SUNDAY OREGOXTAX,
SEPTEMBER
13, T908.
The Lure
NO siren ever called men to dan
ger and destruction more effect
ually than do millinery openings
lure women Into bankruptcy of dress
allowances. The enticements of the
Kali openings are many and deceptive.
At first glance, the average shopper
will decide that all styles are extreme
and she must be resigned. If she se
lects her hat on this supposition, she
is making a grave mistake, because
after the exaggerations of the Fall
openings will come a reaction in favor
of more sane styles. The very milliners
who declare that everything will be
very high or very wide or very bizarre
find that there remain yet a few wom
en of plethoric purse who refuse to
be made into millinery spectacles,
wherefore the fashionable designer Is
forced Into the making of sane hats
for sane women.
This much In warning. Do not buy
your Fall hat, which may have to last
you well into the Winter until you
have studied the millinery field thor
oughly. Do not pin your faith to the
milliners statement that only the ex
treme stylos will be worn. Believe me.
good designers already admit that the
extreme styles of the moment will be
revised and modified within a month's
time. The American woman simply
will not be made to look like a frump,
and selecting an extreme style of mil
linery for general wear, not occasions,
stamps the woman as the frump, the
person of hopelessly bad taste.
Naturally th" first question raised at
Fall opening was this:
"What will replace the Merry Widow
sailor?"
And the answer Js: "The English
walking hat, crossed wIJi a man's silk
tile."
Xot a promising outlook. Is it. espe
cially for the middle-aged woman of
conservative tastes? And the oddest
tiling about the situation Is that the
woman who' wore the Merry Widow
sailor is quite sure that she can swing
to the other extreme and look smart
in the severe English hat which the
millinery world Is trying to popularize.
This Knglish hat which paradoxi
cally renewed lis vogue in Paris is
perlians the most trying shape that was
ever Invented by hatmakers. It has
absolutely not one softening or re
deeming feature. It is harsh, unyield
ing in every line. It does not shade
the face, but sets forth every defect
of feature or complexion most relent
lessly. It requires the most perfect
griming and the most correctly tai
lored gowns to accompany It. It makes
the tall woman look absurd and the
thin woman look gaunt, yet oddly
enough It makes the stout woman look
too funny for words. It demands a
Juno figure. Venus features and color
ing. Diana carriage and Psyche hair,
wherefore the astute millinery design
ers offer It to the American woman.
If the American woman were the won
drous creature pictured by versifiers
and illustrators, this compliment might
be taken seriously, but. alas, hats are
worn by average women, not artists'
models!
Therefore I say again and again:
"Study yourself and your style and be
not urged Into buying hats which, how
ever smart, will make you look absurd.
Tell a milliner that you insist upon
having the hat modified and It will be
altered."
The first impression gained at a mil
linery display today suggests enormity
In either breadth or height, and ap
palling weight of frame and trim
ming, which will entail the use of
much false hair. In addition to the
walking hat described above, there are
many large and bizarre shapes. The
Merry Widow shape, probably a trifle
larger in diameter, iias a higher crown
and Is bent in the back. Another large
hat. suggesting the Summer picture
ha?, but trimmed with wintry fabrics.
Is as broad as the Merry Widow, but
Hair Should
THERE3 Is a personage In Paris who
could tell you why the styles In
halrdressing change, and. what la more,
he could accurately predict the coming
halrdrcsslng fashions. He knows why you
rolled your hair over a pompadour last
year; why some women are parting their
liHir this season, and why still more will
dress the hair in madonna style next
year. He not only predicts the styles
but he seta them. -
This great French hairdresser, unlike
Marcel, has never given his name to a
wave nor yet to a pompadour. He de
signs whole coiffure effects, leaving It
for his assistants to carry out his Ideas.
He merely suggests the pictures.
