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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 8, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTLAND, yOTE3IBER . 908 " Z . ,! One-Piece Costume Again in Vogue rw FTER m reign of nearly a decade, the separate skirt is forced Into J retirement, the independent blouse U tossed Into the discard. From the Jumble of Fall fashions, the one-piece coatume. with a practically unbroken line from the shoulder to hem. has emerged triumphant. The we!l-owned woman of the moment builds her wardrobe almost exclusively from one-piece costume, with matching or marmonlous wraps. TTils la not an economical change- by ny means, for there has never been a style so altogether pleasing to the thrifty woman as the tailored or seml-tallored suit with its various separate blouses. Wraps are always an expensive Item in the Fall and 'Winter wardrobe, and with a variety of one-piece costumes, a slml lr variety" of wraos Is almost essential. The wrap which will look well with aher ringbone princess costume la not pre cisely the correct wrap to wear with a costume built from sllk-and-wool texture, supple broadclotn or crepe meteor. In fact, the general use of supple, clinging cloth la Increasing the number of wraps reeded and making the building of tli "Winter wardrobe a most absorbing prob lem. However, as the costume Is the Sthtng. let us consider It for various uses. The semi-tailored costume should come first In every woman's plans, cer tainly In those of the woman who has much shopping to do. or who goes to business each day. The latest demand of Dame Faehlon along this line Is for the princess creation In medium weight cloth, especially r'ch colorings with fine hair stripes of black or deeper hue, made with bias band of satin or with silk braid, and a chemisette and half-sleev.-s of net. either dyed to match the fabric In the costume) of ecru. cream or white. This princess gown Is apt to have a girdle of self-tone silk or soft tm. built high to Simula the popular, s:iort walsted effect, and with It will be worn a long, semi-tilted coat, with rather a short waist line In the back at least. Most of these coats have long skirts cut In deep points, and the really smart ones for hard wear show little trimming be yond the silk braid or satin bands. With such a costume or suit Is worn a hat of beaver, satin or felt, trimmed with breasts and wings, never ostrich tip. A popular trimming for tailored satin hats la the aigrette, and aigrettes sufficient to encircle one of the new satin shapes will cost all of S5. Stun ning breasts and wings in shaded effects to harmonise with all the new shades of cloth can be had at much lower prices and are far more durable. Almost "fussy" are the next set of Cfvtiimes. such as might be chosen for calling, receptions, afternoons at home, club meetings and other Indoor functions. These are of crepe meteor or other nov elty goods with a satin lustre, messaline, broadcloths so supple as to suggest satin Itself, silky nets, chiffon cloths, etc. "While very little material ts required for these gowns, four or five yards of double width cloth being sufficient, the trim mings and nets and fringes are so ex-p-neive that the original cost of the cloth Itself Is a mere bagatelle, compared to the accessories. The Directolre and drapd skirts are In high favor for these one-piece cos tumes, and. while In cutting, the skirt and waist are made separately, they are so cleverly Joined and the Juncture so cleverly hidden by trimming, that the effect Is of a single garment from throat to hem. The draped eklrt Is of circular pattern with a seam down the front. The narrow, sheath skirt has a h as seam straight over his hips. The modified sheath skirt giins In pcpularity and Is very becon-jg to the average fig ure. Sometimes instead of a mere split tip the left side, showing fine pleating beneath, you have a decided suggestion of Greek draperies on the left side, the oienlng outlined by applied trimmings or lringe. As the season advances, more and more fringe Is noted on smart gowns. It started as an edging or finish for sashes, then It was employed to edge tunics, and now it it s-en all over the one-piece cos tume, and In narrow widths outlining stole effects on blouses. In the designs shown today will be found some practical hints for home dressmakers. Figure. A shows a scml princes gown to be worn under a matching tailored coat. The model from which It was drawn was an olive-green mixed cloth of light weight with gradu ated baniia of braid for trimming the slrt. T:ils could be omitted if the gown Is made for a short woman. The rich ecru net, which formed the chemisette and half sleeves, with a bit of the cloth, braided