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About The Sunday Oregonian. (Portland, Ore.) 1881-current | View Entire Issue (Sept. 13, 1908)
SUNDAY OREGOXTAX, SEPTEMBER 13, T908. The Lure NO siren ever called men to dan ger and destruction more effect ually than do millinery openings lure women Into bankruptcy of dress allowances. The enticements of the Kali openings are many and deceptive. At first glance, the average shopper will decide that all styles are extreme and she must be resigned. If she se lects her hat on this supposition, she is making a grave mistake, because after the exaggerations of the Fall openings will come a reaction in favor of more sane styles. The very milliners who declare that everything will be very high or very wide or very bizarre find that there remain yet a few wom en of plethoric purse who refuse to be made into millinery spectacles, wherefore the fashionable designer Is forced Into the making of sane hats for sane women. This much In warning. Do not buy your Fall hat, which may have to last you well into the Winter until you have studied the millinery field thor oughly. Do not pin your faith to the milliners statement that only the ex treme stylos will be worn. Believe me. good designers already admit that the extreme styles of the moment will be revised and modified within a month's time. The American woman simply will not be made to look like a frump, and selecting an extreme style of mil linery for general wear, not occasions, stamps the woman as the frump, the person of hopelessly bad taste. Naturally th" first question raised at Fall opening was this: "What will replace the Merry Widow sailor?" And the answer Js: "The English walking hat, crossed wIJi a man's silk tile." Xot a promising outlook. Is it. espe cially for the middle-aged woman of conservative tastes? And the oddest tiling about the situation Is that the woman who' wore the Merry Widow sailor is quite sure that she can swing to the other extreme and look smart in the severe English hat which the millinery world Is trying to popularize. This Knglish hat which paradoxi cally renewed lis vogue in Paris is perlians the most trying shape that was ever Invented by hatmakers. It has absolutely not one softening or re deeming feature. It is harsh, unyield ing in every line. It does not shade the face, but sets forth every defect of feature or complexion most relent lessly. It requires the most perfect griming and the most correctly tai lored gowns to accompany It. It makes the tall woman look absurd and the thin woman look gaunt, yet oddly enough It makes the stout woman look too funny for words. It demands a Juno figure. Venus features and color ing. Diana carriage and Psyche hair, wherefore the astute millinery design ers offer It to the American woman. If the American woman were the won drous creature pictured by versifiers and illustrators, this compliment might be taken seriously, but. alas, hats are worn by average women, not artists' models! Therefore I say again and again: "Study yourself and your style and be not urged Into buying hats which, how ever smart, will make you look absurd. Tell a milliner that you insist upon having the hat modified and It will be altered." The first impression gained at a mil linery display today suggests enormity In either breadth or height, and ap palling weight of frame and trim ming, which will entail the use of much false hair. In addition to the walking hat described above, there are many large and bizarre shapes. The Merry Widow shape, probably a trifle larger in diameter, iias a higher crown and Is bent in the back. Another large hat. suggesting the Summer picture ha?, but trimmed with wintry fabrics. Is as broad as the Merry Widow, but Hair Should THERE3 Is a personage In Paris who could tell you why the styles In halrdressing change, and. what la more, he could accurately predict the coming halrdrcsslng fashions. He knows why you rolled your hair over a pompadour last year; why some women are parting their liHir this season, and why still more will dress the hair in madonna style next year. He not only predicts the styles but he seta them. - This great French hairdresser, unlike Marcel, has never given his name to a wave nor yet to a pompadour. He de signs whole coiffure effects, leaving It for his assistants to carry out his Ideas. He merely suggests the pictures. This hairdresser, whose business Is so extensive that he maintains what might be called a hair orchard of his own. Is the proprietor of a hop where women go when they want to create a sensation in halrdressing. His suc cess Is based on his ability to design coiffures which suit the faces of his clients, bring out their good points and conceal their defects. Once when asked how an ugly woman should dress her hair, he said: "She should try to conceal rather than to show. The ugly woman has usually one good point, and this Is her forehead. She can. at least show a smooth, fair brow. "It would be a mistake to hide this forehead, so the skillful hairdresser lifts the hair from the brow and ex poses the one good point. The rest he will hide as much as possible." On being pressed to tell how the hair can be made to