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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 22, 1908)
SOME FASHION HINTS FOR THE THANKSGIVING GUEST SLL Journeying and visiting the year round ink Into Insignificance when compared to those of Thanksgiving week. It matters not whether the young foiks are going home to the old. or the old are coming to town to visit the young, whether the working girl Is fleeing the big city for a draajht of country air and a glimpse of "homey" faces, or the petted daughter of millions !s planning a trip in her private car to her dearest enemy In the latter's palatial country home, the Instinct to make the very best appearance Is uppermost in the feminine mind. "I wouldn't have Molly and Jim be ashamed of me for the world." exclaims mother on the farm, as she and the vil lage dressmaker put new silk braid on the oft-remade gown, and add a finishing touch of real lace from the trunk In the attic "I most get my new crepe de Chine blouse finished." murmurs the tired ste nographer, as she turns the lamp up a little higher and gets out her sewing things. "Mother would be so disappoint ed If I didn't wear home something new." "Put In my painted gauze dinner frock and my rope of pearls." Miss Millions bids her maid, then adds herself. "Dolly Dresser's Thanksgiving dinners are ai rways the smartest ever."" And so you see pretty frocks give the 1 turkey gobbler and all his savory trim mings a close run on Thanksgiving day. What will you see in the way of gowns at the dinner table? Something 00ft and supple and shin fng. be sure of that. And hair dressed very low. with many bandeaux or rib bons twisted through softly waved tresses, and the quaintest jewelry in the oddest settings that the family chest will disgorge. The dinner gown of 190S-9 Is a dream of beauty, 'whatever its fabric For the up ! to-date fabrlo Is soft and clinging, cal ' culated to make the wearer look slender Sand made Into a mode which gives the longest possible lines to- the. feminine figure. Above all things the dinner frock must toe either in one piece or give that effect. The girdle must be of precisely the same tone and seem to be a part, not a mere adjunct or accessory of the gown. For the dinner gown, if your purse will permit, choose, crepe meteor or Dl rectolre satin. The former costs $2.30 a yard up, and runs 42 or 45 Inches wide. The second costs from 99 cents a yard up. and Is 3 Inches wide. Mescaline is almost as shlmmery as the Directoire Some Very Valuable Hints for Cleaning the Carpets ALITTLB systematic cleaning each month will preserve the life of a valuable carpet or rug for many years. Many women, in their efforts to live up to the reputation of being good house keepers, literally beat the Ufa out of ex pensive rugs. Handsome rugs should never be put on a line and beaten. They should be laid on the grass and whipped gently. Tiiey should then be turned over and swept with a stiff broom that has been dipped in ammonia water. This brightens the colors. The professional cleaner often finishes off this clearing process by washing them off with olive oil soap and warm water. This seems to give new life to the wool in the rug. The long fringe on Oriental rubs can be washed In the bath tub. Make a warm suds, and dip the fringe up and down In the shallow water, being careful not to knot It. Then hang In the sun to dry. Spots On carpets and rugs should be , removed Immediately and not allowed ; to stand until the next cleaning day. All sticky substances can be removed ' by sponging them with a mixture of alcohol and salt ahfout a teaspoon of alt In a pint of alcohol. Spots . caused by shoe or stove blacking should be covered Immediately with corn meal. l lf! 1; FI9. C Smart Suit for Traveling. oil!' VK Li- t it" $ a teifl . fA vi satin, but Is narrower and can be bought at & cents a yard up. Next to the Various silks, a most desirable fabric IS cash mere In light weight, or even Henrietta cloth, but do not choose a vile this sea son. It would be decidedly passee. A lovely dinner gown fabrlo is silk marqui sette, which should be made over a mes saline lining. Very supple velvets are worn by matrons of middle ago or older, but tiiey are not suitable for younger wo men. Chuion cloth remains popular for dinner frocks to be worn after candlelight, and hand-painted chiffons are among the season's novelties.. Only transparent fa brics are now made up over taffeta lin ings. Many of the heavier silks and satins are made without drop skirts, but conservative women stick to the drop, made from . messaline or a very thin, supple percallne, with a deep facing of the silk, never a ruffle or pleating. A charming trimming for cashmere or heurletta dinner frocks is messaline satin In selftone. with matcning sash, and a tucker and I,-... sleeves of good lace or fine net. Ecru nets embroidered In colors harmonious with the cashmere and a nov elty trimming or passementrle to outline the tucker will give a smart touch to the costume.. Long