THE SUNDAY OREGOXIAX, PORTT.AT, NOVEMBER 1, 10OS.
7
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TFA
Modified Styles Are Now in Demand
THE dlrectolre scars Is over. The
sheath skirt panlo has subsided.
The world feminine has returned
to normal, regular heart-beats. Styles
for the season of 1908-9 are now fixed.
They are simply the extreme styles as
shown In September, gracefully modi
fled to meet the needs" of the conserv
ative American woman.
From the very start of the sheath
skirt panic, I have maintained In these
columns that no well-bred, sane Ameri
can woman would ever consider the
mode seriously, neither, would she ac
crpt the extreme dlrectolre styles. The
heath skirt baa been seen only upon
the stag and then in each productions
as featured the feminine form divine.
rather than dramatic Interest or virile
actinic It is now relegated, along; with
6alome dances, ' to the has-beens of a
theatrical year barely begun.
The dlrectolre modes have left
stronger influence, but only la such
general effects as snugger skirts,
bigger , reveres and long, narrow
Sleeves. The exaggerated dlrectolre hat
the wide swathing sash, the Inter
minable train have all been tabooed by
well-dressed women.
The sheath skirt now appears only tn
tunic effects, or an outer skirt of soft;
clinging fabric put up on one side to
display not "sheath hosiery, Dut
drop skirt, generally clouded with fine
ilde-pleatlngs of sheerest material like
chiffon or chiffon doth.
A very popular combination 1s the
dron. skirt or princess sup or son.
rlinglng satin with an over-dress of
veiling or very supple doth. The satin
cnder-sllp is absolutely skin tight with
no dust ruffle or pleating around the
foot. Over this is draped a tunic effect
that ueems to fall from the shoulder
to tho hem in all one color, the bands
or fringe used as a finish being In self
tone. With this Is worn a tucker or
yoke and long sleeves of net, either
In soft, contrasting color like ecru or
niodo. or dyed to match the cloth, while
for verv dressv effect a moainea aireo
toire sash in self tone may be added.
Rut b f the best houses, strong con
trasta in coloring between gowns and
trimmlnn are not noteo. witn me ex
crption. perhaps, of a dash of black
with white or colors.
A marked feature of the advancing
season Is the appearance of beautiful
I.onl dlrectolre and empire coats in
bcniraline or ottoman silk, a fabrlo
unliable, for dav wear, never for even
lug. For all evening wraps, supple
sarins n re preferred.
Bordered fabrics are much used. es
pecially for tunic effects, and with the
Rilvanclng season supple oroancioms in
fancv designs are shown. Brown in
rrenses In popularity as the weather
becomes colder, and it is an meaj
Winter shade, especially in the soft
cloths and satins with hints of golden
lie-ht In their surface.
The illustrations offered today show
bow charming? are the niodined ran
styles, brought within the scope and
nurse of the home dressmaker.
First, you have the dlrectolre coat
which would develop so admirably in
Ottoman silk, which, by the way. Is
heavily corded. Plain satin or a rich
brocade would be used to build the
high collar, open several inches across
the front, the wide reveres, the cuffs,
end pocket lapels, but It must match
In color the corded silk used In the
coat. Or the plain satin may be em
l.rolderad or braided In self tone or In
most harmonious shades. Very little
lace Is used In developing these direo
tolre accessories. The lace appears In
the dlrectolre jRbot. which consists of
an enormous ruff, finished with a Jabot,
broad at the top and tapering to a
mere point Just above the waist line.
Very large buttons are used on the
dlrectolre coats, many of them leweled
or enameled. If you cannot afford a
handsome button of this sort, then
cover molds with heavy satin or the
silk used on the coat.
This Is not a difficult pattern to de
velop. The back and side backs are
In one piece but the fronts of the body
portion are separate from the fronts of
the skirt, and with the underarm gores
are Joined to them at the waist-line.
This is simpler than an attempt to
secure a straight line ever the hips.
The complete direotolre gown shown
Is really a combination of modifications
of the tunlo skirt and the dlrectolre
bodice. Joined by a dlrectolre sash.
