THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, NOVEMBER 29, 1908.
Oil
PERTINENT SUGGESTIONS FOR
CHRISTMAS SEWING
there
mas
E HAVE reached the point where
here are actually styles in Christ -
gifts. In fact, the Otiristma-a
present ran be- a modish as the new
ion morn at the holiday cotillion or It
can be as hopelessly behind the time.
We can all remember the Christmas
when nearly every member of the family,
however lrr. received padded coat
hangers. Then came a erase for bags.
Thfs Year there seems to be le?s of
run on any one thine, but nevertheless
yon ran keep your gift-sewing strictly
uptodate.
riven In dressing; dolls, making apron,
concoctm hand-wrought lingerie, there
ate at vie and styles, and that is Jus
mhv we are offer Ins; today some desiim
for doll raiment, lingerie, dress accessories
and nkwear. all tuned up to the very
hour, the very moment. Incidentally d
nt foricct that the chosen fabrics of th
day have a satiny finish, that shiny things
l:k rhlnesionea ore in vogue, and tha
f.ided color! n irs. such as ashes of thi
and dregs of that, are preferred to thu
caver hues.
Every mother, or auntie, or Indeed any.
one who has a little girl on her list will
be delighted with the chic little costume
fvr a lady doll which we show today.
The sewing; box will be sure to contain
arraps of dainty goods from which th
costume can be evolved, but even If It
should be necessary to buy new material
t!ie fiuantfty required for both gown and
con t would be t h ree yards of med ; ti m
w tdth good. Remember th;it the littl
girl wants her doliy to be uptodate. and
1t Is better to make the dress of one good:
and the coat of another. In spite of th
apparent elaboration of this costume, it i
really verv simple, as the skirt is circu
lar and could be cut all In one piece. The
coat la also cut In one piece, absolutely
without any seams. The trimming may
h eliminated from the skirt and touches
of bright banding; put on the blouse only.
All children love the soft woolly ani
mala that are now supplanting ts dear
little dollies to a great extent. Tney
are particularly appropriate for the smill
ttys hi the family. The Buster Brown
dojr and the faithful old tabby, are newer
fian the "Teddy bear. The cat should
be made of white plush or white '"Teddy
n-nr" cloth, which will be found In aU
department stores. If this involves - too
much expense, then cotton flannel .In
rrav. white or yellow will answer the
purpose. If the child is very young.
white only should be used, as he Is apt to
nut the liitle beast in his mouth. It would
take three-quarters of a yard of goods
the width of flannel to make the cat.
The dog; could be made of brown plush
If you want him to be a smart-looking
ptilldog. or white flannel could also e
used and brown and yellow spots painted
nn It. To stuff these animals old rag
ran be u.-ed. cotton batting or even ex-
r lsior. Tue love of animals Is so deeply
Implanted In most children that no toy
Is so sure of a cordial welcome as one of
lhs miniature beasts.
The set of scarfs and muffs which we
show today will aupeal to both the school
girl and the girl who Is through with
college life. There are so many materials
friMii which they can be made this year
that the si:Cr's:lon seems to be particu
larly prartiral. Not only can large sets
e-f old furs be remodeled, but there are
ninny cloths nn the market which imi
tate fur exceedingly well. There is at
pr.-sent on the market a "pony-skin cloth"
that is so good an imitation of the real
skin that I have known people to feci of
It to make sure just what It was. Broad
tail plush is another material Imitating
fur. Tuese St-is can a!.-o be made of
v-!vet or satin, trimmed with chiffon
frills. The scarfs should be Interlined
with soft thin wadding;, while the muff
Mould be stuffed with down. Kither of
ticse sets would make a most acceptable
present for the outdoor girl.
Knr the stay-at-home girl the fancy
pron is always a delight. For years
we have all been wearing aprons with
a band about the waist, but today we
Jiave something new In the princess model.
The tucked mode' should be given to the
t hln girl, while the one with the plain
front should go to her stout sister. Dotted
Swiss and cross-barred dimity are the i
materials now used in the smart shops for '
these fancy aprons. The dimity should
he trimmed with German Val. lace and the
dotted Swiss with Point de Paris lace In
rather a fine pattern.