hide the features with out giving a grotesque appearance to the tace. ho said: "Milling the features, it Is quite easy to lo. The cars are seldom or never prcttv. and the obvious course Is to curl the hair so that it conceals the cars. "There can be a drapery of hair In the shape of a wave coming down, so as to hide the upper part of the ears. Little ringlets will now conceal the lubes should they be big and ugly. "The rheks. if thin, will look fuller if the hair is dressed wide. If the complexion Is poor the hair can be puffed at the sides of the bead and curled at the temples. o as to cast a slight shade over the face. "The Imperfections are thus con cealed to some extent. It Is better to have no Imperfections, but If there are any. then they must be overcome." The Fall hat must be taken along when one goes to the hairdresser. Few hairdressers these days can do the hair effectively unless they can see the hat which Is to be pinned upon the coiffure. The very wide sailors require hair parted on top and much puffed at the sides, with a low bun In the back Xh of the Fall droops on the, sides, suggesting the big aunbonnet or scoop-shaped hat. In fact the extreme hats along these lines seem almost to touch the shoulder. Fluted brims appear, and while there is no bandeau, the brim is sharply tilted on the left side. Crowns are generally high, some running up absolutely straight and others graduated, smaller at the top than where they Join the brim, like a peach basket. What few toques are shown at all have elaborate ly fluted brims and a very heavy look. In the matter of fabrics, the silk covered hat undoubtedly leads, and the old-fashioned ribbed or ottoman silk is greatlv in evidence, which alone adds to the weight of the hat. Beavers are In vogue, the old-fashioned satin covered frames are In again, and yet many felt hats are also shown. In com bination with heavy silk trimmings. The velvet hat seems to have suffered a total eclipse. In trimmings the willow plumes have disappeared and fancy feathers have supplanted them. Ostrich plumes are seen with graceful, moderate curling of the tips, but they are used In com bination with "fancies" as the milli ners call the made feathers, wings, breasts, etc. The osprey aigrette Is the most fashionable trimming of the moment, and the new ones for the ex treme walking hats are so high and thickly massed that they represent an. Investment of $25 each. The wings most In vogue, showing the newest color combinations and the Be Dressed mushrooms require a higher halrdress ing. The ornamental little toques can have a round complete coiffure with plenty of puffs to show around the toque. ' The hat plays a very Important part In the halrdressing scheme. Unless one la made for the other, the result will not be good. Halrdressing Itself depends upon many things besides hairpins. To keep waves in shape different preparations must be used. There Is a story told that Marcel in his first days of fame made himeelf known from one end of Europe to the other by a Job which he performed upon the head of a Russian Empress. She had summoned the French hair dresser to St. Petersburg that he might do her hair for a great court fete. Arriving three days too early and being unable to remain, the Frenchman shrugged his shoulders to signify that It made no matter. "I will do the hair of Tour Majesty to stay three days, three weeks or even three months," he said. His words were no Idle boast. The story goes that the waved hair of the Empress did Indeed last three months. But Maroel found It did not pay to do hair in this fashion, for the reason that it killed business. ."Better to do It so that it stays In one single week only." said one of his assistants. A good shampoo in borax and warm water Is considered essential. The water should be soft, and made still softer with a cup of oatmeal water stirred In. Then a teaspoon of borax is added, and finally a dash of alcohol. If the hair is getting gray the alcohol Is omitted. The curling fluid should differ In va rious cases. Obstinate hair Is made to curl with quince-seed tea. A table spoon of quince seed la boiled in a pint of water and the clear tea drained off. This moistens the hair, which Is put up In curlers. There are heads that curl beautifully with this lotion. Others are better with the glycerine and rosewater treat ment. A teaspoon of glycerine to half a cup of rosewater will maice a heavy, coarse head of hair stay waved pretty well. Orange flower water sprayed upon the front hair before It Is waved, will assist In keeping the hair In good shape. But the dampness must be pret ty well dried out or the hair will scorch and change color. - It Is a mistake to try to wave damp hair. The locks should be dry before the hot irons are applied to them. With the curlers It Is different. Hair should be dampened before It is put up In papers and well moistened with some curling fluid before it Is twined for the night around a curler. Hair that hangs limp requires a little treatment before It will look nice. The MM Jmm mim w Millinery correct size for the new, spreading hats, cost $12 a pair. The -bows are equally large and heavy, requiring from eight to ten