F.leven yards of silk will make this
costume (and. think, we needed eighteen
or twenty last season), with 1 1-2 yards
of elghteen-lnch lace or net for chemis
ette and sleeves. The ratern la suited
to cither cashmere, veiling or supple
silks like messallne, and the bordered
fabrlo may be used if desired. Again,
the tunic and overblouse may be out
lined by braided bands of novelty trim
ming, and by far the prettiest effect
for the chemisette will be secured If
tucked net is used. It win be noted
that here, as in all dlrectolre modes,
the long, snug-fitting sleeve appears.
Some Timely Hints for the Haggard Woman
THE very thin woman with lined skin,
furrows and wrinkles, must treat,
ft ret. her state of mind, and then,
licr digestion. Generally, she Is a "wor
rier." When she has no present trouble
to fret over, she reaches out into the
wide future and draws some trouble Into
her line of vision. She never sees the
cheerful side of any question. She con
si.Irrs the cheerful, optimistic person frlv
oIoms and thriftless.
I.et her learn to hope and then to smile,
to do her work of today and leave to
morrow s work to care for Itself. The
over-forehanded woman is narrow-chested.
Ftoop-shouldered and wrinkled.
Y.m never saw a plump person who
woul l lmlt having the bluea Cure the
Mil- by learning how to hope, smile and
l:uch out loud, and you will find the first
Hver of adipose tissue appearing on your
sunken rhivt and withered arms.
rim-oiiraRe the growth of flesh by leam
z how to eldest your food. Almost ln
ariahly the very thin woman Is an enor
mous eater, but she does not assimilate
b-r food. She does rot masticate it, but
literally holts It without chewing. Learn
how to' chew your food. When alone make
a practice of systematically chewing each
moirthful ten times. Kxtemists say
"chew each bit of meat 3d tlmea" Do
not le an extremist one day, and a back
si uier ever after.
Uarn to eat less each time, but to eat
oftener. Make your three dally meals
l'.jrhter and sandwich In two extra meals.
If you are most active during the mora
ine, and have lunch at 1 or 1:30. then be
tween 10:0 and 11 take a cup of hot milk
with a cracker or a glass of eggnog and
a bread-and-butter sandwich; or. If fond
of fruit, try a banana sliced with sugar
sn-l cream or rich milk.
If rou have an early lunch and late
dinner, or dinner at midday and a late
supper, then have your milk and crackers
The stout woman must carefully avoid
trimming such a sleeve. She should
employ only tucks laid very smooth
and flat
The high or mounted skirt, shown
without a bodice attached. Is worth the,
DIRECTOIRE
study of the home dressmaker. It com
bines the best points of the new, snug
flttlng skirt, and suggests the much
talked-of sheath skirt. It forms a
splendid foundation for the nse of the
dlrectolre sash, shown in the fourth
illustration.
The skirt Is of circular pattern, the
right side being lapped over the left.
For tailored designs it Is cut walking
length and finished with stitching and
buttons. For more dressy wear, it can
or fruit In the middle of the afternoon.
And finally. J tart before retiring, drink
more warm milk. It will pro-re a seda
tive to tired nerves, as well as a flesh
builder. And all this milk should be,
sipped slowly, not gulped down In haste.
As to food at table, thick soups or
D1RECTOIRE SASH.
be developed In supple cloth, with hand
embroidery, banding, braiding, or even
fringe outlining the slash on the side,
and a chiffon pleating beneath. It
gives the best results if cut with quite
a good train, also with the outlining
HOUSE GOWN.
trimming growing much narrower at
the waistline.
Various dlrectolre girdles are also
shown, with or without -ends. The
short ends, known as the postilion bow,
are much used for skirts cut to walk
ing length but the long ends give best
results on trained skirts. The true
dlrectolre sash is fastened on the left
side In front and is finished with deep
fringe.
MART DEAN.
puree. are better than clear soups or con
somme as fat-producers. All starchy
foods, cereals, potatoes, beans, peas, rice,
macaroni, etc, are fat-builders, while
pickles and tart fruits such as lemons
and oraVges are to be avoided. .
If toe appetite Is capricious and light,
try outdoor exercise, walking within mod
eration, playing outdoor games like ten
nis or golf, I have a very good formula
for a tonic and appetizer which la entire
ly harmless and which I will furnish upon
receipt of a self-addressed and stamped
envelope, but healthy thoughts and out
door exercise are the best of appetizers.