buckles and slides are much used to set off both silk and velvet gowns, and rhlnestones are used In enormous quanti ties for tooth buckles and buttons. But tons of all sorts and sizes are combined with braid .for trimmings, and fringe Is used almost exclusively on the tunic frocks. ' A very clever Imitation of the one piece frock is shown In Figure A, which Is In every way suited for wear at the Thanksgiving dinner table. ' The fabric employed In the model was a soft golden brown meeAline, with tiny figures em broidered In a slightly deeper shade. A fancy silk braid, matching the em broidered figure, was used to finish the bottom of the skirt, outline the blouse and furnish bows' or the half sleeves. The yoke was of point de Venlse. but any pretty figured net could be substituted. The high corse let skirt Is so draped that It seems to join the folds of the blouse. This frock could be duplicated In any of the plain silks or satins, crepe de chine or cash mere, and for the long-waisted woman a postilion sash could be added. The high-necked gown, of course. Is the only one permissible for the dinner table at noon or thereabouts, but for evening dinners a low-necked frock is In then rubbed with a cloth and finally swept with a stiff brush. Ink spots, if attended to Immediately, can be 1 moved by an application of wet salt. Do not rub the spot, however. If they do not yield to the salt, then apply skimmed milk and salt alternately. The use of tea leaves for sweeping has been abolished toy the wise house keepers as the copperas In them will In time ruin a good carpet. The wise woman spreads. old newspapers over the carpet which she Is going to sweep, first wetting them In ammonia water, about two tablespoons of ammonia to a pall of water. Salt as excellent to sprinkle on the floor before sweeping, as It helps to bring the color back to Its original brilliancy, but It should not be used on a carpet with a heavy nap. For Ingrain tt Is fine. For heavy carpets like axmlnster and velvet, first use the papers dipped In am monia water, and then go over the car pet with a flannel cloth wrung out In borax water. Old pieces of outlnr flannel make the best ranges for cleaning carpets. Next to this is old underwear on which there Is no lint. If It is possible to get a beef gall, this Is excellent for renovating faded and soiled carpets. Many butchers will save one for you if you notify them In advance. Open the gall, tap and pour contents Into a pall of warm water. Throw the bag away. Now wring out heavy cloths In the gall and water mix ture and go over all the carpet, rubbing with a goodly amount of elbow grease. If this method Is used two or three times a yer It will be found well worth while. Savory Iresslngs for Uie Turkey. Oyster Dressing; One large loaf of bread, orumbled fine. Use bread not less than thirty-six hours old. which has been split open or out in slices and allowed to dry out thoroughly. Toss this Into a howl and add two stalks of celery which have been chopped fine, half a pound of melted butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Drain three pints of small oysters free from liquor, add these to the bread and seasoning, and bind the whole together wltli just enough liquor to moisten the bread. It must not have enough liquor to run from It like a juice. Giblet Stuffing Cook the gizzard. heart and liver until tender, drain off the liquor into a bowl and chop the giblets fine. There should be at least two and a half ups of the liquor. Split fifteen large soda crackers and butter them, using at least one-iourtn of a tablespoon of butter to eaoh half cracker. Arrange these In a deep plat ter and pour over, them the hot liquor or stock. As soon as the crackers have absorbed all of the liquor add the chopped giblets and fill the turkey with this dressing. Season Highly with pep per and salt. " . She Cses Slang. Chicago News. She uses slang at time. I grieve to ear. I note the tendency with great dismay. For slang In women Is a thing I hate. Eh thinks, of course, that it Is up to date. The proper language or the gtrl today. But It's bad taste, which girls should not display, When I say that, she says, -Dont get too gay." "Impertinent" seems quits Inadequate; She uses alang. "Nit" U equivalent to "no" or "nay," And things provincial she declares are "Jay;" Then a email-minded person Is a kate! She "hurries?" No. she "hits a. lively gait" Or -beats It" Way it's simply fierce the ay fihe uses slang- better form. A lovely design is shown tor this' purpose, developed in the hand painted chiffon of which I have spoken before. Bordered goods of any supple sort will develop well In this design, but for a low-necked chiffon gown. silk, satin, muJle or chiffon should ba used. Cash meres are a trifle heavy for low-necked FIO. New Trifles THOSE new green beavers, a regular Irish green, trimmed with gros grain ribbon and stiff quills? They are one of the latest offerings In tailor- made hats. Those enormous ball hatpins, made from rhlnestones. In