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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 29, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 29, 1908. Oil PERTINENT SUGGESTIONS FOR CHRISTMAS SEWING there mas E HAVE reached the point where here are actually styles in Christ - gifts. In fact, the Otiristma-a present ran be- a modish as the new ion morn at the holiday cotillion or It can be as hopelessly behind the time. We can all remember the Christmas when nearly every member of the family, however lrr. received padded coat hangers. Then came a erase for bags. Thfs Year there seems to be le?s of run on any one thine, but nevertheless yon ran keep your gift-sewing strictly uptodate. riven In dressing; dolls, making apron, concoctm hand-wrought lingerie, there ate at vie and styles, and that is Jus mhv we are offer Ins; today some desiim for doll raiment, lingerie, dress accessories and nkwear. all tuned up to the very hour, the very moment. Incidentally d nt foricct that the chosen fabrics of th day have a satiny finish, that shiny things l:k rhlnesionea ore in vogue, and tha f.ided color! n irs. such as ashes of thi and dregs of that, are preferred to thu caver hues. Every mother, or auntie, or Indeed any. one who has a little girl on her list will be delighted with the chic little costume fvr a lady doll which we show today. The sewing; box will be sure to contain arraps of dainty goods from which th costume can be evolved, but even If It should be necessary to buy new material t!ie fiuantfty required for both gown and con t would be t h ree yards of med ; ti m w tdth good. Remember th;it the littl girl wants her doliy to be uptodate. and 1t Is better to make the dress of one good: and the coat of another. In spite of th apparent elaboration of this costume, it i really verv simple, as the skirt is circu lar and could be cut all In one piece. The coat la also cut In one piece, absolutely without any seams. The trimming may h eliminated from the skirt and touches of bright banding; put on the blouse only. All children love the soft woolly ani mala that are now supplanting ts dear little dollies to a great extent. Tney are particularly appropriate for the smill ttys hi the family. The Buster Brown dojr and the faithful old tabby, are newer fian the "Teddy bear. The cat should be made of white plush or white '"Teddy n-nr" cloth, which will be found In aU department stores. If this involves - too much expense, then cotton flannel .In rrav. white or yellow will answer the purpose. If the child is very young. white only should be used, as he Is apt to nut the liitle beast in his mouth. It would take three-quarters of a yard of goods the width of flannel to make the cat. The dog; could be made of brown plush If you want him to be a smart-looking ptilldog. or white flannel could also e used and brown and yellow spots painted nn It. To stuff these animals old rag ran be u.-ed. cotton batting or even ex- r lsior. Tue love of animals Is so deeply Implanted In most children that no toy Is so sure of a cordial welcome as one of lhs miniature beasts. The set of scarfs and muffs which we show today will aupeal to both the school girl and the girl who Is through with college life. There are so many materials friMii which they can be made this year that the si:Cr's:lon seems to be particu larly prartiral. Not only can large sets e-f old furs be remodeled, but there are ninny cloths nn the market which imi tate fur exceedingly well. There is at pr.-sent on the market a "pony-skin cloth" that is so good an imitation of the real skin that I have known people to feci of It to make sure just what It was. Broad tail plush is another material Imitating fur. Tuese St-is can a!.-o be made of v-!vet or satin, trimmed with chiffon frills. The scarfs should be Interlined with soft thin wadding;, while the muff Mould be stuffed with down. Kither of ticse sets would make a most acceptable present for the outdoor girl. Knr the stay-at-home girl the fancy pron is always a delight. For years we have all been wearing aprons with a band about the waist, but today we Jiave something new In the princess model. The tucked mode' should be given to the t hln girl, while the one with the plain front should go to her stout sister. Dotted Swiss and cross-barred dimity are the i materials now used in the smart shops for ' these fancy aprons. The dimity should he trimmed with German Val. lace and the dotted Swiss with Point de Paris lace In rather a fine pattern. Both the indoor and the outdoor girl will be grateful for some waist novelties, for it has been so often and so truly tut id that tt is the accessories that make or mar a costume. We are shawing three sets todar suitable for various occasions. The stiff tailored model can be made of colored linen, button-holed In white cot ton, or of pompadour silk with pearl but tons, the scallops being stitched about wth two rows of tine machine stitching as a fJtfich. The shorter Jabot Is extremely dainty, made of embroidered batiste in either ecru or pure white. The two frills should be joined together with a row of beading and narrow black velvet ribbon coming. The one shown today Is a com bination of the kimono and empire style of garment. Because this model requires no fitting. It may be made at home by any unskilled worker. The yoke and sleeves are cut In one piece, and the shaped flounce fits the upper portion ex actly. If you get the proper bust sise It is sure to fit. These jackets can be made of any material from dainty lawns o i ill! w I iff ii' . 