The thin, haggard woman should learn
to take a nap every afternoon, and, if
possible, to get in at least eight hours'
sleep every night.
Physical culture exercise she can use
with discretion, but not violently. Most
especially should she select exercises
which will round out the arms and bust
and fill out the sunken chest. For the
flat and shapeless bust, there comes an
excellent remedy to be taken Internally,
formula for which will be sent in re
sponse to a stamped and addressed en
velope. For the sunken chest, the simplest ex
ercises are the best. Stand erect with
the heels together, the toes out and the
hands on the hips, the thumbs pointing
forward. Keep the abdomen in, the chest
high, the head erect but not thrown back.
Now on eight counts swing the elbows
backward, holding the finger tins tight
on the hips, but the thumbs may spring
away from the body. Rest eight counts,
and repeat the exercise, continuing the
exercise regularly and persistently nntll
the elbows touch. Never exercise mors
than, five minutes, however, the first day.
Increasing the time as strength comes
with regular work.
Another exercise which will fin out hol
lows in both chest and throat la this:
Take the position described above, save
that the arms are stretched out in front
of the body, on a level with the shoulders
and the width of the chest apart, fingers
together and palms down.
On eight counts swing the right arm
back as far as you can without straining,
and always on a level with the shoulder.
On the next eight counts swing the left
arm back, then alternate the . right and
left on eight counts, 'and finally both
arms on eight counts, making 32 counts In
all. This movement is not unlike that of
swimming, which, by the way, la an ex
cellent exercise for thin women.
For the hollows In your throat, try
swinging the head from aide to side on
eight counts, then back and forth on
eight counts and finally describe a circle
with the head. When perspiration is
started by this exercise, massage the
throat with the following cream:
Tannin, one-half grain gramme; lano
llne, SO grains gramme; oil of sweet al
monds, 20 grammes.
This must be mixed in a double boiler
over hot, not boiling water. Melt the oils
together and as they are cooling beat in
the tannin. Do not use this on the face,
as it is a cream which induces a growth
of hair. KATHEHI.NB MORTON.
Timely Hints for the
Busy Shopper
WTH the Fall cleaning over, the
ambitious housewife is very apt
to find In the attic or store
room a number of articles which were
thrust aside on strenuous days to be
cleaned later, a pair of gloves worth
saving, a rug badly stained but not
beyond redemption, or a picture frame
that.needs touching up.
For all these material ailments and
oeiects, patent cleansers, paints or
stains tu-e sold, and If directions are
followed, results are generally sure
and satisfactory. Btft the average
woman thinks that every detail in the
somewhat involved directions may not
be Important and so the remedy fails
and she blames the maker.
For Instance, with one of the best
np-to-date cleansing fluids come direc
tions to place the fabric to be cleansed
on blotting paper or many folds of soft
old cloth. The woman who does this
will find that the pattern of the article
cleaned will be produced In discol
ored lines on the blotting pattern, the
fluid eating the grease and dust right
out. If the blotting paper is not used
the fluid will form a' ring In the fabric
almost as unsightly as the original
dirt.
Again, If you are using a patent var
nlsh or stain, and Instructions bid you
first sandpaper the woodwork, use
sandpaper vigorously. The patented
article cannot perform miracles.
Perhaps you have some Veils to wash
and clean. For net veils, use gasoline.
Put the veils in a glass Jar with wide
mouth, cover with gasoline, shake vlg
orously, rinse with clear gasoline.
shake In the open air and pin out
straight to dry on a clean cloth or
sheet. Wash chiffon veils In a tepid
suds made with pure white soap, rinse
in water of the same temperature, and
stretch on sheet or cloth to dry.
Never put away a delicately tinted
gown, wrap or accessory without remov
ing all spots and stains.- For ordinary
dust or grime use French chalk or mag
nesia, allowing It to remain on the fabric
until ready to wear the article again; then
brush off with clean; soft brush. -
It you have used gasoline to clean
any fabrlo and find that it leaves a
ring, hold the cloth over a steaming
kettle and the ring may disappear.