This hairdresser, whose business Is
so extensive that he maintains what
might be called a hair orchard of his
own. Is the proprietor of a hop where
women go when they want to create
a sensation in halrdressing. His suc
cess Is based on his ability to design
coiffures which suit the faces of his
clients, bring out their good points and
conceal their defects. Once when
asked how an ugly woman should dress
her hair, he said:
"She should try to conceal rather
than to show. The ugly woman has
usually one good point, and this Is her
forehead. She can. at least show a
smooth, fair brow.
"It would be a mistake to hide this
forehead, so the skillful hairdresser
lifts the hair from the brow and ex
poses the one good point. The rest he
will hide as much as possible."
On being pressed to tell how the hair
can be made to hide the features with
out giving a grotesque appearance to
the tace. ho said:
"Milling the features, it Is quite easy
to lo. The cars are seldom or never
prcttv. and the obvious course Is to
curl the hair so that it conceals the
cars.
"There can be a drapery of hair In
the shape of a wave coming down, so
as to hide the upper part of the ears.
Little ringlets will now conceal the
lubes should they be big and ugly.
"The rheks. if thin, will look fuller
if the hair is dressed wide. If the
complexion Is poor the hair can be
puffed at the sides of the bead and
curled at the temples. o as to cast
a slight shade over the face.
"The Imperfections are thus con
cealed to some extent. It Is better to
have no Imperfections, but If there are
any. then they must be overcome."
The Fall hat must be taken along
when one goes to the hairdresser. Few
hairdressers these days can do the hair
effectively unless they can see the hat
which Is to be pinned upon the coiffure.
The very wide sailors require hair
parted on top and much puffed at the
sides, with a low bun In the back Xh
of the Fall
droops on the, sides, suggesting the big
aunbonnet or scoop-shaped hat. In fact
the extreme hats along these lines seem
almost to touch the shoulder. Fluted
brims appear, and while there is no
bandeau, the brim is sharply tilted on
the left side. Crowns are generally
high, some running up absolutely
straight and others graduated, smaller
at the top than where they Join the
brim, like a peach basket. What few
toques are shown at all have elaborate
ly fluted brims and a very heavy look.
In the matter of fabrics, the silk
covered hat undoubtedly leads, and the
old-fashioned ribbed or ottoman silk is
greatlv in evidence, which alone adds
to the weight of the hat. Beavers
are In vogue, the old-fashioned satin
covered frames are In again, and yet
many felt hats are also shown. In com
bination with heavy silk trimmings.
The velvet hat seems to have suffered
a total eclipse.
In trimmings the willow plumes have
disappeared and fancy feathers have
supplanted them. Ostrich plumes are
seen with graceful, moderate curling
of the tips, but they are used In com
bination with "fancies" as the milli
ners call the made feathers, wings,
breasts, etc. The osprey aigrette Is
the most fashionable trimming of the
moment, and the new ones for the ex
treme walking hats are so high and
thickly massed that they represent an.
Investment of $25 each.
The wings most In vogue, showing
the newest color combinations and the
Be Dressed
mushrooms require a higher halrdress
ing. The ornamental little toques can
have a round complete coiffure with
plenty of puffs to show around the
toque. '
The hat plays a very Important part
In the halrdressing scheme. Unless one
la made for the other, the result will
not be good.
Halrdressing Itself depends upon
many things besides hairpins. To keep
waves in shape different preparations
must be used.
There Is a story told that Marcel in
his first days of fame made himeelf
known from one end of Europe to the
other by a Job which he performed
upon the head of a Russian Empress.
She had summoned the French hair
dresser to St. Petersburg that he
might do her hair for a great court
fete. Arriving three days too early and
being unable to remain, the Frenchman
shrugged his shoulders to signify that
It made no matter.
"I will do the hair of Tour Majesty
to stay three days, three weeks or even
three months," he said.
His words were no Idle boast. The
story goes that the waved hair of the
Empress did Indeed last three months.
But Maroel found It did not pay to do
hair in this fashion, for the reason that
it killed business.