71 EMPIRE HOUSE JACKET. in through this with bow at the end. heavy flannels. Of course in silk they are The Irmger jabot should be evolved from ; extremely pretty. It requires about five plain net in either ecru or white. The Iges should be finished off with a narrow Val. lace, not over half an inch in width, or a little gilt lace or fancy silk braid. If gilt braid Is used to edge the frill, then tiny gilt buttons should be sewn down the front. Every woman, old and young, likes to yards of very narrow silk to make this garment, four yards and a" quarter of flannel. If any of my readers would like patterns of any of these suggested Christmas gifts, I win gladly tell them where they may be procured upon receipt of stamped and self-addressed envelope. But write at own a pretty negligee, and the fact that once, for remember it takes many days she may wear it only within the seclu sion of her own room does not alter the fact that she wants it attractive and be- I to get an answer, and I cannot reply to Jl inquiries by return mail. MART DEAN. Laying Beauty Foundations a Maternal Duty HAT a perfect dear:' ex claims an admiring caller as the baby girl Is brought forth for inspection. "Ye, the doctor says her features are almost perfect," replies the complacent mamma, as she hands Miss Baby back to the nurse. "You know, my great frratj.imother was a famous beauty, and tny grandmother was a Southern belie, eo baby comes by her beauty natural- Having done lur duty by providing f er little daughter with beautiful an cestors, the pretty mother resumes her jooial life and leaves Babbykins more or less to the mercies of a nurse, to Vhom she pays a liberal salary. And right there starts the endanger ing of Miss Baby's beauty. The baby features, the baby expression. Is so mobile that unintelligent care can mar the beautiful work of the Creator. Even mothers who pride themselves on their devotion to their children and the fact that no ignorant nursemaid ever invades the sacred precincts of the nursery, a! low their children to form habits whU h fatally mar what might be an attractive if not a beautiful face. Kor instance, the other afternoon as I walked through the park when it was flooded wu.. sunshine, I was fairly ap palled at the things mere babies were doing. Here was a dear little tot of a year lying face upward with the sun pouring straight Into Its unprotected ei. No doubt It had the strength to roll over, but it did not know enough to do so- So. while nursemail was chatting about a ball she had attended the night before Babbykins lay there with her little 'ace screwed up, her eyes squinting horribly, all her fea tures distorted. Now, of course, one experience like thi is not harmful, but a n urse who Is careless one day will e careless another. She may never l.ave been warned igalnst allowing the sun to shine directly into Miss Baby's tender eyes. At le.t. sh flew- Into a rase when I spoke i her about It in a most courteous way. Further down the line I found two tnothTS talking salad dressings while littl girl of 12 moitha lay In her cab sucking two fingers in a most pe culiar position. The back of the hand was toward the baby's chin, the palm turned outward and the tips of the first two fingers thrust under the upper gums. Can yoti imagine how that child's upper jaw and teeth will pro trude when she is older? Even sci entific dental surgery may not cure the defect. And yet the mother Insisted that she let baby form this ugly habit because a baby that sucks its thumb is always good-natured! A third baby lay asleep on Its back, with its mouth wide open. Us fists flung up above its head. This child must have passed Its first birthday fcy sev eral months, yet obviously the mother saw no harm In her sleeping In this unhygienic position and with the mouth wide open. Perhaps by merely turn ing the child on its side and lowering the little arms, the mouth might have Buster Brown Dog. been closed. If not. then the child needed the attention of a physician. Open-mouth breathing frequently Indi cates the presence or adenoids In the throat, or catarrh, or some ailment which should be eradicated while tiie child Is young. The bow-legged children I counted that afternoon made my heart ache. One woman with whom I chatted ac tually said it did not make much dif ference with a girl her skirts would cover the crooked lefts! Just as If the fln-st skirt created by Parisian modiste J could make a bow-legged woman walk gracefully! This shocking defect often comes from allowing a child to walk too soon. It is also caused 'by rickets, a bone disease for which a child should have immediate treatment. In this age of endowed clinics, excellently managed hospitals and expert surgery, there is absolutely no excuse for allowing a child to remain deformed. The excuse which some parents offer that they do not like to subject the child to the pain of an operation or wearing braces, is futile. The blow to the pride of that boy or girl when grown up will be a thousandfold