When lace doyleys become soiled, do
not put them In the wash, but lay in
box. thick with French chalk. If this
is done before the dust turn to grime.
washing can be delayed Indefinitely,
The secret of cleaning is not to let
things get really dirty, but to take the
proverbial stitch in time.
Blood or meat stains on linen may be
removed by first soaking the article in
cold water; then make a suds with
cold water and rinse in cold water.
Hot water at any stage of the process
will set the stain.
Stains on mattresses can be removed
by covering them with a paste made
from Fuller's earth, water and am
monia. To each teacup of the creamy
paste made from the earth and tepid
water, add one teaspoonful of aqua am
monia. For lee cream stains, especially on
silk, try chloroform. Several appli
cations may be necessary, and be sure
to use blotting paper beneath the stain
To remove paint stains when fresh,
use turpentine or alcohol, spreading the
fabric over many thicknesses of clean
cloth. For old paint stains, try chloro
form. Household Hints.
To keep the color of red flannel stir
two tablespoon fu Is of flour into one quart
of cold water, let It boil several minutes,
add warm suds and wash the flannel in
the usual way. Ink stains may be re
moved from linen by putting melted tal
low on the' mark before washing. Both
ink and grease will come out at the same
time. Mildew may be removed by soak
ing the article in buttermilk. Lace should
never be rubbed, but well rinsed in water
In which a crood soap Jelly has been dis
solved. Kerosene will remove fruit stains
on linen. First wash the article in kero
sene, then wash in the usual way. Should
linen be Inadvertently scorched, the fol
lowing method will restore It: Peel four
onions and extract the Juice. Mix this
with four ounces of fuller's earth, one
ounce soap and a pint of vinegar. Boll
well together. When nearly cold put on
the scorched places and let dry in the
air. Wash In cold water, and, if neces
sary, repeat the process. If a very slight
scorch mark the linen may be restored to
Its original whiteness by placing It out of
doors in strong sunlight.
When ironing. If the worker stands on
a padded rug the feet do not become so
tired. Stains caused by acids may be re
moved by salt of wormwood. The part
should be first wetted and the salts
rubbed in. then rinsed before washing.
Black and white fabrics should be
washed in water tn which salt has been
dissolved, a tesspoonful to every gallon.
Flowers Grow In Cinders.
EL Louis Post-Dispatch.
A garden of flowers growing tn cinder-
packed ground In the rear yard of Mrs.
Charles Roeder, 306 Lam! street. Is a
curiosity attracting the attention of the
residents of that vicinity. Gardeners are
at a loss to explain how the flowers can
grow in such unproductive grounds.
When Mrs. noeder attempted to grow
roses In her cinder-packed yard the
neighbors ridiculed her. But Mrs. Roe
der is widow and has no children, and
the attempt, even though it had failed.
was interesting to her and helped to oc
cupy her spare time.
She persisted, and after planting the
beds, tended them carefully. She was as
much surprised as the neighbors when
the flowers grew luxuriantly.
Winter Ahead.
Kansas City Times.
Oh. listen to the little bird
That slngeth In the sun;
It knoweth It can fly away
As soon as Summer's done.
From furnaces and slushy walks.
And stay away till Spring.
Bo listen to the lucky- bird
No wondsr it dolh sing.
Good Form for the Day-at-Home
THE custom of having an Informal
afternoon at home when your
friends mav be sure of finding
you in, shows no signs of waning. In
deed those Informal entertainments
have taken a great lead over the once
popular evening receptions. They are
the least expensive and the least ex
acting of Winter hospitalities, and
perhaps to these causes may be traced
their popularity.
Women who have a large circle of
acquaintances have many of these days
In the season, while others are con
tent with four.' For instance one card
may read, "Mrs. James Brown, Elting,
1S Prospect Place. First and Third
Thursdays." Another will read, "Mrs.
John Green wood, 6 Smlthon ave
nue. Wednesdays in December." One
woman will be at borne the entire sea
son two afternoons in ' the month,
while the other will concentrate on
four days all within one month.