."Better to do It so that it stays In
one single week only." said one of his
assistants.
A good shampoo in borax and warm
water Is considered essential. The
water should be soft, and made still
softer with a cup of oatmeal water
stirred In. Then a teaspoon of borax
is added, and finally a dash of alcohol.
If the hair is getting gray the alcohol
Is omitted.
The curling fluid should differ In va
rious cases. Obstinate hair Is made to
curl with quince-seed tea. A table
spoon of quince seed la boiled in a pint
of water and the clear tea drained off.
This moistens the hair, which Is put up
In curlers.
There are heads that curl beautifully
with this lotion. Others are better
with the glycerine and rosewater treat
ment. A teaspoon of glycerine to half
a cup of rosewater will maice a heavy,
coarse head of hair stay waved pretty
well.
Orange flower water sprayed upon
the front hair before It Is waved, will
assist In keeping the hair In good
shape. But the dampness must be pret
ty well dried out or the hair will
scorch and change color. -
It Is a mistake to try to wave damp
hair. The locks should be dry before
the hot irons are applied to them. With
the curlers It Is different. Hair should
be dampened before It is put up In
papers and well moistened with some
curling fluid before it Is twined for the
night around a curler.
Hair that hangs limp requires a little
treatment before It will look nice. The
MM
Jmm
mim
w
Millinery
correct size for the new, spreading
hats, cost $12 a pair.
The -bows are equally large and
heavy, requiring from eight to ten
yards of ribbon for their correct de
velopment. All the new ribbons are
soft, with a wonderfully beautiful
sheen. Quantities of gilt buckles and
those made from cloth of gold are used.
In fact the trimmings are all decidedly
garish.
In colors contrast of some sort Is
absolutely essential. The various tones
of one color, harmoniously mingled, are
not sufficient. Black silk hats have
underbrim facings of leather color,
bright blue. etc. Leather color, any
hade of burnt orange In fact, forms
the most approved combination with
black. Green seems in great aemanu
bronze, peacock, olive, hunter ana
tie. Reseda Is not noted very
bot'
gen-
erally.
Among the color combinations seen
are these:
Black ottoman hat with facing of
nattier blue silk, fancy wings of great
size .In blues, green and gold, with
huge buckle of gilt.
Dark green beaver, trimmed with
leather-colored ribbon and four plumes,
one green, one brown, one blue and
one leather-hued.
Black ottoman silk, faced with gera-nlum-oolored
silk, trimmed with geranium-colored
plumes and black aigrette,
four-Inch buckle of opalescent enamel
with gilt filagree work.
MART DEAN.
to Suit Face
limpness must be taken out of the hair
and a little temper be put into it. This
can be done sometimes by shaking the
hair In the air.
It can be sprinkled with tepid water
and fanned dry. A certain amount of
electricity, so the hairdressers tell you,
gathers in It, and the hair waves In
much better shape.
Obstinate hair may be treated with
olive oil. which must be poured upon
HEAVINESS
'
the hair and allowed to remi
" minutes. The hair la then combed
out and ventilated, after which It is
lightly sprayed with hot water to re
move the superfluous oil.
The Monogram Fad.
Girls have gone monogram mad,
might be thought by the way ini
tials are in evidence. The background
maybe silk, satin or wash material; It
may, be leather or metal; in some way or
another the owner's monogram is Intro
duced, and by no means Inconspicuously,
cither.
Belts and purses. It might be said, are
quite Incomplete without Initials. The
monogram buckle Is by no means new,
for girls adopted it last season. Varia
tions of it are among the novelties, how
ever, and is chiefly in shape that this is
accomplished. Three large script letters,
making a long, narrow clasp. Is one new
TAILORED HATS FOR EARLY FALL
thing. In another pigskin belt the letters.
of medium size, frosted gold, are sunK
Into the leather, the clasp being invisible.
