SOME FASHION HINTS FOR THE
THANKSGIVING GUEST
SLL Journeying and visiting the year
round ink Into Insignificance when
compared to those of Thanksgiving
week. It matters not whether the young
foiks are going home to the old. or the
old are coming to town to visit the young,
whether the working girl Is fleeing the
big city for a draajht of country air
and a glimpse of "homey" faces, or the
petted daughter of millions !s planning a
trip in her private car to her dearest
enemy In the latter's palatial country
home, the Instinct to make the very best
appearance Is uppermost in the feminine
mind.
"I wouldn't have Molly and Jim be
ashamed of me for the world." exclaims
mother on the farm, as she and the vil
lage dressmaker put new silk braid on
the oft-remade gown, and add a finishing
touch of real lace from the trunk In the
attic
"I most get my new crepe de Chine
blouse finished." murmurs the tired ste
nographer, as she turns the lamp up a
little higher and gets out her sewing
things. "Mother would be so disappoint
ed If I didn't wear home something new."
"Put In my painted gauze dinner frock
and my rope of pearls." Miss Millions
bids her maid, then adds herself. "Dolly
Dresser's Thanksgiving dinners are ai
rways the smartest ever.""
And so you see pretty frocks give the
1 turkey gobbler and all his savory trim
mings a close run on Thanksgiving day.
What will you see in the way of gowns
at the dinner table?
Something 00ft and supple and shin
fng. be sure of that. And hair dressed
very low. with many bandeaux or rib
bons twisted through softly waved
tresses, and the quaintest jewelry in the
oddest settings that the family chest will
disgorge.
The dinner gown of 190S-9 Is a dream of
beauty, 'whatever its fabric For the up
! to-date fabrlo Is soft and clinging, cal
' culated to make the wearer look slender
Sand made Into a mode which gives the
longest possible lines to- the. feminine
figure. Above all things the dinner frock
must toe either in one piece or give that
effect. The girdle must be of precisely the
same tone and seem to be a part, not a
mere adjunct or accessory of the gown.
For the dinner gown, if your purse
will permit, choose, crepe meteor or Dl
rectolre satin. The former costs $2.30
a yard up, and runs 42 or 45 Inches wide.
The second costs from 99 cents a yard
up. and Is 3 Inches wide. Mescaline is
almost as shlmmery as the Directoire
Some Very Valuable Hints for
Cleaning the Carpets
ALITTLB systematic cleaning each
month will preserve the life of a
valuable carpet or rug for many years.
Many women, in their efforts to live up
to the reputation of being good house
keepers, literally beat the Ufa out of ex
pensive rugs. Handsome rugs should
never be put on a line and beaten. They
should be laid on the grass and whipped
gently. Tiiey should then be turned over
and swept with a stiff broom that has
been dipped in ammonia water. This
brightens the colors.
The professional cleaner often finishes
off this clearing process by washing them
off with olive oil soap and warm water.
This seems to give new life to the wool
in the rug. The long fringe on Oriental
rubs can be washed In the bath tub.
Make a warm suds, and dip the fringe
up and down In the shallow water, being
careful not to knot It. Then hang In
the sun to dry.
Spots On carpets and rugs should be
, removed Immediately and not allowed
; to stand until the next cleaning day.
All sticky substances can be removed
' by sponging them with a mixture of
alcohol and salt ahfout a teaspoon of
alt In a pint of alcohol. Spots
. caused by shoe or stove blacking should
be covered Immediately with corn meal.
l lf!
1;
FI9. C Smart Suit for Traveling.
oil!'