yards of ribbon for their correct de velopment. All the new ribbons are soft, with a wonderfully beautiful sheen. Quantities of gilt buckles and those made from cloth of gold are used. In fact the trimmings are all decidedly garish. In colors contrast of some sort Is absolutely essential. The various tones of one color, harmoniously mingled, are not sufficient. Black silk hats have underbrim facings of leather color, bright blue. etc. Leather color, any hade of burnt orange In fact, forms the most approved combination with black. Green seems in great aemanu bronze, peacock, olive, hunter ana tie. Reseda Is not noted very bot' gen- erally. Among the color combinations seen are these: Black ottoman hat with facing of nattier blue silk, fancy wings of great size .In blues, green and gold, with huge buckle of gilt. Dark green beaver, trimmed with leather-colored ribbon and four plumes, one green, one brown, one blue and one leather-hued. Black ottoman silk, faced with gera-nlum-oolored silk, trimmed with geranium-colored plumes and black aigrette, four-Inch buckle of opalescent enamel with gilt filagree work. MART DEAN. to Suit Face limpness must be taken out of the hair and a little temper be put into it. This can be done sometimes by shaking the hair In the air. It can be sprinkled with tepid water and fanned dry. A certain amount of electricity, so the hairdressers tell you, gathers in It, and the hair waves In much better shape. Obstinate hair may be treated with olive oil. which must be poured upon HEAVINESS ' the hair and allowed to remi " minutes. The hair la then combed out and ventilated, after which It is lightly sprayed with hot water to re move the superfluous oil. The Monogram Fad. Girls have gone monogram mad, might be thought by the way ini tials are in evidence. The background maybe silk, satin or wash material; It may, be leather or metal; in some way or another the owner's monogram is Intro duced, and by no means Inconspicuously, cither. Belts and purses. It might be said, are quite Incomplete without Initials. The monogram buckle Is by no means new, for girls adopted it last season. Varia tions of it are among the novelties, how ever, and is chiefly in shape that this is accomplished. Three large script letters, making a long, narrow clasp. Is one new TAILORED HATS FOR EARLY FALL thing. In another pigskin belt the letters. of medium size, frosted gold, are sunK Into the leather, the clasp being invisible. In still another they are formed of nail heads and arranged to go directly across the back. Thus one sees them in all styles that ingenuity can suggest, not all could be called large. Without exception they accomplish the purpose of decoration for which they are intended, and it is per haps fof this reason that script letters are more popular than any other style. The flowing lines and curves are lighter and more graceful in design than old English or plain letters. On purses the letters are governed en tirely by the size of the portmonnaie, but as a rule the Initials are detached rather than being run together. Traveling bags for girls who will move about this Summer are not consid ered equipped until the owner's Initials are put on. For this the letters are as plain as those In the alphabet of a child, and each is separate. They are placed quite near the top, at the middle of the side. Occasionally they are to be seen on the end, but this Is regarded as a freak. Brass letters are ; preferred to those of nickel. The newest key rings that girls may have for themselves or use as gifts end in a single initial letter. The plain cush ions for hammocks or lounging chairs are embellished, in huge Initials, some times of trees. Wash tlouses show ' the monogram done, preferably in small letters, on the left side of the front: hosiery, ha a sin gle letter on the Instep. - IS A CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE IN Society's ENTER the season of calls. And with it, much uncertainty in the minds of the socially Inexperi enced. Who calls upon whom? The problem is one of many small but significant and important subtle ties. First, as to the calling cards, which fashion has altered somewhat this sea son. The small" card Is the thing, for matron, maid or man. The bit of bris tol board Is just large enough to hold the name without crowding, with very slight distinctions as to the shape and size of the oblong, according to the WEAR. age and sex of the owner. The only card which has any size at all Is that of man an'd wife, which necessarily, for typographical reasons, is larger than that of a single person. The card Is quite thin, dead white.wlth old Eng lish type preferred. No script is used this season, and if the purchaser can not afford an old English die, then let her use the block type, never script. Every member of the family has his or her own card. The wife needs prac- Fitting the I F the Merry Widow sailor demanded a massive coiffure, the Fait hats go further and demand not only a massive coiffure but one that is solidly built, banked, so to speak, to withstand the pressure of the heavy fabric In the hats. The woman who has "ratted" her hair and piled It lightly on her head will have no