Image provided by: University of Oregon Libraries; Eugene, OR
About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Nov. 1, 1908)
THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTT.AT, NOVEMBER 1, 10OS. 7 ,rSZ,L, .I if MHIMM MI1WMIIM ! ' iiiimbi rnm r.aMer,.n. -- taQfe-, TFA Modified Styles Are Now in Demand THE dlrectolre scars Is over. The sheath skirt panlo has subsided. The world feminine has returned to normal, regular heart-beats. Styles for the season of 1908-9 are now fixed. They are simply the extreme styles as shown In September, gracefully modi fled to meet the needs" of the conserv ative American woman. From the very start of the sheath skirt panic, I have maintained In these columns that no well-bred, sane Ameri can woman would ever consider the mode seriously, neither, would she ac crpt the extreme dlrectolre styles. The heath skirt baa been seen only upon the stag and then in each productions as featured the feminine form divine. rather than dramatic Interest or virile actinic It is now relegated, along; with 6alome dances, ' to the has-beens of a theatrical year barely begun. The dlrectolre modes have left stronger influence, but only la such general effects as snugger skirts, bigger , reveres and long, narrow Sleeves. The exaggerated dlrectolre hat the wide swathing sash, the Inter minable train have all been tabooed by well-dressed women. The sheath skirt now appears only tn tunic effects, or an outer skirt of soft; clinging fabric put up on one side to display not "sheath hosiery, Dut drop skirt, generally clouded with fine ilde-pleatlngs of sheerest material like chiffon or chiffon doth. A very popular combination 1s the dron. skirt or princess sup or son. rlinglng satin with an over-dress of veiling or very supple doth. The satin cnder-sllp is absolutely skin tight with no dust ruffle or pleating around the foot. Over this is draped a tunic effect that ueems to fall from the shoulder to tho hem in all one color, the bands or fringe used as a finish being In self tone. With this Is worn a tucker or yoke and long sleeves of net, either In soft, contrasting color like ecru or niodo. or dyed to match the cloth, while for verv dressv effect a moainea aireo toire sash in self tone may be added. Rut b f the best houses, strong con trasta in coloring between gowns and trimmlnn are not noteo. witn me ex crption. perhaps, of a dash of black with white or colors. A marked feature of the advancing season Is the appearance of beautiful I.onl dlrectolre and empire coats in bcniraline or ottoman silk, a fabrlo unliable, for dav wear, never for even lug. For all evening wraps, supple sarins n re preferred. Bordered fabrics are much used. es pecially for tunic effects, and with the Rilvanclng season supple oroancioms in fancv designs are shown. Brown in rrenses In popularity as the weather becomes colder, and it is an meaj Winter shade, especially in the soft cloths and satins with hints of golden lie-ht In their surface. The illustrations offered today show bow charming? are the niodined ran styles, brought within the scope and nurse of the home dressmaker. First, you have the dlrectolre coat which would develop so admirably in Ottoman silk, which, by the way. Is heavily corded. Plain satin or a rich brocade would be used to build the high collar, open several inches across the front, the wide reveres, the cuffs, end pocket lapels, but It must match In color the corded silk used In the coat. Or the plain satin may be em l.rolderad or braided In self tone or In most harmonious shades. Very little lace Is used In developing these direo tolre accessories. The lace appears In the dlrectolre jRbot. which consists of an enormous ruff, finished with a Jabot, broad at the top and tapering to a mere point Just above the waist line. Very large buttons are used on the dlrectolre coats, many of them leweled or enameled. If you cannot afford a handsome button of this sort, then cover molds with heavy satin or the silk used on the coat. This Is not a difficult pattern to de velop. The back and side backs are In one piece but the fronts of the body portion are separate from the fronts of the skirt, and with the underarm gores are Joined to them at the waist-line. This is simpler than an attempt to secure a straight line ever the hips. The complete direotolre gown shown Is really a combination of modifications of the tunlo skirt and the dlrectolre bodice. Joined by a dlrectolre sash. F.leven yards of silk will make this costume (and. think, we needed