all about as large as a peach? Ton cannot see the metal In which the rhlnestones are set. and they gleam beautifully against the black hats now worn almost exclusive ly for evening Those double ruchtngs of chiffon, or mallne, attached to double bands of velvet ribbon? They come in all the shades of dress fabrics, day and even ing, and the upper ruohe Is narrow, the lower very deep, while the velvet in between is self-tone. Those long, narrow scarfs of mous- seline, net or chiffon cloth, bordered with tiny spangles? They are four or five yards In length and ars so draped over the shoulders or around the arms that you cannot tell whether they are scarfs or directoire sashes. Those postilion girdles, made of very soft messaline or ribbon? They are just the thing to freshen and bring up to date a last season's frown. They may be attached to girdles of any width and should be finished with soft knots or balls of wadding covered- with the silk or ribbon. Those new silver mesh handbags sewed onto "1 collapsible top, which opens something like a urawsu-ingt .i ... . frocks. Lovely printed mulls In bordered designs can be picked up now for a song, and with folds and sash of messaline over silk slips make Ideal dinner gowns. And finally a few tips about the suit in which you Journey to the scene of j Thanksgiving festivities. Be sure you have a rather long coat with pointed tails and a narrow skirt. Tour hat should bo as broad as your skirt is nar row and your wings large, stiff and matching In color the material used in your suit. One of the smartest combina tions Is a suit of London smoke or gray cloth, trimmed -with wide braid and satin buttons, a matching hat trimmed with self-tone velvet and a dash of flame color satin in the folds, and flame-colored wings. MARY DEAN. A GOLDEN BROWN BORDERED MESSALINE. That Are Seen in the Shops They are' newer : than the bags on frames and higher In price. These double ruchlngs or ruffs of heavy ribbon with a bit of fur run through the center for a band? They suggest a way of jislng up a atrip of fur. giving a warm look to an inex pensive neckpiece Those new tropical ajlk flowers al most as big as sunflowers, but with soft petals, used singly or in - twos in evening hats? They come In the softest colorings and have a frosted look. .. Those new coarse mesh veilings In elephant-gray, a pinkish blue most be coming to the average face? This is a, safer selection than the smart new color, London smoke, which gives the face a drab tinge. Those knitted girdles, especially de signed for college girls? They are knitted or even crocheted in one or two tone effects or in gay stripes. MARY DEAN. Opera Glass Bags Xow Spangled. .Opera glass bags are elaborately spangled in fancy patterns or solidly covered with overlapping Incrustations of brilliant sequins to make them look like glittering scales. ' The bass are. rather small and are pointed at the bot tom, while the. top above the cord or drawing ribbon "Is usually cufin scallops. One exquisite bag was solidly covered with golden brown spangles and lined with gold tissue. Another one was in silver spangles, with a Bllver tissue lining and silver ribbons to draw It up. Still another, and one even more elegant than SOME ETIQUETTE HINTS FOR THE THANKSGIVING DINNER HOWEVER much the custom of dining after 6 o'clock has grown In the social world, on Thanksgiv ing day fads are forgotten and the dinner Is served by daylight anywhere between 1 o'clock and 6. Hostesses who are en tertaining house parties generally have a late breakfast, dinner In the mld-after- either of these, had crystal spangles over white satin, with an embroidery design in gold thread. White satin embroidered In gold makes a delightfully dainty bag design. There are no dangling orna ments across the bottom of these bags. They are finished perfectly plain, not so much as a cord being used to outline this part Light colored velvet reticules display the same style of decoration, and they are carried with gowns or coats to match. Old rose velvet, embroidered with dull gold or old rose shaded gold. Is a novel and fashionable combination. .The "top of these velvet bags Is cut In a point like the bottom and there Is always soma little embroidery or spangle decoration across the tip of the point and sometimes outlining the sides. The new bead purses and bass are a marvel of color blendlngs. The work looks like exquisite tapestry, but with a faint sparkle that : characterizes beads. A light wood browrv makes a charming background for the bands of roses. An Alcohol Iron. A tiny alcohol iron for pressing small articles handkerchiefs, collars and ties comes In a nickel case with a lamp and stand, that together are hardly larger than the palm of your hand. The Iron Is of polished nickel and has a handle covered with straw, so that no holder is required. It Is convenient to use when neither gas nor electricity is handy, and the size and compactness of the whole thing makes it most useful. noon, and a light supper