chance against the new hat, but under the soft waves she will literally have to pack a support of pompadour, "rat," transformation, puffs and switches. It is estimated by up-to-date hairdressers that at least one pound of false hair will be needed to support the modern millinery confec tion. Now, this Is a serious matter, not only for the purse, but for the hair- FALL MILLINERY. Decrees as to Calls tlcally two cards, one of her own, bear ing her day at home In the left hand lower corner, and address on the lower right-hand corner. All street numbers are written out until they pass the hundred mark, thus: "Eighteen West Twenty-third street;" but when it passes the one hundred line it ia: "205 West 114th street." Never abbreviate the words "street," "avenue" or "place." The wife also has double cards, car rying her own and her husband's name. "Mr. and Mrs.. James Barton Davis." No initials are used, every name being spelled out. This card the wife uses for paying duty calls for her husband when the- latter cannot flee business and accompany her, as In the case of paying a call to one who has enter tained them at a dinner or dance. The eldest daughter has a card in scribed "Miss Grant," unless the family name is a hyphenated one. when the card runs: "Miss Burden-Grant," but never does she use her Christian name. The younger daughters attach their Christian names, thus: "Miss Emily Grant." The address and day-at-home are used on the daughter's cards, as well as the mother's. Hair to the health of the women who insist upon being in fashion. One season of exces sive false hair and heavy hats will en danger the health of her hair for life. It is most Important first of all that she keeps her scalp in Al condition, and not indulge the foolish custom of piling false hair on her head when she is not wearing a hat. The woman who is In business had best eschew the heavy hat for regular wear, otherwise she must wear masses of false hair all day. Let the enormouB hat, demanding an excessive pompadour and coiffure, be worn only for dress, when the hat is not to be removed, then the differ ence in coiffure will ' not be noticed. This means that some of the false hair can be laid aslfle with the hat when in the house, because when the hat is worn no one can guess at the amount of hair worn beneath it. Ventilate the hair night and morn ing, shaking it away from the scalp to counteract the weight and heat of the false hair. Keep both your own and the false hair very clean. Shampoo the scalp regularly and clean the false hair with gasoline or naphtha, never with water. Select a clear day to clean the false hair, and If possible do it outdoors, or on a porch. Comb and brush the false hair carefully, then roll it round and round, like a corkscrew, keeping the ends of the switch, pompadour or puffs, pointed down, and dip it in gasoline. Do not shake or rub It In the gasoline, but dip it up and down very lightly; then squeeze out all the moisture. Hold it in one hand and with the other beat or smooth (t downward vew carefully with a soft old towel, and hang in a Some Grape "Recipes Grape Catsup This Is a delicious side dish with turkey. Take very ripe gi( ones wild ones preferred, but ao- mestic ones will answer and cook them until the skin and the pulp sepa rate. To five pints of the grapes, add three pounds of sugar, one pint of strong cider vinegar, ground cloves and ground cinnamon to suit individual taste. Boil all together for 15 or 20 minutes, put up in small jars and seal tightly. Infertnen-ted rapr Jule A most appetizing drink, said to be a great tonic. Wash the grapes thoroughly and cook in porcelain kettle. Under no circumstances use an iron pot for this. Cover the grapes with cold water land bring to the boiling point. Strain grapes and Juice in cheese cloth bags, and let the Juice stand until perfectly clear. To each quart of Juice add one quarter of a pound of sugar white. Boil again and skim. While hot put into bottles and seal the cork with wax, so that they will be air-tight. Grape Mou Cook enough grapes, so that when strained they will make one large coffee cup of pure Juice. Stir this into a pint of very heavy cream. Add one tablespoonf ul of lemon luto. The man's social card bears his home or club address, never his busi ness address. A physician or dentist must have two distinct cards, social and professional. It is well to have these cards en graved and ready on your return to town. Send out the cards, indicating your day at home, to all names on your visiting list. It is equally important to have made a calling calendar of your acquaintances, all those who are at home on certain days In one group; This saves confusion in keeping your calling obligations paid. Men should plan on giving up cer tain Sundays in each month to paying their calls, as once the social season opens, they are apt to be engaged night after night. Sunday afternoon ore evening calls are permissible for men and women engaged in profes sions or business. Typical hoine-siay-ing women are expected to call dur ing the season between 3 and 5 o'clock, week days. Women never call upon women In the morning save by special appoint ment, perhaps to discuss a