eighteen or twenty last season), with 1 1-2 yards of elghteen-lnch lace or net for chemis ette and sleeves. The ratern la suited to cither cashmere, veiling or supple silks like messallne, and the bordered fabrlo may be used if desired. Again, the tunic and overblouse may be out lined by braided bands of novelty trim ming, and by far the prettiest effect for the chemisette will be secured If tucked net is used. It win be noted that here, as in all dlrectolre modes, the long, snug-fitting sleeve appears. Some Timely Hints for the Haggard Woman THE very thin woman with lined skin, furrows and wrinkles, must treat, ft ret. her state of mind, and then, licr digestion. Generally, she Is a "wor rier." When she has no present trouble to fret over, she reaches out into the wide future and draws some trouble Into her line of vision. She never sees the cheerful side of any question. She con si.Irrs the cheerful, optimistic person frlv oIoms and thriftless. I.et her learn to hope and then to smile, to do her work of today and leave to morrow s work to care for Itself. The over-forehanded woman is narrow-chested. Ftoop-shouldered and wrinkled. Y.m never saw a plump person who woul l lmlt having the bluea Cure the Mil- by learning how to hope, smile and l:uch out loud, and you will find the first Hver of adipose tissue appearing on your sunken rhivt and withered arms. rim-oiiraRe the growth of flesh by leam z how to eldest your food. Almost ln ariahly the very thin woman Is an enor mous eater, but she does not assimilate b-r food. She does rot masticate it, but literally holts It without chewing. Learn how to' chew your food. When alone make a practice of systematically chewing each moirthful ten times. Kxtemists say "chew each bit of meat 3d tlmea" Do not le an extremist one day, and a back si uier ever after. Uarn to eat less each time, but to eat oftener. Make your three dally meals l'.jrhter and sandwich In two extra meals. If you are most active during the mora ine, and have lunch at 1 or 1:30. then be tween 10:0 and 11 take a cup of hot milk with a cracker or a glass of eggnog and a bread-and-butter sandwich; or. If fond of fruit, try a banana sliced with sugar sn-l cream or rich milk. If rou have an early lunch and late dinner, or dinner at midday and a late supper, then have your milk and crackers The stout woman must carefully avoid trimming such a sleeve. She should employ only tucks laid very smooth and flat The high or mounted skirt, shown without a bodice attached. Is worth the, DIRECTOIRE study of the home dressmaker. It com bines the best points of the new, snug flttlng skirt, and suggests the much talked-of sheath skirt. It forms a splendid foundation for the nse of the dlrectolre sash, shown in the fourth illustration. The skirt Is of circular pattern, the right side being lapped over the left. For tailored designs it Is cut walking length and finished with stitching and buttons. For more dressy wear, it can or fruit In the middle of the afternoon. And finally. J tart before retiring, drink more warm milk. It will pro-re a seda tive to tired nerves, as well as a flesh builder. And all this milk should be, sipped slowly, not gulped down In haste. As to food at table, thick soups or D1RECTOIRE SASH. be developed In supple cloth, with hand embroidery, banding, braiding, or even fringe outlining the slash on the side, and a chiffon pleating beneath. It gives the best results if cut with quite a good train, also with the outlining HOUSE GOWN. trimming growing much narrower at the waistline. Various dlrectolre girdles are also shown, with or without -ends. The short ends, known as the postilion bow, are much used for skirts cut to walk ing length but the long ends give best results on trained skirts. The true dlrectolre sash is fastened on the left side In front and is finished with deep fringe. MART DEAN. puree. are better than clear soups or con somme as fat-producers. All starchy foods, cereals, potatoes, beans, peas, rice, macaroni, etc, are fat-builders, while pickles and tart fruits such as lemons and oraVges are to be avoided. . If toe appetite Is capricious and light, try outdoor exercise, walking within mod eration, playing outdoor games like ten nis or golf, I have a very good formula for a tonic and appetizer which la entire ly harmless and which I will furnish upon receipt of a self-addressed and stamped envelope, but healthy thoughts and out door exercise are the best of appetizers. The thin, haggard woman should learn to take a nap every