VK Li- t it" $
a teifl
. fA vi
satin, but Is narrower and can be bought
at & cents a yard up. Next to the Various
silks, a most desirable fabric IS cash
mere In light weight, or even Henrietta
cloth, but do not choose a vile this sea
son. It would be decidedly passee. A
lovely dinner gown fabrlo is silk marqui
sette, which should be made over a mes
saline lining. Very supple velvets are
worn by matrons of middle ago or older,
but tiiey are not suitable for younger wo
men. Chuion cloth remains popular for
dinner frocks to be worn after candlelight,
and hand-painted chiffons are among the
season's novelties.. Only transparent fa
brics are now made up over taffeta lin
ings. Many of the heavier silks and
satins are made without drop skirts, but
conservative women stick to the drop,
made from . messaline or a very thin,
supple percallne, with a deep facing of
the silk, never a ruffle or pleating.
A charming trimming for cashmere or
heurletta dinner frocks is messaline satin
In selftone. with matcning sash, and a
tucker and I,-... sleeves of good lace or
fine net. Ecru nets embroidered In colors
harmonious with the cashmere and a nov
elty trimming or passementrle to outline
the tucker will give a smart touch to
the costume..
Long buckles and slides are much used
to set off both silk and velvet gowns, and
rhlnestones are used In enormous quanti
ties for tooth buckles and buttons. But
tons of all sorts and sizes are combined
with braid .for trimmings, and fringe Is
used almost exclusively on the tunic
frocks. '
A very clever Imitation of the one
piece frock is shown In Figure A, which
Is In every way suited for wear at the
Thanksgiving dinner table. ' The fabric
employed In the model was a soft golden
brown meeAline, with tiny figures em
broidered In a slightly deeper shade. A
fancy silk braid, matching the em
broidered figure, was used to finish
the bottom of the skirt, outline the
blouse and furnish bows' or the half
sleeves. The yoke was of point de
Venlse. but any pretty figured net
could be substituted. The high corse
let skirt Is so draped that It seems to
join the folds of the blouse. This frock
could be duplicated In any of the plain
silks or satins, crepe de chine or cash
mere, and for the long-waisted woman
a postilion sash could be added.
The high-necked gown, of course. Is
the only one permissible for the dinner
table at noon or thereabouts, but for
evening dinners a low-necked frock is In
then rubbed with a cloth and finally
swept with a stiff brush. Ink spots, if
attended to Immediately, can be 1
moved by an application of wet salt. Do
not rub the spot, however. If they
do not yield to the salt, then apply
skimmed milk and salt alternately.
The use of tea leaves for sweeping
has been abolished toy the wise house
keepers as the copperas In them will
In time ruin a good carpet. The wise
woman spreads. old newspapers over the
carpet which she Is going to sweep, first
wetting them In ammonia water, about
two tablespoons of ammonia to a pall of
water.
Salt as excellent to sprinkle on the
floor before sweeping, as It helps to bring
the color back to Its original brilliancy,
but It should not be used on a carpet
with a heavy nap. For Ingrain tt Is fine.
For heavy carpets like axmlnster and
velvet, first use the papers dipped In am
monia water, and then go over the car
pet with a flannel cloth wrung out In
borax water.
Old pieces of outlnr flannel make the
best ranges for cleaning carpets. Next
to this is old underwear on which there
Is no lint. If It is possible to get a beef
gall, this Is excellent for renovating
faded and soiled carpets. Many butchers
will save one for you if you notify them
In advance. Open the gall, tap and pour
contents Into a pall of warm water.
Throw the bag away. Now wring out
heavy cloths In the gall and water mix
ture and go over all the carpet, rubbing
with a goodly amount of elbow grease.
If this method Is used two or three times
a yer It will be found well worth while.
Savory Iresslngs for Uie Turkey.
Oyster Dressing; One large loaf of
bread, orumbled fine. Use bread not
less than thirty-six hours old. which
has been split open or out in slices and
allowed to dry out thoroughly. Toss
this Into a howl and add two stalks of
celery which have been chopped fine,
half a pound of melted butter, and salt
and pepper to taste. Drain three pints
of small oysters free from liquor, add
these to the bread and seasoning, and
bind the whole together wltli just
enough liquor to moisten the bread. It
must not have enough liquor to run
from It like a juice.