In soutache at the top of the panl and buttons In dull gold stul green enamel completed the trim ming. This would make a good dress for wear undor a semi-fltted coat of the same cloth, for shopping, traveling or to business. Figure B shows a smart development of the one-piece gown in catawba-coi-ored crepe meteor, a fabric which will outwear and outshine the ordinary crepe rte cjiine about 50 per cent. The garniture may be of plain satin or velvet In self tone, braided or embroidered. The The Newest CONTRACT to the expectations of the manufacturers the knit silk ties have held their own In the favor of well-dressed men. They were headed for the discard last Spring when the dealers decided that the sty Is had been overdone: but the pub lic has a way of deciding for itself what It likes, quite Independently of what it should like, and there Is this year as much demand as ever for these scarfs. There is no doubt that the public Is weary of one kind of knit tie. That W the highly colored combina tion in straight or slanting stripes, t.auily rels and blues, yellows and pinks, greens and browns, are out Of favor, but the dark solid colors sre as much worn as ever. There are this j ear even new stitches in the crochet and these form the only variety In the d:irk scarf. Dark blue and purple silk us have an Intricate shell pattern, and the same design relieves the black silk Mrfi as well. In solid colors these silk pes are perhaps the smartest of the "W inter. one of the varieties Imported from Krgland Is a broad plastron or Ascot scarf In these crochetted silks. These are not less than three Inches broad, and are acceptable aa something alto gether new by the men who must have something Just a little different. These scarfs tied in the Ascot fashion, especial ly when they are In very dark green, blue, red or purple, are undeniably smart. Yet there are some drawbacks to them. The silk crochet Is so thick that It makes a very bunchy Us, and then agidn there Is scarcely body enough to make n As cot heavy and firm as it should be. Perhaps the greatest ejection of all to these tls Is the price to. The dealers are trying once more to sleeves and yoke are of tucked net, while a band of the plain satin or velvet, out lined by a simple pattern in braiding is needed to flnisn. it around the foot. In figure C you have. very good sugges tions for remodeling a gown. Perhaps I PRINCESSE you have a long, pleated skirt left from last year with some odd pieces of the material which was not used. Rip up the skirt and. after sponging and press ing, cut out as economically as possible one of the new mounted skirts. With the pieces left from the skirt, which will be not a few If you use a narrow skirt pat- Things in Neckwear for Men bring back the satin four-ln-hand which used to be so popular with men who like elegant but unostentatious dress. Time was when tlie last word in smart dress ing for men was a black satin four-ln-hand. This year they have been put for ward In dark blue, purple still the most popular of colors for men's wear green and magenta. The same material Is also used for the bow or butterfly tics, al though difference In the width of the tie at the ends and In the center Is not now sufficient to make any Illusion of a but terfly in the tied scarf. So far the satin ties have not been much worn in either shape, although prophets of professional stvles say that satin Is the material that will supersede the knitted silk scarfs. One reason that this honor seems due to satin can be found In the failure of the dealers to make the crepe de chine ties & fad. They are beautiful In colors and they knot gracefully, but they are too ex pensive In original price and wear poorly. Two or three wea rings will leave them so wrinkled that they cannot be worn without pressing. An original outlay of 12 or more for a tie that Is capable of so little use Is too much for the average New Yorker. In the cheaper priced neckwear there Is a return to silk as a change from the cheap knit ties. These new scarfs are most striking In the combinations of what manufacturers call "high colors.' The shades could be no more beautiful whatever was charged for them. The two tones of blue, light and dark, of purple and mauve and of two shades of brown, are as pretty as any of the Rng llsh manufactures sent over here st twice the cost. The so-called varsity four-ln-hands which were always striped with the colors of various colleges and Eng lish athletlo associations used to be unique In respect to their combination of color. They are not more attractive, however, than the silks produced here, although they are mad up In a much more modish shape. The home-made tern, and your left-overs from last sea son, you