THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, DECEMBER 6. 1908.
KKE5rQHFl1C:DC;Qf -f A5nir!5 PEA.UTT - ff
l I ttiat twenty minutes is long enough, i . 1 ,
r
Fashions for Pighting Cold
THIS Is what may he termed th
use of defensive therapeutics. Th
up-to-dnte physicians, as well as
students of hvgiene and sanitation, are
concei,trating their efforts on the pre
vAfiiion, not the cure, of illness.
We are so accustomed to connecting
the word fashion with mere raimen
that it com-s with something of
shock to It-nrn that there ate also fash
Ions in health and sanitation. There
was a time when the semi-invalid wa
distinctly in fasnlon, a most interesting
figure upon whom was showered social
attentions, flowers, gifts, etc. Today
the seml-lnva!id. the possessor of Inde
finable but chronic aches and pains. Is
completely out of the running. She
cuts so sorry a figure that she insists
upon getting well.
Many of us can look back to the day
when Illness In the family meant the
turning on of extra heat, and the shut
ting out of all air. dubbed dangerous
draughts. Today, pure air in unlimited
quantities and exercises of all sorts are
prescribed. Hence. In planning the
family wardrobe, whether for the sick
or the well, the new methods of pre
venting or attacking disease must be
considered.
How to keep the body warm and the
bedroom filled with pure air is one
household problem which can be solved
largely in the sewing-room. It Is gen
erally agreed that with warm sleeping
attire and warm feet, all under ample
covering, the cold room will work good
instead of' harm to the sleeper.
This means a Winter farewell to
muslin, nainsook and dimity night
gowns, with low necks and elbow
sleeves. A famous specialist in bron
chial and lung t:oubles says that the
low-necked, short-sleeved nightdress
worn in cold weather Is a common
cause of colds which If not "fatal are
d.-ep-seated and difficult to cure. The
proper nightdress for cold weather is
the simplest model made in wash flan
' nel. a pretty model for which is shown
in figure A.
Barring a few tucks on the shoulder
for the full figure, this gown is plain
back and front, a factor in laundering
all flannels. It also flts'snugly around
the throat and has long sleeves, fitted
Into a narrow cuff. In the model, sllk-and-wool
cloth was used with German
Valenciennes lace for trimming, but
equally satisfactory results can be se
cured by employing a good grade of
wash fla-nnei at about 12 cents a yard,
with trimming of torchon lace. Do not
use Hambu:g embroidery on wash flan
nel. It docs not wash as well as the
heavy torchon laces. If you do jour
own laundry work, and are sure that
your nightdresses will not be frozen in
the process of drying, use tine striped
designs In blue and w hite and pink and
white. But if your clothHig is at the
more or less tender mercy of an outside
laundress, pin your faith on gray and
white, which will not fade under freex-
; .. .-. Ti. i . .
1114. Atieie 1 e nov some preiiy ue
signs in tan-color and white.
Very Important Is your bedroom
your nightdress If roused In the night
lo attend tires, open the door to late
comers, or heat milk for . the ailing
baby. This may be made of eider
down flannel from practically the same
pattern shown above, but open all the
way down the front, and in a larger
than the nightdress. to permit
size
iiuick changes. Let the sleeves be loose
and bell-shaped, and have either a deep.
rolling collar or no collar at all on this
gown.
Some very beautiful new wash flan
nels, in extra heavy weight at 15 cents
a yard are shown for this purpose.
They have a plain body with beauti
fully stamped borders which can be
used to outline the robe ail the way
round. Including the sleeves. Pretty
Sray-blues. and rose-pinks, eardfnal--t
d and tan-color are shown, with bop
Jers o! Persian design and colorings.
Heside your bed should always rest a
pair of warm slippers to slip on in case
of emergency. Personally, I think there
is nothing better than old-fashioned
frit slippers without heels. They are
much , warmer even than t the sain
Jullettes with quilted lining.
Another useful bedroom adjunct is a
paid of bed-slippers or socks such as
are shown In figure B. These you can
make at small cVst from pieces left
from your nightgown or robe, or from
bottom, securing your full allotment of
pure air and yet be cozy and warm be
neath the covers. .