Giblet Stuffing Cook the gizzard.
heart and liver until tender, drain off
the liquor into a bowl and chop the
giblets fine. There should be at least
two and a half ups of the liquor.
Split fifteen large soda crackers and
butter them, using at least one-iourtn
of a tablespoon of butter to eaoh half
cracker. Arrange these In a deep plat
ter and pour over, them the hot liquor
or stock. As soon as the crackers have
absorbed all of the liquor add the
chopped giblets and fill the turkey with
this dressing. Season Highly with pep
per and salt.
"
. She Cses Slang.
Chicago News.
She uses slang at time. I grieve to ear.
I note the tendency with great dismay.
For slang In women Is a thing I hate.
Eh thinks, of course, that it Is up to
date.
The proper language or the gtrl today.
But It's bad taste, which girls should not
display,
When I say that, she says, -Dont get too
gay."
"Impertinent" seems quits Inadequate;
She uses alang.
"Nit" U equivalent to "no" or "nay,"
And things provincial she declares are
"Jay;"
Then a email-minded person Is a kate!
She "hurries?" No. she "hits a. lively
gait"
Or -beats It" Way it's simply fierce the
ay
fihe uses slang-
better form. A lovely design is shown
tor this' purpose, developed in the hand
painted chiffon of which I have spoken
before. Bordered goods of any supple
sort will develop well In this design, but
for a low-necked chiffon gown. silk, satin,
muJle or chiffon should ba used. Cash
meres are a trifle heavy for low-necked
FIO.
New Trifles
THOSE new green beavers, a regular
Irish green, trimmed with gros
grain ribbon and stiff quills? They
are one of the latest offerings In tailor-
made hats.
Those enormous ball hatpins, made
from rhlnestones. In all about as large
as a peach? Ton cannot see the metal
In which the rhlnestones are set. and
they gleam beautifully against the
black hats now worn almost exclusive
ly for evening
Those double ruchtngs of chiffon, or
mallne, attached to double bands of
velvet ribbon? They come in all the
shades of dress fabrics, day and even
ing, and the upper ruohe Is narrow,
the lower very deep, while the velvet
in between is self-tone.
Those long, narrow scarfs of mous-
seline, net or chiffon cloth, bordered
with tiny spangles? They are four or
five yards In length and ars so draped
over the shoulders or around the arms
that you cannot tell whether they are
scarfs or directoire sashes.
Those postilion girdles, made of very
soft messaline or ribbon? They are
just the thing to freshen and bring
up to date a last season's frown. They
may be attached to girdles of any
width and should be finished with soft
knots or balls of wadding covered- with
the silk or ribbon.
Those new silver mesh handbags
sewed onto "1 collapsible top, which
opens something like a urawsu-ingt
.i ... .
frocks. Lovely printed mulls In bordered
designs can be picked up now for a song,
and with folds and sash of messaline
over silk slips make Ideal dinner gowns.
And finally a few tips about the suit
in which you Journey to the scene of
j Thanksgiving festivities. Be sure you
have a rather long coat with pointed
tails and a narrow skirt. Tour hat
should bo as broad as your skirt is nar
row and your wings large, stiff and
matching In color the material used in
your suit. One of the smartest combina
tions Is a suit of London smoke or gray
cloth, trimmed -with wide braid and satin
buttons, a matching hat trimmed with
self-tone velvet and a dash of flame
color satin in the folds, and flame-colored
wings. MARY DEAN.
A GOLDEN BROWN BORDERED MESSALINE.
That Are Seen in the Shops
They are' newer : than the bags on
frames and higher In price.
These double ruchlngs or ruffs of
heavy ribbon with a bit of fur run
through the center for a band? They
suggest a way of jislng up a atrip of
fur. giving a warm look to an inex
pensive neckpiece
Those new tropical ajlk flowers al
most as big as sunflowers, but with
soft petals, used singly or in - twos
in evening hats? They come In the
softest colorings and have a frosted
look. ..