can fashion the parts of this bodice, which should " match Oie skirt, then with the aid of a messaline girdle In self tone, messaline bands, a little sou tache braid and net or- all-over lace, you GOWN. can evolve a matching blouse so har monious that the costume complete will simulate one of the new one-piece gowns. These selftone. girdles and sashes,' as well as the nets dyed to match the cloth or silk In the gown, are first aids to home dressmakers, bent on remodeling gowns. MART DEAN. scarfs of these striped silks are almost Invariably found In the wide end four-in-hands, which Is a shape devoid of smartness except in the crepe sties. If the American manufacturers could only be persuaded to make up these attractive combinations of color In a rather narrow four-in-hand made with the silk the same on both sides, they would have done quite as much as the English makers who for so long had a monopoly of this field. In spite of the successful combinations of beautiful color that are now so cheaply attainable, there is little tempta tion In them to men who aim to be more then ordinarily well dressed. These seek single color effects and of rather sombre tone at that- They pass by the alluring colors so well suited to the Fall season without a regret. That Is only a part of the general tendency of men who try to be well dre.ed to avoid anything conspicuous In attire. Borne of the import ed scarfs for sporting wear have charming combinations of tone especially well suited to the Fall season brown and ma genta for Instance. They are bought and worn In the country, for which they are very well adapted. But the careful ly dressed men at all events those be yond the age of college shun them. Dark solid tones of blue and purple or perhaps a very deep red are alone pos sible In. the opinion of these conserva tive dressers. They follow the earns rule in 'regard to the colors of the string tie or bow. This style has been so neglected dur ing recent years that for one man wear ing one of those ties there are ten with four-ln-hands- Gradually there seems to have come Into existence the belief that these bow ties are adapted - only for Bummer wear, and It Is only at that time one now sees them In any variety or In large numbers. For the black tie which Is worn with the dinner coat there is the same dis cernible attempt to bring back sattn into the fashion. The black satin ties well and Imparts a certain dressiness that the dull black silks never did whether they were plain or brocaded. There is this year the. dull black with any pattern as well as the figured reps and other Bilks. Anything approximat ing the butterfly Is now out of the mode. The black ties for evening wear are only m.i krn.jf. n t the ends than at the ; center. A black tie to be smart must be I at least two inches in width. They are now straight Instead" of pointed at mo eiThls Is also true of the white ties for full evening dress. They come In lawns and piques without any pattern and sometimes with an elaborate allover de sign. But they are smartest when they are made of pique about two Inches broad at the end and cut straight across. The white tie remains the most Im portant feature of full evening dress. A faultless fit In the shirt and waistcoat may be altogether nuliiiied by the poor ly knotted tie. Some Practical Fash ion Don'ts ON'T wear bright-colored gloves. Every year dealers Import a great nink. blue, green and other gaily colored gloves as novelties for ex hibition purposes, but the well-dressed woman never wears them. Don't buy any cretonne trimmings. They were a fad that came In with the warm weather and went out before the Summer was half over. The fashion Is absolutely dead. Brocade has replaced cretonne for vestings. Don't cut handsome material up Into a B-gored skirt. If your cloth is hand some and of fine texture, select a four or seven-gored pattern. Don't buy brilliant-coiorea laoncs iur Winter clothes. Everything tnat is new has a faded hue. Don't wear long gloves over ino mm sleeves now so fashionable. With such sleeves should be worn a two-button glove. .... . . Don t pull your oen une uuwn -point In the front. Everything that ts worn with a belt must be round and rather short-waisted. rwrt wear pale pink and blue tulle and chiffon ruches with heavy tailored suits. Don't have more tnan one saso on dress. Many women have rumea ino ei fect of a good dress by having a sash about the waist, one draped across the bust and perhaps an ena or two at mo back. Don't wear your veils hanging loose at the back of the nead. Veils are pinned tightly over the nat and ends are tucked out of sight. Don't wear artificial iiowers pinnea on your furs. Don't wear tanned shoes with a trained dress. They are for