charity movement. Investigate a servant's char acter or some similar matter of mutual Interest. The woman newly arrived in a neigh borhood or towoi waits for old resi dents to call, unless she happens to meet or know an elderly woman of prominence who does not keep up her calling, and who Invites the newcomer to call upon herself. Women returning from the country exchange calls according to their vari ous relations. For instance, if you have been entertained by a friend dur ing the Summer at her country home, you call upon her directly she re turns to town. If you were enter tained by another woman at dinner, say a night or two before you left for vour Summer Jaunt, you still owe her a dinner call, and It must be paid within a few days after her return. If- two women arrive In town at practically the same date, and calling relations are to be resumed, the younger woman calls on the elder, an unmarried woman calls on her married friends, and a young woman who wishes to main tain her position In society is mosc punctilious about calling on the elderly hostesses directly on her return. These first calls are most important. If you wish to be considered diplo matic and smart, appear at the first dav at home named on cards yon re ceive. It indicates that you are back In the .social game. In arranging your calling list, be sure that if you do not call upon a woman within a month or six weeks after her return, she may consider that you desire to drop the -qualntance. In case of Illness in lite, family, the daughters may cnll In the place of the mother, or the mother may take her daughter's card with her own and explain the absence of the invalid. When women meet at the homes of mutual acquaintances, it is the privilege of the elder woman to invite the new comer or the younger woman to call, naming her day at home. In response the younger woman not only calls but before calling she may mail to the woman Introduced her own card, hear ing the day on which she Is at home. When a girl meets a man for the first time, she does not ask him to call. If he makes the request, she grants it. but clearly as a favor, never as if she were anxious to see him again. After meeting him several times and assuring herself that he would be an addition to her circle of acquaintances, she can extend the In vitation thus: "I hope you will call some time, Mr. Grant; our afternoon at home is Tuesday." Or, "We are gen erally home evenings, and will be pleased to have you call." PRUDENCE STANDISH. New Hats draft to dry. If you have puffs, while they are wet roll upon round sticks (long clothespins will do), and when they dry they will retain their curl. But bear in mind that hair musf not be rubbed like cloth nor dipped In water. In either case it will rat up beyond restoration to evenness and smoothness. False hair, however good, fades, and this means that at intervals it must be touched up or dyed to match your own hair. This may be done at a hair-dressing establishment, or if you are expert with dyes. I will he pleased to furnish you with formulas which you can use with safety on false hair. In selecting false hair, do not be hasty. If you must buy the ready made, inexpensive brands, take time to study the market thoroughly, going from shop to shop until you match your hair as perfectly as can be done in cheap makea. The woman with chestnut or reddish brown and bright gold will have little trouble. The hard est color to match is the peculiar drab brown with a glint of gold in it. Very fine hair, like spun silk, must he matched with expensive live hair only. It cannot be matched in the cheap brands, and a switch of this fine hair costs from 1 10 up. Puffs In the same weight are the same price. Chinese hair, cleverly treated and bleached to match American hair, Is the cheapest on the market, and in fact Is Just as healthy as what is known as live hair, from the heads of Euro pean peasant girls. But It weighs very heavily, and therefore Is dangerous to the overheated, overweighted scalty KATHERINE MORTu.W and enough sugar to sweeten. Whip this with cream whipper until very thick, and pour into a mould. Pack in freezer, covering with salt and Jcc, let ting it stand four or five hours. Re plenish the ice If necessary. Turn out on platter to serve and sprinkle nuts over the inverted mold. Grape Butter Separate the pulp and the skins of the grapes. Do not boil the skin. Boll only the pulp and strain through a coarse sieve. Mix with the skins and then measure together. To each quart of grapes add- one pint of sugar, and cook until thick and Jellied. Chops Garnished With Artichoke These chops are cut from the rack an inch thick, the bones removed, and the meat turned and tied with the rouuh pieces. They are then struck with the fiat side of a cleaver to flatten them a little. First broil the chops, spread them with butter and sprinkle them with chop ped parsley, pepper and salt. Arrange them symmetrically on a platter and place on each one an artichoke bottom holding a little good sauce, such as Bear nalse or Hollandalse, or even melted but ter, and a few green peas. Artichoke bottoms come in cans and can be pur chased from a grocer. The French kind ts best
