath those yards ofveil Are you flushed or are you pale? Or have we with many freek I.s behind that veil to reck? And your, no doubt, ample jhar Of that crowning glory, hair. Is It dark, or H Is fair Or some queer, uncertain shade. Which somehow has seemed to fade? What behind those goggles wide Are the beantles that they hide In the way of lustrous eyes I.Ike the midnight or the skies? Or are they of doubtful hue, mixed green, yellow, drab and blue? And the form swathed in that coat. Which makes it seem, so remote. Is It sylphllke In its way, Or mora like a bale of hay? - Lady in the touring car, ,-... We might guess on what you are If we choose; But why should we fancy mar? It would be an awful Jar If we'd lose. the restoration of earrings to a place of honor In tire jewel case, are making it somewhat difficult for the woman of quiet tastes to be" in style or the woman of or dinary good looks to save herself from the charge of looking absurd. The extreme styles of dressing the hail? and neck must be avoided by any one save the woman so strikingly beautiful, so p'erfect in features, that her physical charms do not pale under extreme fash ions. A safe rule for any girl to follow fs to study the result of her make-up from a point at least five feet from a mir ror and a full-length mirror, if possible. In dressing the hair and neck close to a small mirror the small or sectional view may be very pleasing, but a long-dis tance, full-length view, taking in the en semble, will destroy the illusion. For instance, If you' dress your hair In a Psyche knot, with a classic parting and a filet or twists of tulle, the front and back view when seated at your'mir ror.may be very good. But directly you rise, the slope of your shoulders, the fashion of your gown, or the side view- may be absolutely atrocious. Now suppose that you have seen a girl with a perfectly plain, symmetrical pom padour which was most becoming. You try the same effect, and, viewed from the front, with the pompadour brushed smooth until each hair gleams like satin. you really look very well. But stand up before a full-length mirror and get a side view, not of your pompadour alone, but of your entire make-up. And what do you see? Every irregularity of feat ure and figure emphasized by the severe, uncompromising line of that beautifully groomed pompadour. Now take out the enormous'rat, break the hair a little to the right or left of the center, curl lightly a few of the shorter hairs, especially above the -ears and at the nape of the peck, and see how much more girlish and gentle your feat ures are, how your defects are softened. Only the woman of classic features can sausages, right across that pompadour. Now, that is not the resting-place for puffs, except in a shop window. Break the line of pompadour or knot at the back of your head until it is soft and girlish looking, and then mix In the puffs, leaving one In the form of a short curl, until they seem part of your own hair, not an accessory. A well-bred woman Good Design for Rainy-Day Skirt. does not mark her artificial hair, however expensive, as such. - Be very careful about adding ribbons, twists of tulle and ornaments to your coiffure. I have seen girls at the theater with bows which stood out like the horns of His Satanic Majesty, and gave their faces a leering look. Remember that any coronet efect, whether in tulle, flowers or jewels, requires an elaborate hairdressing and an evening frock. Do not mix coro net hairdresslngs and shirtwaists. As to neck dressings, bear in mind that the new ruches must fit the neck per fectly. There is nothing more trying than a sloppy, loose-fitting ruche. If you are tall and thin, with narrow face, wear the snug-fitting ruche. If you are rotund and chubby, adopt the long, narrow Ja bot of lace or net. Never wear an earring nuless you have a pretty, well-shaped pink ear. The first office of the earring is to attract attention to the ear. and the woman with a homely feature does not want to attract attention thereto. Screw earrings are mote be coming than those which are hung from the lobe of the ear. The woman with a long, narrow face, and especially a long nose, must never wear the long, pendant earrings because they give a youthful look to the flesh. Rubies make the flesh take on a dusky hue. If the eara are prominent and non too pretty In shape, try waving the hair or rolling It just above and back of the ears, but not in a severe, plain pompa dour against which the ear will stand out more ugly than ever. As to hats. Just one word of warning. Do not be persuaded Into abandoning th bandeau under your hat unless you aro 16. pretty and reasonably tall. The ma tronly figure under the unraiscd hat In one of the freaks of 1MS-9. KATHEKIN'K MORTON. The Burden of Too Much Eating The Hone of ratlngr Hetween Men In and at Ms;ht. Northwestern Christian Advocate. ND It Is alarming when one con siders how much eating must bo done In order to keep the social and political and church and lodge life in a healthy condition