Both the indoor and the outdoor girl
will be grateful for some waist novelties,
for it has been so often and so truly
tut id that tt is the accessories that make
or mar a costume. We are shawing three
sets todar suitable for various occasions.
The stiff tailored model can be made of
colored linen, button-holed In white cot
ton, or of pompadour silk with pearl but
tons, the scallops being stitched about
wth two rows of tine machine stitching as
a fJtfich. The shorter Jabot Is extremely
dainty, made of embroidered batiste in
either ecru or pure white. The two frills
should be joined together with a row of
beading and narrow black velvet ribbon
coming. The one shown today Is a com
bination of the kimono and empire style
of garment. Because this model requires
no fitting. It may be made at home by
any unskilled worker. The yoke and
sleeves are cut In one piece, and the
shaped flounce fits the upper portion ex
actly. If you get the proper bust sise It
is sure to fit. These jackets can be made
of any material from dainty lawns o
i ill! w
I iff ii' .
71
EMPIRE HOUSE JACKET.
in through this with bow at the end. heavy flannels. Of course in silk they are
The Irmger jabot should be evolved from ; extremely pretty. It requires about five
plain net in either ecru or white. The
Iges should be finished off with a narrow
Val. lace, not over half an inch in width,
or a little gilt lace or fancy silk braid. If
gilt braid Is used to edge the frill, then
tiny gilt buttons should be sewn down the
front.
Every woman, old and young, likes to
yards of very narrow silk to make this
garment, four yards and a" quarter of
flannel.
If any of my readers would like patterns
of any of these suggested Christmas
gifts, I win gladly tell them where they
may be procured upon receipt of stamped
and self-addressed envelope. But write at
own a pretty negligee, and the fact that once, for remember it takes many days
she may wear it only within the seclu
sion of her own room does not alter the
fact that she wants it attractive and be- I
to get an answer, and I cannot reply to
Jl inquiries by return mail.
MART DEAN.
Laying Beauty Foundations a Maternal Duty
HAT a perfect dear:' ex
claims an admiring caller
as the baby girl Is brought
forth for inspection.
"Ye, the doctor says her features are
almost perfect," replies the complacent
mamma, as she hands Miss Baby back
to the nurse. "You know, my great
frratj.imother was a famous beauty, and
tny grandmother was a Southern belie,
eo baby comes by her beauty natural-
Having done lur duty by providing
f er little daughter with beautiful an
cestors, the pretty mother resumes her
jooial life and leaves Babbykins more
or less to the mercies of a nurse, to
Vhom she pays a liberal salary.
And right there starts the endanger
ing of Miss Baby's beauty. The baby
features, the baby expression. Is so
mobile that unintelligent care can mar
the beautiful work of the Creator.
Even mothers who pride themselves
on their devotion to their children and
the fact that no ignorant nursemaid
ever invades the sacred precincts of the
nursery, a! low their children to form
habits whU h fatally mar what might
be an attractive if not a beautiful face.
Kor instance, the other afternoon as
I walked through the park when it was
flooded wu.. sunshine, I was fairly ap
palled at the things mere babies were
doing.
Here was a dear little tot of a year
lying face upward with the sun
pouring straight Into Its unprotected
ei. No doubt It had the strength to
roll over, but it did not know enough
to do so- So. while nursemail was
chatting about a ball she had attended
the night before Babbykins lay there
with her little 'ace screwed up, her
eyes squinting horribly, all her fea
tures distorted. Now, of course, one
experience like thi is not harmful, but
a n urse who Is careless one day will
e careless another. She may never
l.ave been warned igalnst allowing the
sun to shine directly into Miss Baby's
tender eyes. At le.t. sh flew- Into a
rase when I spoke i her about It in a
most courteous way.