afternoon, and, if possible, to get in at least eight hours' sleep every night. Physical culture exercise she can use with discretion, but not violently. Most especially should she select exercises which will round out the arms and bust and fill out the sunken chest. For the flat and shapeless bust, there comes an excellent remedy to be taken Internally, formula for which will be sent in re sponse to a stamped and addressed en velope. For the sunken chest, the simplest ex ercises are the best. Stand erect with the heels together, the toes out and the hands on the hips, the thumbs pointing forward. Keep the abdomen in, the chest high, the head erect but not thrown back. Now on eight counts swing the elbows backward, holding the finger tins tight on the hips, but the thumbs may spring away from the body. Rest eight counts, and repeat the exercise, continuing the exercise regularly and persistently nntll the elbows touch. Never exercise mors than, five minutes, however, the first day. Increasing the time as strength comes with regular work. Another exercise which will fin out hol lows in both chest and throat la this: Take the position described above, save that the arms are stretched out in front of the body, on a level with the shoulders and the width of the chest apart, fingers together and palms down. On eight counts swing the right arm back as far as you can without straining, and always on a level with the shoulder. On the next eight counts swing the left arm back, then alternate the . right and left on eight counts, 'and finally both arms on eight counts, making 32 counts In all. This movement is not unlike that of swimming, which, by the way, la an ex cellent exercise for thin women. For the hollows In your throat, try swinging the head from aide to side on eight counts, then back and forth on eight counts and finally describe a circle with the head. When perspiration is started by this exercise, massage the throat with the following cream: Tannin, one-half grain gramme; lano llne, SO grains gramme; oil of sweet al monds, 20 grammes. This must be mixed in a double boiler over hot, not boiling water. Melt the oils together and as they are cooling beat in the tannin. Do not use this on the face, as it is a cream which induces a growth of hair. KATHEHI.NB MORTON. Timely Hints for the Busy Shopper WTH the Fall cleaning over, the ambitious housewife is very apt to find In the attic or store room a number of articles which were thrust aside on strenuous days to be cleaned later, a pair of gloves worth saving, a rug badly stained but not beyond redemption, or a picture frame that.needs touching up. For all these material ailments and oeiects, patent cleansers, paints or stains tu-e sold, and If directions are followed, results are generally sure and satisfactory. Btft the average woman thinks that every detail in the somewhat involved directions may not be Important and so the remedy fails and she blames the maker. For Instance, with one of the best np-to-date cleansing fluids come direc tions to place the fabric to be cleansed on blotting paper or many folds of soft old cloth. The woman who does this will find that the pattern of the article cleaned will be produced In discol ored lines on the blotting pattern, the fluid eating the grease and dust right out. If the blotting paper is not used the fluid will form a' ring In the fabric almost as unsightly as the original dirt. Again, If you are using a patent var nlsh or stain, and Instructions bid you first sandpaper the woodwork, use sandpaper vigorously. The patented article cannot perform miracles. Perhaps you have some Veils to wash and clean. For net veils, use gasoline. Put the veils in a glass Jar with wide mouth, cover with gasoline, shake vlg orously, rinse with clear gasoline. shake In the open air and pin out straight to dry on a clean cloth or sheet. Wash chiffon veils In a tepid suds made with pure white soap, rinse in water of the same temperature, and stretch on sheet or cloth to dry. Never put away a delicately tinted gown, wrap or accessory without remov ing all spots and stains.