In still another they are formed of nail
heads and arranged to go directly across
the back. Thus one sees them in all styles
that ingenuity can suggest, not all could
be called large. Without exception they
accomplish the purpose of decoration for
which they are intended, and it is per
haps fof this reason that script letters
are more popular than any other style.
The flowing lines and curves are lighter
and more graceful in design than old
English or plain letters.
On purses the letters are governed en
tirely by the size of the portmonnaie, but
as a rule the Initials are detached rather
than being run together.
Traveling bags for girls who will
move about this Summer are not consid
ered equipped until the owner's Initials
are put on. For this the letters are as
plain as those In the alphabet of a child,
and each is separate. They are placed
quite near the top, at the middle of the
side. Occasionally they are to be seen
on the end, but this Is regarded as a
freak. Brass letters are ; preferred to
those of nickel.
The newest key rings that girls may
have for themselves or use as gifts end
in a single initial letter. The plain cush
ions for hammocks or lounging chairs
are embellished, in huge Initials, some
times of trees.
Wash tlouses show ' the monogram
done, preferably in small letters, on the
left side of the front: hosiery, ha a sin
gle letter on the Instep. -
IS A CHARACTERISTIC FEATURE IN
Society's
ENTER the season of calls. And
with it, much uncertainty in the
minds of the socially Inexperi
enced. Who calls upon whom?
The problem is one of many small
but significant and important subtle
ties. First, as to the calling cards, which
fashion has altered somewhat this sea
son. The small" card Is the thing, for
matron, maid or man. The bit of bris
tol board Is just large enough to hold
the name without crowding, with very
slight distinctions as to the shape and
size of the oblong, according to the
WEAR.
age and sex of the owner. The only
card which has any size at all Is that
of man an'd wife, which necessarily,
for typographical reasons, is larger
than that of a single person. The card
Is quite thin, dead white.wlth old Eng
lish type preferred. No script is used
this season, and if the purchaser can
not afford an old English die, then
let her use the block type, never script.
Every member of the family has his
or her own card. The wife needs prac-
Fitting the
I
F the Merry Widow sailor demanded
a massive coiffure, the Fait hats go
further and demand not only a
massive coiffure but one that is solidly
built, banked, so to speak, to withstand
the pressure of the heavy fabric In the
hats. The woman who has "ratted" her
hair and piled It lightly on her head
will have no chance against the new
hat, but under the soft waves she will
literally have to pack a support of
pompadour, "rat," transformation, puffs
and switches. It is estimated by up-to-date
hairdressers that at least one
pound of false hair will be needed to
support the modern millinery confec
tion. Now, this Is a serious matter, not
only for the purse, but for the hair-
FALL MILLINERY.
Decrees as to Calls
tlcally two cards, one of her own, bear
ing her day at home In the left
hand lower corner, and address on
the lower right-hand corner. All
street numbers are written out until
they pass the hundred mark, thus:
"Eighteen West Twenty-third street;"
but when it passes the one hundred line
it ia: "205 West 114th street." Never
abbreviate the words "street," "avenue"
or "place."
The wife also has double cards, car
rying her own and her husband's name.
"Mr. and Mrs.. James Barton Davis."
No initials are used, every name being
spelled out. This card the wife uses
for paying duty calls for her husband
when the- latter cannot flee business
and accompany her, as In the case of
paying a call to one who has enter
tained them at a dinner or dance.
The eldest daughter has a card in
scribed "Miss Grant," unless the family
name is a hyphenated one. when the
card runs: "Miss Burden-Grant," but
never does she use her Christian name.
The younger daughters attach their
Christian names, thus: "Miss Emily
Grant." The address and day-at-home
are used on the daughter's cards, as
well as the mother's.
Hair to the
health of the women who insist upon
being in fashion. One season of exces
sive false hair and heavy hats will en
danger the health of her hair for life.