Another fashion in hygienic living is
exercise outdoors no matter what he
weather, jind this means Warmer out
door lolment than the smart tailored
A WASHABLE DESIGN FOR WINTER NIGHT ROBES.
Fn
remnant of eiderdown. Made of
ouble-faced eiderdown they are ideally
warm and comforting, and most sani
tary, .for they can be washed every
eek.
And finally, prepare for cold nights
and chilled feet, the latter often pre-
ursors of pneumonia or pleurisy, by
wnlng a hot-water bag with a flannel
cover. The last Item is most important.
for who has not known the discomfort
of waking in the night with the uncan
ny feeling of touching something clam
my 1. e., a chilled rubber water bag.
Save pieces from any flannel garment
you may be making and own a cover
for your hot-water bag. Two designs
are shown today, one finished with
straps and the other with a draw
string. If you have no flannel rem
nants In the house, three-quarters of
goods a yard wide will make both -the
water-bag and slippers.
Thus prepared for cold weather, you
can fling your window wide, top and
suit and in fabrics which will with
stand rain and snow.
Kor . this use, a skirt clearing the
ground by at least four inches and a
stout storm coat are essential. Crav
enetted or rainproof cloths can be
bought for from $2 a yard upward. In
52-inch width, and a variety of sub
dued colorings, like Oxford gray and
tan. Two very good models for making
up such fabrics, or the heavy English
worsted, suitable for the same purpose,
are shown in figures C and D. The
gored skirt has a pleasing flare around
the bottom, but (Its snugly over ,the
hips, while the coat has the loose arm
holes essential in a storm coat which,
in cold weather, may be worn over a
sweater or cardigan jacket.
And finally, we are showing a very
good storm coat for the wee girl of the
family who must share outdoor exer
cise with her elders, a coat In minia
ture of the one worn by her mother.
MARY DEAN.
but an hour Is far better. Here are
a, few suggestions for macaroni dishes,
so acceptable at this season of the
year:
Italian Macaroni Boll enough maca
roni for the famiiy for about an hour,
and wnen cooked 'drain it off into an
other sauce pan and pour over it half
a cup of melted butter. In another
saucepan stew a can of tomatoes until
dorie, strain through a fine sieve and
thicken with a tablespoon of browned
butter'and flour. Season with Salt and
red pepper to taste. Put the macaroni
In a deep dish and pour the thickened
tomatoes over it. then cover the top of
the dish with' grated cheese. Serve at
once.
Chicken Saute With Asparagus Tips.
.Remember in preparing this dish that
it is only Tine course' of your luncheon
menu, so when you have drawn and
wiped your chicken dry, cut It Into
sm.il! sections, discarding the back and
neck for future use in making stock.
Cut the breast into at least three pieces
and do not use the giblets at all.- Melt
two tnblespoons of clear bacon drlp-
ings and lay the ehlgken In this, turn-
g it often, so that it mellows In the
bacon grease but does not fry brown.
Cover, set on the back of the stove
and steam half an hour. It should not
be permitted to burn 'down. Roll each
piece separately In fine bread crumbs
already seasoned with salt and pepper.
Pour off any liquid or 'broth that may
be left In the skillet to use in the
gravy and add fresh bacon grease or
a little butter, or both. Brown th.
chicken in this grease, remove, drain
and arrange on a hot platter. To the
drippings left in the pan add one ta-
blespoonful of flour, rub smooth and
then add whatever liquor you may
have poured from the chicken and
half a cup of rich, sweet milk or thin
cream. When this comes to a boil add
one cup ot canned asparagus tips which
have been drained, a pinch of ground
mace, a few drops of lemon juice and
the yolk of one egg. Just as it comes
to a boll, and before the yolk of the
egg curdles, pour over the. chicken
and serve piping hot.
Murshmallow Cream.
Here is a very delicious and attract
ive dessert. Buy half a pound of fresh
inarshmallows and cut into pieces
about a quarter of an inch square.
Have ready a third' of a pound of nut
meats, almonds, pecans and English
walnuts, ground In a meat grinder.