- For ordinary dust or grime use French chalk or mag nesia, allowing It to remain on the fabric until ready to wear the article again; then brush off with clean; soft brush. - It you have used gasoline to clean any fabrlo and find that it leaves a ring, hold the cloth over a steaming kettle and the ring may disappear. When lace doyleys become soiled, do not put them In the wash, but lay in box. thick with French chalk. If this is done before the dust turn to grime. washing can be delayed Indefinitely, The secret of cleaning is not to let things get really dirty, but to take the proverbial stitch in time. Blood or meat stains on linen may be removed by first soaking the article in cold water; then make a suds with cold water and rinse in cold water. Hot water at any stage of the process will set the stain. Stains on mattresses can be removed by covering them with a paste made from Fuller's earth, water and am monia. To each teacup of the creamy paste made from the earth and tepid water, add one teaspoonful of aqua am monia. For lee cream stains, especially on silk, try chloroform. Several appli cations may be necessary, and be sure to use blotting paper beneath the stain To remove paint stains when fresh, use turpentine or alcohol, spreading the fabric over many thicknesses of clean cloth. For old paint stains, try chloro form. Household Hints. To keep the color of red flannel stir two tablespoon fu Is of flour into one quart of cold water, let It boil several minutes, add warm suds and wash the flannel in the usual way. Ink stains may be re moved from linen by putting melted tal low on the' mark before washing. Both ink and grease will come out at the same time. Mildew may be removed by soak ing the article in buttermilk. Lace should never be rubbed, but well rinsed in water In which a crood soap Jelly has been dis solved. Kerosene will remove fruit stains on linen. First wash the article in kero sene, then wash in the usual way. Should linen be Inadvertently scorched, the fol lowing method will restore It: Peel four onions and extract the Juice. Mix this with four ounces of fuller's earth, one ounce soap and a pint of vinegar. Boll well together. When nearly cold put on the scorched places and let dry in the air. Wash In cold water, and, if neces sary, repeat the process. If a very slight scorch mark the linen may be restored to Its original whiteness by placing It out of doors in strong sunlight. When ironing. If the worker stands on a padded rug the feet do not become so tired. Stains caused by acids may be re moved by salt of wormwood. The part should be first wetted and the salts rubbed in. then rinsed before washing. Black and white fabrics should be washed in water tn which salt has been dissolved, a tesspoonful to every gallon. Flowers Grow In Cinders. EL Louis Post-Dispatch. A garden of flowers growing tn cinder- packed ground In the rear yard of Mrs. Charles Roeder, 306 Lam! street. Is a curiosity attracting the attention of the residents of that vicinity. Gardeners are at a loss to explain how the flowers can grow in such unproductive grounds. When Mrs. noeder attempted to grow roses In her cinder-packed yard the neighbors ridiculed her. But Mrs. Roe der is widow and has no children, and the attempt, even though it had failed. was interesting to her and helped to oc cupy her spare time. She persisted, and after planting the beds, tended them carefully. She was as much surprised as the neighbors when the flowers grew luxuriantly. Winter Ahead. Kansas City Times. Oh. listen to the little bird That slngeth In the sun; It knoweth It can fly away As soon as Summer's done. From furnaces and slushy walks. And stay away till Spring. Bo listen to the lucky- bird No wondsr it dolh sing. Good Form for the Day-at-Home THE custom of having an Informal afternoon at home when your friends mav be sure of finding you in, shows no signs of waning. In deed those Informal entertainments have taken a great lead over the once popular evening receptions. They are the least expensive and the least ex acting of Winter hospitalities, and perhaps to these causes may be traced their popularity. Women who have a large circle of acquaintances have many of these days In the season, while others are con tent with four.' For instance one card may read, "Mrs. James Brown, Elting, 1S Prospect Place. First and Third Thursdays." Another will read, "Mrs. John Green wood, 6 Smlthon ave nue. Wednesdays in December." One woman will be at borne the entire sea son two afternoons in ' the month, while the other will concentrate on four days all within one month. The matter of deciding this question lies with the woman herself. Either mode la equally good. It Is simply a question of the demands of your social life. These cards are to be mailed in envelopes fitting ths card exactly, sealed and mailed - with a two-cent stamp. No social correspondence should be sent by the penny post. The husband's