served just be fore retiring. "Whether your hostess be your mother or the greatest lady of fashion in, the town, you must stand until she Is seat ed at the table. At formal dinners where the men escort the women into the dining-room, the men must pull out the chair of the women next to them and see that all the ladies are seated first. Per haps the best way to sit at ,a table Is to choose that position .which makes you comfortable. If your chair Is too close to the table your elbows will stick Into your next door neighbor, while if you, sit too far away your back must be crooked. Hence, pull your chair up to a com fortable distance from the table. The habit of ' tucking a napkin under the collar or even at the top of the waist coat is vulgar in the extreme. If people eat properly, slowly, not gulping their food, it will 'be found sufficient to have a napkin in the lap simply "to wipe the fingers on occasionally. A guest at a dinner does not fold his napkin, as it will not be used again. Napkins are folded only by members of a family when they must be used for another meaL Never allow a spoon to stand in a cup. It is well to stir a cup of bouillon and sip It from the spoon to test Its temperature. The spoon should then be laid in the saucer and the bouillon, tea or coffee drunk direct from the cup. Soup is eaten from the side not the tip of the spoon. Soup should be taken ud In the spoon In an outward motion, and the blowing of soup in the spoon Is the height of bad manners. Very few vegetables are now eaten with a spoon many of our smartest hostesses use them only for soft puddings and soups. Even Ice cream la now eaten with a small fork. When the knife and fork are not in use, they should be laid side by side on the plate. If accidents happenr-and they do at the best regulated dinners the apology Is made as short as possible. This is a test of a successful hostess. She should pass the accident by as lightly as pos sible, no matter if her best cut-glass dish was broken. By showing her vexation any woman would prove herself a poor hostess and It would not mend the dish. The fork should be used' with the con cave side turned down. It is not proper to heap more than one 'kind of fond on the fork at a time. The man or woman who has a piece of mat on the fork and Pretty Mouths That Are Born and Acquired SOME fortunate girls are born to pretty mouths. A very few have the much-sung Cupid's bow, with perhaps the added charm of a dimple. Others have a smile which transforms an otherwise plain face". A great many have very commonplace mouths, with no redeeming dimples. And some few, for tunately very few, have large mouths or distorted mouths. But no mouth. is hope lessly ugly. The girl whose mouth is so ugly as to amount to a physical defect should see a surgeon. Sometimes a slight operation may relieve the trouble. Again the teeth may be crooked, distorting the mouth, and here the dentist can give relief. But oftenest of all the mouth is made homely by .facial contortions, the habit of screw ing up the lips when talking, or draw ing the mouth up on one side when laugh ing. The mother of growing children cannot -be too careful In guarding against the formation of such habits, which in later years will sadly mar the appear ance of her daughters, In particular. Whatever the shape of the mouth. Its defects can be balanced In a large meas ure by good teeth! healthy gums and red lips. There Is absolutely no excuse in this age of successful dental surgery for misshapen or protruding teeth and sim ilar mouth defects. With comparatively little pain the teeth can" be straightened, and in case they must be removed be cause of their bad individual shape, new ones will be Inserted bn a bridge, not on an unsightly plate. Another advance In surgery which adds greatly to the beauty of the mouth is the invention of porcelain fillings, which are rapidly replacing the gold ones. Instead of the gold caps once so freely used, up-to-date dentists now screw a new porce lain tooth into the root perfectly patch ing the rest of the teeth in texture and tint. These points should be borne In mind when figuring on dentalwork. The Indiscriminate use of tooth powdera and lotions Is to be deprecated. Never use a patented article of this sort with out consulting your dentist. Some of the "powders which give a fine gloss to the teeth are bound to eat off the en amel In time; A safe and simple tooth powder is precipitated chalk and orris root, which1 any druggist will mix for you In small quantities. Another equally safe, but less pleasing powder is finely shaved Castile soap, one part, and precipitated chalk, two parts. If this powder is used every morning, and then if after each meal and before retiring, the teeth are brushed with tepid water, containing an antisep tic like llsterlne or glycotrymolln. decay can be warded off. If the gums are not firm and of good color, try the following aromatic lotion; Gum mastic . (powdered) 2 drachm. Gum arable (powdered) 2bi drachms. Balsam