Further down the line I found two
tnothTS talking salad dressings while
littl girl of 12 moitha lay In her
cab sucking two fingers in a most pe
culiar position. The back of the hand
was toward the baby's chin, the palm
turned outward and the tips of the
first two fingers thrust under the upper
gums. Can yoti imagine how that
child's upper jaw and teeth will pro
trude when she is older? Even sci
entific dental surgery may not cure the
defect. And yet the mother Insisted
that she let baby form this ugly habit
because a baby that sucks its thumb
is always good-natured!
A third baby lay asleep on Its back,
with its mouth wide open. Us fists flung
up above its head. This child must
have passed Its first birthday fcy sev
eral months, yet obviously the mother
saw no harm In her sleeping In this
unhygienic position and with the mouth
wide open. Perhaps by merely turn
ing the child on its side and lowering
the little arms, the mouth might have
Buster Brown Dog.
been closed. If not. then the child
needed the attention of a physician.
Open-mouth breathing frequently Indi
cates the presence or adenoids In the
throat, or catarrh, or some ailment
which should be eradicated while tiie
child Is young.
The bow-legged children I counted
that afternoon made my heart ache.
One woman with whom I chatted ac
tually said it did not make much dif
ference with a girl her skirts would
cover the crooked lefts! Just as If the
fln-st skirt created by Parisian modiste J
could make a bow-legged woman walk
gracefully!
This shocking defect often comes
from allowing a child to walk too soon.
It is also caused 'by rickets, a bone
disease for which a child should have
immediate treatment. In this age of
endowed clinics, excellently managed
hospitals and expert surgery, there is
absolutely no excuse for allowing a
child to remain deformed. The excuse
which some parents offer that they do
not like to subject the child to the
pain of an operation or wearing braces,
is futile. The blow to the pride of that
boy or girl when grown up will be a
thousandfold worse than a few weeks
of physical suffering now.
One thing In the mother of today
which I have never been able to under
stand is the belief that all babies are
more or less subject to diseases of the
scalp. This Idea belongs in the dark
ages of motherhood. If a baby's scalp
is diseased it means thin hair, and in
the case of a girl the loss of her crown
ing glory, luxuriant locks. If dandruff
or scales appear on the baby's head,
try first of all pure olive oil. Rub the
scalp gently with this, and allow It to
stay on over night. When bathing the
baby next day loosen the dandruff or
scales toy gently massaging the scalp,
make a good lather with pure white
soap, work this well Into the scalp,
rinse carefully many times with tepid
water, and pat the Bcalp dry by the
aid of soft old linen whh-'h has been
warmed.
Do not dig at the baby's scalp with
a fine-toothed comb, and if the scalp
aliment will not yield to olive oil, con
sult a skin specialist.
n.ATHRIXE MORTON.
Cleaning Furniture
Now that the windows will be kept
closed the greater part of tha time and
most of the heavy housecleaning is done,
it is high time to give the furniture some
attention. There are many proprietary
polishes on the market, but care should
be taken in selecting those with no Injuri
ous ingredients in them. The great secret
of applying any polish la the amount of
"elbow grease" employed. Without doubt
the more you rub, the brighter will be the
wood.
A very good home-made polish for var
nlshed furniture consists of equal parts
of boiled linseed oil and turpentine. This
must be applied with a heavy flannel rag
and rubbed into the wood until all traces
of the oil disappear. One of the best pol
ishes for old mahogany can also be mixed
at home. It is said to work miracles with
old wood. The formula is as follows:
Two ounces of butter of antimony, two
quarts of good cider vinegar, one-half
pint of linseed oil. one-half pint of ale
(beer will not do). Mix the antimony with
the oil, then add the ale, put in half-gal
lon bottle, and shake vigorously with the
rinegar. In applying tills polish, fill small
bottles with the well-shaken mixture, ap
ply with soft rags and rub until the de
sired polish is secured.
Bamboo furniture should: be washed in
warm salt water. All cane-seated chairs
and matting furniture can be treated in
this way cane chairs should be well sat-
Walst Accessories.
urated and turned upside down to dry.
ine dampness will stiffen them, and bv
inverting the chairs the sunken effect will
be removed in the drying process.
To freehen up leather chairs so much
used in dining-rooms and libraries, first
wipe the leather off with a cloth damp
ened with warm water to clean off all
dirt and dust. Let it dry thoroughly.