Mix' these with the marshmallows,
blending them by stirring In lightly the
white of one egg whipped to a stiff
froth. Have ready a rather shallow
cut glass bowl. Put a layer of the
marshma-llow mixture first, then one of
Malaga grapes, seeded, another layer
of the marshmallews and nuts, and
finally a sprinkling of shredded .pine
apple the canned is best or Mara
schino cherries, cut fine. Chill in the
ice-box and serve with whipped cream,
the latter in a separate bowl.
Macaroni Croquettes.
This is a very good way of using up
left-over macaroni. Take about two cups
of the cooked macaroni and chop It quite
fine, and If it Is not soft enough, add a
little white sauce to it. Heat It in a
sauce-pan over slow fire, season highly
with salt and red pepper and add a little
grated cheese to it. Take out and shaje
into long croquettes, roll them first in
bread crumbs not cracker dust then In
the beaten yolk of an egg, then in the
bread crumbs once more. Let them dry
for a fe w moments, and fry in deep fat.
Serve on a platter with drawn butter, and
sprinkle powdered cheese over It. Par
mesan cheese Is best, but English cheese
will answer the purpose.
Fashion Facis in Face-Framing
OT IN years, one might almost say
generations, has Fashion played
such mad pranks- with the femin
ine face. Eccentric styles in ' hairdress
ing. extreme modes In neckwear, well
nigh Impossible lines in hats, these, with
wear the peculiar combination of pom
padour and Psyche knot now In vogue.
Again, you may have bought a most
beautiful set of puffs, perfectly matching
your hair, and you proceed to lay them,
like half a dozen highly burnished little
1 . - -
The Social Demands on Married Couples
'-.HE question so often arises In the
family circle as to whether the hus
band must do this or the wife do
that, and generally speaking the husband
'lips out of most of his obligations, leav
ing the wife to bear a double social bur
den. But there are certain social duties
hich are exp.H-ted and should be de
manded of both.
A man is very apt to come home some
- evening and say: '-I wish you would go
and call on Jones' wife. He;s a good
friend of mine in business and I think
you might help me out to that extent.
The proper way to solve such a problem
is for that man to ask Jones when he
and his wife will be at home, adding
that with his wife he is coming around
some evening to make the call. The fact
that the two men know each other would
relieve an otherwise very trying and dull
situation. .
Again the fretful father tomes home
at night and asks his wife: "Who is that
inap calling on Etheir' Of course the
mother should know whq is calling on
her daughter, but It is none the less the
duty of the father to know the young
man. I do not mean that it is necessary
for either or both the father and mother
to sit In the parlor the entire evening,
hut the head of the house should know
.every young man who Is calling on his
daughter. It him go Into the drawing
room informally and chat with the caller
a few minutes, long enough to judge if he
is the right sort. And if he is not the
right sort, then let him Inform li is daugh
ter of that fact the next day. and when
the undesirable young man calls again
Kthel can easily send word that she Is
not at home.
When -a young girl Is introduced into
society at a tea or reception, even if
the affair is In. the afternoon, the father'
ps well as the mother, should be In evi
dence In the receiving line. He cannot
Jay the entire responsibility on the
shoulders of his wife. At such a tea,
both men and women are invited, and as
a rule a great many young men attend,
hence the father should be In sight play
ing his part of host, just as the wife
does her share of the duty as hostess. The
invitations to such a reception contain
only the names of Mrs. Parker Smith and
Miss Smith, hut Mr. Smith must be at
liome and do all in his power to make the
affair a success.
Every man and woman who pretend to
do the proper thing in a social way should
have correct calling cards. Married cou
ples need three sets. The card of the
wife should read "Mrs. Walter Edward
Blank." In the lower right-hand corner,
her address should be engraved and if
Storm Coat for Child
she has a day at home this should be en
graved on the lower left-hand corner. The
husband should have his cards reading
"Mr. Walter Edward Blank" with no
house address.
There should then be a third card read
ing: "Mr. and Mrs. Walter Edward
Blank." with the address In the lower
right-hand corner, but -eliminating any
day at home. All cards should be en
graved on heavy, dead white bristol
board In old English type. For calling
and for general purposes. It Is better to
use the two single oards, but the card
bearing the name of both husband and
wife Is used for sending wedding gifts,
and In sending joint regrets to Invitations.