walking and Infor mal occasions only. Don't wear a mushroom nat it you are a stout woman. It will take several Inches from your height. Don't wear distinct stripes if you are a thin woman. And don't apply me inm- ming on your dreeses going up ana oown. Don't wear falsa hair unless It matches your own exactly. MARY DEAN. Some Tasty Pies for ' Thanksgiving OVEMBER Is essentially the month for making mince and pumpkin pies. In fact, mince meat should stand some weeks to gain savor "for the Thanksgiving pies, so it is Just as well to make your mince meat at once enough to last all Winter, if you have a good, cool place to keep it. Mince Meat. Simmer until tender two and one-half pounds of lean beef.. It should make two quarts when chopped, or. better still, passed through a meat grinder. Add to this four quarts of apples, pared, cored and chopped; one cup of chopped citron, four cups of brown sugar, two cups of New Orleans molasses, one cup of suet, chopped very fine or passed through a meat grinder, one nut meg grated, one tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoons of cinnamon, one-half tablespoonful 01 cloves, four cups of sweet cider, or if you use liquor, one cup of Madeira wine and one-half cup of brandy. Pack this Into an earthen ves sel and keep in a cool, dry place. This 1s sufficient filling for 12 pies. For a large family double or triple the quantity can be made. As mince meat of Itself Is very rich, in making your pastry,- add a little baking powder a half teaspoon f nl to every three cups of flour, as this will lighten the dough. . Pumpkin Pie. Canned pumpkin can now be had In a very good grade, and it saves the city housewife the trouble of cooking a rather unwieldy vegetable. If you pre fer to use the fresh pumpkin, however, select one of small size, rather flat at both ends. If you wish to secure the sweeter varieties. Wash, cut open, and remove the seeds and pithy shreds In the center. Cut Into good-sized pieces, add enough water to keep It from sticking to the bottom of a porcelain-lined kettle and set it on the back of the stove to simmer. This wilt require about five or six hours with a slow fire. There should be very little water left when it Is done. Remove the loose skin, and rob the pulp FANCY BLOUSE GIRDLE. through a colander. Set away to cool. For everyii 'e cups of the pumpkin, al low one teaspoon of salt, halt a nutmeg grated, a tablespoon of mace, two tea spoons of ginger and a large cup of sugar. Beat four eggs very l!-ht and add these to the pumpkin pulp, then add very slow ly four cups of sweet milk. Beat until smooth and turn Into deep pie plates lined with lower crust of pastry. Bake three-quarters of an hour, or until Arm In the center. WITH Common Sense vs. Beauty Miracles THIS department does not oner a short cut to -physical beauty nor 1 th writer a worker of miracles. In fact, the days of physical perfection and miracles alike are past. The present generation Is trying to undo the evils of A GRACEFUL GOWN modern living contracted by many pre ceding generations. We have passed through an. aga of dosing and false liv ing -which has reduced sadly the standard of physical being. We are Just getting back to the realization that plenty of fresh air, not steam heat plenty of out door life, not hothouse existence plenty of simple food, not French catering are needed to develop physical beauty. Twenty years of right living will result In a new and fine race of children, but Tact Invaluable Asset in Time of Trouble TACT is an Invaluable asset for the man or woman with social ambi tions. And please bear In mind that tact Is not toadyism. We all know the 'type of girl who hangs breathlessly on every word uttered by the woman of social Influence, or who praises the hideous gowns of the woman whose din ner Invitations she desires to secure. She la the girl who simply toadies. The tactful girl Is not a toady and what Is more she does not have to be. Tact consists of doing the gracious thing In a gracious way at the psycho logical moment when graciousness Is most required. Tact Is forgetfulness of self without "gush." Slang may not be good form, but It is often most ex pressive In an article on good form, and there is no word which will ex press so clearly a certain state of mind and form of conversation as that word "gush." The tactful girl Is the girl we are all glad to see in time of trouble. She will not open the wound afresh. She will not try to belittle our particular form of affliction. And she will not leave the scene of trouble to carry tales. The other night two old-time friends came to the parting of the ways, simply because one was In trouble and the other was not tactfuL And they were men at that! The man In trouble