Now take a small old cloth, dipped In the
stiffly beaten white of an egg, and go
over the leather quickly, . rubbing with
considerable strength. .'
cut furniture may be clpaned with a
paste made from whiting and alcohol.
This must be rubbed off quickly before
It dries, and flannel cloths should be used.
White stains on polished wood which
are often caused by hot dishes, can
sometimes be successfully removed by an
application of pure glycerine.
White enameled furniture should be
wiped off with warm euds. If the stains
will not yield to this treatment, shake a
GOOD FORM: THE YOUNG MAN
AND SOCIAL SUCCESS
LETTER of Inquiry from a young
man rather flatters the writer of
this department, and certainly it is
a hopeful eign. The American youth
has been made so conceited and confi-
really wants to know what is the 'right
thing to do Is, therefore, the sincerest
form of flattery a writer on etiquette
can receive, and why I am glad to learn
that the young man of today is beginning
W: p.
Practical Outdoor Sets.
little whiting on your damp cloth. At the
end of this process, the enamel should be
rubbed dry with a clean woolen .cloth.
Tapestry covered furniture will clean by
using dry bran. This must be shaken
over the covering and rubbed off with a
clean brush. This process should be re
peated several times. Brocaded coverings
should be gone over with a rag soaked In
gasoline, then rubbed quite dry with an
other clean rag without any lint.
Chains in New Styles
New York Press.
Many stunning effects are. seen In the
new long chains composed entirely of
links of white enamel studded at inter
vals with sapphires and finished by a
tiny watch carried out in like design.
These white enamel chains are of the
most delicate workmanship, and are
among the newest fancies in jewelry.
Those who like magnincence and col
or in rings will appreciate the circlets
that are made of. five rows of gems.
DOLL'S OUTFIT.
dent of his powers by girls that he is
very apt to scorn good form sign posts
and think that, like the king? he can do
no wrong.
The confidence of a young man who
to realize that he can be improved by a
little grooming in manners.
The college boy has ranked ae a sort
Of lord of all he surveys, and despairing
matrons in need 6 dancing men for their
cotillions have forgiven rudeness which
would have made our grandmothers place
the participant upon their blacklist. But
we seem to be finding our social level or
balance once more, and men are waking
up to a realization that "the right thing"
Is expected of them as well as of their
dancing partners.
A young man asks: "At a house whero
I visit occasionally the elder son always
pulls out his mother's chair and seats her
at the table. Why? She is ntrfMiv
well."
A well-bred maVi always draws out the
chair for his hostess or the woman who
6its next him at table, unless plenty of
servants are in waiting for this purpose.
It matters not whether the woman Is of
his own family or an outsider, he pays
her this compliment and courtesy. Nor
does he sit down at table until his hostess
and ail women are seated.
"When yoi entertain a girl at a res
taurant, who takes her wraps, the man
or the waiter?"
There is no hard-and-fast rule, but the
man does the courteous thing, if the
girl Is quick to slip off her wrap, a
waiter may get to her side and take the
wrap first. If she moves with delibera
tion, her escort generally assists her with
the wrap and turns it over to the attend
ant in waiting, then removes his own
overcoat and hands this in turn to tile
waiter.
"Who orders the meal at a hote! or res
taurant?" The man defers to the woman, asking
her whether she has any preference as
to dishes. If she expresses a preference,
he builds the menu around that one dish,
selecting other dishes which will not clash
and Invariably asking her whether she
likes this or that. A clever girl will often
leave the matter entirely to her escort,
who then keeps the order within his
financial limitations and yet chows good
taste In selecting dishes. It is a real art
to order an economical lunch or Bupper
and have it worthy the "onlleet girl."
"What expected of a man on the
streetcars?'
This is a comprehensive question in
deed, and one which is discussed con
stantly in the daily press. So far as
escort duty is concerned, the man allows
the woman to precede him into the car,
helping her on by supporting her under
the elhow. On leaving the car, the man
goes first and offers a supporting hand
as the woman steps down. If the car is
crowded and a stranger offers a seat to
the woman, her escort acknowledges the
courtesy by raising his hat.