The matter of deciding this question
lies with the woman herself. Either
mode la equally good. It Is simply a
question of the demands of your social
life. These cards are to be mailed in
envelopes fitting ths card exactly,
sealed and mailed - with a two-cent
stamp. No social correspondence
should be sent by the penny post. The
husband's name does not appear on
cards for informal afternoons at home,
but if there are daughters in the house
old enough to be in society, then the
cards should read, "Mrs. John Green
Wood, the Misses Wood," etc
The maid who opens the door and
serves refreshments should be dressed
all in black, with white collar and
cuffs and white apron. She should
have no color about her in any way.
6he should wear a small white cap
with a tiny black bow.
A large platter should be left on
the hall table where guests may drop
their cards upon entering the house.
No calls are made before three in the
afternoon, but at that hour the hos
tess ohonld be dressed, her rooms
should be ready, her table prepared
and everything in readiness to receive
the guests.
The question of refreshments at
these afternoons depends on two
things, how many "at homes" you
ill
SMART DIRECTOIRE JACKET.
have, and how large a circle of friends
you have. If you only have four aft
ernoons-at-home, then a table should
be set In the dining-room, laden with
sandwiches, cake, candies, etc At
both ends of the table, a woman friend
sits, one pouring tea or coffee, and the
other serving a light punch of some
kind. If you are going to be at home
all the season and expect not over
half a dozen women friends in an aft
ernoon. It would be foolish to set a
table and would give an atmosphere
too formal to your rooms. In the lat-
ter case, it is better to have the maid
bring in tea, or serve it yourself from
a dalntjr tea table, and have sand
wiches, cakes and candles in tiny glass
dishes immediately at hand.
At these Informal afternoons, guests
MODIFIED SHEATH SKIRT.
enter the drawing room unannounced,
but the hostess must rise to greet each
newcomer, and she always rises to bid
them goodbye, when seeing them to
the door. And the hostess must be
very careful to see that all of her
guests are properly and distinctly in
troduced to each other, as with few
people in a room it would fee most em
barrassing not to know the name of
the women with whom you are talk
ing;. The hostess at the ' afternoon-at-home
wears a high neck gown, or one
of the new collarless gowns not low
neck, however a dainty, simple house
gown, light in color and texture. Shirt
waists and odd skirts are in fright
fully bad form. The gown should also
have a slight train.
If the weather should prove lncle-
ment the maid at the door will remove
the rubbers of guests, take their um
brellas, etc., before the latter enter
the room. This not only protects the
handsome carpets, but also relieves the
guest of the burden of such garments
while in the drawing room.
The hostess makes the conversation
general and of interest to all the
guests. She does not talk with Mrs.
Brown for ten minutes about some
matter of which Mrs. Jones knows
nothing, yet she tries to avoid . such
stale topic as the weather. The suc
cessful hostess has a way of making
everybody glad they came, and In some
tactful way she makes all feel that
they have done her a personal favor
in dropping in for a call.
When a woman has these informal
days-at-home, the friends who come to
see her do not have to call again as
they do after attending a formal re
ception. As stated before,' Informal
afternoons at home are simply a set
time when your friends may find you
in. The hostess then owes a call to
every friend who has attended any of
these afternoons.
If a hostess has a very large circle
of frlonds, and has no daughters to
assist her then It is better that she
ask one or two of her intimate
friends to receive with her, as no one
person can entertain 20 friends at the
same time. If a hostess sees some
guest sitting in a corner sipping a
solitary cup of tea, she should go up
to her, and say: "Mrs. Cummlngs. I
want you to come over and meet Mrs.
Brown," and escort her across the
room, seating her by some friend
whom ahe thinks would be congenial
to her.
She does not let any one, no matter
who) they are, go from her house,
feeling neglected. A hostess should
literally lose herself in making her
guests feel comfortable.
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
L Tempting Breakfast
Dishes
1HE average American family Is fast
following tn the footsteps of foreign
cousins and eating light breakfasts, and
on-., hot dish Is considered suffie'ent. The
motherly mother and devoted wife may
find one or two of the fallowing dishes
tempting. Generally speaking, something
with a little salty flavor appeals to a
man's appetite:
Finnan haddle and eggs Select a thick
fish and cut Into pieces large enough for
single portions. Parboil ths fish for a few
minutes. Remove from pan, dry with
a cloth. Put fish on. a fine broiler, rub
butter over it and broil until nicely
browned. Lay on a hot platter, brush
once more with butter, squeeze a little
lemon Juice over It and serve with a
poached egg on each square of fish.