It is most Important first of all that
she keeps her scalp in Al condition,
and not indulge the foolish custom of
piling false hair on her head when she
is not wearing a hat. The woman who
is In business had best eschew the
heavy hat for regular wear, otherwise
she must wear masses of false hair all
day. Let the enormouB hat, demanding
an excessive pompadour and coiffure,
be worn only for dress, when the hat
is not to be removed, then the differ
ence in coiffure will ' not be noticed.
This means that some of the false hair
can be laid aslfle with the hat when in
the house, because when the hat is
worn no one can guess at the amount
of hair worn beneath it.
Ventilate the hair night and morn
ing, shaking it away from the scalp to
counteract the weight and heat of the
false hair. Keep both your own and
the false hair very clean. Shampoo the
scalp regularly and clean the false hair
with gasoline or naphtha, never with
water.
Select a clear day to clean the false
hair, and If possible do it outdoors, or
on a porch. Comb and brush the false
hair carefully, then roll it round and
round, like a corkscrew, keeping the
ends of the switch, pompadour or puffs,
pointed down, and dip it in gasoline.
Do not shake or rub It In the gasoline,
but dip it up and down very lightly;
then squeeze out all the moisture. Hold
it in one hand and with the other beat
or smooth (t downward vew carefully
with a soft old towel, and hang in a
Some Grape "Recipes
Grape Catsup This Is a delicious
side dish with turkey. Take very ripe
gi(
ones wild ones preferred, but ao-
mestic ones will answer and
cook
them until the skin and the pulp sepa
rate. To five pints of the grapes, add
three pounds of sugar, one pint of
strong cider vinegar, ground cloves and
ground cinnamon to suit individual
taste. Boil all together for 15 or 20
minutes, put up in small jars and seal
tightly.
Infertnen-ted rapr Jule A most
appetizing drink, said to be a great
tonic. Wash the grapes thoroughly
and cook in porcelain kettle. Under no
circumstances use an iron pot for this.
Cover the grapes with cold water land
bring to the boiling point. Strain
grapes and Juice in cheese cloth bags,
and let the Juice stand until perfectly
clear. To each quart of Juice add one
quarter of a pound of sugar white.
Boil again and skim. While hot put
into bottles and seal the cork with
wax, so that they will be air-tight.
Grape Mou Cook enough grapes,
so that when strained they will make
one large coffee cup of pure Juice. Stir
this into a pint of very heavy cream.
Add one tablespoonf ul of lemon luto.
The man's social card bears his
home or club address, never his busi
ness address. A physician or dentist
must have two distinct cards, social
and professional.
It is well to have these cards en
graved and ready on your return to
town. Send out the cards, indicating
your day at home, to all names on your
visiting list. It is equally important
to have made a calling calendar of your
acquaintances, all those who are at
home on certain days In one group;
This saves confusion in keeping your
calling obligations paid.
Men should plan on giving up cer
tain Sundays in each month to paying
their calls, as once the social season
opens, they are apt to be engaged
night after night. Sunday afternoon
ore evening calls are permissible for
men and women engaged in profes
sions or business. Typical hoine-siay-ing
women are expected to call dur
ing the season between 3 and 5 o'clock,
week days.
Women never call upon women In
the morning save by special appoint
ment, perhaps to discuss a charity
movement. Investigate a servant's char
acter or some similar matter of mutual
Interest.
The woman newly arrived in a neigh
borhood or towoi waits for old resi
dents to call, unless she happens to
meet or know an elderly woman of
prominence who does not keep up her
calling, and who Invites the newcomer
to call upon herself.
Women returning from the country
exchange calls according to their vari
ous relations. For instance, if you
have been entertained by a friend dur
ing the Summer at her country home,
you call upon her directly she re
turns to town. If you were enter
tained by another woman at dinner,
say a night or two before you left for
vour Summer Jaunt, you still owe her a
dinner call, and It must be paid within
a few days after her return. If- two
women arrive In town at practically
the same date, and calling relations are
to be resumed, the younger woman
calls on the elder, an unmarried woman
calls on her married friends, and a
young woman who wishes to main
tain her position In society is mosc
punctilious about calling on the elderly
hostesses directly on her return.