Those new coarse mesh veilings In
elephant-gray, a pinkish blue most be
coming to the average face? This is a,
safer selection than the smart new
color, London smoke, which gives the
face a drab tinge.
Those knitted girdles, especially de
signed for college girls? They are
knitted or even crocheted in one or two
tone effects or in gay stripes.
MARY DEAN.
Opera Glass Bags Xow Spangled.
.Opera glass bags are elaborately
spangled in fancy patterns or solidly
covered with overlapping Incrustations
of brilliant sequins to make them look
like glittering scales. ' The bass are.
rather small and are pointed at the bot
tom, while the. top above the cord or
drawing ribbon "Is usually cufin scallops.
One exquisite bag was solidly covered
with golden brown spangles and lined
with gold tissue. Another one was in
silver spangles, with a Bllver tissue lining
and silver ribbons to draw It up. Still
another, and one even more elegant than
SOME ETIQUETTE HINTS FOR THE
THANKSGIVING DINNER
HOWEVER much the custom of
dining after 6 o'clock has grown
In the social world, on Thanksgiv
ing day fads are forgotten and the dinner
Is served by daylight anywhere between
1 o'clock and 6. Hostesses who are en
tertaining house parties generally have a
late breakfast, dinner In the mld-after-
either of these, had crystal spangles over
white satin, with an embroidery design
in gold thread. White satin embroidered
In gold makes a delightfully dainty bag
design. There are no dangling orna
ments across the bottom of these bags.
They are finished perfectly plain, not so
much as a cord being used to outline this
part
Light colored velvet reticules display
the same style of decoration, and they
are carried with gowns or coats to match.
Old rose velvet, embroidered with dull
gold or old rose shaded gold. Is a novel
and fashionable combination. .The "top
of these velvet bags Is cut In a point
like the bottom and there Is always soma
little embroidery or spangle decoration
across the tip of the point and sometimes
outlining the sides.
The new bead purses and bass are a
marvel of color blendlngs. The work
looks like exquisite tapestry, but with a
faint sparkle that : characterizes beads. A
light wood browrv makes a charming
background for the bands of roses.
An Alcohol Iron.
A tiny alcohol iron for pressing
small articles handkerchiefs, collars
and ties comes In a nickel case with
a lamp and stand, that together are
hardly larger than the palm of your
hand. The Iron Is of polished nickel
and has a handle covered with straw,
so that no holder is required. It Is
convenient to use when neither gas
nor electricity is handy, and the size
and compactness of the whole thing
makes it most useful.
noon, and a light supper served just be
fore retiring.
"Whether your hostess be your mother
or the greatest lady of fashion in, the
town, you must stand until she Is seat
ed at the table. At formal dinners where
the men escort the women into the
dining-room, the men must pull out the
chair of the women next to them and see
that all the ladies are seated first. Per
haps the best way to sit at ,a table Is to
choose that position .which makes you
comfortable. If your chair Is too close to
the table your elbows will stick Into your
next door neighbor, while if you, sit too
far away your back must be crooked.
Hence, pull your chair up to a com
fortable distance from the table.
The habit of ' tucking a napkin under
the collar or even at the top of the waist
coat is vulgar in the extreme. If people
eat properly, slowly, not gulping their
food, it will 'be found sufficient to have a
napkin in the lap simply "to wipe the
fingers on occasionally. A guest at a
dinner does not fold his napkin, as it
will not be used again. Napkins are
folded only by members of a family when
they must be used for another meaL
Never allow a spoon to stand in a
cup. It is well to stir a cup of bouillon
and sip It from the spoon to test Its
temperature. The spoon should then be
laid in the saucer and the bouillon, tea
or coffee drunk direct from the cup. Soup
is eaten from the side not the tip of the
spoon. Soup should be taken ud In the
spoon In an outward motion, and the
blowing of soup in the spoon Is the height
of bad manners. Very few vegetables are
now eaten with a spoon many of our
smartest hostesses use them only for soft
puddings and soups. Even Ice cream la
now eaten with a small fork.