of Peru. drachm. Orange flower water S ounces. Rub this In a bowl with a wooden spoon until it forms an' emulsion, then. stirring continually, add 3 draenms tinc ture of myrrh. If the breath is tainted, the cause should be ascertained at - once. This terlble affllcdon may be due to one of three things, decayed teeth, catarrh or a disordered stomach. While undergo ing treatment for any of these trou bles, which wll take time, rinse the mouth frequently with a lotion of which salicylic acid forms the basis. Tour druggist can compound such a lotion for you, or .on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope I will be pleased to send the formula' to any of my readers. This is also an excel then attempts to pile mashed potatoes on that, is sadly lacking in correct man ners. The knife Is used for cutting food exclusively, and never, under any cir cumstances whatever, is it used to convey food to the mouth. Oysters and clams are eaten with a small fork made particu larly for that purpose. They are apt to slip from ah ordinary fork, and the regu lar oyster forks have tiny prongs on them to prevent this happening. Quests as well as the hostess should exert themselves to be agreeable to those sitting beside them. It is Impossible for a hostess to talk to a table full of guests, and she naturally depends on her guests to entertain each other. Finger bowls are placed on the table at the conclusion of a meal after the' crackers and cheese and coffee course. If a frult course is served to start the dinner, such as grape fruit, finger bowls should be placed on the table at that time and then removed before another course is served. At the conclusion of the meal, guests use the finger bowls, lift the napkin from the lap and leave it on the edge of the table. The men at the table rise when the ladles leave the table, and then often sit down again for a smoke and. friendly ch3t However, at informal family parties, the men are often allowed to smoke in the presence of the ladies. At informal dinners, it Is quite propr to ask for a second helping of food if It Is desired inded the hostess often con siders this a great compliment to her cuisine but at formal dinners where the food is served in courses, a second help ing Is never asked for. Dishes should never be piled one upon another when the food has been taken from them. The maid who clears the table will do all this guests should never do so. And If knife or fork is accidental ly dropped on the floor, the maid will re-i pi 119 It with another from the sideboard. If a guest does not eat certain dishes of food which are set before htm. let him say nothing. It Is the height of HI manners to announce: "Oh, I never eat macaroni in any form." He makes a pretense of eating It. or lets the dish remain untouched. .' A clever hostess will not remark it. And as for the man and woman who cannot eat this and cannot at that their place is at home and not at the table of friends who give dinners. PRUDENCE STAXDISIt lent lotion to use after meals, espec ially If you have been eating cheese, onions or other articles of diet which have a lingering odor. v , The lips play an Important part In the attractiveness of the mouth, and colorless lips are a real affliction to a girl who takes pride In her appearance. No external application will color the Hps, nor Is It wise to bite or pinch them to secure the desired effect. Tills may give them a temporary flush, but repeated applications of so drastic a remedy result simply in deforming the Hp. If the lips are flabby, sagging ad colorless, a harmless lip salve contain ing a little alkanet root will Improve their appearance, strengthening the tisue and giving just a touch of color, which is much better, than the applica tion of lip rouge. The formula has of ten been given in these columns, but If any of my readers have mislaid It, I will forward a copy on receipt of a stamped and addressed envelope. Larsre protuding lips are a real af- i-flletion, and they can be reduced slight ly at least by the patient use of the following astringent lotion: Buy an ounce of any reliable cold cream, place it in a double boiler and allow It to melt. Add to it one gramme of pulverized tannin and one gramme of alkanet chips'. Let stand ever a very slow fire in the double boiler for five hours, then strain it Into a jar through a. piece of cheesecloth. Rub this into the lips night and morning. . Another very common affliction is a slight hairy growth on the upper Hp. which unless watched and checked will develop into a down which a young man might envy. I do not recommend either electrolysis or X-ray for this. A mild depilatory, formula for which will be furnished upon receipt of self- Laddressed and stamped envelope; or bleaching the hair with peroxide, ot hydrogen is much safer, as the skin on the lip Is tender, and drastic rem edies often leave it lifeless and parchment-like. KATHERIXE MARTIN. rut 1 t-w 1 Figure B Dinner Gown In Bordered Criffon Cloth. JsilB - 1 1 r " I 'k