In many cities young men would not
think of remaining seated in a streetcar
when women were standing, but now that
so may women have invaded the business
world and crowd the cars during rush
hours, they are often forced to share the
discomforts as well as the financial re
turns of a business career, even to stand
ing in cars while men sit and read. How
ever, no well-bred man ever remains seat
ed when an elderly woman or a woman
with a baby or little children remains
standing. Neither does the young man
who proffers his seat to a strange girl
follow up the advantage by trying to
flirt with her.
"When walking on the street with two
girls, does the man walk in the middle
or on the outside?"
" On the outfide always. And. In escort
ing a young woman on the street after
night, he allows her to take his arm,
never takes her arm.
"If a young man Is very busy, is It
positively necessary for him to pay a
dinner call?"
It certainly is. If he can tear himself
away from business long enough to break
bread with his hostess and her other
guests, he can find time on another eve
ning or some Sunday afternoon within a i
fortnight to call. No deviation from this
rule is permissible.
"When does a man wear white
gloves?"
After 6 P. M... with evening clothes.
Gray gloves are worn to afternoon func
tions, chamois gloves or heavy brown
gloves with business suits.
"Does a man state his intentions to tho
girl or her parents first?"
Here in America young people are given
much license in settling affairs of the
heart. The man proposes to the girl first
and then asks her hand of her father, or
the mother, or whoever may be the head
of the house, in case the father has died.
The American man, however, who Is woo
ing a girl of foreign family, will do bet
ter to ask permission of the parents to
propose to the daughter.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
Timely Recipes
Princess Aprons.
The first row may be of diamonds, fol
lowed, by sapphires, rubies, emeralds
and completed again by diamonds. Such
rings as these appeal to the lover of
somewhat barbaric splendor and are
certainly examples of the magnificent
in the jeweler's art.
Beautiful designs in bridge and
chatelaine purses are among the most
striking novelties in the Autumn jew
elry. A bridge purse, for instance,
composed of fine gold chalnwork, has a
rim of mercury wings studded in pearls
and diamonds. A smaller but still more
costly purse consists of a glittering net
work of scintillating diamonds, ending
In one large pearl drop, while the
rim Is of gold studded with fine emer
alds. This is an exquisite example of
artistic jewelry and the fortunate re
cipient of such a bridge purse is likely
to arouse much envy on the part of her
less fortunate friends. Chatelaine
purses and bags are carried out in plat
inum in shades of dull green and srold.
arranged in stripes and checks. Many
or mem are stuaaea in alternate lines
of diamonds and rubles and all are of
the most costly and beautiful order.
Pe"ach Delight. Butter the bottom
and sides of a shallow baking dish., Slice
stale bread rather thin and cut in a
round shape with a tin cutter. Cover
the bottom of the dish with these. Open
a can of peaches and on top of each
piece of bread -lay half a peach the
side from which the pit has been re
moved uppermost. Pill each cavity
with a spoonful of brown sugar and a
small piece of butter. Put in the oven
and bake slowly, occasionally adding
more sugar. Just before they are quite
cooked add a teaspoonful of any kind of
sweet jam to each peach. Serve in the
pudding dish " very hot. with whipped
cream or a rich foamy sauce.
Steamed Chocolate jPuddloar. Cream
together one cup of sugar with half a
cup of butter and add to this the yolks
of two eggs which have been beaten
light; then add one cup of milk. Melt
one ounce of chocolate over a dish of
hot water and add this to the batter.
Sift two cups of flour and add. to It two
teaspoons of baking powder and beat
into the mixture until perfectly smooth.
Whip the whites of the two eggs to a
stiff froth and add lastly. Put a heaping
tablespoonful of this mixture into a small
cup. set the cups in a pan of hot water
and steam for three-quarters of an hour
in slow oven. Serve with the following
sauce: Cream together one cup of pow
dered sugar and half a cup of butter,
add one teaspoon of vanilla and gradu
ally add half a cup of rich milk or thin
cream. Place the bowl in a basin of hot
water and constantly stir this sauce un
til It Is smooth and creamy no longer.