When the knife and fork are not in use,
they should be laid side by side on the
plate. If accidents happenr-and they do
at the best regulated dinners the apology
Is made as short as possible. This is a
test of a successful hostess. She should
pass the accident by as lightly as pos
sible, no matter if her best cut-glass dish
was broken. By showing her vexation
any woman would prove herself a poor
hostess and It would not mend the dish.
The fork should be used' with the con
cave side turned down. It is not proper
to heap more than one 'kind of fond on
the fork at a time. The man or woman
who has a piece of mat on the fork and
Pretty Mouths That Are
Born and Acquired
SOME fortunate girls are born to
pretty mouths. A very few have
the much-sung Cupid's bow, with
perhaps the added charm of a dimple.
Others have a smile which transforms an
otherwise plain face". A great many
have very commonplace mouths, with no
redeeming dimples. And some few, for
tunately very few, have large mouths or
distorted mouths. But no mouth. is hope
lessly ugly.
The girl whose mouth is so ugly as to
amount to a physical defect should see
a surgeon. Sometimes a slight operation
may relieve the trouble. Again the teeth
may be crooked, distorting the mouth,
and here the dentist can give relief. But
oftenest of all the mouth is made homely
by .facial contortions, the habit of screw
ing up the lips when talking, or draw
ing the mouth up on one side when laugh
ing. The mother of growing children
cannot -be too careful In guarding against
the formation of such habits, which in
later years will sadly mar the appear
ance of her daughters, In particular.
Whatever the shape of the mouth. Its
defects can be balanced In a large meas
ure by good teeth! healthy gums and red
lips. There Is absolutely no excuse in
this age of successful dental surgery for
misshapen or protruding teeth and sim
ilar mouth defects. With comparatively
little pain the teeth can" be straightened,
and in case they must be removed be
cause of their bad individual shape, new
ones will be Inserted bn a bridge, not on
an unsightly plate.
Another advance In surgery which adds
greatly to the beauty of the mouth is the
invention of porcelain fillings, which are
rapidly replacing the gold ones. Instead
of the gold caps once so freely used, up-to-date
dentists now screw a new porce
lain tooth into the root perfectly patch
ing the rest of the teeth in texture and
tint. These points should be borne In
mind when figuring on dentalwork.
The Indiscriminate use of tooth powdera
and lotions Is to be deprecated. Never
use a patented article of this sort with
out consulting your dentist. Some of
the "powders which give a fine gloss to
the teeth are bound to eat off the en
amel In time;
A safe and simple tooth powder is
precipitated chalk and orris root, which1
any druggist will mix for you In small
quantities. Another equally safe, but less
pleasing powder is finely shaved Castile
soap, one part, and precipitated chalk,
two parts. If this powder is used every
morning, and then if after each meal and
before retiring, the teeth are brushed
with tepid water, containing an antisep
tic like llsterlne or glycotrymolln. decay
can be warded off.
If the gums are not firm and of good
color, try the following aromatic lotion;
Gum mastic . (powdered) 2 drachm.
Gum arable (powdered) 2bi drachms.
Balsam of Peru. drachm.
Orange flower water S ounces.
Rub this In a bowl with a wooden
spoon until it forms an' emulsion, then.
stirring continually, add 3 draenms tinc
ture of myrrh.
If the breath is tainted, the cause
should be ascertained at - once. This
terlble affllcdon may be due to one of
three things, decayed teeth, catarrh or
a disordered stomach. While undergo
ing treatment for any of these trou
bles, which wll take time, rinse the
mouth frequently with a lotion of
which salicylic acid forms the basis.