Frequently such a card Is enclosed with a
wedding invitation to indicate where the
bride now lives and where the presents
may be sent.
When a husband and wife call on an
other couple, they leave one of the wife's
cards and two of the husband's. This
signifies that Mrs. Smith calls on Mrs.
Jones and tnat Mr. Smith calls on both
Mr. and Mrs. Jones. A woman never
leaves a card for a man. As soon as a
death is announced among friends or ac
quaintanoes cards of both husband and
I wife or one of their Joint cards should be
leiat tne nouse. occasionally a brier
expression or sympathy is written across
the card, but it Is better form to write
nothing on them.
If the death occurs In your own .city
the caids should be left personally, not
mailed, but of course if the friend lived
out of town, the cards should be mailed
immediately upon receiving the sad news.
The man who finds himself left a
widower with one or more daughters
and sons to bring up must decide upon
one of two plans he must either have
some elderly woman come and live in .the
home and take up the duties of the
mother, or lie must constitute himself
both father and. mother to his children.
Young girls are not capable of making
the right kind of friends, and -they should
not be allowed to go out with' every man
who asks them, nor to entertain every
man who wants to call. Tb,e father must
act aa their chaperon, and must keep a
watchful eye on his girls. He should
know every man that they know, he
should know when they get In at night
from the theater, and he should know the
parents of all their girl friends.
Unless a girl Is well along in her twen
ties and has already been out a season
or more with her mother to act us guide,
it is far better for the father tp ask
some elderly relative to come and live
with them. A girl just blooming into
womanhood needs the constant influence
of an older woman.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Hints on Shopping
R
ECENT Importations include:
plush in neutral tones for school girls.
Waistcoats made of American beauty
satin or velvet, to be worn with black
costumes. These waistcoats are buttoned
up the front with black velvet buttons or
those made of cut jet.
High stock collars of Irish or filet lace
with turnover of bright satin, finished off
In front with a tiny, stiff bow of the
satin. A two-inch, soft ruching Is then
sewed inside the collar. '
Lounging robes for cold days made in
kimono style and cut from a silk-and-
wool blanket. These blankets are sold in
all department stores, and come In pale-
pink and white stripes, light-blue and
white plaid and other dainty combina
tions.
Buttons to trim tailored suits are
covered with matching cloth and then
outlined with a metal . rim which fits
over the mold exactly. This is much
newer than the bone rim Tised last year.
Dyed laces are again in vogue, and even
real Irish has found its way to the dyers.
The latter is used for trimming heavy
Some Timely Recipes
LONG COAT WITH DEEP ARMHOLE FOR STORM USE.
Handy Bedroom Trifles for Cold Weather
broadcloth dresses, dyed to match the
cloth.
The smartest and by far the newest fad
for bridesmaids is an arm bouquet of
American beauty roses, tied with about
six or eight yards of wide, light blue
ribbon, which falls in soft loops from the
arm. The effect with the pale gowns is
exceeding chic.
Macaroni Dish.
In order to make macaroni at all
palatable it should always be put into
water that Is boiling "on the Jump"
and very highly seasoned. Otherwise
It will develop' soggy dough. Another
mistake that many cooks are apt to
make is not cooking macaroni long
enough. Many authorities will tell you
En Ooniino. -
Indianapolis Neat.
I.ady In th touring car,
How we wonder what you are!
Underneath those yards ofveil
Are you flushed or are you pale?
Or have we with many freek
I.s behind that veil to reck?
And your, no doubt, ample jhar
Of that crowning glory, hair.
Is It dark, or H Is fair
Or some queer, uncertain shade.
Which somehow has seemed to fade?
What behind those goggles wide
Are the beantles that they hide
In the way of lustrous eyes
I.Ike the midnight or the skies?
Or are they of doubtful hue,
mixed green, yellow, drab and blue?
And the form swathed in that coat.
Which makes it seem, so remote.
Is It sylphllke In its way,
Or mora like a bale of hay? -
Lady in the touring car, ,-...
We might guess on what you are
If we choose;
But why should we fancy mar?