Baked Orange Pudding. One cup of
sugar, large tablespoon of butter, two
eggs and one and a half cups of milk,
two cups of flour and two teaspoons of
baking powder, flavor with the greated
rind of .two large oranges. Bake until
golden brown in a brisk oven. Serve
with the following sauce: Four large
tablespoons of sugar, two of butter and
one of flour. Cream these three ingre
dients together until perfectly smooth.
Beat the white of one egg to a froth
and add it, pour over the mixture half
a cup of boiling water, stirring the mix
ture until it Is creamy and allowing no
lumps to form. Have prepared two large
oranges, from which all the peel and
skin have been removed, also the pits,
andchop them in small pieces. Remove
the sauce from the lire and add these
oranges. Serve the pudding piping hot
in the pudding dish, have sauce in sep
arate dish and pour a goodly lot over
each portion.
Queen Pudding. Take one pint of
bread crumbs, one quart of milk, a coffee
cup of sugar, the yolks of four eggs and
the grated, rind of one large lemon. Beat
together the yolks of the eggs, the sugar
and the lemon until thoroughly blended,
then add the bread crumbs and milk.
Bake until a golden brown. When the
pudding is done beat the whites of four
eggs with four tablespoons of sugar un
til perfectly stiff. Now over the top of
the pudding spread a thick layer of cur
rent jelly or a: tart raspbery jam and
over this spread the whites of the eggs.
Set in oven again long enough to brown
the top.
Cheat nut Dreaaing. Select 50 large,
plump chestnuts. Take off the outer
Up-to-Date Trifles
Grey Tabby Cat.
shell, throw them Into a deep bowl and
pour boiling water over them to loosen
the skin. It should slip off as a beet
peel does, between thumb and finger.
Drop the blanched nuts into salted boil
ing water enough to cover them and
simmer until tender. Drain and chop
very fine. Remove tire marrow from two
bones, cut very fine and mix with the
nuts. Add salt and pepper to - taste.
Moisten slightly with sweet cream or
new milk and fill the turkey by the aid
of a big spoon. Do not pack in the
dressing with your hand.
THE latest wrinkle in shoes Is high
boots of suede to match the gown.
In slippers, black patent leathuz
with pink, blue, lilac or white suede, a
quarter of an inch deep outlining the
top.
In automobile veils, dull grays, browns
and yellows of chiffon cloth with two-
inch borders, the latter spangled with
gold or silver paillettes.
-In net veils, white mesh with black
spots, gathered under the chin into black
satin ruch. which holds It about the
throat.
In trimmings and bandings, cloth of
gold strips embroidered In, Persian
colors.
In hand bags, tooled and embossed -leather
with Kgyptian colorings and de
signs, made into long narrow bags on
gold frames.
In .bureau and sideboard scarfs, Eng
lish eyelet work on very heavy white ,
linen, with insets of Irish crochet and
Irish edging to match, finished with tas
sels. In neck chains, ropes of pearl, jade,
coral and turquoise beads in graduated
sizes, finished with loop tassels of tiny
beads.
In rhinestone pins, a huge bowk not
has supplanted the horseshoe design.
In hair ornaments, choux of tulle or
maline, powdered with rhinestone beads
and finished with matching aigrette
In embroidered robes, paneled effects
finished with fringe.
In fancy collars, what Is known as
"The Devil Collar." made of black sa;ln.
lined with red. These collars are cut In
many gores, flaring at the top and show
ing touches of the red about the throat.
To be worn only by the girt with tne
long neck.
In severe tailored hats, big black bea
vers, trimmed only with a bunch of pea
cock feathers, sewed on the left side of
the hat. and a large button mold cov
ered with cloth of gold tacked on to
cover up the place where the feathers
have been sewn on with heavy thread.
In add blouses to wear with tailored
suits, colored net. tucked all over and
made over a white lining, finished off
with collar, cuffs and lapel on left side
of pompadour silk In harmonious shades.
MARY DJCAN.