had Just passed through an experience which would try the strongest nerves. The man without tact would have gone all to pieces un der the same experience and strain, but he" did not realize that fact, or more plainly speaking, he did not think for his friend. Instead he strode flippantly Into the presence of the man who was holding his nerves down with a grip like Iron, and proceeded Janntily to remark: "Say, until that time comes, most of us will be seeking means of softening physical de fects which cannot be entirely eradicated. Hence some of the requests which reach me by mail would be farcical if they were not so pathetic. Women who have defied nature now want remedies with OF CREPE DE CHINE. which to outwit her. Women with physi cal defects which would defy the sur geon's knife want to know how to dose themselves and outdo doctors and sur geons in 24 hours. Please bear in mind that this depart ment, as I said before, dees not preach the working of beauty miracles. It sim ply tries to show you that by means of common sense, a healthful life and per sistent use of sane, simple remedies you oaii improve your appearance, minimize vour physical defects and be as attrac tive as iame Nature Intended you to be. I heard a good one about Blank to day." "Heavens, man." answered his friend, "don't tell me funny stories when I'm In this frame of mind." "Oh, you'll be - all over this pretty soon and next year you'll laugh about it." Quite true so kind is Providence in softening bereavement or failure with the balm of time! But Just at that moment the flippant remark was like salt on an open wound. The man in trouble told the tactless man what he thought of him as a comforter, and the tactless man told the troubled man what he thought of a chap who could not laugh In the face of a catastrophe, and the door was banged between them. If only the tactless man had let his friend give vent to his feelings. If he had sat silent or uttered an occasional "that's so." as the tale proceeded, the friend would have been relieved by the process of pouring forth his soul, and they would have gone out for a nerve resting walk, arm In arm. A young man became entangled with a scheming woman much older than him self and was rescued from an untime ly matrimonial fate by a resourceful mother. Among his friends It was agreed .that the affair was not to be discussed in his presence, but one night at a so cial gathering a woman who never loses her chance to laud her own sex re marked tactlessly: "I hear Miss Dash Is to be married to a Buffalo man next week. Well, George, that was a lucky escape for you. Tou ought to thank your mother every day of your life." A sickening silence followed, and ev ery man In the room glared openly or covertly at the tactless young matron whose smug remark had opened an old wound and made every one in the room f"el awkward. The girl who can go Into a sickroom But if you are not willing to live a sim pler, saner life, and to persist for weeks or even months in the use of remedies suggested, you cannot expect Improve ment. For Instance, a woman writes that she looks florid, almost apoplectic, espe cially In evening gowns. She wants a "bleach. Internal or external." A- florid complexion cannot be softened by any bleach. This woman admits that she has taken arsenic Internally, but it has had no effect on her high color. If she took enough arsenic to reduce a naturally florid complexion to pallor she would not live to enjoy her triumph. She must reach the cause of the high oolor, which may be overeating and drinking, tight lacing or the very common prac tice of facial skinning. If the writer eats very rich food and drinks alcoholic liquors, she must grad ually reduce her diet; and her color will fade as the stimulants no longer enter her system. If she laces too tightly or wears very tight collars, she must loosen her corsets and buy larger, lower collars. If she has had her face Bklnned. her case la hopeless. I simply refer to this aa an Instance of the penalty some women pay for submitting to the beauty special ist who . removes the upper cuticle en tirely. Excessive perspiration Is another physi cal defect of which many women com plain. This often comes from nervous ness, and can be reached only by treat ing the nerves, by gaining self-control, by cultivating long sleeping hours and by avoiding that sense of driving one's self every moment of the day. To secure temporary relief and avoid unpleasant odors, bathe the affected parts with warm water In which baking soda has been dis solved, half a teaspoonful of the powder to a quart of water. The woman who has been years acquir ing wrinkles expects that a "real beauty doctor" can fill them out In a few weeks, provided