It would be an awful Jar
If we'd lose.
the restoration of earrings to a place of
honor In tire jewel case, are making it
somewhat difficult for the woman of quiet
tastes to be" in style or the woman of or
dinary good looks to save herself from
the charge of looking absurd.
The extreme styles of dressing the hail?
and neck must be avoided by any one
save the woman so strikingly beautiful,
so p'erfect in features, that her physical
charms do not pale under extreme fash
ions. A safe rule for any girl to follow
fs to study the result of her make-up
from a point at least five feet from a mir
ror and a full-length mirror, if possible.
In dressing the hair and neck close to a
small mirror the small or sectional view
may be very pleasing, but a long-dis
tance, full-length view, taking in the en
semble, will destroy the illusion.
For instance, If you' dress your hair
In a Psyche knot, with a classic parting
and a filet or twists of tulle, the front
and back view when seated at your'mir
ror.may be very good. But directly you
rise, the slope of your shoulders, the
fashion of your gown, or the side view-
may be absolutely atrocious.
Now suppose that you have seen a girl
with a perfectly plain, symmetrical pom
padour which was most becoming. You
try the same effect, and, viewed from
the front, with the pompadour brushed
smooth until each hair gleams like satin.
you really look very well. But stand up
before a full-length mirror and get a
side view, not of your pompadour alone,
but of your entire make-up. And what
do you see? Every irregularity of feat
ure and figure emphasized by the severe,
uncompromising line of that beautifully
groomed pompadour.
Now take out the enormous'rat, break
the hair a little to the right or left of
the center, curl lightly a few of the
shorter hairs, especially above the -ears
and at the nape of the peck, and see how
much more girlish and gentle your feat
ures are, how your defects are softened.
Only the woman of classic features can
sausages, right across that pompadour.
Now, that is not the resting-place for
puffs, except in a shop window. Break
the line of pompadour or knot at the
back of your head until it is soft and
girlish looking, and then mix In the puffs,
leaving one In the form of a short curl,
until they seem part of your own hair,
not an accessory. A well-bred woman
Good Design for Rainy-Day Skirt.
does not mark her artificial hair, however
expensive, as such.
- Be very careful about adding ribbons,
twists of tulle and ornaments to your
coiffure. I have seen girls at the theater
with bows which stood out like the horns
of His Satanic Majesty, and gave their
faces a leering look. Remember that any
coronet efect, whether in tulle, flowers or
jewels, requires an elaborate hairdressing
and an evening frock. Do not mix coro
net hairdresslngs and shirtwaists.
As to neck dressings, bear in mind that
the new ruches must fit the neck per
fectly. There is nothing more trying
than a sloppy, loose-fitting ruche. If you
are tall and thin, with narrow face, wear
the snug-fitting ruche. If you are rotund
and chubby, adopt the long, narrow Ja
bot of lace or net.
Never wear an earring nuless you have
a pretty, well-shaped pink ear. The first
office of the earring is to attract attention
to the ear. and the woman with a homely
feature does not want to attract attention
thereto. Screw earrings are mote be
coming than those which are hung from
the lobe of the ear. The woman with a
long, narrow face, and especially a long
nose, must never wear the long, pendant
earrings because they give a youthful
look to the flesh. Rubies make the flesh
take on a dusky hue.
If the eara are prominent and non
too pretty In shape, try waving the hair
or rolling It just above and back of the
ears, but not in a severe, plain pompa
dour against which the ear will stand out
more ugly than ever.
As to hats. Just one word of warning.
Do not be persuaded Into abandoning th
bandeau under your hat unless you aro
16. pretty and reasonably tall. The ma
tronly figure under the unraiscd hat In
one of the freaks of 1MS-9.
KATHEKIN'K MORTON.
The Burden of Too
Much Eating
The Hone of ratlngr Hetween
Men In and at Ms;ht.
Northwestern Christian Advocate.