Tour druggist can compound such a
lotion for you, or .on receipt of a
stamped and addressed envelope I will
be pleased to send the formula' to any
of my readers. This is also an excel
then attempts to pile mashed potatoes
on that, is sadly lacking in correct man
ners. The knife Is used for cutting food
exclusively, and never, under any cir
cumstances whatever, is it used to convey
food to the mouth. Oysters and clams
are eaten with a small fork made particu
larly for that purpose. They are apt to
slip from ah ordinary fork, and the regu
lar oyster forks have tiny prongs on them
to prevent this happening.
Quests as well as the hostess should
exert themselves to be agreeable to those
sitting beside them. It is Impossible for
a hostess to talk to a table full of guests,
and she naturally depends on her guests
to entertain each other.
Finger bowls are placed on the table
at the conclusion of a meal after the'
crackers and cheese and coffee course.
If a frult course is served to start the
dinner, such as grape fruit, finger bowls
should be placed on the table at that
time and then removed before another
course is served. At the conclusion of
the meal, guests use the finger bowls, lift
the napkin from the lap and leave it on
the edge of the table. The men at the
table rise when the ladles leave the table,
and then often sit down again for a
smoke and. friendly ch3t However, at
informal family parties, the men are often
allowed to smoke in the presence of the
ladies.
At informal dinners, it Is quite propr
to ask for a second helping of food if
It Is desired inded the hostess often con
siders this a great compliment to her
cuisine but at formal dinners where the
food is served in courses, a second help
ing Is never asked for.
Dishes should never be piled one upon
another when the food has been taken
from them. The maid who clears the
table will do all this guests should never
do so. And If knife or fork is accidental
ly dropped on the floor, the maid will re-i
pi 119 It with another from the sideboard.
If a guest does not eat certain dishes
of food which are set before htm. let
him say nothing. It Is the height of
HI manners to announce: "Oh, I never
eat macaroni in any form." He makes
a pretense of eating It. or lets the dish
remain untouched. .' A clever hostess will
not remark it. And as for the man and
woman who cannot eat this and cannot
at that their place is at home and not
at the table of friends who give dinners.
PRUDENCE STAXDISIt
lent lotion to use after meals, espec
ially If you have been eating cheese,
onions or other articles of diet which
have a lingering odor. v ,
The lips play an Important part In
the attractiveness of the mouth, and
colorless lips are a real affliction to a
girl who takes pride In her appearance.
No external application will color the
Hps, nor Is It wise to bite or pinch
them to secure the desired effect. Tills
may give them a temporary flush, but
repeated applications of so drastic a
remedy result simply in deforming the
Hp. If the lips are flabby, sagging ad
colorless, a harmless lip salve contain
ing a little alkanet root will Improve
their appearance, strengthening the
tisue and giving just a touch of color,
which is much better, than the applica
tion of lip rouge. The formula has of
ten been given in these columns, but
If any of my readers have mislaid It,
I will forward a copy on receipt of a
stamped and addressed envelope.
Larsre protuding lips are a real af-
i-flletion, and they can be reduced slight
ly at least by the patient use of the
following astringent lotion:
Buy an ounce of any reliable cold
cream, place it in a double boiler and
allow It to melt. Add to it one gramme
of pulverized tannin and one gramme
of alkanet chips'. Let stand ever a
very slow fire in the double boiler for
five hours, then strain it Into a jar
through a. piece of cheesecloth. Rub
this into the lips night and morning.
. Another very common affliction is a
slight hairy growth on the upper Hp.
which unless watched and checked
will develop into a down which a young
man might envy. I do not recommend
either electrolysis or X-ray for this.
A mild depilatory, formula for which
will be furnished upon receipt of self-
Laddressed and stamped envelope; or
bleaching the hair with peroxide, ot
hydrogen is much safer, as the skin
on the lip Is tender, and drastic rem
edies often leave it lifeless and parchment-like.
KATHERIXE MARTIN.
rut 1 t-w 1
Figure B Dinner Gown In Bordered
Criffon Cloth.
JsilB
- 1 1 r
" I 'k