worse than a few weeks of physical suffering now. One thing In the mother of today which I have never been able to under stand is the belief that all babies are more or less subject to diseases of the scalp. This Idea belongs in the dark ages of motherhood. If a baby's scalp is diseased it means thin hair, and in the case of a girl the loss of her crown ing glory, luxuriant locks. If dandruff or scales appear on the baby's head, try first of all pure olive oil. Rub the scalp gently with this, and allow It to stay on over night. When bathing the baby next day loosen the dandruff or scales toy gently massaging the scalp, make a good lather with pure white soap, work this well Into the scalp, rinse carefully many times with tepid water, and pat the Bcalp dry by the aid of soft old linen whh-'h has been warmed. Do not dig at the baby's scalp with a fine-toothed comb, and if the scalp aliment will not yield to olive oil, con sult a skin specialist. n.ATHRIXE MORTON. Cleaning Furniture Now that the windows will be kept closed the greater part of tha time and most of the heavy housecleaning is done, it is high time to give the furniture some attention. There are many proprietary polishes on the market, but care should be taken in selecting those with no Injuri ous ingredients in them. The great secret of applying any polish la the amount of "elbow grease" employed. Without doubt the more you rub, the brighter will be the wood. A very good home-made polish for var nlshed furniture consists of equal parts of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. This must be applied with a heavy flannel rag and rubbed into the wood until all traces of the oil disappear. One of the best pol ishes for old mahogany can also be mixed at home. It is said to work miracles with old wood. The formula is as follows: Two ounces of butter of antimony, two quarts of good cider vinegar, one-half pint of linseed oil. one-half pint of ale (beer will not do). Mix the antimony with the oil, then add the ale, put in half-gal lon bottle, and shake vigorously with the rinegar. In applying tills polish, fill small bottles with the well-shaken mixture, ap ply with soft rags and rub until the de sired polish is secured. Bamboo furniture should: be washed in warm salt water. All cane-seated chairs and matting furniture can be treated in this way cane chairs should be well sat- Walst Accessories. urated and turned upside down to dry. ine dampness will stiffen them, and bv inverting the chairs the sunken effect will be removed in the drying process. To freehen up leather chairs so much used in dining-rooms and libraries, first wipe the leather off with a cloth damp ened with warm water to clean off all dirt and dust. Let it dry thoroughly. Now take a small old cloth, dipped In the stiffly beaten white of an egg, and go over the leather quickly, . rubbing with considerable strength. .' cut furniture may be clpaned with a paste made from whiting and alcohol. This must be rubbed off quickly before It dries, and flannel cloths should be used. White stains on polished wood which are often caused by hot dishes, can sometimes be successfully removed by an application of pure glycerine. White enameled furniture should be wiped off with warm euds. If the stains will not yield to this treatment, shake a GOOD FORM: THE YOUNG MAN AND SOCIAL SUCCESS LETTER of Inquiry from a young man rather flatters the writer of this department, and certainly it is a hopeful eign. The American youth has been made so conceited and confi- really wants to know what is the 'right thing to do Is, therefore, the sincerest form of flattery a writer on etiquette can receive, and why I am glad to learn that the young man of today is beginning W: p. Practical Outdoor Sets. little whiting on your damp cloth. At the end of this process, the enamel should be rubbed dry with a clean woolen .cloth. Tapestry covered furniture will clean by using dry bran. This must be shaken over the covering and rubbed off with a clean brush. This process should be re peated several times. Brocaded coverings should be gone over with a rag soaked In gasoline, then rubbed quite dry with an other clean rag without any lint. Chains in New Styles New York Press. Many stunning effects are. seen In the new long chains composed entirely of links of white enamel studded at inter vals with sapphires and finished by a tiny watch carried out in like design. These white enamel chains are of the most delicate workmanship, and are among the newest fancies in jewelry. Those who like magnincence and col or in rings will appreciate the circlets that are made of. five rows of gems. DOLL'S OUTFIT. dent of his powers by girls that he is very apt to scorn good form sign posts and think that, like the king? he can do no wrong. The confidence of a young man who to realize that he can be improved by a little grooming in manners. The college boy has ranked ae a sort Of lord of all he surveys, and despairing matrons in need 6 dancing men for their cotillions have forgiven rudeness which would have made our grandmothers place the participant upon their blacklist. But we seem to be finding our social level or balance once more, and men are waking up to a realization that "the right thing" Is expected of them as well as of