ND It Is alarming when one con
siders how much eating must bo
done In order to keep the social
and political and church and lodge life
in a healthy condition nowadays. The
time was when hospitality was a pleas
ure, but now It is a burden under which
the women are sinking by hundreds
every day. The average housekeeper
of the land wants to keep pace with the
procession and have her children enjoy
as many advantages as possible, so she
drives her tired body to the w'ork and
undertakes tasks far beyond her time
and strength. If the neighbors serve
refreshments, so must she, and if the
neighbors' children have little parties
and picnics, and taffy scrapes, so must
her children. It is eat, eat. on every oc
casion, till one wonders if in time the
three meals a day of the family will not
be abolished because people have no
appetites for them. "We'd all be glad to
do away with the usless eating, hut we
can't do it," said a weary housekeeper.
'As it is, we have to do the best we
can and hope for better times."
Real hospitality suffers from tins ex
cessive eating. Everything is reduced
to the give-and-take system, that tig-
idly keeps account ot each entertain
ment and pays it back as promptly as
, possible. We cannot ask 'our friends
because "we are not Indebted to them."
and when we do entertain, we try to
take In as many as possible to whom
we are indebted and have it over with.
The guest who dares to "drop in" un
announced Is a very courageous person,
and even near relatives are fonuincf
the habit of eating at hotels and res
taurants rather than expect a welcome
if they happen to be in time for meals
but cannot announce their coming.
They have learned that It Is the only
safe plan. The hostess who uncom
plainingly provides wafers and lees for
40 persons, dislikes to have a friend
drop in without warning at meal time,
and few people are guilty of such
a thing nowadays. We cheerfully do a
wholesale business along the line of
hospitality, but will have nothing to da
with the retail part of It. In a church
of 500 members the committee appoint
ed to find entertainment for over Sun
day for the new pastor almost gave up
In despair in hunting a hostess. Just
as they were about to give up and send
the minister to a hotel, one woman
came forward with a doubtful state
ment that she would take lilm if she
had to, but would not be imposed upon
again. This sounds strange when one
remembers the "Prophet's Chamber" of a
generation or two back, when the min
ister was an honored and welcome
guest in almost every home.
Eating between meals and late at
night only heaps up trouble for the In
dividual who Indulges, and for his fam
ily as well. In the days gone by child
ren were supposed to be In bed by 8
o'clock and to give their waking hours
to school and work and play, but tit
present the children act very much like
their elders They have their clubs,
their social affahs. and their church
organisations, but the mothers are tho
ones who prepare the refreshments for
all the meetings, and the mothers who
nurse them through troubles brought
on by too much eating and losing sleep.
The woman who takes a cup of tea and
a wafer during the afternoon has her
appetite destroyed for the evening
meal, and the man who drinks hot cof
fee and eats cheese and rye bread anil
the various other viands served at
"smokers" will surely suffer next day.
The overworked stomachs of the pres
ent generation are responsible for
much of the unrest and lack of enjoy
ment in life. No wonder foreigners
say we take our pleasures sadly. How
else can we take them when they are a
burde'n to us? Perhaps we will some
day go back to the delightful custom
of meeting occasionally without the
duty of eating too much, but it Is
doubtful. However, let us live in hope.
Hot Way to Repair Gloves.
A mistake that is oftenmade is mend
ing gloves with silk.
At any notion counter you can get for
15 cents a plait of cotton threads of
various colors, especially intended for this
purpose. With it should be kept a small
piece of wax, a thimble, a glove mender
and a paper of regular glove needles,
which have the points slightly flattened.
Slip these in the top bureau drawer,
where you will not have to hunt for them,
and if you are putting on a glove to go
out and see that a thread is broken,
showing only the tiniest hole, stop rlgh:
there and mend It. It won't take but a
few seconds, 'and It you let It go the rip
Is bound to become longer and the edge'
of the kid will roll and then the glove
will always show that It has been re
paired, no matter how carefully It Is
done.
Macaroni With Tomatoes.
Break Into short lengths macaroni
enough to fill a large coffee cup, and
dash Into pot of boiling water which If
well salted. Cook until tender, and stir
very often at first to keep from stick
ing to the botttom of the pot. When
cooked, drain off all the liquor, put the
macaroni into a porcelain kettle, and add
one cup of either beef or chicken stock
and one cup of tomatoes which have been
rubbed through a colander. Let this
simmer for 20 minutes, or until the liquor
Is well absorbed. Add to it half a cup
of grated cheese, one tablespoon of butter,
salt and red pepper to taste, and serve
very hot.