Baked breakfast dish In the bottom of
a baking dish put a layer of cold mashel
potatoes left from dinner. Sprinkle with
bits of butter. Over this place a layer
of finely chopped ham and then break
several eggs over the top. Place In a
moderately quick oven and bake until
done. Grated cheese may -be adject on
top of the eggs If cheese is liked. Many
prefer It without the cheese for break
fast, and with the cheese for luncheon.
Bacon In potatoes Select large potatoes
of even size and cut a small piece off
one end so they will stand. When baked
remove the second end and scoop out part
of the ineide. Fill this cavity with
chopped broiled bacon, making a little
pyramid in each potato. Serve on hot
platter and stick a sprig of parsley In
each potato.
Woman Athletes 6 how Temper.
Kansas' City Journal.
Those who have something to do with
athletics among women have been puz
zled and depressed at the lack of true
sportsmanship among them. We are
quite well aware that this statement will
be the cause of resentful refutation
among the girl athletes, but It la true,
nevertheless. It is Just as well to con
fess that women have not learned to
contest with each other without losing
temper. In discussing the recent strike
among the Paris telephone girls agaln.it
the appointment of superintendents of
their own sex over them, an authority
and a woman, too asserts that women
are always Jealous among themselves.
She says "the sociological value of the
Paris incident lies In the fact that It dis
closes, as the philosophers say, a "uni-'
versal' or a trait that seems to
be common to the feminine nature the
world over."
Eton. Collars. .... -
Tatler.
An ideal occupation for the home-worker
is the embroidering of the eton col
lars that are de rlgueur with the simple
serge and cashmere frocks appropriately
worn by young girls still in the school
room. These collars are of soft linen
embroidered at the edge and fastened
with a little cravat, the frocks them
selves consisting of a blouse bodice and
a plain skirt with bretelles for passing
over the shoulders.
Politics at Hknna
Detroit TYee Press.
There's no use talking, it's quite plsdm, '
"We're warming up for the campaign.
And things are getting mighty bot
At horns these day. Such words as- "rot"
And "buncombe" now are often heard. .'
And likewise "nonsense" and "absurd." .
For Pa and Uncle Jim discuss
The Issues every nlrht and fuss
And fume and shout and sometime swear.
And wave their arms and tear the air.
Then Pa oalle Uncle Jim a fool.
-When h says: "Shall the people ruler"
Pa savs: "What would Bryan do
To guide this Nation safely through
The troubles of financial stress?
Ioes he look Ilk a great suooeeT"
And Uncle Jim he blows his nose.
And then he says: "Well. I suppose
That he could write to Roosevelt and
Get Information Tight off hand."
Which Pa accepted as a sneer.
"Don't cast no slurs on Roosevelt her
He ehouted. Then said Uncle oool:
"I ain't, but shall th people ruler
It seems to me if mighty strange
Somehow their arguments don't chang;
Including Roosevelt policies.
Believing Pa, our Uncle Jim
Is not up on affairs like him:
Believing Uncle Jim. our Pa
"Will never know, what tseues nre.
And thus they argue every night.
And neither thinks the other right;
I gues I'll have to go to school
To find out, "Shall the people rule?
That Black Silk Dress.
Delineator.
Of frocks Belinda has a score
Her evening gowns, some ten or twelve.
Are marvels wrougnt in texture nn.
Bight tailored suits her wardrobe boasts;
She vows she cannot do with less.
Alack-a-day! The simple life
Has vanished with the black silk dress!
With what delight does on recall
Its rustling widths and surface sleek;
In quality it had no peer
'Twaa gros-graln or moire antique).
From year to year its style endured;
No fashion, fickle to excess.
Was powerful enough to rout. '
In days of yore, th black silk dress.
How numerous Its uses were!
It served for luncheon, tea or ball,
For opera or for a dance.
For shopping or to pay a call
In spite of what Belinda says
About my taste, I must confess
A wish to resurrect again
The all-sufficing black silk dresa
L'BNVOI.
Ye devotees that oscillate
'Twlxt various modes, from lithe princess
To Empire fashion, all your srown
I'd barter for the black silk dress!