their dancing partners. A young man asks: "At a house whero I visit occasionally the elder son always pulls out his mother's chair and seats her at the table. Why? She is ntrfMiv well." A well-bred maVi always draws out the chair for his hostess or the woman who 6its next him at table, unless plenty of servants are in waiting for this purpose. It matters not whether the woman Is of his own family or an outsider, he pays her this compliment and courtesy. Nor does he sit down at table until his hostess and ail women are seated. "When yoi entertain a girl at a res taurant, who takes her wraps, the man or the waiter?" There is no hard-and-fast rule, but the man does the courteous thing, if the girl Is quick to slip off her wrap, a waiter may get to her side and take the wrap first. If she moves with delibera tion, her escort generally assists her with the wrap and turns it over to the attend ant in waiting, then removes his own overcoat and hands this in turn to tile waiter. "Who orders the meal at a hote! or res taurant?" The man defers to the woman, asking her whether she has any preference as to dishes. If she expresses a preference, he builds the menu around that one dish, selecting other dishes which will not clash and Invariably asking her whether she likes this or that. A clever girl will often leave the matter entirely to her escort, who then keeps the order within his financial limitations and yet chows good taste In selecting dishes. It is a real art to order an economical lunch or Bupper and have it worthy the "onlleet girl." "What expected of a man on the streetcars?' This is a comprehensive question in deed, and one which is discussed con stantly in the daily press. So far as escort duty is concerned, the man allows the woman to precede him into the car, helping her on by supporting her under the elhow. On leaving the car, the man goes first and offers a supporting hand as the woman steps down. If the car is crowded and a stranger offers a seat to the woman, her escort acknowledges the courtesy by raising his hat. In many cities young men would not think of remaining seated in a streetcar when women were standing, but now that so may women have invaded the business world and crowd the cars during rush hours, they are often forced to share the discomforts as well as the financial re turns of a business career, even to stand ing in cars while men sit and read. How ever, no well-bred man ever remains seat ed when an elderly woman or a woman with a baby or little children remains standing. Neither does the young man who proffers his seat to a strange girl follow up the advantage by trying to flirt with her. "When walking on the street with two girls, does the man walk in the middle or on the outside?" " On the outfide always. And. In escort ing a young woman on the street after night, he allows her to take his arm, never takes her arm. "If a young man Is very busy, is It positively necessary for him to pay a dinner call?" It certainly is. If he can tear himself away from business long enough to break bread with his hostess and her other guests, he can find time on another eve ning or some Sunday afternoon within a i fortnight to call. No deviation from this rule is permissible. "When does a man wear white gloves?" After 6 P. M... with evening clothes. Gray gloves are worn to afternoon func tions, chamois gloves or heavy brown gloves with business suits. "Does a man state his intentions to tho girl or her parents first?" Here in America young people are given much license in settling affairs of the heart. The man proposes to the girl first and then asks her hand of her father, or the mother, or whoever may be the head of the house, in case the father has died. The American man, however, who Is woo ing a girl of foreign family, will do bet ter to ask permission of the parents to propose to the daughter. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Timely Recipes Princess Aprons. The first row may be of diamonds, fol lowed, by sapphires, rubies, emeralds and completed again by diamonds. Such rings as these appeal to the lover of somewhat barbaric splendor and are certainly examples of the magnificent in the jeweler's art. Beautiful designs in bridge and chatelaine purses are among the most striking novelties in the Autumn jew elry. A bridge purse, for instance, composed of fine gold chalnwork, has a rim of mercury wings studded in pearls and diamonds. A smaller but still more costly purse consists of a glittering net work of scintillating diamonds, ending In one large pearl drop, while the rim Is of gold studded with fine emer alds. This is an exquisite example of artistic jewelry and the fortunate re cipient of such a bridge purse is likely to arouse much envy on the part of her less fortunate friends. Chatelaine purses and bags are carried out in plat inum in shades of dull green and srold. arranged in stripes and checks. Many or mem are stuaaea in alternate lines of diamonds and rubles and all are of the most costly and beautiful order. Pe"ach Delight. Butter the bottom and sides of a shallow baking dish., Slice stale bread rather thin and cut in a round shape with a tin cutter. Cover the bottom of the dish with these. Open a can of peaches and on top of each piece of bread -lay half a peach