These first calls are most important.
If you wish to be considered diplo
matic and smart, appear at the first
dav at home named on cards yon re
ceive. It indicates that you are back
In the .social game. In arranging your
calling list, be sure that if you do not
call upon a woman within a month or
six weeks after her return, she may
consider that you desire to drop the -qualntance.
In case of Illness in lite,
family, the daughters may cnll In the
place of the mother, or the mother may
take her daughter's card with her own
and explain the absence of the invalid.
When women meet at the homes of
mutual acquaintances, it is the privilege
of the elder woman to invite the new
comer or the younger woman to call,
naming her day at home. In response
the younger woman not only calls but
before calling she may mail to the
woman Introduced her own card, hear
ing the day on which she Is at home.
When a girl meets a man for the
first time, she does not ask him to
call. If he makes the request, she
grants it. but clearly as a favor, never
as if she were anxious to see him
again. After meeting him several
times and assuring herself that he
would be an addition to her circle of
acquaintances, she can extend the In
vitation thus: "I hope you will call
some time, Mr. Grant; our afternoon
at home is Tuesday." Or, "We are gen
erally home evenings, and will be
pleased to have you call."
PRUDENCE STANDISH.
New Hats
draft to dry. If you have puffs, while
they are wet roll upon round sticks
(long clothespins will do), and when
they dry they will retain their curl.
But bear in mind that hair musf not
be rubbed like cloth nor dipped In
water. In either case it will rat up
beyond restoration to evenness and
smoothness.
False hair, however good, fades, and
this means that at intervals it must
be touched up or dyed to match your
own hair. This may be done at a
hair-dressing establishment, or if you
are expert with dyes. I will he pleased
to furnish you with formulas which
you can use with safety on false hair.
In selecting false hair, do not be
hasty. If you must buy the ready
made, inexpensive brands, take time to
study the market thoroughly, going
from shop to shop until you match
your hair as perfectly as can be done
in cheap makea. The woman with
chestnut or reddish brown and bright
gold will have little trouble. The hard
est color to match is the peculiar drab
brown with a glint of gold in it. Very
fine hair, like spun silk, must he
matched with expensive live hair only.
It cannot be matched in the cheap
brands, and a switch of this fine hair
costs from 1 10 up. Puffs In the same
weight are the same price.
Chinese hair, cleverly treated and
bleached to match American hair, Is
the cheapest on the market, and in fact
Is Just as healthy as what is known
as live hair, from the heads of Euro
pean peasant girls. But It weighs very
heavily, and therefore Is dangerous to
the overheated, overweighted scalty
KATHERINE MORTu.W
and enough sugar to sweeten. Whip
this with cream whipper until very
thick, and pour into a mould. Pack in
freezer, covering with salt and Jcc, let
ting it stand four or five hours. Re
plenish the ice If necessary. Turn out
on platter to serve and sprinkle nuts
over the inverted mold.
Grape Butter Separate the pulp and
the skins of the grapes. Do not boil
the skin. Boll only the pulp and strain
through a coarse sieve. Mix with the
skins and then measure together. To
each quart of grapes add- one pint of
sugar, and cook until thick and Jellied.
Chops Garnished With Artichoke
These chops are cut from the rack an
inch thick, the bones removed, and the
meat turned and tied with the rouuh
pieces. They are then struck with the
fiat side of a cleaver to flatten them a
little. First broil the chops, spread them
with butter and sprinkle them with chop
ped parsley, pepper and salt. Arrange
them symmetrically on a platter and
place on each one an artichoke bottom
holding a little good sauce, such as Bear
nalse or Hollandalse, or even melted but
ter, and a few green peas. Artichoke
bottoms come in cans and can be pur
chased from a grocer. The French kind
ts best