the patient has the price cf the treatment. This Is a cure which money cannot buy. It Ilea In the patience and disposition of the patient First learn what causes your wrinkles. It may not always be time. Tou may have some other ailment which Is dig ging wrinkles Into a skin which should be flawless. Perhaps your feet ache. That will cause a drawn look which will end in wrinkles around your mouth. Perhaps your eyesight Is failing. Squint ing will cause wrinkles around the eyes and crow's feet. Have your eyes exam ined and relieve the strain. Try first to trace your wrinkles to some ache or pain which can be relieved. If this does not exist and It is a ques tion of years, then perhaps you are using the wrong face lotion. The woman with a dry skin should never use a lotion con taining an astringent like borax or ben zoin. Her skin requires a cream that will soften, not draw It. If the wrinkles are very pronounced, the flesh can be fed with tlie following cream, but this must nof be used when there Is a tendency to a growth of hair or down on the face, as lanolin will encourage this growth: Tannin gramme Lanoline 3" grammes Oil of sweet almonds .'...20 grammes Melt the lanoline and oil in a double boiler with as little heat as possible. Remove from the fire and beat in the tannin as the mixture cools. Speaking of superfluous hair, the wo man who has a soft down on face or arms should not attempt any violent means of removing this. The X-ray is used to remove the hair, but it often leaves the skin as dry as parchment. Electrolysis, or the electric needle, is used to pick the hair out, but It Is painful and almost Impossible In case of the soft down. Better far to bleach the tiny hairs by an application of peroxide of hydrogen, nine parts; aqua ammonia, one part. Apply with a camel's hair brush until the hairs are so light that they do not show against the flesh. Moth patches, which next to super fluous hair, count among the common est feminine trials, are often due to torpid liver. Eat quantities of fruit particularly oranges take exercise in the fresh air, and, Internally, use salts under the direction of your physician or a reliable druggist. If the patches are very deep seated, touch the spots with a camel's hair brush dipped in the following bleach: White precipitate 1 dram Subnitrate of bismuth 1 dram Benzoinated lard 1 ounce Have this put up by a responsible druggist, and after using it every night for a week, you will 'find the spots fading. Dull-colored hair, muddy hair, life less hair these all worry middle-aged women. Do pot resort to dyes or bleaches, but ascertain the shampoo best suited to the coloring of your hair and use that faithfully. For hair that should be golden brown use a little peroxide of hydrogen, say a halt teaspoonful in the rinse water. Never use ammonia or borax on dark hair, but a plain green soap shampoo with plenty of clean rinse water. For red hair I have a special shampoo mixture, which formula I will be glad to send on receipt of stamped and addressed envelope. CATHERINE MORTON. and cheer the sufferer without making light of the latter's affliction, who can go Into the house of mourning and show courteous sympathy or perform useful service without becoming maudlin and hysterical, who can soothe, - by a well chosen remark, the feelings of some woman who has Just been snubbed by another person she is the tactful girl. If your friend has Just met with a loss, or passed through some unpleasant ex perience, let her tell you all about It without Interruption. Do not stop her at the end of the first sentence with, "Oh, yes. but I. had a much more se vere attack." The girl who can listen while another party relieves her feelings is tho tactful girl. Remember that for the time being the Individual In trouble cannot get her thoughts from herself. Do not try to per form this miracle for her. She will not thank you. Allow for the mental stress and nerve strain under which your friend is labor ingand do not interrupt nor thrust your own affairs upon her attention. At another time, when she has disposed of her particular problems, she will be glad to listen to your confidences. For the moment, force yourself to concentrate upon her affairs, her troubles. That li tact in time of trouble, a social asset well worth cultivating. PRUDENCE STANDISH. Tta! MIttemt George B. King In LipplncoU's. When I proposed to May She promptly answered "nay;" From flaxen-headed Flo Came a decided "no;" "Wilt marry?" I asked Mary; Her quick response was "nary;" Coy, chio Parisian Jeanne Gave me a nasal "non." I questioned Wllhelmlne; Replied she simply "neln." "W hile breezy Beatrix Made slangy answer, "ix." But jovial. Jolly Jess Blushed, paled, then answered, "Tea"