the side from which the pit has been re moved uppermost. Pill each cavity with a spoonful of brown sugar and a small piece of butter. Put in the oven and bake slowly, occasionally adding more sugar. Just before they are quite cooked add a teaspoonful of any kind of sweet jam to each peach. Serve in the pudding dish " very hot. with whipped cream or a rich foamy sauce. Steamed Chocolate jPuddloar. Cream together one cup of sugar with half a cup of butter and add to this the yolks of two eggs which have been beaten light; then add one cup of milk. Melt one ounce of chocolate over a dish of hot water and add this to the batter. Sift two cups of flour and add. to It two teaspoons of baking powder and beat into the mixture until perfectly smooth. Whip the whites of the two eggs to a stiff froth and add lastly. Put a heaping tablespoonful of this mixture into a small cup. set the cups in a pan of hot water and steam for three-quarters of an hour in slow oven. Serve with the following sauce: Cream together one cup of pow dered sugar and half a cup of butter, add one teaspoon of vanilla and gradu ally add half a cup of rich milk or thin cream. Place the bowl in a basin of hot water and constantly stir this sauce un til It Is smooth and creamy no longer. Baked Orange Pudding. One cup of sugar, large tablespoon of butter, two eggs and one and a half cups of milk, two cups of flour and two teaspoons of baking powder, flavor with the greated rind of .two large oranges. Bake until golden brown in a brisk oven. Serve with the following sauce: Four large tablespoons of sugar, two of butter and one of flour. Cream these three ingre dients together until perfectly smooth. Beat the white of one egg to a froth and add it, pour over the mixture half a cup of boiling water, stirring the mix ture until it Is creamy and allowing no lumps to form. Have prepared two large oranges, from which all the peel and skin have been removed, also the pits, andchop them in small pieces. Remove the sauce from the lire and add these oranges. Serve the pudding piping hot in the pudding dish, have sauce in sep arate dish and pour a goodly lot over each portion. Queen Pudding. Take one pint of bread crumbs, one quart of milk, a coffee cup of sugar, the yolks of four eggs and the grated, rind of one large lemon. Beat together the yolks of the eggs, the sugar and the lemon until thoroughly blended, then add the bread crumbs and milk. Bake until a golden brown. When the pudding is done beat the whites of four eggs with four tablespoons of sugar un til perfectly stiff. Now over the top of the pudding spread a thick layer of cur rent jelly or a: tart raspbery jam and over this spread the whites of the eggs. Set in oven again long enough to brown the top. Cheat nut Dreaaing. Select 50 large, plump chestnuts. Take off the outer Up-to-Date Trifles Grey Tabby Cat. shell, throw them Into a deep bowl and pour boiling water over them to loosen the skin. It should slip off as a beet peel does, between thumb and finger. Drop the blanched nuts into salted boil ing water enough to cover them and simmer until tender. Drain and chop very fine. Remove tire marrow from two bones, cut very fine and mix with the nuts. Add salt and pepper to - taste. Moisten slightly with sweet cream or new milk and fill the turkey by the aid of a big spoon. Do not pack in the dressing with your hand. THE latest wrinkle in shoes Is high boots of suede to match the gown. In slippers, black patent leathuz with pink, blue, lilac or white suede, a quarter of an inch deep outlining the top. In automobile veils, dull grays, browns and yellows of chiffon cloth with two- inch borders, the latter spangled with gold or silver paillettes. -In net veils, white mesh with black spots, gathered under the chin into black satin ruch. which holds It about the throat. In trimmings and bandings, cloth of gold strips embroidered In, Persian colors. In hand bags, tooled and embossed -leather with Kgyptian colorings and de signs, made into long narrow bags on gold frames. In .bureau and sideboard scarfs, Eng lish eyelet work on very heavy white , linen, with insets of Irish crochet and Irish edging to match, finished with tas sels. In neck chains, ropes of pearl, jade, coral and turquoise beads in graduated sizes, finished with loop tassels of tiny beads. In rhinestone pins, a huge bowk not has supplanted the horseshoe design. In hair ornaments, choux of tulle or maline, powdered with rhinestone beads and finished with matching aigrette In embroidered robes, paneled effects finished with fringe. In fancy collars, what Is known as "The Devil Collar." made of black sa;ln. lined with red. These collars are cut In many gores, flaring at the top and show ing touches of the red about the throat. To be worn only by the girt with tne long neck. In severe tailored hats, big black bea vers, trimmed only with a bunch of pea cock feathers, sewed on the left side of the hat. and a large button mold cov ered with cloth of gold tacked on to cover up the place where the feathers have been sewn on with heavy thread. In add blouses to wear with tailored suits, colored net. tucked all over and made over a white lining, finished off with collar, cuffs and lapel on left side of pompadour silk In harmonious shades. MARY DJCAN.