name does not appear on cards for informal afternoons at home, but if there are daughters in the house old enough to be in society, then the cards should read, "Mrs. John Green Wood, the Misses Wood," etc The maid who opens the door and serves refreshments should be dressed all in black, with white collar and cuffs and white apron. She should have no color about her in any way. 6he should wear a small white cap with a tiny black bow. A large platter should be left on the hall table where guests may drop their cards upon entering the house. No calls are made before three in the afternoon, but at that hour the hos tess ohonld be dressed, her rooms should be ready, her table prepared and everything in readiness to receive the guests. The question of refreshments at these afternoons depends on two things, how many "at homes" you ill SMART DIRECTOIRE JACKET. have, and how large a circle of friends you have. If you only have four aft ernoons-at-home, then a table should be set In the dining-room, laden with sandwiches, cake, candies, etc At both ends of the table, a woman friend sits, one pouring tea or coffee, and the other serving a light punch of some kind. If you are going to be at home all the season and expect not over half a dozen women friends in an aft ernoon. It would be foolish to set a table and would give an atmosphere too formal to your rooms. In the lat- ter case, it is better to have the maid bring in tea, or serve it yourself from a dalntjr tea table, and have sand wiches, cakes and candles in tiny glass dishes immediately at hand. At these Informal afternoons, guests MODIFIED SHEATH SKIRT. enter the drawing room unannounced, but the hostess must rise to greet each newcomer, and she always rises to bid them goodbye, when seeing them to the door. And the hostess must be very careful to see that all of her guests are properly and distinctly in troduced to each other, as with few people in a room it would fee most em barrassing not to know the name of the women with whom you are talk ing;. The hostess at the ' afternoon-at-home wears a high neck gown, or one of the new collarless gowns not low neck, however a dainty, simple house gown, light in color and texture. Shirt waists and odd skirts are in fright fully bad form. The gown should also have a slight train. If the weather should prove lncle- ment the maid at the door will remove the rubbers of guests, take their um brellas, etc., before the latter enter the room. This not only protects the handsome carpets, but also relieves the guest of the burden of such garments while in the drawing room. The hostess makes the conversation general and of interest to all the guests. She does not talk with Mrs. Brown for ten minutes about some matter of which Mrs. Jones knows nothing, yet she tries to avoid . such stale topic as the weather. The suc cessful hostess has a way of making everybody glad they came, and In some tactful way she makes all feel that they have done her a personal favor in dropping in for a call. When a woman has these informal days-at-home, the friends who come to see her do not have to call again as they do after attending a formal re ception. As stated before,' Informal afternoons at home are simply a set time when your friends may find you in. The hostess then owes a call to every friend who has attended any of these afternoons. If a hostess has a very large circle of frlonds, and has no daughters to assist her then It is better that she ask one or two of her intimate friends to receive with her, as no one person can entertain 20 friends at the same time. If a hostess sees some guest sitting in a corner sipping a solitary cup of tea, she should go up to her, and say: "Mrs. Cummlngs. I want you to come over and meet Mrs. Brown," and escort her across the room, seating her by some friend whom ahe thinks would be congenial to her. She does not let any one, no matter who) they are, go from her house, feeling neglected. A hostess should literally lose herself in making her guests feel comfortable. PRUDENCE STANDISH. L Tempting Breakfast Dishes 1HE average American family Is fast following tn the footsteps of foreign cousins and eating light breakfasts, and on-., hot dish Is considered suffie'ent. The motherly mother and devoted wife may find one or two of the fallowing dishes tempting. Generally speaking, something with a little salty flavor appeals to a man's appetite: Finnan haddle and eggs Select a thick fish and cut Into pieces large enough for single portions. Parboil ths fish for