nowadays. The time was when hospitality was a pleas ure, but now It is a burden under which the women are sinking by hundreds every day. The average housekeeper of the land wants to keep pace with the procession and have her children enjoy as many advantages as possible, so she drives her tired body to the w'ork and undertakes tasks far beyond her time and strength. If the neighbors serve refreshments, so must she, and if the neighbors' children have little parties and picnics, and taffy scrapes, so must her children. It is eat, eat. on every oc casion, till one wonders if in time the three meals a day of the family will not be abolished because people have no appetites for them. "We'd all be glad to do away with the usless eating, hut we can't do it," said a weary housekeeper. 'As it is, we have to do the best we can and hope for better times." Real hospitality suffers from tins ex cessive eating. Everything is reduced to the give-and-take system, that tig- idly keeps account ot each entertain ment and pays it back as promptly as , possible. We cannot ask 'our friends because "we are not Indebted to them." and when we do entertain, we try to take In as many as possible to whom we are indebted and have it over with. The guest who dares to "drop in" un announced Is a very courageous person, and even near relatives are fonuincf the habit of eating at hotels and res taurants rather than expect a welcome if they happen to be in time for meals but cannot announce their coming. They have learned that It Is the only safe plan. The hostess who uncom plainingly provides wafers and lees for 40 persons, dislikes to have a friend drop in without warning at meal time, and few people are guilty of such a thing nowadays. We cheerfully do a wholesale business along the line of hospitality, but will have nothing to da with the retail part of It. In a church of 500 members the committee appoint ed to find entertainment for over Sun day for the new pastor almost gave up In despair in hunting a hostess. Just as they were about to give up and send the minister to a hotel, one woman came forward with a doubtful state ment that she would take lilm if she had to, but would not be imposed upon again. This sounds strange when one remembers the "Prophet's Chamber" of a generation or two back, when the min ister was an honored and welcome guest in almost every home. Eating between meals and late at night only heaps up trouble for the In dividual who Indulges, and for his fam ily as well. In the days gone by child ren were supposed to be In bed by 8 o'clock and to give their waking hours to school and work and play, but tit present the children act very much like their elders They have their clubs, their social affahs. and their church organisations, but the mothers are tho ones who prepare the refreshments for all the meetings, and the mothers who nurse them through troubles brought on by too much eating and losing sleep. The woman who takes a cup of tea and a wafer during the afternoon has her appetite destroyed for the evening meal, and the man who drinks hot cof fee and eats cheese and rye bread anil the various other viands served at "smokers" will surely suffer next day. The overworked stomachs of the pres ent generation are responsible for much of the unrest and lack of enjoy ment in life. No wonder foreigners say we take our pleasures sadly. How else can we take them when they are a burde'n to us? Perhaps we will some day go back to the delightful custom of meeting occasionally without the duty of eating too much, but it Is doubtful. However, let us live in hope. Hot Way to Repair Gloves. A mistake that is oftenmade is mend ing gloves with silk. At any notion counter you can get for 15 cents a plait of cotton threads of various colors, especially intended for this purpose. With it should be kept a small piece of wax, a thimble, a glove mender and a paper of regular glove needles, which have the points slightly flattened. Slip these in the top bureau drawer, where you will not have to hunt for them, and if you are putting on a glove to go out and see that a thread is broken, showing only the tiniest hole, stop rlgh: there and mend It. It won't take but a few seconds, 'and It you let It go the rip Is bound to become longer and the edge' of the kid will roll and then the glove will always show that It has been re paired, no matter how carefully It Is done. Macaroni With Tomatoes. Break Into short lengths macaroni enough to fill a large coffee cup, and dash Into pot of boiling water which If well salted. Cook until tender, and stir very often at first to keep from stick ing to the botttom of the pot. When cooked, drain off all the liquor, put the macaroni into a porcelain kettle, and add one cup of either beef or chicken stock and one cup of tomatoes which have been rubbed through a colander. Let this simmer for 20 minutes, or until the liquor Is well absorbed. Add to it half a cup of grated cheese, one tablespoon of butter, salt and red pepper to taste, and serve very hot.