a few minutes. Remove from pan, dry with a cloth. Put fish on. a fine broiler, rub butter over it and broil until nicely browned. Lay on a hot platter, brush once more with butter, squeeze a little lemon Juice over It and serve with a poached egg on each square of fish. Baked breakfast dish In the bottom of a baking dish put a layer of cold mashel potatoes left from dinner. Sprinkle with bits of butter. Over this place a layer of finely chopped ham and then break several eggs over the top. Place In a moderately quick oven and bake until done. Grated cheese may -be adject on top of the eggs If cheese is liked. Many prefer It without the cheese for break fast, and with the cheese for luncheon. Bacon In potatoes Select large potatoes of even size and cut a small piece off one end so they will stand. When baked remove the second end and scoop out part of the ineide. Fill this cavity with chopped broiled bacon, making a little pyramid in each potato. Serve on hot platter and stick a sprig of parsley In each potato. Woman Athletes 6 how Temper. Kansas' City Journal. Those who have something to do with athletics among women have been puz zled and depressed at the lack of true sportsmanship among them. We are quite well aware that this statement will be the cause of resentful refutation among the girl athletes, but It la true, nevertheless. It is Just as well to con fess that women have not learned to contest with each other without losing temper. In discussing the recent strike among the Paris telephone girls agaln.it the appointment of superintendents of their own sex over them, an authority and a woman, too asserts that women are always Jealous among themselves. She says "the sociological value of the Paris incident lies In the fact that It dis closes, as the philosophers say, a "uni-' versal' or a trait that seems to be common to the feminine nature the world over." Eton. Collars. .... - Tatler. An ideal occupation for the home-worker is the embroidering of the eton col lars that are de rlgueur with the simple serge and cashmere frocks appropriately worn by young girls still in the school room. These collars are of soft linen embroidered at the edge and fastened with a little cravat, the frocks them selves consisting of a blouse bodice and a plain skirt with bretelles for passing over the shoulders. Politics at Hknna Detroit TYee Press. There's no use talking, it's quite plsdm, ' "We're warming up for the campaign. And things are getting mighty bot At horns these day. Such words as- "rot" And "buncombe" now are often heard. .' And likewise "nonsense" and "absurd." . For Pa and Uncle Jim discuss The Issues every nlrht and fuss And fume and shout and sometime swear. And wave their arms and tear the air. Then Pa oalle Uncle Jim a fool. -When h says: "Shall the people ruler" Pa savs: "What would Bryan do To guide this Nation safely through The troubles of financial stress? Ioes he look Ilk a great suooeeT" And Uncle Jim he blows his nose. And then he says: "Well. I suppose That he could write to Roosevelt and Get Information Tight off hand." Which Pa accepted as a sneer. "Don't cast no slurs on Roosevelt her He ehouted. Then said Uncle oool: "I ain't, but shall th people ruler It seems to me if mighty strange Somehow their arguments don't chang; Including Roosevelt policies. Believing Pa, our Uncle Jim Is not up on affairs like him: Believing Uncle Jim. our Pa "Will never know, what tseues nre. And thus they argue every night. And neither thinks the other right; I gues I'll have to go to school To find out, "Shall the people rule? That Black Silk Dress. Delineator. Of frocks Belinda has a score Her evening gowns, some ten or twelve. Are marvels wrougnt in texture nn. Bight tailored suits her wardrobe boasts; She vows she cannot do with less. Alack-a-day! The simple life Has vanished with the black silk dress! With what delight does on recall Its rustling widths and surface sleek; In quality it had no peer 'Twaa gros-graln or moire antique). From year to year its style endured; No fashion, fickle to excess. Was powerful enough to rout. ' In days of yore, th black silk dress. How numerous Its uses were! It served for luncheon, tea or ball, For opera or for a dance. For shopping or to pay a call In spite of what Belinda says About my taste, I must confess A wish to resurrect again The all-sufficing black silk dresa L'BNVOI. Ye devotees that oscillate 'Twlxt various modes, from lithe princess To Empire fashion, all your srown I'd barter for the black silk dress!
